No matter how expensive materials we would use to repair the ceiling, if the repair is done poorly, then all our efforts will come to nothing. The matter concerns all stages, where one of the most important is leveling the level of the ceiling surface.

Today we propose to consider methods of sealing rust on the ceiling, let's talk about the secrets and technologies of their camouflage.

Probably many people who do not understand professional level in repairs, they do not understand the very concept of rustication. Let's be clear. So, by rust we mean grooves in the form of a depression different sizes, more often seen in older houses.

Just for the times Soviet Union did not apply innovative technologies ceiling finishing, whitewashing or painting were considered the pinnacle of bliss, and no one paid attention to small deformations.

The builders left seams between the tiles when adding to the house. ceiling, people didn’t think how to hide them, so rustics have survived to this day.

If you are the owner of such an apartment, most likely you do not want modern world There were such imperfections in your home. So let's make every effort to make the ceiling perfect!

Note!

Unfortunately, the joints of the plates have perfectly equal parameters. Think for yourself, who thought about the equality of the ceiling, if main task it was easy to build a house. Therefore, it so happened that the tiles themselves are not located in one straight line with each other, and their level leaves much to be desired. If this problem is particularly pronounced in your home, consider hiring a professional to repair work. It’s just that it can be very difficult for beginners to cope with the task, because the matter requires knowledge and some skills.

When you have assessed the amount of work and fully count on your strengths, we will only support your endeavors.

Look professional techniques, used by craftsmen to level the surface:

• With laying of beacons and further plastering of the floor level;
• Or use the method of drawing out the solution using building regulations and distributed over the plane. However this technology in most cases it is suitable for minor deformations and differences. Much other techniques are implemented in case of more significant flaws.

Step-by-step instructions for leveling the ceiling surface

The matter is far from small. Now you will see the whole complex of actions that have to be performed:

• Masking rusts, we will also not bypass the preparatory work on the entire rough ceiling.
• If you see a need, you will have to install a special plaster mesh.
• Installation of beacons.
• Coating the surface with plaster.
• Most likely this will be necessary, so do not skip the stage of puttingtying the ceiling.

What tools do you need to buy?

• Hammer - like this ordinary tool, without which not a single repair can be completed;
• A hammer drill with an attachment, popularly called a shovel;
• Chisel - available to almost every master;
• The spatula is narrow, as it is called - adjustment;
• Wide spatula - it is important to arm yourself with both to seal the ceiling in different places. Please note that the width of the latter should be 45 centimeters;
• Roller – choose a smooth one without seams for your structure. It is believed that the longer the pile, the better. Optimal length– 11 millimeters;
• Rectangular construction brush;
• Mounting foam;
• Serpyanka tape (a kind of mesh used to reinforce connections between tiles. Standard width– 20 centimeters;
• Sandpaper;
• Plastering in two types – initial and final;
• Construction mixer. Of course, many do without it, but there is no better way to mix the solution.

So, we invite you to take a look at the professional approach to sealing rust

To better understand the essence of the matter, we considered it necessary to describe each manipulation in detail:

• We are actually working with the ceiling rustication. Arm yourself with a spatula and a chisel in order to bring the deformation into even parameters - so that the depth matches the width. For significant defects, simply widen the walls and smooth them out.

Continue until the residue is gone construction waste, under no circumstances leave softened layers inside!

Large rusts are increased to 3 - 5 centimeters, sometimes a huge parameter is required.

Valuable advice!

Don't be too scared big size rust after opening. Do not skimp on repair layers, leaving damaged ones on the surface. Otherwise, during the final finishing they will show their “fairy”. As they say, it is better to do everything correctly and efficiently at the beginning of the work, rather than redoing the repair several times.

• After cleaning the rust, there will most likely remain dust from building materials remove it with a dry brush or something else. Then be sure to coat it with a layer of primer. Do not neglect this manipulation, because the primer serves as a fixative and an additional adhesive system. Use a brush; its bristles can penetrate even the smallest pores. Choosing a product will not be difficult, since the range is impressively large.

