How to make a brick chimney with your own hands? Many owners ask this question. stove heating. This process is not very easy and labor-intensive, but it saves money. Let's take a closer look.

A brick chimney is one of the most inexpensive and reliable structures, which is why most owners of fireplaces or heating stoves choose it. Many companies provide services for the construction of chimneys of this type, but you can build it yourself and save money cash. The question arises: how? Let's figure it out.

Before you figure out how to create a brick chimney with your own hands, you need to decide what types of masonry exist.

Options for brick chimney duct laying

Brick chimneys are the most common and are used in almost every private home. Traditionally, they begin to be built at the same time as the house. There are two types of chimney laying:

• carrier. One of the walls of the chimney will be the wall of the room;
• separate.

Regardless of the type, the masonry is done the same way.

Conventionally, a chimney for a brick fireplace can be divided into several sections:

• foundation. The main and obligatory section of the chimney duct, which is recreated from full brick or stone. The height of the foundation is made 30 centimeters, and gives it the appearance of a rectangle. Parameters such as width and length are selected based on the fact that it should protrude by more than fifteen centimeters. But also the size of the foundation depends on the main mass and bearing capacity of the foundation;

• brick chimney channel. It is made in a square, but the best option would be to lay it out in the form of a rectangle. The optimal channel dimensions are 14 by 14 or 14 by 20 centimeters. Such a chimney is most often laid by bandaging the seams using spoon or bonded rows. The surface of the chimney channel should be made perfectly smooth without protrusions or depressions. For this, specially prepared templates made of steel or wood are used. As the masonry is created, they should be lifted up.

Advice! The outer side should be plastered to its entire height. Inner side It's better not to touch, because chemical reaction, which occurs as a result of combustion, can lead to destruction in the shortest possible time.

• The chimney head or cap requires protection from precipitation getting inside it. It is usually made of concrete and reinforced with steel reinforcement bars. Such a cap is usually installed five centimeters outside the chimney and thereby prevents rain or melt water from entering the lining. Also, when constructing the masonry, it is necessary to leave holes on the cap for gas exhaust and smoke channels.

The brick chimney should be half a meter above the roof ridge. Upper part the smoke exhaust duct should be insulated and covered with specialized roofing finishing or bricks for cladding.

If the chimney is made according to all technologies, it will be strong, safe, reliable and will last a long time. All these stages are preserved if you need to build a chimney for solid fuel boiler made of brick.

Video: stages of building a brick chimney

You can line the chimney with bricks yourself, following the advice, and save on calling professionals. The main thing during construction is to build the right drawing and have free time. You should not rush, speed is not the best indicator here, you need to focus on the quality of the masonry.

The efficiency and safety of a heating device that produces heat by burning a particular fuel largely depends on the parameters and condition of the chimney. Today, many companies have started producing insulated steel models, but not all users are ready to put up with their high cost and relatively short service life. Often homeowners decide to build a chimney pipe according to traditional technology, that is, made of brick, with your own hands. To do this, you need to follow some rules and know what materials are best to use.

Strengths and weaknesses of a brick chimney

Brick chimneys can be used in any facility, be it a boiler room or a private house. With the advent of prefabricated steel sandwiches, they have become less popular, but are still widely used. This is explained by the following advantages:

• a brick chimney is cheaper than a “sandwich”;
• lasts longer: approximately 30 years;
• is an important architectural element and is ideally combined visually with certain types of roofing, such as tiles.

But this design also has plenty of disadvantages:

1. In terms of complexity and duration, the construction of such a chimney is inferior to the installation of a “sandwich”, and special transport will be required to deliver the materials.
2. A brick chimney has significant weight, so it must be provided with a reliable foundation.
3. It has a rectangular shape in cross-section, although the most suitable is a round cross-section. Whirls form in the corners, preventing the normal flow of gases and thus worsening traction.
4. The inner surface of a brick chimney, even if finished with plaster, remains rough, as a result of which it becomes covered with soot more quickly.

Unlike of stainless steel, the brick is quickly destroyed by acid condensation. The latter is formed if the temperature flue gases during their movement through the pipe it manages to drop below 90 degrees. Therefore, when connecting a modern brick chimney economical boiler with a low-temperature exhaust or a stove operated in smoldering mode (heat generators of the brands “Professor Butakov”, Bullerjan, Breneran), it is necessary to line it, that is, install a stainless steel pipe inside.

Elements of a brick chimney

The design of the chimney is very simple.

The smoke exhaust duct is protected on top by a cone-shaped part - an umbrella or cap (1), which prevents precipitation, dust and small debris from getting inside. The upper element of the pipe - the head (2) - is wider than its main part. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the amount of moisture that gets into the lower area - the neck (3) during rain.

Above the roof there is another widening - an otter (5). Thanks to it, atmospheric moisture does not enter the gap between the chimney and the roofing (6). On the otter with the help cement mortar a slope (4) is formed, along which the water that gets onto the pipe runs off. To prevent the rafters (7) and sheathing (8) from catching fire from contact with the hot surface of the chimney, they are wrapped in heat-insulating material.

The section of the chimney crossing the attic space is called the riser (9). In its lower part, just at the level attic floor, there is another widening - fluff (10).

Note! All three widenings - head, otter and fluff - are made only due to thickening of the wall, while the cross-section of the channel always remains constant. The otter with fluff, as well as other chimney elements installed at the intersections of the roof or ceilings, are called trims.

The thick walls of the fluff protect the wooden floor elements (11) from excessive heat, which can cause them to ignite.

