A crack or leak in a sewer line is a real problem that anyone can face. Communication systems as a result natural aging become vulnerable, so the question of how to repair a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe can be asked even by those people who have not yet been affected by this problem.

Moreover, the relevance of this issue is constantly growing. The most optimal solution can be complete replacement damaged areas sewerage to more modern products, but not all homeowners have this opportunity.

Causes of cracks in cast iron sewer pipes

In order to choose the right way to eliminate damage to a sewer pipe, it is important to establish the cause of this situation. First of all, you need to accurately determine the location where the crack has formed in the cast iron sewer pipe. To do this, inspect the joints of the pipes and identify obvious defects in the cast iron pipeline.

The reason for sewerage leakage at the junction of the fittings is the negligent attitude of plumbing workers to the assembly of the system.

Cast iron is a weakly resistant material, so when using it, you should avoid any impulse impacts, including impacts. Although a uniform load distributed throughout the pipe prevents the problem of repairing sewer pipes in the apartment.

Modern cast iron products are more durable, but can withstand only minor impacts. At the same time, a load of any intensity over 10-20 years will still lead to the formation of a crack, which in the best case can simply be covered up, and in the worst case, the pipe will have to be replaced.

Methods for eliminating leaks in the sewer system

The problem of how to eliminate a leak in a cast iron sewer pipe can be solved in several ways, the choice of which depends on the strength of the pipeline, the presence of cracks and chips, and also their size.

Repairing sewer pipes without replacing the damaged section can be done in the following cases:

• The case has minor cracks and holes.
• A leak was found at the pipe junction.

A leak at the junction of sewer pipes involves sealing the cracked joint, for which the following steps are performed:

• The system is temporarily disabled.
• Use a rag or hair dryer to dry the joint.
• Clean the joint from cement and remove the packing from the cracks.
• Using linen plumbing winding, mint the gap between the pipes.
• Prepare a solution of polycement and PVA glue and coat the crack with it.
• Operation sewer system It is recommended to start only after 24 hours.

You can repair a crack at the junction of sewer pipes waterproof glue, epoxy resin, raw rubber, regular plasticine or special silicone sealant. In the latter case, the sewer can be used after 3 hours.

To avoid having to constantly repair cast iron sewer pipes, it is better to replace the part of the system that has become unusable before it is completely destroyed. Otherwise, as a result of failure engineering communications sewage can flood the apartments on the floors below.

If the leak is caused by a small hole, you can use the following materials:

• Rubber bandage. This material is best used for short-term repairs of cast iron pipes, and the bandage must be secured with aluminum or copper wire.
• Stub. This repair item is a wooden wedge. During manufacturing, it is important that the product is not very long, as it can cause a sewer blockage. The finished part is hammered into the leak area and the pipe is wrapped with a strip of gauze. Finally, you can impregnate the material with epoxy resin.
• Gauze. This material, pre-moistened in epoxy resin or cement mortar, is wrapped around the pipeline. Such a winding should have the shape of a cocoon.
• Special clamp. In this way, any leaks in a cast iron sewer pipe are eliminated even if a water pipe bursts. The repair process is as follows: the crack or hole is wrapped with a rubber gasket, covered with a clamp, which is then tightened. Read also: "".

A small crack in a cast iron sewer pipe can be repaired in this way:

• The crack is widened, giving it a V shape.
• The area is degreased and dried well.
• Cover this area with sealant or silicone.

Materials for sealing cast iron pipes

Methods for sealing joints of sewer pipes are described above, especially since they have become known since the advent of cast iron pipes for the sewer system (read: ""). However innovative technologies are constantly being introduced into this area and now experts claim that the most effective way eliminating leaks is the use of phosphoric acid and copper oxide.

As a result of the reaction of these substances, a strong hard filling is formed on the damaged area.

To answer the question of how to repair a crack in cast iron pipe Using this method, you should perform the steps in this order:

• Clean the area where you plan to lay the bookmark using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush.
• Degrease the prepared area with acetone or another solvent.
• Prepare a mixture for sealing by mixing phosphoric acid and copper oxide in a ratio of 2:3.
• Apply the resulting mixture to the damaged area immediately after mixing. The filling hardens very quickly, so you should not leave the prepared mixture even for a short time. The sewerage system after such repairs can be used within a few hours.

The list of ways to eliminate a leak in a cast iron sewer pipe can be completed with one more option. In this case, you should prepare a mixture of powdered ammonia, sulfur and iron filings. All ingredients are mixed and diluted with water until a thick consistency is obtained. This method has been used in practice for a long time, and has proven itself very well.

