Ensuring comfort and quality of life in country house is an important point for any owner of such a building. One of the factors that make it possible to ensure a comfortable life is the convenience of drainage of used water and waste products. Correctly calculated at the design stage and subsequently correctly constructed sewerage system in a private house will be the key to long-term operation, which will not cause any problems. You can create such a design with your own hands if you approach the issue with maximum responsibility.

Primary requirements

To avoid any problems in the process of creating a sewer system in your own home, it is best to follow as much as possible this process all requirements and standards that are described in regulatory documentation- SNiP. In this case, everything will definitely function flawlessly for a long period of time.

In any building where a pipeline is laid and there is a water intake, a system must be installed that will remove wastewater. Drainage mechanisms must also be created at the sites. In general, such a network will not only provide a comfortable life, but will also not harm the environment, and will also significantly increase the time the building is used.

Typically, sewerage consists of the following systems:

• storm drain, which drains water;
• external;
• internal.

They must be laid in such a way that various building sanitary requirements for sewerage in your own home are met.

Among these requirements are:

• ensuring normal cleansing;
• no risk of flooding of the building;
• ensuring the required volume Wastewater;
• hermetically sealed accumulation and transportation of wastewater.

If we talk about the requirements for internal systems of this type, they must consist of the following elements:

• riser to which all pipes are attached;
• dividing pipes, which pumps wastewater in the direction of the riser;
• plumbing fixtures for drainage.

According to the standards, in the mechanism, part of which is located in the building, there must be enough space for the free transportation of liquid from the places where the drainage takes place to the pipes that carry it outside the building. When laying sewerage inside a building, pipes made of cast iron or some kind of polymer are used. At the outlet, the size of such a pipe should be 11 centimeters. Naturally, in this mechanism There must also be ventilation. Usually it is carried out through a riser. Above each element there is an exhaust area overlooking the roof.

If we talk about the project of external systems, then its creation is carried out taking into account the requirements prescribed in SNiP number 2.04.03-85.

That's why regulatory document The following points should be taken into account:

• Wells for maintenance and cleaning must be installed in the mechanism;
• to clean wastewater, you need an installation using biomethods;
• if we are talking about a gravity network, then polymer, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes are used;
• pipes that are located outside the boundaries of the building should be about fifteen centimeters in diameter and laid at a level of ten to twelve centimeters;
• if the building has few floors, then several houses can be combined into a single network;
• if it is impossible to arrange a gravity system, then it is better to opt for a pressure sewer system.

Another important point is the selection of design. This is really important when designing an autonomous sewer network.

There may be three options for septic tanks that are used:

• aeration tanks;
• storage septic tank;
• treatment plant

Now let's talk about them in a little more detail. Aerotanks are the latest solutions using several cleaning techniques. After using such a septic tank, the liquid is purified to almost 100 percent. Water can be easily drained into the ground, reservoir and used for irrigation. A septic tank of the storage category is an improved version of a cesspool in which cleaning is not carried out, but only wastewater is collected. When the septic tank fills to a certain level, it becomes necessary to clean it. This is usually done using special sewage disposal equipment.

If we talk about differences from a cesspool, then no filtration into the ground is carried out in this case. This means that no harm is caused to the environment. But still, this type of septic tank is used in last years extremely infrequently due to the high cost of services of special sewage disposal equipment. This type can only be used if you live in the house relatively infrequently.

Septic tanks are used not only for accumulation, but also for purification of sewage. As a rule, at first the wastewater settles in them, after which decomposition occurs at the biological level with the help of special bacteria - anaerobic and aerobic, which are specially added to the ground to achieve this goal.

Their use makes it possible to purify water by about 65 percent, after which it goes into the ground, where it is further purified.

For this reason, the best types of soil for this category of septic tanks will be sandy and sandy loam. If the soil is clay, then it is better to use another septic tank, although this option is not prohibited in this case. It’s just that then the installation of a septic tank will be too expensive, since creating filtration fields will still require special installation.

Kinds

In your own home, sewerage can be of several types and is classified according to various criteria.

Typically there can be three of these criteria:

• sewerage location;
• the purposes for which it will be used;
• difference in the type of wastewater that will be collected.

If we take the first two criteria, then the system under consideration is as follows.

• Outdoor. It is a complex for receiving wastewater from buildings and other objects and transporting it to special treatment facilities or the place of discharge into the receiving water centralized sewerage. Typically, this includes pipelines, as well as rotary and inspection type wells.
• Internal. Such a sewer system collects wastewater inside the house thanks to special devices water intake and pipeline systems, after which it transports them along the highway to a special external sewerage complex.
• Wastewater treatment. Before wastewater is discharged into the ground or reservoir, it must be cleaned thanks to a special four-stage system, which consists of several levels (physical-chemical, disinfection, mechanical, biological).

If we take the criterion of collected wastewater, then sewerage is as follows.

