After building the foundation, building the cellar and inspection hole in the garage you can start laying the garage walls.

For laying garage walls, you can use red or silicate (white) brick, rubble, monolithic concrete, natural stone, reinforced concrete wall slabs or other materials. Among all this variety, the most common material for constructing garage walls is red brick. Brick walls have a number of advantages: strength, fire resistance, etc. Naturally, there are also disadvantages, for example, brick has high thermal conductivity and strong moisture absorption, so such walls have to be insulated and waterproofed.

Solid brick walls of a garage can be erected from either hollow, porous or ordinary solid brick. Just like with any other brickwork, the lower rows of the masonry are first protected from moisture penetration from the foundation.

First, apply on top of the foundation thin layer cement mortar, on which the roll is laid waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt (its joints need to be well overlapped and alternated). Next again comes a thin layer of mortar, along which the first row of bricks is laid.

The thickness of the brick walls of the garage can vary from 0.5 bricks to 2.5 - 3 bricks. The most optimal is a laying of 1.5 bricks. But, for example, when laying the walls of a garage in 1 brick, you should know that thickenings are made in the wall from time to time: thus, its strength increases.

When laying walls, you can save a little on installing a garage door (there is no need for a massive gate socket); on the side where you plan to make a gate, two brick pillars with embedded mortgages are placed on which the gate will be hung in the future (example in Fig. . below).

How to determine required thickness garage walls? For this you will need the value maximum temperature outside air during the coldest time of the year and the strength of the wind prevailing in your area. Using long-term calculations, which show that a wall of one brick and a height of just over 2 m successfully resists wind forces of 15-14 m/s.

A wall with a thickness of 2 bricks and a height of 2.5 m is already capable of withstanding a hurricane with a wind force of up to 45 m/s for quite a long time. If your garage design includes higher walls, then it is best to opt for a wall 1.5 bricks thick. Such a wall, 2.35 m high, can withstand wind pressure of up to 28 m/s, which corresponds to a storm.

If the maximum winter temperatures in your region does not exceed 20-22 °C below zero, then the thickness of the garage walls is 1 brick, if lower, then 1.5-2.0 bricks.

Learn more about the methods of laying brick walls and installing lintels over door and window openings We talked about it in articles.

Construction of garage walls with a basement

As we have said many times, walls that have basement part, are reliably protected from moisture and moisture penetration into the lower part of the building.

The wall base, as a rule, rises 25–75 cm above the foundation. The wall base can be made of brick (only red brick is used for this), rubble stone or rubble concrete. To build the plinth of walls made of brick or rubble stone, the masonry is carried out as usual. When using rubble concrete, formwork is first made (you can use boards or slabs), into which the rubble concrete is then laid in layers of 20–35 cm.

The highest quality and best option The masonry of the plinth is rubble masonry with simultaneous lining with red brick.

The wall base should have the same width as strip foundation. Walls and top part the base is leveled using a building level.

You also need to take care of. To do this, ventilation windows measuring 10 x 15 cm are made in the base (between the floor and the ground) at a height of approximately 15-20 cm, which are closed with a grille in warm weather, and with a wooden plug in winter.

It is made while the concrete of the strip foundation hardens. Formwork is best assembled from panels made of edged boards 40-50 mm thick. It is highly undesirable for the shields to have gaps. If the panels are made without obvious defects, then the surface of the base will be even and smooth and there will be no need to plaster the surface of the base.

Since we are building a garage, there is no need to build a high base. After all, we will have to build a road to the entrance to the garage raised on the plinth. Which will lead to additional labor costs and financial costs.

Therefore, you need to take care of this in advance: either make the base lower or select soil from the trench and cellar in advance for the site of the intended entrance to the garage. This will save you a lot of time and effort.

To determine the size of future shields, you can use the following formula:

the distance between the center lines of the base is designated as - l1 and l2; base width – C; thickness of boards for shields – t,

Then the lengths of two pairs of parallel panels on the outside surface of the base will be respectively:

L1 = l1 + C + 2t And L3 = l2 + C.

