PVC lining is widely used for interior decoration. As a rule, plastic ceilings are installed in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, loggia - rooms most exposed to moisture. For living rooms this approach is not suitable. Firstly, polyvinyl chloride is not very environmentally friendly, and secondly, ceiling lining does not look aesthetically pleasing in the design of a living room or bedroom. But this finish looks good in the interior of shops, eateries or other service facilities.

Next, we will look in detail at how to properly install a ceiling made of plastic lining. It is quite possible to perform such a task with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. We will analyze the entire process of installing panels step by step.

Required Tools

Installation occurs as follows - the plastic lining is attached to a wooden or metal frame of the sheathing. To complete the work you will need:

• a wood saw or jigsaw to cut plastic and sheathing bars;
• metal scissors if the frame will be installed from an aluminum profile.
• a hammer drill or impact drill with a pobedit nozzle for drilling holes in ceilings;
• tape measure and carpenter's ruler-square;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• screwdriver;
• water level;
• construction stapler;
• a stationery knife for making holes for lamps and small cuts when fitting parts.

Calculation of the amount of lining

Plastic panels come in different widths - 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25 cm, but the standard length is 6 m.

Let's say you need to cover a ceiling measuring 5 x 3 m with clapboard 20 cm wide. To do this, divide 500 cm by 20 cm - you get 25 pieces.

But, since the length of the panels is 6 m and the width of the room is 3 m, they are cut in half. In addition, 20% is added as a reserve in case you need to replace defective material.

Multiply 25 by 1.2. As a result, we get 30 PVC panels 3 m long or, accordingly, 15 pieces of 6 m each.

Preparation of materials

In addition to the plastic lining itself, wooden blocks or an aluminum profile will be needed to finish the ceiling. They are used to construct a frame and are attached to the floors perpendicular to the location of the panels.

The cross-sectional size of the beam is taken to be 20 x 30 mm, and the step when marking the sheathing is about 40-60 cm.

Let's calculate the amount of timber for covering a ceiling measuring 3 x 5 m. If the lining is located parallel to a wall 3 meters long, then wooden base it is attached perpendicular to it in increments of 0.4-0.6 m. That is, you will need 7 planks 5 m long. But since bars of this size are not sold, you can buy 7 pieces 6 m long or 18 2 m long. Aluminum profile is calculated in a similar way.

In addition to the blanks for constructing the frame, you will need the following materials:

• self-tapping screws and dowels – exact amount it is difficult to calculate, approximately, to attach a 2-meter piece of timber you will need 4-5 pieces, the length of the screw should be from 50 to 120 mm, taking into account the curvature of the ceilings;
• if a metal sheathing is installed, then it is necessary to purchase profiles: UD - for installation around the perimeter, CD - for the frame, as well as U-shaped hangers and cross-shaped crab-type fasteners;
• depending on the material of the sheathing - staples for a stapler or metal screws for mounting panels;
• ceiling plinth - monolithic ones with a U-shaped groove, as well as collapsible PVC profiles with removable fastenings, are widely used, but it is allowed to use a simple L-profile, the length is equal to the perimeter of the room;
• corners for plinths – connecting fittings It is required only on external corners; in other cases, it is enough to cut the baguette at 45 degrees.

Frame structure

Before installing the lining, you need to assemble the sheathing to which the plastic panels will be attached. It can be made of wood or metal. Let's consider both options separately.

Marking

The first step is to select the desired ceiling level, draw a line on one of the walls with a pencil, or use a tapping thread. When installing plastic lining, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 2 cm, not counting the height of the lamps and the thickness of the panels.

Then the mark is transferred to the remaining walls, maintaining the level. This way the perimeter of the future frame is outlined. Afterwards, the location lines are marked in the same way supporting elements lathing in increments of 40-60 cm.

Metal frame

First, a UD profile is installed around the perimeter of the ceiling and secured with dowels. If the distance from the ceiling to the lining is more than 5 cm, then the structure is mounted on U-shaped suspensions, their length varies between 7.5-25 cm.

Then two outer CD profiles are installed - each at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall, perpendicular to the location of the panels. They are attached to the ceiling using U-shaped hangers, and to the UD profile with self-tapping screws or crab connectors.

The remaining CD profiles are mounted with the same spacing as the wooden blocks - 40-60 cm. For ease of level adjustment, a fishing line or thread is stretched between the outer profiles.

