Electrical wiring in the house begins with installation in special wall sockets plastic containers– installation boxes. Those that are inserted into concrete or other rigid fences, such as bricks, are called socket boxes.

They are hollow glasses, smooth on the inside, and on the outside they have small protrusions and teeth for reliable fixation. On the back wall of the case there are punched hatches for cable passage various diameters. And on the front there are holes for fastening electrical products with screws. Their use guarantees the functional safety of electrical points.

Types of socket boxes

Basic electrical products are standardized. There is no special nomenclature, but they are classified:

• By internal diameters, the sizes of which vary from 60 to 68 mm.
• According to installation depth. The minimum landing starts from 25 mm, the maximum – from 80. The most popular ones are 40-45 mm deep.
• For single and block models, the body of which has plastic partitions that separate the connection points by a distance of at least 7.1 cm.
• According to the material of manufacture. Mainly made from polypropylene. But there are also metal ones, made of silumin or galvanized, which must be installed in wooden houses in accordance with fire safety standards.

A plastic socket box for concrete is characterized by:

• high strength and durability of the material;
• low electrical conductivity;
• ease of installation;
• good adhesion to concrete;
• reliable fastening.

Installation step by step

Wall placement begins with preparation necessary tools and materials. For this we use:

• Hammer and diamond bit with a diameter of 70 mm, slightly larger than standard size socket box. Or a drill with a Pobedit drill, or, in extreme cases, a grinder with a grinding wheel.
• Hammer and chisel.
• Narrow spatula.
• Level.
• A composition based on gypsum, or alabaster, or putty.
• Container for solution.

Installation is performed in the following sequence:

1. Marking of the installation of the electrical product is made. The planned hole is marked on the wall. Either as specified in the project, or according to the standards adopted by electricians.

The data is not strictly regulated. Sometimes switches are located according to the arm's length rule, especially in own home. At the level of the middle of the palm, plus or minus 5 cm, you can install a socket box that will be convenient for everyone. If installation is planned next to the door, then you need to step back 15-20 cm from the edge of the opening, not counting the frame.

2. The hole is made with any of the above tools. If the work is carried out using a crown, then first its guide drill enters the intended center of the marking, then the entire hollow cylinder cuts into the surface.

If you use it, you must first mark the outline and its center on the wall. Starting from the last one and along the entire perimeter, drill holes (the closer to each other, the better) to the entire depth of the installation box. Using a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit, bring the seat to the desired size.

The use of a small angle grinder, which in everyday life is called a “grinder” or angle grinder, does not immediately provide the required depth. Usually the disc enters at a lower level in the thickness of the concrete than necessary, so after the angle grinder you should still work with a chisel. This method is the fastest, but also the dustiest.

3. Install the structure into the finished cavity for fitting. The depth of the seat should be 0.4-0.5 cm greater than the product. This is necessary for further filling of the fixation solution and the wire entry.

For further ease of installation, it is better to trim the edges of the hole made with a knife. This will allow the body of the shrink box to adhere more closely to the wall, while its “skirt” can be installed flush with the concrete surface. If this is not done, the frame may move 1-2 mm away from the wall.

4. Next, using a hammer with a chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit, a groove is made in the upper part of the mounting socket for laying the wire. We press or cut out a hatch on the back side of the container required diameter to enter the cable and pull it into the product body. We insert the socket box with the cable into the socket so that there is still 2-3 mm left in the depth for the gypsum mortar.

5. Let's start preparing the fixing composition. To do this, mix the powder and water, remembering that hardening occurs quite quickly. It is necessary to clean the finished hole in the concrete wall, and then moisten it generously with water until completely absorbed. Use a spatula to fill its bottom with the mixture and insert the socket box with the wire so that the solution not only covers back wall, but also squeezed out of the slots a little. Sometimes, for better fastening, the container body itself is coated with a fixing frame.

6. The glass should either fit flush with the socket concrete wall, or “drown” 0.1-.15 cm deeper than its surface. Correctness, namely vertical installation, is checked by level. This requirement must be observed for further trouble-free installation of the inserted electrical product.

7. Use a spatula to place the fixing compound into the gaps between the wall and the body. At the same time, we align the glass so that the mounting screws are parallel to the floor. After the solution has completely dried, remove the excess from the wall.

Since the work of an electrician involves life-threatening factors, it is necessary to adhere to the labor protection rules regulated for this activity. The installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall presented above was described for installation in a new building not connected to the electrical grid. If everything is done where there is already voltage, for example, in the case of replacing an old outlet with a new one, then its presence must first be checked using a multimeter. And only after making sure that the circuit breaker, which is located in the metering and distribution panel, is turned off, can you proceed.

