Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse made of boards. Frame bathhouse: examples of projects. Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse foundation

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided to do it ourselves at our dacha. We already have a permanent house there, and besides, there are no problems with electricity and water supply. The choice was made at frame construction, as it is not only economical, but can also be built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a design for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bathhouse, I began purchasing timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro- and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and regular red bricks, and refractory clay for the stove. By the way, I designed the stove for the bath myself. An experienced stove master helped me with the laying; after all, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a diagram of the stove on a checkered sheet of paper; I tried to film the construction process (including the construction of the house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, it’s quite difficult to build a bathhouse for two people, so at some points my son and I were helped by two more brave workers.

Layout

To begin with, a project for our future bathhouse was drawn up. We thought about the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, the location of water supply and sewer pipes, and the location of electrical cables were calculated. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the gable. There should be space under the roof for an attic where we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One is used as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two are for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and the washing room (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door for greater security of property during our absence from the dacha.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden stairs and a gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build the foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 posts in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bathhouse and a storm drain will be installed, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We located the bathhouse in one of the corners of the site. Nearby there is a high fence and trees. An ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a font or a small one on the lawn near the bathhouse

Foundation

The foundation, as I already said, under our bathhouse is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first angle was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and leveling it plumb. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure were useful. A cord was tied to the first peg, 450 mm was measured, the angle was checked and two more pegs were inserted, respectively indicating the second and third corners of the bathhouse. Having pulled the cord in the same way, we installed the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the angles with a square, measuring the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly moving the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next stage of the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement rods shallowly.

The bathhouse will have one interior partition connected to the corner of the stove. Using a tape measure, my son and I measured and marked the position of one post that will hold the partition and four more posts that will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. They will go one and a half meters underground and stick out from the ground another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The holes were dug quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was approximately 30 cm, that is, 5 cm larger than the diameter of the asbestos-cement pipes.

To ensure that the posts stood firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the holes, and then compacted this backfill with a hand tamper. I made it myself by nailing a handle bar perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - pour gravel, take a log, lower it into the hole and knock with it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each hole, pillars were compacted and placed, 5 pieces were placed under the stove

My son and I mixed the cement for the posts in a small electric one. They poured cement, sand, and some crushed stone, mixed it and poured in water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the hole, then the first layer of solution was poured into it. We lifted the pipe so that part of the solution flowed to the bottom of the hole, after which we lowered it, leveled it and then poured it to the top in layers of 20-30 cm. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. To avoid staining the pillars, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out quite neat. After pouring, we drove reinforcement bars (threaded rods) into the concrete. The upper edge was left to stick out slightly above the concrete in order to later attach the bars of the lower frame. IN last resort sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and the pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

Two days later, having had a good rest, I started working on the foundation for the furnace. cut chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. I tried the largest sheet on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I placed the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts and washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. The formwork was supported from below with boards.

To make the foundation under the stove stronger, I made a reinforcement frame. I found a welded mesh, cut two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be three-dimensional. Look at the diagram, it shows how the rods are arranged. Of course, ideally, do not use welded mesh, but tie individual reinforcement bars yourself with soft wire. Such a connection is more flexible and almost never breaks down.

In the formwork with laid reinforcement cage poured in, mixed with a portion of fine crushed stone. There’s not much to say here - they poured it in, drove out air bubbles with wire, compacted it, covered it with film and left it to harden. This process is lengthy and takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, having decided during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before I started laying the beams, I dug sewer and water supply pipes between the pillars so that later I wouldn’t have to crawl under the joists.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom frame is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation columns. I took a well-dried timber, 15 x 15 cm, and treated it with Senezh. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high; wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the beams using the “claw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, I cut out all the ends, then laid out the beams in the clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - he coated the tops of the pillars with bitumen mastic and glued pieces of roofing felt to it.

To lay the strapping on the foundation, we had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The timber was laid directly on the posts, markings were made in place, after which I drilled. Having marked the first two beams, we laid them on the supports, checked them with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, and only after that tightened the locking nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for the intermediate posts; we cut down the reinforcement so it wouldn’t interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bathhouse. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

Now it's time to lay the floor joists. In order not to have to worry about cutting out the bars again, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, screws and a screwdriver.

I covered the top of the joists with OSB sheets. The result was a pretty good subfloor.

Zero is ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a cross-section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together using metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the racks should be from 60 cm to one meter, and this is what we did, except that the boards were installed a little closer to each other above and below the window lintels.

The walls are assembled using corners and 45 mm iron screws

We carried out the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to take measurements, cut and fix. Assembly is very simple - first, the two upper and two lower boards are fastened together, then the rectangles of the windows are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. Additionally, we strengthened the wall structure with jibs. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, we attached one more board each with self-tapping screws (we used galvanized ones, 45 mm) above the three window and one door lintels (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting with the front. It is very difficult to install the structure without distortions alone or even together, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and to the floors with stainless steel nails 100 mm long, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed on top of the walls. This method of frame construction is reminiscent of a children's construction set. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

Rafters

The roof of our bathhouse is gable with hanging rafters. In total we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we lifted them onto the roof.

The trusses were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastened the elements with perforated plates, I continued working, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bathhouse will rest on the boards of the top trim and be attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in those places where the rafters will come into contact with the top trim, as well as at the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for a more aesthetic appearance of the overhangs.

Roof trusses

The rafter truss, which serves as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical strips, and in the center I nailed two lintels in order to later install a ventilation window.

The two outer trusses were assembled from just two boards each. We attached these trusses last. The photo shows the bars holding them in place. Thus, we created small canopies on the back side of the bathhouse and above the facade.

Frame and almost finished roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bathhouse with Finnish Pural matt metal tiles, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tiles, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I secured with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, I fastened the sheathing boards.

I nailed sheets of metal tiles onto the sheathing. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tiles in one row, adhering to the following pattern:

the sheet was lifted onto the roof with ropes;
work started from the lower right corner. The first one was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
The last sheet of the row was secured when the second row was laid.

Immediately, so as not to have to return to the roof several times, I cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

I installed the gutter with help. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bathhouse is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on this data, I purchased two pipes 2.2 meters long, two outlet funnels suitable for the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 plugs for the gutters. Another 4 elbows were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the cornice every meter. Four locks were also needed to secure the three-meter gutters.

I started work with markings. I took a stepladder, a tape measure, a marker, and thread and crawled under the roof. I needed to stretch the thread enough to attach the gutter with a slope of 5mm per 1m, so a total slope of 25mm.

I attached the two outermost adjustable brackets to the sheathing (15 cm from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were secured so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice strip to the sheathing.

By the way, I did all this work before installing the metal tiles, and laid the gutters directly when the entire covering was installed. I connected the pipes when the outer cladding of the walls of the house was done.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. This gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

I used a hacksaw to cut out V-shaped holes in the gutters, took the funnels and connected each one by simply sliding the edges under the outer bend of the gutter and then bending the flange over the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

I installed plugs at the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was secured to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel; I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed with dowels to the wall.

Bathroom wall cladding

For the outer cladding of the walls of the bathhouse, I chose Izoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these slabs strengthen the rigidity of bathhouse walls. I took “Izoplaat” 25 mm thick, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green slabs - Isoplaate, vapor permeable. Roof - Pural Matt metal tiles

I stretched the Izospan film over the Izoplaat slabs. This material is also waterproof and windproof, but still allows steam to pass through. I secured the material with a stapler, making horizontal and vertical overlaps of approximately 10 cm.

I insulated the inside of the bathhouse with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places because they did not fit into the space between the posts. Additionally, I didn’t secure the cotton wool with anything; it lay down quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finishing cladding.

The outer decorative lining of the bathhouse was made of clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, a bathhouse lined with wood has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to “breathe” and condensation does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick directly onto the vapor barrier.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Ebb tides for the base

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the installation of the lining began that I began installing the ebb for the base. I took green metal strips. The width I chose was only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bathhouse. To secure the ebb tides evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with installation from the far corner of the bathhouse.

I took the first plank and marked a line across the profile with a pencil in the center. I stepped back 5 cm from this line to the right and left, put points and connected them so that a triangle was formed. This triangle was cut out with metal scissors, after which I bent the strip, attached it to the wall of the house and tightened special self-tapping screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a diagram that I found on the Internet.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter were attached in the same way - simply screwing in the screws and checking the horizontalness at the same time. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the planks, I additionally strengthened the base ebbs with polyurethane foam - I applied it in a small amount under the planks.

Installation of lining

I decided to install the lining using clamps. Of course, you can simply nail the boards, but this is quite ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and secured it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted into the grooves of the first board of the lining on top (they were inserted next to the battens of the sheathing, stuffed on top of the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Both boards were tapped with a hammer through the intermediate block so that they were tightly connected. Next, we inserted the clamps again and secured them with nails. The remaining boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and door openings.

I simply nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small one above the front door. Later, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, covering it with metal tiles and installing a street lamp under the canopy.

