It is very common to see two people wasting precious time wallpapering the same room. One of them, as a rule, coats the strip with glue and hands it to his partner, who stands idle on the scaffold all this time. Then they change places. While the second one adjusts the strip in place, the first one observes the process and gives “valuable” advice. Then they argue and the pasting is postponed to another day.

However, all wallpaper work can be done by one person, without a partner. Moreover, labor productivity increases significantly. You just need to master a few techniques and abandon cliches, many of which date back hundreds of years.

List of required tools

To work productively with wallpaper, you need to replenish your arsenal of tools. Here full list what is needed for this:

1. Light stepladder.
2. Clean plastic bucket for glue.
3. Ditch for glue.
4. Paint roller with medium density fur, 250 mm wide.
5. A flat brush with a width of at least 50 mm.
6. Wallpaper line.
7. Wallpaper knife and a set of spare blades for it at the rate of 1 package per room.
8. Scissors.
9. Tape measure and pencil.
10. Water or laser two-plane self-aligning level.
11. Wallpaper brush (if the selected wallpaper requires careful handling when smoothing).
12. Rubber wallpaper roller (wide, for smoothing panels).
13. Rubber roller for joints (suitable for most types of wallpaper).
14. Plastic Taper Ribbed Joint Bead (Suitable for heavy wallpaper, having special instructions from the manufacturer).
15. Plastic wallpaper spatula (for smooth wallpaper it can be used instead of a rubber roller, and when working with other wallpaper it is convenient to press the wallpaper in the corners).
16. Cardboard or thick construction film wider than the width of the wallpaper.
17. A sponge and a piece of gauze to remove excess glue.
18. Pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

A few words about surface preparation

Not so long ago, the attitude towards wallpaper could be characterized by the phrase: “Seal it up so that it is clean and the scary walls are not visible!” In the modern understanding, the place of wallpaper in the interior is much wider. Therefore, there must be a reliable, smooth and clean surface under the wallpaper. Satisfies these requirements high quality plaster, putty in several layers with intermediate sanding and priming of each layer. Such a surface does not require large-scale repair work in the future and can withstand repeated wallpapering during subsequent cosmetic repairs.

There are wallpapers that can be removed without leaving any residue. These, for example, include all types of non-woven wallpaper. All types of vinyl wallpaper (this is the most common class on the market decorative coatings for walls) have a detachable backing that remains on the wall and is a ready-made base for gluing other wallpapers. Therefore, the requirement for high strength of plaster and putty layers is relevant. The base should not fall off along with the wallpaper when it is subsequently removed.

You can check the quality of the surface by scratching the wall crosswise in an inconspicuous place with a hard, sharp object. If no chips form in the crosshairs, then the surface is durable.

Pattern matching, marking and storage of strips

The bulk of wallpaper is produced with a pattern. The larger it is, the greater its step (rapport), the more waste there will be during operation. First technological operation when working with wallpaper - matching the pattern, marking and storing strips.

Two rolls are rolled out on a clean floor. The one on the left in the photo is already cut to length according to required height with a margin of at least 10 cm from this size. The second roll is combined with the design on the first page and pencil marks are placed along its edges. You can cut these places with scissors.

In order not to bother with a square and a ruler, it is enough to align the strip of wallpaper along the edges in the place where the cut was made, and press down the bend with your hands.

Then you need to cut off the rest of the wallpaper roll from the canvas with scissors. There is no need to worry about the uneven edge. After all, the reserve in length is intended so that after gluing the strip to the wall, you can cut off the excess in place with high accuracy already under the line.

In the meantime, the previous marking strip will no longer be needed. On its reverse side you need to mark with an arrow the direction where the top will be, number it and roll the base outwards. The roll must be placed vertically against the wall on which it will be glued in the future.

The next canvas is marked and stored in the order indicated above. With this method of preparing and storing cuts ready for gluing, you can straighten the wallpaper without taking up space in the room.

Usually the cut strips are spread on top of each other front side down, and glue is applied to top page in a stack. In this case, the edges of the lower cuts are damaged, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

Marking. Let's say plumb - no

The next stage of work is marking the walls in accordance with the plan. Almost all wallpapering guides advise using a plumb line for this. Stone Age! There is not a single professional who would use this device. For marking vertical and horizontal lines Either a water level or a laser level is used. Mark the position of the first stripes from the corners (vertical lines), the position of the border on the wall or the place of transition from one wallpaper to another (horizontal level).

