When arranging the entrance to the basement great importance has the reliability and quality of the hinges used; installation of elements that are not strong enough or cannot withstand loads leads to rapid loosening of the doors or complicates the process of opening them. If you have the correct drawing, installation is not a problem; mandatory conditions maintenance includes measures to extend service life: inspection, tightening, oil lubrication. You can purchase the necessary accessories at any hardware store, the frame and cover are in most cases made independently.

1. Stretched overhead hinges, fixed on one side of the hatch and on the floor or wall. The cost depends on reliability and decorativeness; maximum costs are observed when using forged types.

2. Hidden, mounted in the ceiling or internal frame and allowing the basement door to be brought to the same level as the floor covering. When choosing this option, the hole in the underground is easily covered with a carpet; only the owners of the house will know about it.

3. Driven mechanisms that automatically open and close heavy and massive hatches, most often metal. This variety, in turn, is divided into retractable and folding groups.

4. Pantographs that ensure sequential movement of hatches upward and only then to the side. When using such hinges, the edges of the door come out of the ceilings without problems, regardless of the thickness of the materials. The best results are achieved when they are installed on wooden structures and doors with two leaves.

5. Gas shock absorbers, closers and stops, simplifying the lifting of the hatch from the cellar and allowing it to be fixed in the desired position. The main advantage is the ability to lift heavy doors made of metal and wood by one person when they are positioned horizontally.

Regardless of the type, the fasteners used are subject to strict requirements in terms of withstanding weight loads, ensuring backlash and anti-corrosion protection. Hinges, like handles, are purchased with a reserve. For small manhole sizes (within 0.75-1 m2), two pieces installed closer to the corner are sufficient; in other cases, the axis is strengthened in the center. Actively used hatches require metal edging around the edges; this requirement is taken into account when selecting the backlash.

Description of the “Cellar” set

At self-production and installation, it’s worth buying a universal kit. Standard kit includes:

• Gas shock absorbers (stops) with the required length and force (from 500 N and above).
• Mounting brackets, including wall bracket.
• Hidden hinges (left and right) with a bracket for a gas shock absorber and central ones without it.
• A prefabricated lock consisting of a mounting and lifting plate, a locking part with a set of keys that simplify opening the hatch and lifting it.

The Cellar set can be purchased fully equipped, but in most cases not all of its parts are used. When installing a simple basement hatch without shock absorbers, the central hinges and lock are sufficient. Regardless of the selected configuration, the mount ensures free opening of the manhole with a minimum gap along its perimeter and thickness flooring up to 1.5 cm. Hidden or secret handles with brackets or ring are purchased separately. The cost of the parts included in the “Cellar” kit varies from 150 to 1500 rubles, they are characterized by: high quality metal and anti-corrosion protection.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a hatch with your own hands

Work begins with drawing up a layout of the lid, taking into account future furniture and passage locations; if possible, the entrance is arranged at the stage of building the house. For the manufacture of the structure big size boards up to 40 mm thick are used, covered with moisture-resistant plywood; if intense load is expected, it is better to construct the frame from solid timber. All wooden elements pre-treated with drying oil, antiseptics or similar hydrophobic impregnation. Metal version It is recommended to make it from a sheet of steel from 3 mm and higher and the same corner; to insulate the underground, it is insulated with a sheet of foam plastic.

When making from wood, a simple procedure is followed: to subfloor a frame of 4 pieces of timber is nailed → a blank 1 cm smaller than the selected size is assembled from boards and plywood → regular hinged hinges are nailed on the basement side or shock absorbers are fixed → a hidden handle is cut into the right place → the lid is screwed at an angle of 90 ° and checked for jamming .

It is recommended to create wooden hidden hatches in multi-layers, top scores are achieved by making the first and outer layer of moisture-resistant plywood, padding along the edges of the sheathing and filling internal space insulation. A 1 cm gap is required.

Wooden varieties are easier to make yourself, you will need welding machine and an angle grinder with matching wheels. Step by step diagram The work includes: cutting out a door from metal in compliance with the exact dimensions → welding a corner around the perimeter of the hatch; if the area is large, it is fixed inside the structure as additional stiffening ribs → laying a sheet of foam plastic with a thickness no more than the height of the corner → fixing the insulation using thin steel and self-tapping screws. Next stage consists of welding and anchoring a metal frame, subsequently reinforced hinges and closers are mounted to one of the selected sides, and a sealing strip is installed to the other.

