Step by step instruction and video.

1. We make a silicone mold for casting the glowing element.

To do this, we fix the handle in a glass and fill it with silicone.
The cutting was pretreated with VS-M silicone grease.

2.From a high distance, to reduce the number of bubbles, fill in silicone.

3. After the silicone has dried (approximately 30-40 minutes), remove the cutting.

4. Prepare the stalk: drill, clean, grind.

5. Install the LED light bulb in the handle.

6. Place the handle in a silicone mold and insulate it with a sealant.

7. Prepare a mixture of epoxy resin with a hardener for further pouring into the mold and pour it.

8. After complete solidification of the composition, remove the workpiece.

9. We check the performance of the LED lamp.

10.Saw, grind, give the desired shape.

11. Now let's make the stand.

12. We have decided on the shape, the material will be Premium Liquid Plastic with white dye.

13. Fill in the mold and fix the wires.

The pour point is 4 minutes. Full cure 30 min.

We plug into the USB connector! Ready

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Wood and epoxy resin LED lamp

October 11, 2018
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

I want to tell you about an interesting LED lamp project. Its unique design is inspired by nature itself, I just added an electrical part and gave it a geometric shape.

I choose wood

In my workshop I had a cut of cherries, from which I cut off an uneven edge with an electric jigsaw. I will use it as the main material for the design of the lamp. I brushed the bark of the tree to remove dust and stubborn dirt.

Stabilizing wood

The edge of the wood was slightly rotten, and in order to avoid deformation of the wood due to natural decay processes, I treat it with Minwax hardener. The composition penetrates deeply into the wood, and the special resin included in it strengthens and binds the destroyed wood fibers.

I apply the composition with a paint brush, paying maximum attention to the cherry bark so that it does not fall off during further processing.

I level the surface

Using a hand router and roller skids, I level the surface of the cherry saw cut.

Making a mold for filling

To create a shape to hold the epoxy around the saw cut, I make it from pieces of MDF. To do this, I cut 4 sidewalls and the bottom to fit the saw cut. I lubricate the inside of them with a thin layer of wax to facilitate release after pouring the epoxy. Then I assemble the body with a glue gun, placing a saw cut of a tree inside.

Pour in epoxy

The epoxy had to be cast in 3 coats to prevent overheating. First, I kneaded the resin in a cup, then poured it into a mold. He heated the resin with a construction hairdryer to remove air bubbles. Again he poured the next portion of resin, and warmed it up.

I remove the casting

After several days of resin hardening, I disassemble the mold and remove the formed panel.

Smoothing the surface

I use a planer to remove excess epoxy.

Grinding surface

Using a grinder and emery wheels of different grain sizes (from 60 to 220), I process the front surface of the future lamp.

Hand grinding

The combination of natural wood and epoxy resin is quite an interesting and original solution in terms of interior decoration. The light source is an LED lamp that is attached to the bottom of the frame - at the same time it acts as a stand.

The LED table lamp, made of natural wood and epoxy resin, without a drop of exaggeration can be called an exclusive decorative item that will take its rightful place in the home collection of unique things. And everyone can make such a masterpiece with their own hands.

Basic preparatory work

First of all, from pieces of chipboard, we assemble a rectangular box with dimensions of 33x20 cm, which will be used as a mold for pouring epoxy resin. In the process of assembling the frame, it is important not only to maintain all the original dimensions, but also to ensure that the internal corners are located strictly at 90 degrees.

We install the box on a flat surface, tighten it with clamps, and be sure to seal all the cracks with a sealant (to save time, it is recommended to use hot melt glue). Then you can proceed to the most critical part of the work - pouring epoxy resin.

Making LED lamps from epoxy

First, fill in a small layer of black epoxy. We are waiting for the base to harden, spill it with a thin layer of transparent epoxy resin and lay a piece of the board. In this case, the side of the board, on which the bark remains, should look inward. Then we decorate the artistic "composition" with green moss and fill it to the top with transparent epoxy. The total thickness is 3 cm.

!
Romanian sculptor and designer Eduard Lokota founded his original design studio with the aim of decorating the homes of modern people. The studio's collections are inspired by nature in general and seascapes in particular. Eduard Lokota makes each sculpture by hand. As a result, the objects are truly one of a kind. They fascinate with their insight into the inherent relationship between rock hardness and water flow. The designer combines sculptural elements with artistic flair, blurring the line between art and function.

“Eduard Lokota currently lives and works in Timisoara, Romania.
He has been creating unique sculptures using epoxy resin, among other materials, for a relatively long time.

Some of his works sell for 1,100 euros.

Let's try and make a lamp similar to one of the designer's works.
The author took as a basis an oak bar measuring 65 x 65 mm.

