| 1. Growing temperature: the optimal temperature range is from 20 to 25 °C throughout the year. |
| 2. Lighting: depends on the specific variety, aglaonemas with green leaves can be grown in partial shade, with red ones - only in good light. |
| 3. Watering and air humidity: regular and abundant watering and high air humidity with good circulation. |
| 4. Care: Provide support for tall varieties, trim off wilted leaves. |
| 5. Priming: nutritious, with good drainage. |
| 6. Top dressing: during the entire growing season - 2 times a month. |
| 7. Reproduction: stem cuttings, root shoots, air layering or seeds. |
Botanical name: Aglaonema
Family. Araceae.
Homeland of the plant, origin. Aglaonema is an ornamental houseplant of the aroid family, grows in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia.
Description. The name "aglaonema" comes from the Greek aglaos (bright) and nema (carving). The genus includes 21 species of perennial herbaceous plants, from 15 to 70 cm in height, depending on the species and variety, with a thick, short, fleshy erect stem up to 1 m tall. The bare stem bears traces of fallen leaves and is almost invisible in young plants. Often there are small tubercles on the stem - these are the rudiments of aerial roots. Plants that are quite common in indoor culture.
Leaves leathery, juicy, dense, spear-shaped, large - about 20 cm long, located at the top of the stem on long petioles, attractive with a variety of patterns and various shades of green, sometimes with spots.
Aglaonema blooms luxuriantly, but flowers inconspicuous, collected in an inflorescence - a cob, from which small fruits may appear - berries of orange, red or even white. Each ear can remain open and attractive for up to 2 weeks. To prevent plants from wasting energy on flowering, buds are often pinched as soon as they appear. The fruits are poisonous!
Height. Potted Aglaonema grows to 80 - 90 centimeters in height and 50 centimeters in width. Growth rate is highly variable between varieties and the final size of plants will depend on varietal characteristics and maintenance conditions.
2. Propagation of indoor plants
Throughout its life, the plant produces side shoots And basal suckers, used for vegetative propagation in spring or summer.
- Cuttings of aglaonema are best done in a special heated container, in vermiculite.
- Often cuttings take root even in a simple glass of water. You can even plant stems that have taken root and do not have leaves - they will begin to grow from the awakened lateral buds and will produce additional shoots from the buds that are located underground.
- Such stem cuttings should be placed horizontally, lightly sprinkled with moist soil - this will make the plant more lush, because leaves and roots will appear in each dormant bud.
- The successful completion of the rooting process will be indicated by the appearance of signs of new growth - young shoots.
Many varieties of aglaonema propagate seeds And air layering. Seeds germinate in 25 - 30 days. For propagation, only freshly collected seeds are used.
Large adult specimens breed division, which is carried out in the spring, during transplantation. The bushes are divided in such a way that each part ultimately receives its own, well-developed root system and green ground part.
3.When does aglaonema bloom?
In indoor culture, usually flowering aglaonema is a rarity, flowering period February - November.
The onset of flowering in indoor plants of this type indicates good care and health of the plant.
4.Aglaonema - home care
4.1.Soil
Well-drained, loose, moisture-permeable soil made from leaf humus, coarse sand, peat, heather soil.
The substrate must have good drainage and easily allow both moisture and air to pass through to the plant’s root system.
4.2.Watering
Abundant watering During the warm period, young potted plants will be especially appreciated. In winter, the frequency of watering is reduced, but without allowing the earthen clod to dry out..
The flower suffers from excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pot.
Excess water drain from the pan within a few minutes after watering.
Water only with warm, soft water; the frequency will depend on the temperature and the degree of illumination.
4.3.Growing, how to prune
Aglaonema is enough capricious and often does not forgive violations of agricultural technology.
The plant does not tolerate low temperatures well - it curls the tips of the leaves and does not like cold drafts.
During the winter months, plants often develop some yellow leaves at the base.
For high grades may be required support for growth.
Plants will appreciate periodic bathing. in the shower in the warm season.
It is worth carrying out in a timely manner topping old, yellowed leaves.
So that the plant does not waste its energy on the formation of flowers - the appeared buds At once delete. Pruning is carried out only with a sharply sharpened and sterile instrument.
In the summer months you can take the flower to Fresh air, placing it in a place where it will be protected from direct sun, strong gusts of wind and rain.
4.4.Lighting
Green-leaved varieties shade-tolerant and are suitable for poorly lit rooms, they can get burned if exposed to direct sunlight.
Variegated varieties when grown at home, especially red, need more sunlight than green.
If aglaonema lacks sunlight, use artificial lighting fluorescent lamps.
4.5. Fertilizer of aglaonema
Flowers in pots have a limited feeding area and need regular feeding.
In summer every 2 weeks we feed the aglaonema with flower fertilizers with a minimum amount of lime; We do not feed the plant in winter.
4.6.Temperature
House flowers grow well at room temperature, during the period of intensive growth - 20 - 25° C. Minimum temperature in winter - not less than 15° C, although for a short time it can withstand a drop of up to 10 ° C.
The flower comes from tropical latitudes; it does not require a winter dormancy period, although it is welcome.
The plant does not like sudden changes in temperature and intense summer heat (more than 26 ° C).
4.7.Air humidity
Loves regularly ventilated rooms, however, without cold drafts.
Aglaonema prefers high air humidity and regular spraying with soft water, but only tolerates dry air for a short time.
A flower pot can be placed in a tray with wet pebbles or sphagnum moss; a room humidifier or a decorative fountain can also be used to increase humidity.
5. Diseases and pests
- Gray rot appears due to too cold conditions.
- The plant does not tolerate tobacco smoke - it causes yellowing of the foliage.
- Also, the leaves of Aglaonema at home turn yellow when wrong mode watering and insufficient lighting.
- The plant rots when overwatered, especially in the autumn and winter months, and also in case of insufficient drainage. Such specimens are transplanted into a new substrate, and during transplantation they carefully examine the roots and cut off old and rotten roots with a sharp knife.
- Leaf blades dry out and their edges become brown and brittle when there is insufficient air humidity.
- Leaf spotting.
- Foliage curls and leaf edges turn brown if the plant is exposed to drafts or kept in too cold a room.
- Aglaonema becomes loose and elongated, and the leaves lose bright shades in low light conditions.
Harmful insects - scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites and aphids if not kept properly.
Insects - pests
| Insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development | Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm. | |
| Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik. | |
| Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed. | Traditional methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm. | |
| Scale insect and false scale insect | Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. At widespread Scale insects cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development | Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon. |
6. Transplantation of aglaonema
Replant as needed - approx. once every three years, since the plant grows quite slowly.
Do not use a pot that is too large - aglaonema grows best when its root system cramped.
Try not to disturb the root system again and use transshipment along with a lump of earth.
Mature plants that form a trunk when transplanted are placed horizontally- at the same time, dormant buds wake up on the stem and each of them forms its own leaves. As a result of this procedure, you can get a chic, lush plant.
Planting in fresh soil is carried out in the spring when the plant wakes up and shows readiness to develop.
7.Purpose
Beautiful evergreen decorative plant, pretty unpretentious flower for home keeping, develops well in a light, warm and moist closed flower bed on the window.
8.Note
Do not grow this plant in homes where there are children and animals, as its juice and berries poisonous.
After 3 - 4 years, the plant begins to lose its lower leaves, exposes the lower part of the shoots and becomes untidy - it needs update. Replace it with a young bush by cutting and rooting the top.
Aglaonema grows best in tropical " flower window» at constant temperature and air humidity.
These decorative leafy bushes are capable of clear the air indoors from many harmful impurities - for example, formaldehyde and benzene.
From time to time you can notice small transparent droplets on the leaves - the plant seems to " crying"There is nothing wrong with this - it’s just that at this time the flower is kept in high air humidity or the weather outside is cloudy and rainy.
9.Hydroponics
Aglaonema is grown effectively hydroponically.