When arranging a manhole in the basement with simultaneous filling concrete floor There are no problems - to bring the hatch to the same level with the floor, it is enough to recess the frame a few mm deep. In this case, it is more difficult to hide the handle; when making it yourself, it is simply welded to the outside of the metal. The exception is types that are closed flooring materials, they require a special approach to fastening fittings. All steel elements involved are necessarily coated with anti-corrosion primers or paints.

When conducting hidden installation Special attention is given to markings. On metal structures holes for future fastenings are prepared in advance, all elements have exact dimensions, when working with wooden hatches knocked down or glued together, they are cut 5-10 mm smaller due to the risk of fiber swelling. During installation, a strip with a height that matches the size of the provided gap between it and the floor is placed under the end of the door. Screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in when the hinges are positioned at right angles. During fixation, the lid is opened and closed several times until a smooth movement is achieved, without jamming in any area. If necessary, the hinges are shifted and twisted, but under no circumstances should they be used in an incorrectly secured state.

To ensure safe and long-term service, a number of measures are taken even at the stage of constructing a hatch into the basement with your own hands.

1. In houses with children, protection is provided against accidental opening of the door; if necessary, a lock with keys is inserted into it.

2. The outer part of the cover is finished with the same materials as the rest of the floor. To bring the upper plane to the zero level, the type and thickness of the floor covering are determined in advance.

3. At least once a year, the rotating elements are treated with lithol or oil; with active use, this period is reduced. Both mounted and hidden hinges, free access is provided from the side of the cellar or from above.

4. Measures are being taken to insulate the underground: the hatch is sealed around the perimeter and insulated.

5. If there is a high risk of damage to the floor covering, to prevent creases at the moment of opening, the edges of the tile or laminate facing the axial side are cut at an angle of 60°.

6. The risk of the cover being pressed into the basement is eliminated; the width of the corresponding supporting strips is at least twice the size of the gap or sealing layer.

7. Actively used horizontal hatches are reinforced at the edges with metal.

Temporary doors to the cellar can be secured using a piece of rubber or simple canopies. If it is impossible to purchase factory-quality products, they are fixed on hinges from the hood of the car with a spring mechanism. This option is also worth choosing when heavy weight or the need for frequent installation in open position. Car shock absorbers successfully fix both wooden and steel varieties.

Possible mistakes

The main problems arise when bringing the upper plane level with the floor mark, especially when making a hatch under the tiles with your own hands. Erroneous actions include fixing the door or screwing the hinges before installing the floor covering or adjusting its position when the concrete has not yet hardened.

Opening and changing the fastening is only permissible if there is a stable frame: the heavier the structure, the stronger Negative consequences. Violations of installation and operation technology also include the lack of anti-corrosion protection for metal elements and anti-fungal protection for wooden elements, the use of weak hinges and ignoring the need for their lubrication.

There are two main design options for entering the basement - a door and a hatch. Each of them is suitable for certain premises. If we're talking about In the basement, the entrance to which is located inside the house, most owners prefer a hatch.

Making it yourself is easy and quite quick.

Before we begin installing it, let's decide for ourselves whether a basement is really needed in the house. Will he be able to solve the tasks assigned to him and will he not be a heavy burden for us?

A basement is a room whose floor is below ground level. construction site more than half the height of its walls. Otherwise it will be the ground floor.

What affects the structure of the basement

1. Hydrogeological conditions;
2. Soil type. For example, excavation work on rocky soil will be very expensive, since it is impossible to do without special equipment;
3. Level groundwater. When this indicator exceeds the depth of the foundation, you will have to purchase expensive waterproofing.

Advantages

1. Creates additional usable area, which can be used for storing things, canning and food. Often a workshop or room for engineering communications, wine cellar and others.
2. Having arranged a basement under the main house, you no longer need to think about building an additional one on the territory utility room, thereby keeping such expensive square meters plot.
3. The basement allows you to always have a warm and dry floor on the first floor.
4. The owners receive additional comfort, since they do not need to run to the annex for groceries in bad weather; they can simply go downstairs and take everything they need.