The chimney can be made without fluff. Then, in the area where the ceiling passes, a steel box is mounted around the pipe, which is subsequently filled with a bulk heat insulator - expanded clay, sand or vermiculite. The thickness of this layer should be 100–150 mm. But experienced users It is not recommended to use this cutting option: the insulating filler falls through the cracks.

The fluff is additionally lined with an effective non-flammable heat insulator (12). Previously, asbestos was used everywhere in this capacity, but after its carcinogenic properties were discovered, they are trying not to use this material. A harmless, but more expensive alternative is basalt cardboard.

The lowest section of the chimney is also called the neck (14). It has a valve (13), through which the draft can be adjusted.

Depending on the construction method, the chimney may be one of the following types:

1. Mounted. The stove itself serves as the basis for this design. To support the impressive weight of the chimney, its walls must be two bricks thick.
2. Root. This chimney is located on separate foundation and is not part of any heat generating installation. The smoke exhaust pipe of the stove or boiler is connected to it through a horizontal tunnel - a reversible sleeve.
3. Wall. Chimneys of this type are channels in load-bearing walls. In order to save heat, internal walls are usually used, on both sides of which there are heated rooms.

In a vertical brick chimney, draft is formed naturally, that is, due to convection. Required condition for the formation of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust gases: the greater it is, the stronger the draft is formed in the pipe. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the chimney, it is very important to take care of its insulation.

Calculation of basic parameters

At the design stage, it is necessary to determine the height of the chimney and the cross-sectional dimensions of the smoke exhaust duct. The task of the calculation is to ensure optimal traction force. It should be sufficient for the furnace to receive required amount air and all combustion products were removed in full, and at the same time not too large so that the hot gases had time to give up their heat.

Height

The height of the chimney must be selected taking into account the following requirements:

1. The minimum height difference between the grate and the top of the head is 5 m.
2. If the roof is covered with flammable material, e.g. bitumen shingles, the chimney head should rise above it by at least 1.5 m.
3. For roofs with non-combustible coating minimum distance to the top is 0.5 m.

Horse pitched roof or a flat parapet in windy weather should not create support over the chimney. To do this you need to adhere to the following rules:

• if the pipe is located closer than 1.5 m in relation to the ridge or parapet, then it should rise above this element by at least 0.5 m;
• when removed from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1.5 to 3 m, the head of the pipe can be at the same height as this element;
• at a distance of more than 3 m, the top of the head can be placed below the ridge, at the height of an inclined line drawn through it with an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizontal.

If there is a higher building near the house, then the chimney should be erected 0.5 m above its roof.

Section dimensions

If a stove or boiler is connected to the chimney, then the cross-sectional dimensions should be determined depending on the power of the heat generator:

• up to 3.5 kW: the channel is made the size of half a brick - 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7 kW: 200x270 mm;
• over 7 kW: in two bricks - 270x270 mm.

The power of factory-made heat generators is indicated in the passport. If the stove or boiler is homemade, you have to determine this parameter yourself. The calculation is carried out according to the formula:

W = Vt * 0.63 * * 0.8 * E / t,

• W - heat generator power, kW;
• Vt - volume of the firebox, m 3;
• 0.63 - average furnace load factor;
• 0.8 - average coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns completely;
• E - calorific value of fuel, kW*h/m3;
• T is the burning time of one fuel load, hours.

Typically, T = 1 hour is taken - approximately this is the time it takes for a portion of fuel to burn during normal combustion.

The calorific value E depends on the type of wood and its moisture content. The average values ​​are:

• for poplar: at a humidity of 12% E - 1856 kWh/cubic meter. m, at a humidity of 25 and 50% - 1448 and 636 kW*h/m3, respectively;
• for spruce: at humidity 12, 25 and 50%, respectively, 2088, 1629 and 715 kW*h/m3;
• for pine: respectively, 2413, 1882 and 826 kW*h/m3;
• for birch: respectively, 3016, 2352 and 1033 kW*h/m3;
• for oak: respectively, 3758, 2932 and 1287 kW*h/m3.

For fireplaces, the calculation is slightly different. Here the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney depends on the size of the firebox window: F = k * A.

• F - cross-sectional area of ​​the smoke exhaust duct, cm 2;
• K - proportionality coefficient, depending on the height of the chimney and the shape of its cross-section;
• A is the area of ​​the firebox window, cm 2.

The coefficient K is equal to the following values:

• with a chimney height of 5 m: for a round section - 0.112, for a square section - 0.124, for a rectangular section - 0.132;
• 6 m: 0.105, 0.116, 0.123;
• 7 m: 0.1, 0.11, 0.117;
• 8 m: 0.095, 0.105, 0.112;
• 9 m: 0.091, 0.101, 0.106;
• 10 m: 0.087, 0.097, 0.102;
• 11 m: 0.089, 0.094, 0.098.

For intermediate height values, the K coefficient can be determined using a special graph.

They tend to make the actual dimensions of the smoke exhaust duct close to the calculated ones. But they are selected taking into account standard sizes bricks, blocks or cylindrical parts.

Materials and tools

A brick chimney is operated under conditions of significant temperature changes, so it should be erected from the very quality bricks. Compliance with this rule will determine how safe the structure will be: if the brick does not crack, it means that poisonous gases and sparks that can cause a fire will not enter the room.

Types of bricks

The pipe is erected from solid ceramic bricks with fire-resistant properties of grades from M150 to M200. Depending on the quality, this material is divided into three grades.