Wood frame

When installing lathing from wooden blocks, you need to use a drill to drill holes in each of them for screws in increments of 50 cm. Since the planks will be fastened with self-tapping screws, they are applied to the ceiling and marks are made using a pencil or drill.

Next, holes are punched in the ceiling using a puncher, according to the original markings, and plastic dowels are inserted. Then the bars are screwed with self-tapping screws. Using a level, check that all planks are fixed strictly horizontally; if necessary, use shims or use wooden wedges.

To avoid rotting and the formation of fungus, the wood is treated with drying oil, varnish or paint. After this, installation of electrical wiring begins.

If we compare the two types of lathing, then it is more profitable to install a frame made of galvanized profiles in rooms with high humidity; in other cases, it is better to install a wooden version.

Lighting

For proper planning electrical installation work It is necessary to first draw a diagram of the arrangement of devices. Number of built-in lamps per plastic ceiling is calculated taking into account the following requirements: the placement step is 1 m, while the distance from the nearby wall is taken within 20-50 cm.

When installing standard 220 V incandescent lamps, it is important to remember that the power of each of them should not exceed 40 W, in order to avoid heating and deformation of the plastic.

If low voltage halogen or LED bulbs, then you will need to install a 12 V step-down transformer. The preference for such equipment is justified by several factors: fire safety, especially in a wet area, low energy consumption and durability of lighting devices. But there are also limitations: a maximum of 4 lamps with a wire length of up to 2-2.5 m can be connected to the transformer; more is not recommended.

Holes for lamps in a PVC ceiling can be made using a wood crown, a jigsaw, a stationery knife or a thin drill. In this case, the diameter should be 4-5 mm smaller than the outer ring of the lighting fixture.

In addition, you will need terminal blocks, switches and clamps with which the cable is attached to the frame. At the location of the lamps, a loop about 15 cm long is made for convenience when installing lamps, since the wiring will have to be pulled out through the holes in the lining.

If installed metal carcass, then, in order to avoid damage from the edges of the profile, it is better to lay it in corrugated pipe made of non-flammable plastic. This solution is also true indoors high level humidity to prevent fire.

Installation of lining

First of all, one of the following profiles is attached to the sheathing - a starting or ceiling molding in the form of the letter “P”. It sticks " liquid nails"or secured with self-tapping screws. Installation of panels is carried out in the following order:

1. The distance from one profile to the opposite is measured, 1.5-2 cm is added to it. This will be the length of the inserted panel. Considering the possible curvature of the walls, it is better to take measurements for small groups one at a time and cut them to the desired length.
2. The first panel is installed in the guides with the tenon facing forward; it should fit tightly into the grooves. It is then secured using construction stapler to a wooden block, or with self-tapping screws to a metal frame.
3. All subsequent panels are installed in the same way - first with one end, then with the other they are inserted into the molding, aligned and driven into the groove of the previous one.
4. In the process, holes are made for the lamps.
5. The last panel needs to be cut a little more - from 5 to 7 cm. But this technique has a drawback - over time, the lining may move away and a gap will appear. Therefore, sometimes the last strip is glued with “liquid nails”. To do this, apply glue to both the molding and the perpendicular sheathing, then press the panel for a few minutes. But after that, when dismantling it, it will have to be broken.
6. Finally, the last plinth without mounting strip is glued to the ceiling.

As a final finish, you can cover any gaps with acrylic, but, as a rule, this is not required.

Plastic lining is inexpensive solution for finishing walls and ceilings with your own hands. Installation of plastic lining occurs quite quickly, and the surface finished with this material takes on a completely unrecognizable appearance.

Along with, today plastic lining is in great demand, since it can also be used for outdoor work, including. To independently install plastic lining, you should study the technology, which is in many ways similar in principle to other wall finishing technologies.

Plastic lining - advantages of the material

Such material as plastic lining is considered to be. It is made using polyvinyl chloride, the same material from which other plastic products are made: dishes, syringes, etc. As a result, plastic lining is an absolutely harmless material, which is often used to completely line a bathroom or corridor.

The presence of a tongue-and-groove joint on the edges of the plastic lining on the side allows it to be fastened efficiently and quickly. By the way, the installation of plastic lining can be done with your own hands, if you have a certain tool, which will be discussed below.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining

To implement correct installation plastic lining, you should study not only the technology, but also prepare all necessary tool for this:

• Firstly, to install the lining you will need: building level, plumb line and tape measure.
• A hammer drill, as well as a screwdriver or drill that can replace it.
• with fine teeth or .
• You will also need such common tools as: a hammer, screwdrivers, a sharp knife and a stapler.