Yes, we said primers are in construction stores full - full. However, we strongly advise you to purchase material from a well-known manufacturer, or a product about which many positive reviews have been written. Don't play with fire by buying a cheap mixture. This way, you risk financial losses, because cheap and low-quality material will not last long, pulling all other layers of repair to the bottom.

• We are waiting completely dry adhesive and wipe workplace with a damp towel.
• Now is the time to apply mounting foam inside the joints.
• It remains to wait for your time, pay attention. That the foam takes approximately 24 hours to dry. Stop all activities during this time. Cut off the hardened foam with a well-sharpened knife.
• Apply primer again to the cut area.
• An important manipulation is pushing the plaster into the damaged area. Experts recommend condensing the material tightly. To prevent bubbles from forming. Identical with the primer, here too pay attention to the popularity of the manufacturer. Of course, you may have your own options, but many specialists use Knauf-Rotband.
• We wait the allotted time and apply serpyanka along the seam, simultaneously plastering it.

Important point!

It won’t cost anything to add a little primer to the solution, but the quality of the material will increase significantly.

We perform identical manipulations:

• On all large cracks on the ceiling surface;
• In the corners where they are often localized;
• At the junction of the wall and the ceiling.

The main thing is done - there are no more rustications! You can proceed to the preparatory work of the rough ceiling, namely its leveling and plastering.

Only novice repairmen, without much work experience, wonder whether it is worth completely peeling off the repair layers.

The answer, as such, essentially does not exist, to different situations take an individual approach.

• Concrete flooring – we have old plaster based on cement and sand. Try to leave a piece of material somewhere in the far corner. If it is not amenable to mechanical action, you can safely leave it.

Only under one condition - there should be no whitewash or paint between the plaster and the concrete base.

• WITH you will encounter difficulties when changes in the ceiling are visible to the naked eye. Then, whatever you say, you still have to remove all the layers right down to the concrete floor.

Important note!

Job will go wherever faster when using a hammer drill with a shovel-like attachment.

Remember that it is strictly forbidden to touch all the roundness and corners of reinforced concrete!

• With an old ceiling, but with an even level, you will get by most easily. Check every corner for voids or cracks. Then wash off the whitewash.

Valuable advice!

Give the painted ceiling a little roughness, then apply a primer.

We figured out how to properly disguise rust, thereby saying goodbye to the old standards of ceiling repair. We hope you find the article useful.

Thin layer plaster . Thin layer plaster Apply only to stone, brick, concrete, reinforced concrete, slag concrete and other stone-like surfaces. On wooden, straw, reed and fiberboard surfaces, the thickness of the plaster must be at least 20 mm, regardless of the type of plaster.

If the thickness of the tentorium is up to 7 mm, prepare a plastic solution and apply it in one layer at a time, carefully leveling it. With a tent thickness of 10 mm, the solution is applied in two layers: spray and primer. Before applying the solution, the surfaces are moistened with water. If the thin-layer plaster is of high quality, beacons are installed.

Plastering on mesh surfaces . Mesh surfaces prepared for plastering are painted with creamy cement mortar or cement paste. Staining is repeated two or three times after 4-8 hours with light pressure on the brush. Sometimes the creamy solution is sprayed over the grid with a spatula from a falcon. The spray is applied in two to three doses, two to three hours after each application. The solution coats the mesh thin layer, giving it the necessary rigidity, and it stops vibrating. Then plastering is carried out in the usual way. The solution is often spread on the back of a spatula.

The cement mortar is prepared in the following sequence. First, make up a dry mixture of cement and sand, add fiber additives and mix everything thoroughly, then pour in water. Cement-lime mortars are prepared first, like cement ones. After this, the lime dough is diluted with water, mixed and thick lime milk is obtained, on which the mixture is mixed.