• Domestic. It can also be called domestic or sanitary. It is usually designated K1. This type of sewage system includes the entire complex of devices that are connected to various plumbing fixtures. This includes trays, ladders, siphons, funnels, as well as a network of various pipelines that consist of pipes different sizes, fastening mechanisms and fittings.
• Industrial or manufacturing. Usually in diagrams its designation goes under the abbreviation K3. This type sewerage is intended to drain water that is used in some technological process. This type of sewage system is not used in our own homes, but it cannot be ignored.
• Shower or rain. This type is usually designated as K2. Such a system is a whole set of drainpipes, gutters, sand traps, storm water inlets, funnels, and so on. Typically, most of such a mechanism is laid open, but pipelines under the foundation can also be used to transport rainwater somewhere outside the site.

It should also be noted that sewerage in a private house can be of two types:

• autonomous;
• centralized.

The selected type will depend on where exactly the wastewater will be discharged - into your own septic tank or into the central main line through a collector-type well. If local sewer runs close to home and connecting to it will be cheap, then it will be more profitable to connect to it due to the fact that the costs of use in this case will still be lower.

In addition, treatment systems can be different in nature.

We are talking about the following types:

• septic tank:
• dry closet;
• bioremediation using a special unit;
• cesspool.

We have already talked about septic tanks, so let’s talk about other types. There will be a dry toilet suitable solution only for a cottage where the owners rarely live. And it does not solve the issue of drainage from the shower and kitchen. Purification using a special station is beneficial due to high productivity and a good degree of wastewater treatment. But the costs of this option will be considerable due to the need for energy consumption and the high cost of equipment. Option with cesspool was the most common not so long ago. But in Lately the amount of waste has increased significantly, and few cesspools can cope with it. In addition, the risk of land pollution has increased significantly for this reason.

Preparatory work

Each of the above solutions treatment facilities requires a clear understanding of the device and the purposes for which it will be used. For this reason, before starting work on creating a sewerage system, it is necessary to carry out necessary preparation, so that the system can really work efficiently after it is built and put into operation.

What to consider?

Before you start creating a sewer system, you should calculate everything down to the smallest detail. And the first factor that will be extremely important is the choice of location for installing the system.

Its placement will be influenced by such factors.

• How close is groundwater located?
• Relief features of the territory where the sewerage system will be located. Here we are talking about the fact that the movement of water is usually carried out by gravity, which means the slope of the soil will be extremely important.
• Physical structure of the soil.
• Availability or absence of drinking water sources.
• How much does the soil freeze in winter?

Sandy soil usually friable, due to which liquid can easily pass through it, which means there is a possibility of contamination by household waste. Using the example of the simplest solution - a septic tank made from concrete rings or from tires, let's consider what needs to be taken into account. First you need to calculate its volume. We will proceed from the fact that one family member who lives in the house uses two hundred liters of water, which must sit for three days.

That is, for a family with four members, a septic tank with a volume of slightly less than 2.5 thousand liters will be needed.

In addition to the factors mentioned above, it should be said that the distance to the nearest residential building should be no more than five meters. It should be the same to the neighboring site. If there is a highway nearby, then the distance should be twenty meters. And if there is a pond or water intake point nearby, then the distance should be at least fifty meters. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that if an increased level of groundwater, then the design must be supplemented with a pump or pump for transporting groundwater to the filter well.

Another factor to consider is the choice of pipe materials. The time of use of the entire mechanism will depend on this factor. If we are talking about internal sewerage, then pipes made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride with a cross-section of 11 centimeters are usually used, and for dilution - with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters. Their cost will be lower than metal pipes, and their service life will be longer.

Connections should usually be made using cuffs made of rubber, which are sealed with a special silicone-based substance. If we are talking about installing the outer part, then other pipes are used orange color. They are made in this way color scheme to make them easier to find in the ground. They are made of particularly strong plastic and also have a diameter of 11 centimeters.

Design

As it became clear, any installation and construction work cannot be carried out without first creating design documentation. And sewerage installation will be no exception. A sewerage laying scheme is formed from the general layout of the so-called wet elements. The wiring can be configured in any way, depending on the customer’s wishes.

Should be listed important aspects, which cannot be ignored:

• drainage from the room where the toilet is located must be carried out exclusively using pipes with a cross-section of 10-12 centimeters and a length of at least 1 meter;
• for drains from the shower and kitchen, you can use polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene pipes of five centimeters in size;
• if the building has two or more floors and there is more than one toilet, then they should be placed exclusively on top of each other (for a one-story house this rule does not work and it can be placed anywhere);
• distribution bends should be made by combining two bends made of plastic, the bend of which has an angle of forty-five degrees, which should minimize the risk that the sewer will become clogged;

• The toilet should be connected directly to sewer riser on minimum distance from the pipe;
• other plumbing fixtures should be connected to sewer network above the toilet connection point to eliminate the possibility of feces getting into the drain lines;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof and a fan hood must be installed on it to ensure ventilation of the sewer inside;
• the maximum distance for connecting plumbing-type appliances to the riser should not be more than three meters, and for a toilet – a meter.

