Experienced gardeners and gardeners noticed that some vegetables grow well together, while some, on the contrary, interfere with each other’s growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart planting will provide you with a larger harvest...

Choice of garden neighbors.

Choosing garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but in the vicinity of another companion plant. This tactic helps to minimize harmful effects insects and diseases.

Garden neighbor rules. When choosing garden neighbors, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, do well planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help repel pests from cabbage. Planted in the same bed as cabbage, mint will improve its taste.

Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables retard growth and reduce each other's yield.

What vegetables grow well in one bed?

In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop with another, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in garden beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.

Flowers next to vegetables.

Good advice: Plant a few marigolds in the tomato bed to repel pests. You can even decorate the entire perimeter of the garden with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.

Marigolds in the garden

Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium and will not pay attention to nearby vegetables.

Vegetables and herbs.

Planting herbs nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose barrier against most insect pests.

When deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also common sense. Lettuce, radishes and other fast-growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radishes will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Loving shadow green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and chard, are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn because their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.

Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.

COMPATIBILITY OF VEGETABLES

Neighbors for carrots.

The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:

rosemary;

tomatoes.

And here is a negative neighborhood for carrots:

parsley.

Pepper grows well next to:

basil;

coriander;

spinach;

tomatoes.

Do not plant peppers near beans.

Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:

broccoli;

cabbage;

corn;

eggplants;

garlic;

radish.

You can’t plant potatoes if they grow nearby:

sunflowers;

basil;

cucumbers;

carrots;

celery;

parsley;

spinach;

thyme;

Do not place tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn next to each other.

Neighbors for asparagus.

An excellent neighborhood for asparagus would be:

parsley;

tomatoes.

What should you not plant asparagus with?

Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.

Optimal neighborhood for beans:

broccoli;

corn;

celery;

cauliflower;

eggplant;

potato;

strawberry;

tomatoes.

Undesirable neighborhood for beans:

sunflowers;

Beets will give a greater yield next to:

broccoli;

cauliflower;

Undesirable neighbors in the beet bed:

Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.

celery;

potato;

Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:

cauliflower;

green beans;

tomatoes.

Brussels sprouts bed neighbors:

Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor - tomatoes.

Neighbors for cabbage.

What can I plant cabbage next to?

celery;

potato;

Undesirable neighbors in the cabbage bed:

broccoli;

cauliflower;

strawberry;

tomatoes.

cauliflower and the neighborhood in the garden

Cauliflower and its neighbors:

celery;

Bad neighbors for cauliflower:

broccoli;

strawberry;

tomatoes.

celery's neighbors in the garden

Celery grows best with:

broccoli;

cabbage;

cauliflower;

leeks;

spinach;

broccoli;

corn;

cabbage;

cauliflower;

sunflowers;

Cucumbers should not be planted next to herbs, melons and potatoes.

Corn and its neighborhood.

Optimal neighbors:

potato;

sunflowers.

But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!

They feel great next to:

basil;

potatoes;

spinach.

What should I plant onions next to?

The best neighborhood for onions will be:

tomatoes;

broccoli;

potato;

Worst:

Peas and their neighbors in the garden.

Peas feel great next to:

carrots;

corn;

cucumbers;

eggplants;

parsnip;

potatoes;

spinach;

Do not plant peas near beds with onions and garlic.

Useful weeds in the garden.

Sometimes plants can only be beneficial to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of soil and bring them to the surface. As weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available at the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. This is why some vegetables grow very well next to nettles.

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There are plant species that get along well with each other and certain species that slow down the growth of their neighbors and grow slowly themselves. In general, some plants love each other and some hate each other.

Combined plantings can be quite complicated and often even too complicated, but with experience you will begin to understand better and the process will go faster. The main thing is not to get carried away with excessive planning, otherwise the pleasure of planting will wane.

Nobody says that you can’t grow certain plants in the same garden, the main thing is not to plant them next to each other. Below is a table with which you can see which plants get along well with each other and which do not.

Combined plantings are not such an easy task. There are criteria such as the age of the plants, their number in the garden bed, and the distance between plants. With the right approach, you can figure out for yourself what is better or worse for certain species.

Vegetable compatibility table.