After the mesh cells are covered or covered with the solution, after a day they begin to apply the solution in the usual way - by throwing or spreading.

If plastering is carried out along beacons, then after closing the mesh cells with the solution and setting it (a day or later), they begin hanging, arranging marks and beacons, along which plastering is carried out in the usual way. Lighthouses are best arranged in the same way as concrete surfaces, using a rule with a level. Lighthouses are often arranged like this. First, nails are frozen into the solution, the surface is checked using them, marks are made on the nails to which the rule is attached, and the solution is applied under it. After applying the primer, gypsum beacons are cut down, the places where they are installed are cleaned of gypsum, moistened with water, sprayed and covered with a solution, which is then leveled. After this, covering and grouting are done.

Finishing rustications between floor slabs . Before finishing begins, it is necessary to prepare the seams. They are cleaned with a steel brush or cut with a chisel. Then the gap between the slabs is filled with tow, compacted, but so that it does not reach the front surface by 15-20 mm.

The seams between the floor slabs are covered flush with the slabs with mortar, leveled and rubbed. To make sedimentary cracks between the slabs less noticeable, a small semicircle is created along the mortar - rust. This whole process is called rustication finishing.

There are two ways to finish rustications. The first is that the rust is cut through with a rustication over the rubbed, slightly set mortar (Fig. 47, a). The second method is to pull the rust over fresh, unset mortar, using for this purpose simplest template(Fig. 47, b). It is made from a board required width, cut at an angle of 45° on one side.

In order for the rustics to be straight, they are carried out according to the rule, which is attached to the ceiling using two or three thin slats 10-15 cm longer than the height of the room (Fig. 47, c). The slats are placed obliquely on the floor and first the ends of the rule are pressed with them, and then the middle of the rule is pressed with an additional slat. In this case, the slats bend a little, spring and firmly press the rule to the ceiling. Rustication is carried out according to the rule, cutting through the rustication. If the rust is not clean enough, it is corrected with a trowel. Sometimes the rust is carried out with a trowel with a strip nailed to its canvas in the shape of the rust, having previously moistened everything with water. This makes the rust cleaner.

IN modern construction floors between floors and ceilings are usually made monolithic. But quite often in multi-storey construction and private housing construction, standard floor slabs are used. When they are used, visible stripes and rustications usually remain on the ceilings, separating monolithic reinforced concrete slabs.

Previously, until the end of the last century, the main method of sealing the seams of such ceilings in residential premises was plaster and putty. Of course, one can argue that then there were also the most different types ceiling decorations: there were suspended ceilings, there were also ceiling tiles, but it was in residential premises that the low height, and the shortage of the materials themselves, did not allow their use. There is nothing to say about this type of finishing, which “takes away” the very minimum height of the room, like a suspended ceiling. IN modern form stretch ceiling, although they appeared more than half a century ago, they remained exotic in Russia for a long time.

Nowadays, of course, ceiling leveling doesn't pose much of a problem. It’s worth contacting any construction and finishing company, and in a few days you will already have a ready-made, pre-fabricated suspended ceiling. There are no particular difficulties in self-finishing plasterboard boards or ceiling tiles.

As for the “good old” method of puttying and plastering, few people now will undertake to repair rusts between floor slabs using this method. Anyone who has ever done repairs and encountered leveling the ceiling in exactly this way, they remember very well - no matter how diligently you close it up, some time passes, even less than a year, the seams inevitably begin to appear. First, in the form of thin “hair” cracks, then as clearly visible cracks, and then there is shedding or even falling out of entire pieces of plaster.

Changing the approach

Ignoring such a simple finishing method is completely unjustified. The prevailing stereotype that a seam between slabs is a temporary and very short-lived measure arose as a result of a misunderstanding of the causes of cracks.