10.Types of aglaonema:
10.1.Aglaonema commutatum
One of the most common species of this genus. An evergreen herbaceous perennial of small height - about 50 - 60 cm. The leaves are variegated, striped, thick, spear-shaped, shiny, the main tone is dark green, have an attractive silver marking along the main vein, the length of the leaf blade ranges from 10 to 30 cm, width - from 4 to 10 cm. The leaves are located on short, erect, sometimes branched, glossy green stems, reaching two meters in height for several years. This aglaonema blooms rarely, the peduncles are tall - up to 20 cm, the flowers are axillary with a pale green veil, collected in an inflorescence - a spadix, usually appear at the end of summer - until the beginning of autumn. The flowers are small and inconspicuous, reminiscent of small greenish-white callas.
The fruit is a yellow oval berry that changes color to bright red, less than 1 cm in length, which gives the plant additional decorativeness. The plant resembles Dieffenbachia in appearance and is used as an ornamental foliage plant. An easy-to-care plant that prefers loose, rich soil and plenty of watering. Varieties of aglaonema changeable differ in the color of their leaves; it is worth remembering that the more pronounced the variegation, the more the plant needs light.
10.2. Curly Aglaonema or Robelena - Aglaonema roebelenii
An evergreen perennial, about 1 m high. The stems are densely covered with long, elliptical, hard, leathery leaves with silver-gray veins and dark green edges on short petioles. The length of the leaves ranges from 20 to 30 cm, the width is between 8 and 13 cm. It is grown mainly in greenhouses and winter gardens due to its large size for its variegated leaves. The flowers are relatively long, greenish and not particularly noticeable. They attract more attention when they turn into red berries. Aglaonema curly requires warm conditions throughout the year and diffused light or partial shade; it does not tolerate direct sunlight.
10.3. Aglaonema Maria - Aglaonema Maria
An evergreen ornamental foliage plant with oblong dark green leaves covered with light green transverse stripes. It is resistant to low light levels. It successfully tolerates short droughts and is successfully grown under artificial lighting.
10.4.Aglaonema Silver Bay
A large plant - a bush reaches 1 m in height. The large leaves of this plant are distinguished by a light green or silver-gray base tone and a darker edging of the leaf blades. This plant tolerates a wide range temperature conditions and grows well under artificial light. Aglaonema Silver Bay tolerates both short droughts and floods.
10.5.Aglaonema Crete
This variety is also called “red aglaonema” because of the distinctive color of the leaves - they have a salmon or pink edge and spots of the same color scattered on the leaf blades. The underside of the leaf blades is also painted pink. A very stylish, elegant plant. Aglaonema Crete does not like bright lighting.
10.6. Aglaonema painted tricolor - Aglaonema pictum
A spectacular ornamental, slow-growing subtropical houseplant. This variety has large, glossy, narrowly oval leaves. Leaf blades are dark colored green tint with lighter green and almost white spots, reminiscent of camouflage. With age, these flowers form strong stems covered with light brown bark. Even adult specimens remain compact and often do not exceed a height of 30 cm.
10.7. Aglaonema pseudobracteatum
Narrow-leaved aglaonema with dark green, glossy, pointed leaves on long, relatively thin petioles. The surface of the leaf blades is abundantly covered with light green and white spots, and the central vein is highlighted in green.
10.8. Aglaonema ribbed - Aglaonema costatum
Slow-growing, large-leaved bushes up to 60 cm high with oblong, pointed leaves up to 20 cm long. Leaf blades are emerald green or very dark, almost black, the central leaf vein is highlighted in a lighter shade.
10.9.Aglaonema oblong-leaved - Aglaonema marantifolium
Perennial evergreens with oblong-elliptical glossy leaves on long, thin petioles. The leaf blades are dark green, with small light green and transverse stripes. Plants are tall and can reach a height of 60 cm.
10.10.Aglaonema modest or moderate - Aglaonema modestum
These plants are considered one of the most useful in the house - they are able to effectively cleanse the polluted atmosphere of many harmful impurities. In addition to its benefits, this plant surprises with its attractive appearance - it has broadly lanceolate, glossy, entire leaves, colored dark green. Variegated varieties are distinguished by the presence of light green and white spots and stripes.
10.11. Aglaonema shiny - Aglaonema nitidum
Decorative foliage perennial, which, unlike its brighter counterparts, can develop well in partial shade. The leaves retain their color even in very low light; the plant looks good when grown under fluorescent or phytolamps.
This variety has large, oblong-oval leaves on long petioles. With age, these flowers form a strong trunk. The flowers are small, collected in cobs, surrounded by orange stalks.
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A flower called aglaonema is an amazing ornamental plant of tropical origin, which has been successfully cultivated and actively grown by flower growers. In addition to its charming appearance, this home “pet” is unpretentious to its environment, which especially attracts lovers of home greenhouses. With the help of such a foliage flower, you can easily decorate shady corners of the room, since it does not need abundant sunlight.
There is a claim that Aglaonema is popular only because of its beautiful patterned leaves; the inflorescence spadix and the spathe around it do not play any role. However, this opinion is quite controversial, and for many connoisseurs of green indoor oases, this sophisticated plant with harmonious combination oval foliage and original pale green flowers seem to be a real masterpiece of Mother Nature.
Types and varieties of aglaonema: photos, names and descriptions of popular varieties
A more detailed description of the exotic aglaonema will allow us to form a general idea of its external parameters. The herbaceous structure of the bush of this plant does not exceed 75 cm in height. The massive stem is densely decorated with leathery, heart-shaped leaves. The color of the foliage crown surprises with the abundance of various combinations of green shades that create a variety of chaotic patterns. If favorable conditions are provided, you can admire the flowering, which, despite the absence bright colors, attracts the eye with its grace and charming simplicity.
The sophisticated cob-shaped inflorescence of the indoor ornamental plant Aglaonema in pale yellow or soft green tones is neatly wrapped in an elegant blanket. Such flowers gradually give way to bright red berries, which add a special piquancy to the bush.
Carefully! The flower contains substances that irritate the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, you should avoid direct contact so as not to damage skin, mucous membranes of the nose and eyes!
The size of the bush and the shape of the inflorescences will differ for each variety of beautiful aglaonema presented in the photo, after studying which you will not remain indifferent to this tropical beauty and will choose a suitable specimen for your home greenhouse:
Modern science knows several dozen species of elegant aglaonema with varieties bred by skilled breeders. Of course, in ordinary home conditions you can find a limited number of them, which is due to the specifics of care, the popularity of certain types and availability in flower shops.
The most famous type is Aglaonema commutatum(Aglaonema variable) with its many varieties. Oval or lanceolate leaves are located on long, powerful petioles; There are gray-green or greenish-cream stripes, spots or specks on the leaf blades.
Take a look at the photo of this common type of aglaonema, and you will certainly find an explanation for the well-deserved love among gardeners. Breeders have been able to develop many hybrid varieties of indoor aglaonema, focusing on the possibility of creating and improving the natural color of leaf blades. Among the popular ones:
Aglaonema University with bright red foliage.
Aglaonema X4 Greg - the owner of glossy leaves with silver veins.
Aglaonema Sricandy- variegated bush.
Aglaonema Tokek – trunk and leaves with pronounced red stripes.
Look at the proposed photos of the indicated varieties of aglaonema, and you will understand that science in combination with the creations of nature can create real miracles - amazing “works of art”:
Smaller view - Aglaonema costatum(Aglaonema ribbed), which is distinguished by wide leaf plates placed on small cuttings. The leaves are decorated with brightly highlighted veins and chaotic spots with careless strokes. During the flowering period, only one peduncle appears, reaching about 15 cm in height, on which a delicate flower-cob can be seen.
Another low species, shown in the photo, with a simple name - Aglaonema modestum(Aglaonema modesta):
This herbaceous bush barely reaches 50-60 cm in height. The color of the leaf blades is not particularly variegated; monochromatic shades of green predominate. The leaves are oval in shape, slightly pointed at the edges. In May, you can surprise with a delicate pale green inflorescence in the form of a cob, wrapped in a blanket. The peculiarity of this indoor plant is its ability to purify the air from harmful substances and, most importantly, destroy streptococcal infections.