Window

Windows are a different story. They must be installed following technology and avoiding distortions. In a bathhouse, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but I installed everything. To begin with, I took vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. The first one was secured around the perimeter window frame from the inside, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. Later I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame and tapped plastic spacer wedges to create a two-centimeter gap for the foam. The windows included mounting anchor plates with holes into which I screwed long self-tapping screws. Afterwards I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I only filmed from one window – the largest. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not get into my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try the frame in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I secured the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, having previously placed wedges under it for leveling. I filled the gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame with mounting foam, when it dried, I hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary edged larch board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid a foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, and basalt wool slabs on it, tightly inserting them between the floor beams. I stretched plastic film over the cotton wool and secured it with tape. To finish, I simply nailed another layer of edged boards. All that remains is to make the hatch cover and secure the ladder. The fasteners were included, but I simply screwed all the parts to the floor beams.

I purchased a good quality ladder, retractable, equipped with a ready-made hatch cover. However, so that this cover would not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully covered it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch in closed became almost invisible.

Wiring

I dealt thoroughly with the issue of electricity, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes on terminals. In the panel there is a general RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, fortunately the distance was short. He screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bathhouse, and screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped.

The photo shows the clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

the SIP wire is moved apart, a place for the clamp is prepared;
the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
the wires “wedge”;
The anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

I installed sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a panel in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room I ran wires only for the lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because in these rooms it is too humid and sockets simply cannot be installed.

He took copper cables and pulled them through a non-flammable metal corrugation, which he secured with clamps. In some places we had to drill holes in the support beams to install the corrugation. I installed the socket boxes when I covered the walls with clapboard. And the sockets, switches and beautiful lamps themselves (for the steam room I took with a heat-resistant lamp, class IP-54) were installed last.

I'm doing grounding. The grounding was done as expected - a triangle, the vertical corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. The RCD is triggered “at once”

The grounding was done as it should be - a triangle, the vertical half-meter corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. To do this, I had to enlist the help of an electrician friend who had a welding machine. A triangle trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove the triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then they welded another section of steel strip, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bathhouse. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bathhouse in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (mine was 8 mm in diameter) from the grounding to the distribution panel. We wound the conductor around the bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine worked on the panel.

Everything took about two hours. I treated the metal strip with bitumen to prevent it from rusting. I dug the ditches, compacted them, and next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water treatments are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer system is a necessity. I provided a drainage well as the final collection point for wastewater. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, compacted the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings into the pit. The joint of the rings was coated with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - per bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and steam room. I ran another pipe from the location of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor and pipes were inserted into them. The three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe was laid at a slight slope along a dug trench to the well. One pipe was not long enough, so I had to connect two straight sections with a coupling. All joints are silicone. I first added sand to the bottom of the trench, and used it to fill the pipe after installation.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. I built the neck out of brick, and instead of the lid, I installed a metal hatch for the gas tap. It is small in diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the drainage level in the well and pumping out wastewater with a sewer truck. But there’s no need to go all the way inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for the gas tap was installed. You can check the level and pump it out. There's no need to climb inside

Drains with siphons and filters were installed in the premises. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I preferred a product with a metal grille, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grate itself is square with a round hole in the center; when laying the tiles, I didn’t have to spend a lot of time fiddling around with cutting. I installed the drain in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Brick cutting machine - grinder on a Chinese bed

I developed and designed it myself. The laying was carried out by the stove maker, based on my sketches. The work began before the finishing floors were installed, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing felt was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. To prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also pulled to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks that form the ash chamber and the “appendix” necessary to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classic stoves with an ash chamber with an area equal to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed them with masking tape. I inserted a binding wire into the existing holes and twisted it. During the process of laying bricks, the stove maker placed the long ends of twisted wire between the rows, which ensured that the doors were securely installed.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally secured and part of the “appendix” was blocked. Here they laid a cast-iron grate, cutting rectangular cuts in the bricks for it. The grid (size 20 x 30 cm) lay down freely, with a gap of about 2 cm necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To make the ceiling strong enough, the bricks were hewn down into a wedge. Metal corners were not used when arranging the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised laying a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and firebox door were arranged according to the principle described above. Detailed Process masonry is visible in the photo. Fireclay bricks with triangular cuts were also installed in the firebox. These holes are necessary for supplying secondary air, without which the afterburning of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, asbestos cardboard was laid between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. The bricks are hewn and installed on edge.

Also visible in the photo are red brick ledges on which cast iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. A fireplace portal will be installed on the right side of the stove, facing the steam room. And the cleaning and fuel loading doors open into the dressing room. This way, smoke and carbon monoxide will never penetrate into the steam room, and you can splash some water on the hot stones - “steam.”

Bath stove. Adapter frame

Bath stove. Fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on rows 20-21. A ceiling was formed above the far smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which ensured the free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, instead of a ceiling, the stove maker installed a chimney valve. The part was placed in pre-prepared cuts in the bricks and secured with fireclay clay and two dowels (the holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedit drill).

Two rows later, another pipe valve was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass installed between the smoke channels (direct stroke).

Three valves - two per pipe and one bypass (direct stroke)

The photo shows a transition to a ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each row partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition a cut is visible round shape, in which ceramic will be installed chimney, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

There are also brick protrusions on the side panels of the stove, which are necessary for further arrangement of interior partitions.

The furnace was covered right up to the ceiling. Metal corners were used on which the final row of bricks was laid. Asbestos sheets were laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

Installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian one, Effie Domus for the bathhouse) took very little time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixed with sealant and building clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

A few days later they tested the sauna stove - they burned several newspapers. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making the finishing floor, I laid it in front of the firebox. steel sheet with ash receptacle. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor won’t catch fire if a coal accidentally falls out.

All the bricks that are left :)

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We insulated it. The steam room and shower have tiled flooring, and the dressing room has laminate flooring. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and shower; there are many more important nuances there.

Laying tiles

The tiles were purchased with a matte finish and rough so that they would not slip. We decided that tiles are much better than wooden floors - they don’t rot and are easy to clean. The glue was purchased from best performance moisture resistance.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of EPS to the waterproofing, assembly adhesive was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the solution, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we attached the beacons not to the floor, but to an asbestos solution - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because... It was important to fill the entire floor in one day. The solution was spread from the bucket with a trowel onto the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide trowel and grout.

The tiles were laid away from the drain gutter to make it easier to maintain the slope. Each one was pre-soaked in water. The glue was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. In this case, glue was not applied to the entire surface of the floor at once, but only to the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The glue hardens quickly and cannot be coated with it immediately. large area floor. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected the excess glue around the laid elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. Cutting tiles manual tile cutter. By the way, for precision masonry we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for the seams. And for better contact of the tile surface with binder composition, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

They installed it very quickly. We covered the floor with film over the insulation, nailed down moisture-resistant plywood, and rolled out the backing.

I unpacked the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it down, turning it with a small protrusion towards the wall. I inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the board. I took the second strip and snapped it into the end groove of the first. I leveled it and placed the wedges again. When I reached the opposite wall, circular saw I cut off an extra piece of laminate panel. Started with a segment next row. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which I lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then hammered it through the block with a mallet. The last row had to be sawed lengthwise, precisely measuring the cutting line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are covered with clapboard or tiled. First things first.

Laying tiles

We sheathed the walls on top of the insulation with moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board. Self-tapping screws were used for fastening. They were screwed in in increments of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the frame beams.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth from tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, carefully cut them into strips and screw them around the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower, the first row was laid with floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

I applied glue to the wall with a spatula, applied it and tapped the tiles with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. I checked the flatness and horizontality with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were laid with tiles of a different color.

Some tiles were used for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First I drilled the hole with a spear drill. To prevent the tile from splitting, a piece of masking tape was glued on top. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a crown with tungsten carbide coating for these purposes. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Immediately during the laying process, excess glue was removed with a rag until the composition dried. The grout seams turned out smooth and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, I started working on the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. I used two colors of grout – white and dark brown. For the bath I selected a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's ideal for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket and did not add water.

Before application epoxy grout I lightly moistened the wall with a spray bottle. I collected the mass onto a spatula and then spread it over the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application using a rubber spatula. Well, finally, when the seams were dry, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the steam room were not sheathed with GVL. We stretched the foil vapor barrier and secured it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also taped well the joint between the ventilation air duct and the foil. On top of the foil I carefully stuffed slats - lathing.

I would like to draw the readers' attention to the horizontal position of the wooden planks. I specially positioned them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along the wooden wall and to achieve good air circulation necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if the constant dampness caused the lining to wilt or if it rotted after a couple of years. After all, we build a bathhouse from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal fastening allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to dismantle half the wall.

At first I wanted to just nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on clamps. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, leaving black stains on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation to prevent the wood from rotting. And to attach the first and last strips, I purchased copper-plated finishing nails.

