Do-it-yourself semi-antique bed drawings. How to make a bed out of wood with your own hands: the choice of design, materials. Detailed manufacturing process. The final touch: attaching the legs

There is no piece of furniture more important in a modern apartment than a bed. A person needs to rest after a hard day at work, and the bed can help with this. Of course, choosing a bed is not an easy task, and often just impossible. If, for some reason, choosing a bed for a pleasant stay did not work out, you can always cope on your own. The following will describe how to make a bed with your own hands.

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First, it should be noted that the appearance, size and materials from which the bed will be made completely depend on the imagination and financial capabilities of the person who collects it. The options are different: from a simple single wooden bed to a large double bed, made in the form of a spaceship, decorated with various elements. The most common options can be identified.

A simple, most familiar model, chosen by many precisely because of the simplicity of execution. Four legs, two lateral fixings on the sides, two backs and a slatted bottom. In a word - a classic.

A further step in modern bed-making was the equipping of their products with boxes - for storing various things in them, from bed linen to some personal items. Almost any bed can be equipped with boxes, even after the end of its assembly.

Today transforming beds are gaining popularity. As the name implies, such a bed can be turned into a completely different piece of furniture with a slight movement of the hand. It allows you to save a lot of free space in the apartment.

There are also a lot of transformation options, and here are the main ones:

  • Wardrobe bed... The frame of such beds is often made of light, but strong metals that can not deform under constant stress during sleep, as well as when stored in a folded state. The bed itself is a vertical structure with three walls, built-in drawers and a lifting mechanism on which the frame is installed.

When folded, the cabinet can be closed both with the bottom of the frame and with special doors that open during sleep. The big disadvantage of this design is the limited number of things that can be placed in the drawers of the cabinet. These will not be used very often. However, the place that will help to save such a bed most often covers this minus.

  • Bed-table... Most often, this type of transformation is used in families with children attending school. The size of the table (and the bed that comes out of it) is very limited, and it is quite difficult for an adult to enjoy a pleasant sleep. To strengthen the entire structure, a furniture wall with cabinets and shelves is used, into which a table is mounted, the distant part of which turns into a bed.

  • Perhaps, armchair-bed is the most common type of folding beds without a frame in most apartments. Such products are also called frameless. An additional place to sleep for one person, as well as a comfortable chair for the rest of the time, is better than you can imagine. Previously, such an armchair was an integral part of a set with a sofa, but today, due to the growing popularity of apartment decoration in the style of minimalism, the fashion for such products is rapidly disappearing.

  • Pouf bed... The same transforming bed, but without armrests and backrest. A modern folding bed with quality fillings and box springs. This option is suitable for almost any apartment, since this product takes up very little space, folds into bed in just seconds and is ideal for sleeping.

Folding horizontal products can be considered a separate type of beds that can be made by hand. Such models differ from transformers in that they do not turn into a separate piece of furniture, but are folded with the help of a special mechanism into a furniture wall, into which almost everything necessary can be additionally built.

Floating beds are the squeak of modern fashion. They, of course, do not float, but due to the original organization of the elements that hold the bed, it seems as if nothing is holding it at all. The decision to make and install such a model in your apartment is quite daring, but at the same time it is extremely interesting.

There are many different options for decorating the space under the bed. There are lighting, shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow and creating the effect of romance and mystery, and various rugs that turn the room into a soft, pleasant room. There are many options, just connect your imagination.

The last variety worth talking about is hanging beds. They look very beautiful and truly unique, although it will be easier to make such a bed even with your own hands than other pieces of furniture. The main condition for using this type of berth is the ability to allocate a sufficiently large space for it, since the suspension mechanism tends to swing with a small amplitude.

Determine the size

When making something with your own hands, you need to take into account a lot of things. When choosing a bed, its size will be a very important factor. Of course, the size also depends on a variety of nuances.

The first nuance is the need for a certain number of sleeping places in the room. If the room allows, then you can provide it with a bed of absolutely any size. Of course, many make classic singles and doubles. So, the following nuance emerges.

For almost any bed made by yourself, you need to choose a mattress, which should very clearly fit in size to the size of the bed. This is a very important choice, since an improperly selected mattress can lead to poor sleep, leading to various nervous disorders, psychosis, as well as problems with the human skeleton. At the present time, mattresses are made in the following size ranges:

  • 90 × 200;
  • 120 × 200;
  • 140 × 200;
  • 180 × 200;
  • 160 × 200;
  • 80 × 190;

  • 180 × 80;
  • 90 × 190;
  • 70 × 160;
  • 120 × 180;
  • 150 × 200;
  • 90 × 180;
  • 170 × 80.

Focusing on this dimensional grid, it is worth calculating the size of the future bed. Of course, everything should be done as carefully as possible. There shouldn't be any inaccuracies.

Mattress base options

Having decided on the dimensions, you can proceed to the selection of such an important part of the bed as the base for the mattress. Yes, of course, you can do without a mattress, replacing it with a non-removable filler of the same chair-beds and similar furniture, but at home it is extremely difficult to do this, therefore, most often the beds are made under the mattress.

They are like this:

  • Today it is already considered a relic of the past, but in some places you can still see a flat base. It consists of boards hammered together, forming wooden shield, on which the mattress is laid. There are practically no advantages to this design (compared to more modern options), but there are a lot of disadvantages.

  • Slatted bottom... The most common base option. Such a product is sold in almost any store and can be replaced with a slight movement of the hand. It consists of several bending strips (lamellas) made of different materials (most often wood is used), placed at an equal small distance from each other and laid on the frame. It fits directly into the mattress niche.

There are options with shock absorbers that automatically distribute weight throughout the mattress, and products without them, designed for light loads. If something happens to the lamellas, as mentioned above, they can be replaced even one at a time.

  • Orthopedic... At such a bottom, a metal frame always lies at the base - a pipe that holds the entire structure. Lamellas at such a base bend better - due to a special manufacturing method associated with gluing the material from which the parts are made. The so-called lateral holders, made of plastic and designed to hold the lamellas, are attached to the frame.

  • Plastic... Such bases are quite different from all previous options in that they rely on plastic springs, which allow for better frame elasticity and the ability to control the level of stiffness of the berth. Of course, this option is also more expensive, but its orthopedic component makes you think a hundred times about whether it is worth saving on health.

Features of the metal product

When choosing various metals as the main materials for making a bed, you should make sure that the selected material will be as strong as possible and capable of withstanding heavy loads. Today, beds made of metal are even cheaper than their wooden counterparts. Most often, for the manufacture of the frame, profile pipes are used, with which it is easier to work. Buying them is also quite simple.