The formed connections obtained during the repair of damaged areas and in the process of sealing joints of sewer pipes are distinguished by long and flawless operation.

Easier ways to seal a sewer pipe

Quite often, homeowners wonder how to seal a cast-iron sewer pipe if a leak is found at a caulked joint. In this case, you should use silicone sealant. The actions are performed in the following order: the socket of the sewer pipe is cleaned of old putty, debris is removed and the pipe is thoroughly dried. After this, the joint is sealed with sealant.

Sometimes you can observe the following situation: there is no leak in the connection, but unpleasant odors are constantly felt. Perform sealing sewer pipe in this case, you can use cement mortar, which simply covers the joint. If you add a little sodium silicate to the cement, the connection will be stronger and the solution will set faster.

The most in a simple way Repairing a cast iron sewer pipe is the use of adhesive composition"Cold welding". To eliminate a leak in the system in this way, it is necessary to clean the sewer pipe from the existing liquid, dry it and mark with chalk the place where the leak is found. Next, the surface of the pipe is degreased and a small amount of adhesive is applied. A rubber lining is made on top of it. This method may well be used to eliminate leaks in sewers made of plastic pipes. In addition, “Cold Welding” helps solve the problem by repairing a crack in a water pipe.

In addition to all of the above methods, a malfunction at the junction of sewer pipes can be eliminated using tape, which consists of a copper or aluminum layer on a bitumen-rubber base. Sealing a sewer pipe made in this way is strong and durable, and the process itself does not have any difficulties.

In new houses, sewerage often consists of plastic pipes, which are not so difficult to replace, but in houses old building cast iron was used. And in this case, replacing pipes is a very troublesome task, and their service life is just coming to an end due to age. As a result, cracks and water leaks can be observed. However, it is easier to repair a cast iron pipe on site than to replace it, and modern industry offers many suitable means for this.

Before carrying out repairs, it is advisable to find out the cause of the malfunction. First of all, you need to determine the location of the leak. This is done by visual inspection for defects. Particular attention should be paid to the joints.

If the system leaks at the joints, it means that during its installation the specialists made mistakes or simply treated the installation process negligently, without paying due attention to it.

Despite the apparent strength of cast iron, it is actually quite fragile. For example, pipes can sometimes leak due to a pinpoint impact on some part of them.

In addition, even in cast iron pipes, cracks form due to load over time (the time period is approximately 10 - 20 years). However, in some cases the pipe can be repaired, and sometimes there is a need for complete replacement.

What materials are used to seal cracks?

If the pipe can still be repaired, it is necessary to select suitable material. The question of how to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe is quite extensive; the fact is that many options are possible, which are selected depending on the material of the sewer pipes, or visually noticeable defects on them, as well as taking into account the length and diameter.

You can repair a pipe without removing it in 2 cases:

• Only small defects are noticeable on the riser;
• Sewage leaks at the joints.

The most commonly used materials for sealing damaged sewer pipes are: plumbing linen, glue, sealant, gauze, water solution cement and PVA, liquid welding glue, silicone, copper oxide and phosphoric acid. If there is no leak, but only an unpleasant odor, then simple cement is suitable for repair. And this is far from full list something that can be used to cover up or repair the damage that has appeared.

Methods for eliminating cracks in the sewer system

In general, repair of sewer pipes can be divided into two large categories, each of which has its own nuances - repair at joints and elimination of minor damage.

At the junctions

If there are leaks at the joints, before eliminating the damage, it is advisable to turn off the water in the apartment and dry the joints by wiping them with a rag or using a hairdryer. Remove cement and remaining packing from the joints. Next you need to close the resulting gap with a special sanitary flax, and then repair the crack in the cast iron pipe, covering it with a solution of polycement and PVA glue in several layers. After this, the sewer should not be used for a day to allow everything to dry.

Instead of a solution of PVA and polycement, you can also use regular sealant. It will dry in only 3 hours instead of a day. In addition, waterproof glue, raw rubber, epoxy resin and even children's plasticine are suitable as sealing materials. And if small defects and cracks continue to appear on the pipe, then you should think about replacing it. Since soon you will have to carry out repair actions constantly, and then the system will completely fail.

Sealant – great way repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe

When a pipe leaks at a caulked joint, regular silicone sealant will come in handy. In this case, the pipe is cleaned of old putty and debris, then dried. If there is no leak, but only an unpleasant odor, then simple cement can help out. To speed up its hardening, a little liquid glass, otherwise called sodium silicate, is added to the solution.