In addition, other expert advice should be given:

• when creating an internal sewerage project, you should first draw up a scale diagram of the building, first taking all measurements using a tape measure;
• now it is necessary to determine the installation location of the risers;
• Conventionally, we mark the location of plumbing fixtures on all floors;
• depict the location of the pipes on the graph;
• we determine the dimensions of the riser and waste pipe based on the number of devices;
• we find the point of exit of the sewerage from the building;
• we summarize the length of all pipes and count the shaped elements;
• Now we draw a conclusion and draw up a sewerage diagram.

Installation

So, now let’s move on to the actual installation of sewerage in our own home and find out how to install it correctly. The laying of the sewer system, after the project has been made and calculated, should start with the installation of a septic tank. To do this, you need to dig a pit somewhere three meters deep. You need to calculate the volume of the septic tank in advance, taking into account the number of people living in the apartment. You can make a pit yourself, but to speed up the process it would not be superfluous to use special equipment. A sand cushion is made at the bottom of the pit. Its thickness should be at least fifteen centimeters.

Now we create a formwork structure from boards or chipboards, which must immediately be reinforced with a special reinforcing belt. You can make such a belt from rods made of metal. For greater confidence, you can tie such rods using steel wire. Now we make a couple of holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. These sections will become the entry points for the system main and the overflow pipe that connects the sections of the septic tank.

Now the entire formwork structure should be concreted. A vibrating tool is used to distribute the solution evenly. Note that this structure must be monolithic, for which reason it is usually poured once. An example should also be given if the installation of a two-chamber septic tank is required. First, the bottom of the first compartment is formed by pouring concrete. As a result, we get a sealed structure where the waste will settle. It is in this part that solid large fractions of waste will settle below. But in the second part, slightly purified liquid will accumulate.

Thanks to the presence of a pipe that connects both compartments, it will go into the adjacent chamber.

There is no need to make a bottom in the second compartment due to the fact that the section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. You can also use concrete rings for this, which will simply be laid one on top of the other. At the bottom we make a thick layer of sedimentary rocks. It will filter the effluent. You can use gravel, pebbles or crushed stone. We install an overflow pipe between the parts. It is located somewhere at the level of the upper third of the wells. Note that summer residents usually use a two-section septic tank when carrying out the sewer installation process. Although, if desired, there may be more compartments, which will provide higher quality cleaning.

It’s also easy to make a cover for a septic tank yourself. This requires concrete and formwork structure. Or you can take a reinforced concrete slab. A special inspection hatch must be made in this part. It will allow you to control the hood, as well as the filling of sections. After all this, when the installation is completed, you need to fill the pit with sand or earth. The sump tank needs to be cleaned about once every two to three years.

The next step will be laying the highway. It will be carried out from the septic tank to the area where the sewer pipe comes out of the foundation. Note that the pipeline must run downhill so that waste water can flow down. It is important that the larger the size of the pipes used, the smaller the inclined angle will be necessary for high-quality operation of the pipeline. But the average is about two degrees.

Note that the sewer system should be laid lower than the freezing level of the ground. Usually we are talking about an indicator of one meter, but sometimes an indicator of 70 centimeters will be enough. Although if the region is cold, then the level should be increased to one and a half meters. Before laying the pipes, you should create a dense sand cushion at the bottom of the trench, compacting it well. This will allow for reliable pipe fixation and prevent the pipeline from collapsing when seasonal soil shifts.

If we talk about the most correct scheme, then for the dacha the best solution There will be a direct pipeline laid from the building to the collector. If necessary, you can make a turn and install a well in this place for inspection. You can use cast iron or plastic pipes intended for outdoor sewage systems. Everything at the joints should be done as tightly as possible. When everything is ready, the trench is filled with sand, and only then soil is placed on it.

To connect inner part from the outside, use corrugated pipes. This makes it possible to ensure reliability during ground movements.

To lay pipes in the building, we will need:

• a sharper knife;
• saw for working with plastic;
• sets of rubber installation seals.

First we need to prepare the shaped elements.

We are talking about the following elements:

• transition couplings, which can provide a transition between pipes of different sizes;
• connection fittings with three or four holes, which allow for pipeline branching;
• transition bends necessary to form transitions between pipes of the same size;
• bends forming corners, they can be 45 or 90 degrees.

Generally sewer installation in your own home it will not be difficult if everything is calculated correctly. First, the installation of vertical risers in the required quantity is carried out. Usually they are installed from the base to the roof, so that this entire structure can be successfully combined with the ventilation shaft. The installation location is usually selected closer to the toilets, which should be located no further than a meter from the riser. If the toilets are located, say, under each other, and the house is small, then one riser will be quite enough for such a building.

Note that the furthest plumbing fixture should not be further from the riser than five meters.

Now the inlet pipes are connected to the riser. First, the toilet pipes are connected, which should be lower than all the others. After this, lateral branches are connected. Sometimes a large number of plumbing fixtures can be connected to the supply. It should be said that the thickness of the supply pipe should be taken with the calculation of the overall performance. The last stage the devices in question will be connected using siphons. Then everything will depend on the selected category of waste disposal, the properties of the earth, as well as how the groundwater behaves. Therefore, for each case everything will be individual.