Installation started from the ceiling. I stepped back 3 cm, applied the bar, and nailed the nail into the center. I drove another nail on both sides of the board, and then checked the level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the tenon was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and move.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed to the sheathing with three nails. I inserted the second forcing panel with a tenon into the groove. I lightly tapped it with a hammer from bottom to top so that there were no gaps left, after which I inserted the clamps and nailed them. So I collected it all the way to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the tenon of the penultimate board and nailed it down. Along the way, I drilled holes for the wiring and often checked the horizontal position. I covered all the nails of the first and last panels with a wooden plinth, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I told you how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, all that remains is to make the shelves in the bathhouse. For work I took linden boards and pine bars. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars and cut them with a grinder. I cut the ends of the horizontal bars that will connect to the front vertical posts using the “tenon and groove” principle. That is, I made a “tenon” on the horizontal bars, and a “groove” on the vertical posts.

The first thing I screwed to the wall was the support posts. I would like to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor; a gap of up to two centimeters must be left. I attached cross members to the support posts. I simply took the mounting angle and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the point where they connected to the support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid boards on the frame and secured them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges and thoroughly sanded the boards and frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

Its principle is similar to the installation of an entrance door. The door in the steam room is glass, the door in the dressing room is wooden. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The connections are sawed at an angle of 90 degrees. First, I secured the side strips and the top using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box and blew out polyurethane foam. When it had dried a little, I carefully nailed the side strips of the door frame, which covered the gap and a layer of foam.

I didn’t take pictures of the process itself, so I’m attaching a picture diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included; I attached them to the box and canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of the work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Next, all that remains is to hang the door on its hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a douche bucket hanging on the wall, a urinal, a shower and a faucet with spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose the wall compact model with a tap instead cistern, they brought it, unpacked it, and put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes; we marked their location, as well as the outline, on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

Holes for dowels were drilled according to the markings.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on the outlet of the sewer pipe, after which we connected the pipe and siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and coated with red lead.

The urinal tap is very easy to install. The part is connected to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewerage, I coated the joint between the earthenware and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the functionality of the entire system.

A little about the dousing bucket. It's a wonderful device that spins when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket keeps it from overflowing. The bucket frame is secured with dowels, and water is supplied through a flexible hose.

Installed according to the same principle. The package already contains everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot/cold water pipes, then took a level and adjusted them horizontally, while simultaneously bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next stage was the installation of the product itself. A thread was screwed onto the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I placed the mixer and screwed the union nuts onto the eccentrics.

I am sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

Basement siding

To make the bathhouse look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation columns with basement siding panels. To secure it, metal strips are required to create the sheathing. Even a plasterboard profile will do. I would like to note that first I poured the blind area and made a boardwalk on the side of the facade, and only then attached the sheathing and panels. Otherwise it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

To attach the sheathing (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring), I used self-tapping screws and corners (I simply cut off pieces of the plasterboard profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours; the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and secure the horizontal profiles using a level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in approximately every half meter. Masking elements are secured in the corners in the same way. I immediately made square slots in the panels and installed ventilation grates(fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grates on each side of the bath.

Blind area

I poured between the foundation of the bathhouse and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just laid boards on three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Base - plastic panels “stone-like”.

Finishing touches

To give the bathhouse a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and a homemade staircase. The height of the steps on the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled using mounting angles and self-tapping screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made it, near the bathhouse I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood bin. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves, curtains, and hung brooms. In the future, I plan to arrange a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

Bathhouses made of logs and bricks are good for everyone. Except, perhaps, for the complexity of construction and the rather high cost of construction work. An excellent alternative to traditional baths are more modern ones frame structures. Frame construction does not require numerous detailed drawings and the purchase of expensive materials.

On average, the purchase of building materials for the construction of a frame bath requires 2 times less money when compared with other previously mentioned options. If desired, you can build a steam room with your own hands, which is an additional advantage.

Work on the construction of a frame bath begins with the preparation of the project. However, even before you begin drawing up the necessary project documentation, you must do the following:

choose optimal design baths The steam room can be a separate building or an extension to a house or other building;
choose a place to build a bathhouse;
determine the soil characteristics at the construction site.

Depending on this, the requirements for the foundation will change.

However, in the vast majority of cases, frame baths are built on columnar foundations, because Such foundations perform equally well when used in almost any soil.

Start preparing the project. A traditional bathhouse includes a vestibule, a dressing room, a washbasin and a steam room itself. Also note in the project stove installation location(if this is a steam room, it is recommended to place the stove in the corner closest to the door).

The design documentation should reflect information about the type of ventilation system, features of the chimney, roof and other significant elements.

It is strongly recommended to determine in advance the optimal dimensions of all rooms and reflect them in the drawings. For example, the standard dimensions of a steam room are 240x200 cm, the ceiling height is 220 cm. Such a bathhouse can be comfortably used by several people at the same time.

If you wish, you can supplement the project at your discretion. For example, owners quite often equip relaxation rooms and billiard rooms in their baths.

A correctly drawn up project is a guarantee of easy and successful construction. The more detailed and accurate the design documentation is, the easier it will be for you to navigate when performing the work. If you cannot cope with any issues on your own, it is better to allocate money and order a project from specialists. It is better to pay once than to spend a lot of money in the future on correcting various kinds of defects.

At the design stage, calculate the required amount of materials. In this regard, everything is individual and depends on the size of the future bathhouse and its layout. The frame itself is assembled from bars, boards for sheathing and boards for the floor. Instead of plank flooring, the floor can be finished ceramic tiles. At this point, be guided by your personal preferences, however, in the case of a bathhouse, wood is the most preferable option.

You will also need protective materials and wall covering material.

Most often, the walls are covered with clapboard. Larch lining is traditionally used for external cladding, and coniferous wood for internal cladding.

Sheathing boards are fastened in a vertical position.

What you need to know about protective materials?

The construction of a bathhouse is integrally connected with the installation of various protective materials. Excess moisture and high temperatures have an adverse effect on structural elements, so the use of special materials cannot be avoided.

A variety of materials are used to protect against moisture. Most often these are polyethylene, glassine and roofing felt. The vapor barrier is placed between the thermal insulation material and the sheathing. If possible, you should avoid using roofing felt, because... When exposed to high temperatures, it emits an unpleasant odor.

The issue of thermal insulation deserves special attention. With the right choice and proper installation of insulation, heat loss will be significantly reduced, and therefore the cost of heating the bath.

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate frame baths. Fiberglass is no less popular. It is also possible to use other materials. For example, ceilings are sometimes insulated with foam plastic, and floors with expanded clay or other backfills.

The finished frame has a small mass, so the foundation for a bathhouse can be the simplest. The best option – columnar base. The function of supports in this case will be performed by asbestos cement slabs filled with concrete.

First stage. Buy asbestos-cement pipes. The best option is products with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 4 m. The number of pipes is selected individually. Supports must be present at each corner of the bath. In some situations, for example, when the walls are long, 1-2 additional supports are installed under the walls of the steam room.

Second phase. Prepare holes with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of about 150 cm. For this work, it is most convenient to use a gasoline drill. If such a tool is not available, use any available means.

Third stage. Cut the pipes into 2 pieces of equal length. Place the resulting pieces in the wells. Fill the area around the pipes with sand. Compact the backfill thoroughly.

Fourth stage. Prepare the concrete solution. Use a standard mixture of 1 part cement, 2-3 parts sand, 4-5 parts fine gravel and water.

Fifth stage. Fill the pipes with ready-made concrete mortar.

Preparing the bottom trim

The lower trim is assembled from edged boards 15 cm wide and 5 mm thick. The boards are knocked together, after which the joists are cut into the frame. Boards are also used to make logs.

The design in question requires high-quality moisture protection. One of the previously mentioned waterproofing materials should be laid under the joists and trim.

Secure the piping and joists to the foundation pipes. To do this, use metal plates. Treat the finished structure with a good antiseptic. It will prevent wood from rotting and will protect the material from rodents and insects.

Construction of walls of a frame bath

First stage. Mark the space for the frame racks.

Second phase. Set up a pair corner posts.

Third stage. Install several intermediate posts.

Fourth stage. Sheathe part of the frame with OSB (oriented with particle boards). Use screws to secure the sheathing.

Fifth stage. Install a few more intermediate posts and sheathe the resulting part of the frame. Repeat until a complete structure is obtained. Be sure to leave openings for doors and the desired number of windows.

Make a template for assembling rafter structures. All elements of the rafter system are assembled below, on the ground, and, ready-made, rise up. Each element of the rafter structure must be installed above its own post.

For greater convenience, you can lay a temporary covering of ordinary boards on the beams.

It is better that the roof of the frame bath is ventilated. Place ondulin or other material with suitable properties between the counter beam and the rafters. Nail the sheathing directly to the beam.

Cover the gables with pre-prepared sheets. Typically, OSBs that you are already familiar with are used.

Finally, the windows and doors are installed, after which you can begin finishing the bath.

Finishing

Frame bath It should not only be strong, reliable and durable, but also beautiful. To give the object the necessary external qualities, appropriate finishing work is carried out. It is recommended to cover the outside of the frame bathhouse with boards made of hardwood. Place a layer of moisture-proofing material and insulation under the sheathing.

