Despite the fact that the modern boiler market is increasing every year, homemade devices For autonomous heating. It is difficult to make such a unit with your own hands, but it is quite possible, and many manage to implement their plans.

Advantages of a solid fuel system

Making homemade heating boilers for a private home involves making calculations, as well as acquiring some skills and knowledge. At the same time, the most important thing in such work is safety, since even factory products periodically become the cause of an explosion or fire. Another problem that may accompany the creation of equipment is pairing homemade design With heating system.

Photo 1 House heating system diagram

The most affordable and safest boilers that you can build on your own are units that run on solid fuel. They are characterized by the following advantages:

• high efficiency;
• complete autonomy of the system;
• easy operation;
• environmental friendliness;
• low costs.

Solid fuel boilers are distinguished by the most high level security.

There are two types of boilers operating on solid raw materials:

• traditional appliances,
• pyrolysis.

The difference between them is that fuel combustion is carried out differently.

Traditional boilers have only one chamber where fuel combustion occurs.

Pyrolysis units have two compartments, in the lower of which fuel combustion occurs, releasing large quantity gas, and in the upper one it is burned, resulting in the formation of more heat. When operating a pyrolysis boiler, you must use only dry wood, and also comply with other requirements for the coolant.

The system of such units is simple and accessible. This work can be done by anyone, provided that certain conditions are met:

• mastery of basic hot welding skills;
• carrying out preliminary calculations and production of drawing;
• preparation of all necessary materials.

Video 1 Making a heating boiler with your own hands

Video 2 Making a regular homemade wood-burning boiler

Video 3 New super modernization homemade boiler"Bubafonya"

Video 4 Homemade “indestructible” electric boiler

The main feature of homemade boilers for heating a private house, the video of which we can watch above, is that their creation does not require any special equipment, and the structure can be built from improvised means:

• sheets of metal, or metal barrel with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm, and you must make sure there are no holes;
• radiators.
• steel and profile pipes.
• flaps.
• fasteners.
• door.

To make boilers, use only new materials without defects, holes, cracks or creases.

In addition, the boiler can be equipped with a circulation pump.

Drawings and instructions

The equipment should be assembled and installed exclusively according to the diagram, always in the order specified in the drawing. In this case, errors that lead to complete inoperability of the product are completely excluded.

Traditional homemade boilers for heating a private house, the drawings of which you can make yourself, are made in the form of 2 compartments, located according to the “matryoshka” principle. The outer compartment will serve as a chamber for fuel combustion, and the inner one will serve as a tank for heating the coolant. At the same time, these compartments should not communicate with each other so that combustion products do not get into the water.

After assembling the base, a homemade boiler for heating a private house, the drawing of which makes it possible to do this quickly and correctly, is installed on permanent place. Then the firebox is equipped with a chimney with dampers to allow the smoke to escape outside and provide heating. In conclusion - giving the stove aesthetics using bricks or decorative elements.

Next, the homemade boiler is connected to the water circuit and the structure is turned on for the first time, which is a test run. If testing is successful, the product can be used for its intended purpose.

Homemade boilers are a good decision for heating a house at any time of the year, because they can become part of the interior, a source of pride for the master and a source of heat.

Owners of private houses who decide to install a solid fuel heating boiler are primarily concerned with 3 parameters - thermal power unit, its price and combustion duration from 1 load. These parameters are interrelated; the greater the power and duration of operation, the higher the cost of the heat generator. The only way to cut costs is to make a boiler long burning do it yourself or entrust the work to masters. We present 2 designs of TT boilers, detailed drawings and the procedure for manufacturing heaters.

How does the combustion duration of solid fuel increase?

The dream of many homeowners is one to which you don’t have to run with firewood every 4-6 hours. Taking advantage of this, manufacturers and sellers of heating equipment apply the prefix “burning duration” to all heat generators, including pellet ones, which operate independently for up to 7 days.

Varieties of classic boilers with an enlarged fuel chamber

The duration of the combustion process is usually justified by using the smoldering mode with a limited air supply. But burning wood and coal in this way is ineffective, and here’s why:

1. Wood and coal boilers reach their efficiency of 70-75% during maximum combustion. When smoldering, the efficiency of the unit decreases to 40-50% (like a conventional potbelly stove).
2. Smoldering firewood produces little heat energy. Who needs a “long-lasting” heat generator that does not fully heat the house?
3. Freshly cut wood of certain species (for example, poplar, willow) and low-calorie fuel cannot be burned normally in smoldering mode.