Working with a grinder is fraught not only with a dusty curtain, but also with flying small pieces of concrete that threaten to cause wounds on the face. Therefore, they use means personal protection such as safety glasses, a mask or a respirator.

The gypsum mixture must be worked out within 5-7 minutes, and the alabaster mixture in 4-5. This is not always convenient, especially if a person does not have much experience in installing electrical products and working with these compounds.

If the installation was performed poorly and there was a need to adjust it, then you will have to destroy everything and start over. Therefore, it is better for non-professionals to use gypsum putty Knauf Fugen (Fugenfüller) or Rotband plaster, containing gypsum. Their hardening begins after 30-40 minutes and proceeds evenly, while domestic gypsum mixtures do not have such regular hardening, but are distinguished by good adhesion with a spatula, which interferes with work. When using our solutions, it must be constantly moistened.

Most often in our apartments and houses there are walls made of brick or concrete, and in new buildings it is not uncommon to see walls made of foam blocks. How to install socket boxes in such walls. Correct marking of the wall for socket boxes.

Apartment in a secondary building, a private house or a new building that we have just moved into - we have brick walls in front of us and since we are thinking about updating the electrical system, or making it anew, sooner or later we will have to install socket boxes in them.

There are no difficulties in installing socket boxes in brick walls. The main thing is to follow the rules correctly technological process and perform each stage of work responsibly and carefully. If all conditions are met, everything will turn out beautifully and efficiently, even if you are doing it for the first time. Of course, it’s better to entrust such work to professionals, but it doesn’t always make sense when you need to make a couple of socket boxes. And some people just like to do everything themselves.

Let's first figure out at what point we should start installing socket boxes and at what point we can start doing this? Many people do it differently and motivate it in their own way.

1. Installation of socket boxes before laying the cable– first we make crowns for the socket boxes and only then lay the cable to them
2. Installing socket boxes after laying the cable- most often done this way
3. Installation of socket boxes after roughing finishing works – first, the cable routing is done, then the finishers apply a leveling layer of plaster and only after that the socket boxes are installed.

Over time, we came to the latter option. This is especially true for brick walls and walls made of foam blocks. Why in this order? Everything is very simple. If possible, in the process of communication with finishing team We agree that the guys will install beacons so that we can see where a groove is needed and where we can do without it. Why should customers pay extra money, but we should do absolutely nothing? the right job? Immediately after installing the beacons, we install the electrical wiring and secure the cable terminals where the socket boxes will later be located. Finishers perform rough finishing work, after which we come and install the socket boxes.

Why is this option best?

• We already have a final plane of the wall and the socket box will no longer sink into it. After all, it often happens that the layer of plaster, especially in the old foundation, is 3-10 cm long. If we install the socket box before the plaster, we have every chance of simply not finding it, and it will no longer perform its functions. And in our case, all socket boxes will be installed correctly.
• If you install the socket boxes before plaster, then you will then have to rake out a bunch of this frozen plaster from the socket boxes, and why do this if you don’t have to do it.
• It’s just more convenient for us and everything looks much more beautiful. And contemplation own work should bring pleasure.

So let's imagine that plastering work completed and in front of us is a wall with protruding cable leads. Where to start and what are our next steps?

Let's start by preparing the tools and everything we will need in the process.

1. Crown for brick socket boxes. The diameter of the crown can be 68 mm and 80 mm. Why can you use crowns with a diameter of 80 mm, because the diameter of most crowns is 68 mm? It's simple - to make it easier to install the socket box, we make the hole a little larger than necessary. A group of socket boxes fit into such holes just fine; there is enough space for maneuvers, cable insertion, and adjustments. With 68 mm crowns it is somewhat more difficult. Our walls are brick and making holes for socket boxes in them is quite simple, so an 80 mm crown will not complicate our task at all.
2. Level– regular or laser in order to position groups of socket boxes horizontally.
3. Measuring tool– ruler or tape measure for marking
4. Brick sockets– prepare in advance required amount socket boxes, and how to choose them, read the article about.
5. Construction vacuum cleaner – making holes for socket boxes is a rather dusty process. You can make 2 – 4 crowns and look like a hedgehog in the fog. A construction vacuum cleaner will make the job cleaner and save your lungs.
6. Spatulas– are necessary for fixing the socket boxes; you should also prepare in advance a container in which you will mix the gypsum mixture. Small containers in which mixtures for 2 to 4 sockets are mixed are very convenient.

We have prepared everything and can begin the process of installing socket boxes in brick walls. I will show you everything using the example of a foam block wall.