The internal lining of the bathhouse will provide additional protection structural elements from adverse influences. So, the same OSB is suitable for assembling a rough ceiling. Attach them to the floor beams on the room side. Coniferous lining is perfect for interior wall cladding.

The heart of any sauna is the stove. The installation of this element must be carried out in accordance with fire safety requirements. As a rule, a standard system is used, according to which a heating boiler is placed in the dressing room, and a heater stove is installed directly in the steam room.

Lay out the wall separating the steam room and the relaxation room from building bricks.

Divide the resulting frame structure into zones in accordance with the previously prepared project. Select the material for partitions in accordance with the conditions of a particular room. For example, a billiard room and a recreation room can be separated even by ordinary plasterboard partitions made of moisture-resistant sheets.

The same walls that will be exposed to moisture and/or high temperature must be laid out from more sustainable materials, usually a brick. Cover the partitions with clapboard, blockhouse or other similar material. Cladding will give the walls a more attractive appearance.

For finishing the ceiling upholstery, it is best to use linden lining. Same wood the best way Suitable for making bath shelves.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in building a frame bathhouse yourself. Having spent relatively little money and time, you will get a reliable, safe, durable and generally excellent design in terms of its performance properties.

Good luck!

A good bathhouse, made of high-quality material, designed and built individually, taking into account the personal needs of the owner, is the dream of any summer resident. Taking a steam bath, improving your health, or just having a good time in the company of friends or relatives is a real Russian tradition.

Nowadays, unfortunately, it is not possible to build a bathhouse from most building materials due to the state of the general economy of the state. Therefore, we suggest you consider the option of building a bathhouse with your own hands based on a wooden frame. It is easy, quick and inexpensive compared to building from natural wood, timber or stone.

This article provides step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame bathhouse, starting with the rules for choosing high-quality material, ending with the internal lining of the bathhouse premises, as well as several tips and recommendations from professionals.

Construction options

The construction of any bath implies the presence of four main functional premises:

verandas (dressing room);
rest rooms;
shower;
the steam room itself;

Sometimes owners combine several rooms, increasing their functionality without losing the level of comfort. The size of the bathhouse depends mainly on the number of people who will use it. The most common options:

120x250 cm. Ideal sauna for one person. It consists of two rooms: a steam room (120x150 cm) and a dressing room (100x120 cm). You can change clothes in the dressing room. If necessary, you can arrange a corner with a shower in the steam room.
250x250 cm. Like this option will do for two people. It again consists of two of the same rooms (steam room 250x150 cm and dressing room 100x250 cm). If desired, it is possible to arrange a place to store fuel for the stove.
300x300 cm. This sauna is suitable for use by three people. The space inside can be organized in different ways. For example, make a steam room 300x150, and put a shower stall in it, 100x150 cm. The remaining space can be equipped as a relaxation room, which will simultaneously serve as a dressing room.
400x400 cm. The most ideal option if you plan that four to five people will use the bathhouse at the same time. You can leave a square meter for the steam room itself. In this case, the dressing room will be 200x150 cm, and the rest room will be 400x200 cm. Part of the area of this room can be allocated for a shower by placing a stall in one of the corners.

Please remember that these are just a few of the many options available. You have the right to change the parameters of each room, depending on your personal preferences and financial condition.

Preliminary work: planning and material selection

First, you need to draw a sketch, create a drawing of the future bathhouse, and also draw up a work plan that will help give coherence and organization at each stage of construction.

It is important to conduct a small analysis, studying all the nuances of constructing a frame bathhouse, the advantages and disadvantages of both the bathhouse itself and the materials used. It is also necessary to take a soil sample to find out its composition: they will be used for construction works, and if the soil is clay, which tends to settle quickly, then you will need a foundation in any case (in rare cases you can do without it). The bathhouse can be either an extension of the house, in which case the entire space can be equipped as a steam room, the bathroom will serve as a shower room, or separately. The drawing should indicate, in addition to the appearance of the future building, its features: the location of windows and doors (usually this concerns supporters of folk signs and Feng Shui), general dimensions, interior design of the premises, number of floors, and so on.

According to Feng Shui, the windows should be directed to the east, and the door, in order to improve the circulation of Qi energy, should be located in the south direction, and it should open into the room. The number of windows should not exceed three for each doorway.

The main advantages of a frame bath are:

relative cheapness compared to other building materials;
ease of installation. You don't have to resort to command help professional builders. Everything is quite simple, you can build a bathhouse alone;
no need for a massive foundation;
ease of wiring of all communications;
no shrinkage;
high rate of heating of rooms with proper insulation.

The disadvantages include:

poor sound, vibration and waterproofing;
the need for additional thermal insulation of all premises. This is necessary in order to prevent heat loss, as well as to create some kind of tightness;
Difficult to maintain and operate. Due to the fact that moisture penetrates into a frame bath more easily, for example, during rain, the wall insulation can quickly become unusable, and replacing it is quite problematic, since the wall covering will have to be dismantled.

Mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam blocks and many others can be used as insulation. Usage liquid glass Not recommended!

From the materials we will need:

cement (can be M400 grade for building a foundation);
sand (coarsely sifted, quartz, quarry or purified river sand is suitable for building a foundation);
insulating material (steam, hydro);
insulation (about 5 cm thick);
roofing material;
gravel;
timber 10x10 cm (for assembling the lower trim);
timber 5x15 cm (for mounting the frame);
beam 4x5 cm (for arranging struts for racks);
plastic pipes (diameter from 5 cm for water drainage);
clapboards or any other material for interior cladding.

Since a frame bathhouse is very lightweight design, then the foundation can be built using a simplified system. Both a strip foundation, which is poured under all load-bearing walls, and a nested foundation are suitable, but the second requires stable soil, otherwise the building may fall apart.

Foundation

This article will discuss two main foundation options: nested and strip. For the first option, you need to purchase special piles for the foundation; they can be made of metal, cement, or other materials, or you can make them yourself. There are two types of piles: bored and driven. For the first, holes are drilled around the perimeter into which wooden formwork and a metal support column are inserted, after which concrete mortar is poured inside, after some time the formwork is removed, and the resulting space is filled with sand, gravel or a mixture of them. If you chose the second option, then below are step-by-step instructions for you.

Step-by-step instruction:

Immediately before building the foundation, the area on which the bathhouse will be built must be cleared of debris and the top layer of soil must be dug up using a shovel.
We drive small wooden pegs into the ground at the corners of the perimeter, and stretch a thread between them to prevent displacement when installing the piles.
On the market you can find metal piles already equipped at one end with a small drill, which will help you easily penetrate the ground. The rods should be about 10–30 cm in diameter, this depends on the thickness of the future walls, and about a meter in length. This is necessary so that each support sinks 50–70 centimeters underground to the level of soil freezing, and rises another 30–50 cm above the surface. All rods are coated with a primer or special compounds that prevent oxidation and corrosion of the metal. The supports should be placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other. On top, if this is not provided by the manufacturer, to increase stability, you can stuff a square hat also made of metal 20x20 cm and 0.5–1 cm thick. Use a plumb line or building level with a magnet to ensure that the pile is perfectly horizontal.
Holes are drilled in the metal caps, which are later filled with concrete mortar, with their help the grillage will be attached. As a grillage, you can use thickened beams 20x20 cm (then there is no need to drill holes in the supports), or channels, or reinforced concrete slabs.

For greater stability, you can build a strip foundation. Of course, this option will cost a little more, but you will be calm and confident that the bathhouse will last for many years.

A strip foundation is a very good option for small buildings if the soil in your garden area does not tend to move, and with high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation you do not have to worry about the floor and walls being too cold.

Step-by-step instructions No. 2 include the following points:

Identical to the first step in construction pile foundation.
Identical to the second step in the construction of a pile foundation.
Next, you need to dig a trench 60 cm deep and 40 cm wide around the perimeter, as well as under the load-bearing walls (indicators may vary depending on the design of the bathhouse).
The bottom is covered 1/3 of the depth with sand, which is filled with water so that it “sits” better.
A layer of gravel or stone/broken brick is placed on top of the sand.
It’s worth going over the top with a construction vibrator, which will help fill the resulting voids efficiently.
The gravel layer is again covered with sand and carefully compacted. As a result, the height of all layers should correspond to the ground level.
A wooden formwork 20–30 cm high is built on top, inside which is laid reinforced belt. The whole space is flooded cement mortar in a ratio of 1:3:3 (for each bucket of liquid cement there are three buckets of cleaned and sifted sand and three buckets of crushed stone).
After all manipulations, when the solution has hardened sufficiently, the formwork is dismantled. For the first few days, and in hot weather for about a week or a little more, the foundation is watered to prevent cracks from appearing. The solution will finally become durable, turning into a monument, in a month.

When building the foundation, do not forget to dig a trench into which you need to place a drain pipe - it will connect the floor of the bathhouse and the drainage well. In this case, the floor should be equipped at a slight angle, and also additionally insulated, for example, with roofing felt.