Another fairly simple way is to use cold welding glue. Before using it, the sealing area is cleaned, and the surface of the pipe is cleaned and degreased, then a patch of this glue is applied to the damaged area. After this, rubber seals are applied. This method is good not only for cast iron, but also for plastic pipes.

In addition, pipeline joints can be reliably sealed using aluminum or copper tape on a bitumen-rubber base. This option is quite simple and effective; it will allow the sewer system to serve for a long time.

Elimination of longitudinal cracks and small chips

In cases where the leak occurs due to minor damage, you can use the following to seal:

• rubber bandage, but only as a temporary option. The damaged area is wrapped with this bandage, and then the bandage is fixed with copper or aluminum wire, applying it in tight turns;
• a plug, which is a small wooden wedge. It is inserted into the resulting hole. The size of the piece of wood should be small and fit tightly into the gap so as not to further clog the drain. A wedge is driven into the leak site and the pipeline is wrapped with gauze impregnated with epoxy resin.
• ordinary gauze, it is impregnated with epoxy resin or cement solution, and then the leak site is wrapped in several layers, so that a small cocoon is obtained;
• special clamp. When using it, the pipe is first wrapped with a rubber gasket, then the whole thing is covered with a clamp, which is tightened. This method is suitable for eliminating almost any leaks.

Small cracks can also be repaired as follows: first, you need to expand the damaged area so that you get a V-shaped depression, and then cover the cracked area with sealant or silicone.

All the methods described above have been and are being used for a long time, but modern technologies may also offer several new products. For example, now it is most reliable to remove small leaks without dismantling using phosphoric acid or copper oxide. These reagents harden after a short period of time, and a strong crust forms at the site of damage. If you decide to use this particular method, you must perform the following steps:

• clean with sandpaper or wire brush location of the leak;
• degrease it with acetone or another solvent;
• prepare a mixture for sealing, most often phosphoric acid and copper oxide are mixed in a ratio of 2:3;
• Now all that remains is to cover up the leaking places.

This mixture hardens quite quickly, and the sewer can be used in just a few hours.

Another option is to use powdered ammonia mixed with sulfur and iron filings for sealing. All this is diluted with water until a thick mass is formed, and then the damage is covered with the resulting mixture. This connection is quite durable.

Leak prevention

In order for sewer pipes to last as long as possible, it is necessary to give preference to products made from high-quality material, and perhaps even pay attention to the name and country of the manufacturer. The same applies to various components. The main selection criterion in this case is high reliability and long service life.

The selected pipes must be installed carefully, following all known rules. Even if you entrust this to specialists, problems may still arise in the future due to poor installation. Therefore, the installation process should be given special attention.

Leaks caused by minor damage or careless installation of joints can be eliminated quite simply. However, a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe is still a rather unpleasant phenomenon. But if a sewer pipe bursts, this may entail big problems, right up to a local flood with a bunch of damaged things and angry neighbors downstairs, whose brand new renovations were damaged as a result. Therefore, it is important to know how to handle cast iron sewer pipes in order to operate them without the need for repairs for as long as possible. After all, it is always easier to prevent a problem than to solve it later.

To do this, it is advisable to sometimes check the condition of the sewage system in the house, carefully inspect the pipes for external damage, and make sure that there are no puddles somewhere under them. It is better to repair detected small external damage immediately, without waiting for the pipe to start leaking in these places, and even more so, without waiting for the size of the defect to increase.

In addition, it is advisable to clean sewer pipes from time to time, since fat, dirt and small particles accumulate there in large quantities, which can mechanically damage the pipe or accelerate the process of rust formation, and therefore the occurrence of damage. By the way, it is better not to pour particularly fatty and thick dishes, such as soup with a lot of ingredients, down the drain. You can only drain the liquid; in this case, the grounds should be collected and thrown away separately. The same applies to tea leaves and other liquids with impurities of solid or not very solid particles.

In the case where the sewage system is laid outdoors, and even above the ground freezing level, it is necessary to use insulation; otherwise, in the temperate Russian climate, such a system risks surviving only until the first snow falls or until the first frost occurs.

It is also important to remember that cast iron pipes have a limited service life. And since they are most often found in houses of old construction, their owners quite often have to pay attention to repairs, eliminating cracks, sealing joints, eliminating blockages and dealing with unpleasant odors. If this starts to take too much time, then it's time to completely replace the sewer system.

Leaking of the heating system is not uncommon, and in most cases it happens unexpectedly, except for test runs of the equipment at the beginning heating season. It is not always possible to determine reliably what caused the leak, and this is not always important, since restoring the tightness of the heating circuit is in the foreground in such situations. As a rule, major repairs are postponed until the warm season, and when a leak is detected, they choose what to temporarily cover up the leak in the heating pipe.