When drawing a line with a pencil, you do not need to draw it with force. It is enough just to outline it with a dotted line. If the line is left solid, then under transparent non-woven wallpaper it will be visible even through two layers of paint, and other wallpaper can be stained with graphite dust. It is important to make a slight tolerance on the width. Let's say the width of the wallpaper is 53 cm. Then the vertical line needs to be drawn back at least 54 cm from the corner, placing the edge parallel to the marking line, there is less chance of deviating from it than running the wallpaper straight along it.

Applying glue, impregnation and gluing the strip

After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you can begin to directly paste the room. By then all the stripes will be straightened. The glue must be diluted before starting work, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Here we can note one rule common to all: the water must be clean and cold, and the glue must be poured into the water in a thin stream with continuous stirring. You cannot dilute two packs of glue at once. It thickens quickly and lumps will begin to form. The type of glue must match the type of wallpaper.

The strip needs to be rolled out on cardboard or film. Pour some of the glue into a ditch, dip a roller in it and apply to the wallpaper. It is important to coat the edges well. Glue with an indicator is ideal for this. Nothing bad will happen if the roller goes beyond the edge of the canvas. Fresh glue can be easily removed with a damp sponge or gauze. The layer of glue applied should be uniform, but not thick.

Immediately after applying the glue, the wallpaper should be folded as shown in the photo and left to soak for three to five minutes. If the next strip of wallpaper after this runs along a flat wall without obstacles, then you can coat the next section and also fold it. But you should not leave more than three strips for impregnation - they will begin to stick together.

The glue-soaked strip needs to be unrolled by climbing onto the ladder. Find the top using the mark and attach it to the wall, making an overlap on the ceiling (the amount of overlap should be greater than the total slope of the floors, which in some houses can reach 10 cm).

First, the upper half of the panel is glued and adjusted to the pattern. Then you need to go down the stairs and unfold the second half of the wallpaper, fit it end to end and begin to smooth it with a wide rubber roller (a wallpaper spatula or a wallpaper brush, depending on the type of wallpaper), starting from the middle and top, ending with the edges and bottom, squeezing all the air out.

Immediately after this, roll the joint with a narrow rubber roller. The seams should not be pressed too hard or rubbed with a rag. Excess glue should be blotted with a sponge, which should be washed immediately in running water.

The less attention is paid to the seams, the less they will stand out after drying.

Sockets and switches - to remove or not to remove

The answer is clear - shoot! There are several reasons. First, electrical fixtures are sometimes replaced, and a different model of outlet or switch may have different dimensions. It’s good if they’re big, but what if they’re not? Secondly, a rosette installed on top of the wallpaper looks much better than one cut along the contour.

Many manuals advise cutting the wallpaper crosswise at the location where the box is installed, and bending the resulting sectors inward and gluing them. Not the best in terms of fire safety option. It is better to immediately cut out the middle of the box.

This must be done while the wallpaper is damp, since they tend to stretch as they dry and then it is difficult to find the place where mounting box. Naturally, when dismantling electrical fittings, you need to de-energize the room, and insulate the exposed wires and put them inside the box.

How to properly trim excess

One of the main tools in wallpaper making is a flexible ruler. It is designed simply: a strip of flexible material is sealed in a plastic case 60 cm long. of stainless steel. The ruler is able to press tightly even on uneven surfaces, accurately repeating all their curves. The photo shows how it should be used.

It is important to remember that after each cut you need to break off the tip of the blade of the wallpaper knife so that it is always sharp. The savings here are completely unjustified. After the excess has been removed, you need to wipe the surface with a damp sponge.

Despite the fact that the wallpaper is damp, the cut remains clean, without burrs or lint. It is impossible to do this kind of work accurately without a wallpaper ruler.

Heating radiators - ways to get around the sore spot

Any master, regardless of qualifications, really dislikes heating radiators. In terms of complexity and painstakingness, this warm place in the apartment presents the greatest difficulty when wallpapering. New buildings have batteries that can be easily removed and installed back. When dismantling the radiator, only wall mounts and outlets from the floor, to which it is connected via quick-release connections (the so-called American ones).

With this method of pasting the surface behind the radiator, little time and nerves are spent. Much more will be required to first remove and then replace the battery. Before unscrewing the “American” nuts, you need to turn off the valves on the radiator supply and return and drain the water, having first reduced the pressure by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.

