Do-it-yourself drums: step-by-step instructions, device, tips. DIY electronic drums Mayonnaise bucket drum

To evoke and develop interest in music in your baby, you need some kind of musical instrument. For children, a handmade gift will be much more valuable than a gift bought in a store. The drum will be the simplest and most understandable instrument for a child. How to make drums at home to create indescribable delight in a child? Consider a few simple manufacturing methods.

Tin can drum

An idea with no cost and no special skill required. How to make a drum?

So, let's get down to the implementation of the craft called "drum". We will need:

  • tin can;
  • colored matter, and in its absence, colored paper;
  • a piece of leather, laces from it;
  • glue, wooden sticks and cotton wool.

Tool making steps:

  1. We glue the jar with colored cloth, if not at hand, then we use colored paper.
  2. We outline the bottom of the can on a piece of leather, add another 10 cm in diameter and draw another circle.
  3. We pierce the holes, not forgetting to step back 1 cm from the edge of the skin.
  4. We thread leather laces through the holes, tightly tighten on one side of the tin. We do the same with the bottom of the can. Then we skip the cords diagonally, which should go under the lower and upper laces.
  5. You need sticks to beat the drum. We take them, put them on the bead, glue a tight ball of cotton wool on top of the bead, without leaving a void.

Drum - coffee can

The simplest way to make a drum is to find a coffee tin. Such a jar with a nylon lid can be found in every home. Begin:

  1. We glue the lid with the jar itself so that it does not fly off.
  2. On one edge of each stick, we wind cotton wool tightly with glue, making a ball.
  3. The main difficulty is the tape for the drum, it is necessary to tie it around the can so that it does not slip and fits very tightly to the can. A bow or belt from your favorite dress is ideal for this.

A plastic bucket with a lid is also a drum.

How to make a drum so that it can even be painted with paint or decorated with some intricate decor? It all depends on your imagination and your child. You can even make a professional drummer out of the kid by making several instruments from buckets of different diameters, and then you get a whole drum kit. Sticks can be ordinary pencils or felt-tip pens.

The lids of these buckets are very tight, so you don't need to do anything with them. Hanging it around your neck will not be difficult: remove the bow and thread the ribbon through each hole and tie it. Do you think you can think of a better drum than this one? Not unless he's real. But it costs so much and difficult materials that it is better for the child to play this drum for now. Ease of manufacture, sound - all this makes it the best do-it-yourself drum.

Corrugated drum

How to make a cardboard drum? It is not intended for play, most likely, for various decorations. Used as a craft, exhibit in kindergarten. It looks very nice, but such an exhibit will not last long with your child.

Drum as a Christmas decoration

To stand out for originality, bring a fake made with your baby. Among the monotony of products: from Christmas tree decorations, various snowflakes, your instrument will fit beautifully. You need to decide what size the future drum will be.

  1. Normal size, then it can be placed under the tree.
  2. Small in size, then you can put it in your hands with some kind of soft toy.
  3. Large, then it can be used as a museum piece.

Drum made of paper

How to make a paper drum? This requires paper, cotton swabs, an empty roll of scotch tape, wire, thread and your imagination. It is also worth noting that the thicker the paper, the better the drum will sound. A4 paper is good, but not quite thick, so a landscape sheet may be ideal, it uses a thicker material, which, by the way, withstands moisture and dampness better. Glossy paper is the worst performing paper, since the sticks can slide off when you hit it, from which the sounds will be distorted.

Children adore music, as well as everything that we, adults, are ready to classify as noise, including unbearable noise. They knock on pots and pans, plastic panels, and on the table. We suggest that you combine a lesson in creativity with quenching the child's passion for the manifestation of his musical talents. The site will tell you how to make a drum with your own hands for children's games.

So, to make a drum, you need:

  • a can of coffee with a plastic lid (a prerequisite, for example, you can take from Nescafe Classic);
  • yellow self-adhesive film (can be replaced with colored paper, ideally - glossy);
  • some thin felt of the color of coffee or coffee with milk;
  • a bit of crimson felt;
  • crimson thread;
  • elastic;
  • scissors;
  • glue stick;
  • transparent glue (like "Gel Moment");
  • 2 wooden sticks;
  • 2 foam balls;
  • blue thread.

We make a drum with our own hands:

Remove the lid from the jar and set it aside. We wrap the jar with yellow paper, outline the boundaries for cutting, cut out the desired shape and stick it on the jar.