Flaws

The only thing that can influence the decision to install a basement is its price. It can reach a quarter of all costs for a private house, which is a lot. This is due to expensive land work, for which you will have to hire special equipment.

You can do everything yourself, but it will require a lot of effort and time. In addition, careful arrangement of the room will be required, which includes waterproofing, interior decoration and placement of the necessary shelves.

Basement entrance cover

Prepare materials and tools:

• sheet steel - thickness at least 3-5 mm, otherwise it may collapse;
• metal corner;
• tin;
• welding machine;
• dense rubber;
• expanded polystyrene;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• roulette

1. The lid must be made strictly to the size of the shaft so that it fits exactly end-to-end when closing. To do this use rubber compressor, which will protect the basement from air entering it, which can lead to an increase in temperature.
2. It can be covered on top with the floor covering used in the room, or left as is, after being painted with paint to protect it from rust. Weld a corner around the perimeter to the bottom of the steel plate, providing additional rigidity to the structure.

Tip: Leave room for free movement so that the lid fits tightly into place.

1. Lay insulation on the inside of the lid. For this, use polystyrene foam, which you cut so that it fits flush against the inside of the corner.
2. Cover the lid with a sheet of tin, bend it at the sides and secure it with self-tapping screws.
3. Attach the basement hatch to external hinges. There are also electric version mechanism for closing and opening the lid.

Electric drive

Unlike the previous option, when anyone can open the hatch, this design turns the basement into a safe. Unwanted visitors will not be able to get there no matter what they want. The design depends on how the do-it-yourself basement hatch drawings are drawn up, the skill of the performer and financial opportunities customer.

Regular option

Prepare:

• electric motor;
• duralumin pipes;
• sheet steel;
• grinder with a circle for cutting metal;
• welding machine;
• electrical cable;
• three-position toggle switch;
• current source.

This option is considered the simplest, therefore it is used not for special protection of the cellar, but to simplify interaction with the hatch. Install the mechanism directly on the hinged lid.

Tip: never install the hatch at 90°, leave room for free reverse movement.

The operation of the design is quite simple - you send a signal to the electric motor from the remote control, it begins to rotate and set the mechanism in motion. The lid rises upward thanks to the rod to an angle of 80°, where it is stopped automatically.

You can close the hatch by pressing the second toggle switch on the remote control, which turns on the reverse rotation of the electric motor shaft and returns the rod to its place. You can hide the moving elements behind light duralumin pipes or steel boxes. Even a beginner can assemble the mechanism quite quickly.

Sometimes, due to objective and subjective circumstances, work that appears to be well done at first glance has to be redone.

Very often, such a misfortune occurs with sewer wells made of reinforced concrete rings. In the process of exposure to precipitation, as well as due to exposure dynamic loads and the load from its own weight, the drainage well, together with the soil around it, gradually becomes compacted and, as people say, “sits.” Along with it, the previously completed landscaping around it is sinking.

If it doesn’t fit from the point of view of decadent moods, then all this can be easily corrected like any other at first glance difficult task. During a long selection possible options Many options were considered to solve the current problem. Ultimately, I settled on installing additional elements of a smaller diameter made of the same material as the material of the well. That is, to the required level, I will use reinforced concrete rings KO-6, which will ultimately raise the manhole cover to the desired level. They don't have the size large-diameter is 850 mm and thickness is 70 mm. Therefore, first of all, you need to calculate how many rings are needed to achieve the level of a landscaped lawn. With help household level and measuring tape, I determined that the manhole cover is 20 cm below ground level.

Considering that the KO-6 rings are laid on a solution about 3-4 cm thick, two such rings will be needed to achieve the desired mark.
The weight of one element is 50 kg. Therefore, they can be delivered by personal car, unless, of course, you don’t mind the shock absorbers.

So let's get started. First of all, you need to dig up and free it from the soil. sewer hatch. The process is tedious, but not long. We use a bayonet and juice shovel. We put the removed soil aside. It will be very useful to us later.

Having cleared the sewer hatch from the soil, remove it and the base of the hatch from the old fastening elements and put it aside for now.

Next, the iron is thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust. concrete base main cover sewer well for laying additional rings. This is done with a regular shovel and broom. The old fastening studs are cut off with a cutting machine (grinder).