Stages of work on installing socket boxes in a brick wall

1. Taking the project in hand, we measure required dimensions and mark the wall for a group of socket boxes; you can read about marking in detail in the article about. There is no point in repeating yourself, the process is completely identical.
2. 
   After marking the wall, we insert a brick drill with a diameter of 6 mm into the hammer drill and mark holes in the wall in the centers of the future socket boxes. We do this in order to further center the crown on the brick and make the work easier.
3. 
   Next, we change the drill to a crown and begin to drill holes, do not rush and put too much pressure on the crown. If you purchased an impact bit, as in our photos, then you can turn on the drilling + impact mode, but usually just the drilling mode is enough.
   
4. 
   We knock out the centers from the prepared holes and break the jumpers between them, this is necessary so that the group of socket boxes fits into the resulting hole. It is best to purchase socket boxes like those in our photographs; they are very convenient to install.
5. Using a vacuum cleaner, carefully remove all dust from the hole and treat it with a primer. We wait a little for the primer to absorb into the surface. At this time, we can clean the wires from the plaster, align them and prepare them for insertion into the socket box.
6. 
   We assemble the required number of socket boxes into a group, break out holes for cable entry, and try them on in the prepared hole. Nothing should interfere. The socket boxes should fit very freely and not deform inside the hole.
7. 
   As soon as everything is ready, take the prepared mixture (for example, rotband) and fill each hole with the mixture about halfway, spread it over the walls and more or less evenly. We take our socket boxes, insert the cable into them and press them into the holes. The excess mixture will be squeezed out through the holes, it’s okay, that’s how it should be - you can’t leave voids.
8. Using a level, level the socket boxes horizontally and remove excess mixture with a spatula.
9. We leave the socket boxes for 30 - 40 minutes and check the quality of the work done. If everything was done correctly, the socket boxes will not crawl anywhere and will be level with the plane of the wall. Let the mixture that has come out inside the socket dry first, this will make it easier to remove. The fact that the mixture was squeezed out inside the socket boxes indicates that we installed the socket box very well and it will stay in the wall very well.

Now we can admire our work. Now we can wait for the finishing work to be completed - puttying and wallpapering - and continue installing the fittings. If we use, we make the necessary connections; you can read about how to do this correctly in the article about. Next, install the fittings and enjoy what we get.

What important points may be in the process of installing socket boxes in a brick wall?

1. It is necessary to accurately mark the wall
2. Carefully and without haste make a hole for the socket box
3. Be sure to remove dust and treat with primer.
4. Do not skimp on the mixture - the excess will be squeezed out and the socket box will be securely fastened.

That's all. We learned how to install a socket box in a brick wall. If you didn’t find something in this article, then ask questions, we will definitely answer and add to it.

After completing the work on marking the electrical wiring routes and installation sites for switching equipment, the stage of drilling niches for socket boxes or, as manufacturers correctly call them, round type-setting installation boxes without a lid begins.

In addition to the fastening function, they act as fireproof protection against fire, plus they provide the required level of insulation. Because walls count conductive material and you cannot install sockets in them directly without these boxes.

But first, you need not to make a mistake with their choice.

Types of socket boxes

For concrete walls will do plastic version without presser feet.

Those that have such paws are used for plasterboard walls or plastic panels.

There are all-block options on different quantities seats - from two to five.

Their main advantage is that they do not bend or deform during installation. Moreover, they can be used both in plasterboard and in a regular wall.

Well, the most scarce option today is a metal socket box for wooden walls. It can be either with or without a bottom.

For hidden electrical wiring wooden house Only such specimens are allowed to be buried in the tree.

The depth of the socket box also plays a role. It can be standard and in-depth.

Standard depth 45mm. Recessed version 60mm.

If you plan, in addition to the socket or switch itself, to also disconnect wires in it (soldering to other sockets, etc.), then you only need to buy a recessed one.

Tools and consumables

What tools are needed to install a socket box in a concrete wall?

A more expensive option, but it has its advantages:

1) the time for drilling the socket is almost the same as using an SDS-max crown
2) use of a lightweight SDS-plus hammer drill - less tired hands, no shocks
3) less noise and dust during operation

Remember that diamond drilling excludes any impact mode. Only drill mode is allowed.

The instructions usually indicate for diamond core bits that they are intended for wet drilling. However, as practice shows, the wear of the crown, even during dry operation, is minimal.

In addition, when water is supplied, the slag can “knit” the crown. Crowns for drilling ordinary socket boxes, as a rule, should have a diameter of 68 mm.

If you don't want to score installation box into a niche, and have room for its free installation and adjustment, then use a diameter of 72mm. For the block type, only these are suitable.