Floor slabs are very durable reinforced concrete products, and the seam between them serves only decorative functions. It is impossible to fasten adjacent slabs together with any material so that the strength of the connection is comparable to the strength of the slabs themselves. Microscopic changes in size, small advances, microscopic fluctuations will always be there. The reasons will be temperature fluctuations, changes in humidity, changes in load, and shrinkage of the house. The use of reinforcement, for example, with serpyanka, does not eliminate the inevitable appearance of cracks. In this case, the rigidity of the material of the reinforcing layers is incomparably small compared to the slabs themselves. The mesh only restrains further crack growth and prevents crumbling.

But there is a way out. Since it is impossible to completely get rid of the appearance of cracks, they can be “smeared”, i.e. distribute the crack across its width before it reaches the surface so that finishing coat, for example, the paint is not cracked. Reinforcing materials with a fibrous structure and greater thickness will help us with this. Fiberglass is ideal for this. First, the seam is sealed with plaster in the usual way, possibly using serpyanka if it is of significant width. Then comes a strip of fiberglass. It should be noted here that you should not cover the fiberglass layer with the same material as the main seam. The strong, monolithic structure, although permeated with reinforcing fibers, that will result in the end, if a crack occurs, will also crack and reveal it. You can attach fiberglass to a regular wallpaper glue or PVA glue, cover the top with finishing putty. You can, as an option, stick a strip of non-woven fabric on top of the fiberglass.

Now we have received a layer of finishing on top of the rustication, which, due to its loose structure, is capable of distributing the displacement that appears inside over a wider band. Due to this, the finishing coating becomes capable, due to its elasticity, of withstanding such displacement without cracking.

Not just the ceiling

This approach to sealing seams, cracks and crevices can be used not only in the case of a ceiling with reinforced concrete floor slabs. It is suitable in cases where it is necessary to seal seams between two relatively strong materials that cannot be tightly connected to each other.

This can be a seam between the ceiling and the wall, between the main wall and the subsequently sealed opening. In this case, the main wall will be one monolithic structure, and the embedded opening will be another similar structure. The same case is represented by a wall continued during the reconstruction process or an adjacent wall. It's possible that for some reason brickwork adjacent or extended by a metal wall.

Of course, the proposed option does not cancel or replace modern methods ceiling leveling, but armed with it, you can process any seams not temporarily, until the next major repair, but do the work thoroughly, for a long time. In some cases, it is possible and completely limited to such finishing, even in the main rooms.

A monolithic, well-leveled and painted ceiling looks solid and solid. Now it will not frighten you with the appearance of inevitable cracks after a season. At the same time, in comparison with the same stretch ceiling, due to its hygroscopicity and massiveness, it will be much more effective at smoothing out fluctuations in temperature and humidity in the room than PVC or other synthetic materials for stretch, suspended or tiled ceilings.

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Room ceiling - structural element, the most open visually, so much attention has always been paid to the aesthetics of the finishing of this base. But the class of cladding is always tied to existing technologies and materials, therefore, with progress in construction, some techniques finishing works have partially outlived their usefulness, and the results of their use have to be disposed of.

Let's consider one of these techniques - rustication (rusticism), and rustications are decorative elements that need to be used on ceilings modern buildings disappeared with the development of technology, and in homes old building Today's materials provide a choice - to repair the rustications on the ceiling or repair them.

What are rusts

From time immemorial it has been used in the decoration of building facades. a natural stone or its imitation, the visible part of which is a flat or faceted surface roughly processed by chipping. If such cladding is not streamlined, the result will be a plane with a monotonous texture that does not have any artistic appeal. Therefore, the joints of stone finishing elements with each other are made in the form of a dividing strip of a fixed width - rustication. Sometimes such a stone itself, finished with a strip of a fixed profile along the perimeter of the front part, is called rustication.