To lay the rings, it is necessary to prepare a cement-sand mortar. Considering the meagerness of the required volume and mother’s laziness in the matter of pulling the concrete mixer out of the shed, the decision was made to knead this portion by hand, especially since there is nothing complicated about it. The solution for laying rings must be at least 75 grade. This proportion is approximately 5:1, that is, for five shovels of sand there is one shovel of cement. Considering that I was doing this for myself, five shovels of sand were replaced by two shovels of cement, and the final mark was about 50.

I was also too lazy to go for a cement bucket, so I used a piece of plywood with a layer on top plastic film for cooking mortar mixture. Without rushing, the ingredients were mixed quite efficiently.

The process of mixing with water during preparation cement-sand mortar This is a rather clever and interesting building ritual. In the center of the mixed dry mixture there will be something like a volcano crater, into which is poured the amount of water that is necessary to obtain the mixture of the desired consistency. This is followed by a short smoke break, after which slowly starting from the bottom outside of our “volcano” we begin to lift the dry mixture and, rolling it over the edge, dump it into the middle until the water is completely covered with the dry solution. Next, the mixture is thoroughly mixed with the least effort.

If you smoke twice as long, the water can be completely absorbed into the mixture and all you have to do is turn the mixture over a few times and poke it with a shovel.

Before laying the mortar, the concrete base must be thoroughly moistened with water so that the concrete base does not immediately draw out most of the cement laitance from the mortar.

We lay, if possible, an equal layer of mortar along the contour for mounting the first ring. You can use either a shovel or a trowel for this. Who cares what?

Although the ring is not very heavy and one healthy adult man can lift it, you will still have to tinker with the installation. It is not easy to hold such a weight in a completely horizontal position for at least ten seconds. If possible, then better installation accomplish with someone's help. I was alone. As they say, the need for invention is cunning. This is the simple device I used. The lid was not covered from above, but as if pulled from the side. I think it turned out well.

Checking the level showed a small blockage. But considering not really flat surface of the ring itself, I concluded that everything was within tolerance.
The excess mortar was collected and laid for the second mounted element. The mounting loops are cut off for ease of installation of the next element.

Place the second ring on the prepared surface. The quality of their execution leaves much to be desired, but this is the view from the outside, which will subsequently be covered with soil. Everything is clear from the inside and hits the target.

The hinges are also cut off for installation of the next element, which is a polymer-cement sewer hatch. He has quite robust construction and can withstand up to 300 kg load. Extremely Alternative option heavy, unbearable, cast iron hatches. The weight of the hatch including the base is only 45 kg.

The hatch is installed. The level shows the evenness of the horizons both at its left and right ends.

The final step is to secure the base of the hatch to the reinforced concrete rings. To do this, holes are drilled in the skirt of the hatch base. Three will be enough. Can be drilled with a regular drill on concrete or metal. Since my hatch was previously installed, the holes are already ready.

After a couple of days, after the solution has gained strength, through the holes made in the skirt of the base of the hatch, holes are drilled with a hammer drill for anchor bolts in the reinforced concrete base. The bolts are inserted and tightened.

The hatch is ready. All that remains is to restore the landscaping.

Many owners of private houses do not know how to make a cellar door with their own hands or what the staircase leading there should be like. In this article we will understand the basic requirements for the design of a manhole and try to choose suitable materials and constructive solutions.

Let's start with what we want from going down to the cellar:

• If we are talking about a horizontal hatch, it must be large enough. Remember: they do not go down to the cellar and rise from it empty-handed.

Hint: the minimum horizontal dimensions for a cramped room are 65x70 centimeters.
A slightly larger hatch – 90x90 – will be comfortable for a person of substantial size.

• It is desirable that the staircase has a slope of no more than 60 degrees to the horizon and a step width of at least 15 cm. The presence of handrails is extremely welcome: losing your balance on a steep flight of stairs with a load in your hands will be extremely unpleasant.
• A cellar door, regardless of its design, should provide maximum thermal insulation. Temperature inside the cellar and in the room above it (or outside, if we are building a separate room) differs greatly for most of the year.
• High vapor permeability is also undesirable. You can often come across dubious advice that this structure, like the entire ceiling, should “breathe”. However, in practice, the migration of steam from a warm room to a cold cellar in the summer only leads to an increase in the amount of condensate in it.
• However, there is no escape from moisture – some condensation is inevitable.. Hence one more requirement: the doors to the cellar and the frame around them should not rot or rust.