It would also not be superfluous to give an example of creating a mechanism for country sewerage without pumping. Summer residents are increasingly looking at such systems, and therefore it would not be superfluous to explain how to make them. Note that such systems are represented by a two- or three-chamber septic tank, which will be active at the same time. If the mechanism has two tanks, the sump will occupy three quarters of the structure, and for three-chamber ones - one second. In the first part, heavy substances settle. As the liquid is filled, it enters another compartment, where the light parts are separated. In the third part, the water is completely cleaned of dirt and enters the well for drainage or filtration field. The important thing here is that both containers are sealed.

This type of system requires pumping, but not as clean as when using a simple septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewer pump, the cost of which will depend on various factors. Such equipment will be used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump. It should be noted that the frequency of this procedure will be influenced by both the composition of waste water and the size of the reservoir tank. The structure will need to be cleaned when the silt reaches the overflow level. Then it will need to be pumped out.

Over six months, somewhere around 70-80 liters of sediment usually accumulates in the container.

Standards for the location of sewer outlets for various plumbing fixtures

Any sewer system can be designed in such a way that all plumbing devices that are connected to it have a minimum number of different intermediate elements, which will only complicate the design of the mechanism and significantly reduce its reliability. The ideal solution is when the siphon coming after the plumbing fixture is immediately connected smooth pipe with a previously installed sewer pipe. For implementation, it will not be superfluous to know exactly where the plumbing equipment will be located before creating the project. It would be even better to know which plumbing fixture will be installed in a given location.

At the same time, there are features for different categories of plumbing equipment that make it possible to simplify the sewer connection. It and the placement of various plumbing fixtures will be seriously influenced by factors such as the level of the clean floor. Indeed, in relation to this parameter, the height of equipment and sewer pipes and the location of water outlets are set. This parameter should be known in advance, for which reason the installation of sewerage pipelines can be carried out even before the floor screed is poured and the finishing coating is applied.

Now let's say a little more about the plumbing standards related to the system for certain devices.

• The height of the connection of the siphon to the sewer socket for the washbasin should be at the level of 53-55 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. Its center should be directly in the center of the washbasin. To create a connection, you can use sewer pipes with a diameter of 4-5 centimeters.
• The center of the socket should be at the level of 22-24 centimeters if we are talking about a wall-hung toilet.
• In the case of a sink, this figure is 30-45 centimeters right in the center of the sink.
• If a waste shredder is built into the sink, then the bell center should be at a height of 30-40 centimeters, but offset in any direction.
• For a wall-mounted toilet this figure will be about 18-19 centimeters.
• For washing and dishwashers the connection of the drain hoses will be at a height of 60-70 centimeters.
• For bathtubs, as well as shower cabins with a tray, it is necessary that the bell-shaped center of a sewer pipe with a diameter of 5 centimeters be at a distance of no more than 6 centimeters from the level of the finished floor. If this is not possible, then installation should be carried out on a stand. Although there are a number of bathtub models, the connection for which is carried out at a level of 8-10, or even 13 centimeters.

These recommendations almost always work, since manufacturers of such goods try to comply with generally accepted standards, which, by the way, are not prescribed by law anywhere. But in reality, anything can happen, so actually having the equipment installed in a predetermined location will be a big plus.

Possible problems and their solutions

It should be said that quite often, even without violations during installation, problems arise in the operation of the sewerage system in your own home.

The most common troubles are the following.

• The sewer smells bad. To prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors, toilets and sinks are connected to the mechanism using u-shaped siphons, where there is always some water. This type of barrier prevents the passage of unpleasant odors.

• Blockage. It often happens that the system is clogged, even if the installation has been carried out according to all necessary rules. For this reason, risers on all floors should be equipped with special tees, so that there is no need to disassemble the system until the plug is removed.
• Freezing sewer. This is another problem that occurs frequently. The reason is that many people simply lay the drains above the freezing point of the soil. It should be said that this problem should not be ignored due to the fact that sooner or later the pipe may simply burst and then it will need to be replaced and repaired.
• Inconsistency various elements each other. To avoid such a situation, installation should begin with the installation of an outlet assembly connecting the riser to the pipe that approaches the septic tank. The outlet is a metal sleeve with pipe trim. Its diameter should be larger size riser pipes. Usually we are talking about a figure of 13-15 centimeters. And the sleeve should protrude from the foundation by 12-16 centimeters.

To prevent the above and other problems from appearing, you should be guided by the following principles when installing such a system:

• if the pipes have different diameter, then they must be joined using special adapters;
• using oblique tees, you can connect risers and pipe outlets;
• the toilet should be located as close as possible to the main riser;
• installation of external sewerage should be carried out exclusively in the warm season;
• as you approach the riser, the pipe size should become larger, not smaller;
• Where the kitchen and bathroom pipes intersect, a manifold should be placed.

To ensure that the sewer system in your own home always works efficiently and effectively, and also functions well, experts recommend following a few simple rules. The first thing that needs to be done is to regularly flush the external and internal pipelines with a large amount of hot water. The second tip is that in plumbing fixtures, especially in the bathroom and kitchen, it is required to use garbage traps to prevent hair, dirt, and various insoluble substances from entering the drain.