As in any business, the manufacture of a metal bed frame is fraught with various difficulties. At home, for example, it is almost impossible to make such products, because it is necessary to have a rather specific tool for cutting, processing and welding metal structures. However, all efforts will be justified, since in the end you will get a bed that will serve faithfully for many years. It is possible that even more than one generation.

It should also be borne in mind that the metal bed:

  • Has more weight than analogues.
  • It is often not demountable, so the place for installation must be chosen wisely.
  • Due to joints and poorly processed welds, it can damage interior elements, the floor, and also cause injury to both children and adults.

It is possible to make a bed even from polypropylene pipes, which will be much cheaper, more convenient to compose, but at the same time less durable. Such structures are not designed for heavy weight, and they are recommended to be used only for the manufacture of baby beds. Of course, no one forbids making an adult bed, but this is fraught with its rapid deformation, destruction - and just a bad dream.

Popular materials

Having decided on the size, frame and base for the mattress, it is worth thinking about another very important element. About the material from which all the previous elements will be made. Of course, wood will be the most environmentally friendly, visually pleasing and aesthetically correct choice, but its cost can scare off many craftsmen.

If the price is not the main thing for you, then you should pay attention to the fact that you need to choose only the highest quality wood species for the bed, such as oak, beech, ash, mahogany, birch and others. The materials must be well dried and free from the slightest cracks. Of course, there should be no knots either. These can be boards or bars, fastened with a special glue - in order to obtain the so-called glued boards. When the boards are ready, they are coated with a special water-based varnish that will preserve their appearance and protect them from moisture for many years.

  • The most difficult type of tree to understand is aspen... For some reason, it is this tree that many masters (and ordinary people) associate with various superstitions, which differ so much that it is extremely difficult for an unprepared person to understand this, and often impossible.

Of course, this tree species is famous not only for superstitions. Even the most skilled connoisseurs cannot decide what time of year is the best time to cut the aspen for further processing. Some say that this is the end of spring, others prefer the end of summer. In general, everything is very ambiguous.

  • The most popular and cheapest material today is becoming PVC - or polyvinyl chloride... This material is a colorless plastic, very convenient for processing and further use. It has average characteristics in terms of price-quality ratio, which is why it is so popular, however, experts say that polyvinyl chloride, when heated, emits dangerous fumes that can harm human health.

  • Approximately at the same level of popularity with PVC is MDF - or fine fraction... The name, of course, sounds rather unusual, but in reality these are just slabs made by the method of high pressure (from medium density wood fibers).

MDF has a rather obvious disadvantage. Of course, we are talking about a very bad combination with water. Too much moisture for such a material is destructive, since dry compressed fibers swell, destroying the original structure of the board, as well as the paint and varnish coating, which greatly affects the appearance and the possibility of further operation of the product as a whole.

  • As mentioned above, in addition to wood and plastic, beds are also used various metals, from simple sheet iron to gold and platinum. The features of this choice are described in the corresponding section.

How to make a two-tier model at home?

It may seem that making a bunk bed is not very necessary for most people, but for families raising two or more children, such a model is a real salvation. Of course, if there is a separate children's room, then you can put a couple of beds for each baby, but is it worth cluttering up the extra space that can be used under the Swedish wall, for example.

Wooden

Such a model is the simplest of all possible, so almost any (even a beginner) master can make it. These beds are called classic. Such furniture consists of only 11 necessary elements:

  • vertical racks - 4 pcs.;
  • pads for vertical posts - 4 pcs.;
  • drawers - 4 pcs.;
  • longitudinal strips for frame boards - 4 pcs.;
  • headboard and footboard upper panels - 4 pcs.;
  • central planks of the headboard and footboard - 4 pcs.;
  • stair railings - 1 pc .;
  • stair steps - 3 pcs.;
  • guardrails - 4 pcs.;
  • slats for the base of the mattress - 24 pcs.;
  • end boards of the supporting frame - 4 pcs.

  • First you need to install the headboard and footboard. To do this, the corresponding upper and central strips are attached to the vertical posts at the required level.
  • Then the drawers are installed in special grooves, which are attached with self-tapping screws.
  • After installing the structure, you can start fixing the railing of the staircase and its steps.
  • We can say that the assembly is complete. It remains only to additionally process all the joints in order to avoid burrs and chips, as well as to install the fence slats on both beds and lay the cross slats to support the mattress.

How to assemble a pull-out podium bed?

The podium bed is one of the varieties of transformers, however, this furniture differs from them in that it does not turn into another piece of furniture by itself, but when folded becomes part of the room as a whole. The podium is an artificial elevation that serves as the floor in the room.

When you are going to start assembling, you need to realize that making such a complex structure is, although a very practical solution, but at the same time such work is very difficult. To install such furniture, you should contact a specialist.

If the services of a specialist are not needed, then here are some assembly tips:

  • First, you need to draw a sketch of the future podium - along with a built-in bed. To do this, you need to know as accurately as possible the dimensions of the room, the height of the bed frame, its width and length, the height of the mattress that will be used for sleeping, as well as the height of the wheels with which the bed will roll out of its "storage".

Instead of wheels, you can use a special mechanism, but its installation must also be taken into account in the calculations, since its parts make the bed somewhat wider. In no case should you choose the height of the bed frame close to the opening from which it will be removed, in order to avoid getting stuck and other problems with operation.

  • As soon as the sketch is finished, everything is measured to the nearest millimeter, it is necessary to start choosing the materials from which all the elements will be created. When creating such structures, you should pay attention to additional strengthening of the podium supports - in order to avoid collapse. It is recommended to use plywood or MDF as a podium floor, since they have the necessary strength, but at the same time are not very heavy.

  • After choosing the materials, you can start assembling, but before that you need to dismantle the skirting boards, since they will definitely interfere with the installation of the frame. At the initial stage, according to a previously drawn up sketch, it is necessary to assemble a frame in which space should be left for the bed itself, storage space for other things, as well as stairs. The next step in the assembly will be the bed frame, also created from the sketch. After all the manipulations, all that remains is to assemble the storage boxes, sheathe the podium frame with plywood or MDF and attach a ladder.

Everything. The podium bed is ready.

Homemade model with a lifting mechanism: step by step instructions

As is the case with any other bed - the assembly of this model must be started by creating a drawing. The more detailed and better it is made, the easier it will be to assemble the bed. It is hard to learn, easy to fight. If there is no experience in assembling such beds, then you can take ready-made drawings on the Internet or from manufacturers.