First grade

When making such bricks, the temperature and holding time during firing ideally correspond to the type of clay. You can recognize it by the following signs:

• the blocks are bright red, with a possible yellowish tint;
• the body of the brick has no pores or inclusions visible to the eye;
• all edges are even and smooth, there are no crumbled areas on the edges;
• Tapping with a light hammer or other metal object produces a loud and clear sound.

Second grade

Such a brick is unburned. Here are the signs that characterize it:

• the blocks have a pale orange, slightly saturated color;
• numerous pores are visible on the surface;
• the sound when tapped is dull and short;
• There may be defects on the edges and edges in the form of burrs and crumbled areas.

Brick of the 2nd grade is characterized by low heat capacity, frost resistance and density.

Third grade

• the blocks have a deep dark red color, some are almost brown;
• when tapped, the sound is too loud;
• edges and edges contain defects in the form of chips and burrs;
• the structure is porous.

Such bricks do not have frost resistance, do not retain heat and are too fragile.

The chimney should be built from first grade brick. Second-grade should not be used at all, but third-grade can be used to make foundations for free-standing pipes.

What solution is needed

The quality requirements for mortar are as high as for brick. Under any temperature, weather and mechanical influences, it must ensure the tightness of the masonry throughout its entire service life. Since individual sections of the chimney operate in different conditions, then different solutions are used when laying it.

If the pipe being erected is a main pipe, then its first two rows (zone No. 3), located under the floor, should be placed on cement-sand mortar(for 1 part cement 3-4 parts sand). To make the mixture more plastic, you can add 0.5 parts of lime to it.

The higher-lying sections of the chimney, up to and including the fluff, have an internal temperature of 355 to 400 degrees, so when constructing them, a clay-sand mortar is used. If the fluff ends under the ceiling (zone No. 8), and the cutting is made of bulk material(zone No. 9), then the use of this mixture also applies to cutting rows.

The riser, otter and neck of the chimney (zone No. 10), which do not get very hot, but are subject to wind loads, should be laid using lime mortar. The same composition can be used when constructing the head (zone No. 11), but a regular cement-sand mixture is also suitable for this area.

The clay for the solution should be medium fat. She shouldn't have strong odor, since it is a sign of the presence organic impurities, which cause cracks to appear in the solution.

The absence of organic matter is also desirable for sand. This requirement is satisfied by mountain sand, as well as its cheaper replacement from ground brick scrap. The latter can be ceramic or fireclay. Since the chimney is built specifically from ceramic bricks, the same sand should be used.

In addition to the specified materials, you will need special purchased elements - a cleaning door, a valve and a cap. Gaps between brickwork and those installed in it metal products compacted using asbestos cord or basalt cardboard.

Tools

The most common tools will be used:

• Master OK;
• hammer-pick;
• plumb line

You can’t do without a building level.

Preparatory work

If a main chimney is being built, then construction works you should start with the construction of a reinforced concrete foundation. Its minimum height is 30 cm, and the sole must be located below the freezing depth of the soil. The chimney foundation should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the building, since both objects shrink differently.

Some craftsmen soak the brick before starting work. This makes sense, since when dry, the blocks will actively absorb water from the mortar and the masonry will be fragile. But you need to take into account that masonry made from brick that has been soaked takes quite a long time to dry, so choose a technique in accordance with the time of year and weather conditions - the brick should dry before the first frost.

The sand must be thoroughly cleaned of impurities by sifting through a sieve with a mesh size of 1x1 mm, and then washed. It is better to rub the clay through a sieve after soaking. The lime used must be slaked.

Solutions are prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Clay-sand: mix sand, fireclay and ordinary clay in a ratio of 4:1:1.
2. Limestone: sand, lime and M400 cement are combined in a ratio of 2.5: 1: 0.5.
3. Cement-sand: mix sand and cement grade M400 in a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1.

The clay is soaked for 12–14 hours, stirring from time to time and adding water if necessary. Then sand is added to it. The given recipe is designed for medium-fat clay, but it is advisable to check this parameter in advance in the following way:

1. Take 5 small portions of clay of the same mass.
2. Sand is added to 4 portions in amounts of 10, 25, 75 and 100% of the clay volume, and one is left in pure form. For obviously oily clay, the amount of sand in portions is 50, 100, 150 and 200%. Each of the test samples should be mixed until homogeneous, and then, by gradually adding water, turn into a solution with the consistency of a thick dough. A properly prepared mixture should not stick to your hands.
3. From each portion, make several balls with a diameter of 4–5 cm and the same number of plates with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm.
4. Next, they are dried for 10–12 days in a room with constant room temperature and without drafts.

The result is determined by considering the solution that satisfies two requirements as suitable for use:

• products made from it do not crack after drying (this happens with high fat content);
• Balls dropped from a height of 1 m do not crumble (this would indicate insufficient fat content).

The tested solution is prepared in sufficient volume (2-3 buckets are required for 100 bricks), and enough water is added so that the mixture slides off the trowel easily.