A particularly favorite bred aquarium variety of exotic aglaonema is Aglaonema simplex(simple or alpine). Decorative plants are widely used to decorate aquariums with low water levels. The average size of the stems is up to 40 cm in height. They are framed by oblong oval leaves of a single color. In April - June, the bush can bloom with typical cob-shaped inflorescences.
Aglaonema with the original name occupies a special place among tall species Aglaonema roebelinii(curly). The flower received such a flirtatious nickname thanks to its branching deciduous crown, on which each leaf reaches about 30 cm in length. Grayish-silver veins give the leaf plate a special charm and mysterious appeal. A refined spadix-inflorescence of the usual size - about 3-4 cm.
Based on the existing 24 species, dozens of varieties of decorative aglaonema have been created, photos of which with the indicated name will help you understand the main differences and inherent characteristics.
Aglaonema Crete is a variety that changes color depending on age. Thus, the young representative has red leaf plates painted with green stripes and strokes. Only the shade of the central vein remains unchanged. It is always painted a deep red color.
The cold-resistant variety of Aglaonema received a name consonant with the beautiful female name- Maria. The main feature is its unpretentiousness to growing conditions. These may be cool rooms with minimal sunlight. However, in such an environment, the growth rate of the bush is much lower than that of its relatives.
Take a look at the photo of the aglaonema variety with the original name - Stripes, and its variegated patterns on the leaves will enchant you with the unique play of colors:
Experienced flower growers compare the oblong leaf plates with the feathers of tropical birds, which look solemn and elegant thanks to not only the amazing painting, but also the glossy surface.
Aglaonema Silver Bay is considered to be a fairly young hybrid. This flower has large ovoid leaves, the length of which is about 40 cm. The color of the leaf blades has a distinct grayish-silver sheen, as evidenced by the name.
Particularly popular among the low-growing varieties presented in the photo is aglaonema with an interesting name - Fest diamond:
Lush bush It is distinguished by beautiful foliage, which at first is predominantly white with small greenish spots, and after some time the green color predominates on them.
Pattaya Beauty- a hybrid of an exotic plant, widespread in home greenhouses of domestic gardeners. This flower is not characterized by the splendor of the bush, and over time, the thin lower leaves gradually fall off and bring its appearance closer to a palm tree. Another feature of the variety is the change in foliage color: from rich green to darker tones.
Take a look at amazing photos described species and bred varieties of aglaonema, and you will certainly find those options that will attract attention and charm with abundance color combinations, will be delighted by the shapes and shine of the deciduous crown:
Conditions for growing aglaonema under which the leaves of the indoor plant will not dry out
Growing an attractive aglaonema is a simple process, which is explained by its unpretentiousness. The main task is to create conditions that will be similar to the habitat in the wild. First of all, you need to choose the right place where the exotic bush will grow and develop.
Ideal location: west or east window. Here the plant will be in reasonable partial shade without bright sunlight, which can damage its foliage.
However, it is worth remembering that for the variegated representatives of the indoor tropical flower aglaonema, it is better not to choose very dark corners of the room, since they benefit from the sun’s rays to deepen the colors. Otherwise, they will begin to fade and lose their decorative effect.
Resistance to low temperatures makes this plant quite unpretentious. The only requirement on the part of the homemade exquisite aglaonema flower is the absence of differences and sudden changes in temperature. According to experienced flower growers, – from +16 to +25 °С. If in summer period for active growth it is better to maintain a warm atmosphere (+20...+25°C), then in winter it is advisable to give the plant rest and provide the necessary coolness, but not lower than +16°C.
It is important to protect the ornamental bush from drafts, which can not only be an obstacle to flowering, but also damage the leaf crown.
A prerequisite for the normal development of this plant is constantly high air humidity. In a situation where this is not typical for the room where it grows, it is necessary to artificially maintain humidity using dispersive spraying, trays of water or special technical devices - humidifiers. If you ignore this requirement, then the attractive leaves of the aglaonema dry out, and it loses its decorative effect.
An important component of proper cultivation of this exotic bush is professionally selected soil. It is better to choose a flower soil mixture as a substrate. In this case it should be:
- Loose.
- Nutritious.
- Lightweight, perfectly permeable to water.
To prepare the soil yourself, you can mix peat, sand, charcoal and leaf soil in proportions - 1: 1: 1: 2. This combination will accelerate the growth of the plant, providing the necessary nutritional components for all vital processes.
How to properly care for aglaonema and how to make it bushier (with video)
Provide proper care exotic flower Even a novice gardener can grow aglaonema in the usual home conditions, since this plant is an unpretentious “pet.” To achieve optimal results, you need to remember simple rules regarding:
- Soil irrigation.
- Spraying the deciduous crown.
- Soil fertilizers.
The tropical origin of the graceful bush, first of all, puts forward special requirements for proper hydration. It must be systematic; you cannot leave the plant without moisture even for a day. But it is worth remembering that in different life cycles this process should be performed in unequal proportions. According to experts, watering in the warm season should be done with lukewarm softened water; in winter, watering should be done only to maintain light soil moisture. In other words, it is necessary to find a “balance” between drying out the soil and excessively moistening it. Since both situations can adversely affect the condition of the flower.
When choosing a liquid for irrigation, it is advisable to give preference to water that will have the following characteristics:
- Soft.
- Purified or settled.
- Room temperature, but not cold.
- Melt or rain is ideal.
An equally important point for those who want to learn how to properly care for the amazing aglaonema is constantly spraying the foliage during the hot period. This will help not only create conditions similar to the usual habitat of an exotic bush, but will also give its crown greater richness and richness of colors.
For beginners who want to figure out how to make an attractive aglaonema more bushy, it is important to remember the need for regular mineralization of the substrate. So, fertilizing should be done every 4 weeks and only in summer.
Particular attention should be paid to this important process during the period of active flower growth. Ideal for this liquid fertilizers, which can be alternated with mineral and organic components.
The frequency of fertilization also depends on the size of the pot in which the plant grows. The smaller the container, the more often the feeding process should be done. In winter, it is better to exclude soil additives.
Watch a video about aglaonema and the rules of professional care for it from experienced flower growers. It will help you understand existing issues and understand important nuances growing this green “pet”:
Reasons why Aglaonema leaves turn yellow and what to do when diseases appear
Despite its unpretentiousness to living conditions, aglaonema is characterized by diseases that are manifested by such symptoms as:
- Yellowness of leaves.
- Twisting sheet plates.
- Drying of the crown.
- Loss of rich foliage colors.
Each of these “illnesses” has its own causes, and by eliminating them, it is not difficult to achieve complete healing and the desired results.
The reasons why aglaonema foliage turns yellow lie in improper watering or inappropriate temperature conditions. So, if you overdo it with soil moisture, then soon the first signs of wilting of the leaf blades will be noticeable.
By limiting excessive watering, which is one of the main reasons why Aglaonema leaves gradually turn yellow, you can save the plant and give it lushness and rich colors.
Low temperatures can also become a significant prerequisite for the wilting of the bush. In such situations, the solution is quite simple, and to the question of what to do when the leaves of an aglaonema turn yellow, the answer is clear - move it to a warmer room. After a few days, improvements will already be noticeable. It is important that there are no drafts or sudden temperature changes in the room. Since such phenomena also lead to “illnesses” and loss of decorativeness.
Direct sunlight may be another explanation for why tropical aglaonema develops spots and leaves turn yellow. To solve this problem, the first step is to eliminate the unfavorable factor and remove the pot to partial shade.
Pests that cause agleonema leaves to curl and spots to appear
If graceful leaves curl on the aglaonema, then you should pay attention to the level of air humidity in the room. It is the dry atmosphere that can explain this unpleasant phenomenon.
The healing recipe is simple and requires more frequent spraying or water procedures using a shower. This bush of tropical origin will appreciate such efforts and will delight the owners with the splendor of the crown and a rich palette of bright green shades.
Spider mite.
Orange aphid.
Mealybug.