Factory boiler with an enlarged firebox, where wood burns from top to bottom

In fact, solid fuel boilers long burning - these are those that have an enlarged fuel chamber, only its size affects the duration of the process, all other things being equal. The principle is simple: the more wood in the firebox, the longer it burns and produces heat.

Domestic boilers that can operate for 8-12 hours on wood and up to 24 hours on wood from one start are of the following types:

• classic, with forced submission air;
• operating on the principle of top combustion (such as the Baltic “Stropuva”).

It is quite possible to make these designs of TT boilers at home if you have necessary tools and practice in welding. You can also find drawings of mine boilers using solid fuel and sawdust on the Internet, but such heaters are quite bulky and difficult to manufacture, and therefore deserve a separate topic.

Classic long-burning boiler

In this section we bring to your attention a homemade heating unit wood and coal fired, designed and made by our expert. The master assembled several dozen similar heat generators of varying power to order, constantly improving the design. Short review Watch the video of the TT boiler:

The reliability and efficiency of boilers has already been time-tested at various facilities. Specifications The presented model of the unit is as follows:

• power – 22–24 kW;
• burning time (on average) with wood is 10-12 hours, minimum – 8 hours;
• the same, on coal - up to 1 day;
• Efficiency - 75-77%;
• maximum operating pressure in the heating system – 3 Bar, nominal – 1.5 Bar;
• the amount of water in the boiler tank is 50 l;
• product weight - 150 kg;
• loading opening size (width x height) 360 x 250 mm;
• total volume of the firebox - 112 l, useful volume (for loading fuel) - 83 l;
• firebox depth - 46 cm, optimal length log – 40 cm.

For reference. The master manufactures long-burning boilers of various powers; the line includes units of 16, 24, 36 and 130 kW. Price finished product for 24 kW when ordering from a specialist it is about 450 USD. e. All questions and clarifications related to the design of a solid fuel boiler and its manufacture can be discussed personally with Vitaly, whose contacts are listed on the page.

Device and dimensions A long-burning wood boiler for making with your own hands is shown in the drawing:

The heat generator operates successfully on both wood and coal fuel. The useful capacity of the firebox is calculated up to the lower edge of the loading opening, since it is undesirable to fill the chamber to the top. The boiler operates in the following order:

1. After laying and ignition solid fuel the doors are hermetically sealed.
2. The electronic control unit sets the desired coolant temperature; it is recommended not lower than 50 °C. Then the unit is put into operation by pressing the corresponding button, and the fan starts.
3. When warming up to the set temperature, the fan turns off and air access to the firebox stops. The TT boiler is in standby mode, the wood smolders very weakly and produces virtually no heat.
4. After the temperature in the boiler tank drops, the controller gives a command to start the fan and the combustion process in the furnace resumes.

The controller changes the fan performance at its discretion in order to achieve maximum efficiency combustion. There is no smoldering combustion in this homemade boiler; it is either in a standby state or burns wood and coal in an intensive mode.

The internal structure of the unit is shown in the sectional drawings of the boiler:

IN heating installation implemented classic way combustion of solid fuels with direct heat transfer to the walls of the water jacket and the vault, which is the bottom of the boiler tank. A fire tube heat exchanger is immersed in this tank, removing heat flue gases. The air heated in the channel is supplied to the firebox from below, through the grate. Burning duration is ensured by:

1. Large firebox volume.
2. Completely blocking the access of air to the firebox in standby mode. After the fan is turned off, the gravity damper is activated, closing the air duct and thus preventing the chimney draft from blowing up the coals.

The structure of the rear part and the fire tube heat exchanger is shown in the following drawing:

Tools and materials for manufacturing

The blanks for assembling a long-burning solid fuel boiler are usually made from low-carbon steel grades St 3, 10, 20. The best option– St. 20, heat generators made from it last up to 15 years. Steel containing more carbon (St 35, 45) tends to heat up at high temperatures, and is therefore unsuitable for welding a heat generator.

If you have sufficient experience welding work and the opportunity to buy more expensive metal, the combustion chamber can be made of heat-resistant steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum (for example, 12ХМ, 12Х1МФ). How to independently determine the steel grade with sufficient approximation is described.