How to lay out a chimney with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

If the materials and tools are prepared, construction work can begin:

1. Approximately two rows to the ceiling they begin to lay out the fluff. If there are several channels in the chimney, then the bricks separating them should be partially recessed into one of the outer walls.
2. Lay out the first two rows especially carefully. They set the tone for the entire structure, so they must be perfectly even and strictly horizontal. If a mounted pipe is installed, then from the first rows it is built on a clay-sand mortar, which is applied in a layer 8–9 mm thick, and when the block is installed in place, it is compressed to a thickness of 6–7 mm.
3. Following the order, the neck of the chimney is erected. The seams must be tied so that the masonry does not crack into separate layers.
4. From the inside, the seams are rubbed with mortar (so that inner surface the chimney was as smooth as possible).
5. The duration of the fluffing is determined taking into account the expected settlement of the structures:

With each row, the wall thickness in the fluff increases by 30–35 mm. To do this, cut plates from brick different thicknesses. So, for example, in the 1st row of fluff, in addition to whole blocks, the number of which has increased from 5 to 6, longitudinal and transverse halves (2 pieces each) and several quarters are used. Cut bricks must be laid so that the rough cut faces into the masonry and not into the smoke exhaust duct. The row of fluff, which will be flush with the overlap, must be isolated from wooden elements strips of asbestos or basalt cardboard. Next, they return to the original dimensions of the chimney - this will be the first row of the riser. At this stage, using a plumb line, you need to determine the projection of the chimney onto the roof and make a hole in it for it. In waterproofing and vapor barrier films, not a hole is made, but a cross-shaped cut. After this, the resulting petals are bent in such a way that the functionality of this element is not impaired. The riser is laid out row by row, trying to make it absolutely vertical (controlled by a plumb line).

Formation of an otter

The riser ends in a row that extends half its height above the bottom edge of the hole in the roof. Those that are at the level of wooden rafters and sheathing must be insulated with asbestos or basalt strips.

The otter starts next. Like fluff, it gradually expands, but unevenly, taking into account the different heights of the edges of the hole in the roof. Next, the dimensions of the chimney return to their original values ​​- the neck of the stove begins.

The last stage is the construction of a two-row head. The first row is made with a widening of 30–40 mm in all directions. The second row follows the usual pattern, with an inclined surface laid out on the ledge of the bottom row using concrete mortar.

An umbrella is attached to the ledge of the head. The clearance between its bottom and the top of the head should be 150–200 mm.

If the roofing material is flammable and is connected to the chimney solid fuel heat generator, a spark arrester (metal mesh) must be installed on the head.

The gap between the pipe and the roof must be sealed.

The “steps” of the otter are smoothed with mortar so that an inclined surface is formed, after which the entire outer part of the chimney must be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Insulation of a brick chimney

Most cheap way insulation of a chimney - coating its surface with a solution based on lime and slag. First, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the chimney, then the solution is applied layer by layer, making the mixture thicker each time. The number of layers is from 3 to 5. As a result, the coating has a thickness of 40 mm.

After the plaster dries, cracks may appear on it that need to be covered. Next, the chimney is whitewashed with a solution of chalk or lime.

More expensive, but more effective option insulation is associated with the use basalt wool density 30–50 kg/m3. Since the walls of the chimney are flat, it is best to use this insulation in the form of hard slabs rather than soft panels (mats).

To install basalt wool on the chimney, you need to secure the metal profile frame with dowels. The insulation is placed in the frame, after which it can be fixed with a stretched nylon cord or screwed to the brickwork with special disc dowels with a cap large diameter(to prevent material from being pressed through).

A vapor-proof film is laid on top of the basalt wool (this heat insulator absorbs water well), and then plastered with ordinary cement-sand mortar over a reinforcing mesh or sheathed with tin (can be galvanized).

Installing the sleeve

Lining of the chimney is carried out in the following sequence:

1. In the boiler or furnace connection area, the chimney masonry is dismantled to a height sufficient to install the longest part of the steel liner. This is usually a condensate trap.
2. All elements of the liner (sleeve) are installed sequentially, starting from the top one. As installation progresses, the installed parts move upward, freeing up space for subsequent ones. Each element has hooks on which you can hook a rope passed through the top hole.
3. After installing the liner, the space between it and the walls of the chimney is filled with non-flammable heat insulator.

At the end, the opening in the chimney is bricked again.

Chimney cleaning

A layer of soot settling inside the chimney not only reduces its cross-section, but also increases the likelihood of a fire, since it can ignite. Sometimes it is even specially burned, but this method of cleaning is very dangerous. It is more correct to remove soot using a combination of two methods:

1. Mechanical involves the use of brushes and scrapers on long, extendable holders, as well as weights on a strong cord, which are passed into the chimney from above.
2. Chemical: a special product is burned in the firebox along with regular fuel, for example, “Log-chimney sweeper” (sold in hardware stores). It contains many substances - coal wax, ammonium sulfate, zinc chloride, etc. The gas released when this product burns forms a coating on the walls of the chimney that does not allow soot to subsequently stick to them.

The second method is used as a preventive measure.

Video: laying a brick pipe

At first glance, the chimney appears to be an extremely simple design. However, at every stage of its construction - from the selection of materials to the installation of thermal insulation - a balanced and deliberate approach is required. By following the recommendations of experts, you can build a durable and safe structure that will last for many years.

In this article we will pay attention to the difficult aspects of laying a brick chimney stove. Our products (chimneys, casings) protect the pipe head from destruction, but work reliably only when the pipe itself is laid out correctly.

The most reliable chimney will be a pipe made of red burnt and solid clay brick, laid out using porous and warm lime mortar. The seams of such a chimney breathe inside, do not fog up, and allow air to pass through well, thereby ensuring long term services brick pipe.

The cement-sand mortar familiar to many is not suitable for laying chimney pipes under the roof. It cracks relatively easily from temperature changes, does not allow air to pass through and is very dense. Due to the fact that the solution fogs up, drips form, which, when mixed with soot, penetrate through the seams of the stove walls and spoil the whitewash, and also emit bad smell. Instead of lime, clay can be added to the solution. But the head of the pipe (above the roof) is often laid out with cement, and this is correct.