In addition, if you have high walls or install plastic lining on the ceiling, you need to get a construction “goat” or a high stepladder.

The complete technology for installing plastic forcing with your own hands looks like this:

1. First, you need to prepare the walls for installation of the sheathing. After installing the plastic lining, the surface of the walls will be tightly closed and inaccessible. As a result, care should be taken to ensure high-quality insulation and treatment with antiseptics.

2. The assembly of the sheathing for the installation of plastic lining is carried out using wooden beams or a galvanized metal profile. The profile or beam is attached to the wall using dowels, if the wall is concrete, and self-tapping screws.

3. Fasten plastic lining to the assembled sheathing should depend on the material from which it is assembled. If it is wood, then it is possible to use a stapler or small nails for fastening. Provided that a metal profile is used for the sheathing, the plastic lining is fixed to it using self-tapping screws.

In fact, installing plastic lining is not particularly difficult. Today you can watch videos on the Internet and see pictures. All this will certainly help you understand this technology and will bring some clarity to the installation of plastic lining with your own hands.

PVC lining- this is a variety plastic panels, having special grooves for hidden fastening. Usually, plastic lining, Unlike PVC panels, during installation it forms a rack connection. It is a modern, practical and inexpensive finishing material. It is used to decorate walls and ceilings both indoors and outdoors, as an economical option for lining gables and roof eaves. Specialized and recommended materials for lining eaves overhangs and gables are PVC soffits and vinyl siding.
PVC lining is good for finishing rooms with high humidity: kitchens, bathrooms, etc.

Cladding - This is a non-labor-intensive and relatively “clean” way of finishing a room. One of the main advantages of this finishing material is its high ease of installation. The wall is going like children's designer, and even a non-professional can cope with this task. Another advantage this method finishing - the virtual absence of any dirt, dust, waste and other “side effects” that are inevitable during normal repairs. Often the lining is attached to wooden sheathing, installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining. Hydro, heat and sound insulation can be installed between the surface to be finished and the lining.

RANGE OF FINISHING BOARDS

F-profile (3) closes the junction of the lining with the door and window openings, corner connections with other materials (wood, concrete, etc.).

End piece (6) (aka: starting, final, finishing element) covers the end faces of the lining, can be used when joining the lining to door and window openings.

Connecting H-profile (1) serves to connect the linings to each other (increasing the length of the lining).

Internal corner (4) covers the lining joint in the internal corners.

External corner (5) (outer) covers the connection of the lining at the outer corners.

Skirting (2) (upper, ceiling) covers the junction of the ceiling lining to the walls.

Universal overlay decorated profile used for interior design, external corners and end faces of the lining. The required profile shape is given by bending it. The bend is made by a uniform sliding movement of the fingers along the entire length. To ensure better gliding, cotton gloves are used. For gluing, you can use any adhesives designed to work with PVC.

PREPARATORY WORK

In order to quickly and efficiently carry out installation work, you should calculate the required quantity:
1. Linings that will be used for finishing (in pieces).
2. Finishing strips (moldings) in linear meters.
3. Laths for arranging lathing 30x10 mm or 40x20 mm.
4. Small nails or staples (must be protected with anti-corrosion coating).
5. Insulation boards made of foam plastic or loose wood fiber (if necessary).

To carry out installation work, you must have the following tools:
an electric drill and a drill with a carbide tip for a specific dowel diameter;
hand-held power saw with vulcanite blade;
electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
construction level for leveling the sheathing slats both vertically and horizontal planes;
plumb line;
square;
hacksaw for wood and metal;
miter box;
metal scissors;
shoe knife;
furniture stapler (if using connecting staples 10 mm deep);
hammer and hammer;
pliers;
straight rail;
roulette;
chalk, pencil;
cord;
ladder or stepladder.

Using a tape measure, chalk, level and straight batten, outline the installation of the sheathing slats.

PROCEDURE FOR PERFORMANCE OF WORK INSTALLATION OF PVC LINING.

