Sooner or later, a moment comes when the appearance of the toilet room begins to irritate the eyes of the apartment owners. Few people now like shabby peeling walls, uneven floors, poorly fitting doors. Surely you want to get rid of the spectacle water pipes and sewer riser. Over time, the toilet also loses its appearance, turns yellow, and becomes covered with a network of cracks.

You will want to get rid of the ancient cistern, outdated both physically and morally.

There is no need to be intimidated by the apparent scale of the work - repairing a toilet with your own hands is a completely feasible task. The room, as a rule, is small, which does not involve large expenses for building materials (an exception may be the cost of high-quality plumbing fixtures).

Cheap repairs

Cheap repairs can also look neat

You can, of course, go the simplest and most inexpensive way:

• You can leave the toilet in place, perhaps only by replacing the old cistern.
• Without knocking down the old tiles, clean and putty the surfaces of the walls and ceiling free of tiles. Prime and paint them with water-based emulsion or cover them with wallpaper.
• Clean the pipes from rust and paint them, hide them, if possible, in the simplest ways, for example, with wooden (chipboard) panels.
• Refresh appearance doors, old flooring, baseboards.

It would seem that the job is done. Of course, the view will change slightly, but calling it a full-fledged renovation is hard to come by. If the owner of the apartment respects himself, he must find opportunities for an event that will completely transform this much-frequented room.

European-quality renovation

Tiled toilet - shines and shines

When hearing the word “European-quality renovation,” many apartment owners fall into a stupor - but it’s terribly expensive and requires the involvement of some super-specialists! And the thought of carrying out such a toilet repair with their own hands even scares them.

Don't rate your abilities so low! European-quality renovation involves high-quality work using the most modern building materials. There are currently no problems with their acquisition; the technology for working with them is quite accessible even to a novice, inexperienced master. The result will exceed all expectations!

Naturally, in order to achieve the task, first of all you need to free up a field for yourself - dismantle the old equipment and clean the premises.

Removing the toilet step by step:

Cleaning walls and floors

Removing tiles is easier and faster with a hammer drill

Continuing to repair the toilet with our own hands, we move on to thoroughly cleaning all surfaces - walls, floor, ceiling.

All the old ones are removed tile. It's good if you have a hammer drill at your disposal. If not, you will have to work with a hammer and chisel.

Wallpaper, layers are removed old paint or whitewash on the walls and ceiling. Special attention You need to pay attention to “weak” areas with peeling or rising plaster. Fights back old tile on the floor - to a clean concrete base.

After cleaning and complete removal of debris and dust, all surfaces are thoroughly primed. It is recommended to use compounds with good waterproofing properties on the floor. If there are any on the walls problem areas with traces of dampness, mold fungus, you need to use special aseptic soils.

Installation of plumbing communications

Removed the toilet

Before you begin to restore beauty, it is necessary to thoroughly inspect the condition of all water and sewer pipes. It is better to replace old cast iron and steel risers with polymer ones - ideal option will agree with the upper and lower neighbors to simultaneously carry out this operation.

Wiring steel pipes Now, probably, no one is walking around the apartment anymore. Modern polypropylene materials They allow you to do this easily and efficiently; pipes are easy to remove even in the thickness of the wall.

• It is immediately necessary to provide for the installation of all necessary water measuring devices, valves, filters, pipes for connecting the tank and, if necessary, the washbasin.
• It is better to carry out plumbing wiring compactly, taking into account its further covering with finishing and the possibility of access to its components for control inspections or taking readings.

Alignment of walls

If it is completely crooked, it is better to use drywall

Leveling surfaces, preparing them for final finishing- a stage that cannot be avoided when repairing a toilet. The overall aesthetic appearance of the room will largely depend on the quality of this operation.

If the walls do not have significant curvature or large-scale defects, then you can limit yourself to carefully filling them, followed by sanding and priming. However, this is extremely rare in old high-rise buildings.