Most dangerous insects for an indoor flower is a spider mite, which is almost impossible to notice with the naked eye. However, the damage it causes is immediately visible. A thin web enveloping the bush gradually leads to yellowing and premature falling of leaves. If measures are not taken to combat it, the green “pet” may wither and die.
As techniques for effective destruction tick, the following procedures must be performed:
- Remove damaged foliage.
- Treat the entire flower with Actellik.
- Systematically ventilate the air in the room.
- Regularly inspect the trunk and foliage crown.
The method of combating aphids covers simple steps:
- Spray the foliage with a solution of pyrethrum or tobacco.
- In case of significant damage, apply karbofos.
- For prevention, treat with soapy water.
But it is worth remembering that if you provide favorable growing conditions, regularly water and fertilize the soil, monitor air humidity, then pests and diseases are a rare occurrence in the life of an elegant plant.
Transplantation and rooting of aglaonema in familiar home conditions
Transplanting young aglaonemas is a procedure that must be performed to obtain such optimal results as the decorative appearance of the bush, variegated foliage coloring and long-lasting flowering. The reasons are quite simple and understandable. In the first years of life, the flower actively grows new stems and buds, its root system increases and it outgrows the pot. If nothing is done, the reverse process will begin and the plant will wither. Therefore, replanting for young plants should be carried out every year, and then every 3 years.
It is necessary to transplant the exquisite aglaonema in the usual home conditions in the spring. During this period, the plant is in an active growth phase, and it is more clearly visible that the container is too small for the rhizome.
To begin with, before the “migration” of the ornamental bush, it is necessary to moisten the soil, which will make it easier to remove it from the pot. The new container should be several centimeters larger than the previous one. It is worth putting drainage at its bottom and lightly filling it with moistened soil. And only after such actions, place the plant with the roots carefully cleaned from the soil.
The next step is to add substrate to fill the pot and completely cover the root system. To ensure complete rooting of the transplanted aglaonema into the new soil, it is advisable to leave it without watering for a couple of days. This procedure can be painful for the flower, so in the first days it is important to give it special attention and care.
Planting Aglaonema shoots
The creation of greenhouses requires flower growers to have experience in competent propagation of the amazing aglaonema in familiar home conditions, which will allow them to increase the number of unique representatives of tropical countries.
The most popular reproduction methods include the following alternatives:
- Side shoots with roots.
- Stem cuttings.
- Using seeds.
The simplest and most effective technique among experienced flower growers is considered to be propagation using lateral shoots with root shoots, that is, dividing the bush.
The only thing you need to know when using this method is to carefully separate the plant. It is common for the aglaonema bush to grow and form young shoots that can independently provide for themselves all the necessary life processes. Such potential seedlings can be separated and planted in separate pots. An important requirement of this method is to choose the right sprout. It should have 5-6 healthy leaves and a formed rhizome.
Planting of aglaonema shoots should be done at a warm temperature of at least +20°C. If necessary, you can cover the young plants with a glass jar or film to create the effect of a mini-greenhouse.
This “trick” will speed up the adaptation and germination of roots in the new soil. Active growth of the foliage crown of young seedlings depends on regular watering and abundant spraying.
How to propagate aglaonema and how to properly root apical cuttings at home
Quite often, cuttings are used to propagate decorative aglaonema, which quickly take root and give excellent results. Planting material for cuttings can be:
- Trunk parts.
- Apical cuttings.
- Lateral processes.
The main condition when choosing a shoot for rooting is its healthy appearance and the presence of several leaves. Floriculture experts recommend not throwing away old, unsightly plants, since short pieces of the main shoot are suitable for propagation by cuttings.
Sections of prepared cuttings must be sprinkled with small pieces of coal and dried for 24 hours. After this procedure, all shoots are planted in pre-prepared soil, which should be light and nutritious. The next stage is to create the proper conditions for the emergence of roots in the shoots: warm temperature conditions, abundant watering and spraying.
For those who cannot figure out how to properly root aglaonema cuttings at home, it is important to take into account simple points. First of all, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil by mixing peat and sand in equal proportions.
The depth of planting the shoot should not exceed 4-5 cm. You can speed up the rooting process by creating greenhouse conditions by covering the container with the cuttings with plastic film. The duration of this procedure may take about a month. Once the roots have reached 4-6 cm, you can plant the sprouts in separate pots and care for them like adult plants.
This instruction applies to all types of planting material. After reading it, you can answer the question of how to effectively propagate beautiful aglaonema using apical cuttings at home and achieve the desired results.
Seed method of propagation of indoor agleonema flower
The seed propagation method is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming. It is worth considering that not every seed purchased in a store will sprout and be able to turn into a full-fledged adult flower. Therefore, it is better to prepare the seeds yourself, extracting them from the collected fruits in the form of small fleshy berries.
The “shelf life” of the resulting seeds is minimal, which requires immediate planting in the ground. To achieve the appearance of the first shoots, it is necessary to ensure:
- Warm temperature (+22…+25°C).
- High air humidity.
- Regular watering of the substrate.
As soon as the first 2-3 leaves appear on the sprouted sprouts, this is a reason for subsequent picking of seedlings into specially prepared containers with light soil made of peat and sand. In the future, stronger plants can be planted in separate pots for a permanent “place of residence” with proper care and attention.
Paying attention, providing necessary care and creating favorable conditions for the normal functioning of the flower, you will get a wonderful ornamental plant that will thank all your efforts with lush growth, rich greenery and the most delicate flowering!
Aglaonema has won fans all over the planet, and not only thanks to the film “Leon”. This is a very bright plant, and at the same time unpretentious, not requiring complex care at home. A wide variety of varieties and colors attracts both experienced and novice gardeners. We will tell you about all the secrets of successfully growing aglaonema in this article.
Origin and appearance of aglaonema
Aglaonema is a perennial plant from Southeast Asia; it belongs to the genus of evergreen herbs and shrubs of the Araceae family. Aglaonema is widespread in India, China, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia.
The first description of Aglaonema appeared in 1704. It was made by a Jesuit priest who lived in the Philippines. The original name Dracunculus did not stick, and in 1829 the plant received the name by which it is still known today - aglaonema - from the Greek words aglos - bright and nema - thread. The flower owes this name to the Austrian botanist Heinrich Wilhelm Schott, who devoted a lot of time to the study of aroids.
Aglaonema - decoration of any interior
By appearance Aglaonema is very similar to Dieffenbachia, and this is not surprising, since they are close relatives.
Aglaonema is a small decorative foliage plant with a height of 30 to 80 cm with an erect trunk. However, it becomes noticeable only in mature plants, as the leaves die. In some species the trunk branches at the base. The leaves are on short or long petioles, dense, leathery, large. The shape of the leaves varies from elongated to broad oval. The midrib is depressed and clearly stands out on the bottom of the leaf. Leaves may be various shades green, depending on the variety, they are covered with silver, white, yellow and pink spots and veins. There are varieties with leaves of red shades.
The inflorescence of Aglaonema is a spadix with a pale green veil. 1 to 3 inflorescences develop in the axils of the upper leaves. The fruits are bright red berries, sometimes white, several on the cob. They mature within 6–8 months.
Each Aglaonema berry contains one seed.
In nature, the habitat of Aglaonema is tropical and deciduous forests, wet plains, river banks and marshy peat deposits. Aglaonema is very hardy, able to grow in poor soils and tolerate lack of light. Thanks to these qualities, Aglaonema is considered an ideal plant for growing at home and in the office.
Aglaonema juice contains substances that irritate the skin. The seeds of the plant are also poisonous.
Popular varieties with different leaf colors
This plant appeared in greenhouses and homes in Europe in 1885. Books on floriculture of those times described the difficulties of maintaining the plant - it required high humidity and regular spraying. But the interest in Aglaonema was so great that they later developed a large number of unpretentious hybrid varieties.
There are about 50 species of aglaonema in nature. And the number of hybrids bred today is approaching 500.