Using transparent glue, "draw" lines diagonally from top to bottom and bottom to top, forming triangles. Do this procedure around the entire perimeter of the future drum. If you find it difficult to do it "on the go", first outline the lines with a simple pencil, and only then use glue.

Take raspberry yarn and, following the lines on the side of the drum, apply it to the glue strips, gently pressing the threads into the glue for better adhesion to the surface of the homemade drum.

Cut the thread when you reach the end.

Cut a circle out of coffee-colored felt: to do this, take a lid, attach it to the felt spread on the table and trace along the contour. You need to cut out a circle, on each side adding 2 cm to the one you drew with the lid.

Close the jar with a lid. Apply transparent glue along the lid and along the top edge of the can close to the lid. Cover the can with the now cut coffee felt mug and slide the rubber band on top. Gently pull the felt in different directions so that it lies as flat and tight as possible.

Cut two strips of raspberry felt about 1 cm wide, the same length as the circumference of the jar. Glue these strips along the bottom of the can and over the rubber band holding the coffee felt.

Now it's time to make sticks for the drum.

To do this, take wooden sticks of a round shape in cross-section. Insert each stick into the ball so that it only slightly enters it, but is relatively tight in it and does not come out on the other side.

Now take out the sticks and cover the inside of the hole with transparent glue. Reinsert the sticks and leave to dry.

Then cover the balls with a layer of PVA glue and wrap the top with a blue thread until you completely cover the ball.

Put a little glue under the ball on the stick and also wrap them with thread. Cut the thread and smooth it with your fingers over the glue so that they do not shag.

Before playing a DIY drum, it is important to wait until it is completely dry!

Tips for DIY Toy Drum Making:

Before you put a lid on the jar and glue felt to it, you can make holes along the edges of the jar and insert a cord or tape into them to put a homemade drum around your neck.

You can make the drum in a different color.

Be sure to leave the drum to dry overnight or even overnight. Otherwise, it may fall apart at the very first game - it will be very disappointing ...

As you can see, making a drum for a child with your own hands is simple and fun!

Zoya Preobrazhenskaya specially for the site I am a young mother

2012,. All rights reserved. In case of full or partial use of site materials, an active link to the source is required.

17 Oct 2015

Not every aspiring drummer has the opportunity to buy a drum kit. But how does one learn to play without a musical instrument? Of course, you can buy an acoustic installation, but in this case it is absolutely clear what the reaction of the neighbors will be. Therefore, the best option is a homemade drum kit, namely an electronic modification.

Description

So that after the electronic installation you do not have to get used to the acoustic one for a long time, it is recommended to modify it as much as possible. For example, you can cut off the hard pad option right away. Last but not least is the issue of price. But after a long study of the forums, it becomes clear that it is much more profitable to make a drum kit with your own hands than to buy a ready-made one.

The M-Stand company from St. Petersburg is engaged in the production of mobile stands, light boxes, promotional stands, printing posters, etc. You can order stands on the website http://www.mstand.ru.

Let's get acquainted with all the intricacies of a homemade drum kit.

Module

The main criteria for choosing a module for installation are flexibility of settings, connection to a PC and an acceptable price. In this case, the winner is MegaDrum, which requires self-installation.

It is worth noting that on the forum you can get answers to all questions that may arise during installation or work.

Although the MegaDrum can be assembled on its own, it is not always within the power of a novice drummer. Therefore, it is best to purchase the All In One v3.2 PCB 56i and Syntex kit. So you can build a 56-input module based on the Atmega644. While this is a bit more expensive, it has its advantages:

  • You get all the parts at once. This is very important, because not every store offers everything you need.
  • To facilitate the assembly of the elements, markings were applied to the printed circuit board.
  • "Stitched" PIC and Atmega with a protective bootloader.

By assembling the module in this way, you speed up the installation process and reduce the number of potential errors.

After that, you can buy a plastic case, jacks, buttons, additional connectors and piezics with a diameter of 20, 27 and 35 mm. The last step is to download EZDrummer. Since the module is quite easy to install, you will succeed the first time.

At first glance, it might seem that 56 entries are overkill. In such a case, you can defer the 24-entry fee. Please note that wood feather drills are best suited for drilling holes in plastic - this way you get neat and even holes.

Kadushki

Now the process of making a drum kit with your own hands has moved on to the drums. Some people decide to use a flexible tree. But since this material is very rare, and the price bites, it is best to refuse this option.