Plant	Good neighbors	Bad neighbors
Asparagus	Tomatoes, parsley, basil
Beans	Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant	Onion, garlic, gladius, chives
Bush beans	Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery	Onion
Climbing beans	Corn, sunflower	Onions, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage
Beet	Onion, kohlrabi	Beans
Cabbage (cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi)	Aromatic plants, potatoes, celery, dill, hyssop, chamomile, sage, mint, rosemary, beets, onions	Strawberries, tomatoes, climbing beans
Carrot	Peas, lettuce, chives, leeks, onions, rosemary, sage, tomatoes	Dill
Celery	Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage
Chives	Carrots, tomatoes	Peas, beans
Corn	Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, melon, pumpkin, zucchini	Tomatoes
cucumbers	Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers, lettuce	Potatoes, aromatic herbs
Eggplant	Beans, potatoes, spinach
Leek	Onions, celery, carrots
Salad	Carrots and radishes, strawberries, cucumbers, onions
Melon	Corn, nasturtiums, radishes
Onion	Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, leeks, chamomile, peppers	Peas, beans
Parsley	Tomatoes, asparagus
Peas	Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn	Onions, garlic, gladiolus, potatoes, chives
Potato	Beans, corn, cabbage, marigolds, eggplants (as bait for the Colorado potato beetle)	Pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries
Pepper	Onion
Pumpkin	Corn
Radish	Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce, melon, cucumbers	Hyssop
Spinach	Strawberry, eggplant
Zucchini	Nasturtiums, corn	Potato
Strawberry	Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (on the border), onion	Cabbage
Sunflower	cucumbers	Potato
Tomato	Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus, marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots	Corn, kohlrabi
Turnip	peas

List of herbs, their properties and plants that go well with them.

Plant	Properties
Basil	Companion plant for tomatoes; actively dislikes rue; improves growth and taste; repels flies and mosquitoes
Borage	Companion plant for tomatoes, zucchini and strawberries; repels tomato worms; improves growth and taste
Caraway	Plant everywhere; loosens the soil
Cat mint	Plant along the edge; repels earthen fleas
Chamomile	Companion plant for cabbage and onions; improves growth and taste
Chives	Companion plant for carrots; improves growth and taste
Dill	Companion plant for cabbage; does not like carrots, promotes the growth and health of cabbage
Fennel	It is better not to plant in the garden, most plants do not like being next to it
Linen	Companion plant for carrots and potatoes; repels potato beetles; improves growth and taste
Garlic	Plant next to roses and raspberries, repels beetles, promotes growth and health
Horseradish	Plant in the corners of a potato field to repel potato bugs
Hyssop	Repels cabbages; companion plant for cabbage and grapes. Do not plant next to radishes
Melissa	It is better to plant throughout the garden
Lovage	Promotes plant growth, improves taste
Marigold	Excellent at repelling pests, can be planted throughout the garden
Marjoram	Improves taste, can be planted anywhere
Mint	Companion plant for tomatoes and cabbage; Promotes healthy growth, improves taste, repels cabbages
Nasturtium	Companion plant for radishes, cabbage and pumpkin; plant under fruit trees; improves growth and taste
Peppermint	Planting among cabbage repels pest butterflies
Petunia	Protects beans
Calendula	Companion plant for tomatoes, but can be planted throughout the garden, repels pests
Purslane	Repels pests
Rosemary	Companion plant for cabbage, beans, carrots and sage; repels pests
Sage	Plant with rosemary, cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers; scares away cabbages
Sagebrush	Plant throughout the garden as a companion plant for cabbage; improves taste and promotes growth; scares away cabbages
Garden savory	Plant with beans and onions; improves taste and promotes growth
Tansy	Plant under fruit trees; companion plant for roses and raspberries; repels flying insects and ants
Tarragon	Useful anywhere in the garden
Thyme	Repels cabbage caterpillars; plant throughout the garden
Valerian	Useful anywhere in the garden
Yarrow	Plant along borders, paths and next to aromatic herbs; increases essential oil production

In many regions of Russia there is still snow at the dachas, and frosts continue. But spring is just around the corner, and although summer residents don’t have any practical things to do yet, it’s time to get into theory - so let’s talk about the proximity of vegetables and other plants on the site.