If it is not possible to remove the radiator, then it is enough to place strips of wallpaper around its perimeter to a depth of about 15 cm on each side. It is recommended to additionally coat the surface of the wall behind the battery with glue, especially if it is working.

To quickly and accurately complete wallpaper work without an assistant, you should use a few useful tips:

1. Use only a stepladder. “Goats” and scaffolding are bulky and can easily damage walls.
2. When working with non-woven wallpaper or fiberglass, there is no need to pre-cut and adjust the stripes according to the pattern. You can paste from a roll, since the glue for these types of wallpaper is applied to the wall.
3. To make the edge of the wallpaper running along the slopes neat, you need to make a small overlap (1-2 cm), wait until the wallpaper dries, and then trim off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife.
4. You should not join the wallpaper strictly in the corners. It is better to make a transition from one plane to another by an amount greater than the deviation of the wall from the vertical, and paste the next sheet of wallpaper level, overlapping the previous strip, cut both sheets under the ruler, and remove the excess.
5. All types flooring, except for parquet and tiles, are laid after wallpapering.
6. If parquet is laid on the floor, then before wallpapering it needs to be covered with two or three layers of thick cardboard. Parquet floors cannot be covered with film!
7. Hands must be clean. After each pasted panel, wipe them with damp gauze, which you rinse periodically.

Knowing how to hang wallpaper with one person, you can avoid conflicts and complete the entire amount of work in a short time.

Most often, it is two people who are engaged in wallpapering a room. One stands on a raised platform (stepladder, stool) and waits for the second to cut the required strip and spread it with glue.

Then the wallpaper is applied to the wall and combined with the previous strip. Next, one smoothes it out, removes unevenness, and the other watches the process.

And everything would be fine, but in most cases such work is accompanied by disputes and often ends in a quarrel. Moreover, all stages of the process can be performed alone.

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• ladder;
• large container for diluting glue;
• cuvette for prepared glue;
• wallpaper ruler, tape measure, pencil, level;
• brush from 50 mm wide;
• paint roller (width 250 mm);
• rubber roller for smoothing wallpaper;
• rubber roller for smoothing joints;
• sponge, napkin for cleaning surfaces from excess glue;
• pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

You will also need material to cover the floor. This can be cardboard or wide film. If the wallpaper is too heavy, you will need a cone-shaped roller with ribs. They smooth out the joints. When wallpaper requires particularly careful handling, the roller is replaced with a special wallpaper brush. You can purchase a plastic wallpaper spatula. It is used to form geometrically correct angles. If the wallpaper has a nasty texture, you can smooth it out with this spatula, replacing a regular roller.

How to prepare the surface?

On preparatory stage it is necessary to carry out a certain set of works with the surface. No matter how fashionable and attractive the wallpaper is, general form won't be perfect until finishing materials there is an uneven surface, replete with potholes and protrusions. That's why . Moreover, each layer requires a good primer. Such walls will last for many years, the wallpaper on them can be changed many times.

First, roll out 2 rolls of wallpaper. You need to make sure the floor is clean. From the first roll, measure a strip along the height of the ceiling, adding 10 cm. This strip is laid out on the floor. The second one is combined with it so that the pattern of one stripe continues on the second fragment. Marks are made on the canvas as shown in photo 1.

Photo 2 shows how to make marks using scissors. The alignment of the strip in the area where there is a cut is shown in photo 3. The bend is smoothed out by hand.

Next, cut off a strip of wallpaper using scissors. How to do this is shown in photo 4. The edge will be a little uneven. There is nothing wrong with this, because an allowance of 10 cm is left. It allows for more accurate and even cutting on the spot.

The strip that was previously used for marking must be put aside, but first you need to make a mark indicating top part. And put a number on it. How this can be done is shown in photo 5. Then the strip is folded as shown in photo 6.

It is more convenient to place the prepared strips near the wall for which they are intended. The vertical position will help save space. See photo 7.

Do the same with the next canvas. See photos 8, 9. This method preparing the wallpaper allows you to subsequently correctly join the pattern, quickly straighten the canvases, and save space and time.

In the standard preparation method, strips cut to size are laid flat on top of each other. Next, the upper strip is smeared with glue, while the edges of the lower ones get damaged, get dirty, and then the overall picture deteriorates.