Purpose of rustics on the ceiling

When interfloor ceilings the buildings are prefabricated, the presence of slab joints is a natural factor. Once upon a time, the perfection of these pairings was not considered of great importance– strength and tightness were more important. Therefore, the mounted floor slabs were often not located strictly in the same plane - their installation levels could differ by several centimeters. In addition, the range of finishing leveling materials was not rich - cement-sand, cement-lime mortars and chalk-based adhesive putty. The elasticity of these materials was low, so soon after finishing the seams, cracks appeared even between slabs mounted in the same plane.

The ceiling rustication helped solve the problem - a straight demarcation groove of a fixed section, which was made along the seam between the slabs in the joint filling material. Such rustications on the ceiling, with their strict geometry, masked differences in the level of installation of the slabs, the longitudinal cracks between which also became less noticeable, as they ran along the bottom of the rustication furrow.

Sealing ceiling rustics

In houses of old construction, long-term exposure external factors(vibration, subsidence, physical wear) leads to the fact that the rust filling materials peel off from the base and fall out of the seams between the slabs. Whatever finishing decision is made, without caulking collapsed rustications on the ceiling are indispensable.

Preparing the base

Proper preparation of the surface for repairs is the key to the longevity of the result of the work performed, so you should ensure everything the necessary conditions to complete them, empty the room of furniture in order to think not about the amount of dust, but about the quality of preparation.

So how to fix old Rusticating the ceiling with your own hands is quite possible, let’s take a closer look at all the necessary components of this operation.

Removing old leveling compounds

Volume preparatory work depends on the condition of the leveling layer on the ceiling as a whole. When the plaster is damaged only along the rustications, it is cleaned only at the joints of the slabs. If the old finish is in poor condition over the entire surface, then the entire ceiling needs to be cleaned, because then, after sealing the rusts, its dismantling may lead to the peeling off of the new rust filler.

The joints of the slabs are cleaned of old putty, plaster, caulk and debris. It is convenient to do this manually - with a narrow chisel and hammer, a spatula and a metal brush with hard bristles.

Important! The tool for cleaning the ceiling in full is selected depending on the condition old decoration, firmly seated plaster does not need to be fanatically cut down at any cost - this may lead to the formation of cracks on other bases, including those of neighbors.

Priming of cleaned surfaces

After cleaning the concrete slabs from all layers, the bases are primed with one of the hydrophobic compounds, for example, manually prepared aqueous solution latex proportion 1:4 (a higher concentration forms a film on the surface that impairs adhesion) or ready-made composition. It is convenient to do this manually with a narrow brush, having first cleared the ceiling of dust with a vacuum cleaner.

After a day, when the primer has dried, the gap between the plates must be filled with an elastic compound with good adhesion.

Filling the joints of floor slabs

Important! You should not try to fill the joint with a cement-based composition - if the building deforms, the strength of this filler will still not be enough to hold the slabs, and cracks will form along the seam, through which, in the event of a leak from above, water will enter.

Ideal for filling and sealing gaps between slabs polyurethane foam, it is better to choose a proven type, since low-quality or expired material may not form enough foam when used. Good quality It is considered to be polyurethane foam that, after curing, forms a fine-cell material of uniform density. The nozzle is screwed onto the container and, holding it in an inverted position, by pressing the dispenser, foam is released into the slot, filling the cavity volume by at least 2/3 of the volume.

The next day, excess foam is removed from the seam by trimming with a stationery knife, but not flush with the surface, but going 1.5-2.0 cm into it to apply a new leveling layer (or 3-3.5 cm for cutting new rustications) . There is no need for priming over the cut of the hardened foam, and you can begin to fill the rustication with a leveling mixture flush with the surface.

Instead of polyurethane foam can be used sealing cords, which are made from rubber and artificial rubber of varying degrees of density and porosity.

Having selected a cord of the required cross-section, use a spatula to tightly tuck it into the seam between the plates. The elasticity of the material will prevent the formation of cracks in the filling material, will ensure that the gap is filled and sealed in case of leakage from above.