Another important recommendation from experts is to pump out various sediments from the septic tank at the right time, otherwise they may cause a breakdown of the entire system. Another expert tip is to keep grease waste out of your drain. Especially when it comes to animal fats, which settle on the pipe walls and can cause pipe clogging.

Experts recommend that when purchasing components and pipes, check whether there is a rubber lining in the socket, since many people constantly lose it. Under no circumstances should it be connected to a ventilation mechanism. fan pipe. According to experts, when installing PVC pipes into a ditch, it is necessary to carefully monitor the joints due to the fact that the connecting points are extremely fragile and unstable.

It is also recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is usually installed as close as possible to the area where the pipe enters the building in an accessible place. In addition, if the building has the usual set of water consumption points, then installing a drain pipe is completely optional; you can limit yourself to a vacuum-type valve.

In general, as you can see, creating a sewer system in a private house is a process that requires serious calculations and a lot of attention from the owner of the house. Moreover, the creation of such a system involves thinking through the water supply system at home. In addition, much will depend on what type of sewerage system will be created. Pressure sewerage will have its own characteristics, and external or internal sewerage will have its own. In any case, for the competent implementation of such an undertaking, it is important to think through everything to the smallest detail and consult with specialists.

Have own house- the dream of many people. When the opportunity arises, they begin to build a mansion on their own. During its construction, many questions arise. One of the most common is the installation of sewerage in a private house. If it is present, it ensures comfort when living in the house. It allows you to drain wastewater from your home into a special well.

When it comes to plumbing when building a home, many people turn to the services of specialists. Although their work is of high quality and after its completion the owner receives effective system sewage systems, however, their services are not cheap and require certain expenses. Or maybe refuse outside help and do all the work on your own? Moreover, although there are difficult moments here, the task of independently installing a sewer system is not one of the impossible. If you delve into the intricacies of constructing a sewer network in your home, then you can do all the work yourself, save a lot of money and get an effective sewer system.

What should you know?

When an owner decides to install a sewer system in a house, the first thing that needs to be done is to find out whether there is access to a centralized highway. If such a line runs through your village, then installing a sewerage system in this case is not very difficult. You just need to find out from the experts:

• which pipes are best suited for draining wastewater and water from the house;
• how to lay pipes correctly;
• how to properly route pipes to the collector.

The greatest difficulty when connecting to a centralized main line is laying pipes on the street. During this work, you have to dig a trench. How deep the trenches will be required largely depends on the level of soil freezing. Usually pipes for sewerage on the street laid at a depth of 0.5-1 m.

If your house is located far from the sewer main and there is no way to connect to it, then in this case you will have to start working on installing an autonomous sewer system.

Types of sewerage in a private house

First you need to decide what the sewer system will look like. It can take different forms:

• cesspool;
• septic tank

cesspool

Traditionally for draining wastewater from a home cesspools were used. Now they are considered a relic of the past. However, they have the right to life if only because:

• they effectively handle wastewater disposal;
• Construction work is devoid of difficult moments.

If you decide to create a sewer system like a cesspool, then before you begin to implement this plan, you need to find out about the engineering and geological features of the soil on your site.

The easiest option to build a cesspool is do brickwork . It makes the most sense to use red ceramic brick as a material. If you are willing to spend money on hiring special equipment, you can build this structure from concrete rings. When constructing such a pit, the bottom is concreted, and then rings are installed. The structure is covered on top with a slab with a ventilation hole and an inspection hatch.

Septic tank

Many homes use a septic tank as their sewer system. Its main advantages are:

• simplicity of construction work;
• reliability during operation;
• possibility of installation on your own;
• simplicity of work on the installation of such a sewage system.

At present There are several types of septic tanks. There are even three-chamber ones that have a high degree of purification of wastewater and domestic water. And all thanks to the fact that such systems contain an aeration complex and biofilters.

Sequencing

Before starting work on the device autonomous sewerage in your home, you need to decide on a work plan:

First you need to decide where on your site the cesspool will be located. You should know that the well for drains must be located below the level of the house.

Determining where the collector exits the building is also important. It is necessary to carefully inspect the exit point of the pipe, taking into account that all waste water from your home will be concentrated at this point. It is necessary to inspect the place of receipt in order to make sure in the correct installation of the collector. There should be no distortions or deviations during installation.

When the area has been inspected and important questions solved, you can proceed to drawing up a sewerage project.

It must be taken into account that the external sewage system must be straight. The inner one has many angles and bends, therefore, when working on its installation, you should calculate all the dimensions of the pipes and bends.

When all the important points have been resolved and all calculations have been completed, you can proceed to purchasing the necessary materials.

The appearance of the internal sewage system is no different from that installed in the apartment. But the amount of work involved in its installation will vary significantly.

Less time and effort will have to be spent on its creation if the home has old sewer . In this case, the main work will be related to the dismantling of old pipes. You can use old sewer pipes. However, it may turn out that you will have to redo the entire system. In this case, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on creating a new autonomous sewer system in the house. The floor will need to be raised.