Some people use a diameter of 65 mm, after which they even manage to tightly insert a socket or switch directly into the resulting hole, spreading the product with its paws against a concrete wall or even drywall.

This cannot be done, as stated above, walls are considered conductive material.

If an RCD suddenly starts tripping in your house, one of the reasons for this may be the refusal to use socket boxes and installing sockets directly into the wall. Therefore, do not immediately blame the cable, but check the sockets first.

The PUE also speaks about the need to install socket boxes:

Rules for installing a socket box

The operating procedure is as follows:

Drilling depth - 5cm.

If you leave it, then when the hammer shakes during operation, the drill may become wedged and break off. In addition, when diamond drilling without impact, the drill will only smooth the concrete and interfere with the work.

• finish drilling the concrete with a crown to the required depth (about 5 cm)

The depth can be set in advance by placing the box on the bit and marking the required drilling distance with a marker.

When drilling, you need to rock the hammer slightly from side to side. This is necessary so that the sludge comes out and the crown does not jam. In this case, you need to adapt, since strong swaying also leads to a wedge.

This action greatly influences both the speed of operation and the increase in the service life of the product.

Installation in high strength concrete with fittings

If the concrete turns out to be highly durable, you start drilling and realize that this will take a long time, you can make your work much easier.

To do this, make several holes along the circle you started with an 8mm drill. You should end up with something similar to a revolver drum.

After this, continue with diamond or impact drilling. From there it should go like clockwork.

If you hit a large piece of reinforcement and you don’t want to ruin the new crown, then you can get out of the situation in two ways:

• switch the hammer drill to the chipper mode and knock it out with a chisel

True, this can greatly contribute to the appearance of new cracks in the plaster.

Knock out the concrete from the niche (using a chisel and hammer or a hammer drill), while providing a bevel for inserting the cable into the socket box.

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and dust.

Preparing the solution and installing it in a niche

The next stage is the installation of the socket boxes themselves in the prepared niches. You can install socket boxes on alabaster, putty or plaster.

The hardening time of the plaster is approximately four to five minutes. Of course, finishing the installation job in 5 minutes is not a problem. home headache- this is the hardening of the prepared solution in a diluted container and the impossibility of using it for other work.

Therefore, to prevent the plaster from hardening too quickly, you can mix plaster (Rotband) into it. You will gain an extra 10-20 minutes. Add 2 parts putty to 3 parts plaster.

The plaster just holds much weaker. When solidified cement mortar shrinks, but the plaster, on the contrary, expands a little and securely clamps the socket box in the niche from all sides.

In order for alabaster and plaster to stick more firmly, the niche must be moistened. Use a sprayer or sprinkler.

By the way, it is best to make a groove for the wire not in the center, but to the left or right of the hole in the wall.

Since the outlet hole in the socket itself is on the side.

The solution is poured into drilled hole niches.

A socket box is inserted into the niche.

Everything is rubbed down with a spatula and the remaining mortar is removed from the outside.

The main task is to align and fix the socket box in its place. Make sure that its edges do not protrude from the wall.

Once the solution has set, you can remove all excess from the inside.

After finishing work, the sockets themselves are installed. This seemingly simple work also has its own rules and mistakes that can lead to irreparable consequences.

Common mistakes

• Installation of socket boxes is recommended to be done after plastering the walls

Otherwise, you may not be able to align the outlet flush. And due to a couple of extra centimeters of plaster, you can easily have enough depth, and you will never reach the reinforcement.

However, it is not always possible to maintain such a sequence. repair work. For example, if you have a plaster mesh, as reinforcement on some bases (such as gas blocks), then cutting grooves along it negates the meaning of the entire reinforcement.

Therefore, if you have no other option, you will have to adhere to a certain technology for installing socket boxes before plastering. Here's a good one qualitative example such work:

• installing sockets in a concrete wall without a socket box

As mentioned above, this is against the rules. And if at first everything works properly, then expect problems in the future (the walls will begin to shock, or the RCD will trip).

The solution will float, and the box will move 1-2mm from its seat. You can, of course, buy a special template for installing a large block.

But it’s easier to use this simple device.

In addition, the foam does not give the walls of the box the necessary rigidity and how firmly the socket will sit in it remains a big question. Therefore, never be lazy to dilute the solution and use alabaster, gypsum or other mixtures.

• incorrect cable routing

When laying the cable, monitor its position. It should not pass through those places where the socket's fastening antennae will expand in the future.

Often it is with these tendrils that the insulation of the wires is pierced, after which the voltage appears on the body!

• socket box popping out of the wall

If a box that has already been installed in the wall has popped out of the wall, and there is wallpaper on the outside and there is no possibility or desire to stain everything with a solution, then use a self-tapping screw. Screw the dowel into the base of the socket box and pull it to the back wall.

