Restoring a table at home. How to make a new piece of furniture from an old “boring” kitchen table

Probably, many people have an old rare table somewhere in a closet or attic that they don’t dare throw away. In this article we will try to convince you not to throw it away, but to give it a new life. Moreover, this is relevant in our time, when there is sheer high prices all around. You can do a table repair yourself much cheaper and get an exclusive designer item that will surprise everyone you know when you look at it.

Furniture restoration is a rather exciting process and, if desired, anyone can try it.

We will describe the restoration of the table to you using the example of a small table, which you see in the photo above.

Before the beginning repair work You need to stock up on the following tools and materials:

Hammer
Screwdriver
Pliers
Sandpaper different types graininess;
Brushes;
Varnish or paint;
Impregnation for wood;
Wood putty;
Rubber spatula;
Wood glue or PVA glue;
Veneer.

Stages of restoration

Inspection

We inspect the table and determine what defects are present on the product. It can be:

scratches and dents,
erased varnish,
damaged legs that wobble.

If the legs are very wobbly, it is better to disassemble the table and carry out further restoration in disassembled form.

Grinding

The purpose of this process is to remove old paintwork and prepare the table for subsequent refining.

For sanding we need sandpaper. We begin to sand the product with coarse sandpaper, moving in a circular motion over the entire table: along the tabletop, legs and drawstring belt.

When sanding, it is important not to overdo it and not sand into holes.

After sanding, be sure to clean the product from dust.

Impregnation, restoration of countertops

If the table is made of natural wood, it is better to treat it with a special impregnation that will protect it from pests and diseases.

Leave the parts to dry for a while. Next we cover all the cracks with putty. Putty after completely dry sand again with fine sandpaper

If the table is made of chipboard, you need to inspect the tabletop and determine whether there are bubbles on the surface. If there is, then the veneer is peeling off.

Such a defect can be corrected by making an incision on the surface of the bubble with a thin knife. After this, you need to apply glue into the hole with a syringe. Next, take a regular iron and iron the surface of the table until the veneer sticks.

If the veneer on the edges of the tabletop has chipped, we can cut a patch from a new piece of veneer, apply glue to it, apply it to the damaged part and iron it again.

Painting

Let's start painting. We take paint or varnish, depending on your taste, brush and paint. You may need to paint in two or three layers.

This is determined during the course of restoration work, depending on what appearance we want to receive. Let the paint dry well.

Table assembly

When all the parts have dried well, we begin assembling the product.

To prevent the legs from wobbling, when installing them into the grooves, we insert thin pieces of veneer or matches along with the legs. The legs with a tsar belt are assembled using glue.

We leave the assembled furniture until the glue has completely dried and the parts have set.

It may be that the old table is solid, does not wobble and the legs do not need repair. Then it is better to carry out all stages of restoration in assembled form. There is no point in disassembling it.

So we looked at the main stages of restoration wooden table. We wish you to try to make the repair yourself and be satisfied with the result.

There is a category of citizens who do not tolerate old things in the house and immediately get rid of them as soon as they find a replacement. This primarily applies to furniture that requires space. But there are not many of them; as a rule, a completely serviceable table or chairs are taken to the dacha - maybe they will come in handy.

This “maybe” is completely justified today, because old pieces of furniture have come into fashion. Not even antiques, which have always been in demand, but simply things with history. It is better if the wear and tear is noticeable immediately, but if it is not, then the furniture is artificially aged - there are special techniques.

A Soviet-made desk, a single-pedestal desk, at one time could be seen in every family that had schoolchildren - it was a standard home workplace. And in production, they were in the plant management, shop engineers, planners and accountants.

In short, in many dachas there are compact old people dozing, still strong, but already out of print. Meanwhile, with a minimum of effort they can be given a fashionable look to furniture in the Provence style.

We will need:

the hero of the plot is a single-pedestal desk;
grinder and grinding disc;
file;
polyurethane moldings;
corner relief block, which is used for construction work;
miter box device for carpentry work;
brown primer;
façade paint, matte white;
ceramic furniture handles.

How to remake a table from the “ugly duckling” to Provençal style

1. Let's free the table surface from the layer of old varnish. It holds tightly, only a grinder can handle it if you install a grinding disc.

2. After this surgery The chipboard from which the table is made is covered with irregularities. This is where a primer comes in handy, and you will have to cover the surface with it twice.

3. To make the table more interesting, you can use different methods. For example, completely replace the tabletop with a wooden one, in modern style. But it’s not that simple, and it may not work out. It is to complicate the shape of the table that a relief corner beam is provided; we simply attach it to the existing tabletop. And it will immediately become noticeable that the table has acquired a less primitive appearance.

4. Now we need to work on the boxes, because from prolonged inactivity they have lost their former ease of movement. Moldings are put into use here.

5. Now the old table looks quite good, all that remains is to paint it. To make it fit better into the chosen style, we use not traditional enamel, but facade paint. And we’ll take a brush with hard bristles so that traces of strokes are visible, because carelessness is in fashion today. In order to give the table an aged look, we will paint a thin layer only once. Then, in some places, bald spots will form, through which the soil will be visible.

What paint to paint the table

If you work with enamel, then before applying it you need to rub the surface with a candle. The paint will lie unevenly, which is what was required to be achieved. And in order to deprive it of its ceremonial shine, you will have to walk over the painted surface with sandpaper. But to get closer to the effect of Provencal furniture, it’s still better to work with facade paint.

Everyone has dreamed of discovering artistic talent at least once in their life and trying themselves as a restorer or decorator. Restoring a table is a unique opportunity to combine business with pleasure. Firstly, this good way saving on buying new furniture, and secondly, restoring an old table with your own hands is doubly pleasant. It is noteworthy that restoration technology is available to everyone, even non-professionals. The result is an exclusive product that has no analogues. How to restore and transform an old kitchen table? What to cover wooden table top? Tips, recommendations, photos, as well as unique new master class restoration from designers will help you make a real masterpiece from an outdated piece of furniture.

Furniture restoration is a very exciting process in itself, and with the right approach it is also very useful, allowing you to significantly save on purchasing new furniture

Update methods

How to update your kitchen countertops with your own hands? What are wood countertops in the kitchen covered with? Beginners have many questions and, as a result, difficulties in the restoration process, which plunge them into a stupor. Of course, any alteration and restoration kitchen furniture may ultimately lead to a result that is not originally planned. However, here you should remember that it’s never too late to get rid of your old table and buy a new one, but it’s still worth a try.

Make a restoration kitchen table you can do it yourself or update it in the following ways.

Painting through tulle involves painting the product with paint according to the stencil principle. To do this, the fabric is spread on the table in such a way that there are no tubercles. Next, you need to paint the entire surface using spray paint and let it dry, then remove the tulle. As a result, a beautiful lace pattern is formed on the table.
Remaking a table may involve restoration using ceramic tiles. This coating is not only attractive, but also practical, since it can withstand various types of influences. These can be whole blocks or multi-colored fragments in the form of a mosaic. If there are no tiles, glass shards can be used as restoration material.
You can update an old table using self-adhesive film. Modern manufacturers offer inexpensive models with original drawings. For restoration, it is enough to paste over the surfaces of the product - and it will be transformed before your eyes.
If the table is made of solid wood, you can use the burning technique as an idea for restoration, but this requires certain work skills, as well as special equipment in the form of an electric burner.
Decoupage is a very fashionable way to transform furniture and give it a completely different look. This does not require special artistic skills, because the basis is taken finished photos on paper or a napkin that is attached to the table.

Product restoration

Restoring a tabletop involves returning it to its original appearance without visible changes in design. Many private craftsmen and companies offer their restoration services, but due to the high cost, this option is not available to everyone. The restoration process is long and painstaking, however, if you want to update the kitchen table with your own hands, you can do it at home. Before repairing the countertop, you need to prepare the following materials:

glasses, respirator, gloves;
sanding machine or coarse and fine grain sandpaper;
art or paint brush, roller;
impregnation and putty for wood;
wood glue, liquid nails;
acrylic or alkyd paint, stain, countertop varnish or wax;
antiseptic and primer.

When necessary tools at hand, you can get to work.

Preliminary repair

Before covering a wooden tabletop, you should pay attention to the underframe and general state table: are the legs loose, are some parts missing? New life Repairing an old table begins first of all with eliminating these defects, since the functional component is important for any furniture. It must be disassembled, the old coating removed from each part, sanded and reassembled, fixed with glue or liquid nails. Many restorers insist that the integrity of the table should not be damaged, as it will quickly become unusable.

Here, each case is individual. For flimsy structures, assembly can really be disastrous. A hammer drill may destroy the surface or cause chips. If the furniture is good quality and massive, then you should not be afraid of this. At correct assembly the product will become more durable and stable. After work, it is important to ventilate the room, since accumulated dust can subsequently settle on the kitchen table top. Dust adhering to the surface after painting will spoil the appearance, so spring-cleaning not prevent.

Primary processing

A wooden table, like chipboard countertops, requires mandatory impregnation with an antiseptic, which will protect against pests and fungi. This substance will not allow woodworms to attack the product in the future. After treatment, it is recommended to leave the table to dry for at least a day. Next, you need to remove the old coating using grinder. You can also use coarse-grit sandpaper at the beginning and fine-grit sandpaper at the end of sanding.

Kitchen countertop restoration

Before covering a wooden tabletop, you should carefully inspect the surface for damage and chips. Small cracks up to 3 mm are sealed with putty and then sanded again so that there are no tubercles. Large chips can be repaired using veneer. You must first make a stencil the right size. In order to make it correctly, you should cover the surface of the chipped part of the table with paint, then press it with paper. A clean place, untouched by paint, is the necessary stencil. Next, you need to cut the veneer along the contour and glue it to the surface with wood glue. Press the part tightly and leave to dry for 10–12 hours. How to cover the tabletop after cosmetic repairs? Alkyd or shellac primer for wood. This will ensure even paint coverage. The primer should be applied in 2 layers and wait until completely dry after each treatment. After this, the surface can be sanded again.

Painting tables

Now you can start painting directly. Since restoration requires restoration original form, you should choose the right shade. Modern manufacturers offer a wide range color palette, but it is not always possible to find an absolutely identical version that was used before restoration. You can purchase several types of paints, mix them and come up with desired color. How to cover a wooden tabletop so that it lasts for many more years? There are a lot of options here, but the most common is water-dispersed acrylic paint. It is non-toxic, dries quickly and is quite moisture resistant.

Using a brush, apply a thin layer, leave to dry, then apply a second coat and also let dry. For dark shades, it is recommended to repeat the procedure three times. If the table will be placed outside, care must be taken to protect the surface from moisture and precipitation. Alkyd paint is suitable here. Despite the pungent toxic odor, it is successfully used for exterior finishing. It is moisture resistant and is not afraid of direct sunlight. Most a budget option – Oil paint based on drying oil. This the material is suitable for table top restoration coffee tables, which are not actively subject to mechanical stress. Please note that after dyeing, the product will be ready for further processing after 3-4 days.

Protective covering

How to cover wooden countertops in the kitchen for long-term operation? Best matte polyurethane varnish on water based. He will provide reliable protection from external influences and damage. The varnish is applied in 2-3 layers in one direction, after each it is necessary to dry the surface for 4 hours and sand it. How to varnish a tabletop so that there are no waves? You need to wait until it dries completely and clean out small spots with sandpaper. May form at the cleaning site White spot, however, you should not be afraid of this, because after polishing the surface will become perfectly smooth.

The polish should be selected based on characteristics similar to the previous varnish. After the procedure, you can cover the countertop with wax. These are special wax sheets with a pleasant natural aroma. Before work, it should be softened (you can warm it up a little or leave it in the sun), and then rub it in in a circular motion using felt. This process is long and painstaking, but it should be given Special attention, because the quality of the coating determines the further service life and presentable appearance of the product.

There is another option for covering a wooden tabletop - this is regular wax, which is rubbed into the surface. cotton fabric. This polished table looks very stylish and elegant, but is more suitable for a living room than a kitchen.

This is how the long restoration process is carried out. A little patience, diligence and creativity creative approach– and the old piece of furniture will look like a photo from a glamor magazine.

And in conclusion, a video from detailed description process of restoration of a wooden tabletop.

Has old furniture lost its former luster? Tired of it, but would you mind throwing it away? All this can be fixed: you can improve the appearance so that no one will think that the furniture is many years old. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is painstaking work. But you don’t have to do anything super complicated. Some methods are so simple that anyone can do it (we're not talking about antiques, of course).

Restoration of wooden surfaces

No matter how carefully you handle the furniture, abrasions, scratches, and stains still appear. They are easy to eliminate. The main thing is to know how and with what.

Restoring polishing

Restoring a layer of varnish is a complicated matter. Any furniture restoration begins with cleaning and degreasing, and repairing the varnish coating too. We use detergent for dishes, diluted in water: safe and reliable. After drying, we proceed to refinishing the polish.

You can simply refresh the faded polish on furniture using mixtures you prepare yourself:

In two parts linseed oil and turpentine and part of vinegar. Mix everything, apply with a swab, wait until it is absorbed and polish.
Mix in equal parts oil and beer and wipe the furniture with this composition. After it has been absorbed, rub.
The surface will be more shiny if you boil beer with a piece of wax, cool it and apply it slightly warm to the furniture. When the composition is absorbed, the surface is rubbed until shiny.

A few more recipes in the video.

How to remove polish from furniture

Quite often you have to remove the polishing: it is not the most fashionable finish. Modern furniture Most often it is painted with opaque or tinting paints, and the surface is matte. In any case, the polish must be removed. There are several ways. Since varnishes come in different compositions, you have to select them experimentally. But one of the methods should work.

How to paint polished furniture

If old furniture was prepared for painting, it needs to be cleaned of dust, wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry. Then level everything with putty, smooth out all the unevenness, wait until it dries. Take sandpaper and sand again, first with medium, then with fine grain. Next, apply a layer of primer and wait for it to dry.

You buy a primer for the paint you are going to use, or you can dilute the paint with a compatible solvent and coat it instead of primer. After drying, you can paint.

You can paint with a roller or brush. Usually several layers are needed: do not try to apply a lot of paint at once, as drips may appear. It's better to apply several thin layers. This way the surface will be smooth and uniform. Another trick: for uniform coloring, layers are applied in different directions - along, then across. This also applies to applying varnish.

Some types of varnish are easier to work with when they are warm. They are heated a little and then applied with a spray gun or brush. When heating, you need to be careful: vapors may flare up.

In order of painting: paint first internal surfaces, edges and joints, then move on to the outside. With this sequence, there is less chance of getting dirty or touching an already painted surface, ruining it.

If the varnish coating is smooth, without defects, and it needs to be painted over, you can do without removing this layer. There are special primers for complex surfaces. Apply them to the surface and paint after drying. They have components that penetrate even the varnish layer. Therefore, the paint will apply well and last a long time. But such soils have a disadvantage: they are expensive. But they save significant time.

Some secrets of painting wood (including brushing and painting in two colors) are in the article ““. A few secrets for smooth application acrylic paint look in the video.

If the restoration does not bring the expected result, maybe you need to change the appearance? How

How to restore veneer

Veneered furniture requires a special approach. The means are basically the same, the methods are different. For example, if after getting hit the veneer is swollen, fill a disposable syringe with PVA glue, pierce the bubble, and inject glue into the cavity. Place a piece on top thick fabric and place the load. If the surface is uneven (convex or concave), use a thick fabric bag with heated sand as a load.

If the veneer is glued with alcohol glue, you can return the swollen part to its place by ironing it through a rag with a hot iron. But do not overheat the iron: the veneer may stretch. Heating level is medium.

If ironing with a dry cloth does not help, try repeating the operation with a damp cloth (wet it and wring it out well). There is a chance that the wood will swell and become more elastic. To reliably fix the swelling, you can introduce PVA there and then heat it with an iron.

If the swelling is cracked, you can also try to seal it with heating (through a rag). If it doesn’t work, tear off the peeled piece. You don’t cut it, but rather break it off: on veneer, breaks after restoration are less noticeable than cuts. Therefore, you break off the lagging piece. Remove the piece of veneer from the damaged area old glue(sandpaper or nail files - depending on size). Next, the repair of veneer on furniture is standard: spread it with PVA glue, lay it down, aligning the fault lines, lay a thick fabric on top and place a weight until it dries.

Scratches and traces of restoration on veneer are removed in the same way as on wood: they are painted over with a furniture marker of a suitable shade. If the scratch is deep, a little melted furniture restoration wax is applied to it (with a spatula). After drying, the wax is ground, and if necessary, fine-grain sandpaper is used, but after this treatment, the restored piece is covered with a layer of varnish.

Do-it-yourself furniture restoration requires patience and accuracy. You have to act gradually and methodically: smear it, wait for it to dry, level it, smear it again, etc. Sometimes you have to try several methods: damage varies, as do the materials used in production (glue, varnish, etc.). But as a result, the furniture will look much better.

Old table, loose and shriveled, and what’s more, creaky, like an ungreased cart, and your hands are itching to throw it in the fire or in a landfill. But if you work on it a little, you can get a very good furniture accessory, like coffee table(if you shorten the legs to a certain length), or a table for a TV. In my barn there was an ordinary kitchen table lying on a shelf, forgotten by everyone. In disassembled condition. Four bolted legs, a wooden base held together with metal brackets, and three tabletop pieces.

After examining this rarity, I initially decided to throw it in the trash car; from lying for a long time, the fragments of the tabletop made of chipboard swollen under the influence of moisture, and after drying, of course, they did not return to their original shape. Moreover, they became brittle and the sawdust, from which they were actually made, began to fall out...

The wooden base, on the contrary, had dried out to the point that it was shaking, as if alive, as soon as you picked it up! After thinking a little, I finally decided to try to “reanimate” him. One way or another, I won’t lose much if I fail.

Will need

Hacksaw.
Gas wrench or pliers.
Universal glue (you can use “Moment”).
Composite adhesive (cold welding).
Cyan acrylate glue (super glue).
Marker.
Drill and drill bits for 4 and 9.
Long ruler (or level with ruler markings).
Four thick hexagon furniture screws.
Small chipboard sheet for a new countertop.
Decorative self-adhesive film for covering the tabletop (with a pattern of your choice).

Restoring an old table

First you need to disassemble wooden base. Unscrew all existing screws and remove metal brackets.

Our table will be half the size of the previous one, which means those crossbars that used to be the width of the table will now become its length.

You can choose the width of the new table yourself, to suit your taste. You can even make it square! To do this, take the remaining long crossbars and shorten them to the desired width of the future table.

Just make sure that the width of the future table is at least half its length, otherwise it will be unstable! Now, on the sawn-off ends of the crossbars, we will use a hacksaw to make grooves for the metal staples, as before.

Next, we will deal with the holes left by the screws after disassembling the table. Most of these holes will again be in their original places, and to ensure that the screws holding the metal brackets hold them well, we will use matches and universal glue. Dip a match into glue (or drop glue into the hole), push it all the way into the hole, and break it off.

The result was a kind of cap. Now the screw will hold well in this hole, and the table will not wobble. Well, to prevent the “new” table from creaking, drop a drop of machine oil onto the contact points of all individual table fragments, both wooden and metal. Now let's take care of the legs. If these legs get twisted threaded connection, it is advisable to unscrew it from the leg. Coat the thread with composite or universal glue and screw it back in.

All the way. If the connection dangles, but does not unscrew (it also happens when a threaded pin has a “T”-shaped end inside the leg), then you will have to use cyanoacrylate ( super glue). We drip it into the gap between the joint and the wood until it stops going inside. Leave the glued legs to dry. For a couple of hours so that the composite glue has time to set. (By the way, the legs can also be shortened to the height you need, planed with a plane, narrowed downward if they are square, and covered with stain.) During this time, you can assemble the wooden base; We fasten the prepared crossbars using staples and screws.

After the time allotted for the composite glue to harden, we screw the legs to the base. As before to the old table.

Now we take a prepared sheet of chipboard (I took the end wall from an old cabinet for this purpose), cut out the tabletop to the required area and sand the sawn edges with sandpaper or a wood file.

Place the tabletop on flat surface, face (smoothest!) side down. Place the base on top of the tabletop, legs up, and mark the corners of the legs with a marker.

We remove the base and drill 4 mm holes in each corner, so that the holes are in the centers of the legs. Now we put the base on the legs, place the tabletop on it, and look from below so that the marks made earlier with a marker line up. Now, using the holes available in the tabletop, we drill holes further - inside the leg, to the length of the screw.

Well, with an eight-millimeter drill, we’ll make small recesses on top of the holes for the screw heads and screw in the screws.

We cover the screw head with composite glue so that the tabletop has a smooth surface. You can pre-lubricate the surface of the recess and the screw head in it, machine oil, then it will be possible in the future to easily pick out these resulting plugs in order to dismantle the table, if necessary.

We wait for the composite glue to dry and, finally, cover the tabletop with adhesive decorative film.

Self-adhesive wallpaper should be applied as carefully as possible; there will be no second chance to re-glue it. To do this, I had to dismantle the table (fortunately, it didn’t take long to unscrew four screws and unscrew four nuts!). I humidified the air in the room using a sprayer so that dust particles would not fall on the surface to be pasted and would not form unevenness and bubbles after the work was done. I wiped the surface with alcohol and carefully, starting from one of the corners, smoothing the film into different sides from the corner with a dry cloth, on each part in turn, I pasted the film. If you still cannot avoid the bubbles, pierce them fine needle in several places, place a regular kitchen napkin on the bubble and place a flat-bottomed mug filled with boiling water in this place. For one or two minutes. After this procedure, the bubble will disappear. And one moment; Having covered the tabletop, I changed my mind about hiding the screw heads - I really liked the look of the shiny metal heads, recessed in the “stone” texture.

But this is an individual matter for each individual. If anyone doesn’t like it that way, you can hide the hats. Also cover them with glue and stick patches cut from the same film on top... This is what the table was like (in size!):