How can you mark the surface of the walls?

Marking the walls is an important stage. Usually the instructions say that you need to use a plumb line. But today the use of a plumb line is becoming a thing of the past. Use it. In this case, both a water level and a laser level are taken. Using this tool, mark where the first stripe from the corner should go. To do this, draw vertical lines. The level determines the direction of the position of the curb, which is attached horizontally, and coordinates the joining zones.

In photo 10 you can see how to use a water level. You need to pay attention to where the bubble should be. Experts recommend that when applying markings with a pencil, make light strokes without pressing on it. A clear bright line will appear through non-woven wallpaper and ruin appearance. Even if you take a different type of wallpaper, it can also become dirty with graphite particles.

It is necessary to leave a width tolerance. If after measurements it turns out that the strip of wallpaper is 53 cm wide, you need to step back from the corner by 54 cm. In this case, the mark will be constantly visible. This way, the person who is pasting the wallpaper will be able to constantly see the landmark and will not allow any failures or distortions.

How to apply glue and stick canvases?

If the preparation was successful, you need to begin the pasting process. While work was being done on the last stripes, the first ones were already well straightened out. The glue is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Regardless of the type of glue, prepare a clean cold water. The glue should be poured little by little, in a small stream. In this case, the composition must be constantly stirred.

There is no need to rush and pour 2 packs of glue into the bucket at once. The mixture will gradually begin to thicken, and the resulting lumps will interfere with your work. When choosing glue, you need to take into account the characteristics of the wallpaper. Each variety needs its own type of glue. Wide cardboard or prepared film is spread on the floor. Wallpaper is laid on it, base side up. For more convenient use pour a small amount of glue into a ditch, into which the roller is then dipped. The most common application method is shown in photo 11.

When applying glue Special attention given to the edge part. Today they produce glue with an indicator. After breeding, it has a certain color shade, allowing you to know exactly where the glue has already been applied and where it has not yet been applied. If glue gets on the surface under the wallpaper, there is no need to panic. It can be easily removed later. When working, you need to make sure that the layer of glue is not too thick, and that the application itself is even.

When the glue is applied, the wallpaper is folded in half. You can see how to do this correctly in photo 12. The wallpaper should remain in this position for at least 3 minutes. This time is enough for the glue to be absorbed. You can increase the time to 5 minutes when the wallpaper is too thick. If the next section of the wall is smooth, without protrusions and various parts, you can immediately prepare the 2nd strip. But you shouldn’t get carried away with this. The number of prepared strips should not be more than 3. Otherwise they will begin to dry out and stick together.

When the strip is ready, it is unrolled, gradually ascending the stepladder. You need to hold the strip by the part on which there is a mark indicating that this is the top. When applying wallpaper to the wall, you need to take into account that you need to make an overlap on top. Its size is individual, depending on the characteristics of the room.

In photo 13 you can see where the pasting and fitting begin. First they work with the upper part. When everything is ready there, they come down from the stepladder and straighten it, applying the lower part. When everything is joined, you can start working with a smoothing roller, spatula or brush. Movements come from the top, from the middle. Then they go down. How to squeeze out the air can be seen in photo 14.

When the wallpaper is smoothed and the air has been removed, you need to roll the joints with a special rubber roller. However, seams do not like too active exposure. Therefore, you should not rub them or put pressure on this area. When excess glue appears, it is carefully removed with a sponge or napkin, and they are subsequently rinsed in water.

If you do not put unnecessary pressure on the seams, they will look almost perfect after drying.

How to cover areas with sockets and switches?

All sockets, switches, and other parts that violate the geometry of the walls must be removed before wallpapering. Firstly, this will allow you to later easily change them to smaller models. Secondly, the appearance of the switch installed on top of the wallpaper is more aesthetic and modern.

Some people advise cutting the part of the wallpaper that remains under the socket or switch crosswise and then bending the paper to the sides. This is unsafe in case of fire. It is better to make a cutout that matches the shape of the device, only smaller. This can be seen in photos 16, 17.

The slots are made immediately after gluing the corresponding strip. Firstly, you can later make a mistake with the place. Secondly, after drying the wallpaper will stretch, so making cuts will be more difficult. Before removing sockets and switches, you must turn off the current, and carefully insulate all contacts and put them inside the installation box.