Factors characterizing system depressurization

The heating system consists of the following main elements:

• heating boiler;
• pipeline;
• radiators;
• control and measuring and shut-off valves.

All of the listed elements are mounted in a heating circuit, the tightness of which depends on the integrity of the constituent elements and their connections.

The choice of method to restore the integrity of the heating system depends on the following factors:

• accessibility of the damage site;
• leak status (fistula, loss of tightness of a threaded connection, etc.);
• material of manufacture of the damaged element;
• availability of the ability to disable the system.

Based on the totality of the above circumstances, a method is selected to most effectively seal the leak in the heating pipe in the current situation.

Preparatory work

When spot repairing a heating system, it is first necessary to determine the specific location of the coolant leak. If the pipeline is laid hidden (in the wall, in the floor), lined decorative elements or equipped with thermal insulation, the task becomes more complicated.

Important! In a situation where a pipe or joint embedded in a wall has leaked, it is advisable to consider the possibility of installing a new section of the pipeline, since it makes no sense to spoil the finish of the room to repair a pipe with a high degree of wear.

In the expected emergency section, the circuits are dismantled decorative finishing and thermal insulation, the location of the leak is found, after which the nature and extent of the damage, as well as its accessibility to repair, are assessed.

Spot repairs of the heating system can be of three types:

• mechanical - using crimping and tightening devices, electric welding and other means not based on the use of sealing solutions;
• chemical - using various kinds sealing compounds that harden as a result chemical reactions or drying out;
• combined - sealing the circuit using a combination of mechanical and chemical methods.

If a mechanical repair method is chosen and the damage is not significant (needle fistula or drip leak), the heating system can be left in operating mode before starting work to eliminate the leak. If the damage is more serious, then the heating must be turned off:

• the autonomous boiler is turned off, the coolant is drained;
• in system central heating it is necessary to close the valve of the common riser and hang a warning sign on it, and then also drain the water from the system.

The technology for treating the base before sealing the circuit depends on the material of the pipeline, the status of the leak and the type of repair, but, in any case, the final result of the work is largely determined by the quality of surface preparation.

Methods for performing repairs based on the location of the leak

In most cases, it is possible to fix a heating system leak on your own, without the involvement of professionals. To do this, we will consider methods for performing spot repairs of the circuit for the most common damage.

Elimination of a fistula on a straight section of a steel pipeline using mechanical methods

On a horizontal or vertical area, solid steel pipe Due to a number of factors (wear, corrosion, material defects), a leak often occurs, which can be eliminated independently and without significant costs.

If a fistula with a jet cross-section approximately the size of a match has formed in a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 50 mm, then it can be eliminated even without special preparation of the base, but the thickness of the pipeline wall must be at least 3 mm. The area around the damage is cleaned of rust and scale with a file or grinder, after which a self-drilling screw with a sealing rubberized washer is screwed into the hole with a drill. The length of the screw is selected so that it protrudes minimally at the exit from the hole inside the pipe and in no case rests against the opposite wall.

Important! When using an electric drill, the coolant in the pipe should not be under pressure so that a stream of water does not hit the tool and cause electrical injury or damage to the drill. For safety reasons, it is better to use a drill with a built-in 12 V battery, wrapped in a plastic bag with a slot for the chuck.

It is also better to know in advance how to repair a hole in a heating pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more and a larger fistula cross-section, since the consequences of damage to such a heating pipe are more serious, and the likelihood of an accident is no less.

The hole in the fistula is driven through with a drill of a slightly larger diameter in such a way that a thread can then be cut into it for the bolt. The wall thickness must also be sufficient for threading. The table shows the correspondence of drills and threads (taps).

Diameters of holes for metric thread with normal pitch

After cutting the thread, a bolt with a washer and a rubber sealing gasket is screwed into the hole. The length of the bolt is selected depending on the thickness of the wall - after screwing in, the part should not block the lumen of the pipe or rest against the opposite wall.

It is possible to eliminate a leak in a steel heating pipe without threaded elements - using caulking and electric welding. The hole is drilled out to the nearest diameter, after which a steel cone (chop) of a suitable size is hammered into it with a hammer. The remaining part of the chop outside is ground off with a grinder to such an extent that a small protruding cap remains, which is then scalded with electric welding. This method of eliminating leaks is reliable and durable, but it should be remembered that to weld galvanized pipes, you need to use rutile-coated electrodes, and the thickness of the pipe walls must be sufficient (3 mm).

A single hole in the wall of a steel pipe can also be plugged using a narrow crimp clamp.

Such a clamp can be made independently from strip steel, but there is a large assortment of these devices on sale, the aesthetics of which are much higher. The clamp is selected according to the diameter of the pipe and, if it does not come with a gasket, such a sealing strip is cut out of rubber or paronite with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The device is put on the pipe, the gasket is aligned with the fistula, and the clamp is pressed with the necessary force. This method elimination of leaks is also applicable to pipelines made of copper or polymer materials.

In a situation where several fistulas have formed in a small area, the above repair methods cannot be used - the pipe section is weakened, and repairing leaks one by one is not effective and even risks destroying the entire fragment of the circuit. A narrow clamp, like a chop, cannot be installed on an oblong-shaped damage (crack).

If in this moment If it is not possible to replace the entire damaged section, then to restore the tightness of the heating pipeline, clips are used - wide clamps, the principle of operation of which is the same as that of narrow devices.

Repair of a pipeline on a straight section or a bend using chemical and combined methods

To eliminate leaks in the heating pipeline, different kinds heat-resistant one- and two-component sealants used on both steel and polymer pipes. Most widespread obtained high-temperature silicone-based compounds characterized by a high degree of adhesion, ductility and the ability to withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. These sealing mixtures differ from other types of silicone adhesives by having a reddish or brown tint.

Each of these compositions has its own instructions for use, set out on the packaging and providing for use in sealing joints and interfaces. But, if reinforcement is used, they can also be used on a plane, that is, on the surface of a pipeline, both steel and polymer.

Before starting work, the coolant is drained from the heating system, and the area around the damage is cleared of paint, degreased and dried.

Important! The adhesion of silicone sealants to smooth surfaces is stronger than to rough ones, so you should not treat the pipe section being repaired with abrasives.

The silicone sealing coating is reinforced to increase the tensile strength of the shell and its resistance to mechanical damage. Serpyanka, a fiberglass masking tape, is used as reinforcement.

The sealant is applied to the prepared surface of the heating pipe in a continuous layer 2-3 mm thick, on top of which a serpyanka is screwed - end-to-end in turns. A layer of sealant is again applied on top of the first layer of mesh, and then serpyanka again, but with 5 mm overlaps of turns over each other. In total, there should be 4 or 5 layers of mesh with layers of silicone. It is necessary that the turns fit tightly, without folds with voids, like bandaging - with the tape turning around the axis at the end of each layer to return in the opposite direction. Such bandaging should cover sections of the pipeline 10-20 cm on both sides of the damage. The last layer on the pipe is made of sealant, which is smoothed with a hand dipped in soapy water. The end of the serpyanka is temporarily attached to the pipe with a nylon clamp away from the area being repaired - after the composition has cured, it is cut off flush with the surface of the sealant.

Depending on the type of glue and the total thickness of the sealing layer, curing, which occurs from contact of the composition with air moisture, requires from several hours to a day.

Using the same technology, using serpyanka reinforcement, heating systems are repaired using heat-resistant rubber sealants - also durable but elastic compounds that are successfully used both in everyday life and in production.

Please note that silicone and rubber sealants are commercially available for use in automotive engines. If the performance characteristics of such compositions meet the requirements heating system, then an autosealant designed for use in engine repairs internal combustion, even more so for sealing heating pipes in everyday life.

To eliminate pipe leaks in a household heating system, ready-made repair kits are often used, which include everything necessary for sealing. An example of such means is the Siloplast repair kit, which is even equipped with protective rubber gloves. The main element for eliminating leaks in the kit is a tape with a special impregnation, which, upon contact with water (wetting during installation), hardens and forms a strong, hermetic shell on the pipe, which does not need to be covered with anything else.

The method of using Siloplast is described in detail on the packaging, and the success of the repair depends on compliance with this technology, as well as the quality of preparation of the base. The repair kit can be used not only on straight pipes, but also on curved pipe sections, as well as over threaded connections whose sealing material has lost its properties.

The material is produced for various fields production, therefore, when purchasing, you need to choose exactly the required type of repair kit, one of them is Siloplast “For Home”.

To restore the tightness of the heating system, special two-component compositions called “cold welding” are also used - mixtures based on epoxy resins with the addition of metal filler and additives responsible for the specific characteristics of the adhesive under certain conditions.

