In private houses and apartments, a popular way of arranging the floor is considered to be a structure on logs. This method is quite universal, it allows you to insulate and level the base. However, its design can vary greatly depending on the floor, type of building ( a private house or apartment), the presence of a warm basement, etc.

In this article we will look at several options for laying a wooden floor cake.

Floor frame

First, let's study the main constituent elements and main rules:

• The underground space from the pads to the floorboard must be at least 1 cm (and no more than 25 cm for floors on the ground). This is necessary for good ventilation inside the frame.
• Lags- These are transverse bars that serve as the basis for further cladding with boards. They can rest on beams, a concrete slab, posts, and even on the ground (when using pads).

Note! According to GOST 8486-86, unplaned boards treated with an antiseptic from coniferous or hardwood wood other than linden or poplar. Wood moisture content should not exceed 18%.

• The width of the logs when laid on a slab should be in the range of 80-100 mm and 100-120 mm when laid on posts or beams. The thickness when laid on a slab should be 25-40 mm, and when laid on posts - 40-50 mm.
• Beams- these are horizontally laid structural elements, which perform load-bearing functions. They are supported at least at two points on load-bearing walls.
• Columns(linings) are used to level the base. For logs with a thickness of 40-50 mm, linings are installed every 80-110 cm.
• The pitch of laying the logs depends on the thickness of the sheathing. For example, if you use the thinnest floorboard 21 mm, then the step of laying the logs should not exceed 30 cm.
• It is best to use a thicker floorboard 35 mm, and make a standard laying step of 60 cm, especially if you are going to insulate the base. This way you won't have to cut the insulation to width.

Installation technology

If the base is uneven, then it can be leveled using a backfill of sand with a moisture content of less than 4%.

Installation of logs

• Most often, logs are installed perpendicular to the light from the window, so that the boards then lie along it. This will make the gaps between the boards less visible.
• First of all, install the outer joists with a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. Then intermediate logs are installed.
• The logs are laid on the base without rigid fastening. Their evenness is checked using a level and a 2-meter rod. They all must be in the same plane. In this case, leveling with wooden pads or wedges is not recommended, but adding sand under the waterproofing is acceptable.
• To increase the rigidity of the structure, the logs are connected to each other by wooden jumpers, which are attached to galvanized 4*4 corners.

Note! It is imperative to install an additional joist in the doorway so that it protrudes into each room by at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that the boards from adjacent rooms rest on one base.

Insulating layers

• If laying takes place on a concrete slab, it is imperative to use a waterproofing layer, especially if the screed is new. For this purpose, roofing material is used, plastic film, backfill types of waterproofing. They are laid in a continuous sealed layer, with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.
• To increase sound insulation and reduce the transmission of vibration noise through floors, it is recommended to install logs on soundproofing pads. You can make them yourself from polyurethane, cork backing, soft fiberboard.
• To insulate the floor, a layer of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be laid between the joists. Also mineral wool also gives a soundproofing effect. Unlike concrete screed, it is not necessary to use insulation with high density, since there will be no load on them.
• For additional protection to prevent noise transmission through the structure, before installing the sheathing, a cork backing can be laid on the joists.
• If you use mineral wool, then it must be covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane, such as glassine. This is necessary to protect against moisture ingress and condensation removal. It is secured as the boards are laid on the joists using a stapler.
• After installation there is no vapor barrier left under the boards ventilation gap, therefore, it is recommended to screw a counter-lattice made of boards at least 1 cm thick onto the logs on top of it. batten.

Finished flooring

• As the last layer, most often, its price is approximately 13,500 rubles per cubic meter.
• To save money, you can use an unplaned board, but you will have to trim and process it yourself.
• Also a good alternative is thick plywood or OSB sheets. For floor coverings, their thickness should be 15-21 mm.

The simplest and most common way is to install wooden logs on concrete base in the apartment.

• The main feature of a wooden floor in an apartment is the absence of an additional subfloor. Here a concrete slab is used instead.
• The base of the floor in apartments is warm, so insulation is rarely used here, but sound insulation is required.

Pie of wooden floor for an apartment with sound insulation:

• Concrete slab leveled with sand;
• Waterproofing;
• Noise-reducing pads;
• Wooden logs;
• Mineral wool;
• Vapor barrier;
• Counter grille;
• Sheathing made of boards or plywood;

First floor in a private house

Consider the following design example for the first floor in wooden house. It does not use logs, and the sheathing is installed directly on the floor beams. This allows you to save ceiling height, makes the scheme simpler and cheaper.