So, the drawing is ready, it's time to decide on the necessary materials and tools. For assembly, you will need boards, wooden slats, chipboard (chipboard), self-tapping screws with a set of screwdrivers and a lifting mechanism. Unfortunately, making it with your own hands is extremely difficult, so you have to buy it. The lifting mechanism is gas and mechanical. The gas mechanism can be fixed in a certain position and without.

Once everything you need is assembled, you can proceed to the most important thing - to the preparation of parts and assembly:

  • First, it is necessary to make sidewalls, drawers, headboards, and also bottoms for boxes from chipboard or MDF.
  • From a bar, you need to assemble a frame for the base.
  • Then the base for the mattress is created - from boards and wooden slats.
  • A frame can be assembled from these parts. Once the frame is assembled, the bed is almost complete. It remains only to attach the drawers and sidewalls, attach the bottom of the drawers and fix the headboard.
  • The final touch will be the installation of the lifting mechanism and the sheathing of the finished product. For sheathing, it is best to use a sheet of foam rubber, laid in several layers. This will add softness and comfort to the garment, as well as hide any sharp corners.

You can cover the foam rubber with a cloth or other materials - such as leatherette or leather. The main thing is that the selected material matches the general interior of the room. This will give the bed an aesthetic look and completeness.

How to make a round bed correctly?

Round beds, although they are interesting interior solutions, are still not installed in apartments very often, since not everyone can afford to install such a piece of furniture in the center of the room, where it belongs. In the corner, he will "eat" free space.

As before, preparation should begin with a drawing, the most important detail of any business. It is necessary to match the size of the room in which the bed will be installed with the future dimensions of the bed itself. Most often, round models are made double.

Having decided on the dimensions and having prepared everything you need, you can start making parts and assembling:

  • To begin with, two semicircles must be cut out of two sheets of MDF or plywood using special measuring tools - the future base for the bed.
  • On the finished circle, a cross is attached specially assembled from bars equal in length to the diameter of the base, on which the legs are installed and another cross, crowning the bed frame.

  • After the preparation of the crosses, additional legs are installed around the perimeter of the circle, designed for better stability of the bed.
  • After these manipulations, the frame is turned over - and we can say that its assembly is complete. The last step in the creation will be the installation of the sides for the mattress made of thin plywood, as well as covering the finished product with foam rubber (for softness) and fabric (for beauty).

Decor options

As mentioned above, the assembly of the bed largely depends on the imagination of the assembler and his ability to pay, which gives a lot of options for the final product. If we talk about decoration, then in this regard, the number of options is simply enormous. The main thing is to be able to choose the appropriate method. It takes good taste for that.

With the help of various decorative figurines, inlays, imitation of precious stones or real jewelry, carvings, combinations of different types of upholstery and other options, even the simplest bed can be turned into a work of art. Even simple leather or leatherette can completely change the look of a bed. If you add a carriage coupler there, the result will be simply amazing.

In decorating, you should not go too far, as in any other business, otherwise all the efforts made will lead to pretentiousness and loss of beauty of the finished product.

In addition to the types of beds described above that you can create with your own hands, there are also quite unusual ones - and very interesting for use in the interior.

One of these non-standard solutions is a bed made from plastic bottles. Of course, this is not the pinnacle of art, and the convenience of such a design is highly questionable. However, if you equip such furniture with lighting, and use the bottles as many legs under a real base under the mattress, then it can turn out very, very good.

Loft-style beds are non-standard, but gaining popularity in the modern world. By itself, this style implies the design of the entire room in the form of a workshop or factory room, so the bed must be appropriate. You can, for example, hang it from the ceiling so that it stays there on a special structure until the appointed hour. At night, the bed is lowered and used for its intended purpose. An interesting frameless solution, you won’t say anything.

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The furniture market in our country is quite saturated with models of domestic and foreign production, in the manufacture of which various materials and components are used. Nevertheless, there are situations when, for some reason, there is a desire or need to make something with your own hands from improvised or initially required materials. A do-it-yourself bed made of wood - step-by-step instructions for making a single, one-and-a-half and double models, as well as a bed-house and using a lifting mechanism - this is the topic of this article in the online magazine HomeMyHome.

Wood is an environmentally friendly material, so it is in demand in the manufacture of furniture for various purposes.

When making your own furniture, a very important point is the correct selection of the type of wood, because not all of them are equally good both in work and in future use. All tree species are divided into three categories:

  • Soft - conifers, linden, alder and aspen.
  • The hard ones are birch, oak, beech, ash and larch.
  • Particularly hard - acacia, yew and boxwood.

In addition, different breeds differ in cost and availability, therefore, when making furniture yourself, you should also pay attention at this point. Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the required tools and devices, material and necessary accessories, as well as mechanisms, if any. The next step will be the development of a sketch or drawing of the manufactured product with the study of the connection nodes of individual elements, as well as options for decorating wooden surfaces.

DIY wooden bed - step by step instructions

All work on the independent production of a wooden bed can be divided into several stages: preparatory, manufacturing and assembly, decoration and finishing.

Preparatory stage

During this period, the dimensions of the manufactured piece of furniture are determined, and since a mattress is placed on any bed, its perimeter must correspond to its dimensions.

For your information! The sizes of factory-made beds are regulated by the requirements of GOST 19917-2014 “Furniture for sitting and lying. General technical conditions ".

Based on the requirements of GOST and the size of the mattresses produced, the dimensions of the bed produced must correspond to the following values, namely:

Important! Custom-made furniture may differ from standard sizes, in which case the mattress and bedding must also be ordered (manufactured) individually.

Related article:

: for a garden, a nursery, a kitchen, a bath, a garden, a gazebo; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and advice from experts - read our publication.

Making a special wooden bed

Sometimes there are such cases that it is necessary to have a bed of a non-standard shape or design, these include the following: and a bed-house, with a lifting mechanism and other technical devices.

How to make a bunk bed with your own hands at home

The steps for making a bunk bed are exactly the same as in the case of a conventional design, the only difference is that the two berths are located one above the other.


As a rule, a bed of this design is intended for children, therefore, during its manufacture and installation, special attention should be paid to such points as:

  • the quality of the materials used - they must be able to create a strong and reliable structure;
  • fixing the bed to the floor, and also, if necessary, to the wall should exclude the possibility of tipping over during use.
For your information! To climb to the second tier, a different staircase design (attached, attached, etc.) can be used, which depends on the location and availability of free space, as well as the author's abilities of the developer.

Making a house bed with your own hands

A house bed is also an option for arranging a sleeping place for a child, which can be one- and two-tiered, depending on the number of children in the family, as well as the idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bdesigning such an element of furniture.