Silver Queen. One of the most common Aglaonema hybrids, it was bred in the 60s of the 20th century. The length of the leaves reaches 15 cm, and the width is 8 cm. The color of the leaves is smoky-silver with a few green splashes. Very easy to care for, prefers partial shade. The bush usually reaches 70–80 cm in height.
Silver King. Just as easy to care for as the variety described above, but shorter. The color of the leaves and cuttings is silver-gray.
Crete.The variety belongs to the group of red aglaonemas. The plant is slow growing. The color of the leaves changes with age. If young leaves are completely red, then as they grow, spots appear on them, ranging in color from rich green to olive. This variety is very demanding on lighting. In a darkened room, the leaves lose their bright color and glossy shine. It reaches a height of 30–40 cm.
Aglaonema modest. The variety has good shade tolerance. Leaves of saturated Green colour, about 20 cm in length. The plant reaches 50 cm in height.
Treiba. It is considered the most unpretentious variety. A low bush with narrow leaves about 15 cm in length, covered with a silver-green pattern.
Maria. The most popular variety of aglaonema, which is more than 50 years old. Very shade-tolerant plant, can grow even in rooms with artificial lighting. The lush bush reaches a height of 50 cm. The leaves are ellipsoidal, green with silver spots.
Aglaonema curly. This is a large - up to 120 cm in height - plant with a vertical stem. The leaf blade is semicircular, up to 30 cm long and 16 cm wide. The color of the leaves is silver-matte, with the exception of the middle and edge of the leaf blade.
Siam Aurora. Another representative of the red group. Unpretentious, grows quickly. With additional lighting, the leaves become brightly colored. In the sun it “fades”: red colors darken, and green colors become yellow.
Photo gallery: Crete, Maria, Treiba and other popular varieties of aglaonema
Aglaonema Siam Aurora 
Aglaonema curly 
Aglaonema Maria 
Aglaonema Treiba 
Aglaonema Modest 
Aglaonema Crete 
Aglaonema Silver King 
Aglaonema Silver Queen
Care
Place
Do not place aglaonema in direct sunlight, as this may result in leaf burn. Partial shade is ideal. For varieties with variegated leaf colors, bright, diffused light is preferable.
In winter, it is worth additionally highlighting the plants, because aglaonema needs light for 12–15 hours during the day.
The place where aglaonema grows must be protected from drafts and tobacco smoke. The plant loves clean air. Aglaonema will feel good in a ventilated room, but it is better not to place it in the kitchen.
Watering and fertilizing
For the good development of aglaonema, the correct watering and feeding regime is important. This plant is moisture-loving, so in spring and summer we generously water our pet. But most importantly, don’t overfill it. Do not allow water to stagnate in the pan. After watering, the water should be completely absorbed into the soil. The next watering occurs when upper layer soil is slightly dry. You can understand when the time for watering has come by probing the soil to a depth of 5 cm. If the soil is dry, water it; if it is wet, postpone watering. In the fall, before the onset of cold weather, we water abundantly, but as the temperature drops, we reduce watering. In winter, watering is carried out after the earthen clod dries.
Water for irrigation is used soft, room temperature, settled. In winter, it is better to heat the water slightly.
During the growing season from March to August, fertilizing is done once every two weeks. Mineral fertilizers alternate with organic ones. In autumn, the growth of aglaonema slows down and fertilizing is reduced. In winter, a period of rest begins - fertilizing is not needed during this period.
Aglaonema does not like lime fertilizers.
Differences in care during flowering and dormancy
Under natural conditions, aglaonema blooms from June to August. Making aglaonema bloom is very simple. To do this you need to create for her good conditions: wide and shallow pot, regular spraying and watering, comfortable temperature in the room without sudden fluctuations.
To speed up flowering, you can include bone meal in the fertilizing.
The aglaonema flower is not of particular decorative value and many gardeners remove it, especially on young plants. You can leave the peduncle: sometimes self-pollination occurs and fruits are set. If this does not happen, then after the flower dries, it must be carefully cut off. But if you prefer the decorative qualities of foliage, then it is best to remove the flowers: flowering contributes to the shrinkage of the leaves.
Aglaonema flowers are not particularly decorative
Like most houseplants, the dormant period of Aglaonema occurs in winter.. During this period, the active growth of the plant slows down. The periods between watering increase, feeding stops altogether. We maintain high humidity and spray the plant with slightly warm water.
If the air temperature in the room does not drop below 20 degrees, aglaonema may not go into “winter mode”.
Table: seasonal care for aglaonema at home
| Season | Watering | Lighting | Humidity | Air temperature | Top dressing |
| Spring |
|
| Needed regularly spray and wash the plant. | 20–25 degrees. | Lime-free complex fertilizers for indoor plants - every 2 weeks. |
| Summer | |||||
| Autumn | Carefully spray the flower with warm water. |
| Feeding is reduced. | ||
| Winter |
|
| The flower is not fed. |
Aglaonema leaves should never be treated with shine sprays. It is enough to simply wash them regularly with water at room temperature.
How to transplant a flower correctly
Young aglaonema is replanted annually in the spring. An adult plant feels great in cramped pot, when the root system is limited, so replanting is done every 2–5 years, but as necessary, replace the top layer of soil with a new one. To do this, carefully remove about 2 centimeters of old soil and add new soil.
The ideal soil for planting would be a mixture of 3 parts leaf soil, 2 parts peat, 1 part humus and 1 part sand. Aglaonema prefers loose, uncrowded soil with good air and water permeability.
We pay special attention to the planting pot. Aglaonema has a superficial and fibrous root system, so a deep pot is undesirable. We will give preference to a wide one, taking into account the appearance of new young plants, and a shallow one. Aglaonema grows better if its roots are limited to a small space. When choosing the size of a planting pot, keep in mind that approximately a quarter of its volume will be taken up by drainage.
- Pour a layer of drainage into the selected pot: small pebbles, broken shards or expanded clay.
Drainage is necessary to avoid stagnation of water in the root system.
- Fill the prepared soil to approximately half the volume.
- Carefully straightening the roots, place the aglaonema in the center of the pot.
- We fill up the soil. If the plant is young, then it does not need to be buried. An old plant with a bare trunk can be slightly buried.
- After planting, water the aglaonema abundantly.
Store-bought aglaonema is not immediately replanted. She is given 2 to 3 weeks to adapt, and then she is transplanted, observing all the rules listed above.
Aglaonema also grows well in a nutrient solution without soil - hydroponics.
Droplets, brown spots and other problems
Table: errors in care and their elimination
| Problem | Cause | Elimination |
| The leaves dry out and become brittle. | The room is too dry and hot. | Move the plant to a ventilated area room, wipe the leaves with a damp spray with a cloth. |
| The edges of the leaves began to turn yellow. | Watering is done with hard chlorinated water. | Leave water to settle for no less before watering days. |
| The edges of the leaves have become limp. | Excessive or insufficient watering. | Dig the soil in the pot to see if it's enough Does the soil dry out before the next watering? |
| Droplets appeared on the leaves. |
|
|
| Leaves lose color and yellow spots appear. | Possible burns from direct sunlight. | Remove aglaonema from direct sun. |
| The leaves began to shrink. | Most likely a lack of nutrients. | Feed the plant. |
| Curled leaves with brown edges. | Too much cold air or drafts. | Remove the aglaonema to a warmer room without drafts. |
Table: diseases and pests of aglaonema
| Problem | Symptoms | Control and prevention |
| Gray rot | Gray, sometimes brown, appear on the leaves and stem spots that are soft to the touch. They spread quickly throughout the plant. |
|
| Rust | A fungal disease in which orange “velvet” pads appear on the underside of the leaf and golden spots on the top. | Remove the affected parts of the flower and pollinate the plant with ground sulfur. |
| Mealybug | The leaves become distorted, dry out and fall off. White, fluffy, cotton ball-like pests can be seen on stems, leaves and in their axils. | Actellik, Fitoverm, Fazol - apply strictly according to the instructions, using protective measures (gloves, gauze bandage). |
| Aphid | The leaves curl, dry out, and fall off. The aphid is located on the bottom of the leaf and is clearly visible. |
|
| Spider mite | The lower part of the leaf is covered with thin threads resembling a cobweb with whitish dots. The mite sucks the juices from the plant. |
|
| Thrips | Dry spots or streaks appear on the leaves. The leaf becomes deformed and falls off. | Remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 3–5 cm, wipe the aglaonema with a soap solution. After 4–5 hours, spray with Fitoverm. |
| Whitefly | The lower leaves become covered with a sticky coating. Small white insects living under the leaves are visually noticeable. |
|
| Shchitovka | Brown tubercles on the leaves and stem of aglaonema. Scale insect larvae can attract sooty fungus. | Scale insects are removed mechanically using a damp cloth soaked in a weak soap solution. Every 3-4 days the procedure must be repeated until the scale insects completely disappear. |
How can aglaonema reproduce?