Materials and design

So, taking into account all the stated wishes, let’s consider what materials can be used.

Tree

Preferred, of course, are species that are resistant to decay and dampness: larch, oak, aspen. The door itself is either knocked together from a board with a thickness of 25 millimeters; the box is assembled from timber.

Tip: if you don’t have woodworking machines at your disposal, the easiest way is to purchase a ready-made door frame and adjust it to the required dimensions.

For additional protection to prevent rot, the wood is impregnated with an antiseptic primer; after it dries, it would not hurt to dry the material 2-3 times or coat it with a high-humidity resistant polyurethane varnish.

To assemble the shield and box, it is better to use self-tapping screws rather than nails. Of course, stainless steel – yellow or silver. The board is pre-drilled with a smaller diameter and countersunk to fit the screw head. In this case, you do not have to worry about the appearance of cracks.

To hang the hatch, hidden hinges are used, for which recesses are selected in the box. The hinges, of course, are also taken exclusively from stainless steel: black steel will quickly decorate the hatch cover with untidy streaks.

How does the horizontal entrance to the cellar open?

Two simple solutions are used most often:

1. A groove about 5 centimeters wide is selected in the hatch cover and half covered with a 3 mm plate of duralumin or galvanized steel. The resulting improvised handle will allow you to lift a moderately weighted lid without discomfort.
2. For thick oak hatches (as cellar hatches were traditionally called), the instructions are slightly different. Here it is better to use a ring that, in a horizontal position, is sunk into a shallow groove.

Metal

Steel lyada is an ordinary steel door appropriate size. Her distinctive feature– completely hidden hinges that will allow the owner to avoid tripping over the lid. Typical materials are profiled pipe with a cross-section of 20x40 millimeters and steel sheet 3 mm thick.

The main problem with steel is its susceptibility to corrosion. How is it resolved? The simplest way– two-three-layer paintwork. Any enamel for external work is applied over the alkyd primer layer.

Gas lifts

A simple device consisting of a filled compressed air a cylinder, a piston and a pair of mounting platforms can greatly simplify the lifting of a massive boat. The price of such a product starts from about 300 rubles.

The method of fastening is determined by the material of the hatch:

• For wood, ordinary stainless steel screws are used.
• For a professional pipe with walls of moderate thickness, it is easier to use a metal screw with a drill. It is screwed into the hole drilled by its tip using a conventional screwdriver.

Insulation and vapor barrier

A wooden exit from the cellar requires multi-layer insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

1. A block is placed on the bottom side of the lyada inside the box, which will serve as a frame for the heat-insulating layer. It also fixes the layer of waterproofing material. Typically, ordinary polyethylene is used for this purpose.
2. Inside the block frame, a layer of insulation is laid - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool. The thickness of the insulation is usually 40-50 millimeters.
3. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier.
4. Then the insulated frame is covered with a sheet of thin (4-5 mm) plywood on stainless steel screws. Of course, plywood also needs protection from dampness - antiseptic treatment and impregnation with drying oil.

Insulated wooden lyada.

A basement in an apartment or private house is very useful and the right room, because you can store supplies for the winter in it, since it saves optimal temperature throughout the year and can be used as storage for excess items.

You can provide access to such a room using a basement hatch cut directly into the floor of the apartment. A high-quality hatch will allow you to organize the entrance, making it invisible and convenient. We will tell you how to make a hatch in the floor with your own hands in our article.

What should a basement hatch be like?

A floor hatch in the basement must meet a number of requirements, including:

• aesthetic appearance;
• harmonization with the overall interior design;
• reliable and hermetically sealed locking;
• simplicity of the locking mechanism;
• convenience when opening the hatch, even of a fairly large size, the need to apply a minimum of effort;
• simplicity of design, consisting of a square thin lid and a handle for lifting it;
• the need to install an electric drive or other automatic devices to open a lid weighing more than 10 kg;
• matching the dimensions of the basement shaft and the manhole cover to avoid unforeseen difficulties during installation;
• the location of the hatch cover is flush with the rest of the floor covering, the absence of elements protruding above the floor level;
• the strength of the basement hatch structure, capable of withstanding repeated passage of people.