Depending on the area of ​​application of the material, options for installing the lining on the sheathing are possible. various types:

· On wooden slats(dry rooms, with additional processing timber - can also be used in damp rooms; exterior decoration)

· On a plastic rail (wet rooms)

· On metal profile(wet areas)

· Directly to the surface adhesives(for interior finishing)

When starting to install the lining, you should adhere to the following: practical advice:
1. PVC lining can be cut perfectly with a saw with a fine toothed blade (for example, a hacksaw). Good results gives manual a circular saw with a vulcanite disk (from the "grinder").
2. Transverse cutting of the lining should begin from the thickened part.
3. Connecting nails should be driven strictly vertically (you should also use a furniture stapler).
4. When installing finishing strips (moldings), we must not forget about cutting corners (using a miter box) when arranging corners.
5. When installing PVC lining horizontally on the facade of a building, the edge with the groove must always be positioned down to avoid rainwater flowing in.
6. And finally, before cutting anything, you need to measure seven times.

The first step is to install the sheathing to attach the PVC lining to it. This is the most difficult and critical stage of installation work. From the correctness and straightness of installation load-bearing structures depends on the type of room.

Plastic lining, at the request of the owner, can be mounted vertically, horizontally or at a certain angle to the horizontal surface. If you install PVC lining at an angle to the floor, it is better to place the bars closer to each other.

Vertical arrangement of the lining Horizontal arrangement of the lining

Here you should keep in mind the fact that in all cases, the sheathing slats are placed strictly perpendicular to the facing linings. It is advisable to maintain the distance between the lathing slats within 500 mm.

Next, the finishing strips are installed. Installation of the lining begins with the installation of the ceiling molding (No. 2), or the starting molding (No. 6), or combined option from these planks (plank No. 2 on the floor, No. 6 on the ceiling, or vice versa). (Fig. 2) Installation can be carried out without ceiling molding if an installation option is being considered in the future floor plinth, or finishing the ceiling using ceiling plinth.

We must not forget that when installing ceiling molding (No. 2), the floor in the room must be completely ready (covered with laminate, laid ceramic tile etc.)
In case of installing the starting strip (molding No. 6), it is possible to lay the finished floor and install the plinth after covering the walls with panels.

After the initial and final strips have been installed (at the floor and ceiling), you can begin installing the PVC lining.

It is advisable to start installing the lining from the corner of the room (building). For this purpose, corner moldings are installed vertically in the corner, securing them to the sheathing or to a pre-prepared wall. (Fig.3)

After installation corner strips Installation of panels can be carried out both to the right and to the left, but the comb of the lining should always be located in the direction of movement.

Having adjusted the lining in height with a hacksaw, bending it slightly, first insert it into the grooves of the initial and final strips, and then into the groove of the outer (inner) corner. When adjusting the lining in height, one should not forget about the gap for thermal expansion of the panels, which is 5 mm in summer and 10 mm in winter.

After installed and nailed with small identical nails (or staples furniture stapler) the first lining, the second and subsequent linings are installed in the same way. The verticality of the installation is controlled each time by the building level.

When approaching the door (window), the PVC lining is cut in accordance with the opening, and the cut ends are covered with end molding F (No. 3) or starting molding (No. 6). (Fig. 4)

Window openings and niches can be framed as starting bar(No. 6) and end molding F (No. 3). (Fig. 5)

When carrying out installation, you should not rush, and you must remember that the aesthetic appearance of the room (building) depends on the “cleanliness” of the work and the correct installation of the corners.

MOUNTING ON A WOODEN BAR

As a rule, PVC lining is mounted on wooden frame in increments of 40-50 cm, the cross-section of the slats can be from 13*40 mm or more. Using an electric drill, a plumb line and mounting level, attach the slats using screws and dowels to the surfaces to be coated. In case of uneven walls (ceilings), the sheathing is leveled using spacers made of wood, plywood, hardboard, etc. (Fig. 1)

In rooms with high humidity, small cuts (channels) should be made in the slats to ensure air circulation.
Sheathing slats must be placed at the beginning and end of the surface to be covered (near the floor and ceiling, at the beginning and end of the ceiling), as well as around openings (doors, windows, vents, etc.)
After finishing preparatory work You can begin installing the plastic lining.
As a rule, PVC lining is mounted on a wooden frame in increments of 40-50 cm; the cross-section of the lath can be from 13*40 mm or more. The rail is attached to the base using dowel nails. Between the cladding and the base remains small space, in which you can install hydro-, heat-, and sound insulation, hide electrical wiring and communications. But even without additional insulation, sheathing with plastic lining helps reduce the noise level in the room. When installing lining in rooms with high humidity, such as showers, bathrooms, it is recommended to pre-treat wooden slats with an antiseptic, thereby preventing the appearance of fungus.