Reproduction of aglaonema does not present any particular difficulties. There are three ways: seeds, cuttings and root division. Aglaonema is not propagated by leaves.
Seeds
This method is suitable for those gardeners who love surprises. The fact is that plants grown from seeds often do not resemble their parents. You can collect seeds only when they are easily separated from the fruit at the slightest touch. If you need to make an effort when extracting the seeds, it means they are not yet ripe.. Seeds must be planted immediately.
The longer you wait to plant the collected seeds, the less likely they are to germinate.
Process description:
- A mixture of peat and river sand in equal proportions is poured into wide flat pots or boxes; sphagnum moss is also suitable.
- The seeds are not deeply buried - a maximum of 1.5 centimeters into moist soil.
- The planting container is covered with polyethylene or glass.
- Every 2-3 days the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle.
- Under favorable conditions, the first shoots appear after 3 months.
- After a pair of true leaves appear, the aglaonema can be transplanted into a separate pot.
Plants grown from seed are usually vigorous but grow slowly. Varietal characteristics are almost never preserved. This is especially true for highly decorative varieties bred through selection.
Cuttings
As cuttings, you can use apical, lateral shoots of aglaonema or parts of the bare trunk of an adult plant that have growing points. The length of the cutting should be at least 3–5 centimeters, and the presence of at least one leaf guarantees almost 100% rooting.
Rooting parts of the trunk can be done all year round, but it is best to do this in March-April.
- Powder the chopped parts of the trunk with crushed activated carbon and dry for a day.
- We lightly press a piece of the trunk into the wet substrate, if it is small, and if the piece is larger, we deepen it vertically to the growth point.
- Cover with a plastic bag and place in a warm, bright place.
- The temperature should be from +24 to +26 degrees. You need to ventilate the cuttings once a day, slightly lifting the bag. Keep the soil moist.
- In a month, roots will appear.
Rooting of apical or lateral shoots occurs as follows:
- We cut off the shoots and tie the leaves on them into a bundle to reduce moisture evaporation.
- We dip them for a few minutes in a solution of Epin or Zircon for better root formation (you don’t have to do this, aglaonema usually takes root well without this procedure).
- Sprinkle the sections with crushed activated carbon and dry for 8 hours.
- Prepare the pot: pour drainage and soil in half with sand. We moisturize well.
- Using a pencil or stick, make a hole in the ground.
- We plant the cutting to the base of the leaf, compacting the soil around it.
- Using a frame and cellophane we make a greenhouse.
- Place in a warm, bright place. Ventilate periodically.
Rooting apical and lateral shoots is one of the most popular methods of propagating aglaonema
You can root apical cuttings and side shoots simply in water with the addition of growth stimulants (Zircon, Epin). Dip the cutting into the solution and place it in a warm and bright place. The water needs to be changed every 3-4 days. In direct sunlight the water may turn green.
Dividing rhizomes
An adult, heavily grown plant, which is divided into several bushes, is best suited for this method.
- Remove the aglaonema from the pot.
- Shake off excess soil and wash the roots in water.
- Using a sharp knife or scissors, separate the young shoots with a formed root system.
The plant to be separated must have at least 3 leaves.
- Sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon, crushed into powder.
- Immediately plant the separated shoot in a pot prepared in advance and water it well.
- Place in a warm place for a week. Spray periodically.
- When a young leaf appears on the aglaonema, which indicates normal rooting, place the pot with the plant in a permanent place.
Dividing the rhizome of aglaonema during transplantation is the easiest method of propagation
Everyone knows that indoor plants are a source of beauty and benefit for the people who grow them. Plants give us their beauty and at the same time perform a number of useful functions: they participate in the process of photosynthesis (they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen), and also maintain an optimal microclimate in the room (they humidify the air).
However, not everything is so rosy: the plant world also has its outsiders - dangerous plants that can cause significant harm. Animals and children suffer especially badly from such representatives of the flora, because they are not able to distinguish a potentially dangerous plant. That is why families with children and animals need to be especially careful when selecting house plants.
So, here are the 20 most dangerous indoor plants:
- Ivy evergreen- a liana-shaped evergreen shrub belonging to the Araliaceae family. The stems are long, curved, the leaves are dark green with a carved edge. The leaves and berries of the plant are poisonous if ingested. Cats, who are attracted to the lush greenery of the plant, suffer especially badly from ivy.
- is a very beautiful plant with bright greenery and magnificent flowers in white, pink or red, belonging to the heather family. The leaves of the plant are poisonous; they contain a toxic substance - a glycoside, which causes poisoning. It is necessary to place pots with azaleas in places inaccessible to children and animals. It is not recommended to keep azalea in the bedroom.
- - a plant with large decorative flowers and dense dark green leaves. The family to which cyclamen belongs is Primroses. Cyclamen tubers are especially poisonous; they contain a poison similar to that of curare. These same tubers are often used in folk medicine, while observing all precautions.
- Trichocereus- an erect cactus with long curved spines. It blooms with white, strong-smelling flowers. The cactus contains hallucinogens and alkaloids that cause paralysis of the central nervous system. In the wild, cacti are protected from being eaten by animals using toxic substances.
- Croton- a representative of the Euphorbiaceae family. A very popular house plant with large beautiful leaves of original colors. Like many members of the spurge family, croton is poisonous. The poison is contained in the seeds and milky sap of the plant, which appears if a leaf or stem of a croton is broken off. If croton juice gets on your skin, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.
- Spurge- a very popular houseplant, which gave its name to an entire genus (Euphorium). It looks like a mini palm tree: a tuft of dense green leaves sits at the top of a thick stem. Like the previous croton plant, milkweed has poisonous seeds and milky juice. Particular care must be taken when replanting the plant and other work with it.
- – the most popular house plant, very beautiful and decorative. Dieffenbachia is an evergreen shrub with large oval leaves of variegated color. Grows up to two meters in height. Unfortunately, all green parts of the plant (petioles and leaves) contain poison. You can get seriously poisoned if Dieffenbachia juice gets into your mouth. Animals that may inadvertently eat the plant suffer especially.
- Brunfelsia- a houseplant, especially common in America and Europe, a member of the nightshade family. It smells great and blooms beautifully with lilac flowers. All parts of the plant are poisonous, especially the fruits and seeds of Brunfelsia.
- - a spectacular plant that has recently become widespread in our homes. At the top of the thick, woody stem there is a bunch of green leaves and bright and large red flowers. Adenium is one of the most poisonous plants. To this day, adenium poison is used by African tribes to poison arrowheads. All parts of the plant are toxic and poisonous, but its milky sap is especially dangerous. If your family has pets, children, or someone in the family suffers from asthma, think carefully before you start growing adenium.
- - a magnificent house plant, blooming very beautiful flowers, grouped into an umbrella of 12 or more flowers. The leaves of the plant are dense, glossy, elongated. The most poisonous parts of clivia are the leaves and roots. Great care must be taken when working with the plant and be sure to use rubber gloves.