In the same way, you can determine the lengths of the shields for the inner side surface of the base using the following formula:

L3 = l1 – C And L4 = l2 – C – 2t.

The boards should be placed in such a way that they are clean and smooth side the boards faced the inside of the base. For their precise installation, you can use bars required length, which are inserted inside the formwork at the top and bottom. The shields are fixed using wooden strips of linings, which are nailed to the shields diagonally. In this case, the height of the shields should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.

For more precise assembly of panels and ease of handling, locks are nailed on the outside of shortened internal and external panels. With their help, it is much easier and more accurate to assemble panels into formwork, which greatly simplifies the work process. The locks are attached at a distance equal to the thickness of the boards, starting from the vertical cut of the shield.

When installing formwork, a small opening should be provided in one of the walls of the basement to create a hole into the basement, since sooner or later there will be a need to repair it.

It is also necessary to provide ventilation holes. To do this, it is enough to install in the base wooden block with a cross section of 15 x 15 cm, wrapping it with two layers of roofing material. They are installed before pouring concrete. Thanks to this, the bars can be easily removed in warm weather and, when cold weather arrives, placed back into the hole, thereby blocking access to cold air.

Construction of walls from other materials

As we have already said, in addition to brick, garage walls can be made of other materials, such as ceramic stones, concrete blocks, monolithic concrete, rubble stone, etc.

Garage walls made of ceramic stones of regular shape

Walls made from this material are laid according to the same rules that apply to brickwork.

Also, if the height of the ceramic stones is 13.8 cm, backfill in the usual way does not seem possible. Therefore, the stones prepared for laying the backfill are laid out on the surface of the wall as close to each other as possible, that is, close to each other. Next, they are covered with concrete mortar, which flows into the voids and is then thoroughly smoothed with a trowel. Next, the stone with the mortar applied to it is pressed against the previously laid stones.

For masonry, you can also use a less mobile mortar, due to which it does not flow onto the front surface of the wall and does not pollute it.

Too liquid concrete mortar will flow into the voids of the stone, which will lead to an increase in the consumption of the solution and a deterioration in the thermal properties of the ceramic hollow stone, and it will be very difficult to maintain the evenness of the seam.

Garage walls made of concrete blocks

When laying walls of small concrete blocks, the transverse vertical joints in adjacent rows are shifted by 0.5 stone or 0.25 stone. The dressing is performed in the form of laying a splice row (example in Fig. 174) every two laid spoon rows.

You can also use a splice dressing through each laid row of spoons.

Rice. 174. Performing a three-row dressing of 390 mm thick corner masonry using concrete stones

In a wall made of hollow ceramic or small concrete blocks, the thickness masonry joints should be the same as with brickwork, that is, the horizontal joint should have a thickness of about 12 mm, and the vertical joint should be 10 mm thick.

Construction of a garage

Garage walls made of natural stones of irregular shape

The reason for the construction stone structures there can be many, for example, due to aesthetic considerations or the banal lack of brick, ceramic or concrete blocks, natural stone is used in the construction of a garage.

Natural stones may have an irregular or bedded shape (preferable during construction). Masonry from natural stone It's called rubble. You can use rubble to lay out both the foundation and the walls.

You can also watch a video on how to lay natural stone:

How to lay savage stone - laying granite stone

To build a strong and reliable garage from blocks with your own hands, you should decide on the type of material. The construction itself has undeniable advantages and is implemented in the shortest possible time. Wall blocks are an affordable and cost-effective material, but what should you choose to build a garage?

Choosing concrete wall blocks, you can count on a cheaper cost compared to brick, that is, such construction is more economically profitable. A block measuring 390*190*190 mm replaces five one-and-a-half silicate bricks 250*120*88 mm. If we turn to red ceramic brick, the savings become even more significant. With identical dimensions, its price is several times higher than that of sand-lime brick.

Most blocks are produced with technological voids, which reduces their weight and reduces the load on the supporting base. Depending on what kind of garage project is to be implemented, simpler solutions can be used during installation.

For construction from light blocks you can mix B7.5 class concrete yourself using recycled crushed stone. This will be more economical compared to purchasing ready-made concrete and paying for delivery to the work site with a mixer.

The master has the right to choose any block based on its technical characteristics.

If desired, you can build:

• garage made of foam blocks with your own hands, video;
• you can build a garage from cinder blocks with your own hands;
• garage made of gas silicate blocks, etc.

Practical experience

In practice, an excellent material for construction separately standing garage sawdust concrete appears. Firstly, this is a more accessible material, based on financial costs.

If you compare the cost of one module, you can see the following price range:

• sand concrete with sawdust 390*190*190 – 55 r/piece;
• aerated concrete/gas silicate 200*300*600 – 90 RUR/piece;
• expanded clay concrete 390*190*190 – 52 r/piece;
• foam block 390*190*190 – 49 r/piece;
• sawdust concrete 390*190*190 – 47 r/piece.

Use of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks

The material is very light, warm and fits perfectly for the construction of low-rise buildings and works effectively in combination with brickwork. However, the majority of garages are cold rooms and are not heated, so the benefits of high thermal insulation lose relevance. Other block types – sawdust concrete, expanded clay concrete - also have decent thermal insulation properties, but are stronger.

When choosing a gate, you should pay attention to products with a wicket. This is more convenient than monolithic doors and eliminates the need for an additional entrance

Other features of the use of the material are revealed as follows:

• aerated block and foam block have a porous structure, which forces the implementation finishing in the near future after completion of construction;
• when constructing a garage from blocks, reinforcement of each third or fourth row of masonry will be required;
• It is possible to use special glue, but this is relevant for warm, heated rooms where it is necessary to reduce cold bridges. If the garage is cold, cold bridges are not so important;
• An armored belt needs to be installed on top of the walls. Masonry ceiling beams(on gable roof) or rafters (on a lean-to) on a gas block/foam block is impossible. Such a point load may cause the module to collapse. You will need a Mauerlat;
• problems may arise when arranging the gate fasteners. The craftsman will have to use reinforced “strapping”, otherwise the shutters will become loose over time and require repair, especially if they are made of thick sheet steel;
• often in such garages, in the place where the gate will be fixed, at the masonry stage, brick pillars, but that's just extra hassle that can be avoided.

Using other block types

If you build from cinder blocks or build a garage from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, some points inherent in cellular concrete disappear by themselves. In most cases, you can refuse to use masonry mesh, since the material is durable. In practice, you can neglect the construction of the armored belt by resorting to a little trick.

The essence of the construction trick is as follows:

• the slot block is laid with the holes down, and the solution for the next row is placed on the solid part;
• in order not to mount an armored belt and not to build formwork, the top row is laid out with the holes facing up;
• voids are filled with rubble and cement-sand mortar high strength;
• the result is a concreted structure;
• for reinforcement, you can lay a masonry mesh along the top row and make a cement screed.

The top row will become solid and will support the weight of the future roof. If necessary, the Mauerlat is securely attached to such blocks. In an identical way, you can strengthen the part of the structure where the gate will be fixed.

Sand is used for construction. Its volume is calculated taking into account the filling of the foundation and the filling of the floor.

Attention to the base

Whatever modules are chosen for construction, it is best if the base (the first 4-5 rows) is made of solid red brick. Such manipulations will allow you to “kick out zero,” as masons say. If the craftsman’s skills are developed in a different direction, you can set the formwork to the required height and pour concrete.

• a waterproofing layer is laid on top of the base;
• the simplest, time-tested insulation is roofing felt;
• the material is cut into strips and overlapped by 15 cm;
• It is recommended to build a blind area around the foundation, otherwise in five years the garage may crack.

A word about exterior decoration

It’s good to at least plaster any block, protecting the walls. It is better to finish a garage built from gas silicate blocks with your own hands (as well as from a foam block) right away. Sand cement and expanded clay are more resistant to frost and dampness, so such a building will easily stand for several years without finishing.

Do-it-yourself garage made of foam blocks

It is advisable to use a foam block when it is necessary to attach a warm garage to an already in use facility.

Any construction works starts with laying the foundation. If the soil is stable and not heaving, there is no point in spending money on deep foundation. All that is required is no more than 60 cm of penetration into the ground, filling and compacting a 20 cm sand cushion, and installation of a reinforcement frame.

If the soil is dense, the solution can be laid spontaneously, without formwork; it will only be needed to fill a 20-30 cm grillage. The trench is dug 20 cm wider than the thickness of the wall, which subsequently compensates for soil pressure.

The foundation must be reinforced

The master may prefer one of the following options:

• lightweight pile-strip foundation;
• shallow belt base on a sand cushion.

When the option is chosen and concrete is poured, the base must gain strength - which will take about 14 days. Next, waterproofing is applied (roofing felt or bitumen mastic coating).

• digging a trench under shallow foundation, wells are drilled around the perimeter - at each angle and under the walls in increments of 1.2 m;
• the depth of the wells must exceed the mark of seasonal soil freezing, the diameter must be at least 1/3 of the width of the grillage;
• for work you can use a hand or motor drill;
• three steel rods are placed in each hole, the ends of which should go into the grillage and a piece of roofing material rolled into a pipe;
• further progress of work is subject to general principles.

Wall masonry

For the construction of a garage, it is optimal to use a module of 20*30*60 cm, with a density of 600-800 kg/m³. For masonry, it is advisable to use a cement-sand mortar with the addition of perlite, which will create a “warm joint”.

The solution is mixed like this:

• sand – 2 hours;
• perlite – 1 hour;
• cement – ​​1 hour;
• water - the volume is adjusted on site. The solution should reach the consistency of thick sour cream.

Further sequence of actions:

• The first row is laid out on a solution of 2-3 cm, which will allow the modules to “find their place” and eliminate the risk of cracking from point loads;
• every third row is placed with a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass or galvanized steel;
• the gates are installed with temporary struts, according to the markings after checking the vertical and horizontal;
• the technology uses ligation of seams, otherwise the structure will not be strong;
• Having driven the walls under the ceilings and installed an armored belt, work should be interrupted for 48 hours so that the solution gains strength;
• further work is carried out based on what the structure will be covered with, such as floors, roofs (attic, lean-to on wooden beams, hipped gable).

Estimated construction costs will be 180 tr.. To optimize costs, it is recommended to calculate the number of blocks.

How to build a garage from foam blocks with your own hands is shown in the video:

This article is a detailed instruction on how to build an unheated capital garage for 1 parking space. Construction will conditionally be carried out next to the cottage, in a fenced area.

To save costs as wall material We will choose reinforced sand-lime brick with a thickness of 250 mm.

Choosing the size of the future garage

When starting to build a garage with your own hands, you should decide on the size of the future building. Typically, the footage is determined in relation to the dimensions of a standard passenger car - 1.7-2 m by 3-4 m. In this case, you should also take into account the reserve of space so that you can easily walk around the car from all sides, and also the footage should allow the arrangement of racks, on where spare parts, wheels and cans will be stored. That is, taking into account the above needs, optimal size The garage will be 4x6 meters and its height will be 2.5 m. The project takes into account the possibility of changing a car without rebuilding the garage for this. We will design two windows in one of the side walls meter width, to provide natural light.

Schematically, a self-built garage will look like this:

Determining the location for construction

When choosing a place where your future garage will be located, you should pay attention to some important points, which will help simplify operation and protect you from problems with getting your car in and out, opening garage doors, etc.

The location must be chosen as close to the yard gate as possible. At the same time, try to leave 4-5 meters of distance between the garage and the gate, so that the car can simply be left in the yard, and so that the opening of the gate is not blocked upon arrival;

The path from the entrance gate to the garage should be straight, without turns. This will make it easier to park in the yard and enter the car into the garage;

The distance from the garage to the home should ideally be 5-7 meters so that you can quickly get to the porch of the house during rain or snowfall;

When planning to build a garage with your own hands, and when choosing a place for it, make sure that the future building is not located in a low area, otherwise it will drain rainwater, which will lead to dampness and corrosion on the metal parts of the car;

House communications (electricity networks, sewerage, gas pipelines) should not pass under the garage.

We present to your attention a general plan of the site with the optimal placement of the garage relative to the entrance gate to the yard and the cottage:

Garage foundation

Before you build a garage, you need to lay a high-quality foundation for it. In our case, we will consider a strip foundation with a strip width of 300 mm. Since the garage will be low, the load of the walls transferred to the foundation will also be small (about 1.5 tons per 1 linear meter). In order to economize Consumables, you can equip a shallow foundation (depth - 60 cm) on sand and gravel bed 30 cm thick. A pillow under the foundation is necessary to properly distribute the pressure of the garage on the ground and prevent the floor from swelling in cold weather.

This is what our foundation will look like in section:

The finished foundation should be 100 mm higher than the ground level, for which board formwork is laid. The sequence of work on arranging the foundation for a garage built by yourself is as follows:

The selected area is cleared of bushes, debris and other foreign objects;

The future garage is measured according to the site, and its axes are taken to scale;

A trench with smooth walls, 300 mm wide, is dug (this soil will later be used as the formwork for the future foundation). Fixed along garage walls polyethylene film to prevent water from leaking out of the concrete solution;

The sand and gravel preparation is laid in layers: every 100 mm is compacted and watered;

The foundation is concreted. For this purpose, concrete of classes B15-B20 is used, which should be compacted by vibration;

When the concrete strength reaches 70%, waterproofing can be laid, consisting of 2 layers of roofing material (the entire perimeter of the foundation is covered).

Laying garage walls

If you decide to build a permanent garage with your own hands, take especially seriously the laying of walls, which is the most important stage construction. As already mentioned, the walls of our garage are built from reinforced sand-lime bricks 250 mm thick (one brick laying). We will choose the brand of brick M-100, and we will lay it on a cement-sand mortar M-75.

To reinforce the walls we use wire mesh of class VR-1, with a diameter of 3-5 mm (cell 50x50 mm). Reinforcement is necessary not only to give strength to the brickwork, but also to protect the garage from burglars.

It is better to lay out the first 4-5 rows of masonry from clay brick, thus creating a reliable and durable base for the future garage. For one square meter a wall one brick thick will require 100 bricks and 75 liters of mortar.

Experts recommend inviting a professional mason for this stage of work, if you have such an opportunity. Professional masonry guarantees that in the future no cracks will appear inside it, and the walls themselves will be strictly vertical and laid in accordance with the dimensions of the garage according to the project.

If you still decide to completely build a garage yourself, be sure to use these tips:

The seams of the masonry must be tied, for which the brick will need to be cut in half in some places;

Keep the joint width to 10-12 mm;

When the foundation is ready, a leveling layer of mortar will need to be laid around its perimeter so that the brick can be easily laid vertically. First, to do this, you should strengthen the slats on both sides of the foundation in a strictly horizontal position - these slats will serve as formwork. The horizontal position of the slats is checked using a level. Then the solution is poured between the slats and carefully leveled.

After this, in each of the four corners of the garage you need to install so-called “orders” - vertical wooden slats with divisions marked every 77 mm showing the height of each course of brick. A thread is stretched between the rows to check horizontality. brickwork.

The laying itself must begin from the corners of the garage, lining up 10 corners - thus, at each of the corners you will receive a “beacon” that will be easier to navigate.

Each brick must be moistened with water before laying, which will ensure better adhesion of the brick to the mortar;

Try to pay attention to the external beauty and neatness of the external seams facing the facade - it is better to lay masonry here with jointing;

The top of the side walls assumes a slope (along facade B in the figure), so that as a result the roof is located under the slope, from which rainwater will easily drain. The difference between the extreme points is 300 mm;

You should also leave nests for laying roof beams. The size of these nests should be 200x200x150 mm, and their pitch should be 1 meter;

To cover window and entrance bays, you need to use a factory-made reinforced concrete lintel or metal jumper from two corners measuring 100x100x7 mm;

To check the verticality and horizontality of the walls, use a level and plumb line;

Create a hole in the back wall of the garage for natural ventilation. The hole should be covered with a louvered grille, and its size should be about 200x200 mm.

Garage floor and blind area

Every car owner who has asked the question “how to build a garage” should take care of the quality of the building’s floor. The garage floor must easily withstand the load from the wheels of the car, without settling or cracking. As mentioned above, the floor level should be 100 mm above ground level. Most often, the floor in garages is made of cement or concrete. We will consider installing a floor made of B-15 concrete with fine aggregate, 150 mm thick. Concrete is reinforced with A-1 reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm; reinforcement pitch - 200x200 mm. The garage floor should slope slightly towards the door to allow water to drain away.

Before pouring the floor, you should compact the soil and spread it over it. crushed stone cushion 200 mm thick, the bottom layer of which is best compacted into the ground. To ensure that the floor is separated from the walls and lies freely on the ground, foam plastic 50 mm thick is laid around the perimeter of the walls. Then a polyethylene film is laid, and on it is a reinforcing mesh with a preserved protective layer of at least 40 mm. After this, concrete is placed on the grid and vibrated. After 5-7 days, when the concrete has set, it is necessary to cement-sand screed 50 mm thick to level the floor surface.

Along the entire perimeter of the garage outside done concrete blind area so that rainwater does not damage the foundation. Sufficient width of the blind area is 500-700 mm. It is made of B-7.5 concrete laid on a sand bed. A ramp is equipped on the facade with a gate - an inclined platform for convenient entry into the garage of cars, wheelchairs and baby strollers. The width of the ramp, depending on the general terrain, can range from 500 to 1200 mm.

We install a garage roof

The most economical option for arranging the roof will be wooden beams section 150x100 mm (beam pitch - 1 meter) and profiled sheet. Common beam materials are spruce, pine or larch, and a garage beam roof looks like this:

Beams 4.3 meters long are laid in nests left in advance during laying. All beams rest on the walls 150 mm at each end.

The ends of the beams are wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt so that moisture from the brickwork does not spoil the beam and cause rotting. The beam ends are not covered with roofing paper. After installation, the distance between the wall and the beam is sealed with a cement mortar with fine crushed stone. It is necessary to leave a space of about 50 mm between the ends of the beams and the walls.

Roofing felt is laid along the slope of the garage roof (the slope, as mentioned above, is arranged using different levels of masonry with a difference of 4 rows of bricks). Sheets of roofing felt are fused one on top of the other using a burner (the overlap of the sheets is 10-20 cm). Steel profiled sheets are laid on top, and the direction of the “waves” should go along the longer wall of the garage. The sheets are nailed down, and in the places where they are joined, an overlap of 2-3 “waves” in width must be made.

At the end of the work, make canopies (outlets) from corrugated sheeting that extend beyond the plane of the wall by 20-30 cm, which will help protect the garage walls from precipitation.

Window units and garage doors

To equip window and door openings quality windows and gates, it is better to contact the relevant companies. Measure your openings and contact several garage door and window installation companies in your area to compare rates. Be sure to discuss with the contractor the technology for installing garage doors - whether you will need to leave the mortgages, or whether they will be fastened in place. In addition, get advice on choosing a lock - mortise, overhead or padlock.

Garage finishing and finishing touches

To Brick wall was protected better, it is necessary to carry out Finishing work. The garage walls are plastered along a notch or chain-link mesh with cement-sand mortar. Plaster will level the surface of the walls and protect the brick from destructive mechanical influences.

As for the racks and shelves that you will need to store canisters, spare parts and wheels - you can buy them at a construction supermarket or make them yourself from wood, having previously carried out necessary measurements. Of course, these works are not mandatory, but in the future convenient shelves and shelving will make your work in the garage much easier.

Power supply for various devices and lighting is usually diverted to the garage from the residential building.

Read more materials about DIY construction and repairs in our constantly updated section

A garage is a necessity for any car owner, both protection and security. In this article we will tell you how to choose concrete garage, build it yourself, consider the types, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of concrete garages.

Types of concrete garages, their pros and cons

A garage made of concrete or reinforced concrete slabs is the most reliable place to store and maintain a car. The building can be erected with your own hands, it will not take much time, and besides, it is a relatively inexpensive construction.

The buildings are divided into:

• Prefabricated reinforced concrete buildings , which are built from blocks or wall panels and floor slabs. You can purchase ready-made sets of garage slabs; they have lighter, but no less reliable designs.

Such buildings are erected in a short time; if necessary, they are quickly dismantled and transported to a new location. Nowadays, many companies offer to purchase a concrete garage with installation by the company’s specialists; in this case, installation is carried out within a few hours.

Today, manufacturers offer factory-cast ones into a single design. Such a garage is delivered to the installation site and firmly mounted on the foundation.

But the size of monolithic garages is limited by transportation; moreover, dismantling it is impossible and transportation is difficult, but such a structure is installed quickly - in a couple of hours you have a full-fledged, reliable garage, almost ready for use.

• Monolithic reinforced concrete buildings erected from concrete poured into reinforced formwork. The work is carried out using a small concrete mixer: for the construction of a standard garage, a machine with a capacity of 0.5–1 m3 will be sufficient.

A monolithic concrete garage is quite reliable; it can be built of any size, shape and configuration. For reasons of economy, instead of ASG, you can use slag or foam concrete, the price of which is lower, and besides, such walls will retain heat better.

Advantages of a concrete garage

So:

• Reliability. The walls of the garage will protect the car from atmospheric exposure and outside penetration.
• Durability. The garage will last for decades, as it is built once and almost forever.
• Environmental friendliness. All materials used do not contain substances hazardous to human life and health.
• Frost resistance. Concrete is not subject to destruction from exposure to low temperatures.
• Fire resistance. The material is not afraid high temperature and retains its performance properties even in contact with open fire.

Disadvantages of a concrete garage

A properly built garage has virtually no drawbacks, except that it requires insulation and heating of the room (see). Temperature in winter period the garage will be only a few degrees higher than outside, so for a comfortable stay in it it is necessary to install heating.

A garage made of foam concrete will require protecting the walls from moisture penetration, you will have to do external finishing buildings (see). Prefabricated garage from concrete panels limited in size, construction requires the use of equipment, and if the elements are connected by welding, then specialists.

Stages of the garage construction process

Let's start with the fact that any work begins with a project that indicates the dimensions of the building, necessary materials and their number, the location of the building on the ground, that is, all the necessary parameters.

You can make a concrete garage project yourself or order it from a specialized organization. Competent specialists will analyze the soil, determine the depth of freezing and occurrence groundwater, which is important in the case of constructing a basement or workshop under the garage. Installation of concrete garages is carried out on a leveled base, free from fertile soil, garbage, covered with a layer of sand or small gravel and carefully compacted.

Foundation

Shallow strip foundation for a garage

So:

• Monolithic or prefab garage without a basement they are placed at a height of 40–60 cm and a width of 25–30 cm.
• Reinforcement is carried out with reinforcement with a diameter of 12–14 mm.
• The tape should protrude above the ground by at least 10 cm.
• The surface of the foundation is waterproofed with a layer of roofing material or other rolled material to cut off moisture from the walls.

Walling

A monolithic, reinforced garage is built using formwork; it is placed on a foundation with a distance between elements equal to the thickness of the walls.

If there is no factory formwork, then you can use various available materials:

• Plywood.
• Boards.
• Metal sheets.

The formwork is secured with bolts or studs for easy disassembly and subsequent assembly of the structure. The walls are reinforced with a spatial frame or individual rods. Particular attention is paid to the corners of the building.

Concrete is poured in layers (each layer no more than 50 cm thick), carefully vibrated to release excess air. Otherwise, voids and cavities may form in the walls, which will weaken the building and deprive the surface of its aesthetics.

As the concrete hardens, a row of formwork is removed and fixed higher, arranging next row. Last layer level, measure the horizontal level for correct installation floor panels. After removing the formwork, the seams between the layers should be freed from concrete leaks, leveled and plastered.

The prefabricated concrete garage is assembled like a designer on a prepared foundation using a truck crane. The elements are connected by brackets, bolts or welding. Included in the package detailed instructions according to the assembly, which must be carefully checked and the slabs installed in the specified order.

The seams between the panels and connecting elements are embossed with cement mortar.

Roof

Let's talk about some of the nuances that need to be paid to Special attention when installing the roof.

Gable garage roof covered with corrugated sheets

So:

• Monolithic garage is covered reinforced concrete slabs, and it is necessary to take into account the material of the walls and the area of ​​​​the garage.
• If the walls are made of concrete, then solid covering panels can be laid.
• For weaker walls, hollow slabs are used. For example, a 6 by 6 garage made of foam concrete simply cannot withstand the weight monolithic slab, the wall material under pressure will gradually begin to weaken, and there may be a risk of roof collapse.
• The panels are mounted on cement mortar.
• The slabs are laid with a slope of at least 3% to allow water to drain.
• The gaps between the roof panels and the locations of the mounting loops are sealed with mortar or filled with foam (the excess of which is cut off after setting); the surface of the slabs, if necessary, is leveled with a screed.
• Before the beginning roofing works the roof is dried and dusted.
• The panels are covered with rolled material: roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL, etc. The work is carried out in accordance with the instructions for laying fused roofing coverings.
• Alternatively, the roof can be covered with ondulin, soft tiles(see), corrugated sheets and other roofing materials.

Garage floor

Both in a monolithic garage and in a prefabricated one (if the floor slab is not included in the kit), flooring poured using the following technology.

• The base is leveled and compacted well
• A layer of sand or fine gravel 10 cm thick is laid and also compacted tightly.
• Waterproofing is laid, the role of which will be perfectly performed by two layers of film, roofing felt, TechnoNIKOL and others roll materials. The edges of the material extend 15 cm onto the wall.
• If a concrete garage is equipped with heating in the future, then it would be rational to insulate the floor so that the heat is not wasted and your feet do not get cold. Insulation is placed over the waterproofing - polystyrene foam, mineral wool And so on.
• To strengthen the coating and protect it from destruction and cracking, a reinforcing mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 14 mm and a pitch of 10–15 cm is installed.

Important! The mesh reinforcement must be protected by concrete on all sides. To do this, “legs” are attached to the mesh on the bottom side, which will allow the mixture to penetrate under the reinforcement. Protective layer made at least 3 cm thick.

• Compensation gaps are installed along the walls and around protruding structures; for their construction, foam plastic 5 cm thick can be used.
• Concrete is poured with a slope of 2-3% directed towards the gate. The thickness of the coating varies between 7–15 cm and depends on the requirements for the floor.
• To make the base strong and monolithic, it is recommended to lay the mixture at one time.

• After the concrete has completely set, you can begin additional decorative finishing floor: cover polymer composition(see), paint on concrete, lay tiles or make a self-leveling floor. The main thing is that the surface is non-slip.

Garage door

Function performed garage doors, consists of protecting the doorway from entry by unauthorized persons and theft of the car, as well as preserving heat in winter time. Therefore, they must be durable, reliable, safe for the owner, tightly closed and easy to open.

Several types of gates are installed in a concrete garage:

• Recoil.
• Swing.
• Lift-and-swivel.
• Roller shutters.
• Sectional.

Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. If the garage is located in a garage cooperative or in a country house, then ordinary swing gates, as the simplest, proven and reliable option.

All other types are appropriate near the house when the garage is being monitored, as they have poor resistance to breaking and entering.

Conclusion

We told you step by step what types of work will have to be done when installing or building a concrete garage. If the chain “project – garage – concrete” is followed correctly and consistently, all recommendations and instructions are carefully followed, then as a result you will receive a reliable, durable shelter for your car.

Thematic photos and videos presented in this article will clearly demonstrate some of the nuances of construction and help you understand complex issues.