MOUNTING ON A PLASTIC RAIL

Appeared not long ago new technology installation of plastic lining inside heated rooms - using assembly PVC profile and special metal mounting brackets.

Plastic mounting profile :
allows for quick installation by snapping the lining to the rail with staples;
simultaneously serves as a cable channel for electrical wiring;
is not afraid of dampness, eliminates the formation of mold and fungi;
eliminates warping;
versatility of application (installation of PVC and MDF panels);
low total installation cost;
the ability to dismantle the lining without damaging it;
installation does not require the use of additional tools.

PVC lath (lath) for installation of PVC lining. Size 3000x30x10

Bracket for attaching PVC lining to a plastic lath

Bracket- used for fastening the lining to the PVC mounting strip for PVC and MDF lining. The use of PVC mounting strip and clamps during installation significantly reduces the total cost of installation work, makes installation work more durable than when used wooden block, does not require the use of additional tools and leaves the possibility of dismantling the lining without damaging them at any time.

The procedure for performing work on installing PVC lining using a mounting profile.
1. The rail is attached to the base.

2. The slats are attached parallel to each other, at a distance of 30-50 cm

3. The corner profile snaps into place when you press the bracket

4. The lining is inserted into corner profile and its tongue is snapped with a bracket to the mounting rail. The next lining is inserted into the previous one and also snapped into place.

5. Mounting strip can be cut to required length using a fine tooth saw

INSTALLATION ON METAL PROFILE

Metal profile has increased corrosion resistance and has stable linear dimensions regardless of humidity. The base is covered using ceiling profiles Ppt 60*27 or 47*17, which are attached to the wall using special hangers and guide profiles with a cross section of 28*27 and 20*20, respectively. For installation of PVC lining on metal profiles use PShO 13-16mm self-tapping screws.

To create a beautiful and practical surface, various modern materials. One of them is plastic lining. In most cases, this material is used for cladding ceilings, the inside of balconies and outside houses.

Main characteristics of the material

The basis for the manufacture of plastic lining is polyvinyl chloride. Therefore, the finishing material has all the properties characteristic of PVC:

• resistance to rotting;
• fire resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• long operational period;
• safety original form throughout the entire service life;
• resistance to temperature changes, precipitation and ultraviolet rays;
• ease of installation and maintenance of the material;
• reasonable cost.

Thanks to the presence of honeycombs, the lining has excellent soundproofing characteristics. The smooth surface of the material allows it not to be treated or impregnated with a special compound (as is provided for wooden panels).

A large assortment color range makes it possible to turn any design solutions. You can purchase plastic lining to look like wood, thereby replacing wood with a more practical and durable coating. The same applies to plastic lining for the bathroom, which can replace tiles or other finishing material.

But the scope of application of plastic lining is not limited to interior decoration. The material is also suitable for cladding outside Houses. The only caveat is that the outer plastic lining must contain components that make it more resistant to negative temperature and precipitation.

The disadvantage of PVC lining is its instability to mechanical stress. It cannot withstand a load of more than 1.5 kg. Excessive pressure on the material can result in dents or holes. Due to its low strength, installation of plastic lining is carried out in places with a minimum number of people.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin the process of sheathing walls (or ceilings) with plastic lining, you should:

• calculate the need for materials;
• prepare the surface.

Requirement calculation

There are the following standard sizes plastic lining:

• panel length - 3-6 m (facade), 3 m (for interior decoration);
• width - 10-25 cm.

Based on the dimensions of the panel, the purchased material is determined. For example, if the ceiling dimensions are 4 * 3 m, then the minimum required is 16 three-meter panels with a width of 25 cm. Experts recommend buying 15-20% more material. In our case, 3 more panels should be added to the 16 panels.

The plastic lining is installed on the frame. For its production it is used wooden beam cross section 4*2 cm. To calculate required amount timber, the step of its fastening is taken into account. Typically, adjacent bars are mounted at a distance of 0.8-1 m from each other. Thus, for a ceiling measuring 4*3 m you will need 7-9 bars 2 m long.

Surface preparation

This stage involves removing the old coating, if it interferes with the installation of the sheathing, and leveling the base.

