Warm beds of roseum in a greenhouse. Mittlider, Kurdyumov, Lyadov or Rozum: choosing the best “fashionable beds”. Tools for home and garden, handicrafts, etc. prices are very low

Vladimir Rozum’s warm beds are very convenient for developing virgin lands or an area that has not been cultivated for a long time. They do not require labor-intensive plowing, soil cultivation and weed removal; everything remains in place and can be planted immediately. Fast and efficient.

The main difference between warm beds from Rosum is that they are not covered with soil and work well in hot and dry climates, which is especially effective during periods of drought, which comes to us more and more often with climate change.

Moreover, the hotter the better, because... the more intense the process of moisture condensation occurs at the depth of the bed - and the plants are provided with moisture. But you need to make sure that the bed does not dry out - in time to create an organic path with freshly cut grass.
So, let's look at a photo report by Peter Trofimenok, the organizer of the Organic Farming Club in Kyiv, how they created two beds according to this principle.

Making a warm Rosum bed in 12 steps

1. The procedure is simple: first mark, then dig a trench with a bayonet and pile the earth next to it. (Although you can make a ditch with a hoe)

2. We make the edges of the bed flat, one might say funnel-shaped, cutting off the edge with a shovel, flat cutter or rake

3. Don't forget to trample the ground. The main thing is that the plants that we plant in the food beds have close contact with the ground - otherwise they grow poorly.

4. After leveling the edges, we place tree branches at the very bottom of the trench. Not very thick. Thinner branches go higher, thicker ones go to the very bottom.

The wood species are different, those found in the area.

5. Division of labor in a cooperative: while some are digging, others are carrying branches, others are bringing mulch, etc.

This way the process goes faster.

6. Place dry grass, leaves, pioneer plants, tree fruits, and any other organic matter on the branches.

7. It’s very good to put a layer of foliage on top, and the whole thing is covered with mulch.

8. Pour all our organic matter on top. How? There are options, of course. You can use a solution of Emochek 100 ml per 10 liters of water, or, on the recommendation of the Club, you can spill it with a solution of Metarizin - an environmentally friendly drug for protection against mole cricket larvae, Colorado potato beetles, and weevils. The proportions are the same.

9. On final stage we planted currant bushes in the raised beds that our assistants trampled.

10. We covered our warm beds with a layer of straw on top. As you understand, the process of rotting will not occur under the ground of the bed, as in other warm beds, but on the sides, in the feed trenches.
In the photo, the central bed is old, it has not been touched, there is a row of raspberries. On the sides there are two breathing trenches, which are now covered with straw, and two rows with planted currant bushes. The top is also mulched. The result was a double bed of Rosum, adapted to our conditions. Such is the creative process!

11. Spill EM-kam one more time.

12. Voila! You can look around at the fresh, warm beds.
There is little water on our site, so we are hoping for a row of Rosum. It works in hot weather. The hotter it is, the more intensely the moisture condenses at the depth of the bed. To prevent the bed from drying out, it must be mulched in time with freshly cut grass.

How to do something yourself, with your own hands - home craftsman website

Rosum's beds - how to make

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Rosum's beds - reviews and description of technology

ABOUT Rozum's beds I heard for the first time in the fall of 2015 from our wonderful Boris Andreevich Bublik. The more I read and scrutinized the materials received, the more attractive this agricultural technology seemed to me.

First results

Our soils are heavy, clayey, and calcareous. Summer is hot, dry, and dry winds blow constantly. The quality of local water does not stand up to criticism, and its supply in the summer is often limited in both time and quantity. But unlimited watering from one’s own wells often leads to final salinization and death of the soil. In such conditions, the opportunity to get by with minimal watering and provide the roots of developing plants with constant nutrition from organic ditches looked very tempting. The following winter we discussed this topic a lot at our seminars, provided links to Bublik’s webinars and explained the essence of the method “at a glance” to all interested visitors.

The season has passed, now we bring to your attention the first results of using Rosum’s beds on different areas in the vicinity of Taganrog.

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Trofim Korneev lives in Beglitsa, a village 50 km from the city. This is his first independent experience gardening. He could devote minimal time to his beds due to his busy schedule. Nevertheless, the result is very good for a start.

Olga Kotova recently moved with her family to our region from middle zone. These are also their first steps in unusual conditions.

4 beds and 8 ridges were formed. This is what they looked like around the end of June.

Conclusions after a season of using Rosum beds

Rozum's beds are ideal for root vegetables: turnips, beets (especially beets! They just “crowd”), they are pushed by the sides, the tops are fatty, thick), carrots, onions. The Egyptian flat beets looked especially funny, because... It was difficult for it to push due to its shape, I thinned it out as I ate it to give room for the sides to grow. The carrots were large and juicy. Although in our village they believe that carrots “fail,” and not everyone even plants them. And I generally planted carrots wherever something was freed up, in two passes, in spring and at the end of summer.

The pepper felt great.

It bore fruit abundantly until the very frosts, until it froze. Next to the pepper, carrots grew on the same ridge.

The eggplants didn’t work out, but it’s the turnip’s fault. I planted it late, and by the time the eggplants were planted, there was a turnip “jungle” with thick tops on the ridge. They bore fruit, of course, but they couldn’t compare with peppers.

There was also physalis in the beds, and the difference with the physalis growing in an ordinary bed was significant. In the garden bed it spread along the ground, there was not enough moisture, and I rarely had time to water, but on Rozum it grew tall bushes. But I won’t plant it on Rozum anymore - it’s inconvenient, the bushes hang down into the passage. There were also squash, which also overgrown with burdocks and were getting in the way; I will plant them in other places.

It was still quite late, almost in mid-June, I planted tomato seedlings on Rozuma in place of the removed onions and beets. There wasn’t much difference between the tomatoes in Rozuma and those in a regular bed, but Rozuma didn’t water those outer ridges where the tomatoes were at all, and the bed was watered at least 2-3 times a week. So the savings in labor costs are obvious. For me this is fundamentally important. And it was also convenient that by July, when they “lay down” directly on the pit, I did not tie them up. It was convenient to pick clean tomatoes directly from the grass.

Rosum was not watered all summer, except for the rightmost bed (2 ridges), because... there was pepper and my husband was worried about it in the heat. I watered it like this: I put the hose between the ridges and left it for a while. Although I put my hand into organic matter in the heat, it was humid there.

This year I will reduce the height of the ridges for peppers and eggplants, I think it’s almost level with the ground... In our arid climate, it seems to me that the standard 10 cm in height is too much. The root vegetables were good, but the eggplants showed that they needed a lower level, and I think it wouldn’t hurt the peppers either.

Rosum's beds - personal experience

And finally, my personal experience working with Rosum's beds.

On our site there was a gentle slope 6 m wide and 8 m long, with a total area of about fifty meters. It’s all full of potholes and potholes, and there’s almost no land there, one might say, since the previous owners stored coal there for many years and dumped slag and other household garbage. Given our still undeveloped expanses, we could give up on it and postpone its improvement until better times. But... this space is too welcomingly open to the sun and reliably protected from winds from the north and east by a solid fence!

Yes, and it is located close to home. So I decided to cultivate this area with the help of Rozum’s beds. Moreover, she abandoned the tracks, replacing them with the same organic stripes. The result was six wedge-shaped ditches 80 cm wide at the top, filled according to all the rules.

As it was filled, I poured the “filling” with EM infusion and covered it with dry hay. Productive strips of land on both sides bordered on organic matter, so I made them wider than recommended - 50 cm and did not raise their level at all - it’s hot and windy here. The seventh, lowest bed was completed with a limestone retaining wall.

I laid out the beds at the end of May. According to our weather, it was very late, but it was not too early at all - the peak of the spring season in the Center.

On the beds grew: beets, dill, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, basil. Whole line with adjacent stripes (2.1 m) was allocated individually for squash and zucchini, taking into account their size. All season, once a week, all plants received foliar feeding with our traditional bio-cocktail (“Healthy Garden” + “Ecoberin” + EM1).

Due to the rampant growth, it soon became impossible to take normal photographs, and then simply move between the beds, and, consequently, add new portions of organic material to the passages. As a result, the walls of the ditches in the upper part became noticeably exposed, that is, just the root-inhabited layer of my beds. Nevertheless, most of the crops grew and bore fruit regularly until the frosts in the second ten days of October, did not get sick, and did not suffer from pest attacks.

My own conclusions in my particular case are:

Rosum's beds have proven themselves well on my site;
I should pack the ditches more tightly at the beginning of the season and use more coarse organic matter (branches up to 2 cm in diameter) in the middle part of the ditches (I am already harvesting);
Zucchini, cabbage and other “large-sized” plants should be planted exclusively along the border of the plot with beds. In my case, they didn’t have enough of a strip more than two meters wide (80 + 50 + 80 cm).