To achieve the correct geometry, you can level them using plaster along the installed beacons. Carrying out such work requires a certain skill, and it may not be possible to obtain a high-quality surface right away.

The optimal solution would be to use drywall (gypsum board). It can be attached either to guides or directly to glue. At the same time, boxes are constructed that reliably hide plumbing communications from view. The only possible disadvantage of gypsum board is that it “eats” a little usable area premises. Better to use for the toilet moisture resistant drywall(blue color).

After installing the drywall, all seams, places where screws are screwed in, dents, scratches, etc. are carefully puttied. The surface will be ready for priming. .

Video on how to level walls using drywall:

Leveling the floor

This is the type of roller used when laying self-leveling floors

There is a universal method for leveling the floor surface - a device concrete screed. Of course, it is quite applicable in the conditions of the toilet room. But do not forget that the period of its complete hardening is very significant. The small area of ​​the room makes it inexpensive and effective technique application of self-leveling mixtures on cement based.

Such materials are available in several versions. For initial filling, mixtures with a fine (up to 1 mm) sand fraction are suitable - the layer thickness is approximately 1-2 centimeters. The composition is diluted in accordance with the technology indicated on the packaging, distributed in an even layer over the floor, leveled using a special needle roller to remove air bubbles.

Video - laying self-leveling floor:

Within a day, you can pour the top, finishing layer of the finishing self-leveling composition, adhering to the same technology. The surface will be horizontal and perfectly smooth.

It is worth noting that there are similar mixtures with the addition of polyurethane or epoxy compound. The floors are obtained with a pleasant polymer texture of the chosen color, which will eliminate the need for further laying of tiles on them.

Laying tiles

Don't forget to use a level!

This is one of the most important stages of finishing a toilet room. Perhaps, without the relevant experience, things won’t work out right away - you can make a lot of mistakes, and it’s better to entrust this matter to specialists. But however, with effort and consistency, everything should work out in the end.

The tiles are laid in order, from bottom to top, from the corner. To maintain the horizontality of the rows, it is better to initially attach a level rail to the bottom, aligning it level. It will become the basis for the bottom row.

The glue is applied with a notched trowel to the wall surface. The gaps between adjacent tiles are maintained using special inserts - crosses, which are removed only after the tiles are securely fixed to the surface.

During work, regularly use a level to check the correctness of laying the tiles on the floor, in order to avoid the appearance of steps, differences, and deviations from the vertical or horizontal.

Inevitably you will have to face the need to trim tiles. It's best if you have a tile cutter at your disposal. You can use special cutting discs for grinders.

After the glue has been completely laid and dried, the tile joints are filled using a special compound (fugue) and a rubber spatula. The remains of the fugue are removed with a damp cloth or sponge.

Ceiling

Video - toilet repair with panels -:

There are no special restrictions at this stage of work. Some people simply carefully level its surface and paint it with water-based emulsion. Others prefer to build a suspended ceiling using metal profiles, plasterboard or plastic panels.

The good thing about a suspended ceiling is that you can very successfully place point or strip ceilings in it. LED lights, which will give the toilet room a unique look.

There is a use case stretch ceiling. However, when repairing a toilet with your own hands, in this case you cannot do without special knowledge and equipment.

Toilet installation

Putting it back is usually easier than removing it

One of the procedures that completes a toilet renovation is installing a new toilet. There is nothing particularly complicated about this - the main thing is to follow the plumbing manufacturer's instructions.

It is important to choose the right location and be sure to try on the corrugated pipe in advance, placed both on the toilet and on the socket of the sewer pipe. The installation location is marked with a marker, holes are drilled for fastenings - dowels.

After carefully securing the toilet to the floor, it is installed in place corrugated pipe. It would be advisable to pre-coat the joints with sealant.

All that remains is to figure out the design of the drain tank, install it and connect it to the water supply. Basically, that's all. Little things remain, like a bracket for toilet paper or small decorative elements- and the toilet renovation is completed.

Step-by-step instructions for renovating a bathroom and toilet.