So, I myself have noticed that tomatoes planted for many years in a row in one place in the garden suffer from late blight and cutworms in the garden many times (!) more often, and the disease is much more severe, and treatment and spraying are not as effective. Potato growers also know that potatoes in one place are more susceptible to moths, the tubers become smaller, and any one planted for many years in one place degenerates 2-3 times more intensely and no longer produces more than the yields that the gardener expects.

When planting vegetables small area It is necessary to consider how one plant affects another. This is the only way to ensure a good harvest.

Each garden plant needs a different amount of space, light, nutrients and moisture. To achieve harmonious coexistence of plants in a small area, consider several factors.

Neighborhood of vegetables

You should not plant plants next to each other, the underground part of which is in one layer. To protect themselves from certain pests or pathogens, the roots of vegetables and herbs secrete complex compounds into the soil. They can have a beneficial effect on some plants and become toxic to others. For example, mustard root secretions are beneficial for peas, garlic and carrots and harmful for cabbage.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to grow the same plant in one place in the garden for more than a year. For example, beets only when mixed plantings can grow in one place for up to three years, since plants of other species absorb and process its root secretions, preventing them from accumulating in the soil. Pumpkin, some cabbage, parsley, celery, and carrots are not so picky in this regard. Corn, beans and leeks grow well without replanting.

Pests

An equally important reason why it is necessary to alternate vegetables at one planting site is that diseases and sometimes pests of this vegetable accumulate in this place over several years.

Cucumbers, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, beans, and lettuce especially suffer from this.

Changing plantings helps fight the most common pests, such as cabbage, carrot and onion flies, without the use of chemicals. After plants that are affected by certain diseases and pests, crops that are resistant to them will be added. It is especially important to follow this rule for the cabbage and nightshade families.

Mineral supplementation and fertilizer

For getting good harvest It's worth knowing how much nutrients certain vegetables need. This determines how much fertilizing will be applied after harvesting the crops.

All types of cabbage and celery are the most demanding in terms of nutrition.

Pumpkins, nightshades, as well as all types of onions, lettuce, spinach and corn occupy an intermediate place.

Carrots, parsnips, root parsley, radishes, radishes, and beets require minimal conditions.

Vegetables from the same family need similar nutrients. If they are planted one after another in one place, this leads to one-sided depletion of the soil. It is recommended to plant demanding crops in the first year, legumes in the second, and less demanding plants in the third. Then the alternation is repeated.

In addition, in a small area, the depth of plant roots, their height and ripening time are taken into account. The latter is especially important if we're talking about about mixed plantings.

Useful plants

For the best condition of plantings, it is recommended to sow vegetables ornamental plants, releasing phytoncidal or insecticidal substances: calendula, nasturtium, matthiol. Honey plants can be excellent neighbors of vegetables: basil, marjoram, savory, catnip, lemon balm. Planted and flowering plants celery family - caraway, anise, dill, as well as sunflower, chamomile, daisies, lavender, oregano.

There are plants that improve soil fertility. For example, some legumes, clover, and alfalfa enrich the soil thanks to nodule bacteria on the roots that absorb nitrogen from the air, so after alfalfa, potatoes grow just fine and without nitroammophosphate.

And due to the deep root system, they enable the upper layer of the soil to receive potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Cumin, buckwheat, flax, and rapeseed also improve soil properties.

The general condition of the plants depends on the assortment of the garden - the more diverse it is, the better the plantings grow and produce a larger harvest. Crops related to the various types and to various families. The most popular vegetables and root vegetables belong to two families - cabbage and celery.

What families of vegetables are there?

• Celeriacs: parsley, celery, carrots, parsnips, cumin, dill and fennel.
• Brassicas: cauliflower, white and red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Savoy, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, as well as rutabaga, radishes, radishes, turnips, mustard, horseradish, watercress, turnips.
• Aster family: chicory and all types of lettuce.
• Poagrass: corn.
• Chenopodiaceae: beets, spinach.
• Alliums: all types of onions and garlic.
• Nightshades: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants.
• Legumes: peas, beans and beans, also soybeans.
• Buckwheat: rhubarb, sorrel.
• Pumpkin: cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, squash and zucchini, zucchini.

Optimal rotation for good yields

After tomatoes and potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, and beets grow well. Instead of cucumbers and zucchini, radishes, cabbage, beets, and beans are grown. Carrots, dill, parsley, celery should replace onions, potatoes, and tomatoes. After beans, peas, garlic and onions, all crops can be planted.