Therefore, it is recommended to use fiberboard. Since it is quite difficult to cut the sheet evenly at home, you can order cutting directly at the hardware store. In this particular case, it was 3 strips 1220 * 110 mm. In order to bend them, the strips should be placed in a bathroom filled with warm water. If the stripes begin to sink, this is a signal that they have absorbed enough water.

Since the fiberboard deforms when it dries, it is recommended to use the following method. Take the pots, twist the strips around them, and then secure them with wire or another means at hand. As a result, you will get perfectly round shells.

Hoops, bottoms and logs

The third step in creating a homemade drum kit is installing wooden hoops. Since it is quite difficult at home to cut a perfectly round hoop (especially if there is no experience in such work), it is recommended to contact the printing house.

However, before placing an order, ask the manager if the printing house is equipped with a laser machine for cutting plywood. If so, you can safely send them the prepared drawings.

After receiving the order, you just have to grind, stain and varnish the workpieces. Note that staining may be required three times for the required saturation. Metal corners can be used to secure the bottoms.

Trays and sensors

Because extruded acrylic is affordable and moldable, it is great for making plates. It should be noted that acrylic itself is quite fragile, so the recommended thickness is 5 mm.

To soften and damp the blows, you can glue the "Moment" porous rubber. After that, all that remains is to paint the plate. But be careful not to accidentally stain the rubber, as well as the mounting location of the sensor and dryers.

The sensor can be glued to the plate using 2mm double-sided tape. In turn, hot melt glue can be used for the jack. By the way, the scotch tape will come in handy when attaching "jammers", that is, 2 flexible plates made of foil-clad PCB.

To prevent the cymbals from spinning during the game, you can go for a trick: drill several small holes along the edge and thread plastic ties through them. The tails themselves can be secured with a clamp on the rack. As a result, the cymbal does not spin and the vertical quality is preserved.

Summing up

Although the process of creating a drum DIY installation quite time consuming, the result is worth it. In addition to the above materials, you also need 3 important ingredients: desire, patience and time.

Despite the fact that the cost of a home-made installation is quite high, it will still cost less than a ready-made acoustic one.

Related entries:


There are no similar materials ...

Teaching your child to music from a very young age is a great idea! Children's craft for kids in the form of a drum from a tin can is a simple and easily realized idea that will introduce the little one to the world of musical instruments.

Almost any fantasy of a child can be realized without high costs and running around the shops of children's goods, and toys made with their own hands will delight kids for a long time.

For manufacturing you will need:

  • round tin
  • bright cloth or colored paper
  • a flap of skin or leatherette
  • laces made of leather or leatherette
  • glue gun
  • all-purpose fabric adhesive
  • hole punch for leather
  • wooden sticks

Manufacturing process:

1. Cut out a patch of brightly colored fabric to a suitable size and glue it over a can. The fabric can be replaced with variegated colored paper.

2. Place a jar on a piece of skin and outline. Add 10 cm to the diameter of the can and draw another circle.

3. Using a pencil, mark the places where the holes will be along the radius (make an indent from the edge 1 cm). Punch holes with a leather hole punch.

4. Thread the leather cord through the holes. Tighten firmly on one side of the can. Repeat the same for the bottom. Additionally, go for a leather cord diagonally, threading it under the lower and upper laces.

5. The last step is the drumsticks. Combine a wooden stick and a knob bead. Glue a cotton ball over the top of the bead, leaving no empty spaces to create a drum stick.

Joint creative activities open up space for the flight of children's imagination and the development of imagination and thinking. Encourage the child's desire to create crafts with his own hands - such a pastime contributes to all-round development, reinforces many useful skills and just brings joy.

Prepared by Mariana Chornovil

"If a person has golden hands, it doesn't matter where they grow from!" (with) Russian radio

It all started with a strong desire to play drums and practice at home, not just at the rehearsal room. I already had a homemade simulator for practicing at home. But knocking on rubber bands and felt without hearing "normal" sounds got bored with time. Creative itch and engineering education pushed me to look for something else. Installing an acoustic drum kit at home would be inadequate. An apartment in a panel high-rise building with all that it implies, as they say ... Therefore, I stopped at the option with an electronic drum kit. And I really wanted to electronic drum set it would feel as much like an acoustic one as possible. Option with hard drum pads was discarded at once. But the drums with grids - it seemed very interesting!

The price issue was also not the last one. Having studied the materials of various forums for drummers, I realized that it is quite possible to make a drum kit that you want yourself.

Further - drum module... Which? Conditions: home use, flexibility of settings, connection to a computer and the price, of course. In the end, the choice was reduced to a purchase Alesis Trigger IO module and the MegaDrum module requiring self-assembly. Defeated MegaDrum.