In the opinion of most finishers, you should definitely start renovating an apartment from the bathroom. I’ll explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the renovation, requiring not only dismantling old tiles, plumbing, doors, and sometimes the entire walls of the bathroom.

We remove the old

So, the first thing we do is This means taking out old plumbing fixtures: bathtub, sink, toilet... In short, everything that stands, weighs, lies.

Next stage: Using a grinder, we cut off all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.

Using a hammer drill we knock down old tiles.

It’s important that if the plaster under the tiles comes away from the wall, it’s booming...it also needs to be beaten off.

Dismantling old door with box.

Changing risers. Now we turn our attention to the plumbing and sewer riser And. This is a very important part of the repair and they must be changed. After the renovation this will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but internal wiring You can do the plumbing yourself.

Checking the hood. Let's move on to the hood. If we don’t want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its performance by the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood is not working correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

Preparing the walls and floor

Prime the walls. On next stage I suggest cleaning up thoroughly: take a broom and sweep out all the garbage and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take the primer deep penetration and prime the walls.

We install beacons. After completely dry primers, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Beacons must be installed strictly level, maintaining the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.

Plastering the walls. Have you installed beacons? Let's start plastering. To do this we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer attachment for the drill. Bathrooms are usually plastered with dry gypsum mixtures, fortunately there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. Take a 12 liter bucket and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, spread the mortar between the beacons of one wall, 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the beacons and pull it up - it turns out Smooth surface. We remove unnecessary things from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. If there are any small holes left, it doesn’t matter – we then smooth them out with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, it means you have completed the task.

Leveling the floors. The next stage is the floors. We level them using self-leveling floors. We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, maybe even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors are checked for level, just in case, and any unevenness is corrected.

Making a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? How? and at what altitude? There will be a bathtub, sink, mirror, washing machine (if any), towel dryer, toilet, and a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper and sketch everything out. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to size (I mean that your bathtub is not half the size of a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bathtub needs to be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. – you need to buy a bathtub 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. Let's fix it. This seems to have been sorted out.

Video - turnkey bathtub renovation

We make (sketch) detailed markings of the water supply and sewerage systems. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We assemble a bathtub in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, the height of the legs of most bathtubs is adjustable - we adjust the height to suit ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes going to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink based on the structural features of the cabinet and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. Under washing machine We mark only one pipe – the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a slight slope can be made under the bathtub and sink, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.

We make (sketch) detailed markings of the electrical wiring. The next thing we do is decide on the electrical wiring. How many outlets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to run a wire under it (decide at what height). If there is a fan, we will take it out under it.

Making grooves. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a hammer drill and punch it according to the plan. Next, we clean up and prime the grooves.

We install water supply and sewerage. At the next stage, we install a water supply system (comb) and a sewer system. Don't forget to also install water meters and filters. Since our water supply is hidden in the walls, use better pipes made of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.

We install a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install the heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted into the wall.

We mount the box. So we still have unclosed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from metal profile and cover it with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it Green colour. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install on the corner of our box perforated corner and plaster the entire box.

Prime the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again we look at everything in detail for any irregularities. If there are any, we fix them using a spatula and sandpaper.

Laying out the floor. Now we lay out the floor with tiles. For this we will need a drill, a mixer, a bucket, a regular spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm).

We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. This way we will only have the whole tile visible. Don't forget to use a level and insert crosses.

We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use small tiles, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.

Grinding the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).

Installing a bath. It's time for a bath. We bring the bath in, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. We open the bathtub.

Laying wall tiles. Lay out wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most visible corner, and move in a circle. You need to drill slats from the sides of the bath so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and add the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.

Cleaning the seams.

We rub the seams.

We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, hanging from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, it's up to you to choose.

We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing fixtures - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.

All that remains is to hang the mirror, install sockets and the bath is ready.

This order of work will not allow you to make the most common mistakes, when the quality of the work performed suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.

Happy renovation!

Budget renovation do-it-yourself bathroom and toilet.