- Gloriosa luxurious- an exotic plant with very spectacular and unusual flowers that change color throughout the flowering period. At the same time, Gloriosa is one of the most poisonous houseplants. All parts of Gloriosa splendor are poisonous. Once in a living organism, the poison of the plant causes nausea and vomiting, and also leads to impaired kidney function and hair loss. To avoid such unpleasant consequences of poisoning, you should handle the plant very carefully. In addition, it is necessary to protect pets and children from contact with gloriosis.
- Ficus- a well-known inhabitant of many homes, one of the most popular plants in the whole world. The luxurious, rich greenery of ficus attracts many gardeners. Is this pet really poisonous? Of course, one cannot say so categorically. Ficus is on this list because the plant is a powerful allergen. Ficus sap is especially dangerous: if it gets on the skin, it can irritate and even burn. Don’t be afraid to grow ficus trees in your homes, but still try to take precautions.
- Philodendron- a plant of the araceae family. Some philodendrons are vines, and some are bushy plants. Philodenron is especially prized for its beautiful, dense greenery. Unfortunately, philodendron juice, like many members of the aroid family, is poisonous, but only if it comes into contact with the skin and mucous membranes. If the plant is not damaged, it is not dangerous at all.
- Akalifa- a genus of plants in the Euphorbiaceae family, uniting about 400 plants. The peculiarity of Akalifa is leaves with patterns of unusual colors and inflorescences in the form of fluffy earrings. Akalifa is a slightly poisonous plant whose milky sap contains dangerous substances.
- - a large shrub plant, perfect for large rooms, greenhouses and winter gardens. Schefflera, like akalifa, is a slightly poisonous plant. It is unlikely that the cheflera will cause much harm to you, but still try to wash your hands whenever possible after contact with the plant.
- Primrose- a very beautiful plant with flowers of various shades, surrounded by velvety green leaves. Primrose is often placed in children's rooms because of the bright colors of the plant. However, all parts of the primrose are poisonous and pose a potential danger. Firstly, during flowering, primrose releases special substances - alkaloids, inhaling which you can feel nausea and dizziness. Moreover, if there are several plants, their impact is enhanced. Secondly, the poison is contained in the hairs of primrose leaves. If you touch the leaves of the plant, the poison may cause burning and itching. If you always rinse your hands under water after contact with the plant, the primrose will not cause any harm.
- - a plant belonging to the nightshade family. It is a small shrub, reaching a height of 35 cm, blooming with purple, blue and white flowers. Brovalia beautiful is a poisonous plant. All parts of brovalia contain poison, which negatively affects the body when it gets inside or onto the mucous membranes. Most often, children and pets suffer when they come into contact with the plant, so it is very important to keep the plant in a hard-to-reach place.
- Monstera- A popular indoor plant that reaches impressive sizes. Typically, monstera is grown in public premises, as well as in greenhouses and winter gardens. Monstera leaves are large, dense, rich green in color, with slits along the edges. Before you start growing monstera in your home, think carefully. The plant has very poisonous juice that can burn the skin of the body or even damage the eyes. Symptoms of monstera poisoning are a burning sensation in the mouth, excessive salivation, and inflammation of the digestive system.
- Pachypodium Lamera, the second name of the plant is Madagascar palm. The lamera has a thick, spiny stem, similar to a cactus, the top of which is crowned with a rosette of elongated leaves. Pachypodium has a poisonous and toxic milky sap, which is released when the plant is damaged. However, this juice has no effect on the skin and can only be dangerous if it comes into contact with wounds and mucous membranes. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant, and it will not cause you any harm.
- - a plant of the araceae family. The main value of the plant is its luxurious greenery: large, dense leaves of rich color, often with a bizarre pattern. The plant perfectly purifies the air in the apartment and kills many pathogenic bacteria. However, at the same time, you need to remember that the milky juice of aglaonema is dangerous. Juice is released when the plant is damaged, for example when a leaf breaks, so when replanting aglaonema, be sure to use rubber gloves.
An attentive reader will probably have noticed that some plant families are repeated especially often in this list: Aroidaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Kutraaceae, Solanaceae. Indeed, representatives of these particular families are especially poisonous and require the most careful handling.
Kutrov family considered the most dangerous family of houseplants in the world. Prominent representatives of the Kutrovaceae are adenium and pachypodium; this family also includes dipladenia, plumeria, allamanda, strophanthus, carissa and other plants. When working with plants of the cutraceae family, exercise extreme caution, always use rubber gloves and grow these plants out of the reach of children and pets.
Family Araceae It is also distinguished by a large number of poisonous house plants: alocasia, aglaonema, monstera, dieffenbachia, philodendron, spathiphyllum, anthurium, syngonium. Almost all plants of the aroid family contain toxic substances: oxalic acid, proteins and enzymes, which are often used as components of household chemicals due to their caustic properties. The sap from such plants is especially dangerous, so if the plant is damaged, handle it as carefully as possible.
Family Euphorbiaceae includes many plants that are popular on our windowsills: milkweed, croton, akalifa. The toxic substance euphorin is part of the milky juice of almost all euphorbias. If it comes into contact with the skin and mucous membranes, euphorin can cause burning, burns and inflammation. Be careful when handling spurge family plants and always wash your hands thoroughly after handling them.
Nightshade family Probably everyone knows, because the most popular edible plants Potatoes and tomatoes belong to this family. Houseplants of the nightshade family are brovallia, brunfelsia, and capsicum, often grown at home. The most poisonous part of nightshades are the berries, which, if ingested, can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and subsequently unhealthy drowsiness and lethargy. Be careful to ensure that your child or pet does not eat the berries of these plants.
And in conclusion: many plants are poisonous, to a greater or lesser extent, however, most of them are successfully cultivated by humans. It may not be a good idea to buy a plant that could harm you and your family. However, if you decide to grow a potentially dangerous plant, make every effort to minimize its danger. Do not allow children and animals to come into contact with such a plant, do not place it near the bed, always wash your hands after working with it, use rubber gloves. If you follow these simple rules, the plant will not be able to cause any harm and will delight you with its natural beauty.
The homeland of this indoor ornamental plant is China, India and Southeast Asia. Aglaonema is a relative of Dieffenbachia and therefore somewhat similar to it, differing only in narrower leaves, the size of Aglaonema is much smaller than Dieffenbachia, and the plant itself has the shape of a bush. In addition, at home, aglaonemas bloom and produce fruits much more often and for quite a long time. Aglaonema is one of the most suitable plants for hydroponic culture.
Aglaonema. © Curiosity thrills
Description of Aglaonema
(Aglaonema) - a genus of evergreen herbs and subshrubs of the Araceae family ( Araceae), or Aronnikovaceae.
Genus Aglaonema ( Aglaonema) according to various sources, there are from 20 to 50 species of plants of the araceae family. The name of the genus comes from the Greek. aglaia - shine, nema - stamen. Aglaonemas grow in tropical rain or monsoon forests, in the lower tier of forests, on wet plains, along the banks of rivers and streams. The genus's habitat covers the tropics of India, China, Southeast Asia, the Malay Archipelago, and New Guinea.
These are evergreens herbaceous plants with erect short fleshy stems; in some species the trunk branches at the base. Young aglaonemas have practically no noticeable stem; adults develop a short stem on which traces of the bases of fallen leaves are preserved.
The leaves on long or short petioles are dense, leathery, entire, from broadly ovate to oblong-lanceolate, patterned, the midrib is depressed, protruding from the bottom of the leaf. The color of Aglaonema leaves varies depending on the species and variety.
The inflorescence is a spadix with a greenish-white veil. Inflorescences develop 1-3 in the axils of the upper leaves. Depending on the type, the cobs are thin, cylindrical (0.3-0.5 cm in diameter, 4-6 cm long) or thick, club-shaped (0.8-1 cm and 3-4 cm, respectively). The fruits are berries, juicy, bright orange ruby color, less often white, oblong, containing one seed. They ripen within 6-8 months.
Aglaonema is cultivated as an ornamental foliage plant indoors and in greenhouses with moderate air temperatures.
Features of growing aglaonema
Light: bright, diffused for variegated forms, for plants with uniformly colored leaves - shading.
Temperature: in summer +20…+25 °C, in winter not lower than +16…+18 °C.