Next, the vapor barrier material is installed ( polyethylene film or roofing felt). The vapor barrier is secured using slats 2-3 cm wide. Small holes are made in the upper and lower parts to improve ventilation.

Frame structure

To implement high-quality installation plastic lining for interior work, a sheathing must be created from wooden slats. The use of this material will contribute to:

• leveling the wall;
• emergence ventilation gap between the cladding and the wall.

If there is a strong uneven wall you will have to use pads or thicker timber that fits under the frame slats. The following can be used as linings:

• plywood;
• pieces of wooden beams;
• mounting wedges.

To fix the sheathing beams, dowel nails are used. The lower slats should be located at a distance of 5-6 cm from the floor (for fastening the floor plinth), the upper ones - at a similar distance from the ceiling (for ceiling plinth). The frame is also created near door and window openings.

The direction of fastening the timber for the sheathing depends on the location of the slats with which it was fixed vapor barrier material. If the slats holding the vapor barrier are vertical, then the timber for the frame will be attached horizontally (and vice versa). To fix the sheathing to the vapor barrier slats, long self-tapping screws are used.

Surface thermal insulation

After arranging the sheathing, the resulting space between the slats is laid thermal insulation material. Commonly used mineral wool, for reliable fixation of which polypropylene twine with a construction stapler is used.

When finishing a bathroom with plastic lining, another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the thermal insulation material. After which you can begin covering the room with the finishing coating.

It is optional to use insulation when a warm room is lined with clapboard. In this case, in the space between finishing material and elements of communication systems can be laid as a wall.

Installation work

Now let’s get straight to how to attach the plastic lining. Work begins from the corner of the room. To make it easier to screw in the screws, it is recommended to first make holes for the fasteners. For these purposes, a thin drill is used.

The starting plastic profile (molding) is immediately attached. After that, the lining panel prepared to size is mounted into the molding on the side where the tenon is located. Must be checked correct location panels in a vertical/horizontal plane. Only after such a check is the final fixation of the panel made.

In addition to using self-tapping screws, you can also use:

• construction stapler with staples;
• fasteners intended for laminate;
• liquid nails.

Despite this variety, the best option is to use self-tapping screws.

The technology for attaching the following panels will not cause difficulties:

• appropriate measurements are taken;
• Using a hacksaw, the required piece of material is cut;
• the cut panel is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the already laid lining;
• snapping occurs along the entire length of the panel;
• The opposite side of the panel is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The last panel is inserted with one side into the corner molding, and the other into the groove of the previous lining. In the same way, not only walls are faced, but also the surface near doors and windows. Finishing cut parts of the material occurs using decorative profile. The installation of the panels itself is carried out perpendicular to the sheathing beam.

In the process of lining a room with plastic lining, the presence of openings for communications should be provided. To a greater extent, this concerns the installation of electrical wiring. If lamps or chandeliers are subsequently installed, the sheathing must be reinforced with additional strips.

__________________________________________________

Today we will tell you about how to attach plastic lining, and what it represents finishing coat. In order to decide on the material from which it will be made finishing panels, it is necessary to understand the properties of each of them; today it is plastic that will be subject to consideration.

First of all, I would like to say that you can easily install plastic panels with your own hands, without anyone’s help, but a couple of hands in the work process still won’t hurt.

Simple fastening process

First you need to find out what types of fastening exist for the material in question. There are only two of them, but this is still more than for wooden lining, because in that case, the panels can only be attached to the sheathing.

The advantage of plastic is its flexibility, that is, you can easily cut the panel you need to the required size. To do this, you will need a regular knife, just to have it sharpened, or, if you have one, a jigsaw. The best option for this kind of work - a metal knife, you can handle it in half a minute.

Don't forget about installing the finishing profile - this is the finishing point in our business. Such elements give the design completeness and appearance it can be called ideal, because we used hidden fasteners and profiles for its construction. This completes the process of finishing the room with plastic panels.

Conclusion

A detailed description of all stages will help you quickly and correctly decorate a room or premises with plastic lining. This material is practical, light, strong and beautiful. On the market today building materials You can find any color and size of such panels, so you have the right to come up with any design, because you will definitely be able to find the intended color of the finishing material.

It should be noted that the price of plastic lining is low and inferior to the cost of all other analogues of such products. In order to be sure to understand the entire finishing process, look at photos and videos on this topic.