The floor can also be insulated by compacting the soil, adhering to the angle of inclination flooring. Next, a pipe is laid in the trench and covered with sand or gravel. A layer of crushed stone (10–20 cm) is laid on top, and a lower concrete screed (2–5 cm) is poured on top of it; bulk insulation, for example, expanded clay, is placed on the screed, which is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top. After all insulation work, the last layer of the subfloor is poured - compacted reinforced mesh upper concrete screed (5–6 cm). A finishing floor is laid on top of the subfloor; most often, boards, ceramic slabs, porcelain stoneware or soapstone slabs are used for this.

Important! Please note that if you are planning to build a heater in a steam room, then it is necessary to allocate a place for it at the construction stage and equip a separate foundation there, which ideally should not be in contact with the main one, since due to a large temperature difference, its destruction may be observed.

Walling

After building the foundation, you can begin building the walls. For frame walls a new base is created, which is constructed in the same way as a grillage using tenon and grooves. At the corners you can use the same beams as for the base; they must be walled up in concrete.

Step-by-step instruction:

To begin with, all material is pre-dried. For the frame, it is not recommended to use coniferous species, since when heated they release a resinous substance, due to which there is a chance of ignition of the entire building, and birch, since it is more susceptible to rotting processes than other species. For these purposes perfect choice there will be material from deciduous trees(aspen, linden, oak, larch), because these raw materials have high level thermal insulation, which is so important for the construction of a bathhouse.
The lower trim must be tightly secured using anchor bolts.
Further construction wooden racks start from the corners along load-bearing walls. Beams are fastened using galvanized corners (the most reliable option), or bottom harness Grooves are cut into which the edges of the beam are subsequently inserted and nailed using nails, bolts or special construction staples. The distance between the beams is usually 60 cm; if an opening is planned in the wall, then the number can be increased by 40 cm, but no more.
Temporary slopes are installed between the beams, which prevent the movement of the racks during construction work.

Do not forget to check each installed support using a plumb line or building level.

An upper frame is mounted on top, which helps to better secure the support posts and is the basis for the roof rafter system, also using metal corners.
A special groove is cut in the beams at the corners of the top trim, and they are secured with 2-4 nails (depending on the thickness of the walls).
Then they begin to install permanent supports. Boards with a cross-section smaller than the racks themselves are used as slopes. They are most often attached with inside baths, four for each support: two upper and two lower.
Next, on the outside, all beams are treated with furniture varnish in 2-3 layers, and on the inside - with an antiseptic; only the counters in the steam room and shower should not be treated.

External wall cladding is an important procedure. The service life of the entire building depends on how well you take care of it.

After all the construction work on the construction of the walls is completed, we proceed to cladding the walls from the outside. To do this, it is attached from the outside around the perimeter waterproofing material using construction staples on OSB sheets.
A frame of small boards is mounted on top of it (not always), and on top of them - facing material, often clapboard boards, block house. This creates some ventilation. Looks beautiful, stylish and elegant. The lining is attached horizontally. To prevent moisture from getting into the seams between the boards, we recommend installing them overlapping.
Insulation blocks are laid under the waterproofing. In places under the slopes, blocks of the same mineral wool should be carefully cut and inserted.
The insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing on top.
The last layer is OSB sheets; they can also be mounted on wooden frame, on which the internal lining will be installed in the future.

Roof arrangement

Despite the fact that usually installing a roof is a very labor-intensive process, which is simply impossible without the participation of professional builders, in a small bathhouse of 6x6 m, or even less, it will not be particularly difficult.

The roof can be either single, double or hipped. The choice again depends on the personal preferences of the owner and his financial opportunities. Let's consider the option gable roof.

Step-by-step instruction:

The first step is to install the Mauerlat - supporting structure, on top of which the roof rafter system is attached.
After the rafters, in order to make the structure more reliable and stable, vertical supports are installed, which are secured using the same galvanized corners. If necessary, at the stage of installing the rafter system, an exit to the attic is made.
A sheathing of boards 15–20 cm thick is installed on the front boards, and roofing material is already placed on it. This procedure is usually carried out starting from the roof ridge.

The roof must be insulated. First, waterproofing is attached, under which blocks of the same mineral wool are installed, and a vapor barrier is placed under the insulation, which can be used as compacted foil. Additionally, for greater tightness, the insulation is covered with polyethylene film. Next comes work on the interior lining.

The finishing touches. Interior decoration

On final stage the floor, walls, ceiling are mounted and insulated (more on this above), windows and doors, and interior furniture are installed. Particular attention is paid to the stove, because the stove is the soul and heart of every Russian bath. You can make it yourself or buy it ready-made. The stove can be laid out independently from brick or soapstone, but this design takes up a lot of space, so it is better to replace it with modern electric analogues.

As already mentioned, it is better not to use for ceilings and walls. conifers trees, but deciduous ones. All electrics in the bathhouse must be covered with moisture-proof material. Buy wiring that is double braided and covered with non-flammable material; be sure to use corrugation for the wires to prevent mechanical damage, because dismantling a wall or ceiling covering, repairing it, and then putting it back in place is not easy or quick.

Take the quality of ventilation seriously. Take care to install special valves and ventilation anemostats that will help after water procedures remove accumulated moisture.

Let's summarize

As you may have noticed, there are a huge number of options for building a frame bath, the choice of which depends only on you. Use high-quality materials, do not skimp on the thoroughness of the work - and then your bathhouse will last for many years, delighting you and your loved ones.

Many steam lovers dream of having a good, but inexpensive, private bathhouse. A place where you can wash, relax, and get a good boost of energy. One of the available and budget options- do-it-yourself frame bathhouse: step-by-step construction instructions will reveal the secrets of frame technology and will become an example for independent construction, starting from the foundation and ending with the correct selection of thermal insulation materials.

Having the skill of assembling frame structures, you can quite simply and quickly with your own hands

Before building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, many people ask themselves: what material to use for its construction? After all, many associate baths with structures made of logs or bricks. But such buildings are quite expensive for their owners, and the time required to warm up, for example, a chopped bathhouse is about 6 hours.

Advantages of frame technology

The construction of a frame bathhouse solves several problems at once, as these are: a simple construction method, the availability of the materials used and the fast speed of construction. The advantages of frame technology include the following:

the most affordable construction cost;
use of lightweight types of foundation;
low thermal conductivity of the structure contributes to rapid heating;
the possibility of carrying out communications inside the walls, which has a positive effect on the aesthetic component of the bathhouse structure;
the absence of shrinkage makes it possible to operate the bathhouse immediately after its construction and finishing;
use of environmentally friendly materials;
there is no need to use special construction equipment;
No special construction skills are required when constructing a frame bathhouse yourself. Videos posted online demonstrate this perfectly;
the absence of wet construction cycles makes it possible to carry out construction regardless of air temperature and water availability;
many ways to decorate a building.

All these advantages contribute to the increasing popularity of frame baths. Reviews from owners who used this technology during construction indicate that such structures are economical and, if constructed correctly, can create excellent conditions for comfortable use.

Weaknesses of frame baths, reviews from owners

This drawback can be eliminated by using only high-quality insulation materials for thermal insulation. It is necessary to approach the choice of thermal insulation material with all seriousness. After all, cheap polystyrene foam or mineral wool will not adequately perform their functions. The use of economy class foam can cause a fire in the structure due to the easy flammability of the insulation.

One of the negative aspects described in the reviews is the shrinkage of the bath. Many testify that over time (approximately 1.5-2 years), the frame structure shrinks, the value of which reaches 8-10 cm. This, in turn, can cause deformation of the internal and external finishing of the building.

Helpful advice! To minimize the effects of shrinkage of a frame bath, lumber that has been kiln-dried should be used during construction.

You can get acquainted with some of the assembly nuances and reviews from the owners by watching a video of building a frame bathhouse with your own hands.

DIY frame bath projects. Photos of the best buildings

Getting acquainted with photos and videos of frame baths with their own hands, many decide to build the structure themselves. Having some experience in construction and taking into account the good practice of constructing objects using frame technology, you can build such a bathhouse quite quickly. However, as in any construction, to avoid serious mistakes, a competent project is necessary.

Projects, photos of do-it-yourself frame baths 3x4, 4x4 m

Before you can build a frame bathhouse quickly and inexpensively, you need to have a ready-made project that you can use as a guide during construction. In principle, a bathhouse can consist of one room, which will combine a steam room, shower and locker room. This is not entirely convenient, since getting dressed after taking procedures in a room with high temperature air and high humidity are not very comfortable.

Typical designs for 3x4 m frame baths provide layouts where separate rooms are allocated for a steam room, a wash room and a relaxation room. Such a bath can be heated with one wood-burning stove or boiler. Drawings of a frame bath can also take into account the presence of a modest veranda.

Do-it-yourself construction of 4x4 or 3x4 frame baths, due to their small size, has its advantages:

decent savings on building materials - if the length of the wall of the structure is 3 m, a six-meter beam is cut in half and there is practically no waste left;
speed of construction - having a design and drawing of a frame bath available, it is possible to erect the structure within 2 weeks;
strength and durability - given that a minimum of materials is required, you don’t have to skimp on the quality of wood and choose a high-quality material with good impregnation.