The list of blanks from which you will assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands is given in the form of a table:

Advice. It is best to cut blanks using guillotine shears somewhere in a workshop. This way you will save a lot of time manual cutting and deburring.

Additionally you will need the following materials:

• equal angle angle 50 x 4 mm for making grate bars;
• pipe DN50 – for the heat exchanger and heating system connection pipes;
• pipe DN150 – to the chimney pipe;
• profile pipe 60 x 40 mm for the air channel;
• steel strip 20 x 3 mm;
• basalt insulation with a density of 100 kg/m³ and a thickness of 2 cm;
• smooth sheet metal 0.3-0.5 mm with polymer painting;
• ready-made door handles;
• cord, asbestos cardboard.

Among the tools, it is worth noting a welding machine, a grinder and a drill; ANO-21 or MP-3S electrodes are used for welding. The rest is a standard set of measuring devices and tools available in every home.

The Polish-made fan and control unit fits any homemade TT boiler

The automation kit used in the TT boiler, consisting of a control unit, fan and temperature sensor, is made in Poland (do not confuse it with the Chinese one, it looks the same). The marking of the control unit is KG Elektronik SP-05, the fan is DP-02.

Assembling the heating unit

First stage Manufacturing a long-burning boiler involves assembling the firebox body from 4 mm thick metal by tack welding. It all starts from the bottom of the unit, to which the side walls, vault cover and door openings are attached, as shown in the photo:

The bottom sheet is issued in each direction in accordance with the drawing, at the same time it serves as the lower frame of the ash pan door. Inside the chamber, shelves from the corners are fixed by welding, where the grate will rest. The assembled firebox is thoroughly boiled at all joints and checked for leaks.

Second phase– installation of a water jacket made of 3 mm metal. Its thickness at the side walls is 2 cm, so sections of steel strip should be welded to the body of the firebox, extending them by 20 mm. Steel sheathing sheets are attached to them.

Attention! The water jacket begins at the level of the grate and does not wash the ash chamber.

In the middle, so-called clips are placed in a checkerboard pattern. This is a steel circle passed through holes in the wall of the boiler tank and butt welded to the firebox. The second end of the clip is welded around the hole, as shown in the photo:

In the photo on the right you can see where the bottom of the water jacket is, on the left - the boiler tank

A few words about how to make additional clips along the edges of the water jacket of a homemade solid fuel boiler. You need to take a 20 mm strip and insert it from the end between the walls to a depth of 50-100 mm, and then weld it on both sides.

Third stage– installation of flame tubes in top part boiler tank. To do this, holes are cut in the rear and front walls according to the drawing into which pipes are inserted. Their ends are hermetically welded, like all joints of the water jacket.

The flame tubes of the heat exchanger fan out from the chimney pipe

Fourth stage– production of doors and grate. A strip in 2 rows is welded to the inside of the doors, and an asbestos cord is placed between them, this will seal the vestibule. The grate bars are made from corners No. 5, welded with the outer corner down. So they serve as diffusers of air supplied by a fan to the ash pan.

At the fifth stage fittings are cut into the walls of the boiler tank to connect the supply and return pipeline, a chimney pipe and an air duct made of a 60 x 40 mm pipe with a fan mounting flange are installed. The air duct enters the ash chamber in the middle back wall, immediately under the water jacket.

Stage six– welding door hinges and embedded parts 2 cm wide for attaching the decorative lining of a long-burning boiler.

Stage seven, last. The boiler tank is lined on the sides and top with basalt insulation, the latter being secured with a cord. Then all that remains is to screw the sheets of painted metal with self-tapping screws to the embedded parts and install the doors.

Dense basalt fiber insulates the body well and can easily withstand high temperatures. Glass wool should not be used

At the end, a fan is attached to the counter flange of the air duct, and the control unit is installed on top of the boiler. The temperature sensor must be placed under the basalt insulation on the rear wall of the unit. In addition, a number of useful additions can be made to the design of a homemade long-burning boiler, at your request:

• install a water heating circuit for hot water supply into the boiler tank;
• provide an immersion sleeve for installing a thermometer - in case of a power outage when the controller display goes out;
• the same for installing a security group;
• install an electric heating element that heats the coolant after the wood burns out.