Most optimal placement vegetables in three plots by year looks like this: plot A - celery, spinach, potatoes, leeks, corn, plot B - legumes, fennel, onions, plot C - cabbage, perennials.

Figure 1: Alternation of plants by year (given for four years - from top to bottom: first year at the top, etc.)

Some plants inhibit each other either unilaterally, or mutually, because of this their productivity and resistance to diseases and pests decreases. For example, none vegetable crop cannot stand the proximity of hyssop, wormwood - especially peas and beans, and fennel - especially tomatoes, spinach, bush beans. Among herbs, you should also not plant sage near onions, marigolds near beans, tansy near kale, and quinoa near potatoes.

Table 1 - Incorrect neighborhood

Vegetable	Favorable neighborhood	Unfavorable neighborhood
Cabbage	Celery, lettuce, dill	Tomato, beans, onion
Potato	Cabbage, onion	Cucumber, pumpkin, celery
Tomato	Pepper, celery, onion, parsley	Eggplant, kohlrabi, potatoes
cucumbers	Radish, lettuce, peas, cabbage	Herbs and potatoes
Carrot	Onions, tomatoes, peas and lettuce	Beetroot and dill
Beet	Beans, lettuce, onion	Dill, mustard, carrots

This method is simple and consists in the fact that crops are combined in one bed not by year, but in one year. Excellent result show planting tomatoes and peppers with early varieties onion, parsley and celery (A). Zucchini and squash will willingly make room for radishes (B), and cucumbers for dill and lettuce (C).

Since the ripening time of garden crops is different, they should be taken into account. For example, radishes have time to grow before zucchini and squash begin to crowd them out. Cabbage and celery planted together become stronger, plus celery repels cabbage weeds. It is impossible to grow crops of the same type next to each other, but with different ripening periods, for example, early and late cabbage. If plants in one bed require different quantities fertilizing, then at the borders, across the ridges, internal sides should be made.

Note: Green conveyor
At the end of July, sow radishes, carrots for bunched products, spinach and summer lettuce varieties in the space freed up after harvesting early peas.

Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, so after it all plants develop well.

Chinese cabbage can generally be sown very late - it ripens early and is not afraid of bad weather and light frosts.

Advice from gardeners, summer residents, gardeners

My system of crop rotation and plant proximity in the garden

IN old Russia agricultural technology was on high level, there were training schools and literature. By combining the old and the new, I developed my own agricultural technology, thanks to which I have high, stable yields every year.

Basics of my science:

• planning;
• crop rotation;
• planting dates and proximity in the beds.

Planning

I have only 4 acres of land. Under trees and vegetables. In winter I make up detailed plan plantings, counting how much of what to plant and where. And in the spring, just know, work!

Crop rotation

I have permanent beds, 90 cm wide. The row spacing is 40 cm. Slightly, about 5 cm, deepened. I don't dig up the rows. I apply fertilizers only to the beds. I water with a hose, and while the water is flowing, I do other things: loosen or mulch. After all, working on the land is hard work. I've been retired for four years now. And over the years, digging in the ground becomes more and more difficult.

My beds are numbered. And knowing their sizes, I calculate how many plants need to be planted, which ones, and estimate approximately how much harvest I will harvest. I have nowhere to store the excess.

I try to plant at the end of April, placing arcs and using covering material or film. I follow crop rotation.

I change it every 3 years, and there is a separate school for mustaches.

After harvesting, as soon as the bed is free, I sow green manure: mustard, alfalfa, rye, oats, legumes (mainly peas). To disinfect the soil, I dig in calendula and marigolds.

No.	1st year	It is not recommended to plant in the same place for:
1	Tomatoes, potatoes	3-4 years
2	Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin	2 years
3	Cabbage, radish, radish, turnip	4 years
4	Beets, carrots, spinach	1 year
5	Onion garlic	2 years
6	Salad	2-3 years
7	Peas, beans	Possible annually

Neighborhood of plants

Like people, plants have friends and enemies. I watched them for a long time and compiled a table (see Table 2).