LET'S SUM UP THE GENERAL RESULTS:

Rozum's beds are irreplaceable where it is not possible to pay much attention to planting. The time and labor spent on their construction pays off many times over during their use.
The beds really uninterruptedly provide moisture to all crops. Usually, belatedly planted root crops (end of May - June) do not grow at all. Here, beets, carrots, and parsnips felt great all season.
Due to the dense standing of plants and their powerful development, the root-inhabited soil layer is reliably protected from our harsh sun, does not overheat and does not dry out.
In Rozum's beds, the usual phenomena caused by overheating are not observed: color fading on peppers, tomatoes and eggplants, blossom end rot, increased calcium deposition in fruits, which makes them tasteless and inedible.

Next season I want to partially plant in the beds fruit bushes– raspberries, currants, as well as garden strawberries. Very interesting: what will come of this?

HOW TO MAKE ROSUM BEDS?

Rozum's beds: how to make and what are the advantages?

Rozum's beds, naturally, are named after their author: Vladimir Rozum.

This technology for arranging beds was invented by him out of considerations of extreme necessity: in a hot region in the summer, the situation with water is extremely tense and gardeners are inventing all sorts of watering methods or agricultural techniques that significantly reduce the need of plants for water.

In central Russia (we are on the border of zones 4 and 3) the weather is not always warm (it doesn’t happen year after year), there are, however, no problems with water, but here, too, this technology for arranging beds will come in handy:

a thick layer of organic matter is laid, which, when overheated, releases heat, which is important in a cold region for comfortable living of plants in the garden
a multi-layer cake of organic matter will nourish the plants for several years, and the bottom layer of thick pieces of wood will generally last for 8-10 years.
the second bottom drainage layer of branches works as a condensate accumulator, which makes it possible not only to reduce watering, but also, in general, to eliminate watering as one of the stages of the technological process in growing vegetables

Rozuma's warm bed: what is the difference from a regular warm bed?

What is the difference between the Rozuma warm bed and the usual (traditional) warm bed:

condensation of moisture in the soil and the ability to reduce watering
rotting processes occur only in the middle of the bed and are not present in the outer rows where plants are planted, which allows you to plant any vegetables, including root crops, which is not recommended to be done in an ordinary warm bed, since putrefactive processes occur in it and the root crops become sick.
the middle part of the bed is replenished with organic matter (mown grass) several times during the season, which makes it possible to restore soil fertility on a constant basis, without periods of rest and shortage
with constant replenishment of food material, the bed can withstand any compacted planting and the replacement of some plants by others as they mature, as long as the vegetable crops are compatible
the strips of earth on which the plants “rage” are only 30 cm wide, and between them there is a 60 cm wide trench, free of plantings and not overgrown with weeds, which gives the plants a huge amount of light. And as you know, all crops love good lighting, and some, in general, do not bear fruit if they do not have enough light (with dense plantings or from shading with their own foliage, as, for example, in the case of zucchini).
narrow 30 cm strips of planting land with crops growing on them, it makes no sense to mulch, since the plants themselves are mulch, because, firstly, the planting is compacted (close) and there are few free spaces, and secondly, the above-ground part of the plants is so powerful , which covers the entire space without a trace.

Rosum beds: application options

I personally liked the idea of a garden bed that you can make once, and then not fertilize or water for several years, so, inspired, in the fall of 2018, I decided to apply this method in my garden. Try it.

Two locations were selected for the project:

one of two wide beds available on my site. All other beds were not suitable, since their width is 0.5-0.6 m, and Rozum’s bed, due to its specifics, requires 1.2 m
raspberry tree, restoration of which is long overdue

And, although it is recommended to use this technology to choose places for arrangement on inconvenient areas, so as not to limit yourself in space, and also that several beds of Rosum, arranged side by side, have paths between them, which can also be used for the benefit: sow fast-growing green manure on them, which after mowing, they are folded into the Rozum trench, replenishing the settling green mass, but no one forbids you to adapt this agricultural technology to your needs.

1. Rozuma’s bed: we make it from an ordinary bed

I chose the wide bed because it had long been necessary to somehow enrich the soil. Before that, strawberries had grown here for five years in a row, which pulled everything that was possible out of the soil. Since the soil on our entire site is indigestible and infertile, we have to work on it every year and that is why the beds on the site have permanent place, so that it is easier to change the soil on them over time, replacing it with fertile one, without involving the paths in this process.

The bed I chose, moreover, is located in partial shade, behind the greenhouse. Two minuses in one place greatly affect the yield of the crops that grow here. Therefore, the method of arranging a Rozum bed in this place is a good move, which will give three advantages at once:

constant warmth of the soil due to coarse organic matter in the lower zone
organic fertilizer and, as a result, compost right on the spot
constant moisture in the root zone of plants, regardless of weather conditions. Especially relevant in hot weather. And although we have enough water, I am a pensioner and for me it is necessary to reduce the amount of watering in my large garden. great value for my health. Moreover, the water in the well is cold and it takes a lot of effort and labor to water the beds with warm water.

These advantages will cover one half-minus: partial shade. Half-minus, because there is also half-plus: the wall of the greenhouse protects the bed from permanent western winds, which is very good for many cultures. For example, you can plant tomatoes that tolerate partial shade or even shade-tolerant cucumbers.

In the Rozuma garden bed, due to the smoothing of a large amount of organic residues, which, by rotting, constantly feed the plants, gardeners use combined and compacted plantings, and at the same time receive a rich harvest of all the crops growing in symbiosis on it.

How to make a Rosuma bed

So, briefly about how to make a Rozum bed using an existing regular bed with board sides:

a trench is dug in the middle the width of the shovel and the depth of the shovel bayonet. At the same time, all the soil must be folded on both sides of the trench, thereby raising the height of the bed
The sides of the trench are cut at an angle and a slight bevel is made in order to stabilize the configuration of the trench for several years: so that the earth from the sides does not crumble inward.
The soil from the trench is cleared from the sides and the bottom of the trench is slightly deepened. As a result, you need to get a fairly deep triangular ditch.
pieces of wood are placed on the bottom: bars, boards, leftovers and trimmings from pallets, broken old window frames and so on. Everything that takes a long time to rot.

In Rozum's garden bed, the two bottom layers should be made of pieces of wood and branches on top of them.

On top of the wood you need to lay a drainage and air (breathing) layer of branches. Surely, in the fall you cut something and you have a large pile that you previously intended to burn: raspberries, currants, cherries, apple trees... Don’t burn! Place it in the trench. This layer plays a huge role in the production of condensation and moisture accumulation in the trench, so in no case should you neglect this particular layer.

Along the branches you need to lay dry or dried grass that has lain for at least a couple of weeks after mowing. This layer is considered a cover layer based on the drainage layer of branches, so it must be dry. Maybe autumn foliage.

next: green grass or tops after harvesting.

the green layer should always be covered with a dry layer, such as tree litter

since dry foliage is carried by the wind, it needs to be covered with something on top, you can lay it down again, for example, some tops (I used all the available remnants aboveground parts plants: tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, cabbage).

If you do not have dry organic matter, but only green matter, then the layers need to be sprinkled with Radiance-3 to start the processing process and prevent the green mass from rotting. In any case, Shining-3 is a guarantor correct processes in Rozuma's bed, you will simply have to add green mass to the trench much more often during the season, since Radiance bacteria process organic matter much faster, turning it into humus, than if this happened during the usual process.

So, as a result, the following should appear in the garden:

in the middle there is a wide organic path, about 50-60 cm wide
high sides of soil at the edges
the entire bed almost doubled in height.

On high bed in the spring, the soil warms up much faster, which means that you can plant some greens (radish, daikon, onion, dill) earlier as compacting plants, the harvest of which can be enjoyed much earlier than usual. The main crop should be planted when the soil is guaranteed to warm up to 15 degrees Celsius, which will also happen very quickly, since the bed is made according to the warm principle.

By the way, to prevent the grass from the paths from creeping into the beds, be sure to fence the beds and dig the sides 10 cm deep, otherwise you will suffer: the grass also really loves organic matter.

2. Rozum’s bed on the raspberry field

I was most happy when I figured out that Rosum’s bed could be made with raspberries. The fact is that we have long wanted to revive our raspberry garden so that it would begin to give us twice as much yield with the same planting area.

It’s worth writing a separate article about this, but here I’ll just say that raspberries really love good lighting, air and moisture. For those who don’t water raspberries, at least mulch them so that their shallow roots don’t experience stress due to lack of water in the hot summer.

Rozum’s method is designed so that the raspberries won’t need to be watered at all if everything is done correctly and water will condense under the layer of drainage from the branches. You can check this by putting your hand into the bottom layer, under which you should feel cold (oddly enough). B.A. talks about this effect. Bagel. If there is no such sensation, then your design does not work in terms of moisture condensation. Look at YouTube, where he explains how Rosum's bed should work correctly.