Good day, gentlemen and ladies! I want to tell my story of renovating a separate bathroom and toilet. Since the purchase of the apartment, renovation of the bathroom was postponed for 3 years, as other rooms were a priority. The right time had come, the whole family was just on vacation in another city, and I spontaneously decided to come home a month earlier before the end of the vacation to start work. This was at the beginning of 2016. Therefore, all materials were purchased in Mirny; if we had planned in advance, we could have ordered them from the mainland and would have received significant savings. The budget turned out to be around 150 thousand (approximately another +-30 thousand), purely based on materials. The main amount is collected from the bathtub, tiles, and plumbing fixtures. I basically did all the work myself; if others had done it, then you can easily add another 150-200 thousand for the work (probably) to the amount of materials. In our city, all prices are very inflated, this is a fact.

Our house is built in 1996, the square footage is small, the bathroom and balcony are very tiny. But the prices of apartments are the same as in Yakutsk, but the square footage is less.

I’ll probably make a post in the form of a photo report with notes. There were a lot of photos.

Go. Housing problem.

On the floor lay old Soviet square tiles, which were glued either with concrete or super glue, hammered with a hammer drill for 3 days 3 nights). Neighbors, sorry again. There was wallpaper glued to the walls and painted.

A good semi-professional assistant in repairs and carpet cleaning.

I stocked up on tiles. Honestly, I don’t remember how much they cost. Wall ones cost 110 rubles/tile. Russian made. Quality 3 minus. Even in the same box, the dimensions in length and width are different, so when you glue it, the level begins to play. And if you had ordered from the mainland in advance, then for this money you could have ordered branded imported tiles, they say they don’t have such a problem.

A simple toilet, for 7 thousand. Karl. Big mistake.

The bathtub is acrylic, I like it, it’s voluminous. Length 150 cm.

Old bath was metal. cooled down quickly.

Full swing Let's prepare the base of the floor. Application of deep penetration primer. Then a concrete screed.

Neighbor Aunt Lyuba made adjustments from time to time, Soft delicious buns!

Replacement work metal pipes. I called the housing and communal services plumbers, they turned off the water, made 2 transitions from the hot water and cold water risers to plastic, and also installed 2 meters and 1 heated towel rail. Emptying my wallet for 10 thousand.

This photo shows how old metal pipes become clogged.

Behind complete replacement pipes they asked for another 15 thousand rubles. This is without the walls being chipped. And my wife had an interesting idea. After watching an installation video on YouTube polypropylene pipes I decided to do it myself. Bought welding machine for 2 thousand rubles. In principle, nothing complicated. The main thing is not to overexpose the pipes in the welding machine.

I didn't like the paint on the wall. To remove paint I made from 5 liter bottle Here’s a design with a connection to a vacuum cleaner. The result was not particularly pleasing, because... very long, dusty and noisy. I’ll tell you in advance, it’s easier to do it: if the paint comes off on its own, we clean it, then we go through the paint again with a scraper or chisel, then we buy a solution - concrete contact, apply it, and that’s it. The surface becomes flaky, like rough sandpaper. The tile adhesive adheres smoothly to it.

Here are the marks from the grinder on the wall.

Since the floors are very uneven, the slope is 3-5 cm per 1 meter, it is necessary to make an even level using the so-called beacons (green dots on the floor). Then we throw a concrete solution between the beacons and connect the beacons. We will fill the inner squares along these lines.

As a result, we get a flat floor. There will be a bathtub on the right, so I decided to save concrete there and use the legs to level it out.

We glue the tiles, make a 2mm distance between the tiles using crosses. In the future, we fill the space between the tiles with a special grout.

Bath installation. Behind the bathroom I tiled the wall and put a pipe from the faucet there. When you switch the mixer mode to the shower, the water will flow from above. This is the wife's idea.

On the left is a groove for electrical wiring, we connected the washing machine and made sockets. On the right is for the shower. Red is the concrete contact layer.