	Tomato	cucumbers	Cabbage	Pepper	Potato	Radish	Carrot	Beet
Eggplant					+
Tomato	+		+			+	+	+
Cucumber		+	+			+		+
Cabbage		+	+		+			+
Pepper	+	+	+				+
Potato		+			+	+	+	+
Beet	+	+	+					+
Carrot	+	+				+	+
Salads
Garlic	+	+					+	+
beans

I really love all the flowers. I have them everywhere: near a small pond, along paths, under trees. And about 20 species medicinal herbs. I even found burdock and planted it! I would like to have everything on the site. Although dense plantings are more difficult to process, the labor expended more than pays off. My plants are doing well. They seem happy and doing great in my yard. Me too. Thanks to mother earth.

P.S. When drawing up a garden plan, you need to pay attention to which crops can be grown in what year after applying manure. Because, for example, root vegetables after fresh manure will be crooked, tasteless, ugly.

Alternation and juxtaposition of plants - opinions of professionals and gardeners

Alternation of crops

The annual change of planting location is called fruit rotation, alternation of crops. Systematic rotation of crops prevents soil fatigue, one-sided use of nutrients, the transfer of diseases and the spread of pests overwintering in the soil. Therefore, you should draw up a plan for vegetable planting in advance, before you have to start spring work.

In short, you cannot grow varieties of vegetables from the same family one after another in the same garden bed. This way you will be able to avoid being affected by diseases that may be lurking in the soil.

Also, you should not grow vegetables that actively consume nutrients in the same bed year after year. Otherwise, the soil will become depleted and there will be a lack of nutrients. According to their nutritional needs, vegetable varieties are divided into three groups.

Before planting a vegetable garden, it’s worth figuring out who is friends with whom in the garden. Why is this being done? It's simple: if you've been planting vegetables for more than a year, you've probably noticed that from the same seeds and with the same watering you get a different harvest every year. Sometimes your pets are eaten by pest bugs - and sometimes not, sometimes they grow wildly - and sometimes they modestly “huddle” near the ground... Vegetables, herbs and even flowers that grow nearby play an important role in the life of plants. And if you want to create smart vegetable garden no worries, lay out the beds correctly!

• Nightshades are best kept away from nightshades, and legumes are best kept away from legumes. If you plant plants from the same family together, they will infect each other with common diseases and pests.
• Ideal plant compatibility: each vegetable must suppress the diseases of its “companion,” repel pests, and sometimes attract insects necessary for both plants.
• It is desirable that neighbors have different vegetative characteristics. That is, today some grow rapidly (they draw all the moisture and nutrition from the ground), and in a month others... And of course, shade lovers will feel at ease near tall “comrades”, and sun lovers will feel at ease in the company of short vegetables.
• It’s worth planning the “geometry” of your garden based on the vegetable compatibility table.

You may notice some discrepancies in this table. For example, in the line “watermelons, melons” it is written that they are not compatible with cucumbers. But in the line “cucumbers” there is not a word about melons. It's not a mistake. The fact is that melons are really not compatible with cucumbers - melons themselves do not interfere with the growth and fruiting of cucumbers.

Sharing sunlight

In this case, ideal pairs can be called:

• tomatoes and carrots (the first like to grow upward, the second - the shade);
• cabbage and salad;
• corn and cucumbers (the creeping “guys” will still have something to roam about);
• beans and sunflowers.

In addition, pumpkin loves to grow in the shade - but you can’t plant it near tomatoes, as it can entwine them and simply drown them out (and it will be difficult for you to choose ripe tomatoes by pushing apart the prickly leaves). Pumpkins can be planted near sunflowers, but in this case, watch to see if the pumpkins will get stuck on the rising stems - they will fill up, become heavy and simply break the stems supporting them.

So as not to be “pushed” by the roots

It is important that neighboring “companions” have different root locations. This way all vegetables will be equally “fed” and “watered”. Moreover: in some cases, one “neighbor” will feed the second. How? For example, on the roots leguminous plants Nitrogen accumulates, but they do not consume it completely - part of it goes to the “companions”.

The following are considered good pairs in this regard:

• onions and carrots (the first pulls phosphorus and potassium from the ground, and the second - nitrogen, so that both crops do not “eat” each other),
• sunflower and beans (we have already written about them above).

By the way, based on this logic, “heredity” tables are created, which indicate which crop can be planted after which. After all, it’s one thing to plant, say, nitrogen-loving plants in the same place for a couple of years in a row, and another thing to plant a nitrogen-loving one one year, and a phosphorus-loving one the second. With such planting, the soil will not be “squeezed out”, and all plants will receive equal amounts of fertilizer, even if you do not feed them anything additional.