A few words about how to make circulation hot water in a solid fuel boiler for the purpose of heating it at economic needs. Need to take 10 m copper tube with a diameter of 8-12 mm and bend a coil out of it in the form of a spiral. The latter is wound inside the boiler tank around the flame pipes, and the ends are brought out from the rear side of the unit. We get a long-burning double-circuit boiler.

Note. The practice of operating these heat generators has shown that the installation of an electric heater is necessary for those homeowners who want to heat their house at a nightly rate. In other cases, the burning time is enough to avoid running to the boiler room in the middle of the night to add more firewood.

It is better to remove the film from painted metal immediately and cover the doors with heat-resistant enamel

The legs of the unit can be attached at any stage by selecting suitable pieces of rolled metal. For details and secrets of assembling a TT boiler, watch the author's video of the master - creator of the heating unit:

Top combustion boiler

In the post-Soviet space, these heat generators are known in two varieties:

1. Baltic units from Stropuva and their derivatives from other manufacturers.
2. Wood-burning stoves of the “Bubafonya” type.

It is not known which of the heaters appeared first, but the Bubafonya stove has gained wide popularity as a heater for cottages, garages and other buildings with low requirements for the aesthetics of the product. The same cannot be said about top combustion boilers, although many for some reason consider them the only possible version solid fuel heat generators prolonged burning. In fact, their only trump card is still the same - a large firebox.

The principle of operation of such boilers is to burn fuel, pressed down by a load, in a direction from top to bottom. Moreover, air is supplied to the combustion zone from above, through a telescopic pipe connected to the load. The operating diagram of the unit is shown in the figure:

Original boiler diagram taken from the site stropuva.ru

During the operation of Stropuva boilers, many shortcomings appeared, as evidenced by reviews from owners on the forums:

1. You cannot add logs to the firebox until the previous one has burned out. Physically this is possible, but then the principle of top combustion will be violated, the flame will engulf all layers of fuel.
2. When working on fresh sawdust and other small debris, fuel residues “hang” on the walls.
3. The efficiency of a TT boiler is not very high because it does not have a heat exchanger. Due to the air heating chamber and the large firebox, there was no room left for the heat exchanger.

The heat generator has no other critical shortcomings, and some things in the homemade version can be corrected according to your own understanding. For example, install a bottom and grates, organizing an ash chamber. You can also get rid of the problem with additional loading if you install an additional door between the loading and ash opening. This idea of ​​upgrading a top combustion boiler belongs to another of our experts, Vladimir Sukhorukov, which he talks about in his video:

Preparation of materials

A round body creates some inconveniences in manufacturing, but you can’t make it square either - the fuel will “hang” in the corners. There is also a problem with assembling the telescopic pipe with a load, so it is better to take this part from the Bubafonya stove. A drawing of a long-burning boiler, comparable in size to the classic version, looks like this:

Before making a boiler, we select materials according to the drawing:

• pipe DN 400 with a wall of 5 mm - for the firebox;
• the same, DN 50 – for air supply and water pipes;
• the same, DN 100 – for the chimney;
• sheet blank 10 mm thick round shape with a diameter of 38 cm;
• strip 40 x 4 mm – for air distributors;
• reinforcement with a diameter of 16-20 mm of a periodic profile - on grates;
• basalt wool 3 cm thick and density 100 kg/m³;
• thin sheet metal with polymer coating.

The choice of water jacket material depends on the method of its installation, because home handyman It is unlikely that there are rollers in stock that can give 3 mm thick metal a cylinder shape. The options are (shown in the diagram below):

1. Scheme No. 1. Take a thin-walled pipe of larger diameter, although it is not easy to find one, and a regular one will make the boiler much heavier.
2. Scheme No. 2. Bend two sheets of metal in 2 places at an angle of 60°, and then weld the two halves together. You will need a sheet press.
3. Scheme No. 2 in a different design. Cook a shirt from 6 sheets - segments on clips.
4. Scheme No. 3. Weld a rectangular box, which will increase the volume of the boiler tank.

Scheme No. 2 can be implemented in two ways - welded from 2 bent halves or 6 flat sheets

You will also need 3 mm sheet metal for the door frame, bottom with lid and air damper.