Helpful advice! Any new building on your site, even a small bathhouse, is subject to mandatory registration in the cadastral register.

A review of photos of frame baths of a small area will help you get acquainted with the projects and choose an option to your liking.

Projects of 6x6 frame baths with an attic

If you are the owner of a large personal plot, it makes sense to build a beautiful and spacious bathhouse. You can steam in it yourself and invite friends - there is enough space for everyone. In projects of frame baths with an attic, a layout has been developed where the rest room, as a rule, occupies up to 20 square meters. m. In the same room there is a staircase leading to attic floor, which is usually used as a bedroom.

Many users post online photos of the stages of building a frame bathhouse with their own hands. Photo reports will help you visually familiarize yourself with the nuances of independent construction.

Insulation scheme for a frame bath

One of important points in the assembly of a frame bath is its thermal insulation. Both the selection of material and its installation should be approached with all responsibility. Mineral wool can be used as insulation. This material is characterized by high vapor permeability, it is non-flammable and walls with such insulation “breathe”. This achieves the effect of a log bath.

You can lay mineral fiber formed into slabs or rolls, but it is preferable to use the first option. Insulation boards are laid between the racks. If the sheets in the corners of the frame niche are deformed and do not fit tightly, it is necessary to straighten the sheets using a knife. The insulation must be in close contact with the wooden frame elements around the entire perimeter, as well as with each other.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend insulating a frame bath with two layers of 5 cm each: the first layer is made of insulation in slabs, the second is made of roll material. Thus, all connecting lines will be blocked.

Between the insulation boards and outer skin The frame is covered with a layer of waterproofing. For this you can use, for example, Tektoten film. The fact is that during operation, the open insulation is partially blown through the ventilation gap, which leads to a decrease in the thickness of the insulation and its deterioration. thermal insulation properties. Laying wind-waterproofing protection from a vapor-permeable membrane will guarantee the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer.

On the inside, a vapor barrier is made of polyethylene aluminum foil. The joints of the film are glued with tape, after which the interior finishing begins. The process of insulating the frame is quite labor-intensive and requires careful execution. If the technology is not maintained, mineral wool may shrink over time, which will affect the thermal insulation parameters of the entire structure.

The video below will demonstrate in more detail the technology of structural insulation during the construction of a frame bath.

Roof arrangement

For small bathhouse A gable or hipped roof shape is suitable. Easier to implement - gable. Rafter system such a roof is made from wooden beams 15x5 cm. For convenience and safety, all structural elements should be assembled on the ground. To avoid errors during assembly, it is recommended to make a layout, the shape of which will be repeated by all rafter elements.

In order to make a model, you need to connect the upper ends of the two rafters with a nail. The lower edges of the rafter legs are placed and secured at the points where the supports are planned. The resulting figure is fixed crossbar- crossbar. The crossbar is connected to the rafter legs using screws.

When all the roof trusses have been assembled, they begin installing them on site. The first step is to fix the front elements, between which a construction cord is pulled for reference. Its location will coincide with the line of the roof ridge. The remaining elements are mounted at its level. The pitch between trusses is usually 1.2 m, although it can be changed up or down.

Helpful advice! When taking the step of the rafter legs, it is necessary to take into account the location of the chimney. It should be centered between the rafters.

The roof is insulated using the materials used to insulate the frame. The roof is covered with roofing material. The ridge is protected with a corner made of galvanized sheet or a factory-made element.

Floor construction and finishing

The construction of the floor of a frame bath begins with laying the logs. If the distance between support points is more than 3 m, it is recommended to erect support columns. In places where the lags come into contact with the strip base and posts, waterproofing from several layers of roofing material is used. Boards are mounted on the joists.

Helpful advice! In order to be able to dry the flooded floor, its floorboards are not fixed to the joists.

For recreation rooms, a floor with a “non-leakage” structure is installed. Its installation begins with a subfloor made of two rows of boards. A continuous flooring of pine boards is laid on top. At first they are simply baited. And only when all the interior finishing work is completed and the room is properly dried, the floor boards are finally adjusted and completely fixed.

It should be noted that the floorboards should be located with a slope towards the point where wastewater is collected and discharged into the sewer. A hole is made at the lowest point of the wooden flooring and connected to the drain siphon. A non-leakage floor requires insulation, which is placed in front of the finishing coating.

Video: do-it-yourself frame baths from foundation to roof

By studying the video instructions, you can learn about the installation features and types of foundation for the construction of a bathhouse, as well as the advisability of using one or another type of foundation. Here you can get answers to all your questions regarding piping, frame installation, roofing and equipping the bathhouse with one or another heating equipment.

Watching video tutorials will help you learn useful recommendations regarding the use of insulation material and its installation. After all, the main thing for a bathhouse is heat, which must be retained inside the structure. Professional advice will help you correctly distribute and install insulation depending on the seasonal use of the bathhouse, which will affect the durability and appearance of the structure.

Many videos are devoted to the finishing section of a frame bath. Here are the advantages and disadvantages various materials for decoration. Consultations experienced craftsmen will reveal the features and performance properties of each type of material. It would also be useful practical advice from those who built and use their own frame bathhouse.

Although construction using frame technology is not particularly complicated, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic recommendations. Some videos contain information about the most common mistakes when building a bathhouse. Reviewing the material will help you avoid them in the future. This will be a guarantee rapid construction reliable and durable design.

Many steam lovers dream of having a good, but inexpensive, private bathhouse. A place where you can wash, relax, and get a good boost of energy. One of the affordable and budget options is a do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions will reveal the secrets of frame technology and will become an example for independent construction, starting from the foundation and ending with the correct selection of thermal insulation materials.

Advantages and disadvantages of frame baths, reviews from owners

Advantages of frame technology

the most affordable construction cost;
use of lightweight types of foundation;
low thermal conductivity of the structure contributes to rapid heating;
the possibility of carrying out communications inside the walls, which has a positive effect on the aesthetic component of the bathhouse structure;
the absence of shrinkage makes it possible to operate the bathhouse immediately after its construction and finishing;
use of environmentally friendly materials;
there is no need to use special construction equipment;
No special construction skills are required when constructing a frame bathhouse yourself. Videos posted online demonstrate this perfectly;
the absence of wet construction cycles makes it possible to carry out construction regardless of air temperature and water availability;
many ways to decorate a building.

When constructing frame baths, environmentally friendly materials are usually used

Weaknesses of frame baths, reviews from owners

To weigh the pros and cons of the frame bath construction technology, you can ask for reviews from the owners. There is a lot of information on Internet forums from those who already have such a bathhouse and have been using it for some time. Some leave negative reviews: frame baths, in their opinion, tend to quickly lose their appearance due to the formation of fungus on the walls. This occurs due to the rapid cooling of the room, no matter how well it is insulated. This drawback can be eliminated by using only high-quality insulation materials for thermal insulation. It is necessary to approach the choice of thermal insulation material with all seriousness. After all, cheap polystyrene foam or mineral wool will not adequately perform their functions. The use of economy class foam plastic can cause a fire in the structure due to the easy flammability of the insulation.

To construct the frame of the bathhouse, timber of various sections is used, as well as boards that have undergone antiseptic treatment

Helpful advice! To minimize the effects of shrinkage of a frame bath, lumber that has been kiln-dried should be used during construction.

Summarizing the above, we can conclude that the main disadvantages are the significant costs of insulating the walls of a frame bath, the need for thorough antiseptic treatment and low fire resistance. However, given the huge list of advantages, the construction of frame baths is not inferior in popularity to structures made of logs or bricks. You can get acquainted with some of the assembly nuances and reviews from the owners by watching a video of building a frame bathhouse with your own hands.

DIY frame bath projects. Photos of the best buildings

Projects, photos of do-it-yourself frame baths 3x4, 4x4 m

When building a 3x4 m frame bathhouse with your own hands, you must take into account that the space inside the room should be used as ergonomically as possible. Such mini-baths can be built in a small dacha or a plot of land with a country house, where there is a need to save territory. No more than two people can indulge in bath procedures here. Before you can build a frame bathhouse quickly and inexpensively, you need to have a ready-made project that you can use as a guide during construction. In principle, a bathhouse can consist of one room, which will combine a steam room, shower and locker room. This is not entirely convenient, since getting dressed after taking procedures in a room with high air temperature and high humidity is not very comfortable.

decent savings on building materials - if the length of the wall of the structure is 3 m, a six-meter beam is cut in half and there is practically no waste left;
speed of construction - having a design and drawing of a frame bath available, it is possible to erect the structure within 2 weeks;
strength and durability - given that a minimum of materials is required, you don’t have to skimp on the quality of wood and choose a high-quality material with good impregnation.

Do not forget! Any new building on your site, even a small bathhouse, is subject to mandatory registration in the cadastral register.

A review of photos of frame baths of a small area will help you get acquainted with the projects and choose an option to your liking. It is possible to complement the design with a glass canopy.