And if it turns out that the depth of the sewer is insufficient, then it will have to be deepened. To do this, you will have to dig a hole under the foundation, and then measure the distance from the bottom edge of the foundation to the top. It must be at least 1 m. In this case, the wastewater transported along the laid collector pipe will not freeze even in severe winter.

It is necessary to dig a trench with outside Houses directly to the well. It should be deeper than in the house. This is necessary to ensure a constant slope for the pipe. In this case, the water will flow freely into the well.

At the exit from the house, the trench should have a depth of at least 1 meter, and every 10 meters the depth of the trench should decrease by half a meter.

Laying sewer pipes in a trench

The installation of a wastewater disposal system involves laying pipes both outside and inside the house. Next, we’ll talk in detail about how external pipes should be laid. Experts give the following recommendations in this regard.

At the bottom of the dug trench it is necessary add a layer of regular sand. Its thickness should be 15-20 cm. Creating such sand cushion will protect sewer pipes from excessive pressure, even if they are polypropylene pipes. By laying the pipes on the sand, they will sag slightly and take a comfortable position. This will eliminate excessive load on them in the form of pressure from the filled soil.

Another important point is the connection and sealing of joints. A tee must be inserted every 3 m of pipe. Thus, an audit will be arranged, which is the same pipe that goes to the surface of the earth. The inspection is necessary so that if there is a blockage in the pipe, it can be cleared without any difficulties. Experts do not advise saving on installing an audit. The funds spent on the purchase of tees will pay off during the operation of the sewer system. After every four meters it is advisable install revision. From the outside, the pipe outlet is closed with a special plug.

When installing internal sewerage, many owners of private houses are increasingly using polypropylene pipes. These products have many advantages:

• they are not subject to corrosion;
• have a long service life;
• installation of such pipes is simple and accessible to every owner.

Having made a choice in favor of polypropylene pipes when laying internal sewerage, it is necessary to take into account how many sources of wastewater there are in a private house. If a large number of plumbing fixtures are installed in your home, then in this case it is optimal to use pipes with a diameter of 100 millimeters for laying internal sewerage.

It should also be taken into account that when leaving the washbasin, the pipe must have a diameter of 50 mm. Therefore, when laying internal sewerage, pipes will have to be joined different diameters. However, we note that at the moment this does not pose a big problem, since special adapters are available. Therefore, you don’t have to worry about reliable sealing of the joints.

When connecting pipes to each other, it would be useful to check the quality of the gaskets. They should be free of damage, in which case leaks at the joints will be excluded.

The risers are also equipped with an inspection. Its installation is carried out from the floor at a height of at least a meter. In addition, special exhaust pipes are installed, which should be located above the roof at a distance of 70 cm. Why is such a thing necessary? complex design boner? When a private house is connected to a sewer, gases and an unpleasant odor are inevitable. If the riser has reliable ventilation, then you can get rid of such unpleasant phenomena. Installing a riser for sewer ventilation ensures the displacement of polluted air. Therefore, by spending time and money on its installation, you can get rid of the unpleasant odor in your home.

Another important point to be aware of: if the riser is located in unheated room, then it is necessary to carry out work to insulate it. A special outlet must be used to connect the riser to the external sewer. Its diameter should be smaller than that of the pipe on the riser.

Installation of the outlet to the riser in the direction of movement of contaminated water should be performed at an angle of 90 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to use two 135 degree bends to connect the risers. If there is a need for another additional riser, then use an oblique 45 degree tee. In addition, an additional outlet is installed.

It is much easier to set up an autonomous sewage system in a household if there is one riser and one collector pipe. When laying external sewerage, it is best to use 150 mm polypropylene pipes.

Conclusion

Any private home must have sewerage. It provides convenience during your stay. If your home cannot be connected to a centralized sewerage main, then in this case you will have to carry out work to create an autonomous sewerage system. This work is not so difficult, so you can do it yourself. Most often when laying sewerage in a house polypropylene pipes are used. It is necessary to select the right materials and perform the installation correctly so that the joints between the pipes are airtight.

The depth of the trench in which the pipes will be laid is of great importance. It should be below the freezing depth to prevent freezing of the drains in the pipe in winter. If you are starting work on laying an autonomous sewer system for the first time and do not know how to do it, then for high-quality installation sewer structure, before starting work, you should read the instructions for its construction and find out about the recommendations of specialists. By following them and carrying out work in accordance with the technology of laying a sewer system, you can get an effective system that will ensure the effective removal of wastewater and used water from the house into the well.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These construction rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the basic requirements of a joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To drain wastewater into the general sewer system, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain makes it necessary to use sewage pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in buffer capacity, allowing the operation of the sewerage system for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the laying can only be changed using connecting parts;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows laying with some bending (up to approximately 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even when negative temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and destruction of pipes.

• The slope of the gasket must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, solid fractions of wastewater will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and angles. The exception is crosses, the bends of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if clogged.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the direction opposite to the blockage.
An oblique tee will guide the cleaning tool in the direction of the drain movement.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the bathtub piping is not hermetically sealed, overflowing of the sewer can lead to flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout their service life. Preferred polymer pipes(PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises it is allowed to embed it in the floor, walls, ducts and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, I have encountered blockages that could only be cleared by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large fragment of thick glass stuck between the walls of a cast iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

In wooden floors, polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which in certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to embed pipes into ceilings living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewage system in a private house must include ventilation risers (fan pipes), which are connected to the highest points of the system. The drain pipe is installed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will indeed limit draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from getting into it during a rainstorm.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste removal, the latter is quite important.