The efficiency of the pipe depends on the draft force, which, in turn, depends on the height of the chimney.

Minimum height should be 5 m. The closer the head of the product is located to the ridge of the roof, the greater the height of the chimney and the smaller the head itself. The draft in the chimney is created by air flows coming from bottom to top. This movement of air masses creates a slight vacuum, and draft appears in the riser of the structure.

Brick chimney diagram and basic terms

Selecting material for laying a brick chimney

An important point when building a chimney is the choice of brick. At different stages of the construction of a smoke exhaust duct, you can use different types of bricks:

1. Red solid slab or ceramic brick – well fired. The material has smooth edges and a clear rectangular shape. When tapping red brick, a characteristic “metallic” sound is heard. This type of brick is recommended for laying any section of the chimney. The minimum mark value is 200.
2. Pink brick - unburned. When you knock on such a brick, a dull sound is heard. It is usually used for laying less important areas.
3. Dark brown brick (burnt) – best option for laying the chimney foundation.
4. The size of the brick for arranging the chimney is 25*12*6.5 cm.

Important! Porous, lightweight and hollow bricks are prohibited for use in the construction of a chimney.

The laying of different parts of the structure is marked by using a working solution of different composition:

• the chimney area above the roof is laid out on a cement-sand mixture;
• laying under the roof is carried out with lime or cement-lime mortar.

Chimney foundation installation

A separate foundation is required only for pipes belonging to the indigenous group. For example, the foundation for a boiler room chimney.

The foundation is laid similarly to the foundation for a furnace, using the same methods and taking into account the same requirements.

And the actual installation of the boiler room chimney is carried out according to a pre-calculated order.

Furnace masonry

The smoke channel of the furnace cannot be less than 130x130 mm. This chimney cross-section corresponds to a stove with a heat output of up to 3500 W. For stoves of higher power, the chimney cross-section should be 260x260 mm. Depending on the cross-sectional size of the smoke channel, masonry is carried out in several ways:

1. “Chetverik” – 4 bricks.
2. “Pyaterik” – 5 bricks.
3. “Six” - 6 bricks.

Before laying a brick chimney, a cap pipe is installed. It is erected with the obligatory observance of brick dressings. The mounted pipe is laid out directly above the fireplace or on the stove in the shape of a rectangle approximately 4-6 bricks in size. A cavity is left inside the structure - a smoke well. The nozzle pipe ends before reaching five or six rows to the ceiling.

Brick chimney outlet above the roof

Laying a brick chimney begins at the neck of the stove (located on the roof). The neck is not brought to the attic floor by several rows (2 – 4). The valve is installed here. Next, masonry is carried out with expansion.

The resulting thickening on the pipe is called “fluff” and is performed at the level of the ceiling. From it to the roof, through the entire attic (in height), a part of the pipe runs, called the riser. WITH outside the roof (roof) has a second thickening (otter).

To protect against moisture penetration into the attic space, in the place where the pipe passes through the roof, the chimney pipe on the roof is waterproofed.

The otter hangs 100 mm from the pipe above the roof surface along the entire perimeter of the pipe and drains precipitation onto the roof.

Just above the outer part of the roof, above the otter, there is a pipe neck, the area of ​​which in plan is equal to the area of ​​the riser. At the upper end the neck widens. This is where the heading is done.

Above it, in order to protect the pipe from moisture (rain, snow, etc.) and improve draft, a chimney (wind vane) is placed.

Fluff and otter are the most technically complex elements of a chimney. They are laid, lengthening from row to row by 60-70 mm in length and width.

The fluff is placed at a small distance from the roof. Typical fluff order:

Otter order (option):

There are options for making otter from reinforced reinforced concrete and fluff with special fillers.

But, if you are laying a brick chimney, we advise you to choose them only if you have the necessary work experience.

Vertical control is carried out using the construction plumb line. Brick laying is carried out with offset seams (i.e. dressing is done).

Basic masonry criteria

The chimney pipe in the installation is practically no different from the stove masonry. Some difficulties are caused by installation at the point of transition through the widening device located above the roof and attic floor.

The main requirements of the masonry are: dense filling of the joints, verticality of the mass, smooth surface of the chimney channels.

The installation of the mounted pipe is a continuation of the furnace masonry, because it stands on the roof, and a solution similar to the furnace masonry is used up to the point of transition through the attic covering. In the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal groove is installed, in other words, the walls are widened; this technique is carried out to ensure fire safety. Simultaneously with dressing the seams, the pipe is installed and cut, the internal channel is made with one section, and outer wall slowly expands - this factor is achieved by letting the outer masonry in each row (by 4 cm).

Between wooden beams and cutting, it is necessary to install fire-resistant thermal insulation, for example, basalt mats. Within the attic space, the installation of the riser is carried out according to the beacon, thus, 2-3 rows of the chimney pipe are laid out above the groove. A plumb line is lowered from the roof area to one of the corners; for these purposes, a nail is driven into the point of the roof sheathing from which this plumb line is lowered.

After which a nylon thread is tied to the nail, the lower end of this thread is also attached to a nail driven into the corner, which is located in the seam of the chimney masonry. The masonry is laid along this angle, which is checked with a square or by measuring the diagonals after 3-4 rows. Laying a chimney pipe above the roof presents some difficulties; in this place the masonry is done using a complex clay-cement mortar.