The floor pie of the first floor in a wooden house is shown in the photo.

This scheme is suitable for the first floor above a warm basement, and for floors between the 1st and 2nd floors.

• At the very bottom there are cranial blocks made of 100*25 mm boards. They are screwed to the beams from the bottom. They are needed to construct a subfloor for laying insulation.
• Then they go load-bearing beams 200*50 mm.
• The subfloor made of 100*25 mm boards is laid on cranial blocks.
• A windproof film (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the subfloor.
• Then insulation is placed between the joists. In a specific example, 2 layers of mineral are used Rockwool cotton wool Light Butts laid staggered, total layer thickness 20 cm.
• The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
• Then the sheathing of the joists is done. In this case, FSF plywood with a thickness of 21 mm is used. It is laid with offset joints.
• Additionally, it is recommended to add counter battens to this scheme to create a gap under the plywood.

A floor pie in a wooden house to cover the second floor can be made as follows:

• At the very bottom of the diagram there is a 5*4 cm beam. It is needed to support fiberboard sheets, give additional rigidity to the frame and for decorative purposes.
• Then comes the vapor barrier. It is not necessary to use it here, but it will additionally protect the first floor from mineral wool dust. If the 1st and 2nd floors are heated, then it can be replaced with a windproof layer, but in wet rooms a vapor barrier membrane must be used.
• Then there are fiberboard sheets to create a subfloor for laying insulation. They are attached with a construction stapler from below to the beams.
• Mineral wool 15 cm thick is laid on the fiberboard. It is mainly needed for sound insulation.
• The insulation is covered with a windscreen on top to prevent dust from penetrating into the room.
• A continuous sheathing of 150*25 mm boards is mounted on the windbreak.
• Sheets of FC or FSF plywood, 9-12 mm thick, are attached to the boards. You also don't have to do it continuous sheathing, and, as in the previous version, use 21 mm plywood.

Ground floor floor

If you do not have a warm base, then install the floor on the first floor on the ground using stands made of posts.

• To make such a floor, you first need to remove the plant and soft layers of soil. This can be done locally at the installation site of the columns, or throughout the entire area inside the strip foundation.
• Then a dry layer of soil of at least 15-20 cm is poured and thoroughly compacted.
• The resulting base needs to be moistened and crushed stone or gravel pressed into it a few centimeters on top.
• Then backfilling is done sand-crushed stone mixture and after compaction, red brick columns are laid on it to support the floor beams. They are laid in increments of 70-100 cm, several bricks high. The top and bottom of the posts must be protected with a layer of roofing felt waterproofing.
• It is advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing between the columns so that moisture from below does not affect the beams.
• Beams are laid in the center of the columns. Their height should be at least 2 cm greater than the height of the subfloor boards and insulation, so that an air gap remains.
• The subfloor boards are laid on posts along the edges.
• Then comes a layer of vapor barrier.
• Insulation (mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam) is placed between the beams.
• A finished flooring board is attached to the beams on top.

Conclusion

We looked at the main ways to install wooden floors in private houses and apartments. In terms of price, this design is almost equivalent to pouring cement-sand screed, but warmer and less labor-intensive. It will be much easier to find specialists for installing a wooden floor than for pouring screed.

The video instructions in this article will show you the entire installation process in practice:

Of all possible options flooring arrangement is the simplest and most practical. As a rule, such floors are widespread in the construction of private houses and baths, especially wooden ones, made of logs or timber.

This article describes the technology for arranging an insulated log floor. You will learn all the stages of doing the work yourself; you will also consider insulation materials that are optimally suited for thermal insulation of a joist floor in a private home.

1 Why is it necessary to insulate a log floor?

In general, among the advantages that determine the rationality of arranging a log floor, one can highlight the possibility of doing all the work with your own hands, without the need to resort to construction organizations, or renting expensive equipment.

Also an important factor is the speed of installation and the simplicity of the technology used to construct a wooden floor with.

This design is not without its drawbacks - a log wooden floor has an order of magnitude less load bearing capacity than that of a concrete screed. Also, due to the nature of wood, lag flooring is not recommended for installation in rooms with high air humidity.

This floor, in comparison with concrete screed, extinguishes worse impact noise, however, this issue is solved by high-quality insulation materials, which in most cases have good soundproofing properties.

Any floor, including lag, is the coldest internal surface in a private home, which in addition to discomfort, especially in winter time years, can negatively affect health, since a person’s feet react very painfully to constant walking on a cold surface.