• On a roof in use, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The design of the in-house sewage system must provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at turns;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Pitch, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is lower than the hatch of the nearest yard sewerage well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding section of the sewerage system is completed sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

The connections of elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with an inspection or hatch (lid) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height for plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewer system is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in pipes is unlikely to give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help you avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sections of sewerage in the subfloor, basement or behind false walls. It is better to place risers in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a box made of plasterboard or wall panels. It is advisable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used for this purpose); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foam roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of ordinary PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with porous rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to properly assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm/m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm/m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The mounting points of a horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the pitch between the clamps, the loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are secured with clamps under the necks of the sockets. This fastening will prevent them from moving under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, onto which large-sized debris (papers, rags, etc.) that get into it can get caught.

The easiest way to cut a pipe is with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working in indoors do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below-average pleasure.

Be sure to clean it after cutting. inner surface deburr pipes and chamfer the outside. The burrs will begin to collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will significantly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use for lubrication machine oil and other fuels and lubricants: they will cause the seals to crack.

When laying hidden (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It really is necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with the height of the system being only 4 meters, significant draft would not arise in it. In addition, all connections between plumbing fixtures and sockets were carefully sealed.

No such luck: after some time, a characteristic sewage smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing the toilet, a stream of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum that appeared in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bathtub siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for septic tank aromas to enter the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe in top point sewerage.

Heating

Often practiced in warm climates open gasket sewer sections. Thus, in Crimea, with its average January temperature of +3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the ground surface. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people’s buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in warm climates too. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is attached heats up.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces unnecessary heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for installation is to leave end coupling and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end outside the waste container.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube within a year or two of use, but vinyl cable insulation perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely complicated. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

If desired, even a private house in a rural area can be equipped. The first thing a resident of the country faces is the lack warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. This is not a luxury, it is a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house - difficult process, which requires taking into account every little detail. How to do this?

External and internal

Work related to the installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a drain pipe, a riser, as well as pipe distribution to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires connecting pipes to the septic tank. You can also connect the sewer system to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly simplified if it is possible to discharge wastewater into centralized system. If the house is located in an isolated area, then you should create a system with a homemade septic tank. It can be with or cumulative. A cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Layout diagram in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, you should take into account all the features of the house and the location of the premises. The finished version can look like anything.

When designing a sewer system inside a house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after this can you determine where the remaining parts of the system will be laid.

How to make the right diagram

The scheme for laying a sewer system in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the house plan. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
2. Then you need to decide on the location of the riser or collector pipe.
3. At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing fixtures must be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
4. From the plumbing it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, bends and corners should be taken into account.
5. It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result will be the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is drawing up a diagram of the external system: releasing pipes and laying them to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging the internal system

The installation of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up approximate diagram. At this stage, several nuances should be taken into account:

1. To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
2. For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
3. To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45°. This allows you to reduce the risk of blockages during sewer use.
4. It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage systems inside the house. This material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewerage in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out necessary calculations, purchase of materials required. Gray pipes are used for wiring inside the house. To install an external system, orange-colored pipes are required. The difference in color can be explained based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, this concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more severe loads. The material for their manufacture must be more rigid.

To ensure successful installation of sewerage in a private house with your own hands, you can use double-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. It is much cheaper and no less effective to use orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used for arranging the external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater drainage.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer system in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant for the job. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve quality.

The simplest option for laying sewerage is to use PVC pipes or PP. There are enough similar products produced a wide range of. If necessary, you can purchase material required diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - a cuff. Thanks to this element, laying a sewer system in a private house takes little time. The joints are connected easily and securely. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. Silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable for this.

Things to consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

1. If pipes run through walls or ceilings, they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on parts of the system.
2. The slope of the sewer system elements depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this figure should be 3 cm/m, and for a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm/m.

Sewer outlet installation

If a problem arises and the internal system does not correspond to the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the outlet. This is the border zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to a pipe leading to a wastewater collection tank.