When I first learned about MegaDrum and got acquainted with this project in detail, then, to be honest, I really liked it and aroused my sincere admiration! Particularly captivating (in a good way) is the reverent attitude and attention of Dmitry Skachkov to his brainchild and a very informative forum where you can get answers to almost any questions regarding the module. Taking off my hat!

Below I will try to tell you in detail and in an accessible way about how I made my electronic drum kit and what nuances and difficulties arose in the process. Some things and solutions were not invented by me and are described in various forums. So this article (among other things) is an attempt to combine your own and others' practical experience.

DRUM MODULE

As I indicated above, the MegaDrum module is used as a midi-converter. At first I wanted to build it from scratch, but then I leaned towards the All In One v3.2 PCB 56i Kit. The kit allows you to assemble a 56-input electronic drum kit based on the Atmega644. Yes, it came out more expensive, but the advantages outweighed:

  • all items are "in one package". This is important, because it is not always possible to purchase everything you need at once and in one place;
  • Prefabricated 2-layer printed circuit board with markings to facilitate assembly of elements;
  • already "flashed" PIC and Atmega with a protected bootloader.

All this contributed to the fastest assembly electronic drum modules and reduced the likelihood of "jambs".

The payment was made by a payment card through PayPal. After 2 weeks I received a parcel post from France. The package bundle and quality corresponded to the declared (and expected too).

There were no problems during assembly. Soldered with a low-power soldering iron (25 W) with a thin tip. Solder in the form of a wire with a diameter of 1 mm with a flux inside. At the end of the soldering, the flux splashes were washed off with a brush and a PCB cleaner.

It took about a week to solder. soldered after work in the evenings, when the household cleared the kitchen. The kitchen with an extractor hood is unambiguous!
As soon as the editing was completed, there was a desire to check whether the animal was alive. Plugged into USB and ... Works !!! At least the system (I have WinXP SP3) recognized the device and the display showed information that it was MegaDrum and copyright D. Skachkov. The next step was to check the inputs and buttons.

At the weekend I went to the radio market in Kardachi. They bought a plastic case of a suitable size, jacks, buttons (I decided not to use those in the set), additional connectors (for connecting drums and cymbals for drums) and ten pieces of piezics with a diameter of 35, 27 and 20 mm. Just in case, I took it with a margin (and as it turned out, not in vain).

Returning home, I quickly soldered the cable with the piezoelectric and the connector. I connected the MegaDrum, loaded the EZDrummer program and started to plug the jack with the piezic into the module connectors one by one. I couldn't believe it myself, but EVERYTHING worked! It seems like it should have been, but in the depths of my soul I was expecting some kind of joint. And then - I collected it, connected it and here's your happiness!

I didn't need 56 inputs. 32 was enough even with plans for the future. Therefore, I postponed the payment with 24 inputs. I made markings on the body and drilled holes for the connectors. For the USB connector, I had to work with a jigsaw to cut it out. I decided not to use the midi connectors.

For drilling relatively large holes in plastic (more than 5 mm), use wood-based pen drills. This will create smooth, neat holes, not torn holes.

I managed to spoil the "native" front panel of the case, having drilled holes for buttons of a larger than necessary diameter by mistake. Swearing, I thought about how to make a new one. The office that deals with outdoor advertising came to the rescue. I drew a drawing of the panel in Adobe Illustrator and emailed them. For 20 UAH ($ 2.5), a new socket was cut out of 2 mm acrylic with a laser with all cutouts for screws, buttons and LCD. Looking ahead, I will say that they also made round blanks for cymbals for drums from 5 mm thick acrylic.

In the same Adobe Illustrator, I made a drawing of the front panel. Printed on photographic paper and laminated. Then I cut the holes and glued them with double-sided tape to the acrylic panel. Here's what happened in the end.

During the final assembly of the module, I did become a victim of my carelessness. Plugged the keyboard connector into the encoder connector by mistake. After launching, I tried unsuccessfully to get to the settings using the buttons. But it doesn't work! As a result of my chaotic button presses, I turned off the display contrast to zero and stopped seeing anything at all. Climbed to the forum to ask the eternal question "What to do ?!". The jamb was discovered the next day. The connector was plugged in where it should be, after which everything worked out. Contrast and settings have been restored. Hooray!

DRUMS

  • Kadushki

After assembling the module, it was the turn of the drums. It was decided to make drums of standard sizes, namely: bass drum and snare drum - 12 inches, toms - 10 inches. Such dimensions were chosen in order to obtain the optimal ratio of such parameters: the quality of removal, the possibility of installing firm nets, dimensions and ease of play.