We are sick, but not together

Potatoes are considered the most popular vegetable in our gardens. Many housewives alternate their beds with rows of beans, corn or onions, doing this because everyone does it... Meanwhile, such planting has a scientific basis. The fact is that these vegetables interfere with the proliferation of spores fungal disease late blight, which potatoes are so afraid of.

But it is better to move the beds with cucumbers, pumpkins and sunflowers away from the potato rows. These plants may not suffer from late blight, but they can tolerate it.

It is curious that the same cucumbers (as well as squash and zucchini) are afraid powdery mildew. And if you “hide” a bed with them among the potatoes, even during an “epidemic” the cucumbers will not become infected on other vegetables.

Keep pests away from neighbors

• if you plant onions or garlic, as well as carrots or celery together (almost mixed), the carrots will repel onion fly, and onions - carrots (root);
• the same onions (including leeks) can successfully mask the aroma of beans from bugs;
• some gardeners claim that onions and garlic even drive Colorado potato beetles away from potatoes;
• and besides, it’s worth sowing catnip (catnip) near the potatoes - but don’t forget that this plant with a lemon smell is not called that for nothing, and if you get carried away and sow too much of it, all the cats in the area will be “yours”;
• finally, near the potatoes you can make a “front garden” with marigolds or nasturtiums - “Colorados” don’t like these flowers either;
• tomatoes can protect cabbage from cabbage worms, flea beetles and cutworms (mint has the same effect);
• in turn, the tomatoes themselves are well protected by basil (the hornworm does not like it);
• radishes are able to protect cucumbers from bugs;
• cucumbers and other vegetables can protect such spices like anise and fennel;
• Finally, it is better to sow calendula near a tomato bed - the hornworm does not like it.

More examples in this table:

Or vice versa, they will take the “fire” upon themselves

When can insects be beneficial to crops? No, we're not talking about bees pollinating flowers! The fact is that in nature there are many insects that are not averse to eating your garden pests. And to invite them to your garden beds, you can also use properly planted vegetables or flowers.

• Asters, marigolds, daisies, and finally, sunflowers are a real magnet for lacewings. These insects themselves are “herbivores”, as they feed only on pollen. But they generously leave behind larvae. And they won’t spare the aphids eating your cucumbers. In addition, they eagerly fly to these same flowers ladybugs, tahini flies, hoverflies.
• Cumin, anise, fennel, dill, as well as second-year celery, carrots, and parsley are also sown as an “invitation card” for beneficial insects.
• As for herbs, the following can be useful in this regard: catnip, mint, sage, thyme, oregano, marjoram, basil (the latter, by the way, repels mosquitoes, so you need to plant more of it if you like to potter in the garden in the late evenings).

Some gardeners may plant several vegetable bushes solely for one purpose: so that pests attack them, and not the vegetables growing nearby.

• Example: tobacco or eggplant bushes are scattered across a potato bed. They seem to be the most delicious to the Colorado potato beetles, so the beetles stop gnawing on the potatoes and destroy the “bait”. In addition, it is very convenient to poison this bunch (or shake it into a bucket, if you are for eco-gardening). No less successfully, you can plant black nightshade in potatoes (but do not forget that this plant is poisonous - do not let children play with it).
• Aphids love nasturtium, so it is advisable to “stick” it in the cucumber bed.
• Cabbage butterflies are more likely to lay eggs not in cabbage, but in mustard.

Well, we've sorted out the garden crops. How to shape the site as a whole? What is the best way to plant bushes, fruit and other trees? What plants can harm your harvest? An experienced landscape designer will tell you about all this. There are a lot of tips in this video, from shaping your beds to whether to cut down some trees.

We talked about what it is and what, in fact, these plantings are eaten with. We found out that growing several crops in one garden bed is modern, aesthetically pleasing, useful and beneficial to everyone.

It remains to decide on one very important thing in the matter joint plantings question: what can I plant with what? It is known that some crops get along well in one garden bed, while others, on the contrary, oppress each other. Such mutual influence is called the beautiful term allelopathy. In order not to make a mistake and not be disappointed in mixed plantings, even when planning the placement of crops, it is necessary to take into account their compatibility. Our plant compatibility table will help you...