Personally, I was attracted by the following additional feature of this method:

a trench (ditch) with organic matter, which will need to be constantly replenished with new material, since during the season it is very quickly processed into humus and DOES NOT OVERGROW WITH GRASS.

Rosum's bed, organized on raspberries. On the one hand there are existing raspberry plantings, on the other there are new seedlings.

The fact is that the path along the raspberry plantings took me a lot of time to weed it. It became so overgrown that it began to thicken and shade the raspberries. Raspberry plantings should be able to be blown with air so as not to get sick and not to accumulate various bacteria and fungi due to lack of sun and air.

I built a trench (ditch) and the Rozum bed itself in place of the path, correcting the existing plants:

on the side where raspberries were already growing, I added a bead of soil when I dug a trench
along the way, I dug up all the seedlings that had grown outside the trellis, jumping out onto the path
on the other side of the trench, when it was dug, a narrow strip of Rozum’s bed was also formed, naturally, above the current ground level, which is very important, since it is better to plant raspberries higher
filled the trench with organic matter according to the recommended technology: wood at the bottom, then branches, and above numerous remnants from the garden.
on the newly organized side of the bed I planted new raspberry seedlings at a distance of 0.7-1.0 m from each other

What did Rozuma’s raspberry bed give me, as a result of which I expect to increase its yield by at least 2 times, or even more:

a path on which grass will not grow, which means the legs of the raspberry bushes will always be ventilated, and I will not waste my already precious time on weeding
additional lighting from the side of the trench, where there used to be a path shaded by weeds. Moreover, my raspberry garden is organized along the fence and receives lighting only from one side. If there is not enough light, then the raspberry branches stretch very much in height up to 2.5-3m. A sort of huge green mass and a minimum of berries.
continuous and very intensive feeding of raspberries from a trench, as a result of which you do not have to worry about feeding them with mineral fertilizers during the season
There will be no need to water even in the heat, since there will be enough moisture in the trench for all the bushes planted on both sides of it. Taking into account the fact that the surface of the raspberry tree will still be mulched, it will indeed save a lot of time.
There will be no need to spray leaf by leaf against diseases, because they will not be on healthy plants. Well, if only for the sake of prevention at the beginning and end of the season.

Since Rozum’s beds are also called intensive due to the fact that gardeners get huge yields from them even with compacted plantings, it seems that raspberries will not be an exception to the rule, especially since they respond very gratefully to any organic fertilizing and fertilizers.

In the future, during the 2019 season, I will definitely write about the results of this experiment and my impressions.

Organic Rosuma beds for gardening

So, what is the central attribute of every vegetable garden? That's right - a garden bed! This very bed, on which, in fact, all our vegetables, fruits and all sorts of other crops grow, can be designed in completely different ways. There are so many ways to arrange a garden bed! And, most importantly, everything is aimed at convenience, quality and increasing productivity. In this article we will talk about special beds, meet: intensive Rosuma beds, and we will try to give not only theory, but also feedback on these designs.

What are Rozuma intensive beds and how do they differ from ordinary beds?

Rozum's beds are special beds, the functionality of which is aimed at helping nature naturally produce the quantity and quality of the harvest that it can and wants to give, without regard to additional accompanying conditions. Additional conditions here include not only soil conditions that are far from ideal for birth bountiful harvest, but also that “habitual” care that usually surrounds any garden bed - endless weeding, watering, fertilizing.

But let’s turn to nature, to that very nature where there is none of the above. What do we see? In nature, all this is achieved naturally - fertilizing is taken from organic matter, instead of watering - rain, etc. Likewise, the design of Rozum’s beds is based on natural processes and interactions, so it gives maximum yield with a minimum of human effort, regardless of the condition of the soil. In addition, it has been directly established that under comparative conditions, the yield of the crop grown in Rozum’s beds is 30-35% higher than when grown in the traditional way.

The “usefulness” of such beds is obvious - it is not only a high yield, but also a reduction in costs - both physically and economically. The most difficult thing here is to lay out the Rosum bed, since it must be created according to certain rules. And then everything will work out by itself. Features (or rather, advantages) of this type of ridges:

The bed “lives” for about 6 years, and you don’t need to do anything with it, just add organic matter annually. And only after these years the bed will have to be completely renewed, because... It is during these years that the lowest layer of branches will already rot and cease to perform its functions.
Rozum's intensive beds are suitable for developing virgin lands or for land that has not been cultivated for a long time; they are laid directly on the turf. They “develop” the soil well and do not require excessive effort. Excellent for rocky, poor soils. Such beds enrich the soil with nutrients.
Do not require watering: never, none. The system for constructing these beds is aimed at “self-sufficiency” in terms of moisture. Thus, plants in such a bed are not afraid of drought. This is especially important in gardens where there is no water supply (rain-fed farming).
Environmental friendliness. Rosum's beds are not fed with any fertilizers other than natural organic matter. This allows you to grow not only an environmentally friendly product, but also avoid the cost of the same fertilizers.

How does Rosum's bed work?

How does such a bed work? And it works so effectively that it increases crop yields on poor soils and saturates them with essential nutrients? How is this achieved?

The answer is quite simple. Everything is achieved through the correct location and arrangement of bed layers, which ultimately give a visible effect. Rozum's bed consists of several global layers - these are tree branches and organic matter in large quantities.

Large thick branches at the bottom of the bed promote microcirculation of air. That is, air passes freely through the organic matter placed on top to the end of the ditch through the branches. As you know, the temperature of the earth at depth is lower than on the surface, and due to free circulation, moisture will condense there, which will meet the water needs of not only plants, but also the soil as a whole. By the way, in arid regions you can still throw hydrogel into the ditch. The pumpkin ones will definitely go crazy about this.

As for nutrients, this is the concern of the organic layer. Not only does it provide fertilizer, but it also releases carbon dioxide, which is a powerful nutrient for crops.

Stages of how to make a Rosum bed

In fact, the principle of building a Rozum bed is quite simple. It is based on such familiar things as organic matter, humus, but not only. To obtain the desired effect, it is necessary to create special air circulation in the ridge.

Construction consists of several stages:

And now our Rozuma bed is ready - such a warm blanket will create the necessary atmosphere for the “development” of the land, the production of fertilizers and nutrients for the soil, and, of course, for the plants that we will plant along the edges of the Rozuma bed.

And only now, after arranging the main bed, it was the turn of planting crops. Landing takes place on both sides of the ridge - on the right and on the left, along its entire length. Thus, one bed of Rosum feeds two beds of plants at once. We plant plants on the shafts that were created after digging a ditch.

In principle, any crops can be planted near the Rozum bed, but, judging by the feedback from practitioners, it is better to plant vegetables that require hilling in the first year - this will help deepen the groove, which will have a beneficial effect on further plantings. In the second year, it is best to plant zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, cucumbers/tomatoes. If you have not updated the organic layer this year, then the bed will serve perfectly for those who are not very demanding. nutrients crops - these could be, for example, peas or any greens.

Well, of course, the beds can be adapted for planting any crops. This is exactly what V. Rozum is doing in the Rosichi ecovillage - together they are creating a permaculture eco-garden:

Further care of the beds is normal (from the point of view organic farming), these are compacted mixed plantings, green manuring, and replenishment of organic matter. The most successful time for planting is autumn, since over the winter the ridges will settle, and the organic matter will “catch” and begin to ferment. Here’s some more visual material on how Rozum’s garden bed is arranged, a video from the charming Valeria Zashchitina:

In general, the use of warm Rosum beds increases the overall fertility of the soil and improves its “technical” condition to a good level within two years. During the same time, there is an increase in yield by approximately 30%. If you, too, are already using Rozum’s intensive beds, leave your feedback in the comments, they will be useful to visitors to our site.

Vladimir Rozum's garden bed: our experience

The procedure is simple: first mark, then dig a trench with a bayonet and pile the earth next to it.
2.

To prevent the earth from falling back, you need a trampling assistant 😉
3.

We make the edges of the bed flat, one might say funnel-shaped, by cutting off the edge with a shovel, flat cutter or rake:
4.

And don't forget to trample the ground. The main thing is that the plants that we plant in the food beds have close contact with the ground - otherwise they grow poorly.
5.

It is best to teach by example. Children are happy to help.
6.

Give women a tool and get a moment of silence!)))
7.

Dad, look what we're doing!)
8.

It will be nice for the girls to look at these photos in 30 years! I would be very pleased.)
9.

Hard work is a skill.
10.

Don't forget to pose! Girls are such girls!)
11.

After leveling the edges, we place tree branches at the very bottom of the trench. Not very thick. Thinner branches go higher, thicker ones go to the very bottom.
12.

The wood species are different, those found in the area.
13.

Division of labor in a cooperative: while some are digging, others are carrying branches, others are bringing mulch, etc.
14.

This way the process goes faster.
15.

The next step: we place dry grass, foliage, pioneer plants, tree fruits, and any other organic matter on the branches.
16.

It is very good to put a layer of foliage on top, and the whole thing is covered with mulch.
17.

We pour all our organic matter on top. How? There are options, of course. You can use a solution of Emochek 100 ml per 10 liters of water, or, on the recommendation of the Club, you can spill it with a solution of Metarizin - an environmentally friendly drug for protection against mole cricket larvae, Colorado potato beetles, and weevils. The proportions are the same.
18.

At the final stage, we planted currant bushes in the raised beds that our assistants had trampled down.
19.

Spontaneity as it is. Tired - lay down to rest, look at the sky, think about the day)
20.

We covered our warm beds with a layer of straw on top. As you understand, the process of rotting will not occur under the ground of the bed, as in other warm beds, but on the sides, in the feed trenches.
In photo 21, the central bed is old, it has not been touched, there is a row of raspberries. On the sides there are two breathing trenches, which are now covered with straw, and two rows with planted currant bushes. The top is also mulched. The result was a double bed of Rosum, adapted to our conditions. Such is the creative process!
21.

We spill the EM-kami one more time.
22.

Voila! You can look around at the fresh, warm beds.
There is little water on our site, so we are hoping for a row of Rosum. It works in hot weather. The hotter it is, the more intensely the moisture condenses at the depth of the bed. To prevent the bed from drying out, it must be mulched in time with freshly cut grass.

Rosum's Eternal Bed

I think many people have heard about warm beds. And someone may have even created them on their site for cucumbers and other heat-loving crops. Nowadays, advanced gardeners increasingly prefer Rosum beds. To understand all the nuances of their creation, I turned to organic agriculture expert Nikolai Bykov for help. In Minsk at the “Organic School”, which is organized by the institution “Center environmental solutions“, at one of the practical seminars on crop rotation, he shared exactly this experience.

- Rosum's beds are a creative development of warm beds with the only difference that the organic matter in them does not burn, but slowly overheats, giving the plants maximum nutrients. In this case, crops are planted not above an organic trench, but on the side - on the ridges of ordinary garden soil, explains Nikolai Ivanovich. - Practical use warm beds of Rosum is that with minimal costs the yield of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers or berries increases by 30 - 55%. The fertility of even the poorest soils also increases.

Vladimir Nikitovich Rozum himself is a professional gardener, for whom organic farming is not just empty words. Arrangement of reservoirs, construction of greenhouses, competent cultivation of land using simple tools, use of green manure and organic fertilizers, increasing the productivity of garden and vegetable crops is only a small part of his work. The idea for the beds was suggested to the master by abandoned vegetable gardens and unkempt, infertile soils. At the same time, Rozum’s beds are not at all labor-intensive: even a pensioner can make them. There is no need to plow or cultivate the soil, remove weeds and other unnecessary plant debris. Yes, and you can sow or plant crops right away. Everything turns out quickly and simply. The result will become noticeable literally within a season. And most importantly: once you make a garden bed, you can use it for many years. And you can create it in any season. Even on the eve of frost: over the winter the earth’s strength will be restored naturally.

So let's get started. The width of the central part is 60 cm, that is, two bayonets of a shovel. The trench must be made so that in its center there is a triangular, wedge-like depression 30 cm deep. To do this, you can use not only a shovel, but also a hoe or a Fokin flat cutter.

We dig the soil and carefully lay it out on both sides of the trench. Here will be our food beds (each 30 cm wide), on which we will grow the necessary gardening garden crops. Do not forget to trample down the soil so that the plants that we plant in the food beds have close contact with the ground - otherwise they will not grow well. On the sides of the feed beds there are lawn paths 60 cm wide. The result is this: lawn path - feed bed - center with organic components (the so-called organic path) - feed bed - lawn path, etc. (see picture).

The length of the bed is arbitrary: as much as the area allows or the strength to dig it up. The Rozuma warm bed was patented in Ukraine and tested in various regions of Ukraine and Russia on both small and large (4 hectares) plots. And everywhere it shows high efficiency and a very good harvest.

After leveling the edges, we place old unnecessary boards, logs and other thick wood at the very bottom of the trench. It is here, at the very bottom, that moisture will condense in the heat. After all, the temperature of the earth at depth is lower than on the surface. This depression, filled mainly with tree branches, acts as a drainage channel. But not only moisture will flow into its voids, but also carbon dioxide, the share of which, together with water, in plant nutrition is more than 75%. The gas itself in this bed is formed as a result of the respiration of all earth living creatures, of which there will be a lot here over time. Since carbon dioxide is heavier than air, this drainage channel becomes a kind of reservoir where it will be stored and gradually disperse into the depths and along the sides of the bed, dissolving in groundwater. And from there, from aqueous solutions, along with other nutrients, it will be absorbed by the roots of plants and supplied to the leaves for photosynthesis. The other part of carbon dioxide forms with groundwater carbonic acid. It reacts with insoluble salts of phosphorus, potassium, and other mineral elements, transforming these compounds into a soluble state that is easily and quickly absorbed by plants.

Carbon dioxide and ammonia nitrogen practically do not escape from such a ditch into the atmosphere. They are almost immediately completely absorbed by the root system of plants that grow nearby in food beds. Such a deep drainage channel, which is therefore always filled with wet mulch, is a stable source of other nutrients. And not only. Through these peculiar cracks in the soil, both air (which means the earth breathes) and moisture easily penetrate.

We lightly sprinkle the thick wood (almost dust it) with earth and lay out the thinner branches. Again a little earth, and another layer of straw, fallen leaves, bark and plant residues. So we fill the hole to the very top. The last layer should be “green”: weeds pulled out by the roots, grass clippings. We compact it a little. And, attention, last layer We don’t cover it with earth! Organic residues will become “food” for microorganisms, which will begin their work producing organic fertilizer. The microbes will release carbon dioxide, which feeds the garden crops grown in the food beds. The main difference between Rosum's warm beds is that they are not covered with soil and work well in hot and dry climates. And the hotter the better: the more intensely the moisture condenses at the depth of the bed. And the plants are fully provided with water. And air passes freely through the thickness of mulch and wood debris.

If the top layer of an organic bed is covered with soil, then after the rains a crust will form and the soil will stop breathing. And without access to oxygen, the process will go from aerobic to anaerobic. Completely different thermophilic bacteria will begin to develop, and everything will go differently.

We mulch the top of the Rosum bed with straw or freshly cut grass. Such a warm “blanket” will significantly speed up the natural processes that will now occur with more high temperatures. But the main task mulch - cover and protect microorganisms from the sun, reduce the weathering of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, and also prolong and stretch out the decay of organic matter over time, preventing it from decomposing quickly and all at once.

In the compacted food beds (those to the right and left of the organic trench) we plant the crops we need in 2 rows. It could be like vegetable plants, and berries - raspberries, gooseberries, currants. We deliberately thicken the plantings in order (according to I. Ovsinsky’s system) to provoke competition in the plants and the desire to leave behind as many offspring as possible, that is, to produce more high-quality fruits.

In the first year, it is better to sow plants that require hilling. This will deepen the center trench and allow it to become as nutritious as possible.

At first glance, this use of soil may seem wasteful. But our goal is to restore the neglected area. Year after year, Rosum's beds will create and multiply fertility by producing humus from plant residues. Crops planted on the ramparts will receive sufficient quantity moisture and nutrients. In addition, all plantings are open to air and sun. All this makes it possible to obtain high yields in the first year, even on previously infertile soil.

We also seed lawn paths, because the ground should under no circumstances be left open. Oats, wheat, clover, alfalfa and other green manure crops are suitable. During the season, we mow them as they grow, and with the resulting greenery we mulch both the organic trench and the plants in the food bed.

Since there are no weeds in such beds (there is simply nowhere for them to grow), caring for plants comes down to two points. First: several times during the summer, use a flat cutter to loosen and thin out these two rows. Second: of course, replenish organic beds with mulch.

In late autumn, after collecting the last harvest from the food beds, we trim the plants with a flat cutter or scythe and place them in an organic groove. Sprinkle a little soil and sow green manure. The central bed is ready for wintering. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, we sow the organic ditch and lawn path with green manure. And when it gets warmer, we plant without preliminary preparation plant soils and in food beds.

Rozum's bed can be not only straight, but also circular. It is especially good in the garden. The principle of creation is the same. The tree can be either completely ringed with a nutrient groove, or selectively, making mini-beds along the diameter of the crown.

Do you want to be guaranteed to get a high yield of organic vegetables, berries and fruits? And with minimal labor costs, on any soil, in any climate and in any weather? Then you need a Rosum bed. And now is the time to do it. There's a whole garden of organic leftovers.

Practice has shown: after 2 years of using Rozum’s beds, depleted loamy soils turn into black soil.

Advantages of V. Rozum’s beds:

1) speed and ease of manufacture, especially for virgin soil;

2) durability, subject to replenishment of the organic trench;

3) provide additional nutrition to the plantings;

4) facilitate weed control;

5) retain moisture well, that is, they require little watering;

6) allow you to grow environmentally friendly products.