There can be a huge number of design options for a bed of this type, and only the financial component of this process and the design abilities of the designer of the structure can become limitations. Depending on the gender of the child and his interests, the bed-house can include sports equipment and playgrounds, a work or school corner. Due to the significant overall dimensions, it is difficult to place beds of this type in a room of standard sizes, therefore, as a rule, owners of suburban real estate and large apartments turn to such furniture.

Features of making do-it-yourself beds with a lifting mechanism

For owners of small apartments and studio apartments, the issue of effective use of the usable space is very important. One of the options for rational use in this case is the purchase and operation of a bed with a lifting mechanism.

For your information! The lifting mechanism installed in the bed structure allows expanding its functionality, adding to its main purpose (rest-sleep) one more thing - storage of things and bedding.

A bed with a lifting mechanism can be made independently, while you should be aware of some of the nuances of the work, which can be formulated as follows:

  • the dimensions of the internal space must meet the requirements for them (the volume depends on the height of the legs and the width of the side walls of the product);
  • the convenience and reliability of its operation depends on the type of the selected lifting mechanism;
  • the strength of the lifting mechanism should correspond to the size and weight of the bed;
  • the fixing structure of the lifting mechanism (vertical or horizontal) must meet the requirements for the bed.
For your information! There are three types of industrial hoists: manual hoist, spring system and hoist with gas shock absorber.

When making with his own hands, the master performing the work himself chooses the type of lifting mechanism, as well as the materials used for the supporting elements of the structure and its decoration.

Article

The average person spends almost a third of his life in a dream, and his activity in the waking state depends on good rest at this time, and therefore, success in business and personal life. The quality of a night's rest largely depends on the comfort of the position of the body during sleep, which should be provided by a comfortable bed.

Nowadays, in the assortment of furniture stores, you can pick up almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary piece of furniture, but for various reasons it is far from always possible to purchase a model that suits all parameters. Therefore, the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and save a decent amount at the same time.

Variety of bed models

Before choosing a bed model for manufacturing, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them in order to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, furniture designers and constructors have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.

The main difficulty of the self-manufacturing process mainly lies in the preparation and processing of structural parts, since for these operations it is often simply necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, in order to decide on the creation of this piece of furniture, it is worth first of all to consider some models of various levels of complexity, made from different materials.

Bed with drawers

The bed, equipped with drawers, can be single, one-and-a-half or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there is usually a large number of toys and items for various developmental activities. This design is convenient in that it is possible, without cluttering the room with unnecessary furniture, to create a place for storing various things. Moreover, by pulling out such drawers, you can immediately see all the contents, and not delve into the jungle of a massive deep cabinet, where it is sometimes difficult to find the right thing.


A bed with drawers is a great solution for a child's room

By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated than the usual one, where free space is left under the berth. The main thing is to draw up high-quality drawings, put down the correct dimensions in them, process all the parts intended for assembly well, carefully assemble them and find accessories that are easy to use. In this case, the sliding elements should have an easy move, freely move out and slide in, and for this you can pick up special side guides or fix small wheels on the bottom of the box.

Hanging bed

This original version of the bed is not so difficult to manufacture as it might seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be met for the effective functioning of this structure is the sufficiency of free space, since the bed is designed to swing in a certain amplitude range.


The bed itself consists of a frame - a frame and lamellas, but it must also be taken into account that all parts must be made of high-quality material and securely fastened together. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high a load on the supports. A mattress, which sometimes has excessive unnecessary weight, should have the same quality.

Metal bed

A bed made of a metal corner, rod, strip and fittings is available for execution only by an experienced welder, but this option will last a long time without repair and will not bother you with a creak. A metal bed is especially well suited to a certain style of interior, for example, retro, empire and even modern.


Such a "work of art" is available only to an experienced master

Stable and heavy in weight, the structure nevertheless looks light, almost weightless, so it will perfectly fit into any environment and become an element decorating it. For many, metal causes negative associations due to rust, which can leave ugly stains on the mattress and bedding. You should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technology, varnishes and paints have been developed that will protect not only bedding accessories from rusty stains, but also the metal itself from this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not bend, since the frame has sufficient rigidity and solidity.

Bed-wardrobe transformer

A bed that turns into a wardrobe is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this version, the berth should be easy to clean and imitate a wardrobe or cabinet.


They can be of various sizes, imitate a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow chest of drawers with a table top. The latter option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, reserve bed - in case guests arrive. In addition, this structure is sometimes installed in a loggia or on an insulated balcony, because in the summer it is so pleasant to relax in the fresh air.


Bed-curbstone - always ready reserve bed

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of such a model is to choose the right lifting mechanism, and, of course, it is good to process all the details of the structure so that it can be easily installed and removed, without distortions and jamming.

Podium bed

Another bed option that will help save space in the conditions of small areas of modern apartments is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the sleeping place will not take up a single extra centimeter in the room, since the bed is removed for the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a useful area, for example, by equipping it for a workplace.


It is also not so difficult to make such a model, but a lot of high-quality materials will be required for the bed and the podium, and the work itself will take a lot of time. However, the result will surpass all expectations, since the exit will not only have a comfortable sleeping place, but also an original interior design.

In addition to the beds mentioned, from the popular, often chosen models, one can name such as a structure with a lifting mechanism, an orthopedic frame, bunk beds, with a frame made of wooden slats, a sofa bed and others. Some of them will be discussed below in more detail, with the accompanying illustrated instructions for their manufacture.

Find out by examining the two available options in a special article on our portal.

We make a bed with our own hands

Double wooden bed


Wooden double bed "classic" type

This is an ordinary bed of standard sizes, made from natural wood, which can be processed by yourself, bought ready-made or sent to a carpentry workshop for precise cutting and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, you will need the following materials:

  • Pine timber for a box and legs with a section of 50 × 50 mm, a length of 2200 mm - 15 pieces.
  • Pine planed board 2000 mm long, 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
  • Joiner's glue or PVA for furniture.
  • Self-tapping screws for 65 and 40 mm.
  • Metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.