The resin in the composition ensures the plasticity of the material after curing, and the metal-containing component increases the strength and hardness of the binder. Cold welding is performed in liquid and plastic form. Specifications, including operating temperature and method of application, are indicated on the packaging. All that remains is to choose the right type of sealant that matches the operating conditions and the material used to make the thermal circuit.

If the heating pipe does not leak significantly, then the question is how to cover the circuit on a straight section or joint threaded connection, can be solved with improvised means, for example, using “Minutka” glue or identical in action. To do this, the surface or crack to be repaired must be cleaned of paint, degreased and dried. Then the prepared area is wrapped with a layer of serpyanka end-to-end and ordinary baking soda is rubbed into the mesh cells (the first turn is first pinned to the pipe with glue). Then another layer of overlapping mesh turns is applied to the pipe, and the cells are again filled with soda. After laying the third layer of serpyanka with soda, the last turn of the tape is secured with a nylon clamp, and glue from a tube is applied to the resulting coupling, starting from the site of damage. The glue is instantly absorbed into the soda and, reacting with it, also instantly hardens, forming a durable shell. It is necessary to apply glue to the entire surface of the winding, the tubes are squeezed out one by one as they are emptied, the number of tubes depends on the area of ​​the area being repaired.

If the damage to the pipe is a crack, then it is also filled with soda and glue is dripped on top, instantly sealing the damage. A serpyanka bandage is applied over the crack in the manner described above.

The method is applicable for repairing both steel and polymer pipes.

There is another way to seal coolant leaks on a straight or oval section of a steel heating pipeline, as well as over a threaded connection - using a reinforced cement mortar bandage. To do this, the system is depressurized so that water does not leak out of the damaged area, and the repaired area is cleaned of paint and rust. Then an aqueous solution with the consistency of sour cream is prepared from cement grade 400 or 500, and the problematic section of the pipeline is bandaged layer by layer with a strip of canvas fabric that allows liquids to pass through it well (you can use a serpyanka or an ordinary medical bandage). Bandaging is done by coating each layer cement mortar. As a result, a coupling with a wall thickness of at least 2 cm should form on the pipe, which is covered with last layer the same solution.

The effectiveness of the method can be increased if, to mix the cement, you use not water, but PVA glue, but not its paste type, but an emulsion one. In addition, instead of cement you can use coating waterproofing cement based

Ceresit CR 65, designed specifically for the installation of waterproof coatings.

Important! The use of a cement bandage to seal a heating pipeline is a temporary measure, since cement is not plastic and does not easily resist the tensile forces that will affect it during thermal expansion of the pipes, so even reinforcement with sickle tape will not save you from the occurrence of microcracks in the repair casing over time.

Eliminating leaks at threaded connections

If the coolant leaks at the junction of pipe sections made with a threaded method, or at the connection points to the heating radiator, shut-off valves, then the optimal action would be to dismantle the threaded connection to diagnose the cause of the depressurization. This refers to the situation when, when installing the heating system, fittings designed for adjustment - adjustment with a seal - were not used. Dismantling the threaded connection, which is carried out after draining the coolant from the system, will show the cause of the leak - wear of the thread or loss of the sealant’s qualities.

In the first case, the thread profile is refreshed by passing a die (die) through it and cutting an additional 2-3 turns. If the thread is significantly damaged, then you will have to insert a new piece of the pipeline using welding or, again, a threaded connection (squeeze).

If the condition of the thread is satisfactory, the sealing material is replaced. To do this, the threads are cleaned of the remnants of the old seal and a new one is applied to it. To ensure reliable sealing, it is recommended to use a combination of a fiber seal (flax strand) and one of the types of sealant for threaded connections, including anaerobic ones, designed for independent use.

This procedure can be simplified by using a special impregnated universal sealing thread. The thread material can be natural or synthetic, the impregnation is most often silicone. This thread is attractive due to its ease of use, versatility and affordable price, which allows you to carry out repairs yourself and without significant costs.

FUM tape is widely used as a thread sealant - synthetic material, thanks to the fluorine content, resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

FUM tape is produced in three types:

• FUM-1 – with vaseline-based lubricant, for use in industrial pipelines, including those with aggressive environments;
• FUM-2 – does not contain lubricant, suitable for environments with oxidizing agents;
• FUM-3 – for pipelines with a non-aggressive environment.

All three types of FUM tape are suitable for use in domestic heating systems and are quite effective in correct application on the thread.

In cases where the intensity of the leak is not significant, dismantling the threaded connection can be postponed until the end of the heating season, and the tightness of the connection can be restored by placing a reinforced bandage over the joint using one of the sealing compounds described above - silicone, rubber, cold welding.