How to arrange the beds on the site, what to fill them with, what height to raise them to and how much fertilizer to apply? Your harvest directly depends on the answers to these questions, but what to choose so as not to make a mistake?

While someone is arranging garden beds the old fashioned way, the inquisitive minds of summer residents around the world are working on a solution important issue– what arrangement of beds will contribute to increased productivity and make the gardener’s work easier? Practitioners and theorists of gardening art from the USA, Russia, Ukraine and other countries offer their options, and you just have to choose the best one.

The oldest unusual beds can safely be considered the Mittlider beds - they appeared more than 40 years ago and became a real “bomb” in gardening. Since then, this method has been tried almost all over the world, and both its advantages and quite obvious disadvantages have been identified.

How to make beds according to Mittlider

The dimensions of the beds are strictly defined - their width is 45 cm, along the edges there are earthen sides 10 cm high, and the passages between the beds should be 90-100 cm wide. The location of the beds also does not tolerate variations - only from east to west, strictly in a sunny place, otherwise the result will be far from ideal.

However, making such beds is still half the battle - placing vegetables on them is also important. Each crop according to the Mittlider method has a strictly verified planting scheme. So, onions and other compact crops are planted in 4 rows, squash and tomato bushes in 1 row along one of the sides, vegetables and medium-sized root vegetables - in 2 rows.

And finally, most important stage is regular depositing mineral fertilizers into the ground. Before planting, light soils are saturated with calcium and boron at the rate of 100 g per 1 linear meter, and for heavy soils this rate is doubled. Then every 7-10 days the ridges are fertilized with a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and molybdenum (60 g per 1 linear meter). Mineral substances are scattered dry between the rows, after which the ridges are thoroughly and abundantly watered.

You can buy the nutritional mixture ready-made, or you can make it yourself. To do this, you have to mix 420 g of azophosphate, 280 g of kalimag, 190 g of urea, 110 g of superphosphate and 2 g of molybdic and boric acid each.

Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider

Over the decades of existence of Mittlider’s theory of gardening, millions of people tried it on their plots, but most of them returned to other options after a few seasons. This is due to the fact that, despite the high yield, not everyone is able to follow the author’s advice.

Firstly, the huge amount of mineral fertilizers can scare away supporters of natural farming. Secondly, their frequent application requires time and a certain pedantry - each crop needs its own mineral complexes, and everything must be calculated to the nearest gram. Thirdly, such intensive use of fertilizers leads to higher prices for the final product, and not all summer residents can afford this. And finally, the formation of narrow ridges with wide row spacing simply contradicts our mentality, when every centimeter of land should be occupied by a useful crop, and not just rest.

Lyadov's beds

Lyadov's beds (as the author himself admits) were the result of a reworking of Mittlider's ideas. True, in the process they changed so much that the resemblance to the “progenitor” is not striking. They will be an excellent option for those who have damp area, regularly flooded in the spring, or an area with close groundwater.

How to make beds according to Lyadov

The width of the beds remains the same as in the previous case, but the paths between the beds are considerably narrowed and now reach only half a meter in width. The ridges themselves rise 15-25 cm and are enclosed in high boxes. Of course, it is impossible to collect the required volume of soil from the passages, so plant debris, sawdust, straw, and leaves are sent into the boxes. All this is watered with EM preparations (ready-made or homemade) and covered with a layer of soil from the rows. In the fall, after harvesting, green manure is sown on the ridges and plant residues are laid again. The author of the method suggests sowing the row spacing with grass or filling it with sawdust.

Lyadov uses mainly organic fertilizers (infusions of herbs, humus, manure and droppings). True, if plants lack one or another mineral, one should not abandon the targeted use of special products.

Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov

Beds made according to Lyadov’s method are perfect for damp areas, but in dry areas they will require continuous watering and will pretty much exhaust the owner with the constant drying out of plant roots. In addition, an excess of plant residues in beds can contribute to the development of numerous diseases, active reproduction and excellent wintering of harmful insects.

To understand whether such beds are right for you, it is better to make 1-2 small ones first and check how the plants feel in them and whether it makes sense to put together boxes for all crops.

Rosum's beds

The beds proposed by the Ukrainian gardener are complex to implement and not very easy to maintain. They perform well in a fertile and sunny climate, but in central Russia or the northern regions they can fail.

How to make beds according to Rozum

Harvest beds according to Rozum are ridges, 30 cm wide, located every 60 cm. On one side of the ridge, a groove is dug as deep as a spade bayonet, filled with plant debris, and on the other, a path of green manure is sown.

As green manure grows, you need to mow, plow and sow new ones. The grooves need to be supplemented with fresh plant debris as soon as they begin to sag. Caring for Rosum beds comes down to removing weeds and watering, preferably at the roots.

Pros and cons of beds according to Rozum

The advantages of miracle beds include, perhaps, the presence of a place for disposal of plant and food waste, and unusual external water. But it’s worth dwelling on the disadvantages in more detail: the beds require complex, painstaking care, there is little space left for the vegetables themselves, the ridges of the earth often crumble or sag.

Such a bed can become more of an experimental entertainment, but it is not recommended to transfer the entire plot to the Rozuma system, unless, of course, you live on the plot continuously and are ready to devote all your days to gardening.

Kurdyumov's beds

Beds for the lazy – that’s what they most often call it – is a planting option proposed by Kurdyumov. In order to make them, you will need to put together tall boxes and lay the layers inside in a special way.

How to make beds according to Kurdyumov

There are two options for ridges according to Kurdyumov - boxes and trenches. The former are good in regions with a damp or cold climate, the latter - in hot, dry areas. For box beds, special wooden boxes 50 cm wide and 30 to 60 cm high are built, and for trench beds, respectively, trenches are dug 30-40 cm deep and 60 cm wide.

If quality boards If you don’t have it at hand, you can build boxes from slabs, slate, galvanized metal, etc.

Large pieces of wood and branches are placed at the bottom of the trench or box, then a layer of earth, a layer of organic waste, and EM preparations are poured on top to activate decomposition processes. Then several (2-3) layers of organic matter are alternated with soil, watered again with EM preparations and covered with a thick (5-8 cm) layer of mulch. Husks, mown dried grass, agrofibre, etc. can be used as mulching material.

The passages between the ridges are mowed and covered with mulch, boards, cardboard or other materials. You can also lay paving slabs or gravel between the ridges, then the garden will look even neater.

Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov

Kurdyumov's beds are an excellent option, working for several years without “refueling”. The continuous decomposition of plant residues in the lower layers of the bed warms the soil, protects plant roots from frost, saturates the soil with nutrients and attracts beneficial insects and soil bacteria. High sides protect plantings from weeds and gardeners from working at an angle. True, such beds dry out quickly, so it is necessary to either place them next to a water source or organize drip irrigation.

The drainage channel is a carbon dioxide storage facility.

The operating principle of a strawberry (garden) warm bed is the same as a garden warm bed, but it is slightly larger in size and configuration. This strawberry bed, 1.3-1.4 m wide, is more powerful than a garden bed, and is formed with the help of a shovel and. On it, in addition to garden crops, we also grow berries (strawberries, currants, raspberries, grapes...), and also plant orchards. Especially intense breeds fruit trees- columnar, dwarf. The groove of such a warm strawberry bed (see diagram) 60-70 cm wide is formed by digging a groove with a shovel up to three bayonets wide and one bayonet deep (20-25 cm) in the center and half a bayonet on the sides. And then, when all the earth has been selected from it, a depression (another groove) of one shovel bayonet (20-25 cm) is dug in the center of this ditch. This depression, filled mainly with tree branches, acts as a drainage channel. But it is not water that will flow into its voids, but carbon dioxide - the main food for plants, the share of which, together with water, in plant nutrition is more than 75%. And carbon dioxide itself is formed in this bed as a result of the respiration of all earth living creatures in very large quantities. Since carbon dioxide is heavier than air, this drainage channel becomes a kind of reservoir (storage) where it will be stored and gradually disperse into the depths and along the sides of the bed, dissolving in its groundwater, from where it, along with other nutrients in these aqueous solutions, is absorbed by the roots plants and is supplied to the leaves for photosynthesis. And the other part of the carbon dioxide forms carbonic acid with these groundwaters. And this acid reacts there with insoluble salts of phosphorus, potassium, and other mineral elements and transforms these compounds into a soluble state in which they can be absorbed by plants.

Although, it goes without saying that such a deep drainage channel and therefore always filled with wet mulch is also stable source and other nutrients. And not just nutrients. After all, air easily penetrates into the ground through these peculiar cracks, and the earth breathes there. And also moisture. The soil in such beds is able to accept and retain even the largest precipitation that falls in the form of rain and snow.

EM-mulch technology on warm beds.