The frame being made is intended for a mattress with a size of 2000 × 1600 mm, therefore the inner space should have dimensions of 2100 × 1700 mm, and when measured along the outer edge - 2200 × 1800 mm.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration
Since the box for the bed frame must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a wall width of 50 mm, the timber must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.)
To do this, the sides are coated with carpentry glue, the bars are laid on top of each other, compressed in clamps and left to dry completely.
Further, the resulting glued blanks must be adjusted to size.
So, to assemble the box, you will need two side panels (drawers) 2200 mm long, one 2100 mm for the middle longitudinal lintel, and two end drawers 1610 mm long.
In order to obtain a reliable lock connection at the corners, 50 mm are measured at the edges of the sides, on the upper and lower bar of the blanks - these fragments must be carefully sawed off and removed without affecting the middle bar of the panel.
On blanks for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar, and then carefully removed.
Then, the protruding middle parts of the side bars are coated with glue and installed in the gap formed between the two bars of the box end panels.
After that, they need to be squeezed in clamps and left to dry completely.
You can do it in a different way by applying the connection of the ligation of the bar. In this case, the bars are glued into a box already cut.
To do this, the first row of timber is laid out on a flat floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its lateral sides should be 2100 mm, end - 1500 mm.
The end parts of the side panel timber are coated with glue, and the bars of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed with self-tapping screws.
The corners of the rectangle are set using a construction square, and checked by measuring the diagonals - they must have the same length.
Further, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, in which the length of the side bars is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm.
Its ends are coated with glue, and it is placed between two bars of the sides, and then fixed.
Then, the middle row, in addition to gluing, is fixed to the lower one with self-tapping screws.
In the last, top row, the timber has the same dimensions and is laid in the same way as the first lowest row. The bar is glued, screwed on with self-tapping screws and left to dry.
This assembly method is more difficult, since in the absence of the appropriate experience from the master, the corners can go awry.
The next step is to fix the middle element of the structure - a jumper glued from two bars 2000 mm long.
Before fixing the lintel, the bed box is turned over, the end sides are marked from the inside in order to accurately find their middle.
The jumper on the bottom must be aligned with the level of the box.
Then, on the bottom row of the box beam, in the designated places, thrust bars 150 mm long are screwed on. They will support the central longitudinal partition.
For joining with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower beam of the lintel. Fastening is done with glue and self-tapping screws.
As a support, you can also use a metal corner with a shelf of 50 mm - corresponding holes are drilled in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the crossbar.
The finished lintel will become an additional base for the boards laid on top of the bed frame.
The model of the bed under consideration has 4 legs in the corners - it is also convenient to fasten them immediately with self-tapping screws or bolts now, while the bed box is in an inverted state.
The legs will be pieces of the same beam 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or through bolts, and it is additionally recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners.
The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be chosen arbitrarily, but it usually ranges from 200 to 300 mm.
The shorter the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but on the other hand, the low height makes cleaning difficult.
In addition, so that the center does not sag, it is necessary to fix additionally one or two supports of the same height to the middle jumper - then the structure will have higher rigidity and reliability.
The middle support legs can be fixed in different ways. This illustration shows an option when the legs are fixed with bolts on both sides of the lintel.
After the glue has dried in the joints of the supports, the bed box is again turned over to its normal position and installed on the already mounted "standard" legs.
Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are marked along which a beam or board with a width of about 30 ÷ 40 mm and a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 mm will be attached.
This will be the support for the subsequent installation of the ceiling boards.
The support flanges should be positioned so that they are flush with the center lintel. Usually they are guided by the gluing line of the upper bar of the sides of the box - if everything was carried out correctly, then compliance with the general level will be ensured.
The next step is to lay the boards on top of the prepared support shelves.
They should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise unpleasant squeaks may appear during the operation of the bed.
Therefore, a gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side must be maintained between the walls and the boards.
The flooring does not need to be made solid at all - the boards are laid out at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other.
The boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the supporting shelves, and in the center - to the longitudinal lintel.
At each attachment point, two self-tapping screws 40 mm long are screwed in.
To avoid the appearance of cracks at the edges of the boards or on the shelves on which they rest, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes for the self-tapping screws with a small diameter drill - 3 mm.
After completing the installation of the boards, you need to revise all surfaces of the structure.
If necessary, remove protruding glue drips, large burrs, etc.
Go to finishing the assembled bed.
First you need to bring all surfaces to a perfectly smooth state.
For such wood processing, it is better, of course, to use a belt sander, eccentric or vibration type, on which sandpaper with the desired grain size is sequentially installed, ranging from 80-100, and ending with 280-400.
In the absence of a special tool, you can use an electric drill by installing a grinding attachment on it.
If the wood was processed using power tools, then after them you need to carefully examine the product, since it is possible that in some places you will have to finish the work manually.
After completing the sanding work, the finished bed must be well cleaned of dust and small sawdust, that is, prepared for coating.
If the product is immediately varnished, then the parts must first be primed.
If the wood is darkened with a stain, then it is used first.
The coating process is done with a brush or spray.
Further, if you plan to emphasize the textured pattern of wood, then after the stain dries, they are again passed over the surface with sandpaper.
It is advisable to cover not only from the outside of the bed, but also from the back, invisible to the eye.
The fact is that the stain is to a certain extent an antiseptic and is able to protect wood from "traditional" pests - microflora or insects.
The next step is to varnish the product.
For this, it is best to use water-based formulations, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment.
Such varnishes do not have a poisonous odor, are environmentally friendly and dry quickly enough, and after drying they give a pleasant matte sheen.
To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply several thin coats of varnish. Moreover, subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
The finished bed, finished with stain and varnish, should look something like this.
In the intervals between the coatings of the bed with varnish, while the next layers dry out, you can make a full-fledged or improvised back.
In this case, the backrest day panel is made of planks and mounted in the form of a decorative grille.
It will require three boards 100 ÷ 120 mm wide, 1600 mm long, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces 400 ÷ 460 mm high.
The lattice is also sanded and coated with the same compounds as the bed itself.
In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress.
The last step is to fit the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for use.

Double bed with installed lift mechanism

Another option for a double bed is a model made with chipboard. In this design, unlike the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. The advantage of this bed can also be called the ability to usefully use the closed space under the berth, since the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily raise the wooden frame without removing the mattress.


The disadvantages of this model include its massiveness, which makes it impossible to install it in a small room. In addition, chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, since it is made using binders, which can often release toxic fumes into the environment, which is completely unhealthy for humans.

It should be noted that when choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for effective ventilation of the room in which it will be located. And for the manufacture of bed parts, chipboard panels should be purchased that have a formaldehyde emission class - E1.