Leveling the base

If the final goal of the work is to seal the ceiling available rustic, then apply a layer over the cut of foam or sealing cord with a wide spatula and level it flush basic putty, preferably based on white cement - it will be easier to cover the color when painting. The composition is prepared in small portions according to the instructions for use.

After a day, the mixture will harden enough so that you can cut off its excess with a wide spatula and apply a layer finishing putty on top of the reinforcing serpyanka tape, which prevents cracking along the joints of the slabs.

If the finishing condition of the rest of the ceiling is unsatisfactory, then its surface is puttied to the required extent.

After the finishing putty and the leveling mixture underneath have completely dried, as evidenced by uniform White color coatings, repaired areas are sanded, primed and painted.

Rust cutting

If the purpose of repairing the finish is to restore rustication, then over the cut of the excess polyurethane foam, cast and grout flush to the base. cement-sand mortar made from fine-grained sand. Without waiting for the composition to harden, using a rule (long ruler) and a special tool - rustication - cut the rustication, periodically wetting and rubbing the base.

Rustications differ in profile - from primitive rectangular to figured, so rustications of complex cross-section, if properly executed, can become an element of ceiling decor.

After hardening and drying of the cement-sand mortar, produce finishing rustications with gypsum putty using elastic rubber or rubber spatulas. Then the ceilings are sanded, primed and painted.

Conclusion

Removing ceiling rusts is not a difficult procedure even for an inexperienced repairman, with a conscientious approach good result guaranteed. At the same time, deciding how to repair cracked rustics on the ceiling, it is not necessary to limit yourself to the list of materials proposed in the article - there are others, no less effective means, for example, raw rubber, rubber-based sealants, swelling cord, sealing gland packing and others. Therefore, if you do not find the tools recommended in the article in your reserves, it makes sense to evaluate the potential of the available materials - often there are enough of them that it would be impossible to find a rusticated cut made by yourself after repair.

The main point of the article

1. Rusts are elements of finishing technology.
2. Ceiling rustications can be sealed independently.
3. Correct preparation of slab joints.
4. Restoring ceiling rustics is also an option.

Often interfloor ceilings are made from prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs. There are always seams between the slabs. Due to the fact that each slab receives its own load during operation, cracks almost always form on the seams sealed with mortar. To distribute the load on the seam, it is embroidered, making a depression - rust. In addition, in the depression of the rustication, a thin longitudinal crack will not be so noticeable.

Before starting work, prepare the seam: use a chisel and a hammer to knock down the mortar spills from the seam, wire brush clean the surface. The surface must also be moistened with water to remove dust and to prevent water from the solution from being absorbed into the surface. Then the gap between the slabs must be filled with tow soaked in liquid gypsum or cement milk. Tow densely fills the space between the slabs. Gypsum or cement milk holds the tow and floor slabs together, and the tow reinforces the space between the slabs. But it does not reinforce rigidly, but smoothly transferring the load from one slab to another. The tow should not reach the front surface by 15...20 mm. The remaining space is filled with solution. Most often used cement mortar, but mixed can also be used.

The mortar is applied to the seam flush with the floor slabs. Then the solution is leveled and rubbed. “Pulling” the rust is done using a slightly set solution. To ensure straightness of the rustication, usually two or three thin thrust slats are attached to the ceiling along the entire length of the seam, which are 10...15 cm greater than the height of the room. The slats in the middle bend, spring and press the rule to the ceiling (Fig. 1). The rule is set not in the middle of the seam, but a little further away, so that the middle of the rustication pressed to the rule falls in the middle of the seam. Rustication is carried out according to the rule, cutting through the rustication. The rust can also be embroidered with a template specially prepared for this (Fig. 2).

Figure 1. Attaching rules to ceilings: 1 – rule; 2 – slats

Figure 2. Template for performing rustication

After cutting through the rustication, the rules are lifted. If necessary, the surface is cleaned and rubbed.

The rust should be straight and located exactly in the middle between the floor slabs.