Initially, I wanted to cut PVC pipe tubs of appropriate diameters. And very soon I realized that everything is not so simple! It was very expensive to buy pipes of such diameters and lengths of 2-2.5 m, and pipes with a length of 1 m exist only in price lists. None of the suppliers saw them live. Those. the situation is like in the Soviet joke about toilet paper. It seems to exist, but it is impossible to buy.

Again the same question: what to do? On bourgeois forums, people solve a problem using a flexible wood. The thing, of course, is useful, but for our region it is still exotic. It seems like a couple of companies in Kiev began to supply this so-called. "flexible plywood", but the price ... And bending shells from ordinary plywood at home is still a hassle. In the end, I decided to try to make tubs from fiberboard. After all, I’m not acoustic drums was going to do.

It was not possible to cut evenly a sheet of fiberboard at home. Therefore, I went to the nearest "Epicenter" and bought a sheet of fiberboard 2440x1220 mm with a thickness of 3.2 mm. I also ordered sheet cutting into strips of 1220x110 mm.

Because the thickness of the material was 3.2 mm, then when using 3 layers, the shell wall turned out to be about 10 mm, which seemed to me to be quite sufficient.

I put 3 strips of fiberboard in a bath with lukewarm water. After 15 minutes, the stripes began to sink. This was a signal that the fiberboard has absorbed enough water and is ready to bend.

It should be borne in mind that fiberboard strips during the drying process receive various internal stresses and deform. If you just twist the strip into a roll, securing it along the edges, then the result will be an egg-shaped spiral. And it will not work out of it to glue a perfectly round tub. The strips should be dried by wrapping something around it and securing it tightly. I used 2 saucepans of the correct size. More for snare and kick drums, less for toms.

In turn, I rolled the strips into rolls and laid them inside the pan for a minute (so that they could remember the shape a little). Then, one after the other, he tightly wound it on the pan, joint to joint. On top, I also tightly wrapped it with nylon twine and left it to dry for 4 days.

After 4 days, I removed the "bagel" from the pan and wrapped it with twine around the ring, leaving it to dry for another 3 days.

So, the blanks for the tub are ready. Can be cut and glued. Next, I will describe the process of making a tom shell.

The first layer is the outer one. If the shell has an outer diameter of 10 inches (254 mm), then the length of the first strip should be 798 mm (L = 2 * Pi * R). To accurately measure the given length, I took a flexible sewing meter and using an accurate tape measure put a mark on it (you cannot believe the graduations on the sewing meter). Having fastened one end of the meter to the strip and wrapped it tightly around the workpiece, marked the desired length. I cut off the excess with a hacksaw for metal.

It is not necessary to calculate the exact length of the second (third) layer using the formula corrected for material thickness. It is enough to estimate the length with a small margin, and cut off the excess during the gluing process, when the actual length is clear. The "seams" of the layers must be opposite each other.

For gluing the fiberboard, I used moisture resistant B3 glue. It is similar to PVA but becomes tougher as it dries.

First, I missed a small area with glue at the junction of the outer layer, covered it from the outside and from the inside with pieces of the previously cut strip and clamped it with clothespins on both sides. After 30 min. took off his clothespins and glued the right half of the ring, holding it with clothespins. Leave to dry for 40 minutes.

During gluing, it is very important to make sure that the edges of the strips do not climb over each other!

Then he took off the clothespins and cut off the excess glue from the edges with a knife. I firmly pressed the left half of the inner strip and determined how much to cut off so that later it would stick to the joint with the right one. Cut it off. Then I glued it in the way described above. I did the same with the third strip and left it to dry overnight.

The next day, I sanded the sides and edges, rounding the top (under the mesh). Next, I made markings for the holes for the screws (fastening the lags and the bottom) and the connector (jack-mother).

I decided to decorate the tubs from the outside with the help of a self-adhesive film "under a tree". So that the film adheres well, I covered the tub with water-based varnish in 3 layers with intermediate sanding, leaving the upper part about 7 mm wide intact. Accordingly, the film was cut 7 mm wide less than the shell height. The indent is needed so that the mesh does not tear off the film when pulled. I impregnated this indent with wood varnish and sanded it. In general, I would like to note that after the fiberboard was impregnated with glue and varnish, its properties began to resemble a piece of wood.

The rest of the shells were made in exactly the same way.

  • Hoops for drums, bottoms and logs