2 faucets)) The bathroom fills up 2 times faster))

We begin gluing tiles to the wall from the level of the bathtub. First we go through 1 horizontal line, then 2 rows of tiles. You can see how to glue tiles on the Internet, I watched YouTube)). You can find everything there technological process repair.

By the way, our walls are very crooked, sometimes with a propeller, sometimes with an angle... a nightmare. But no one knew how to level the walls and would not have had time to do so. The most difficult areas were the corners. More glue, time and nerves. Now the walls are not crooked at all.

My mistake. I glued the mirror with tile adhesive. The mirror is old from the previous owners.

You can see it very clearly here. At the top the angle is close, and at the bottom it begins to diverge. The problem was solved by grouting and more glue)).

The ceiling is already done. Lighting - 5 point diode lamps, grabs the eyes. The shower was installed, it works well (China), we bought it in Yakutsk, I don’t remember in which store.

The glue dried out and ruined the reflective layer.

Dismantling using your favorite hammer drill.

I bought an ordinary tabletop; in our city we have nothing but ordinary things. Or in Tridoroga they will make it to order “like cool”.

I found a bedside table that was just the right size.

Not a single centimeter between the washing machine and the bathroom. Back to back. My perfectionism is getting high. I installed the tabletop on the corners of the wall and on the bedside table. Holds tight. At least jump.

Voila. The joint was smeared with white sealant.

Here is the final result.

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master finishing technologies, then repairing a toilet with your own hands will be an excellent training for you: small area premises will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the renovation and design of a toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account preparation for finishing, tiling of the floor and walls, and installation suspended ceiling, and installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in episode 137 standard apartments The dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option, using materials that are affordable and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start renovating a toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into decent shape, first of all we will remove old finishing. For this:

1. We dismantle the toilet by disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that secures the product to the floor.
2. We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them too.
3. We remove the old finish - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a hammer drill or a drill with an attachment in the form of a stiff wire brush.

1. When a complete reconstruction is planned, we dismantle and old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep grooves, then they do not need to be removed - just turn off the power to the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
2. After removal construction waste We treat surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing is completed.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

IN panel house In a typical building, very often it is in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a complex reconstruction, this is where it is worth laying the distribution unit, hiding all the pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When renovating a toilet, I usually do this:

1. First I lay sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, so it can be laid with minimum slope towards the drain. I select the pipe for direct connection so that it matches the configuration of the toilet outlet - straight or inclined.
2. At the same stage I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that the slope is maintained at about 2 cm per linear meter.

1. I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect the outlet for the drain tank. If you plan to install a washbasin in the bathroom (such options are implemented during visits to larger area) – I make two separate outlets with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate grooves for the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you don’t plan to install it right now), immediately lay the piping for its installation.

1. I lay the wiring for installing the socket for the water heater in a groove. For lighting along the ceiling, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

1. From wooden beam, impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box to mask risers, pipework and other elements. It is worth sheathing it immediately before finishing - this way we will not damage the gypsum board during other work.

Actually, on this preparatory operations are ending. After this we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to renovate a toilet, we first need to approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice the most different schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to waste time masking already finished surfaces with film, cloth, newspapers, etc.

It is based on these considerations that I prefer to start with ceiling repairs:

1. Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat out an even line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The indentation depends on the dimensions of the recessed luminaires. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

1. Along the line I install on the walls either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam.
2. I attach guides to the ceiling using metal hangers: I also make them either from timber or from a metal profile. All parts are fixed to the load-bearing surfaces using dowels for express installation.
3. After completing work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

1. To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with groove for plastic panels. To attach to wood, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer in using a construction stapler.
2. The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- this is the ceiling lining plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, and then install it on the ceiling: the ends need to be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks must be secured to the frame beams using a stapler.