How to trim off excess?

Here you will need a flexible ruler plastic tool 60 cm long, a stainless steel strip is built into its body. It is flexible, so the ruler can be pressed tightly even against uneven surface. What such a tool looks like and how to use it can be seen in photo 18.

The peculiarity of using a wallpaper knife is that after each cut you need to break off a small fragment of its blade. In this case, it will always maintain good cutting abilities. When the excess is cut off, the surface is wiped. Photo 19 shows exactly this moment.

From photo 19 you can see that despite the wet state of the wallpaper, the cut surface is smooth and does not have any lint or fibers. Such accuracy can only be achieved through the use of a flexible ruler.

How to cover the area where heating radiators are installed?

The installation location of heating radiators is considered the most difficult for the wallpapering process. To complete all the work efficiently, you will have to make every effort. In new buildings there are fewer problems; there you can find radiators that can be dismantled and, after pasting, installed in their original place. Photo 20 shows how radiators are dismantled. After its removal, wall fasteners and floor outlets equipped with American-type connections remain.

In this case, the pasting will not be big problems. However, the process of removing the battery and then installing it will take time. Before disconnecting, you need to turn off the water supply, then the return line, and drain everything that is inside the radiator. At the same time, we must not forget about pressure. It is reduced by unscrewing the shut-off screw located on the drain valve.

If the situation is such that it is impossible to remove the radiator, you will have to insert strips about 15 cm under it. If the battery is working, you need to additionally coat the surface under it with glue.

Video of wallpapering alone

1. A stepladder is better than scaffolding and “goats”, which often damage the surface of the walls.
2. or with fiberglass, glue must be applied directly to the wall. Therefore, there is no need to cut the wallpaper into separate strips in advance.
3. A small allowance (1 - 2 cm) on the slopes will allow you to get a neat edge. You just need to wait until the wallpaper is dry, and then trim off the excess evenly.
4. Joining the panels at the corners is impractical. Most often, a transition is made from one wall to another, leaving a large allowance equal to the vertical deviation of the wall. The second canvas is glued onto the first one with an overlap, guided by the level indication. Then both sheets are cut through and the excess is removed.
5. It is better to lay the flooring after pasting the walls. The exception is tile and parquet.
6. The parquet is covered with cardboard before pasting. You cannot put film on cardboard.
7. While working, you need to keep your hands clean. They are periodically wiped with a napkin, which is rinsed thoroughly from time to time.

Hanging wallpaper indoors is a very responsible and time-consuming undertaking, which very often requires the involvement of assistants, since it can be very difficult to cope with the tasks on your own. But if you take into account the following recommendations, you will be able to paste on high level even on your own.

In this article we will look at how to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands quickly and efficiently, and what you need for this.

To carry out high-quality wallpapering in a room, you need to prepare the following tools for wallpaper work, which will help you do all the work yourself at a high level:

• lightweight and at the same time practical stepladder;
• a clean plastic bucket for diluting glue;
• a construction ditch in which the glue will be located;
• paint roller for spreading glue;
• wallpaper ruler for measurements, which also serves for cutting fabrics;
• tape measure, pencil;
• a wallpaper brush or plastic spatula, which will help smooth out all the unevenness and bulges that arise when wallpapering;
• rubber roller for joints;
• sponge or gauze rag to collect excess glue and thereby create a clean finished surface.

This list is the necessary minimum, without which it is simply impossible to do. All of the listed tools for wallpapering can be purchased at any hardware store.

Preparatory stage

Answer the question: “How to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands?” in a nutshell, it’s unlikely that anyone will succeed. The gluing process is distinguished by certain actions, which must be treated with the utmost care and precision in order to ensure the proper outcome of the work.

Rules for choosing wallpaper for gluing

The selection of wallpaper is, perhaps, the very first stage. The appearance of the room after renovation, as well as the gluing process itself, largely depends on it. After all, gluing thin, low-quality canvases will be much more difficult.

It is important to choose the most suitable option wallpaper according to the design, color scheme, like, calculating with the help of the required number of rolls to completely cover the room.

Assortment of wallpapers at this moment quite large, so you need to take the choice with maximum responsibility, choosing for yourself exactly the option that suits you best.

Preparing the wall surface

The quality of finishing largely depends on how correctly it is carried out.