Projects of 6x6 frame baths with an attic

If you are the owner of a large plot of land, it makes sense to build a beautiful and spacious bathhouse. You can steam in it yourself and invite friends - there is enough space for everyone. In projects of frame baths with an attic, a layout has been developed where the rest room, as a rule, occupies up to 20 square meters. m. In the same room there is a staircase leading to the attic floor, which is usually used as a bedroom. The advantage of a bathhouse with an attic over a one-story building is that you can get additional living space on the second floor. A guest room, bedroom or billiard room is set up there, where you can comfortably spend time with friends. And in terms of cost, such a structure will not differ much from a one-story one, since the main costs will be associated with the construction of the foundation.

The technical documentation provides for a support-column foundation made of concrete blocks with subsequent waterproofing of the base. For the floor in a frame bath, it is proposed to use a 22 mm edged board (rough flooring) and a 30 mm tongue and groove board for finishing the floor. The floor material must be subjected to antiseptic treatment and insulated with mineral wool with a layer of 10 cm. For walls, partitions and ceilings, timber 100 x 150 mm, board 50 x 100 mm, 40 x 100 mm are used. The partitions and ceiling are sheathed with clapboard that has undergone chamber processing. Under the cladding it is planned to insulate with mineral wool slabs 10 cm thick and install a vapor barrier in two layers. The attic space is also being built from the same materials.

Helpful advice! Having a competent project will allow you to build reliable design in the shortest possible time and without unreasonable waste of materials.

According to the specification, the rafter system is made of 100x50 boards, the sheathing is made of 22 mm boards. Wave profile ondulin is used as a roofing covering in three color options (to choose from). Windows can be used wooden or plastic, depending on preference. For the steam room, a wood-burning stove with a water tank is used. At the location of the firebox there is brickwork.

If you have some skills in constructing structures using frame technology, standard projects can be used to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. In addition, it is not prohibited to make some adjustments to the finished documentation or offer your own drawings and sketches for production individual project. The option of attaching a small terrace or veranda to the main structure is not excluded. All design drawings were developed with the prospect of constructing a frame bathhouse with your own hands. Photos posted online by users are clear evidence of this.

Assembly of frame-panel baths: projects and prices

Construction of a bathhouse using the technology of assembling panel structures on frame basis It is characterized by high construction speed and low costs for basic materials. The projects provide for and take into account all the requirements corresponding to the construction of structures of this category: ventilation, water supply, sewerage, electricity supply.

Projects of frame-panel baths

The main feature of this technology is that assembling a frame-panel bathhouse with your own hands is very easy - according to the principle of a designer. The modern market offers a large number of ready-made panel kits designed for installation on a frame. Thanks to the three-layer structure and low thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam used in SIP panels, this material has good characteristics and is excellent for baths. Projects for frame baths assume a gable roof; there is no attic space in it, since the panel structure is a lightweight building. The internal space under the roof can be used for storing bath equipment. Depending on the type of soil on which construction is planned, the foundation for a bathhouse can be columnar, shallow strip or pile. The last version of the base is used on sandy soil. To create the frame, timber posts are used: 120x120 mm timber is suitable for corner posts; for intermediate supports, material of a smaller cross-section can be used. Ceiling made from beams 40x75 mm. If the bathhouse is planned for year-round use, the thickness of the insulation is taken to be 15 cm; for seasonal use, a layer of heat insulation of 10 cm is sufficient.

As for the floor, it is recommended to make it pourable. For its installation, an edged or tongue-and-groove board mounted with a slope is suitable. The layout provides for the division of the frame-panel bathhouse into several rooms. The partitions between them are made of wood. If the bathhouse is heated by a stone stove, a separate foundation is made for it.

Price of a turnkey frame-panel bath

Taking into account the construction technology, the cost of a frame-panel bathhouse is always lower than the price of a structure built by any other method. Before placing an order, you should ask the manufacturer about the provision of additional services. Such as installing a stove, installing a roof, installing a chimney. Considering the high speed of assembly, no more than 7 days pass from the date of order to the start of operation of the panel bath. Taking into account the fact that frame-panel baths are inexpensive, the customer can afford to choose any of the presented projects. This also applies to those whose budget is quite limited. Manufacturers offer several configuration versions:

turnkey facility - factory assembly of walls and partitions, finishing of facades and internal walls;
finishing in draft- cladding either the facade or only the internal walls;
without cladding - the object is only an assembly of panels.

Before you buy a sauna of a frame-panel construction, you need to pay attention to the sandwich assembly diagram. Any deviations in the sequence of arrangement of elements inside the sandwich panel may result in rejection of the product from this manufacturer. If the finishing of the panels can be done independently, then re-sorting all the panels for the correct arrangement of materials in them at your own expense makes no sense. The cost of a 6x4 frame-panel bath is 308,100 rubles. The project provides for lining the walls and ceiling with clapboard, the facade is imitation timber, the floor is tongue-and-groove boards 26 mm thick, the roof is colored corrugated sheeting, the height of the bathhouse is 2.4 m. Purchase a 7x3 model of the same configuration, only with external finishing from a block house, possible at a price of 266,700 rubles.

Purchasing turnkey frame baths: projects and prices of structures

Many companies offer for sale various layouts and sizes. finished projects frame baths. Not everyone has the opportunity to assemble and install a structure with their own hands: some do not have the necessary skills, others simply do not have time for self-assembly. By purchasing an inexpensive turnkey frame bathhouse, you can save time, money, and at the same time acquire a guarantee of the reliability of the construction.

Helpful advice! The cost of installing heating equipment can be discussed with the work team before purchasing a turnkey frame bathhouse.

Where to buy a house kit for a small frame bath

It is much easier to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, using a kind of construction kit - a house kit, which includes all the large-format elements for construction. Main components The frame bath house kit consists of beams and panels. You can use ready-made house kits only if there is a foundation. All components are adjusted to size (if necessary), assembled and secured to the base.

House kits for small frame baths have some advantages over structures erected permanently. Firstly, the compact dimensions of the mini-bath allow its structure to be installed even in a modest area. Secondly, it is possible to quickly dismantle the structure and transport it to another location. Thirdly, the presence internal wiring communications allows you to quickly connect and immediately use the bathhouse for its intended purpose. Factory-made house kits are accompanied by bathhouse designs with assembly drawings and architectural sections. At the customer’s request, the company can offer services for obtaining permits and obtaining technical specifications for electricity, gas, and water supply. A package of all permitting documents is attached to standard project. Typically, the lowest cost of kits comes from those organizations that independently manufacture all components. Thanks to the factory assembly and adjustment of the panels, which accounts for more than 70% of the cost of all work, the cost of installing a bathhouse on the site is significantly reduced. The customer just has to build a lightweight foundation, choose the optimal design and purchase a prefabricated frame bath house kit.

Helpful advice! If this is your first time encountering frame technology, check out the materials on the Internet on how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions take into account all stages and features of installation.

You can buy a factory-made house kit for a 6*6 frame bath, the basic composition of which includes a foundation, 150 mm mineral wool insulation, finishing, electrical, plumbing and water supply, at a price of 442,900 rubles, for example, from the KarkasDom construction company. It is possible to buy only a project with working drawings, the cost of which is 7,500 rubles.

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions

When building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, you should remember that this is not just a room where you can wash yourself. This building must have internal and external harmony, consistent style and a warm atmosphere. Due to its light weight, the frame bath does not require shrinkage; it can be erected at any time of the year. The use of advanced frame technology allows us to achieve structural reliability and long service life. Use the tips from the video review on how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide.

Construction of the foundation of a 3x6 frame bath with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Before building a frame bathhouse, you must first select a location for the structure and prepare the site. The site is cleared of trees, bushes, grass, and unnecessary debris and stones that may interfere with the correct marking of the territory are removed. If there is a slope or unevenness in the terrain, the site should be leveled: the hills should be cut off, and the excavations should be filled with soil to the required level. Markings for the foundation of the bathhouse are made using wooden pegs and a cord. All marking angles must be maintained and correspond to 90°. Usually, small structures frame baths can be installed without a foundation. However, if clay soils predominate on the site, it would be useful to arrange a strip base. To install the foundation, it is necessary to dig a ditch half a meter deep along the marking line, its width should be about 40 cm. Having installed the formwork, you should pour the foundation and place the pins in the soft solution to fix the strapping. After the concrete has set, they begin laying the strapping beam.

Helpful advice! Before assembling the structure, you need to make sure that the concrete is mature and dry: it is dried for 3-4 days, covered with polyethylene, then uncovered and kept for another couple of days.

The frame of the bathhouse, which plays a load-bearing role, is built from wooden beams that have undergone antiseptic treatment. The section of the beam is selected based on bearing capacity and the insulation used. It should be clarified that the layer of thermal insulation located between the racks should not exceed the thickness of the beam itself. For the lower and upper trim, as well as corner posts, timber with a larger cross-section is used than for intermediate supports. The strapping begins from the corner of the foundation, using a 10x10 cm beam. The connection of the strapping beam in the corners is done using the “paw” method and securely fixing it with nails. Previously installed pins will help to avoid displacement of the beam. Before laying the framing beam, the concrete surface of the base must be completely cut off with roofing felt. After this, 8 pieces of braces are placed in the corners.