The outlet must be installed through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewerage system in winter. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe located in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. At each edge, the sleeve should cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for sewerage release.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to install the riser in the toilet itself. The installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, you should use pendants and clamps. You can also install the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other parts of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to avoid using sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from the shower, sink or bathtub, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Don't forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living space.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clear the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By following the rules for laying sewerage in a private house, you can create an external and internal system without any problems. In addition to installing the riser, a drain pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is installed at the connection point. After this, the vent pipe is led into the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the building ventilation system or chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Laying an external sewer system in a private house is no less important than installing an internal system. If the arrangement is incorrect, problems may arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn your drain into a big, smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with the installation of a septic tank. Settlement type structures are most often used. This is a container or a combination of them through which wastewater passes. Gradually they are cleared. This occurs due to the precipitation of heavy inclusions. Afterwards, the wastewater undergoes additional purification in a filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological method cleaning.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of sufficiently large volume is installed. All waste is collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out using this method of arrangement outdoor system easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not that difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. In this case, the average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in a house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an external system

Sewerage installation in a private house does not end after complete installation internal system. After all, the arrangement of the external part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

1. First you need to prepare the materials: a ready-made container of the required volume made of PP or a ring made of reinforced concrete. If desired, you can lay it out of brick or fill it with a monolith.
2. The next step is to determine a suitable wastewater treatment method.
3. Afterwards are carried out excavation: a pit is dug for the container and trenches for laying pipes.
4. All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about comfortable septic tank maintenance.
5. Pipes should be installed at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm/m. The joints must be sealed.
6. The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
7. After carrying out work on the heat and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, you can fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on personal plot. You should not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how to sewer a private house. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting to operate the sewer, it is worth running it. To do this, the system needs to be flushed clean water. This will allow you to identify all the shortcomings and correct them. Only after this can the operation of the sewer system begin.

In fact, the process of installing individual fragments is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to avoid mistakes when drawing up a sewerage diagram, and also to make correct slope pipes Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

The installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the layout and installation scheme. This allows you to arrange all the plumbing fixtures as conveniently as possible, make the correct slope, and accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will work uninterruptedly, and if one of the elements breaks or becomes clogged, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up plans for internal and external (external) sewerage for a private home or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Drawing up a diagram starts from the farthest plumbing fixture in the attic or upper floor. All horizontal lines necessarily come down to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed along the same vertical line.

The sewage system in the house consists of:

• Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
• Drains from all plumbing;
• Pipes leading wastewater into the external sewer system;
• Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
• Clamps in walls that support pipes and give them direction and angle.
• Central riser.

It is important that there is no transition in the house from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of floors of the building, the presence of a basement, the amount of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device) also matter.

On the diagram All elements should be displayed to scale so that in case of planned repairs or emergency situation It was possible to quickly understand the wiring and find the breakdown.

External line

External sewerage starts with the pipeline from the foundation. The wastewater is discharged to a septic tank, cesspool or filter structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). There is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood located outside.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be installed near windows, with access to the yard or near smokers. Categorically it is prohibited to connect it to a regular ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for collecting drains, autonomous installations are used.

1. cesspool. It is easy to organize on site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of wastewater. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater and causing an unpleasant odor.
2. Do-it-yourself septic tank made of brick filled with concrete or ready-made reinforced concrete stakes c. It performs its functions well, is durable and strong. The disadvantages include long installation times and significant construction costs.
3. Industrial off-grid installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered due to the speed of construction, high quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
4. Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. It features the highest degree of purification and high productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

You definitely need to decide on the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that Each resident of the house uses 200 liters of water per day. The wastewater in the septic tank settles for 3 days. Based on these data, we get Exact size waste tank.

So, a family of 4 consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, you need to select a septic tank of exactly this volume. If desired, you can make a small reserve in case the tank is maximally loaded. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main fittings:

• Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
• Tees with a side section at 45 or 90 degrees.
• Elbow for connecting pipes with different heights (RUB 450/piece).
• Straight-line double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
• Revision (60 rub.)
• reduction of various parameters (from 40 rubles/piece)
• Hood hood (from 50 RUR)

Before you begin to equip a sewer system, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the basic requirements put forward for it. As we will tell you in a special review.

Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to human body. Find out which coarse filter is best for your summer cottage.

Optimal slope and depth during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of installation. With a cross-section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid blockages and “greasy” sewage in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When installed on plot of land the same angle of inclination is maintained. The sleeve (a pipe with a larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewerage system, and located 30 cm above the soil freezing level.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable– you will have to make a very deep septic tank. If a constant slope is maintained, this will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost increases due to additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or insulation with a heating cable can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross-section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

To organize a sewer system in a private house, pipes can be used cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

External (PVC)

Designed for external networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite their relative cheapness, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and hidden installation . For them, it is recommended to connect using the method cold welding. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

• Single or multi-layer.
• Foam propylene is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
• The connection is made by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the design and installation of an external system

Brief instructions on how to make local autonomous system do-it-yourself sewer system in a private country house (dacha) looks like this:

1. Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
2. Formation of a sand cushion.
3. Layout of all component elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
4. Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewer. For greater reliability The fastening points are treated with silicone sealant.
5. Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
6. Backfill the trench, trying to compact sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding sudden loads at right angles. Thickness of sand backfill - not less than 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, shaped parts for external utility networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the area with an intermediate inspection well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer system for a private home, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house, do everything according to the diagram yourself and lay the pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be of better quality if follow several instructions:

When installing sewerage it is important to take into account every nuance: placement of plumbing fixtures, topography of the site, location of the intake manifold or septic tank, depth of pipe laying and angle of inclination.

Only with careful charting, careful planning and order By installing a sewerage system in a private house or country house with your own hands, you can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain waste well without creating additional problems in the house and on the property.