Then you need to decide which part of the lamp will be epoxy, and which will remain in its original form (well, almost pristine).

To solve this dilemma, the master used the rule of harmonious proportion, or as it is also called the rule of the golden ratio. This is a rule in which the greater part refers to the lesser as the length of the whole object to the greater part. If in numbers, then this ratio is about 1.62 and in order not to break his brain with long calculations, the author decided to leave the wooden part 162 mm long, and the epoxy 100 mm.

If you divide these two sections with just a straight line, it will be trite and generally not comme il faut. But if you include imagination, then you can come up with something like this.

To break a block of wood in this way will not have enough strength, I think no one, so the author uses the so-called method of gouging drilling.

The essence of the method is that the author of the homemade product, using screw (ordinary were also used) drills for wood, drills a bar at different angles with drills of different diameters as needed. In this case, the worse it turns out, the better, he says. Actually, this is the method of gouging drilling. He also warns everyone who decides to repeat this method that the drills cut into the wood at a high enough speed. This causes some inconvenience. The author recommends using a screwdriver rather than a drill at a sufficiently low speed.

After that, a chisel is enough and woo a la - the bar is divided into 2 parts.

The truth looks such beauty as if the dogs chewed. But in other ways it is impossible to achieve such a figured separation of an oak (and rather thick and very durable) bar.

Then the author, using a ruler and a pencil, marks the center on both sides and drills with a thin drill on both sides. This is necessary for accuracy. The resulting hole will guide the large diameter drill.

The boundary between the light source and the resin will be separated by the lens from the old lens. the diameter of the lens in the frame is 22 mm. To install it, you need to drill a small recess using a drill of the appropriate diameter.

On the reverse side, the author drills the workpiece with a real feather monster. The diameter of the drill is as much as 45 mm and at least the drill gnaws through such a huge hole in an oak bar.

Then the author begins to experimentally select the concentration of the dye for resins, choosing an interesting shade.

He also fixes the lens with resin.

Next, you need to prepare a mold for filling. The author cut several pieces of acrylic according to the size of a bar and connected them together with household tape. This is necessary for waterproofing at the joints.

This is a kind of formwork.

To control the filling process, the author makes a transparent screen. He decided to make a kind of screen from a transparent plastic cover from children's paints.

While everyone is trying to get rid of the small bubbles formed during the mixing and pouring of the resin in order to get a transparent fill, the author decides to air the entire mixture in full and vice versa to get a bunch of bubbles. Therefore, violating the instructions, he began to actively mix the fill.

It's time to fill.

But all the bubbles began to leave the resin. But the most unpleasant thing is that the form began to leak. Even a bunch of rubber bands did not help, so it was decided to separate the fill and the mold and take the resin out onto the balcony. The author left the mold soaked in resin warm. The plan came true. The tar ran dry in the cold. The mold is glued and completely sealed. Moreover, the bubbles did not float up in the thick resin. Having mixed well, it became possible to keep them there forever.

After 12 hours, the resin hardened and became as hard as stone.

Now we need to separate the pieces of acrylic and clear plastic.

The author decided to add grace to the homemade product and a unique feature, a little zest, so to speak.
It remains to fill the resulting pattern with resin.

It's time to start the sanding process.
To grind the workpiece, the author uses a grinder. Started sanding with a 60 grit belt, then 150, 240 and 320. I finished it with 500 and 1000 grit paper.

This is what the surface looks like after grinding with 1000 grit.

Further polishing. Using a felt wheel coated with a special polishing paste for plastic, starts polishing.

After grinding in some of the depressions, the resin was destroyed. It will require some minor cosmetic repairs. For this, regular quick-drying epoxy tube repairs will do. It must be tinted in the color of the fill and the glue hardens within 5 minutes.

So let's go in order, step by step:

1. First, I made a hole in the middle of the blank. For this, a milling cutter (which is not necessary) and a drill were used. In any case, work with chisels is indispensable here. With a drill, you can make auxiliary holes using simple and feather drills, after which you need to hollow out the middle with chisels. The depth must be at least the height of the bulb you want to use.

2. At the second stage, the middle was burned out. A little gasoline (or any combustible mixture), a lighter and you're done. This is the easiest step.

3. Next, I filled the prepared hole with epoxy resin, having previously inserted a mold with a diameter of about 70-80 mm there. It can be any plastic flat measuring form. You can also use PVC pipes, having previously tightened one end with a film and sealed with aluminum tape.

4. At the fourth stage, we cut off all unnecessary, again, with the help of chisels, until the epoxy layer appears.

5. The final processing depends on your imagination and creativity. I sanded so that there were small edges, painted with black paint on the wood, sanded again and covered with a thin layer of epoxy. There can be any variations.