Manufacturing of heat generator

The work begins with cutting out blanks and openings in the pipe wall according to the dimensions in the drawing. Doors are made from the cut out parts, and awnings and purchased handles are attached to them. The grate shown in the photo is made from the reinforcement:

In general, the algorithm for assembling a top combustion boiler looks like this:

1. Cut a hole in a round blank for the load, insert a pipe into it and weld it.
2. Weld 6 curved strips to the bottom of the load to serve as air distributors.
3. Attach the bottom to the firebox and install grates inside.
4. After cutting a hole in the center of the cover for the air pipe, attach it to the firebox. Before this, you need to put the pipe with the load in place.
5. Weld the chimney pipe.
6. Install the water jacket according to the chosen scheme, seal all joints.
7. Make connections for coolant pipes.
8. Perform insulation and casing of the boiler, install doors.
9. Place a damper on the top of the air pipe.

Six distribution strips are sufficient for air distribution

It is difficult to install automation and pressurization on a long-term top-burning boiler, since you cannot attach a fan to a moving pipe. It is necessary to make a flexible hose, and provide a submersible sleeve for the temperature sensor. It cannot be placed under the insulation, because the combustion zone in this type of heater is constantly moving downward.

It is better, of course, to test the boiler outside

Conclusion

Both designs of long-burning solid fuel boilers, made with your own hands, have the right to life. But making a reliable heating unit is not easy - metal joints need to be welded efficiently and hermetically. You cannot do without the experience and qualifications of a welder. Hence the conclusion: if you see that you cannot overcome self-assembly or you don’t have time for this, contact the experts. This way you will save up to 50% of money compared to buying a factory TT boiler.

Solid fuel boilers work differently than conventional boilers, in which heat comes directly from the fire. Such units are installed in private and country houses, country cottages or production premises. At home, you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, using special diagrams and drawings. In this case, it is necessary to adhere step by step instructions, observing all safety measures.

Do not forget about safety measures with such a boiler

Work principles

In a solid fuel boiler, one fill can be enough for seven hours of combustion. If you don’t add firewood in time, the temperature in the room will begin to drop quickly. This occurs due to the principle of free gas movement: Hot air flows up and then out. A long-burning device can maintain heat in a room for one or two days; the most expensive models last up to seven days.

From the drawings of a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you can understand that the efficiency of its operation lies in the correct structure. In a conventional unit, fuel is located at the bottom, the flame from it rises to the air distributors. The hot oxygen then enters the heating chamber, from which it exits through pipes to the heating radiators. The fan ensures timely air supply to the flame.

In this video you will learn how to make a heating boiler with your own hands:

A solid fuel boiler contains two combustion chambers at once, and the firebox itself is located in the upper part. Firewood or coal is placed in it, and air is supplied using special fans. When it burns out upper layer fuel, new oxygen flows are supplied. This allows the wood to burn very slowly, releasing more heat into the room.

You can purchase several models of such equipment. Budget units include wood boilers- you can’t put anything in them except logs. The remaining devices are heated with coal, sawdust, household waste, and briquettes.

In engineering drawings, do-it-yourself solid fuel boilers are depicted with the location of the main elements:

• the firebox door is on top;
• in the same part the smoke pipe is connected to the chimney;
• An ash pan is built below, through which the boiler is cleaned;
• With the help of a damper, oxygen enters the upper part of the air chamber.

The ash pan of the structure is completely sealed; it does not serve as a blower, since air enters through the top. Both chambers, the ash pan and the chimney are located in a steel boiler body with walls 5-7 mm thick.

Disadvantages and advantages

The homemade unit has large dimensions and complex design. It is better to use it for heating a cottage or house with large rooms. The device will not be economical in small country houses. The advantages of the boiler include:

• autonomy of the heating system;
• long service life and design reliability;
• efficiency and economy;
• high efficiency;
• availability and versatility of fuel;
• environmentally friendly home heating.

This boiler has a number of pros and cons

Do-it-yourself solid fuel boilers also have a number of advantages over the purchased option: homemade unit It will cost less, it can be made more powerful, and the design can also be changed to a more convenient one. Among the disadvantages are:

• the need to constantly clean the device;
• complexity of boiler diagrams and drawings solid fuel with your own hands;
• preliminary equipment of a small boiler room.

It is possible to give a steel sheet a cylinder shape only with the help of rolling machine. But you can replace the steel with an empty propane tank or a durable iron pipe with a suitable diameter. The thickness of the walls of the container must exceed 5 mm.