It is worth noting that hatches in the floor for the basement should protect the living space from the penetration of dampness, preventing the growth of mold and mildew. This requirement applies to all basement hatches, without exception, of both simple and complex designs.

Method for constructing a basement hatch

To make a hatch in the floor with your own hands, you need to acquire the necessary construction tools and consumables.

To work you will need:

• roulette;
• self-tapping screws for securing the canvas;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill or hammer drill;
• welding machine with a set of electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• metal corners;
• iron up to 5 mm thick;
• sealing rubber.

Sequence of work

This should be done as follows:

• From metal corners Using electric welding, you need to build a base for the future hatch cover, and it is important to leave a 5 mm gap to the concrete opening to place the seal.
• A durable rubber seal should be placed around the perimeter of the opening.
• Next, you need to decide on the main material that will be used to cover the hatch cover. It can be metal, wood, ceramic tiles, in a word, absolutely any material. The main thing is that it matches the taste of the owners and general interior premises.
• The sharp edges of the corners on the frame should be sharpened and their dimensions adjusted. Wherein top part The lid should be slightly wider than the bottom.
• When calculating the size of the frame, you should take into account the size of the corner shelf so that the lid tightly covers the passage.
• The hatch cover is most often fixed in the opening with hinges, ensuring its unhindered opening. At the same time, it must tightly block the entrance to prevent moisture from entering the basement.
• The only requirement for the hinges is to match the dimensions of the basement hatch. Such fasteners can be easily purchased at any construction supermarket. The hinges are fixed with self-tapping screws on one side on the hatch cover, and on the other side on the metal corners.

Basement hatch on gas shock absorbers

To block the entrance to the basement, you can make a hatch in wooden floor with your own hands, equipped with gas shock absorbers.

Such hatches have a number of features:

1. The metal structures of such products must be covered powder paint for protection against corrosion.
2. When installing the structure frame, argon-arc welding is used.
3. The lid contour can be sheathed with any material, with a thickness not exceeding 20 mm. In particular, it is permissible to use ceramic tiles, parquet, wood, artificial or natural stone.

When organizing the entrance to the basement, you should pay special attention to how to make the hatch in the floor invisible so that it does not protrude above the covering and does not stand out from the general background.

To open floor hatches of this design, you only need to apply a small force to lift the cover by the handle to a small height. The rest of the work is done by gas springs.

Thanks to gas shock absorbers, the underground hatch in a wooden floor opens and closes smoothly and freely, without any jerking. And if the load on the gas shock absorber is calculated absolutely correctly, then lifting the cover becomes very easy.

The special design of the hinges with gas shock absorbers allows you to equip even very large and heavy hatches, without losing their basic properties - reliability and strength. At the same time, one movement is enough to open the door 90°.

Do not forget that floor hatches in the basement under laminate flooring require rubber gaskets located around the perimeter of the hatch. If there is a seal, a hatch with gas shock absorbers will prevent foreign odors and moisture from entering the basement, and will also prevent the appearance of drafts.

Construction of a hatch for tiling

A hatch in the floor under tiles has a number of differences in installation compared to other types of similar structures. In addition, such products are somewhat more expensive.

Features of hatches for tiling:

1. A metal trough is used as a frame for the tiles.
2. It is prohibited to open the hatch until the lifting mechanism is fully adjusted and the installation of the floor covering is completed.

The sequence of actions for making a hatch looks like this:

• The lifting hinges are disconnected from the lid.
• Mark the connection points to secure the hatch. To do this, carefully place the lid in the opening and adjust the level of the planes.
• The top edge of the hatch should be flush with the floor tiles.
• By disconnecting lifting mechanism, you can place the lid in the opening on a flat belt and fill the trough with concrete mortar.
• You can remove the trough from the opening once the solution reaches 90% strength. After this, all excess concrete from the frame and the outer part of the trough is removed.
• Now you can attach the lifting mechanism.
• Ceramic tile laid on concrete mortar.
• You should check that between the wall and the frame floor hatch there were no gaps. If there are any, they must be filled with sealant or foam.
• On last stage To ensure a tight fit of the lid, a sealing rubber band should be glued to the frame.

Thus, all work on arranging basement hatches can be done independently if you follow the instructions illustrated with photos and video materials. In particular, then you will know exactly how to make a floor hatch with your own hands without making mistakes.