Watering aglaonema: plentiful in summer, watering is reduced in winter, making sure that the substrate does not dry out, but is also not very waterlogged.
Air humidity: high, in winter spraying is done with warm water.
Feeding aglaonema: from March to August every two weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers, in autumn-winter - without fertilizing.
Rest period: (September-February), temperature not lower than +16…+18°C, regular watering, do not feed.
Transfer: in spring, young annually, adults as needed every 3-5 years.
Reproduction: spring; seeds, apical cuttings, suckers (shoots), division during transplantation.
Aglaonema. © TonyNewMoon Caring for aglaonema at home
All aglaonemas grow in tropical rainforests. This determines their growing conditions. IN natural conditions Aglaonema habitat grows in the lower tier of the forest, where little light penetrates. For aglaonemas, partial shade is preferable; they are shade-tolerant and do not tolerate direct sunlight, as this threatens to burn the leaves. But for variegated forms, in order not to lose the decorative pattern of the leaves, bright diffused light is needed.
Optimal temperature for growth is +20…+25°C. In winter, the temperature should not fall below +16...+18 °C; it is advisable to avoid sudden temperature changes. Drafts must be avoided, as they are detrimental to aglaonema.
During the growing season (spring-summer), aglaonema is watered abundantly as the top layer of the substrate dries. In the autumn-winter period, water regularly, a day or two after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Watering is done with well-settled soft and warm water. Overdrying of the earthen clod, as well as waterlogging (especially in winter), are dangerous for aglaonema.
Aglaonema requires high air humidity. In dry air, the leaves become deformed, do not unfold well, and their tops and edges dry out. Therefore, aglaonema needs to be sprayed regularly. To increase humidity, you can group plants or place the plant on a tray with damp pebbles, peat or expanded clay. In this case, the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. In the autumn-winter period, if the air temperature is low, then spraying should be carried out carefully.
During the growing season (from March to August) the plant is fed every two weeks, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers of normal concentration; in winter the plant is not fed.
Aglaonema requires a substrate that is well permeable to moisture and air for successful growth. The substrate should be light enough; it is made up of 3 parts leaf soil, 0.5 parts humus, 1 part peat, 1 part sand and 0.5 parts charcoal(3:0.5:1:1:0.5); or leaf soil, peat and sand (2:1:1) with the addition of crushed charcoal. Good drainage is necessary.
Grows well in hydroponics.
Reproduction of aglaonema
Aglaonemas are propagated in spring and summer by stem cuttings, suckers, and less often by seeds.
Propagation by cuttings
Cuttings are rooted in warm soil. All aglaonemas can be easily taken from cuttings, and for species with a vertical stem, it should be recommended not to take the usual cuttings from the top, but to cut off most of the stem almost at soil level and then plant it in a high pot.
Roots are actively formed from dormant buds on the stem, and the above-ground part of the mother plant produces new shoots. Water the newly planted cuttings carefully until they are completely rooted, avoiding soaking. The substrate should be as loose as possible.
Cutting technology
Aglaonema has become bare from below and is “falling over.” Such a plant needs to be rejuvenated - cut.
- Cut off the most overgrown stem at a height of 2-3 cm from the soil level.
- Using pruning shears, divide the long shoot into several 10–15 cm sections.
- Manually remove the bottom leaves from each cutting.
- Pour drainage into the container, then the rooting substrate - large river sand or a mixture of peat and sand.
- Sprinkle the finished mixture with plenty of water.
- Immerse the cuttings in the substrate to half their height, water generously and place the container in a warm place.
- After 2–3 weeks in spring and summer or 4–6 weeks in winter, the plant will be sufficiently rooted.
- Plant the rooted cuttings several at a time in small pots or plant them separately in different ones.
Reproduction of aglaonema by seeds
The efficiency of seed propagation of Aglaonema is high. Abundant fruiting in room conditions is not only amazing in itself and pleases the eye with large red single-seeded berries, but also guarantees the germination of seeds of ripe fruits (do not pick the berries ahead of time: fully ripe fruits have an intense red color and remain in the hand when touched). Artificial pollination is not required.
Rooted cuttings of aglaonema. © aqua-ism Types of aglaonema
Aglaonema moderate, or Aglaonema modest (Aglaonema modestum). Homeland - mountain slopes covered with tropical rainforests on the Indochina Peninsula and the Malay Archipelago. Plant height is 40-50 cm. The stem is branched. The leaves are oval, 15-20 cm long and 6-9 cm wide, obtuse at the base, pointed at the apex, with 4-5 prominent veins on each side of the midrib, uniformly green in color. The fruits are red, reminiscent of dogwood fruits.
Aglaonema modified, or Aglaonema variable (Aglaonema commutatum). Homeland: Philippines, Sulawesi (in the Malay Archipelago in Indonesia). A plant with upright growing stems, the length of which ranges from 20 to 150 cm. Leaves are up to 30 cm long and 10 cm wide on long petioles. The flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3-6 flowers. The cob is thin, up to 6 cm long, the spathe is pale green, longer than the cob. The fruit is a red berry. The emerging fruits increase the decorative qualities of this aglaonema.
Particularly popular are varieties that have different shape and leaf color.
Aglaonema splendor (Aglaonema nitidum). Homeland: Thailand, Malaysia, Sumatra, Kalimantan. In nature it grows in damp forests and low-lying plains. A large plant with stems up to 1 m high. The leaves are bright or dark green, shiny on top, often oblong, up to 45 cm long, up to 20 cm wide. Flowers are collected in groups of 2-5. The cob is approximately equal to the spathe, its length is 6 cm. The fruits are white
Aglaonema modified, or Aglaonema changeable (Aglaonema commutatum). © Hatem moushir 
Aglaonema moderate, or Aglaonema modestum. © JLHA3050 
Aglaonema shiny (Aglaonema nitidum). © Nemrac Aglaonema ribbed (Aglaonema costatum). Homeland - tropical rainforests of South-West Malaysia. Herbaceous low-growing plants, branched at the base. The leaves are oval-ovate, about 20 cm long and 10 cm wide, dense, green, with white spots and streaks on the upper side.
Aglaonema painted (Aglaonema pictum). Homeland - tropical rainforests on the islands of Sumatra and Borneo. The height of the plants is about 60 cm. The stem branches strongly at the bottom. Numerous shoots are densely covered with leaves. The leaves are elongated-elliptical, 10-20 cm long and 5 cm wide, dark green, with uneven grayish spots on the surface, quite large. In some forms, the leaves have silvery-white spots, which are very beautiful. The fruit is red.
Aglaonema oblongifolia (Aglaonema marantifolium). It grows in the tropical rainforests of Singapore, the Philippines, and the islands of Borneo and Penang. The leaves are dark green, large, up to 30 cm long, located on long (up to 20 cm) petioles. Some varieties have a silver-gray pattern on the leaves.
Aglaonema ribbed (Aglaonema costatum). © Candy Tan 
Aglaonema pictum. © hoksumm 
Aglaonema oblong-leaved (Aglaonema marantifolium). © El Grafo
Possible growing difficulties
Aglaonema has wrinkled leaves with brown tips:
- Cause- air is too dry.
Aglaonema has curled leaves with brown edges:
- Cause- too cold air or drafts.
There are white-yellow spots on the leaves of Aglaonema:
- Cause- burn from direct sunlight. Place the plant in the shade, let it “cool” and then spray it with water at room temperature.
Slow plant growth and brown leaves around the edges:
- Cause- too hard and cold water. Plants should be watered with settled water (the water should sit for 24 hours). Water hardness can be reduced by removing calcium salts by adding 0.2 g of oxalic acid per 10 liters. water, after which the water must settle to precipitate salts (the upper transparent part is used for irrigation). To reduce water hardness, you can use citric acid.
Aglaonema. © chanrajesq Damaged: spider mite, mealybug, aphids, whiteflies, thrips.
Precautionary measures: Aglaonemas contain substances that irritate the skin and mucous membranes. The juice and berries of the plant are poisonous.