Manufacturing instructions

First you need to prepare all the diagrams and drawings. After that materials and tools should be selected, which will be needed during work:

• drill and welding machine;
• pliers;
• grinding machine;
• grinder;
• tape measure, level;
• empty cylinder and steel sheets;
• asbestos, steel pipe;
• hinges, handles, corner;
• hood and fiber for the passage of the chimney.

All markings are drawn on the cylinder according to the drawing, and a hole for the ash pan is cut out. A mark is made at the top along which the top will be removed. It needs to be cut with a grinder. In the center you need to make an opening for the chimney to exit. A metal ring is welded onto the lid, and steel is also attached to the internal and external sides balloon.

To assemble such a boiler, do not forget about the right tool

A metal circle is attached to the bottom of the prepared pipe, which will act as an air distributor. Fasteners are cut from metal, welded along the cut line, placing an asbestos cord. You need to weld a handle to the cut top and put the lid on the cylinder. Using a grinder, a pipe is made, fastened to chimney, connect the structure to the body.

A metal door is screwed to the ash pit opening. Measure inner diameter balloon, make markings on steel sheet. It is necessary to cut a circle with a diameter exceeding the body by 5 mm. From metal corner six identical blades are made and attached to a round part - this is the future fan. The amount of firewood laid depends on the size of the heat exchanger. It needs to be welded from steel walls, then the finished element must be inserted into the body.

The entire boiler body is covered with sheet metal for greater strength and reliability. At the top and bottom there are pipes for air inlet and outlet. An opening for the ash pan is cut out in the steel so that it coincides with the hole on the cylinder, and the metal is welded on top. This creates a sealed housing with a round firebox inside. IN finished design need to load fuel. To do this, remove the lid, take out the oxygen supply limiter, and load coal or firewood. The pipe is returned to its place, a burning match is thrown into the firebox. As soon as the fuel starts to ignite, you need to close the lid. The limiter will lower as the wood burns.

To install a coal-fired boiler with your own hands, you need to allocate a special place in the room. An additional cut should be made for the chimney outlet in the roof or wall. You need to place a small brick pedestal under the cylinder. The adjacent walls are sheathed with steel or other heat-resistant material. All joints of the chimney are coated with sealant, it is connected to the pipe on the boiler, and the other end is brought out.

Before installing a coal boiler in your house, need to test it on the street. Since the top is cut off from the cylinder, the operating time of the firebox is reduced from ten to five hours. If you don’t want to add firewood every time, you can connect two cylinders together.

The sealant can be replaced with asbestos cord, gluing it along all joints and seams. It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the system and prevent it from overheating. A shut-off valve is not installed on the pipeline.

The room must be constantly ventilated, because even a small amount carbon monoxide may lead to poor health. Do not keep flammable objects near the structure and protect it from children and pets.

It is advisable to equip a separate utility room for the TT boiler yourself, as it gets a little dirty during operation. It is necessary to monitor its condition, the amount of fuel and oxygen access.

In an effort to save on heating, many home “do-it-yourselfers” make various devices. A DIY boiler, which can often be seen in a private home, is one such useful device.

There are various varieties of it. If you have the skills to work with welding machine and metal, you can significantly save on heating installations.

Varieties

Before directly manufacturing a boiler for heating a house, you need to decide on its configuration and type. Depending on the type of coolant heating, boilers are:

• Gas;
• Wood-burning;
• Coal;
• Electrical;
• Pyrolysis;
• Oily;
• Pellet

As for the configuration, it can be anything:

• Round;
• Rectangular;
• Trapezoidal;
• Conical

How to make a boiler correctly

During the design process, it is necessary to take into account some design features and the principle of its operation. In particular, you need to decide on the purpose of the boiler and what type it will be. The easiest way is to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands.

Much more difficult, almost impossible, is gas, since it is subject to increased safety requirements. You need to get permission to use it and check it. And - if all the characteristics of the device do not meet the required ones, then the relevant authorities will simply prohibit such a boiler from use.

The efficiency of the boiler is influenced by both the design (coolant capacity) and the rate of fuel combustion, constant influx fresh air(oxygen). It should be taken into account that the fuel burns completely and there is a possible outflow of gas, which carries a lot of heat, which must be prevented.