First, remove the old wallpaper using hot water, rags or brushes. Sometimes ordinary water is not enough, and the old coating can be easily removed with your own hands only using a soap solution.

After removing the old coating from the walls, all unevenness must be removed by applying a thin layer of putty. If this step is ignored, after wallpapering all sorts of defects can spoil the appearance.

Gluing technology

It is better to start this stage by preparing the glue, since you will have to wait some time for it to thicken. Wallpaper glue must be diluted in accordance with the existing instructions, which spell out all the details.

If glue mixture will be diluted incorrectly, wallpapering may be complicated by the appearance of extremely undesirable problems in the form of lumps or too liquid consistency.

While the glue thickens, you can move on to preparing the wallpaper, namely selecting a pattern and cutting strips to the required length.

After the materials have been prepared, you can begin gluing the surface.

Where to start gluing

Many people start wallpapering the room from the window the old-fashioned way. This is explained by the fact that the seams of overlapping paper wallpaper are less noticeable with this type of pasting.

Since modern vinyl, non-woven and many other types of wallpaper are glued end-to-end, you can start pasting from anywhere. However, there are still some rules and techniques that will help you find answers to the question of how to glue wallpaper in various unusual cases:

1. When gluing vertically, it is best to start from the door or window slope, since it is very important here to glue the first strip strictly perpendicularly. In this case, it is better to additionally use a level or plumb line, which is quite possible to do with your own hands.
2. It is recommended to start pasting from the corner only if the corners of the room are perfectly even.
3. If you are covering a room with a large number of windows, openings, niches or projections, you need to start from the largest landmark.
4. You can also paste a room from several lines. This technique is justified in the case of decorating a room with wallpaper large windows or the door. The wallpaper joint will be less noticeable if it is made above them.

How to glue correctly

During the gluing process, the wallpaper strips must be carefully applied to the wall and gradually glued from the center to the edges, while pulling diagonally. Next, use a dry cloth or paint roller we expel all the air and excess glue from under the canvases.

Wallpaper can be glued overlapping or end-to-end. The first option is acceptable for thin paper sheets, but it’s better to butt.

Heating radiators are a problematic but important place when wallpapering

Every person who has at least once had to paper a room with their own hands has encountered the problem of finishing behind the radiator. This warmest and most comfortable place in the room creates certain inconveniences during the pasting process, so special attention and a competent approach are paid to it.

If we're talking about In new buildings, where, as a rule, removable radiators and heating radiators are located, the question of “how to hang wallpaper behind them” is solved very simply: first, the battery is dismantled (and it is done very easily and quickly), then the wallpaper is glued, and after it dries The radiators are reinstalled. But what if it is not possible to remove the battery?

To properly paste the wall behind the heating radiator, it is recommended to cut the wallpaper into narrow strips and place it behind the radiator. In this case, the surface of the wall behind it must be additionally coated with glue.

In what cases is it necessary to glue wallpaper horizontally?

You can save a lot of time and effort when gluing the wall behind the battery by using horizontal gluing. Also, this wallpapering technology can be used in the case of combining several types of canvases, that is, if you decide to glue the wallpaper horizontally to divide the room into two horizontal halves, or if you want to emphasize some details in the design.

In any case, wallpapering must be done with high quality, avoiding the occurrence of air bubbles, scuffs and other damage and defects.

If you glue the wallpaper in such a way that it is perfectly level horizontal stripe the junction of two different canvases is not possible, you can resort to next secret: stick on border tape, which will hide the unevenness of the connection.

Important rules for wallpapering

In order for the wallpapering of walls to be done with really high quality, it is worth paying attention to following rules wallpapering:

1. Wallpaper glue. It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to use the glue correctly, so read the instructions and rules for using the material in your work.
2. Room temperature. You cannot paste walls indoors at low temperatures, since the glue will not be able to provide the desired effect, and the wallpaper will freeze. Also, you should not paste over the walls and ceiling in a room with high temperatures, since in this case the completely opposite effect is ensured: drying out of the glue and the canvas itself.
3. Measurements. It will be unsightly if the canvas somewhere does not reach the right place, so it is recommended to accurately measure the walls or ceiling in advance in order to avoid inconvenience in the future. Secret correct measurements consists of cutting strips a few centimeters larger than required. In the future, this reserve can be trimmed or hidden with a plinth or baguette.
4. Selection of drawing. Many modern options Wallpaper needs a quality selection of patterns in order to create an attractive external effect with a precise pattern or design. If you don’t want to waste time on selection, you should choose wallpaper without a pattern. A significant advantage of such options is the fact that, if necessary, you can not completely re-glue the wallpaper, but just one or several strips.