Typical mistakes when constructing a chimney

There may be malfunctions in the operation of the heating device due to defects that were made during the laying of the chimney:

1. Poor foundation or foundation
2. Unsuitable brick
3. Insufficient height of the pipe relative to the roof of the house affects the reduction in draft.
4. Poor-quality mortar used for masonry is destroyed under the influence of different temperatures - the strength and tightness of the chimney deteriorate.
5. The unevenness of the internal channel provokes the appearance of turbulence - soot/soot is deposited on the walls.
6. Tolerance vertically – 30°C over a segment of 2 m.

Pipe head protection

Over time, a brick pipe is destroyed by temperature changes and precipitation. Our products help protect and sometimes restore it - and:

The main functions of the chimney smoker:

• Protection against precipitation and debris getting into the pipe
• Protection from birds (they can make a nest in the pipe)
• Increased traction
• Protecting the chimney from destruction.

In addition, the chimney on the roof is simply beautiful - forming a single whole with the roof, the chimney gives the pipe a finished look.

You can order a chimney or protective casing for a pipe by sending a sketch to

The choice of a brick device as a chimney for a stove is primarily due to its excellent draft and presentable appearance. In addition, such a chimney will serve its owner much longer than its metal or pipe counterparts. The installation of a brick chimney requires compliance with the finest technological nuances associated with masonry. We’ll look at how to lay out a brick chimney in a high-quality manner below.

Brick chimney: requirements, size, configuration

The chimney is the most important part heating system, because the correct functioning of all equipment depends on its quality. The main function of a high-quality chimney is to remove products that are formed during the combustion process and provide high draft that promotes fuel combustion.

A brick chimney is characterized primarily by its low cost, durability and good performance characteristics. Brick tolerates both low and high temperatures well.

It is the correct calculation of the chimney that ensures comfortable conditions, for people who live in the building. A high-quality chimney can reduce the level of fuel needed to heat the stove; in addition, fire safety and indoor air quality depend on it.

Each equipment connected to the chimney must meet the following requirements:

• ensuring protection against fire - the chimney must have a high level of fire safety, the minimum distance between the chimney and the wall must be at least 38 cm, in addition, in areas where the chimney passes through the ceilings, the construction of special extensions is necessary;
• the height value significantly affects the draft, a correctly determined chimney height significantly improves the draft and the fuel combustion procedure takes place with high productivity, the minimum chimney height is 500 cm;
• chimney thickness is a parameter that ensures fire safety in the room; the thicker the chimney, the less it heats up, optimal parameter chimney thickness is 100 mm;
• in relation to the internal cross-section of the chimney, it must be laid out in such a way that there are no differences in the internal size.

Please note that each chimney is individual, its calculations are made in relation to the individual characteristics of the room, but still each chimney made of brick must be sealed and have a smooth inner surface.

Smoke moves inside the chimney in a spiral shape, so most often the chimney has a round shape. Although, brick does not allow you to build a chimney in this form. Most often, a chimney made of brick has the shape of a rectangle or square.

Although, the corner sections of the chimney are places that prevent the normal movement of smoke in the system. Using a plaster mixture and a leveling value, it is possible to smooth the surface of the chimney so that it is round inside.

Please note that the quality of work must be at the highest level, since the plaster is prone to crumbling due to temperature changes. The size of the chimney significantly affects the quality of draft. In addition, the chimney must be in harmony with the overall exterior of the room. On small house, a chimney that is too large in size will look unsightly.

The optimal size of the chimney is 26x13 cm. This structure is constructed by laying each row of five bricks. Although it is possible to make a chimney with a larger diameter, this will require more effort.

Laying a brick chimney pipe

It is necessary to start laying on top of the stove; before this, a mounted pipe is installed on its surface. To build it, you will need to observe dressing between the rows.

The brick is laid in the same way as during the construction of the wall. But there are still certain features of laying a brick chimney:

1. Make sure that each row is horizontal and regularly check it for evenness. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the verticality of the entire structure.

2. To ensure strong adhesion between bricks, it is recommended to use a composition of clay, cement and sand as a solution. The ratio of sand to cement is two to five, and part of the clay is necessary.

3. The solution is applied to a brick with a thickness of five to ten millimeters. If the layer of mortar is too thick, the structure will be less durable, since temperature changes will lead to its crumbling.

4. One more important aspect is the correct sealing of joints between bricks. If you neglect this procedure, sparks from the chimney will enter the room.

5. During the laying process, use only whole bricks; if you need to install a certain part of the brick, then the layer of mortar for laying it should be minimal.

What chimney brick should you use?

To build a brick chimney, you only need two basic materials in the form of bricks and mortar. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations for choosing materials for chimney construction:

1. The choice of brick should be carried out with particular seriousness. The material must be fireproof and high quality. The minimum value of the mark is 200. By appearance the brick must have smooth edges, a clear rectangular shape, good firing and be strong enough. Optimal size bricks for arranging a chimney is 25x12x6.5 cm.

2. Next moment- production of solution. To build a durable chimney, you will need a solution containing water, sand, clay and cement. A high-quality solution contains fine sand with small grains. Otherwise, the thickness of the solution layer increases, and the quality and strength of the chimney decreases. Particular attention should be paid to the clay; it should not contain foreign impurities, and the water for preparing the solution should be clean and soft.

The stove roof is adjacent to the chimney using special material, which waterproofs this area. To protect the room from moisture and precipitation, a thickening called an otter is made from the outside of the chimney.

If there is no otter, then a material is used in the form of galvanized iron, which is mounted on the roof in a special way.

If you follow the previously given tips and recommendations, the brick chimney will be of high quality and durable. However, there are certain points in which inexperienced builders most often make mistakes, and we’ll talk about them further.