After filling its drainage channel with thick branches and tree trunks, small tree branches and coarse woody organic matter are placed on the bottom of the ditch, and fine organic matter (grass, hay, straw) is placed on top. And all this is generously watered or sprinkled to immediately populate the organic path of these beds with effective microorganisms - Emochki. The soil selected during the preparation of the ditch is placed nearby on feed beds (paths) up to 15 cm high, on which strawberries will be planted. And the rest of the earth is on lawn paths, on which lawn grasses will be sown immediately after compacting the earth by trampling. In this way, the remains of plants that previously grew on the site of such a bed and were previously cut off with a hoe or other method are covered with earth and muffled. In the case when rhizomatous weeds, such as, for example, wheatgrass or other similar grasses, grow on the site, they are first removed or suppressed using simple agrotechnical methods, depending on the time of year and their quantity (but this is a separate topic and will be discussed in another once). And all this cut grass will serve as mulch when filling the ditch of the strawberry bed.

Strawberry beds are refilled at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn with small tree branches, organic matter, leaves from above - to the level of the ridges, and sprinkled. To prevent the beds from the larvae of cockchafers, wireworms and other earthen pests, this organic matter is watered. This will make it possible, at the end of summer or early autumn, to create an optimal regime of moisture and nutrition for the strawberry bushes so that they can develop well the fruit buds, which are laid at this time, and on the development of which the next year’s harvest largely depends. And in the spring (April-May), the bed is replenished with small tree branches and freshly cut grass using the technology of preparing EM-mulch.

For this, EM silage, which began to ferment in a barrel (50 l) as a result of a week-long infusion of a variety of freshly cut grass, thin tree branches finely chopped with pruners along with leaves, (0.5 l) and molasses (0.5 l) or the same amount of old jam, spread in an organic path over the mulch that was laid there in the fall, and watered with EM infusion - aqueous solution, which remained in the barrel after selecting EM-silage from it, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 - 1:20, after which all this is covered with the same tree branches along with leaves, freshly cut grass, hay or other organic matter to the level of the ridges or even higher - to the level of plant leaves. And if there is straw available, then it is advisable to cover the whole thing on top with this straw. If necessary, in the summer, this replenishment of organic matter in the beds should also be repeated. But without adding EM silo there, since we introduced Effective Microorganisms in the spring and in such favorable conditions they already live and reproduce there.

In this case, one thing should be noted important detail: this last year’s organic matter, after you put EM-silage on it and watered it with EM-infusion, must be covered on top with mulch from tree branches, grass, hay, straw. The goal is to cover and protect microorganisms from the sun, reduce the weathering of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, and also to continue, extend over time, the decay of organic matter in the organic path, to prevent it all from quickly decomposing. Because then only all of last year’s organic matter will decompose quickly under the influence of the beneficial microorganisms and nutrients you introduced there in this EM-silage and EM-infusion, and the rest of it will decompose more slowly - the top part, with freshly laid fresh mulch, where these microorganisms are absent. But there are enough nutrients, including gaseous ones - carbon dioxide and ammonia nitrogen, in the center of such beds with a drainage channel to fully provide the plants with them, since their loss from such a ditch into the atmosphere is minimal and they are immediately almost completely absorbed by the plants that grow nearby on food beds, through their root system.

Two-row care of strawberry bushes.

The feeding paths themselves are planted with strawberry seedlings in two rows with a distance between them of 20-25 cm and the plants are placed in a row at a distance of 20 cm - thickened plantings. This is in order to motivate plants to produce as many high-quality fruits as possible (according to I. Ovsinsky’s system). If the roots of the seedlings are long, they are shortened so that they can fit freely when planted in the holes without their ends being bent upward. Because otherwise, the growth of roots, and, accordingly, the growth of plants, will be inhibited. Then, these roots of the seedlings should be dipped into a clay mash and the seedlings are planted in holes, which, as a rule, are formed by a peg 8-10 cm deep and watered with or sprinkled with water. It is important not to cover the apical bud with soil when planting and to ensure that the roots are not exposed. And after planting, especially in summer, lightly cover (shade) the planted plants with mulch (hay, straw) taken from the organic path to help the plants retain these few seedling leaves and prevent them from dying (withering) under the scorching summer sun. After all, it is these leaves that form fruit buds in the fall - next year’s harvest. And a few days later, after the seedlings have taken root, return this mulch back to the organic path and check the survival rate of the plants. In places where they have not taken root, plant new ones. And also at the same time free the cores of deeply planted plants from the soil. Because if this is not done in a timely manner, the plants whose cores were sprinkled with earth may die or will develop very slowly throughout the growing season. Then it is advisable to water these holes with the seedlings planted in them with the same diluted EM infusion. All this will allow you to immediately introduce not only nutrients into the root zone of strawberry plants, but also populate it with effective microorganisms. As a result, strawberries take root well and still have time to form well-developed fruit buds in the fall. And if there are few seedlings, then first they are planted in one row, and then a second row is formed next to the first row by rooting rosettes that grow on the strawberry tendrils.

The root system of strawberries is short-lived, and the aging of its tap roots begins in the second year of life, and their partial death occurs already in the third year. In this regard, strawberries produce high yields in the second or third year after planting seedlings, as well as from the first rooted rosettes on the tendrils of the mother bushes. Starting from the fourth year, the productivity of strawberry bushes decreases. And in the fifth year, the plants sharply reduce their yield due to the death of the lower part of the rhizome and main roots. Therefore, keeping strawberry bushes in such beds is more three years inappropriate.

It is for this reason that in subsequent years these strawberry bushes, one by one, each row in a year, immediately after fruiting, will be completely cut out at the root. And will be used as mulch. And after that, during the summer, in these narrow (up to 20 cm) strips of the row, the strawberries will again populate there themselves with rooted rosettes of tendrils that will grow from the bushes of the neighboring row - this is a natural way of its propagation. We will only need to shorten these strawberry mustaches to the first rosette from the mother bush and lightly sprinkle them with damp soil, or pin them in the place where they should grow (every 20 cm in the adjacent row), and also remove all other unnecessary mustaches.

Therefore, the schedule for caring for strawberry bushes with this two-row method in subsequent years will be as follows:

1 year

Cutting at the root of all strawberry bushes in the first row;

Population of the first row harvested after fruiting with strawberry plants by sprouting its mustaches shortened to the first rosette from the adjacent second row;

Removing all excess tendrils on the second row of strawberry bushes.

2 year– harvesting from the bushes of the first and second rows of strawberries;

Cutting at the root of all strawberry bushes in the second row;

Population of the second row, harvested after fruiting, with strawberry plants by germinating its tendrils shortened to the first rosette from the adjacent first row;

Removing all excess tendrils on the first row of strawberry bushes.

In fact, with this two-row method of caring for strawberries in these beds, we will need to get from each bush only one best tendril with one rosette on it for its rooting and germination in the adjacent row. Since other mustaches that will grow are not needed, and they will be cut out in time, this will allow you to get very strong and well-developed daughter plants, since all the energy of the mother strawberry bush in this case will be directed through this tendril to the strengthening and development of this one and only daughter plant. And strawberry bushes grow in such beds for only three years: in the first year of life, the plants take root in the summer from rosettes in the place freed from plants that have already bear fruit and form fruit buds in the fall. They bear fruit in the next two years. And in the third year, immediately after fruiting, they are removed.

And it is strawberries with this method of care that give high yields with the largest fruits with minimal labor costs. Because here it is grown in separate bushes, which are also bushes of the first order from the mother plants. In addition, if when growing strawberries in ordinary beds, every 5-6 years you have to change its planting location due to the fact that it “degenerates” due to diseases, pests, depletion of the soil under it, as well as the presence in such plantings of a significant amount of old bushes with a dead root system, then with this two-row method of care there is no such phenomenon, since there are no diseases or pests on such young, healthy two- to three-year-old plants. More precisely, they may even exist, but in very small quantities, and therefore they will not cause any significant harm to the strawberry bushes. The land under the mulch, improved by us adding EM-silage with, on the contrary, improves every year - becomes more fertile. Therefore, strawberries in such beds can always grow in one place and without any problems.

Since there are no weeds in such beds, there is simply nowhere for them to grow, caring for the plants here comes down to using a flat cutter to loosen and thin out these two rows of strawberries several times during the summer, preventing them from thickening, and also removing excess strawberry tendrils. And, of course, replenish organic paths with mulch.

Strawberry carpet culture.

I would like to note that in addition to the above-described two-row method of caring for strawberries in such beds, you can use the so-called carpet culture method. This is when, after planting seedlings in one or two rows (depending on their quantity), these rows are then thickened with daughter plants by rooting rosettes, forming fruit stripes. In subsequent years, we will only need to periodically thin out these completely overgrown strips, avoiding their excessive thickening, and also remove old perennials, looking for them among the young daughters. And get full strawberry harvests. Although not as high as with the two-row method of care. Because the daughter plants grown in such a bed will no longer be plants of only the first order from the mother ones. They will be of the second, or even third order. And this in itself reduces their productivity, not to mention that this will be affected by their excessive thickening, as well as the presence of old plants among them that have already exhausted their fruit-bearing resource.

So, depending on our needs and capabilities, we can choose for ourselves the best of these two named care options or even combine them to a certain extent. For example, just as with the two-row method of care, cut out one by one every year after fruiting the longitudinal half of the bushes in these fruiting strips and then populate the strawberry bushes there by rooting rosettes.

Still, it is simpler and easier to plant remontant varieties of strawberries in such beds, which are propagated by dividing the bushes, since they have no tendrils at all. Although, as a rule, in such beds even remontant varieties form mustaches, although not in such large quantities as ordinary varieties. But these tendrils are quite enough so that with their help you can periodically populate these two rows of strawberries, as well as obtain high-quality seedlings.

Caring for planted seedlings.

Since such beds have enough moisture and nutrients throughout the entire season, you can always form them and plant strawberry seedlings on them at all times of the year. Just to ensure that the seedlings take root well, you need to choose a time when there is light rain or cloudy weather. But when there may not be such rainy weather, especially in summer (the most favorable time for planting seedlings), then the planted strawberry plants, as mentioned above, are covered with mulch, which will need to be lightly watered with water from a watering can for several days, which will allow the soil to and keep the plants under the mulch always moist.

And in the case when it is not possible to cover the seedlings after planting them with mulch, then in order to preserve these seedling leaves, short-term artificial irrigation should be used for 1-2 days using the sprinkling method. Even several times a day to keep the soil and the seedlings on it moist at this time until the seedlings take root. Then, in such conditions, strawberries take root here well and form very large and strong bushes. And the next season it already produces a good harvest.

It should be noted that the seedlings that are planted in the spring are already one year old, because they grew last summer. In addition, these strawberries planted in the spring, even in the second year of their life, do not yet bear fruit, since after planting they have to remove all flower stalks so that the bushes can develop better and not be depleted by premature fruiting. And these plants begin to bear fruit only when next year- in the third year of his life. In fact, in this case, they only bear fruit fully for one season. And after fruiting, this row of already old bushes will need to be removed. For in the fourth year of life, as mentioned above, the productivity of such bushes decreases due to the death of the roots. Therefore, it is best to plant strawberries in the second half of summer or early autumn with seedlings from those young plants that have just grown from rooted rosettes, observing all the requirements for caring for them.

In addition, such a well-mulched bed does not freeze in winter, and by spring the plant roots have time to develop well in it. Thus, a strawberry bed, which was formed and planted in January, when there was still no snow, and groomed in the spring using EM-mulch technology, was able to produce a harvest that was not much different from that produced by strawberry bushes that were not replanted at all. ordinary beds, not to mention the fact that in the spring the plants here develop faster and give early harvests, or even very early ones, since the bed can be easily covered in the spring with film or agrofibre using wooden or metal arches.

The proposed technology for growing strawberries in warm beds makes it possible to obtain high yields of environmentally friendly products without special costs labor, because here you will never need to apply any mineral or organic fertilizers, and there is also no need for watering and digging the earth. Moreover, the berries in such beds will always be clean, since there is no open bare soil here at all, and they, as a rule, are always larger in size than in ordinary beds.

Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich,
Organic Farming Club,
Ternopil

1) WARM BEDS OF ROZUM VLADIMIR NIKITOVICH. ABOUT THE AUTHOR AND IDEA

And the warm beds of V.N. Rozum became another development of his own skills and abilities. The master was given the idea by abandoned vegetable gardens, unkempt lands, and infertile soils. The result is high productivity, complete naturalness of products, and minimal labor costs.

2) WARM ROZUM BEDS. 4 REASONS TO INCREASE THE FERTILITY OF YOUR LANDS

3) BASICS OF ORGANIC FARMING IN WARM BEDS BY V. N. ROZUM

Edge effect.

Use of mycorrhiza.

Mixed plantings.
Principles of allelopathy.
EM technology.

4)WARM BEDS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS: STEP-BY-STEP MANUFACTURING INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1: Marking the beds. Width - 1.2 meters, length - arbitrary. On both sides there are paths (up to 0.6 meters).
A nuance: the Rozum bed is created on a prepared (!) site. If it is heavy soil under weeds, we will prepare it by fluffing up the soil and removing the weeds. Then we begin to create a special bed.
Step 2: Create a wedge-shaped recess (groove) (depth - 25 cm) in the center of the bed. To do this, you can use a hoe or a Fokin flat cutter. We place organic components into the groove: branches cut from fruit trees, grass, straw, last year's leaves. We compact it a little.
Step 3: Using EM technology. We water the organic matter placed in the groove of the bed with EM-A solution in accordance with the instructions to reproduce beneficial microorganisms and colonize the substrate with them.

How to make beds according to Mittlider

And finally, the most important step is the regular application of mineral fertilizers to the soil. Before planting, light soils are saturated with calcium and boron at the rate of 100 g per 1 linear meter, and for heavy soils this rate is doubled. Then every 7-10 days the ridges are fertilized with a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and molybdenum (60 g per 1 linear meter). Mineral substances are scattered dry between the rows, after which the ridges are thoroughly and abundantly watered.

Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider

Lyadov's beds

Lyadov's beds (as the author himself admits) were the result of a reworking of Mittlider's ideas. True, in the process they changed so much that the resemblance to the “progenitor” is not striking. They will be an excellent option for those who have a damp area that is regularly flooded in the spring, or an area with close groundwater.

How to make beds according to Lyadov

Lyadov uses mainly organic fertilizers (infusions of herbs, humus, manure and droppings). True, if plants lack one or another mineral, one should not abandon the targeted use of special products.

Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov

To understand whether such beds are right for you, it is better to make 1-2 small ones first and check how the plants feel in them and whether it makes sense to put together boxes for all crops.

How to make beds according to Rozum

Pros and cons of beds according to Rozum

How to make beds according to Kurdyumov

If there are no quality boards at hand, you can build boxes from slabs, slate, galvanized metal, etc.

Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov

What are Rozuma intensive beds and how do they differ from ordinary beds?

Rozum's beds are special beds, the functionality of which is aimed at helping nature naturally produce the quantity and quality of the harvest that it can and wants to give, without regard to additional accompanying conditions. As additional conditions, we mean not only the condition of the soil, which is far from ideal for the birth of a bountiful harvest, but also the “usual” care that usually surrounds any garden bed - endless weeding, watering, fertilizing.

The bed “lives” for about 6 years, and you don’t need to do anything with it, just add organic matter annually. And only after these years the bed will have to be completely renewed, because... It is during these years that the lowest layer of branches will already rot and cease to perform its functions.
Rozum's intensive beds are suitable for developing virgin lands or for land that has not been cultivated for a long time; they are laid directly on the turf. They “develop” the soil well and do not require excessive effort. Excellent for rocky, poor soils. Such beds enrich the soil with nutrients.
Do not require watering: never, none. The system for constructing these beds is aimed at “self-sufficiency” in terms of moisture. Thus, plants in such a bed are not afraid of drought. This is especially important in gardens where there is no water supply (rain-fed farming).
Environmental friendliness. Rosum's beds are not fed with any fertilizers other than natural organic matter. This allows you to grow not only an environmentally friendly product, but also avoid the cost of the same fertilizers.

How does Rosum's bed work?

How does such a bed work? And it works so effectively that it increases crop yields on poor soils and saturates them with essential nutrients? How is this achieved?

As for nutrients, this is the concern of the organic layer. Not only does it provide fertilizer, but it also releases carbon dioxide, which is a powerful nutrient for crops.

Stages of how to make a Rosum bed

Construction consists of several stages:

In principle, any crops can be planted near the Rozum bed, but, judging by the feedback from practitioners, it is better to plant vegetables that require hilling in the first year - this will help deepen the groove, which will have a beneficial effect on further plantings. In the second year, it is best to plant zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, cucumbers/tomatoes. If you haven’t renewed the organic layer this year, then the bed will serve perfectly for crops that are not very demanding on nutrients - these could be, for example, peas or any greens.

Well, of course, the beds can be adapted for planting any crops. This is exactly what V. Rozum is doing in the Rosichi ecovillage - together they are creating a permaculture eco-garden:

Further care of the beds is usual (from the point of view of organic farming), these are compacted mixed plantings, green manuring, and replenishment of organic matter. The most successful time for planting is autumn, since over the winter the ridges will settle, and the organic matter will “catch” and begin to ferment. Here’s some more visual material on how Rozum’s garden bed is arranged, a video from the charming Valeria Zashchitina:

Warm beds of Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich. About the author and idea

Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich is the developer of the technology for his own warm beds, a professional gardener for whom organic farming is not just empty words. Construction of reservoirs on own plot, building greenhouses, competent cultivation of the land using simple tools, the use of green manure and organic fertilizers, increasing the productivity of fruit trees, shrubs, vegetables of “all ranks” - this is a small part of the works of V. N. Rozum.

A warm beds of Rozum V.N. became another development of their own skills and abilities. The master was given the idea by abandoned vegetable gardens, unkempt lands, and infertile soils. The result is high productivity, complete naturalness of products, and minimal labor costs.

Warm beds of Rosum. 4 reasons to increase the fertility of your land

Today the warm beds of Rozum V.N. in demand by those who practice organic farming. Because it:

Possibility of using infertile lands, areas where only weeds have grown for many years. Special technology allows you to renew all the natural forces of the soil in two seasons. At the same time, growing crops is possible in school gardens and other public places.
High yield. Regardless of the variety of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers or berry culture the yield increases by 30-55%.
Minimum labor costs. All you need to do is create a garden bed. Once and, practically, forever. After that, just enjoy the harvest or abundant flowering favorite flowers.
Created for any season. Of course, the bed will show excellent results in the spring and summer months, but even on the eve of winter frosts you can create it: during the winter the “strength” of the earth will be restored naturally.

Basics of organic farming in warm beds by V. N. Rozum

What else is attractive about Rosum’s warm beds for a gardener? Because each of them contains a storehouse of knowledge and wisdom of organic farming. Basic principles for creating a warm bed (according to Rozum):

Flat-cut minimal tillage (using a Fokin flat cutter or hoe).
Mulching and composting.
Growing plants in conditions of insufficient sunlight.
Edge effect.
Thickening of plantings according to Ovsinsky.
An important factor for achieving maximum effect from garden beds is natural technology is the use of mycorrhiza.
Protection of plants from diseases and pests.
Mixed plantings.
Principles of allelopathy.
EM technology.

Do-it-yourself warm beds: step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Warm beds of Rozum V.N. on your site are not only an effective result for growing crops, but also a harmonious aesthetic component. Create warm beds with your own hands, step by step production attached!

The general structure of the Rozuma warm bed has the following structure:

Center - organic components (50-60 cm).
On both sides of the center, feed beds are created (on which the necessary crops will be grown, width - 30-35 cm).
On the sides of the food beds there are lawn paths (60 cm).

The result is the following (when repeating the beds): lawn path - food bed - center with organic components (organic "path") - food bed - lawn path, etc.

Step 2: Creating a wedge-shaped recess (groove) (depth - 25 cm) in the center of the bed. To do this, you can use a hoe or a Fokin flat cutter. We place organic components into the groove: branches cut from fruit trees, grass, straw, last year's leaves. We compact it a little.

Step 3: Using EM technology. We water the organic matter placed in the groove of the bed with EM-A solution in accordance with the instructions to reproduce beneficial microorganisms and colonize the substrate with them.

From the school curriculum: organic substances will become “food” for microorganisms with the help of EM-A. They will release carbon dioxide, which will feed the garden crops grown in the forage beds. Mulch will help retain moisture and sufficient heat.

To protect against the Colorado potato beetle and other insect larvae, we use a working solution of the drug "Metarizin".

Step 5: We plant desired crops in the food beds. This occurs on either side of the center with organic matter, on a slightly elevated surface. In the first year of creating the beds, we plant them with those crops that require hilling. This structure of the feeding bed will allow the groove to deepen and become as nutritious as possible for the crops being grown.

When planting, it is advisable to treat the plants with a mycorrhizal preparation. You can read more about it here.

Step 6: We sow lawn paths. Oats, wheat, clover, alfalfa or other crops will be used as mulch for both the central part of the bed and for the plants. During the season we mow as they grow. During particularly dry periods, water moderately with the addition of EMochets.

Step 7: In late autumn, after collecting the last harvest from the food beds, we trim the plants with a flat cutter or scythe and place them in an organic groove. Sprinkle with a little earth. We sow green manure. We water with EM-A. The bed is ready for winter.

Step 8: In the spring, as soon as the snow has melted, we sow the organic ditch with green manure. Without preparing the soil, we begin planting plants in the food beds and at the same time sow the lawn path.

First results

The season has passed, now we bring to your attention the first results of using Rosum beds in different areas in the vicinity of Taganrog.

Trofim Korneev lives in Beglitsa, a village 50 km from the city. This is his first independent experience of gardening. He could devote minimal time to his beds due to his busy schedule. Nevertheless, the result is very good for a start.

Olga Kotova recently moved with her family to our region from the middle zone. These are also their first steps in unusual conditions.

4 beds and 8 ridges were formed. This is what they looked like around the end of June.

Conclusions after a season of using Rosum beds

The pepper felt great.

It bore fruit abundantly until the very frosts, until it froze. Next to the pepper, carrots grew on the same ridge.

There was also physalis in the beds, and the difference with the physalis growing in a regular bed was significant. In the garden bed it spread along the ground, there was not enough moisture, and I rarely had time to water it, but on Rozum it grew as tall bushes. But I won’t plant it on Rozum anymore - it’s inconvenient, the bushes hang down into the passage. There were also squash, which also overgrown with burdocks and were getting in the way; I will plant them in other places.

Rosum's beds - personal experience

And finally, my personal experience with Rosum beds.

I laid out the beds at the end of May. According to our weather, it was very late, but it was not too early at all - the peak of the spring season in the Center.

On the beds grew: beets, dill, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, basil. A whole row with adjacent strips (2.1 m) was allocated individually for squash and zucchini, taking into account their size. All season, once a week, all plants received foliar feeding with our traditional bio-cocktail (“Healthy Garden” + “Ecoberin” + EM1).

My own conclusions in my particular case are:

Rozum's beds have proven themselves excellent on my site,
I should pack the ditches more densely at the beginning of the season and use more coarse organic matter (branches up to 2 cm in diameter) in the middle part of the ditches (I am already harvesting),
Zucchini, cabbage and other “large-sized” plants should be planted exclusively along the border of the plot with beds. In my case, they didn’t have enough of a strip more than two meters wide (80 + 50 + 80 cm).

LET'S SUM UP THE GENERAL RESULTS:

Rozum's beds are irreplaceable where it is not possible to pay much attention to planting. The time and labor spent on their construction pays off many times over during their use.
The beds really uninterruptedly provide moisture to all crops. Usually, belatedly planted root crops (end of May - June) do not grow at all. Here, beets, carrots, and parsnips felt great all season.
Due to the dense standing of plants and their powerful development, the root-inhabited soil layer is reliably protected from our harsh sun, does not overheat and does not dry out.
In Rozum's beds, the usual phenomena caused by overheating are not observed: color fading on peppers, tomatoes and eggplants, blossom end rot, increased calcium deposition in fruits, which makes them tasteless and inedible.

Next season I want to partially plant fruit bushes in the beds - raspberries, currants, as well as garden strawberries. Very interesting: what will come of this?

Making a warm Rosum bed in 12 steps

How to do something yourself, with your own hands - home craftsman website

Rosum's beds - how to make

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Rosum's beds - reviews and description of technology

First results

TOOLS FOR HOME AND GARDEN, HANDCRAFTS, ETC. PRICES VERY LOW

Conclusions after a season of using Rosum beds

Rosum's beds - personal experience

LET'S SUM UP THE GENERAL RESULTS:

HOW TO MAKE ROSUM BEDS?

Rozum's beds: how to make and what are the advantages?

Rozuma's warm bed: what is the difference from a regular warm bed?

Rosum beds: application options

1. Rozuma’s bed: we make it from an ordinary bed

How to make a Rosuma bed

2. Rozum’s bed on the raspberry field

Organic Rosuma beds for gardening

What are Rozuma intensive beds and how do they differ from ordinary beds?

How does Rosum's bed work?

Stages of how to make a Rosum bed

Vladimir Rozum's garden bed: our experience

Rosum's Eternal Bed

How to make beds according to Mittlider

Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider

Lyadov's beds

How to make beds according to Lyadov

Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov

Rosum's beds

How to make beds according to Rozum

Pros and cons of beds according to Rozum

Kurdyumov's beds

How to make beds according to Kurdyumov

Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov

How to make beds according to Mittlider

Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider

Lyadov's beds

How to make beds according to Lyadov

Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov

How to make beds according to Rozum

Pros and cons of beds according to Rozum

How to make beds according to Kurdyumov

Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov

What are Rozuma intensive beds and how do they differ from ordinary beds?

How does Rosum's bed work?

Stages of how to make a Rosum bed

Warm beds of Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich. About the author and idea

Warm beds of Rosum. 4 reasons to increase the fertility of your land

Basics of organic farming in warm beds by V. N. Rozum

Do-it-yourself warm beds: step-by-step manufacturing instructions

First results

Conclusions after a season of using Rosum beds

Rosum's beds - personal experience

LET'S SUM UP THE GENERAL RESULTS:

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