Some features

The boiler configuration, its characteristics, drawings will depend on many factors:

• Material. Regular steel (sheet) will do, but heat-resistant stainless steel or cast iron is best.
• Possibility of good processing of steel, reliable connection of structural parts. Usually, a grinder, a gas cutter and electric welding are used for this.
• Type and characteristics of fuel (liquid or solid). Steel must withstand high temperatures, do not deform, do not melt under their influence. Withstand internal pressure of vapors and gases without ruptures or cracks.
• Correct calculation of the coolant circulation method. Will it be natural (due to correct manipulation of pipe diameters, their slope, tank height, etc.) or forced (using a pump in the circuit).
• Taking into account vapor pressure, using valves to discharge excess gases and condensate (installation of return lines).

It is important in the process of designing a boiler and including it in the heating circuit to carefully think through everything. What and how will work after assembly.

Making a heating boiler with your own hands is not that difficult. All problems usually begin later, when something is not taken into account or done clumsily.

Wood-burning water boiler step by step

To make it we will need:

• Protective gloves;
• Workwear;
• Welding mask;
• Electrodes;
• Welding machine;
• Drill;
• Metal drills;
• Roulette;
• Material for making a boiler (2 barrels or - a metal sheet(thickness – at least 5 mm), doors, dampers, grilles, corners)

The only significant drawback of a wood-burning boiler is low efficiency. But ease of manufacture and maintenance are its significant advantages, making it the most popular.

Manufacturing instructions

When you have everything you need (material and tools), all that remains is to assemble the boiler in the following sequence:

• We take 2 barrels of different diameters, wall thickness of at least 4 mm;
• Use a grinder to cut out holes for the ash pan and water container;
• We install one cylinder of smaller diameter inside the other;
• We weld the lid over them, the ash pan, and the firebox;
• Close the door;
• We weld water pipes, pipe for check valve(pressure release);
• We install a grate inside the oven;
• We make a hole for the chimney;
• Install the pipe;
• We check the tightness.

When there are no leaks in the boiler, it is connected to the heating system and water supply network.

If used oil or antifreeze is used as a coolant, they will be filled in manually. Connections to the water supply system and welding of pipes are not required for this.

After installing the boiler into the heating system with your own hands, you need to check that it is working correctly. A properly assembled device will heat the coolant (water or oil) during the combustion process. If he does this poorly, then you should check for air jams in the heating network, reduce the vapor pressure by releasing them.

In any case, you need to understand the operating principle of this type of boiler so that there are no excesses or problems during its operation.

Photos of do-it-yourself boilers

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Usage natural resources in a house or apartment should be carried out rationally, which will help avoid high utility payments. Therefore, many homeowners decide to acquire a heating system and are thinking about how to make a boiler with their own hands. This type of work does not require special skills; you just need to strictly follow the instructions given below.

To install a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you should take into account many factors, which include the room where the device will be installed, its connection to other communications in the house, the type of fuel used, etc. It is also worth adhering to safety precautions and minimizing costs.

Heating boilers differ according to the following criteria:

• The material from which the boiler is made. The main options are cast iron and steel.
• The method in which the boiler is installed. The equipment can hang on the wall or stand on the floor. Floor standing boilers equipped expansion tank and a circulation pump. They require a separate boiler room. Wall boilers can be double-circuit or single-circuit. Double-circuit ones serve to heat the room and act as a boiler; they are well suited for small private houses. Single-circuit boilers They work only to heat the room or coolant.
• The need to use electricity. If the boiler is forced circulation, then the use of electricity is mandatory.
• Exhaust gases are removed either forcefully (by a fan) or naturally.

Depending on the energy source, boilers are as follows:

• Gas ones are among the most popular, especially those equipped with inflatable burners.
• People have been using solid fuel boilers for quite a long time. Perfect option use - space heating and water heating in homes or factories. This type of boiler does not require electricity. Making a wood-burning boiler with your own hands is easier than all other types.
• Electric boilers have a built-in control program temperature regime. They are used as a backup option for a solid fuel boiler if the wood or coal is burned out. To install them you do not need to take special permission. This is the ideal boiler for small rooms, where gas is not piped.
• Combined - allow you to use several types of fuel for heating at once. It can be gas, diesel or electricity.