Conclusion

When repairing a heating system leak, you should objectively evaluate the effectiveness and longevity potential of the repairs being made. Most of the products offered by manufacturers to eliminate leaks are designed to temporarily eliminate emergency situation before taking radical measures, including production overhaul heating systems. Therefore, after diagnosing the causes of the leak and choosing how to cover up the damage, it is necessary to consult with professionals, without relying only on marketing advice in the store, sometimes provided by employees without experience in repair and construction activities. This will allow you to obtain an objective assessment of the situation and correctly plan repairs at the end of the heating season in order to avoid aggravation of the situation during the cold season.

Sewage systems made of cast iron pipes are installed in most multi-storey buildings Soviet built. Maintenance Moreover, rarely does anyone carry out planned repairs of these systems. Therefore, the risk that pipes will become unusable and may leak increases every year.

Many residents do not wait for an emergency and replace the cast iron pipeline with one. Those who do not have such an opportunity use the old one and hope for the best. If the pipe leaks at the junction or a crack appears on it, do not rush to panic. You can fix this kind of problem yourself, without replacing the entire pipeline or part of it.

Repair of cast iron sewer pipe

A small leak can be repaired using special clamps or repair couplings. For this it is necessary in any hardware store buy a clamp of a suitable diameter, put it on the pipe in the right place and tighten it. As an alternative to a purchased clamp, a piece of rubber is quite suitable; you need to wrap it around the leak and tighten it with wire. Fixing the breakdown using this method takes a few minutes.

The next method, using cement, takes more time and the pipeline can be used only after the cement has hardened (about a day). So, you need to stock up on cement and bandages. The bandage is cut into equal parts, about 40 - 50 cm long, and the cement is diluted in water or liquid glass.

Next, the bandage is dipped into the prepared solution and after it is well soaked, it is wrapped around the damaged area and sprinkled with dry cement. This work is repeated until a small “cocoon” is formed on the pipe, which can be processed on top liquid glass(silicate glue). Also, instead of cement you can take epoxy resin, all stages of work will be the same.

A small crack can also be sealed using ready-made silicone-based sealants. To do this, you need to slightly expand the damage, giving it a ∨-shaped shape. Then clean, degrease and dry. After this, pour sealant into the crack, wait for it to dry, and you can use the sewer.

You can prepare a high-quality sealant yourself by mixing 3 parts copper oxide with two parts phosphoric acid. This mixture must be applied to a grease-free surface immediately after preparation, as it hardens very quickly.

You can also use a special mixture – “cold welding” – as a patch. Stages of work: cleaning and degreasing the area to be repaired, applying a “patch” and a rubber seal over it.

How to seal a cast iron pipe joint

If the sewer pipe has leaked at the junction, then this situation can be corrected as follows:

1. Caulk - remove any remaining cement and tow.
2. Dry with a hair dryer and remove any dirt.
3. Thickly stuff linen plumbing tape into the gap formed.
4. Apply an aqueous solution, polycement and PVA glue to the joint several times.
5. After 24 hours, the sewer can be used.

If you use silicone sealant instead of flax and mortar, the system can be used much earlier.

On a note!

You should not seal cracks and holes with improvised means: plasticine, chewing gum, glue, etc. All this will eliminate the problem, but for a short time. Also, do not hammer choppers into the holes, since cast iron is a fragile material and this can lead to even greater damage.

In conclusion, I would like to note that if a crack appears in one place of the pipe, it is possible that soon the same thing will happen in another. And all these patches, no matter how high-quality they may seem, are a temporary fix to the problem. Therefore, it is better to immediately get new ones, contacting specialists or doing it yourself. Otherwise, the next leak can lead not only to minor repairs of cast iron pipes, but also to large-scale flooding and subsequent repairs to the neighbor’s apartment.

Video: How to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe

Need repairs or has a cast iron pipe burst? This article details how to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe!

The use of cast iron sewer pipes is now almost complete, but in many apartments or houses they are still reaching their service life. Durability, reliability and lack of noise still attract users; cast iron risers are installed almost everywhere in old apartment buildings. Replacing them is difficult, since this requires completely replacing the entire riser. It is easier to solve local problems that may arise during operation. Let's look at how to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe and how it is usually done.

Causes of cracks

There are two main causes of cracks or fistulas in cast iron pipes:

• negligence of installers;
• fragility of cast iron as a material.

Poor quality sealing of sewer joints often causes leaks. They occur both on old connections and on transitions from cast iron to plastic pipes, if standard adapters were not used. Cement mortar was used to seal the flares, and errors in mixing proportions could cause leaks in weak areas over time. IN similar situations Cast iron sewer pipes are the easiest to repair.

If a crack or hole has formed in the drain, the cause can only be mechanical impact - impact, damage caused by unqualified installation or repair work. Many users do some of the work themselves.

Absence vocational training and a poor understanding of the properties of cast iron do not allow them to repair a cast iron sewer pipe properly. Careless actions, using ordinary hammers instead of rubber mallets, falling pipes - from all these influences, cast iron pipes burst and fail. Often cracks go unnoticed, or careless plumbers simply install a product that is obviously defective in the hope that everything will work out somehow. Sewage is a non-pressure system, so cracked elements are not detected immediately, sometimes after several years of operation.

There's another one possible reason hole formation - corrosion. A low-quality casting with cavities or shells can rust through, especially if the drainage system has been in operation for a very long time.

Ways to solve the problem

The most correct answer to the question - how to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe - is to replace the section that has failed. However, this option is not always available, especially for residents of the lower floors. In most cases, you will have to sort through the entire riser, or perform partial replacement with cutting and removal of the problem area. For the entire duration of the work, it is impossible to use sewerage and water supply, which is extremely inconvenient for all neighbors and very difficult to organize. Therefore, they usually prefer to temporarily plug the hole with something until it is possible to more quality repairs. If the work is done carefully and efficiently, the drainage system can last for many years without increasing the problem.

Let's look at how to repair a cast iron sewer pipe without replacing the problem area:

1. The simplest, but quite effective way- installation of a rubber pad pressed to the crack with a clamp. A patch is cut out of a piece of soft rubber, which is applied to the crack and pressed with a standard or homemade clamp. It is recommended to use materials that are not susceptible to corrosion - nylon or copper.
2. Installing a homemade bandage from a bandage soaked in cement mortar. This method is more complicated and requires stopping the sewer system for about a day, so it is used much less frequently. Most often it is used when it is impossible to get by with more simple methods. When creating a solution, you can replace water with glue (liquid glass), and use old tights instead of a bandage.
3. Using a repair coupling. This is essentially a modified way to repair a pipe using a clamp and rubber. The coupling consists of two halves that completely encircle specific area element and tightened with bolts. All that remains is to install it on the resulting gap rubber gasket and press it with a coupling to completely seal the hole.

Cold welding

You can also mention one of the temporary (although often permanent) options - cold welding for cast iron sewer pipes. This is a two-component (most often) composition, mixed immediately before application. Before you start caulking cold welding crack, the surface must be cleaned of rust and other deposits, degreased and dried. There are two types of such glue - liquid and thick mass, similar to plasticine. The first type is mixed with a hardener, and the second, before starting to seal the gap, is intensively kneaded to achieve softness and elasticity of the material.

There can be quite a few ways to repair a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe. The basic principle of such repairs is to apply a quickly hardening compound to the problem area, fill the crack and apply a fixing bandage or clamp over it. New products are constantly appearing on sale that allow you to solve the problem without calling plumbers and performing labor-intensive and expensive repair work.

What materials can be used

To solve the issue of how to plug a sewer pipe, the following materials can be used:

• rubber patch with clamp;
• cement mortar;
• cold welding.

These materials and methods of performing the work have already been discussed above. There are other technologies for which appropriate materials are suitable:

• self-adhesive tape. There are plastic or metallized types with a sticky layer, which are very easy to use and the results are very effective. The only limitation is the difficulty (or impossibility) of winding some pipes with tape due to the tight connection to the wall surface;
• silicone sealants. These are materials that are in a semi-liquid state, but harden in air and become rubber-like. They do not react at all to moisture, fill the entire crack cavity, and have a long service life;
• To seal the sockets, use conventional linen sanitary ware impregnated with PVA glue and cement. Before sealing a hole in a sewer pipe, it is necessary to clean it of old filler or deposits;
• a mixture of copper oxide and phosphoric acid in a ratio of 3:2. This compound is used to fill large holes or potholes. The solution hardens quickly, so you first need to prepare the area for application and only then start mixing the components.

Most users try to use the simplest and most available materials, which are at hand or on sale.

So, a cast iron sewer pipe burst - what to do? First of all, you need to carefully examine the entire visible surface of the riser. Perhaps the number of cracks is greater than it seems at first glance. Then you need to decide on ways to solve the problem - change the section of the riser to plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, or seal it yourself using improvised means. If most quick ways solutions to the issue are not suitable, you will have to go and negotiate with your neighbors not to use the sewer and water supply for some time. This is very inconvenient, but sometimes there are no other options.