WALL PREPARATION

CUTTING

First, check the wallpaper for identical manufacturing batch number, pattern and color tone. Now we can begin. If the wallpaper is without a pattern, the length of all stripes is the same, and they can be cut simply by unwinding from the roll. In the case of direct joining, all strips are identical and for cutting, the strip pattern is precisely aligned with each other. When cutting wallpaper with a pattern offset on each subsequent strip, the pattern is shifted by half of the repeating pattern; every other stripe is the same. It is important that the wallpaper unwinds from the roll in the same direction.

PREPARING GLUE

It is fundamentally considered that the glue must be thoroughly mixed and swell for a long time. The glue should be applied evenly to the strips. Allow them to soak in the glue for 2-4 minutes. This is necessary so that the wallpaper adheres flawlessly to the wall (for example, so that the joints do not separate when drying).

APPLYING GLUE TO WALLPAPER

If you are gluing regular paper wallpaper, then:

Cut the wallpaper sheets equal to the height of the wall plus 5-10 cm for subsequent trimming.

• Apply glue evenly to the back side of the canvas, glued side inward, edge to edge.
• Let the glue soak in for 5-10 minutes. (depending on the wallpaper manufacturer's recommendation).

If you glue vinyl wallpapers:

• Apply glue evenly to the back of the wallpaper and onto the wall.

If you are gluing non-woven wallpaper:

• Apply special glue to the wall with a brush and glue the wallpaper.

GLUING WALLPAPER

1. The wallpaper begins to stick from the window. Mark a vertical line on the wall, stick the first piece from the ceiling and straighten it along the marked line.
2. Smooth the fabric with a brush from top to bottom and from the center to the edges, removing trapped air.
3. Use a ruler and knife to cut off any excess wallpaper.
4. Glue the next sheet end-to-end with the first one.
5. Carefully remove excess glue with a clean sponge.
6. To ensure that the wallpaper sticks well, avoid high temperature indoors and drafts.

Angles

It is not recommended to bend a solid strip and glue it into a corner; it is also undesirable to join two solid strips in a corner; to avoid the appearance of the junction of two strips, it is recommended to glue a solid strip through a corner with an overlap of 3-5 cm on the adjacent wall.

Doors

When wallpapering, doors are usually approached from one side, and never from both. The strip covering the area of ​​the door is cut vertically to the upper edge of the door frame. Along the vertical edge, the strip is pressed against the wall, and the protrusion is cut off. The projection above the door frame is adjusted and the bottom is also trimmed.

Window niches

The strip aligned with a plumb line is applied to the side of the window so that the protrusion “around the corner” reaches the window frame (with an extra charge). Then the strip is cut at the height of the window sill and the upper edge of the window, so that the protrusion can be bent into the niche. Ledges on window frame and trimmed on the windowsill. After this, you can glue wallpaper over the upper edge of the window and under the window sill and continue in the same way on the other side of the window.

Radiators

It is recommended to wallpaper the wall no further than 10 - 20 cm behind the radiator. If the entire surface of the wall behind the radiator is covered with wallpaper, then it is better to cut the strip of wallpaper into strips about 10 cm wide, and press them with a narrow roller with a long handle from above, below and through the ribs of the radiator. But it’s still better to paint the wall behind the radiator with paint that matches the color of the wallpaper.

The edges

For clean gluing of edges near the ceiling and around the baseboard, a special ruler for cutting edges has proven itself best. A specially designed triangular profile allows you to precisely fit and evenly trim the edge contour. In addition, the ceiling and baseboard are not stained with glue and the knife blade remains sharp for a long time.

Ceiling

After marking the first strip, the wallpaper on the ceiling is glued “from the light,” that is, from the window into the room. When gluing the ceiling, it is best to work together: while one applies and presses the strip of wallpaper, the other holds the remaining, still rolled piece of the strip at the top with a broom or mop.