Tools

The heating boiler is assembled with your own hands using the following tools and materials:

• Asbestos cord to seal openings.
• Basalt wool.
• For decorative cladding you will need thin sheet steel.
• Flame pipes inside the heat exchanger, pipes for connecting the heating system.
• Sheets of 4 mm structural steel for housing assembly.
• Sheets of steel are needed to make a firebox. The best in this case is alloy steel.
• A pipe for connecting a smoke exhaust pipe.
• Steel strip.
• When designing a homemade solid fuel boiler made of structural steel (without alloying additives), you need to choose grades with low carbon content.
• Door handles.
• Air intake pipe.

It is better to learn from a specialist in advance about how to weld a heating boiler. When welding parts, use better electrodes MR-3S or ANO-21.

Drawings and diagrams

Before manufacturing, you need to carefully study the drawing of the solid fuel boiler.

DIY heating boiler heat exchanger

• Initially, the fuel compartment is designed. A steel strip is welded horizontally to the firebox from below, which should serve as the bottom of the water jacket.
• Pieces of pipe are welded sideways to the walls of the firebox - these will be clips, they will help give rigidity to the structure.
• The outer walls of the heat exchanger with pre-made holes for the clips are welded to the bottom.
• Holes are cut above the firebox into which flame tubes are welded.
• Pipes are welded to the heat exchanger to connect to the circuits of the heating system.

Step-by-step instruction

1. They make a body with side walls and a frame.
2. Corners are welded inside the body, on which the grate is laid.
3. The grate is welded.
4. A firebox with a heat exchanger is welded to the corners on which the grate is located.
5. The doors of the firebox and ash pan are made of steel.
6. The smoke exhaust pipe and the air duct are welded.
7. The air duct is led inside the boiler.
8. Weld the door hinges and several brackets to which the boiler casing will be attached.
9. The heat exchanger is covered basalt wool, which is then tightened with a cord.
10. The insulation will heat up, so its composition should absolutely not contain toxic substances.
11. An automation controller is placed on top of the heat generator, and a fan is attached to the air duct.

If you make heating boilers with your own hands to use them as water heaters, you can equip them with a second circuit.

DIY wood burning boiler

Advantages and disadvantages:

• inexpensive fuel;
• durable;
• do not require the use of electricity;
• low efficiency (except for pyrolysis, i.e., having 2 combustion chambers);
• automatic temperature control is not possible;
• heating of the room takes a relatively long time;
• Coal and wood burn very quickly and require constant monitoring.

Electric boilers

Advantages and disadvantages:

• high level of security because no open fire;
• easy to use and install;
• compact and small in size;
• work silently;
• do not pollute the environment;
• a chimney and a separate boiler room are not needed;
• consume a lot of electricity;
• sometimes separate three-phase wiring is required,
• low efficiency.

Features of design and operation

Before you make and install a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to clearly know its functions and operating principle. The boiler consists of the following parts (Figure 2)

• Boiler “boxes” - the maximum volume of burning elements should be less than the main one, since it is impossible to fill the entire available volume with fuel.
• Grates on which fuel is placed.
• Heat exchanger. It is located above the firebox, but with its lower part it “hugs” it on three sides, like a water jacket.
• Pipes for removing smoke, which are attached to the top of the firebox. Horizontal pipes for supplying heat are located inside the heat exchanger itself.
• The ash pit and fireboxes are hermetically sealed, and air is supplied through a pipe in which a fan and damper are installed.

Advantages and disadvantages

Gas-powered installations have the following advantages:

• convenient to use.
• are as automated as possible.
• have high efficiency.
• reliable and easy to install.
• they don't make noise.
• gas is a fairly affordable fuel.
• Permission is required for installation.
• in the room where the boiler is installed, you need good system ventilation and access to fresh air.
• There is always a risk of fuel leakage, which requires compliance with additional safety regulations.

Boilers using liquid fuel:

• use diesel fuel as fuel.
• Can be installed in rooms where gas is not supplied.
• The hole for smoke exit may be smaller than in other types of boilers.
• no installation permission required.
• high efficiency.
• can be converted to gas.
• price liquid fuel not little.
• A separate boiler room is required for installation.
• Quite noisy compared to gas-fired boilers.
• Diesel fuel heavily pollutes the furnace; impurities can cause corrosion of equipment.