Plant compatibility table for mixed plantings

Main crop	The best accompanying crops	What does the neighborhood provide?
Watermelon and melon	Peas, corn, sunflowers, radishes, beets.	Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, and corn and sunflowers create natural shading.
Eggplant	Bush beans, onions, lettuce, savory, spinach, tarragon.	Such companion plants improve the composition of the soil and help eggplants grow. Beans repel the Colorado potato beetle.
Peas	Eggplant, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumber, radish, salads, tomato.	Corn can provide natural support for climbing peas.
Strawberry (strawberry)	Cabbage, onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, cumin, garlic.	Phytoncides of onions and garlic repel pests. Other neighbors have a beneficial effect on the soil and growth of strawberries.
Zucchini	Corn, mint, nasturtium, radishes, beans.	Mint, radishes and legumes accelerate the growth of zucchini.
Cabbage	White clover, hyssop, potatoes, bush beans, leeks, chard, mint, nasturtium, borage, cucumber, wormwood, tomato, rosemary, lettuce, beets, celery, dill, chicory, thyme, sage, spinach.	Celery and lettuce protect against flea beetles. Aromatic and spicy herbs repel cabbage butterflies, and cabbage cutworm caterpillars do not like leeks. Dill improves taste and helps in the fight against cabbage aphids and caterpillars. Borage repels snails. White clover growing under cabbage attracts predatory spiders and insects that eat the pest caterpillars.
Potato	Marigolds, beans, cabbage, kohlrabi, coriander, catnip, corn, bush beans, nasturtium, radishes, salads, horseradish, cauliflower, spinach.	Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle, and horseradish provides protection against the potato bug.
Onion	Strawberries, cabbage, potatoes, watercress, carrots, cucumber, radishes, chamomile, lettuce, beets, thyme, spinach.	Carrots help repel the onion fly, and thanks to their proximity to cucumbers or spinach, onions grow larger.
Carrot	Peas, onions, radishes, rosemary, tomato, beans, garlic, sage.	Onions help repel carrot flies.
cucumbers	Pharmaceutical chamomile, marigolds, beans, peas, cabbage, corn, onions, borage, sunflower, radish, lettuce, beets, celery, dill, beans, fennel, garlic, spinach.	Radish protects against leaf beetle and spider mite. Neighborhood with other crops improves the taste of cucumber. Legumes have a beneficial effect on the soil.
Bell pepper	Basil, marigolds, geranium, coriander, catnip, onion, marjoram, carrots, nasturtium, petunia.	Companion plants increase the yield of sweet peppers. Basil improves the taste of the fruit.
Tomatoes	Basil, marigolds, calendula, cabbage, corn, bush beans, lemon balm, onions, carrots, mint, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, celery, savory, garlic, sage, spinach.	Accompanying plants improve the quality of fruits, extend shelf life, and repel pests. Spinach has a positive effect on the growth of the root system.
Radish	Peas, onions, carrots, cucumber, pumpkin, beans.	Peas stimulate the growth of radishes, and proximity to beans improves their taste.
Celery	Peas, cabbage, onions, leeks, tomatoes, beans.
Pumpkin	Peas, corn, mint, nasturtium, sunflower, radish, beans.
Beet	Cabbage, kohlrabi, catnip, radish, radish, salads.	Companion plants create favorable conditions for the growth of root crops.
Garlic	Strawberries, carrots, cucumber, tomato, beets.	Associated plants heal the soil.

The crop compatibility table can be used to plan both mixed and traditional plantings. It’s just that in the second case, “friendly” plants are placed not in one bed, but in neighboring ones.

This list is, of course, far from exhaustive. For example, there are “sweet couples” - combinations of two cultures that are the most in the best possible way influence each other. What is called “ze best”. For example…

Watermelon and peas
Beans and rosemary
Grapes and mustard
Melon and radish,
Parsnips and peas
Radishes and bush beans,
Turnips and peas
Lettuce and radishes
Celery and cabbage
Soybeans and corn,
Asparagus and parsley
Pumpkin and corn.

And there are also plants that get along with any neighbor without any problems and even help the one growing nearby in every possible way. These are spicy and aromatic herbs such as oregano, mint, lemon balm, thyme and sage, as well as parsley, cilantro, lettuce, garlic, radishes, spinach and tarragon.

We wish you success and great harvests!