The first and most common mistake is a small pipe. It leads to a lack of draft in the stove or other heating device. Such a chimney is not able to function normally. Therefore, before carrying out work on arranging a brick chimney, you should carefully study the recommendations for determining optimal length chimney pipes that can provide good draft.

Failure to comply with the proportions for preparing the solution leads to the fact that cleaning the chimney becomes difficult, and the solution crumbles over time. The more uniformly located the internal channel of the chimney, the better the quality of smoke and all combustion products removed from it. If the duct is poorly made, then smoke enters the room, and this threatens the residents of the house with poisoning.

Try to ensure that the chimney is as vertical as possible and avoid horizontal sections that are too long. If it is planned to deviate the chimney, then in an area of ​​up to 100 cm, the chimney should deviate by no more than thirty degrees.

How to make a chimney from brick: design features of the chimney

Before making a brick chimney, you should carefully study its design. The first element of the chimney is a pipe installed on the shoulders. It has a latch. To lay out the pipe, the bricks should be tied.

If you count 5-6 rows of bricks from the ceiling, then at this stage you should arrange the neck of the fluff. This element is a kind of widening, although the diameter inside is the same as the chimney. The diameter of the outer part of this element is reduced by 30-35 cm.

A chimney located in the attic is called a riser; this section extends right up to the roof base. The next cutting element is the otter, it expands on each side by at least 100 mm. It is this fragment of the chimney that prevents precipitation from entering the room.

After the otter comes the arrangement of a neck, the size of which is similar to the cross-section of the chimney. The final fragment of the chimney is the arrangement of the head, on which a part in the form of a deflector or metal cap is installed. Thus, the chimney is protected from snow, rain or wind. In addition, these elements significantly improve traction.

Step-by-step construction of a brick chimney with your own hands

We suggest dividing the work of laying a brick chimney into several stages:

1. Preparatory stage.

First, you should consider the diagrams of brick chimneys and choose the best option that will suit the individual parameters of the room and heating equipment. If you have a conventional wood stove, you will need to carefully design each of the rows of masonry. And if the stove is gas, then you need to install a metal pipe inside the chimney.

Before starting to lay the chimney, you should install a rectangular foundation. To construct it you will need solid brick or concrete with the presence metal fittings. The minimum height of the foundation is 300 mm, and the width is 150 mm greater than the chimney itself.

2. Next stage involves direct work on laying a brick chimney with your own hands.

For these works, a special scheme will be required, according to which each brick is laid. Red or refractory bricks should be used to lay out the chimney. If the temperature in the chimney is too high, then it is recommended to use special fire-resistant solutions to connect the bricks. Otherwise, using a solution of cement with lime or cement with clay is sufficient.

In order to cut off a certain part of the brick, you should use grinder, and marks are made using a marker. The strength of the chimney directly depends on the thickness of the layer; the thinner it is, the stronger and more reliable the chimney.

To form an otter or other areas of similar purpose, it is sufficient to use metal rods that are mounted along the frame of the structure. Please note that the rods should not be located along the diameter of the chimney, as they will become an obstacle to the removal of combustion products. In addition, you should take into account the fact that the high width of the chimney depends on the thickness of the mortar that is applied to the brick.

In addition, in the process of making a brick chimney for the boiler, special holes should be made that will simplify the cleaning procedure. The wall inside the chimney must be particularly even. To do this, they must be finished with plaster. Thus, soot will not accumulate on the walls, which negatively affects the quality of the chimney.

3. The final stage of manufacturing chimneys for brick stoves.

If the chimney is being erected directly next to a wall, then to increase its stability, it should be fixed to it using steel anchors at intervals of 25 cm. At the junction of the chimney, ceiling and roof, asbestos-based or fiberglass-based fabric should be laid. Although the brick is heated rather slowly, it is still necessary to reduce possible fire. One more important point is the fact that the minimum height of a chimney rising above the roof is 300 mm.

To increase the attractiveness of a brick chimney on the outside of a building, it is necessary to insulate and finish it. Choose thermal insulation materials, which are characterized by good resistance to high temperatures and moisture. Thermal insulation will help avoid the accumulation of condensation in the chimney due to temperature changes. It is recommended to use facing bricks or special roofing materials as finishing.

Brick chimneys video:

Nowadays there is a large number of various chimneys, suitable for solid fuel or gas boiler. The latest developments in this area and the emergence of new materials allow manufacturers to produce chimneys, which in their design are separate complex units that can successfully resist corrosion, soot deposits and condensation. But still, despite this, many prefer to build a brick chimney with their own hands.

IN Lately construction country houses has become widespread. Along with this, interest in fireplaces and stoves has increased. People try to build stoves according to old, proven recipes inherited from their fathers and grandfathers. But the art of stoves was almost completely lost in certain regions during a certain period of development of our country. Today we will try to help you build a chimney with your own hands.

Chimney - what does it consist of?

Before you build a brick chimney, you need to figure out what parts it consists of. After all, many people think that brick chimneys are an ordinary rectangular pipe made of brick laid on mortar. This is not entirely true. But let's take things in order.

At the beginning . This part of the pipe is installed directly on the stove. A valve can be installed in it. The mounted pipe must be laid out, ensuring that the bricks are tied in each row. The attachment part is not brought to the interfloor ceiling of 5 or 6 rows. It all depends on the height of the stove, the room and the thickness of the interfloor ceiling. This place is called the neck of the fluff.

When laying a brick pipe, the cross-section of the smoke channel in the top pipe and the head should be the same. Thus, the cross-section of the entire smoke channel anywhere in the chimney has the same size.