1.1 Features of insulation

When performing thermal insulation of the floor with materials and, the thermal conductivity of which ranges from 0.3 to 0.4 W/mk, you will need to lay a layer of insulation 150 mm thick if flooring located above a cold basement, or 100 mm - if the floor is on a concrete screed.

The slab insulation is laid between the joists in two layers so that the joints of the lower layer are in the middle of the top slab - this technology guarantees the absence of cold bridges (zones with greater thermal conductivity than the main part of the structure), which can become the joints of the insulation.

Also, when insulating a wooden log floor in a private house, it is mandatory to have a vapor barrier. For this, special vapor barrier membranes (films) are used, which are laid on top of the insulation and protect the material from the formation of condensation.

Condensation is the main enemy of any thermal insulation, since when moisture is absorbed, the insulation is prone to losing its thermal insulation characteristics, gaining weight and rotting.

It may also be necessary to lay a vapor barrier membrane under the insulation. This is necessary in cases where a wooden log floor is installed directly on the ground surface, or in a private house, on top of a concrete floor slab located above a damp basement.

To improve soundproofing properties For insulation, you can use special acoustic pads that are placed under the joists and contribute to more effective noise reduction. This is a good option if there is any production equipment located under your floor, or in the basement of the house.

2 Types of insulation for log floors

Considering all the requirements that thermal insulation must meet, it is best to insulate a log floor using the following materials:

• Expanded clay;
• Mineral wool;
• Foam plastic;
• Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

2.1 Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a loose insulation material, as a result of which the technology of thermal insulation with expanded clay is fundamentally different from the technology inherent in other insulation materials.

Insulation of a wooden log floor in a private house with expanded clay, which is produced by swelling of clay rock, is quite simple - you need to equip load-bearing frame, and simply scatter the insulation between the joists themselves.

When insulating with expanded clay, the presence of a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer is mandatory, since the porous structure of this material ensures that the insulation freely absorbs any moisture.

To insulate a wooden floor, it is necessary to use expanded clay with different sizes factions. In this case, small pebbles of expanded clay will fill the joints between large elements, while with homogeneous fractions there will be many channels for air in the thermal insulation.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is 0.19 W/μ, which makes expanded clay insulation quite effective, even with minimal layer thermal insulation.

2.2 Mineral wool

2.3 Foam plastic

Foam insulation is an excellent option for budget-friendly thermal insulation. At a low cost, this material has relatively good technical characteristics.

The thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is 0.4 W/μ, this material is vapor-proof and practically does not absorb moisture - when full immersion in water for 24 hours, the material absorbs liquid no more than 1.5% of its volume.

When insulating a wooden floor with polystyrene foam, it is necessary to take into account that the efficiency of this material is somewhat less than that of more expensive insulation materials, and you will need to use a thicker layer of insulation (which means the cake will take up more room space).

For thermal insulation of floors in a private wooden house the best option is PBS S-30 foam (they make it).

2.4 Penoplex

Penoplex is an improved version of conventional polystyrene foam. This material is rightfully considered one of the best insulation materials, since in terms of technical characteristics it is superior to most thermal insulation materials.

The thermal conductivity of penoplex is 0.28 W/mk, moisture absorption in 24 hours is 02%. The material is also characterized by a high vapor barrier ability, since the insulation consists of completely closed cells through which neither steam nor moisture penetrates.

In addition to effective thermal insulation, penoplex insulation solves the issue of sound insulation - such a cake can dampen airborne noise within 41 dB.

In general, if your finances do not limit the choice of insulation, then it is better to thermally insulate a wooden log floor in your house with either penoplex or mineral wool. Penoplex insulation will cost slightly less, since such a cake does not require additional vapor barrier.

2.5 Technology for arranging insulated log floors

Creating an insulated log floor does not require any special construction skills. In the presence of necessary tools You can make such a cake for the floor with your own hands in 1-2 days.

To insulate a log floor with mineral wool (penoplex insulation requires the same), you will need the following materials:

• Slab mineral wool with a density of about 20 kg/m³;
• Vapor barrier membrane;
• Waterproofing film;
• Polyurethane foam or liquid penoizol;
• Reinforcing aluminum tape;
• Wooden beam (determine the thickness of the beam based on the desired floor height and the thickness of the insulation used, optimally 15-20 centimeters);
• Nails, screws.

Depending on the characteristics of the house, the technology for fixing the joists to the floor may vary. There are several ways to attach the frame:

• In a wooden house, logs can be installed on load-bearing beams;
• Spacers made of boards are installed between the joists (the simplest option)
• IN brick house where a screed is used as a subfloor, the logs are secured with dowels using a metal corner;
• Also, logs are sometimes cut into the base of a house, but this technology is very rarely used due to its labor intensity.

2.6 Stages of creating an insulated joist floor

1. A lag frame is created. The pitch of the frame can vary between 50-100 cm. It is optimal if the pitch between the logs corresponds to the width of the thermal insulation material (mineral wool, as a rule, is produced in slabs 61 cm wide).
2. From below, on each side of the beam, slats are nailed - cranial bars, on which the subfloor covering is installed.
3. It is recommended to leave 5mm gaps between the subfloor boards, which will serve as ventilation.
4. Rolls out over the entire surface of the subfloor waterproofing film. The most convenient way to secure it is with a construction stapler.
5. The joints of the film are glued with reinforcing tape.
6. On top of the fixed waterproofing, insulation is tightly laid between the joists.
7. A vapor barrier membrane is fixed on top of the insulation.
8. The joints between the film and the walls are foamed with liquid foam insulation, further protecting the cake.
9. The logs are covered with a facing floor covering made of boards.

2.7 Features of insulating a log floor with your own hands (video)

The desire for environmental safety is driving city dwellers closer to nature. And more and more often building material becomes a tree. And this is understandable. A wooden house has numerous advantages compared to a stone or one built from artificial materials By modern technology. One of the most important parts of your home is a properly installed floor.

When building a house, they care not only about its beauty, but also about making it warm and cozy. Insulating the walls is only half the battle. The house must be protected from the cold from below. Wood is a natural material subject to rotting, so it is also important reliable insulation from moisture. And finally, it should look nice and fit interior decoration premises. In order for all goals to be achieved, it is not enough to lay the boards on a concrete base.

The floor in the house should be smooth, warm, beautiful and durable. All these qualities are achieved by laying the floor in several layers:

• base;
• heat and vapor barrier;
• rough floor;
• fine coating.

Looks like a layer cake, doesn't it? That's why it's called floor pie. Its proper arrangement will help to avoid:

• high energy costs for heating the house;
• excessive moisture, which will inevitably lead to the appearance of mold and mildew;
• rotting internal wooden structures.

Types of floors and their features

Homes may have different designs. It must be taken into account when arranging floors. Laying the floor on the first floor depends on whether there is ground floor, or it will be laid directly on the foundation. Reliable thermal and steam protection is needed here.

For interfloor ceilings Sound insulation is more important, since the main load of heat conservation and protection from moisture is borne by the lower and upper floors.

The attic space must also be separated from the living space by an insulated floor to avoid heat loss through the ceilings of the upper floor.

Floor options

The floor can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends on the desire of the owner and technical capabilities.

Wooden flooring - advantages and disadvantages

It would seem that the answer is simple - a wooden house should have a wooden floor. It’s easier, cheaper and faster to do without resorting to services professional builders. The structure will be light enough and any foundation will support it. Again, this is an environmentally friendly option and fits well into the interior.

However, there are a few "buts". A wooden floor will last a maximum of 10 years. Wood tends to rot, no matter how much you protect it from external influences. In addition, wood-boring beetles will also do their job. For a wooden floor, constant humidity in the house is important - no more than 60%. Otherwise, the floor will begin to deform and rot. Laying a wooden floor must be done with special care so that it does not warp or creak later.

Concrete floor

Its main advantage is durability. You can put any finishing coating on it - laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles. However, this is a rather heavy structure that not every foundation will support. Concrete is used only for laying the floor of the lower floor.

In modern wooden cottages, as a rule, there is a ground floor where a boiler room, workshop or other utility rooms. For the overlap between the basement and first floor it is better to use concrete plates. This is a more expensive option than wooden logs, but more reliable.

Selection of thermal and waterproofing

You can choose several materials for thermal insulation. The most environmentally friendly is expanded clay. It is inexpensive, non-flammable, does not rot, and mold does not form on it. But him thermal insulation qualities leave much to be desired.

Another environmentally friendly pure material- this is sawdust. You can get them at sawmills almost free of charge. They have low thermal conductivity and are suitable for insulation attic floor. Disadvantages include their ability to decrease in volume over time, susceptibility to moisture and, as a result, the formation of fungus. These risks can be reduced by using additives - clay, cement, lime or boric acid as an antiseptic.

Mineral wool (or glass wool) - also a budget option. It does not burn, retains heat well and has high sound insulation properties. But its installation requires adherence to a certain technology, in addition, it can cause allergies and skin irritation.

Polystyrene foam is one of the most convenient options in all respects. It is cheap, has good thermal insulation qualities, and is easy to install. You can use it to make a dense reinforced screed. From the same series - extruded polystyrene foam, it is more resistant to moisture.

Waterproofing

This is no less important component floor pie. The simplest option is plastic film.

The second option is pasting roll materials, consisting of waterproof material with a bitumen-polymer composition applied to it. Its use is justified where The groundwater come close to the surface. Most often, roofing felt is used for this purpose.

The most technologically advanced and most expensive option is a membrane coating. It is a self-adhesive film consisting of three layers - rigid plastic film, bitumen-polymer and anti-adhesive layer. It is convenient to use for creating waterproofing in rooms with complex configurations.

Wood floor pie

The basic principles of creating a wooden floor pie are accurate calculation and verification of all parameters. No less important wood selection. Typically the following types are used in construction:

• pine can only be used if the board is not very resinous. Such a floor will bring a lot of nice smell pine needles;
• oak is the most reliable and durable material;
• maple is easy to process and moisture resistant;
• Larch is comparable in strength to oak and has natural protection against insects. The most expensive option.

The tree must be treated with an antiseptic against rotting and a fire retardant, which reduces its flammability.

Floor installation

When laying a wooden structure on the foundation, it is tightly fastened to it and to load-bearing structures walls The disadvantage of this method is that in case of deformation general design(and this is inevitable under changes in temperature and humidity) can also warp the floor.

Laying on beams

If the house seasonal residence, you can make a single-layer floor. For a residential building, a two-layer one is more suitable - rough and finishing.

The beams are leveled and fastened to the foundation. The distance between them is 2.5-3 meters. To create a double floor, logs are laid on top of the beams - bars 5-6 cm thick. The laying step is 60-70 cm. A rough flooring is made on them from unedged boards. It needs to be planed and sanded. There may be small gaps between the boards, which will be covered with hydro- and thermal insulation. The bars are again laid on the insulating layers, serving as the basis for the finishing layer. Their height should be no more than 2-3 cm, this will ensure ventilation between the layers. You can choose the finishing coating according to your taste - wood, laminate or linoleum.

Laying on support posts

It would be more acceptable to lay the floor on posts. In this case, there is no adhesion between the floor and the walls; a gap is left between them. This design is called “floating”. It is suitable for houses where there is no basement floor.

Work order

1. Marking for posts (60-70 cm increments) and removing about half a meter of soil. Moreover, there is no need to select all the soil over the area of ​​the house, so as not to fill it back up to a certain level later so that there is no draft under the floor.
2. Filling and compacting the bottom under the posts - it must be rigid.
3. The columns are made of baked bricks or filled with concrete. In the latter case, you need to make formwork. Their top part verified by level.
4. Filling with a thermal insulation layer (expanded clay, sawdust), about 25 cm should remain to the top of the columns.
5. After the solution has completely hardened, the beams are laid.

It is more convenient to place the supports first around the perimeter, and only then in the middle. On top of them are laid two layers of waterproofing - roofing felt. Logs made of timber or timber are laid along the supports. Further assembly of the floor is carried out in the same order as installation on beams. The space between the added soil and the subfloor is filled with thermal insulation material, leaving 5 cm free for ventilation.

Floor pie on concrete base

The concrete base can be laid on the ground. There are practically no contraindications for arranging such a floor - neither the seismicity of the area nor the height matters groundwater, nor the level of freezing.

The layers of the pie are arranged in the following order.

Step 1. Clearing the site from the fertile layer of soil, leveling and compacting the soil.

The photo shows soil compaction

Step 2. Backfill – sand and crushed stone. First, sand is poured out in a layer of 8 cm; you can use any sand. The layer is also compacted. The crushed stone must have a fraction of at least 30-50 mm, the height of the bedding must be 7-10 cm. The crushed stone layer must be leveled. It doesn't have to be compacted.

Step 3. On top of the poured layers it is done rough screed made of concrete. The height of the mortar layer is 5-7 cm. You can make a reinforced screed. To do this, before pouring, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone.

Step 4. Waterproofing is laid on the screed. To do this, use roofing material or film. The strips are laid overlapping and secured with construction tape. The waterproofing material should extend 20-25 cm onto the walls.

Step 5. Thermal insulation slabs or strips are laid end-to-end; they must be pressed tightly against each other.

Step 6. The film is again spread over the insulating layer. Double protection of the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration from below and from above will prevent its premature deterioration.

Step 7 The next layer is reinforced finishing screed. For final and perfect leveling of the floor, beacons are set. The screed mortar is made from fine - 5-10 mm - crushed stone and river sand. Reinforced with wire mesh with 3-4 mm rods, layer thickness - 7-10 cm.

Construction of a wooden floor when laid on a concrete base

Step 9. Flooring could be anything.

You can safely place floors on such a pie interior walls in the house. That is why reinforcement must be done with a mesh and not with separate reinforcement.

Features of a concrete floor

1. You need to start making a floor pie no earlier than the walls of the house are built.
2. The concrete screed must be poured at once, otherwise the floor will be of poor quality.
3. During the week after pouring, it must be constantly shed with water to avoid the formation of microcracks.
4. Full operation is possible no earlier than two weeks after filling.

Video - Concrete floor on the ground

Floor pie

It will not be so multi-layered; its main task is to reduce audibility between floors. On the other hand, the floor must be strong to support the weight interior partitions, engineering equipment and furniture.

The most convenient would be a beam structure. By the way, it can be played in the interior of the first floor. In any case, a double floor is required - rough and finishing.

In order for the structure to be strong, the cross-section of the beam must be at least 15 cm. The length of a beam made of solid wood is from 2.5 to 3.6 m, from laminated veneer lumber – from 4.2 to 6 m.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the “pie”

Step 5. The finishing layer is laid on top and then the floor covering.

Beam ceilings are convenient because the space between them can be hidden engineering Communication– cables, pipes, etc. Such coverings are the best option For wooden house.

A beautiful, smooth, warm, dry floor is not just aesthetically pleasing. This means warmth in the house and the health of its residents.

Video - Installation of an insulated ceiling with visible beams

Video - installing a floor in a wooden house made of timber

If you are planning to build a frame country house, then you should pay attention to the designs of all elements of the building. The roof, walls (outdoor, indoor), ceilings and floor are made in the form of a “pie”, a multi-layer structure. If all the technology is followed, then we actually get a thermos.

The technological process of arranging each element of the building offers a different sequence and combination of components of a multilayer structure.

So the roof has its own set of layers, and the floor has its own. In this article we will look at the features of the “pie” of the floor of a frame house and installation methods.

Before choosing a floor material, you should decide on the type of foundation.

In most cases frame houses erected on or on a type foundation. This is primarily due to the fact that the house is not heavy, up to 16 tons. And a pile foundation is the cheapest, as it does not require the use of special construction equipment. Therefore, we will accept that the foundation of our house has a pile appearance.

To ensure reliable insulation, a double layer is laid. Also, instead of timber, you can use boards with a width of 15-25 cm and a thickness of 5-6 cm. The laying technology is the same on the edge.

For attic spaces the subfloor must be strong to withstand the weight of the insulation and an adult. Usually in the attic glass wool (insulation) is left in open form, so the entire load falls on the subfloor of the attic.

Treatment is used to protect all wooden structures. by special means antiseptics and penetrating compounds. But there are small nuances; it is better to process everything before installation, each element separately.

If the height allows, then the subfloor is filled from below directly onto the supporting beams. As was said above, everything must be treated with protective agents.

The second method is to make secondary guides on top of the log, but this method is not widespread, as it will require additional costs.

In most cases, the foundation is low and cranial bars are used, which are made of timber measuring 5 x 5 cm. They are attached to the bottom of the logs or beams using self-tapping screws or nails.

Around this place, it is better to use basalt glass wool, and treat the boards well with a penetrating compound.

And the surface of the finished floor is covered metal sheet or a sheet of asbestos.

Base pile foundation

Since we are using a foundation, there is space between the subfloor and the ground. Many people make the mistake of completely sewing up this space.

Thinking they are reducing heat losses, but in fact, moisture accumulates in this space and has nowhere to go, which leads to an acceleration of the process of wood rotting.

To prevent this from happening, leave on opposite sides ventilation holes, which are decorated with grilles. Also, you should not close the vents for the winter.

Installation of heated floors in a frame house

Both water heating and electric heating are used.

Let's start with the electrical method, since it is often used in the construction heated floors. Cable floors, infrared and heating mats are used. It is best to trust the specialists.

IN Lately more and more popular water heating wooden floor, as it is much cheaper than electric.

Water heating can be arranged in three ways:

• Swedish stove.
• Use of heat-reflecting plates.
• Use of concrete screed.

Swedish stove - Quite an expensive method of installing heated floors.

It is as follows:

You should wait until the concrete has completely set. We get that the Swedish stove is a full-fledged one. Subsequently, we build a frame house on this slab.

Use of heat-reflecting plates.

A finished wooden floor is laid on joists different ways. Which technology is optimal in a particular case depends on many factors, including financial opportunities host, geological and climatic features. The classical method is always taken as the basis for all technologies. What options for flooring in a wooden house are most often used, their design features will be discussed in this article.

By lags we usually mean timber rectangular section, but in fact this concept includes several design solutions at once:

1. The thinnest part of a log has a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
2. A log hewn on both sides with a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
3. Boards joined in pairs with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 25 mm;
4. A rectangular beam with different sections depending on the future load. The cross-section of the floor joists is calculated depending on the load and step width. In accordance with GOST, the minimum applicable section is 100x150 mm in increments of 60 cm;
5. Metal I-beam channel;
6. Laths used during dry leveling and insulation;
7. Long-dimensional plastic elements used to complete screeds in the factory.

Method of laying lags

Any logs made from various materials have one functional purpose: fixing and installing the finished and subfloor in a wooden house.

According to the installation design, beams are divided into:

• Laying on wooden beams;
• Laying on slabs;
• Laying on a support pole;
• Laying on prepared soil.

The relationship between floor design and groundwater occurrence

The proximity of groundwater and the design features determine whether or not there will be a subfloor. The shorter the distance from the joists to the ground, the less labor-intensive the installation. The design is distinguished according to GOST according to the level of seasonal location of groundwater, they also dictate the type of construction:

1. If the groundwater is low, then you can make the most simple design floor without subfloor. This option can be seen in dacha construction or in garden houses. For the southern regions and in middle lane In Russia, this method is appropriate in residential construction if the base of the house is higher than 1 m.
2. If groundwater is close to the soil surface, then the wooden floor and joists must be protected from harmful effects. In this case, support columns are laid out from sand-lime brick or concrete.

You can find out the groundwater level in the area and determine which floor structure is most suitable for construction on a map from the local weather service.

Classic floor design

As we have already said, all floor designs are divided into: with and without underground space. Without an underground device, it is cold and needs to be insulated. Several methods have been invented for this. Floors with subfloors are more interesting. They are made thermally insulated or not. Thermally insulated ones are divided depending on the location of the insulating part: between supports or joists. Among the wider variety, the simplest is a cold floor device.

Features of installing a classic cold floor

Laying on dry soil is carried out in several stages:

1. Soil preparation: removable soil-vegetative layer and the earth is rammed,
2. The second stage is to fill the sand cushion; to save money, you can use construction garbage mixing it with sand or crushed stone with sand. This pillow is again carefully compacted. You can compact layers hand tools, which is made from a heavy block and bar. which is attached from above across.
3. The frame for the floor is made from another layer of sand or clay or slag. This layer should have a thickness of 2-3 times the cross-section of the timber used as a lag. The main thing is that this layer is dry enough and protects the wooden floor from moisture. This layer is filled flush with the joists of the future floor.

The most economical construction option is the use of slag, but it needs to rest before use, so you need to purchase it a year before installation.

Since wood is susceptible to fungi and mold, before laying wooden logs in finishing layer need to be coated with an antiseptic and dried. The logs are laid in increments of 60-65 cm, this is enough for a structure made of tongue and groove boards 35-40 mm wide. If you use a wide board for the floor in a wooden house in a cold way, then over time it will warp. Do not forget that such a tan must have ventilation. Ventilation acts as an exhaust hood; it must be done in the form of holes in the baseboards on both sides.

When laying floor joists important point is their location. Each board is cut from wood that has tree rings, they are worth focusing on. The laying should be such that the pattern is directed in opposite directions for each subsequent board, so they will not allow each other to warp.

Features of installing an insulated classic floor

This option for installing a floor in a wooden house is laid on a kind of pie according to wooden beams. The construction of a pie is intended for hydro- and thermal insulation of a wooden floor. The main layers of the cake along the beams are carried out in stages:

1. A pit is dug, the bottom of which is lined with insulating material, such as roofing felt or bags of lime or cement. If bags are selected, they are laid out in 2 layers.
2. The next step is to pour a black cushion 8-10 cm thick and carefully compact it and fill it with a lime solution (5 parts water x 1 part lime).
3. It's all covered up waterproofing layer, for example from roofing felt. The joints are glued with bitumen solution.
4. The next layer of the cake consists of fiberboard. The slabs are taken with a thickness of 30 mm.
5. An expanded clay cushion of fine fraction material 8-9 cm thick is poured onto the fiberboard.
6. The very final layer of the pie will be poured from concrete, the main part of which is sand.
7. Then logs are laid in increments of 60 cm, onto which the floor is attached.

These are diagrams of a classic floor design without an underground with insulation. But for residential buildings this option is not the best. For a wooden house in the city, it is better to use a structure with an underground, where insulation occurs along the beams from above, which we will discuss below.

Classic floor design with underground

For this design, soil preparation is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first two cases. The most important difference in the design is that instead of sand cushion in this case, lined columns or solid concrete ones are used. The pillars are laid on a pre-filled foundation, each one has its own or is common to all. The width of the foundation structure should be 5-6 cm wider than the column.

In a floor structure with an underfloor, the finishing boards must be laid “in a cross” with joists. It is good if the direction of the wooden floorboards is parallel to the light falling from the window in the room. If the floor does not have a sheathing on top for additional insulation, then the logs are mounted across the direction of the boards. All measurements are carried out starting from the central axes of the columns and joists. The top of the columns is covered with a layer of roofing felt waterproofing. The first joist is mounted with a gap of 10-20 cm from the wall, and the same is done with the opposite final joist.

The subfloor of a cold structure is covered with a cushion of expanded clay or slag. But you should always leave 5-6 cm up to the joists unfilled, this will be a ventilated gap. To ensure better ventilation of the underground space, holes are made in the baseboard. According to GOST, ventilation for an area of ​​15 m2 requires 2 holes. To ensure better ventilation, they are made on opposite sides of a wooden house. And to prevent rodents from getting into the ventilation, a metal mesh is installed in the device.

There are more modern way ventilation device, when the main pipe is taken underground and under the influence natural traction ventilation is carried out.

The main difference between a heated floor with an underground and a cold floor is the additional lathing on the joists along the beams, not from the underground side, but from the side of the house where the insulation is installed. For this design, a strip is nailed on both sides along the beams, which will hold the sheathing. Waterproofing made of ordinary PVC film is laid on the sheathing, on top of which mineral wool is laid or expanded clay from a fine fraction is poured. But there should be a ventilated gap between the top point of the log and the insulation. To ventilate the underground space, in this case, ventilation is done in the basement of the house in increments of 5-6 m. In the winter season, the odors in the basement are closed, the easiest way to do this is polyurethane foam, in the spring you can simply cut it out with a stationery knife.

These are the main design options classic model floors in a wooden house, which are complemented by various components. Wooden floors in the house are environmentally friendly and beautiful, but after installation various problems may appear, such as squeaking. We'll talk about how to deal with this later.

How to deal with squeaky floors

To understand how to eliminate a squeak, you need to find its cause. And there may be several of these: the board rubs against a nail, the floorboard itself creaks, joists creak, baseboards are installed incorrectly, ventilation is not provided and the floor gets wet, etc.

If the reason is in the logs, you need to carefully examine the logs of the wooden floor and, if there are any unevenness, they should be trimmed. If the creaking does not stop after this, then the joist needs to be replaced.

If the reason is the board, you need to carefully examine how the boards move when a person walks along them and see if they rub against each other. To solve the problem, you can try pouring talc between the boards or pouring PVA glue. In fact, there are many ways, but there are several traditional ways combating creaking wooden floors:

1. A wooden wedge is driven into the gap between the creaking boards.
2. If this does not help, a screw is driven between the boards, the head of which is bitten off, and the hole is filled with putty and painted over.
3. This is the most labor-intensive method using pins. The joints of the floorboards are shot with holes of 10-15 mm in increments of 15-30 cm. Round pins are made from wood and carefully coated with PVA glue and driven into the holes. The surface is sanded and painted.
4. The floorboard in creaking areas is additionally screwed to the joists with hardened self-tapping screws in increments of 50 mm.
5. Thin strips are cut out of felt, laid out along the length of the floor in increments of 40-50 mm and covered with fiberboard.

Any of the methods is considered effective against squeaking, but when correct installation wooden floor on joists, even a structure made of ordinary boards will be quiet.