Curbs

There are two ways to glue borders. If the wallpaper is smooth, then the border is glued on top of the wallpaper with a preliminary marking of its location. In this case, the use of special border glue is justified. The border just needs to be moistened with water reverse side and leave to soak for 5 minutes, then apply border glue and glue immediately. In the case of embossed wallpaper, it is best to first glue the border, and then precisely fit the wallpaper strips at the top and bottom to it. For a clean fit, it is recommended to use a special ruler to trim the edges. In this case, it also makes sense to use special border glue.

WALLPAPERING AROUND AN OUTLET OR SWITCH

In this article, you will learn how to glue wallpaper on a wall with your own hands. Before wallpapering, you need to thoroughly clean the room. The quality of future walls depends on the cleanliness of the room;
The outer parts of the switch, sockets (telephone wires, cables) must be removed in advance;
Dissolve the glue.

• Measure from the corner a distance equal to the width of the wallpaper minus 1.5 cm and place a dot here. Mark where the seams will go and move them slightly if necessary.

• Using a level and ruler, draw a vertical line through this point. On the wall where the pattern of the wall wallpaper should be combined with the wallpaper on the ceiling, draw a vertical line from the first seam of the wallpaper pasted on the ceiling.
• Sticking paper wallpaper read

• Trim and prepare the first piece of wallpaper. First, straighten the top of the accordion-folded wallpaper. Paste the wallpaper along a vertical line so that the panel has an allowance of about 5 cm on the ceiling. Make sure that the pattern is not cut off at the ceiling line.

• Make a cut top corner wallpaper so that the wallpaper in the corner does not wrinkle. Use your palms to move the wallpaper so that it is in place and its edge is in a vertical line. Smooth out the wallpaper with a smoothing brush.

• Straighten the bottom of the wallpaper and use your palms to move the wallpaper so that its edge runs along a vertical line. Smooth out the wallpaper with a smoothing brush. Check carefully to see if there are any bubbles left.

• Use a sharp wallpaper knife with replaceable blades to cut off the excess. If the ceiling is already covered, bend back the edge of the wallpaper with a wide spatula, and then cut off the bent part with scissors so as not to damage the wallpaper pasted on the ceiling. Wash off all the glue from the surface of the wallpaper.

• Hang the next panels of wallpaper edge-to-edge so that the pattern matches. Leave the wallpaper hanging like this for about half an hour, and then lightly roll the seams with a roller. On embossed or textile fabrics, lightly tap the seams with a smoothing brush.

• Turn off the power and hang wallpaper over outlets and switches. Make small diagonal cuts to expose the rosette. Along the edges electrical panel cut the wallpaper with a knife with interchangeable blades.

1. Trim and prepare a whole strip of wallpaper. While the wallpaper is soaking in glue, measure the distance from the edge of the previous pasted panel to the corner at the top, middle and bottom of the wall. Add 1.5 cm to the largest measured value.

1. Align the edges of the folded wallpaper. Measure from the edge at two points a distance equal to the value obtained in step 1. Place a ruler at these two points and cut the wallpaper with a sharp wallpaper knife.

1. Place the wallpaper on the wall so that the pattern matches the pattern on the previously hung wallpaper. There should be an allowance of approximately 5 cm on the ceiling. Use your palms to carefully butt the edges of the wallpaper panels end to end. The wallpaper panel should slightly extend onto the unpainted wall.

1. Make small narrow cuts in the corners at the top and bottom of the panel so that you can glue the wallpaper in the corner without wrinkles appearing on it. Smooth out the wallpaper with a brush, and then trim off any excess near the ceiling and baseboard.

1. On an unpasted wall, measure from the corner and mark with a dot a distance equal to the width of the remaining strip of wallpaper plus 1.5 cm. Draw a vertical line from the ceiling to the floor in this place. Using the same method, cut a new strip of wallpaper this width, starting at the leading edge of the new piece, so that the patterns meet at the corner.

1. Place the new cut strip on the wall with the cut edge in the corner and the uncut edge along the vertical line. Press the panel against the wall and smooth it with a brush, and then cut off the excess at the ceiling and at the baseboard.

1. If you are gluing vinyl wallpaper, then bend the edge in the corner and apply vinyl glue along the seam. Press the overlapping panel evenly, wait half an hour, then roll the seams with a roller and wipe the area with a damp sponge.

Option. Projecting corners, as a rule, can be pasted over without cutting the wallpaper. If the corner is not vertical, follow the taping directions. internal corners, but not 1.5 cm, but 2.5 cm is added to the measured value obtained in step 1.