The fluff or cutting should be laid out in several rows, widening the outer part of the chimney at 250 – 400 mm.

Then you should lay out another cut called otter. The otter forms an extension on the chimney on all four sides, not less than 100 mm. This expansion prevents precipitation from entering through the cracks between the chimney and the roof directly into the attic space. The absence of an otter causes moisture to penetrate into the attic, leading to destruction load-bearing structures roofs and ceilings.

Above the otter, the chimney should be placed in the same way as the riser. This place is called the neck of the tube.

After the cervix external masonry expands again, forming the head of the chimney. You can install a weather vane or a metal cap on the head, which will protect the inside of the chimney from precipitation.

A well-chosen weather vane or cap can significantly increase the draft in the chimney.

Do-it-yourself chimney laying

We have looked at all the main parts and their names, it’s time to tell you how to build a brick chimney with your own hands.

Basic preparation completed

Today we will not mention materials, tools or which brick to use for the chimney; a lot has already been said about this on the pages of our resource. Let's assume that we have everything ready. Our task today is to look at how to properly build a brick chimney.

The first stage is familiarization with the drawings

Before us is a drawing of a brick chimney. Although there are many other options, this is the standard brick chimney design for a stove, solid fuel boiler or fireplace. Use inside such a chimney metal pipe from a special alloy can easily turn it into . Since the requirements for the smoke exhaust conditions of a solid fuel and gas boiler are somewhat different.

The numbers on the drawing indicate:

1. Wind vane.
2. Pipe neck.
3. Cement mortar.
4. Otter.
5. Roof.
6. Lathing.
7. Rafters.
8. Riser.
9. Cutting (fluffing).
10. Overlap.
11. Insulation.
12. Smoke valve.
13. Kiln neck.

It is important to know: fluff and otter can be placed a little differently, it all depends on the location of the chimney relative to the roof and on the angle of its slope.

The size of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the masonry joints - remember this.

Chimney laying - first steps

Formation of cutting

Looking from the inside, it becomes clear that the fluff is beginning to take on its shape.

• In the next row, the outer dimensions are already 570x710 mm.
• Bricks of 90 - 100 mm thickness are inserted inside.

Finishing the cutting

• The fifth row is laid out with a whole brick.
• The sixth row must be laid out in exactly the same way as the fifth, but strictly observing the dressing.

If necessary, to make the fluff higher, you can lay another row, tying it under the underlying masonry.

Work in the attic

• The riser is carried through the roof.

This completes the work in the attic; then you need to begin installing part of the chimney on the roof.

"Roof work"

We continue to lay out the riser on the roof. Pay close attention to the bonding of the brickwork.

• The riser is displayed 1 – 2 rows above the roof, then the otter begins laying out.

Otter - making protrusions

• The otter is laid out in nine rows.
• Each next row is larger than the previous one in outer size by one-fourth of a brick.
• At the same time, do not forget about maintaining the size of the smoke channel.
• Select internal brick plates so that the smoke channel does not expand or contract.

As we see, in this row brickwork forms only one protrusion, forward. Along the edges outer size the chimney remained unchanged.

Thus, we have a front and two side protrusions. All that remains is to lay out the rear ledge.

Finishing the otter

Lay out the neck

You can view all dimensions of the height of the chimney above the roof on our resource. This applies to all chimneys, whether chimneys for brick boilers or other heating units.

The final stage is the head

Inexperienced builders believe that laying a brick chimney is the same as building walls. However, the design of the chimney has its own nuances. In particular, experts do not recommend using cement-sand mortar. Such a solution will not withstand sudden temperature fluctuations that occur in the wall of the chimney pipe. In addition, the usual solution will be destroyed by condensation, which inevitably settles on the pipe wall.

Therefore, it is necessary to lay a brick chimney using a thermally efficient and resistant chemical influences solution. You can prepare a solution using already ready-made mixtures. But this is expensive, so many people prefer to prepare a thermally effective solution on their own; such a solution consists of cement, sand, lime and fireclay. Some experts recommend using clay mortar.

If the boiler is gas

If for wood stove and for a solid fuel boiler, installing a brick chimney is justified, but for a gas boiler this is not the best option smoke removal It's all about the different operating modes of the stove, solid fuel and gas boiler. If solid fuel equipment does not require high traction, then using a rectangular brick pipe for a gas boiler will lead to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating unit.

When using a gas boiler, the requirements for the chimney installation are different than when installing solid fuel equipment. Therefore, if a house is being built, then a chimney made of a metal pipe is necessary for a gas boiler.

If a gas boiler is installed instead of a solid fuel or wood stove, then the construction of a new chimney is impractical. However, the requirements for the chimney of a gas boiler must be met. In this case, the brick chimney is lined, that is, a metal pipe is installed inside the existing brick chimney. Thus, the requirements for the smoke exhaust device will be met and there will be no need to disassemble the old pipe.

Nothing is impossible

By by and large, making brick chimneys with your own hands is a completely doable task for any person who loves to work with his hands for his own pleasure. Sometimes it is believed that brick chimneys are becoming a thing of the past. This is not true, for example, lining a brick chimney with pipes with a special coating, but the design of a brick chimney allows this to be done and allows them to be used in work with the most modern heating boilers. We hope that after reading this article you no longer have the question of how to properly make a brick chimney for a fireplace or stove with your own hands. Try, practice, and the brick chimneys built by your own hands will delight you and your loved ones with ideal work under any conditions. Good luck to you!