1. In the selected location, I make a hole in the plastic panel through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually install the device itself at the very end of the repair, so for lighting a temporary structure is used from an incandescent lamp with a socket taped to the wires with electrical tape.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option here there will be tiling: the small area significantly reduces purchasing costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finishing is hygienic and durable.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

1. I check the walls using a level, and if necessary, I do rough alignment. For high-quality cladding, it is important that differences in plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a hammer drill, and then sand them concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, especially in a room like a bathroom, is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.

1. I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
2. I cover the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
3. I soak the tiles in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to significantly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

1. I'm cooking glue mixture, diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly using a drill attachment: this needs to be done at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now let's start with the cladding:

1. I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between the rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
2. Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. Using the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves to evenly distribute the composition.
3. It is important not to apply glue to too large an area. Focus on the speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
4. According to the markings, I apply the tiles to the wall, press them and level them. Using a spatula, carefully remove any protruding excess glue.
5. To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic spacer crosses.

Wall tiles are laid in rows, from top to bottom. To obtain a beautiful pattern, you can arrange the elements offset - with tiles in each next row shifted by 1/2 width. The accuracy of installation is checked using a level and plumb line; if necessary, the position of tiles is adjusted and added/removed adhesive composition.

After finishing the cladding, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I grout the seams. Grout is a paste that is used to fill the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I'll be left with the last one, clean cosmetic stage: Wash the tiles and wipe them with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough and promptly removed excess glue and grout from the surface, then this task will not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the toilet floor with my own hands, I usually assess its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work is floor covering carried out before finishing the walls.

1. To begin with, I once again clean the base from dust and debris and impregnate it with a penetrating primer.
2. Then I apply a waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the rooms underneath from leaks, so it is worth forming a so-called “trough” here - covering not only the floor, but also the walls with waterproofing to a height of about 15 cm.

1. I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick on top of the waterproofing. For pouring I use self-leveling compounds with fast hardening: their price is higher than that of a standard cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and significantly.

1. After the screed has dried (in the best case, it will take three to four days, in the worst case, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks), I treat the floor surface with soil.
2. For work I choose only floor tiles: It is both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be rebuilt.

1. Using a trowel, I apply cement-based tile adhesive to the base. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over a surface of approximately 1 m2 and begin cladding.
2. I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating them in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
3. As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacer inserts.

1. After tiling, I let the glue dry, grout the seams, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The toilet repair itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. There are no special difficulties expected here, but you will have to work hard, especially if in addition to the toilet you also need a washstand:

1. We install the toilet on the floor in the selected location, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
2. We make marks at the location of the mounting holes, remove the toilet bowl and use a hammer drill to drill sockets to secure the product.

1. We hammer dowels into the sockets, install the toilet in place and fix it with anchor bolts. In this case, we either insert the toilet outlet directly into the sewer pipe or connect it to it using a flexible corrugation.

1. We install a tank on top, which we secure to the base with screws and cap nuts.
2. We connect a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
3. We place the sink against the wall and mark the mounting points.
4. According to the markings, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet, we hammer plastic dowels.

1. Next, we either attach brackets to the wall on which we install the washbasin, or we fix the sink itself to the base using anchors with cap nuts.
2. We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
3. We install the mixer, connecting flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
4. After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the functionality of the system and check for leaks.
5. Then we take the prepared recessed lamps, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

Cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much a bathroom renovation will cost, you need to know its area, what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing ourselves or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate calculations, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting into the budget about 30% more funds than what is calculated.

To make budgeting easier, I advise you to use a table containing approximate prices for materials used in bathroom renovations. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as a basis), but it gives a full idea of ​​the order of numbers:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Self-leveling floor mixture	25 kg	280 – 750
Budget tiles for walls	m2	45 — 90
Mid-price wall tiles	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for interior work	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling cladding	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm	1 linear m	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 linear m	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 linear m	70 — 120
Crimping fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer tap with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washbasin Santeri	PC.	900
Compact toilet Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, we need to take into account that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealant, gaskets, etc. So the budget margin mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of testing ground for the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. By focusing on the recommendations given, tips in the comments and videos in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skills, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

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