So, to make a bed with a standard mattress size 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, you need to prepare the following materials:

  • Chipboard sheet 16 mm thick and 3500 × 1750 mm in size.
  • Two sheets of fiberboard 5 mm thick, standard size 2745 × 1220 mm.
  • Beam with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
  • Board 10 ÷ 15 mm thick, 60 mm wide - 20 m or 10 mm plywood, 1525 × 1525 mm in size.
  • Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
  • Self-tapping screws, bolts.
  • Metal corners.
  • Sheathing fabric, 1500 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
  • Sintepon 1600 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
  • Foam rubber 2 sheets, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm in size.
  • Staples for staplers 8 ÷ 10 mm.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.

A. Chipboard 16 mm thick is used to make:

- headboard - 1 piece, size 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have right angles;

- side panel of the box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;

- end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;

- internal partition - 1 pc., 2010 × 280 mm.

B. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm, fixed in a box:

- longitudinal elements fixed on the side panels - 2 pcs., 2010 mm long;

- transverse piece fixed to the end panel - 1 pc., Length 1810 mm.

- racks with a height of 100 mm - 4 pcs.

V. Details from a bar of 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of a lifting frame:

- longitudinal elements of the inner lathing - 5 pcs., 2005 mm long;

- transverse details of the inner lathing - 2 pcs., 1805 mm long.

G. Plank or sawn from plywood (10 mm) lamellas 60 × 15 × 1805 mm - 11 pcs.

D. Sheathing of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of fiberboard 1650 × 2330 mm each.

Having made all the elements necessary for the assembly of the structure, you can proceed to the sheathing and assembly of parts.

IllustrationBrief description of the performed operation
If the headboard has a rounded shape, then the template for it is first made on paper, and then transferred to the chipboard and cut out with an electric jigsaw.
It is very important to take into account that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - this will make the structure more rigid.
Usually, at the junction of the floor and the wall, there is a plinth that has a certain width. Therefore, in the upper part in the center of the headboard, a special support element is fixed from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth. With its help, it will provide an emphasis on the back against the wall.
You can do it differently by removing the section of the baseboard from the place where the bed will be installed.
Next, the box and headboard parts are tried on at the installation site.
Then, the exposed panels of the chipboard box are fastened together at the corners using pieces of timber or metal corners.
The headboard panel is not yet attached, as it must first be covered with fabric.
On the fixed panels, parts from a bar are tried on.
Lamellas are tried on across the timber laid on the chipboard, and their location is marked.
The next step is the head of the bed is sheathed with foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and staples.
The foam is leveled and first secured to the front of the panel.
Then, its edges are wrapped and shot with staples from the back of it.
From above, the foam rubber is covered with the fabric selected for this. It is recommended to purchase a dense material that can repel dust.
The sheathing work is carried out starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam rubber on the back of the headboard.
The covered backrest can now be installed in its permanent place.
Further, the frame of the lifting frame is manufactured.
Its parts are assembled and fixed with metal corners.
All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, starting from the middle of the structure.
The middle bar should rest on a chipboard partition fixed in the bed frame.
Having assembled the frame, it is temporarily set aside.
Further, both from the inside and from the outside, the walls of the box are sheathed.
At first, a synthetic winterizer is also fixed on them with the help of a stapler, and then the same fabric as the head of the bed was previously sheathed.
In the next step, the elements of the lifting mechanism are marked and fixed on the frame.
Further? the frame is tried on on the box and the place of installation of the bar on the side panels of the box is marked, on which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed.
Then, the beam is fixed, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the structure is tested.
The timber is fixed on the chipboard using self-tapping screws 50 mm long.
Their caps must be sunk into the wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
After that, lamellas are fixed to the frame, across the bars, with the help of self-tapping screws.
When folded, the lifting mechanism looks like this.
It is located in the formed niche between two bars.
In the illustration presented, you can see a semicircular cutout made in the central partition.
This space is necessary for the free lifting of the frame grille.
Further, the structure must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work.
The next step is to prepare sheets of fiberboard, which will be sheathed with the bottom of the bed box.
This will create a complete cabinet suitable for storing various things.
Sheathing can be carried out using staples or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide caps.
After installing the bottom part, the bed is lowered and set in place.
In this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks fixed on the side internal beam.
Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side beam, but also at the corners of the box.
They are mounted at the same height and are necessary for rigid support of the movable frame when it is folded.
For the convenience of raising the frame together with the mattress laid on it, loops sewn from fabric or peculiar handles are fixed in its front part.
They are screwed with two or four self-tapping screws with wide caps to the end beam of the frame.
A bed with an open mattress looks like this.

Single bed

This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or teenager, since it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any piece of furniture installed in a bedroom or children's room, you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material for this product.

single bed


Dimensions in these drawings are in inches, 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented sizes into the units familiar to domestic craftsmen.

This table shows the manufacturing process of this simple bed model:

IllustrationBrief description of the performed operation
For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts are required, which are listed in accordance with the diagram shown in the illustration:
- A - legs. To manufacture these parts, you will need a 2 × 2 ″ (50.8 × 50.8 mm) bar. The height of the headboard timber - 33½ ″ (851 mm) - 2 pcs., For the footboard –17¼ ″ (438 mm) - 2 pcs.;
- B - the back and front walls of the bed box, as well as the wall located at the footboard, are made of a board with a section of 1 × 9¼ ″ (24.5 × 245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½ ″ (1918 mm) - 2 pcs., footboards - 39 ″ (991 mm) -1 pc.
- C - longitudinal beams for flooring, made of 2 × 1 ″ (50.8 × 25.4 mm) planks with a length of 75 ″ (1910 mm) - 2 pcs .;
- D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 ″ (25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39 ″ (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.;
- E - lower headboard piece 1 × 6 ″ (25.4 × 152 mm) - 1 pc. and an upper part with a section of 1 × 9¼ "(25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., the length of both parts is 39" (990.6 mm). In the future, a curly back will be cut from the board prepared for the upper element.
The first step is to make construction details and assemble them into separate sections, from which the bed will be mounted.
The most difficult part in terms of shape is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curvilinear shape, but also must have a perfectly finished top and bottom edge. The specified dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an impromptu compass, the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make a so-called pattern (pattern) on paper, and then transfer the shape to the board.
Then, sawing with an electric jigsaw, processing the edges with a milling cutter and grinding with a grinder or manually.
It is very important that the surfaces are brought to a perfectly smooth condition, as they will not be sheathed with fabric or other material.
In addition to this detail, the bottom panel for the headboard is cut out. It is much easier to deal with it, since the most difficult task will be to cut off the edges evenly, and then process them well.
Then, legs with a height of 851 mm are cut from a bar with a section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm.
They also need to be well processed and cleaned.
After that, on the sides of the bars, which will be turned inward, markings are made to connect them with the crossbars.
In order for the assembly of the headboard to be neat and to have strong connections, you can proceed according to the presented scheme.
For this, 2 ÷ 3 holes are drilled in the bars and end sides of the boards for each of the elements.
Next, dowels 80 mm long and 8 mm in diameter are prepared.
Then the dowels and abutting end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue.
Further, the dowels are carefully driven through the beam into the transverse parts of the headboard back.
If the process is carried out in this way, then the joints on the outside of the legs are closed with a wooden strip, which is fixed with glue, and the leg is squeezed in clamps for the period of drying.
Provided that the covering decorative slats are glued, on the outside of the legs, landing grooves are left for the side panels of the bed (drawers). In this case, they are attached to the side of the legs, which is the most durable connection.
If it is not planned to attach additional linings that cover the dowel joints on the leg, then the holes in the bars are not drilled through, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm.
Then, also with the help of glue and dowels, the headboard parts are connected together.
This assembly method is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a careful approach and precise work, it is quite feasible.
Next, the legs and the footboard are made.
The height of the timber for them should be 438 mm, and the size of the panel is 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm long.
The connection of the footboard parts is carried out in the same way as in the headboard section, that is, using dowels and glue.
The next step is to connect the side panels (drawers) with the headboard and footboard sections.
They can be secured in different ways.
The most common option is metal corners. They are screwed to the tsars and legs with self-tapping screws.
In addition to metal corners, there are special parts to connect these parts, called bed ties or hooks.
With their help, the side panels are hung on the legs of the headboard and footboard.
If hooks are used for the connection, then the structure will be collapsible.
The next step to the side bars is to fix the support shelves or elements made of timber or docks.
They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall.
Glue is applied to the timber, then the part is aligned on the tsar and pressed against it with clamps.
When the glue is completely dry, the parts are screwed in with self-tapping screws.
In the next step, prepared boards are laid out and aligned on the bars fixed to the sidebars.
When the lamella boards are fixed to the bars, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity.
Each of the boards is screwed on with two self-tapping screws on both sides.
Holes for self-tapping screws are marked by drilling (3 mm).

The options for beds presented above can be considered the most affordable for self-production. In order for the work to be effective, it is necessary to prepare well for it by equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. Having fulfilled these conditions and performing all technological operations carefully and without haste, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture that will last for many years.

Video: DIY bed making master class

Many amateur carpenters can make various pieces of furniture from wood. These skills are especially useful if the desired model was not found in the furniture store, or it is very expensive. Consider what kind of bed you can make with your own hands.

Popular models

Making the right choice of furniture is not easy. To make it yourself, you should soberly assess your skills. Do you have enough skill to complete the process you have begun?

After reviewing various photos of the bed on the Internet, you can choose the desired model and start making it. Not all modern furniture can be made on your own. You should choose the simplest options, since the more complex the furniture, the more serious you will need a tool for its assembly.

The best DIY bed ideas are those that do not require a serious technological process. Such models can be made by most novice carpenters.

In order for the process of processing materials and structural elements to be of high quality, and most importantly, it is necessary to quickly purchase power tools.


Built-in drawers in the bed

A bed of this design is divided into several types with a different number of berths. It is well suited for a children's room, since a large number of different toys and other things can be placed in the drawers.

Hanging bed

The design is easy to manufacture. An important condition for placing a bed is the availability of free space in the room. The design feature of the product provides for slight lateral swaying.

Components must be of adequate quality, like all fasteners. The wood is not used of the highest density, then the product will be light.

Metal structure bed

The design is highly reliable. The bed will not need repair for a long time, and during operation there will be no squeaks. Not everyone can make such a model on their own. The frame has considerable weight, but is quite stable.

Transforming bed

In a small apartment, a transforming bed will look relevant. It easily folds into the inner space of the cabinet, and is just as easy to make on your own. A special folding mechanism should be purchased, but it may be difficult to install such a bed.

Podium bed

Significantly saves space in a cramped apartment. The design is reminiscent of a podium with a built-in bed. It has a retractable type, so it can be folded during the day, and the podium space can be used for various needs.

Bed making process

First you need to prepare sketches for making a bed with your own hands. Consider the process of assembling a classic double bed.


It will be based on natural wood, it is not difficult to process it at home. As a last resort, you can use the services of a workshop. There they will help to make a high-quality cut of the tree.

A double bed will require the following set of materials:

  • The legs and the box are made of pine. You will need a cross-section of a beam of 50x50 mm, and a length of 2200 mm (15 pieces);
  • 22 pcs - boards. Length, width and thickness of each - 2000x100x20 mm;
  • Adhesives - PVA furniture, carpentry glue;
  • Fasteners - self-tapping screws;
  • Metal corners - width 50 mm.

The inner size of the main box should be 2100x1700 mm. After downloading do-it-yourself drawings and sizes of beds from the Internet, we proceed to assembly.


Assembly sequence

The height of the box should be up to 200 mm, and its sidewall width is 50 mm. Therefore, you need to glue several bars. Joiner's glue is applied to each side, and each piece is held together in a group of up to 4 pieces.

The glued bars are adjusted to the required dimensions. Side workpieces should have a length of 2200 mm. The central longitudinal lintel is 2100 mm, and two end panels are 1610 mm each.

Corner joints are made like a lock. For this, the upper and lower bar of 50 mm are cut. The central bar is cut on the end piece. Further, the joints are processed with glue and driven into the groove. The stages of making and assembling the bed should be carefully followed.

Then the central transverse lintel is mounted - 2000 mm. Thrust bars are installed on the underside of the box. The central longitudinal partition will rest on them.

Legs are mounted in the corners, fastenings are made using screws and bolts. To prevent the center from sagging, several more props are attached to the jumper located in the middle.

Additional shelves are mounted on the sidewalls of the frame in order to lay overlapping boards on them. After them, the flooring of the beams is made, but so that they do not lie tightly to each other.

The last step is surface treatment. This is a brief instruction on how to make a bed with your own hands.

Finally

In order for the bed to turn out to be of good quality, and to serve for more than a dozen years, you need to select the right materials. A novice carpenter should know what is the best way to make a bed frame. Larch or birch can be used as a reliable and durable material.

In the process of making furniture at home, you need to have good tools. The installation of parts should be carried out carefully, and slowly, then you can enjoy the process, and the end result will be pleasing to the eye.

Do-it-yourself bed photo

Currently, furniture stores offer a wide variety of furniture, including wooden beds. But the prices, frankly, bite. There are at least three reasons for making a wooden bed with your own hands. This means saving money, an opportunity to realize your design ideas, as well as irreplaceable pride in the fact that he himself has made a useful, beautiful and necessary thing.

Making furniture with your own hands is not an easy task, it requires a certain skill, knowledge and experience, but you should not be afraid to implement it. If the necessary tool is available, the necessary materials are purchased and there is a firm decision that a wooden bed will be made with your own hands, then you should get down to work without putting it on the back burner.

Required tool

Making a wooden bed with your own hands requires tools such as a circular table saw, an ordinary and rubber hammer, a grinder, a square, a chisel, a tape measure, a screwdriver, an electric drill. Materials are also needed: wood stain, varnish, wood putty, screws, sandpaper, wood glue.

If there is no circular table saw and grinder, then you can do without them - a hacksaw and a bar with sandpaper. But it will be difficult to achieve professional quality wood processing. It seems that if you make a wooden bed yourself with your own hands, and then some other piece of furniture, then you will get a taste and try to purchase these rather expensive, but important tools for high-quality wood processing. Then you will see for yourself how much faster and better your work will be with their use.

Mattress

The main part of the bed is the mattress. Therefore, you have a choice:

Purchase a mattress of the right size and characteristics in the retail network (now a great many ready-made products of this kind are offered) and make a bed for its size;
- first make a bed, and then order a mattress of the required size for it.

Both options are eligible for implementation depending on your personal preference. In addition, there is an option to make the mattress yourself. But in this article we will not dwell on it.

In any case, it must be borne in mind that the dimensions of the space for the mattress in the bed frame should be 1-2 centimeters larger (both in width and length) than the dimensions of the mattress. This is due to the fact that it must fit freely in its box, and when it is loaded, it necessarily expands somewhat to the sides.

Another feature: it is advisable to arrange the bed for the mattress so that it protrudes from the frame by 4-8 cm and does not move when using the bed.

Drawing

So, your goal is to make a piece of furniture such as a wooden bed with your own hands. The drawings you need to achieve your goal are easy to find in specialized literature. Much depends on your design decisions, because a do-it-yourself bed should differ from the purchased ones by some kind of "zest". But this is a master's business. We will consider a conventional model consisting of legs and a frame. Its dimensions are coordinated with the dimensions of the mattress, as indicated above.

The width of the bed depends on the number of berths and the degree of freedom you wish. Usually a single bed has a bed width of 90 cm, a double bed - 170-200 cm. The length of the bed for an adult is from 170 to 220 cm. The height of the frame is 30-50 cm. You set the specific dimensions yourself, based on your preferences, height and others. parameters.

Lumber

To complete the frame of a large double bed, you will need:

  • timber 10 x 10 cm, length 2.6 m;
  • timber 5 x 5 cm, length 2.6 m - 2 pcs.;
  • boards 2.5 x 7.5 cm 2 m long - about 12 pcs.;
  • boards 5 x 15 cm, length 2.6 m - 5 pcs.

Choose the type of wood yourself. Beech, oak, mahogany, walnut are suitable for making a bed. But this wood is expensive. The most suitable and inexpensive option is pine.

Manufacturing

A wooden bed, made with your own hands, must be strong and reliable. We start manufacturing from the legs. We cut off from a bar with a section of 10 x 10 cm two bars with a length equal to the height of the bed, for the back legs, we cut the rest into two parts of the same length - for the legs at the head. We mark on these parts the places of the grooves where the longitudinal boards of the frame and the transverse boards for attaching the legs will be inserted. The size of the cutouts is 15 x 5 cm. Make sure that the grooves are perpendicular to the length of the bars. We process the upper part of the legs - we remove a 1 cm chamfer at the end of the bars.

We calculate the length and width of the bed. The length is equal to the length of the mattress plus 7 cm. The width is equal to the width of the mattress plus 12 cm. Cut off from the boards 5 x 15 cm two parts with a length equal to the length of your bed, and three parts with a length equal to its width. We carefully grind the surfaces of the legs and frame parts. We assemble the frame, starting from the transverse sides of the bed, and then connecting them with longitudinal boards. We fix it with wood glue and fix it with screws 8-10 cm long.

To the inner part of the longitudinal sides of the frame, we attach the base for the transverse boards with screws. It is cut from a bar with a section of 5 x 5 cm. They must be fastened at such a height of the longitudinal boards of the frame so that, taking into account the transverse boards laid on them, the mattress bed is deepened by at least 2-3 cm. 2.5 x 7.5 cm, cut to fit the inner width of the frame. They must be distributed evenly along the length of the frame and fixed with screws to the base.

An alternative way of fastening these boards, which gives greater structural strength, is to fasten the transverse boards of the mattress base not horizontally on the base bars, but vertically. In this case, you can do without bars with a cross section of 5 x 5 cm, and fasten with metal corners, as shown in the figure on the right.

Final steps

So, the bed frame is assembled. The surfaces should be carefully sanded with a sander, the places where the surface was damaged can be treated with wood putty, allowed to dry and sanded again. After sanding, remove the dust with a dry cloth and vacuum cleaner (do not use a damp cloth - the surface will lose its smoothness). After that, treat the surfaces with a stain, you can dry it several times between layers to obtain the desired darkness and color saturation. Then the surfaces can be varnished (matt or glossy - of your choice). To obtain a high-quality surface, the varnish must be applied in three layers.

Put the mattress back and your bed is ready.

To give the bed a unique look, you can customize it by complementing the frame with headboards of your design.

Use clamps when attaching parts to glue. For the manufacture of backs, you can use solid pine, chipboard or MDF sheets with a thickness of 30 mm. To make the backs decorative and convex, they can be covered with a layer of foam rubber up to 15 mm thick, attached with a construction stapler, and draped with a cloth. This is how an exquisite wooden bed is made with your own hands.

Photos of options for designer beds made by craftsmen and amateurs can be found in large numbers in special literature. Above are just a few examples. They can lead you to your own ideas for giving your bed a unique look.

DIY wooden bunk bed

The photo also shows examples of bunk beds. Such designs are very convenient to save space in the room. The special meaning of making them with your own hands is that in the retail network there is no such variety of them as ordinary beds, and it is much more difficult to buy the option you need. These beds are very comfortable for teenagers.

There is a great benefit from having a wooden baby bed made by you. It is easier to do with your own hands than for an adult - after all, it does not require special strength and durability. And according to the manufacturing technology, it differs in size and in that it is necessary to complete the backs and side parts that protect the child from falling out of the bed.

We hope that the material given in the article on the topic "Do-it-yourself wooden bed" will give you the determination to do this work and will benefit your family.