Assembling the walls of the structure

It is more convenient to assemble the frame in an open area in the yard. Calculation of the pitch of the racks depends on the use of sheathing material. So that the sheathing sheets do not have to be adjusted and they form a dense wall, the pitch of the intermediate posts is taken to be 60 cm. This distance is also suitable for installing insulation: its standard width is approximately the same. The insulation will be located between the racks by surprise and will support itself. In places where, according to the design, openings will be located, the step can be increased by 35-40 cm. Where the frame will be adjacent to the lintels, it is necessary to install additional racks made of timber. In parallel with the installation of the racks, you can lay out the floor joists from a 15x5 cm board. All components of the frame are carefully assembled, leveled and connected. The space between vertical supports filled with thermal insulation material. For the external cladding of the frame, I most often use carriage boards. But you can also use other materials that the modern construction market offers: siding, block house, facing brick, thermal panels. However, a bathhouse lined with clapboard looks good and natural. The lining is installed in a horizontal orientation, having previously laid a waterproofing layer.

Many users post online photos of the stages of building a frame bathhouse with their own hands. Photo reports will help you visually familiarize yourself with the nuances of independent construction.

Insulation scheme for a frame bath

One of the important points in assembling a frame bath is its thermal insulation. Both the selection of material and its installation should be approached with all responsibility. Mineral wool can be used as insulation. This material is characterized by high vapor permeability, it is non-flammable and walls with such insulation “breathe”. This achieves the effect of a log bath. You can lay mineral fiber formed into slabs or rolls, but it is preferable to use the first option. Insulation boards are laid between the racks. If the sheets in the corners of the frame niche are deformed and do not fit tightly, it is necessary to straighten the sheets using a knife. The insulation must be in close contact with the wooden frame elements around the entire perimeter, as well as with each other.

Helpful advice! Experts recommend insulating a frame bath with two layers of 5 cm each: the first layer is made of insulation in slabs, the second is made of rolled material. Thus, all connecting lines will be blocked.

A layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation boards and the outer skin of the frame. For this you can use, for example, Tektoten film. The fact is that during operation, the open insulation is partially blown through the ventilation gap, which leads to a decrease in the thickness of the insulation and a deterioration in its thermal insulation properties. Laying wind-waterproofing protection from a vapor-permeable membrane will guarantee the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer. On the inside, a vapor barrier is made of polyethylene aluminum foil. The joints of the film are glued with tape, after which the interior finishing begins. The process of insulating the frame is quite labor-intensive and requires careful execution. If the technology is not maintained, mineral wool may shrink over time, which will affect the thermal insulation parameters of the entire structure. The video below will demonstrate in more detail the technology of structural insulation during the construction of a frame bath.

Roof arrangement

For a small bathhouse, a gable or hipped roof shape is suitable. Easier to implement - gable. The rafter system of such a roof is made of wooden beams 15x5 cm. For convenience and safety, all structural elements should be assembled on the ground. To avoid errors during assembly, it is recommended to make a layout, the shape of which will be repeated by all rafter elements. In order to make a model, you need to connect the upper ends of the two rafters with a nail. The lower edges of the rafter legs are placed and secured at the points where the supports are planned. The resulting figure is secured with a transverse jumper - a crossbar. The crossbar is connected to the rafter legs using screws. When all the roof trusses have been assembled, they begin installing them on site. The first step is to fix the front elements, between which a construction cord is pulled for reference. Its location will coincide with the line of the roof ridge. The remaining elements are mounted at its level. The pitch between trusses is usually 1.2 m, although it can be changed up or down.

Helpful advice! When taking the step of the rafter legs, it is necessary to take into account the location of the chimney. It should be centered between the rafters.

When installing each of the trusses, you should check the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. If there are deviations from the vertical, it is necessary to level their position by placing pieces of boards of appropriate thickness under the rafter leg. Next, they arrange the sheathing. If ondulin or other soft material is used as a roof covering, the distance between the sheathing elements should be no more than 1 cm. The roof is insulated with the materials used for the thermal insulation of the frame. The roof is covered with roofing material. The ridge is protected with a corner made of galvanized sheet or a factory-made element.

Floor construction and finishing

The peculiarity of bathhouse floors is that their design can be different depending on the purpose of the room in which they are installed. In rooms that are in direct contact with water, a pouring floor is installed. Its design consists of a flooring made of boards, between which gaps are left to allow drainage to pass into the ground. There is no need to insulate such floors. The construction of the floor of a frame bath begins with laying the logs. If the distance between support points is more than 3 m, it is recommended to erect support columns. In places where the lags come into contact with the strip base and posts, waterproofing from several layers of roofing material is used. Boards are mounted on the joists.

Helpful advice! In order to be able to dry the flooded floor, its floorboards are not fixed to the joists.

The boards in the poured floor structure are placed with a gap of 3 to 4 mm. The interval should also be between the flooring line and the bath wall (about 2 cm). If the soil under the building is sandy, you can limit yourself to filling a 25 cm layer of gravel. The distance from the surface of the gravel to the subfloor should be 10-12 cm. If the soil is clayey, it is necessary to build a tray from which water will be directed to the drainage pit. For recreation rooms, a floor with a “non-leakage” structure is installed. Its installation begins with a subfloor made of two rows of boards. A continuous flooring of pine boards is laid on top. At first they are simply baited. And only when all the interior finishing work is completed and the room is properly dried, the floor boards are finally adjusted and completely fixed. It should be noted that the floorboards should be located with a slope towards the point where wastewater is collected and discharged into the sewer. A hole is made at the lowest point of the wooden flooring and connected to the drain siphon. A non-leakage floor requires insulation, which is placed in front of the finishing coating.

Video: do-it-yourself frame baths from foundation to roof

For those who are faced with the construction of a frame bath for the first time, it is very important not only to familiarize themselves with the step-by-step installation instructions, but also to get a visual representation of all stages of construction. On the Internet you can find dozens of training videos on how to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. Video materials contain a lot of useful information and can become a kind of guide in the production of work. By studying the video instructions, you can learn about the installation features and types of foundation for the construction of a bathhouse, as well as the advisability of using one or another type of foundation. Here you can get answers to all your questions regarding piping, frame installation, roofing and equipping the bathhouse with one or another heating equipment. Watching video tutorials will help you learn useful recommendations regarding the use of insulation material and its installation. After all, the main thing for a bathhouse is heat, which must be retained inside the structure. Professional advice will help you correctly distribute and install insulation depending on the seasonal use of the bathhouse, which will affect the durability and appearance of the structure.

Many videos are devoted to the finishing section of a frame bath. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of various materials for decoration. Consultations with experienced craftsmen will reveal the features and performance properties of each type of material. Practical advice from those who have built and used their own frame bathhouse will also be useful. Although construction using frame technology is not particularly complicated, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic recommendations. Some videos contain information about the most common mistakes when building a bathhouse. Reviewing the material will help you avoid them in the future. This will guarantee the rapid construction of a reliable and durable structure.

Layout

Foundation

Bottom trim and subfloors

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

Rafters

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Installation of metal tiles

Installation of a drainage system

Bathroom wall cladding

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Ebb tides for the base

Installation of lining

Window

Door

Bath ceiling

Wiring

Sewerage

Prices for refractory bricks

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

Laying tiles

Laminate

Walls

Laying tiles

Lining - installation

Shelves in the steam room

Interior doors

Plumbing

Basement siding

Blind area

Finishing touches

What you need to know about protective materials?

Preparing the bottom trim

Construction of walls of a frame bath

Finishing

Construction options

Preliminary work: planning and material selection

Foundation

Walling

Roof arrangement

The finishing touches. Interior decoration

Let's summarize

Advantages of frame technology

Weaknesses of frame baths, reviews from owners

DIY frame bath projects. Photos of the best buildings

Projects, photos of do-it-yourself frame baths 3x4, 4x4 m

Projects of 6x6 frame baths with an attic

Insulation scheme for a frame bath

Roof arrangement

Floor construction and finishing

Video: do-it-yourself frame baths from foundation to roof

Advantages and disadvantages of frame baths, reviews from owners

Advantages of frame technology

Weaknesses of frame baths, reviews from owners

DIY frame bath projects. Photos of the best buildings

Projects, photos of do-it-yourself frame baths 3x4, 4x4 m

Projects of 6x6 frame baths with an attic

Assembly of frame-panel baths: projects and prices

Projects of frame-panel baths

Price of a turnkey frame-panel bath

Purchasing turnkey frame baths: projects and prices of structures

Where to buy a house kit for a small frame bath

Do-it-yourself frame bath: step-by-step construction instructions

Construction of the foundation of a 3x6 frame bath with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Assembling the walls of the structure

Insulation scheme for a frame bath

Roof arrangement

Floor construction and finishing

Video: do-it-yourself frame baths from foundation to roof

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