However, this option is still considered temporary. If you pull the plug tightly out of the socket, the entire structure can again be torn out by the roots.

The drill must be pulled out after passing the 5-10mm guides. Without a blow, it will practically not work for you, but will only interfere.

An auxiliary but integral element of the electrical system are socket boxes. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities to accommodate hidden wiring. It allows you to hide wires and contacts not only of sockets, but also of switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, heated floor). Correct installation– a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic – a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.

Preparatory activities imply not only taking a number of pre-installation actions, but also purchasing certain materials and tools in advance. To work you will need:

• alabaster/plaster;
• primer;
• putty knife;
• hammer/drill;
• drill/drill 8 mm thick;
• diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket box is standard);
• special spatula or chisel + hammer;
• building level;
• marker/pencil;
• ruler/hard tape measure;
• indicator screwdriver;
• sandpaper;
• cable/wire products;
• the electrical device itself (if it is a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.

Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work necessary by marking the area where the device will be located. To this end, at concrete wall Use a pencil or marker to draw the middle of the future outlet, switch or other device. If you plan to install a block, then the center of the outermost fixture is initially marked on the surface. A line is subsequently drawn through it along the level, equal to length the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the remaining electrical installation products.

Drilling holes for socket boxes

It is best to use a hammer drill for this. Using it, you will need to drill a hole in the intended center by placing the drill. Afterwards, the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked outline appears, the drill is removed from the equipment by unscrewing the bolt. Next, the crown is put on the hammer again, on which a mark must be made indicating the depth to which it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle is changed again. This time, a spatula is put on the hammer and the excess concrete is knocked out. If it is not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and hammer are used.

In situations where there is neither a hammer drill nor a drill available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating sections that have different directions in the marking areas. Afterwards, pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.

Guide to installing socket boxes in the wall

Having drilled a hole and punched grooves into it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed with direct electrical installation. For this purpose, you should place a socket box in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly secured and not tilted at all. Then you need to insert the wires supplying the future device into the hole located in the background.

The next goal is to securely fasten the box to the wall:

1. clean the base from dust;
2. treat the hole with a primer, which will ensure durability;
3. dilute the plaster/putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of construction/medical plaster, it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy, homogeneous consistency is formed);
4. Apply the composition inside the hole with a spatula;
5. put the socket box in the socket and press it into the solution (it should come out concrete surface through the slots).

It is important to carry out installation extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in literally 2-3 minutes. The product must be aligned so that the screws are horizontal to the floor and the box is completely recessed into the base. Check for correctness with a level applied diagonally to the device. It cannot be moved in the future: the plaster/alabaster must harden completely. Excess that comes out is removed.

If dips, chips, or potholes appear in the concrete for the socket box after completion of the work, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled using sandpaper. Final stage – finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, etc.).

Possible mistakes

Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with unpleasant consequences. The most common problem is the product falling out or poor fixation in the wall. If this happens, you can cope with the problem in 2 ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket box;
• Using a glue gun, securely secure the box in the slot.

Another common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket/switch. Hazardous potential exists on the device housing, which could lead to short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket box should not interfere at all future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.

1. Switches and socket boxes can be installed anywhere. The main thing is to comply with one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be at least 1 m from the selected installation point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet; electrical devices cannot be installed at all due to danger.

2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum/alabaster only for small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.

3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when it comes time to repair contacts.

4. If we're talking about about installing 1-2 socket boxes, then buying a diamond crown will be a pointless waste of money. It would be more appropriate to replace it with attachments equipped with pobedit teeth, or even use a grinder with a disc.

Articles

They were installed in the wall without the possibility of replacement, that is, simply put, they were built in. In the event of a malfunction, it was impossible to replace such an outlet - it was necessary to pick out the wall and get out the old product. Now almost every owner knows what installing socket boxes is - after all, it is thanks to them that replacing failed switches, sockets and devices has become much easier and simpler. However, not everyone knows how to install a socket box correctly and evenly, so let’s look at this issue in more detail.

How to choose a socket box

Some useful tips will help you install socket boxes exactly as needed:

1. When buying a socket box, immediately purchase sockets and switches along with it. Immediately in the store, make sure that the socket fits freely into the socket box; it can be secured with screws and a supply of wires can be placed inside the socket box. There is no need to be embarrassed to ask the seller for another socket box - without doing this, then you may have to go and buy new ones.
2. Using these tips, you can install a socket box in almost any wall, even without much experience. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations given in this article.

Video

This video describes in detail the installation of socket boxes: