When it comes to insulating a bathhouse, for most cases the best is, because this method is the most common and effective. Insulation from the outside is more typical for residential buildings.

To provide the most complete and objective information, we will consider and possible options insulation of baths from the outside. The choice of insulation is being considered.

How necessary is it to insulate a bathhouse from the outside?

A bathhouse is a structure that is used periodically, and, accordingly, it is heated in the same mode. This is the main and fundamental difference from residential buildings, which have a constant source of heat.

If we limit ourselves only to external insulation, a situation will arise when, when heating a bathhouse, only the walls, floor and ceiling will be heated first (insulation materials for the ceiling are presented and analyzed).

And only after they warm up will the air inside begin to warm up. And this automatically causes increased consumption fuel and time to fire the bathhouse.

When might this be needed?

As a mandatory recommendation, when an outdoor bath is required, we can name a situation when the bath combines its purpose and residential, i.e. The bathhouse is additionally used as a place to stay. In this case, yes, external insulation is appropriate for the above reasons.

In addition, the insulation of the bathhouse from the outside goes well with the treatment of the building with finishing materials, which will allow you to create a single ensemble on the site with other buildings in terms of design and design.

Advice! To summarize, we emphasize: if the bathhouse is not residential, there is no need, and even moreover, it may be unreasonable to insulate the bathhouse from the outside!

Useful video

Watch the video where the principles of insulation of internal and external insulation of a bathhouse are clearly explained, it is very instructive:

External insulation of a bath: what do you need to know?

In our article we will talk about the technology and procedure for insulating a bathhouse from the outside. You can make your own decision about the need for such actions, based on the information provided.

Basic principles for creating an insulation pie

First of all, it must be said that if you decide to insulate the bathhouse from the outside, then do not forget to use steam and windproof layers.

The correct insulation “pie” should look like this:

1. sheathing for separating pieces of insulation and then attaching the remaining layers to it and finishing;
2. insulation(everyone decides for themselves);
3. wind protection;
4. counter-lattice(not mandatory, but guarantees the presence of a ventilation gap, otherwise you will have to adjust it “by eye”);
5. finishing materials.

Insulation of bathhouse walls from the outside: technology

As for the internal insulation of a bathhouse, so for the external one, the main criterion determining the procedure is the material from which the bathhouse is built. Depending on this, heat-insulating materials, their thickness and method of application differ.

Brick baths

As an additional recommendation, we can recommend brick lining as an element decorative finishing. Moreover, we recommend laying the layer of bricks not close to the load-bearing wall, but leaving a large ventilation gap, which can be left empty or filled with loose insulation: sawdust, expanded clay, etc.

The only negative is the need to constantly maintain a positive temperature, otherwise freezing is possible and the brick wall may “lead” when thawed.

From cinder blocks

Insulation outer wall baths made of cinder blocks are similar to the first two options, finishing materials are yours. The wood finish looks very nice: imitation logs (block house), imitation timber, etc. The bathhouse looks like wood, but has the durability of stone.

Frame bath

A frame bathhouse does not require full insulation from the outside at all, because... all heat-insulating tasks are performed by the insulation located inside the frame.

On the outside, it is enough to install layers of steam and wind protection and waterproofing, as well as finishing with finishing materials. The choice of which, as already mentioned, is extensive.

Don't forget to process wooden materials special compounds to extend their service life and preserve their decorative properties.

Insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside

Most clients prefer to entrust bath insulation to specialists. Employees of companies offering provide insulation services for buildings of various types.

In contact with

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is mandatory conditions to maintain a high temperature in the steam room and ensure a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy-efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic bricks, laminated veneer lumber) need to be insulated. And this applies primarily to structures built using traditional technology.

In this article I will present the algorithms that I use myself when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall decoration with polymer panels

Getting started thermal insulation work in the bathhouse, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by performing high-quality insulation on the outside with our own hands, we will provide additional protection against thermal energy loss.

This means that in order to obtain the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it doesn’t matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the costs of insulating the outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out according to two schemes. There is no universal option, but I prefer to finish buildings made of brick or concrete blocks with foam plastic or polystyrene followed by plaster, and insulate a wooden bathhouse using the “ventilated facade” technology.

First, let's figure out how a brick bathhouse needs to be prepared for finishing:

1. I clean the walls, checking the seams between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with adhesive composition. If we neglect the primer, then before we can blink an eye, it’s like a brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics(and polymer boards allow air to pass through very poorly), salt will appear, destroying the load-bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped base profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will prevent the insulation from sliding down under its own weight.

1. I glue panels of thermal insulation material - polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - onto the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using an adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose insulation for a bath based on its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on both the type of material and its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient on the outside.

1. Next, I take a hammer drill with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill penetrates 40-50 mm into the wall. I fix the foam with dowel umbrellas, strengthening the adhesive fasteners.

1. I plaster the insulation, reinforcing the structure with alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I grout the plaster and paint the outside of the walls with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bathhouse is made of timber or logs, or is built according to frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious advantage of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which insulation to choose for a frame bath, you should focus on mineral fiber-based slabs.

The operating algorithm will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. First, we need to put the walls themselves in order - clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of damage to the wood, then these areas must be sanitized, and if defects are severe, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it is pointless to insulate a rotten bathhouse, since under a layer of heat-insulating material the process of wood destruction will go many times faster.

1. Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or it will hurt.

1. We attach the sheathing panels to the brackets. They are made either from timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a galvanized steel profile. Despite the fact that timber is more prone to deformation, I prefer to insulate the bathhouse precisely according to wooden sheathing: after all, metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a “cold bridge” .

1. Next, we place heat-insulating material into the cells of the sheathing. When deciding which is best for a frame bath, I settled on medium-density mineral wool (up to 45 kg/m3). But I know of cases where ecowool was sprayed onto the walls outside (as well as into the internal cavities of the frame) instead of basalt fiber slabs - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool holds perfectly in the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed it somewhat loses its heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool slabs (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several disc-shaped dowels.

1. Insulation for frame, timber or log bathhouse Be sure to cover it with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, since otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the thermal insulation layer.
2. Then everything depends on the dimensions of our sheathing. If we did it with a reserve and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the insulation layer and the edge of the frame, then we immediately move on to the sheathing. If there is no reserve, then we press thermal insulation panels counter-lattice beams (I use parts with a 40x40 section): a block house, false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

An uninsulated bathhouse roof is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by thermally insulating the ceiling, but it is advisable to finish the roof slopes themselves with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We proceed like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (in my mind it should be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof, vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, you almost always have to dismantle at least part roofing material, therefore the waterproofing procedure should be performed at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. We treat the rafters themselves and the elements of the roof sheathing with an antiseptic (again, this should be done earlier).
2. We lay thermal insulation material in the gaps between the rafters on the inside. The best choice for do-it-yourself roof insulation is basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. To additionally secure the entire structure, we either stuff cross-bars of counter-lattice onto the rafters, or we fill the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a fairly neat-looking attic.

Interior decoration

We insulate the floor

The answer to the question of how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside is no less complicated. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor covering:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing felt, on which we install support beams for the logs.

If the floor in the bathhouse is made on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The bedding is carefully compacted, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We lay logs on the support beams, the ends of which are secured to the walls of the room.
2. Cover the space between the joists with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss will be through the lower layer of air in the room.
3. We cover the expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, you can lay a rough flooring on top of the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. We lay panels of thermal insulation material between the joists. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then we can use polystyrene foam or even get by with polystyrene foam, but for the steam room only mineral wool is suitable - it is important that the material is insensitive to high temperatures.

1. We lay a waterproofing, vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation. Quality hydro- and vapor barriers very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of insulation contact with water.
2. Next, we lay the subfloor, and then arrange flooring from solid board or from ceramic tiles. The board is “warmer” and more pleasant to the touch, but the tiles are easier to clean and less susceptible to swelling when wet, so the choice is yours!

Finishing the walls

When covering a steam room, relaxation room and dressing room with our own hands, we must take care not only of their insulation, but also of protecting the thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. From this point of view, the steam room is the most complex room, so I will talk about the technology using its example:

1. I prime the walls with a moisture-proof antiseptic compound.
2. I install sheathing beams on the walls so that the distance from the edge of the beam to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

When choosing which insulation is best for a steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-flammable material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer boards are not suitable here, and I wouldn’t risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (in the dressing room it can be less).

1. I place slabs or rolls of insulation in the cells of the sheathing, making sure that the fibers experience minimal compressive load.
2. I cover the thermal insulation with vapor barrier material on top. For most premises will suit and a regular membrane, but in a steam room a foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating would be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protecting mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat inside the steam room and providing significant energy savings.

1. I separately insulate the slopes: both the windows and windows need to be made as airtight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bathhouse, and on a steamed body - an almost guaranteed cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I arrange the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation air gap between the sheathing and insulation.

1. I install decorative panels on the counter-lattice. For a steam room, it is usually practiced to be covered with clapboard made of alder, poplar or other hardwoods, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can use fairly cheap pine.
2. I also impregnate the decorative cladding with a moisture-proofing compound to prevent it from rotting and reduce the deformation of wet wood due to temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

Both log, frame, and brick bathhouses also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if the ceiling is insulated inside using approximately the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the attic side, you can use another technique:

1. We lay two layers of fiberglass on top of the rough ceiling - it will act as a barrier to liquid.
2. Prepare a thermal insulation solution: mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw in a 1:1 ratio, then fill the material with water and mix until it becomes a thick dough.

1. Pour the solution between ceiling beams, making sure that liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick process, it may take several weeks), and then lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. We cover the thermal insulation material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in a cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we create a multi-layer cake with our own hands, which practically does not allow heat to pass through.

Conclusion

Insulating a bathhouse is a whole complex of works that (of course, if implemented correctly) will minimize all heat loss, reduce the cost of heating a steam room, and, most importantly, ensure stable heat, for which we actually go to the bathhouse!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and complex issues you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

When building a bathhouse (no matter - brick, wood, expanded clay concrete blocks or any other material), you need to worry not only about the construction of a durable and reliable design. An equally important issue is thermal insulation - protecting the building from heat loss. Thermal insulation of a bathhouse with your own hands is quite simple but according to certain rules.

The process of insulating bath walls from the outside

This is an important nuance for any building, but for a bathhouse, due to the need to maintain high temperatures, it is most relevant.

It doesn’t matter what kind of building you have - a small “box” of blocks covered with corrugated sheeting, or a whole house with recreation rooms - you need to carry out work on both sides: both inside and outside the building.

1 About the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

The atmosphere in the steam room can be described in two words: hot and humid. To be precise, the temperature in the bathhouse (we will consider the traditional Russian one as an example) reaches about +80 degrees (or even higher - up to +90), and the humidity is about 70%.

It goes without saying that such conditions are not easy to maintain, and this depends not only on the power of the stove. You can install even the most expensive unit, but if the bathhouse is not properly insulated, it will not be of much use.

It simply won’t be possible to create the necessary conditions, and if they do, it will be very difficult to maintain them: the heated air will easily escape outside. To summarize the above, we can form next list disadvantages of lack of insulation:

• increased heating costs (it doesn’t matter what exactly the stove runs on - much more fuel will be needed, which means you will have to pay more);
• accelerated equipment wear (due to the fact that the furnace will have to be loaded more);
• Slow heating of the steam room.

In addition, we should not forget about the negative impact of moisture and cold on the building itself. Regardless of what it is - brick or expanded clay concrete blocks - in any case the building will deteriorate.

This happens due to the fact that in winter (or generally at sub-zero temperatures), moisture entering micropores, as well as cracks, joints and holes, freezes, while increasing in volume. At the same time, you cannot ignore the insulation of the floor in the bathhouse.

And since more than one hundred such freezing-thawing cycles can occur during a season (!), in just a few years the surface of the walls will be covered with a network of cracks, and over the years the process will accelerate.

The process of insulating the walls of a bathhouse with mineral wool from the outside

Add here the sharp temperature drop that occurs during the heating of the steam room: let’s say it’s -30 outside, and the temperature of the walls will quickly, literally within an hour (depending on what your bathhouse is made of and how powerful the stove is), will rise to +70 and above. It goes without saying that a difference of about a hundred degrees will also not be useful for construction.

1.1 Why insulate outside?

When insulating a bathhouse, done with your own hands, many often believe that the first step is to insulate the steam room from the inside. This is true - after all, it is in this room that you need to maintain desired temperature. Insulation for saunas and baths Izover Sauna can serve as an excellent material.

However, the use of only internal insulation shifts the dew point - it ends up just between the insulation and the surface of the walls. As a result, moisture begins to accumulate, and the building itself, again, remains unprotected.

So, in addition to internal work, do not forget that insulating a bathhouse from the outside is an equally important and pressing issue. In addition, additional thermal insulation will not be superfluous - using another layer of insulation on the outside of the walls will further improve the microclimate inside the steam room. By the way, insulating a steam room with your own hands is quite simple

2 How to insulate?

To insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you cannot use any insulation - materials that are afraid of moisture are not recommended. And if used, then with serious and properly used waterproofing.

Outside, things are better - there is no exposure to so much moisture, which means the choice of materials that can be used increases. For walls (it doesn’t matter what kind of bathhouse you have – brick, or made of expanded clay concrete blocks), it is most important to use any insulation from the list below:

The first two materials can be used with your own hands: such insulators do not require special knowledge and experience. The third insulation will already require the services of specialists. Let's take a closer look at each of the mentioned insulators and figure out exactly how to use them with your own hands to insulate walls.

2.2 Insulation using mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool insulation has been used for several decades, and judging by the fact that the number of products on this basis continues to grow, there is still a demand for it. An alternative to mineral wool is Rockwool Sauna Butts for baths.

Despite the fact that there are now many other insulators that are higher quality, more reliable and easier to use, such materials are still relevant.

Mineral wool is usually sold in rolls or slabs. For walls, of course, the second option is more convenient - rolls are best used for horizontal surfaces. In addition, it can be used to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse.

The thermal conductivity of the product is not the best: this indicator is around 0.04 W/mK (depending on the type and brand). However, since the insulation will be attached from the outside, this is not a significant drawback - it can simply be used in a thick layer. But some properties of mineral wool make it not the most successful material:

• poor resistance to moisture - when exposed to moisture, the material crumples and cakes;
• increased complexity of work (compared to foam plastic);
• the need to use protective equipment for the skin and face.

Among the tangible advantages (besides the relative cheapness) we can highlight the fact that mineral wool can be mounted even on Not flat surface walls with protrusions and height differences.

The process itself, if you do it yourself, looks something like this (the list of steps is the same for both a brick bathhouse and a building made from expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - there should be no cracks, chips or holes on them. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster.
2. Wooden sheathing is being installed.
3. A vapor barrier film is glued to the wall (you can skip this point).
4. Insulation is laid between the sheathing.
5. A waterproofing film is stretched over the sheathing (when insulating with mineral wool, this is a mandatory nuance).
6. Installation of facing material is in progress.

2.4 Insulation with foam or polystyrene foam

Insulators from the category of gas-filled plastics have also been known for quite a long time. The brightest and most popular representative is ordinary polystyrene foam. This insulation is extremely easy to use - you can easily install the blocks yourself, even if you didn’t even know how to do it before.

It is not surprising that this particular material is widely and universally used for insulating various parts of buildings, including as insulation for saunas.

Its higher quality and more efficient “brother” is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation has better thermal conductivity (approximately 0.03-0.035 versus 0.04 for polystyrene foam) and is completely resistant to moisture. By the way, the thermal insulation of baths and saunas can be done with his participation.

The materials themselves are similar in appearance, light in weight (which, again, simplifies DIY work) and are absolutely identical in terms of application. By the way, as for the work itself, such insulation does not require any precautions (like mineral wool).

However, laying blocks requires a perfectly flat surface, which complicates the process somewhat. The sequence of do-it-yourself actions is as follows (the same for both a brick building and a structure made of expanded clay concrete blocks):

1. The surface of the walls is checked - there should be no cracks, chips or holes on them. If there are any, they should be sealed with plaster, then insulation for the walls of the bathhouse is applied.
2. The surface of the walls is primed at least once.
3. Starting from the bottom corner (any) and moving sideways, the foam/EPS is glued to the surface using a special adhesive solution (sold in the same place as the insulation itself).
4. Each of the blocks is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws (approximately 5 pieces per 1 sheet).
5. The joints between the sheets are taped or foamed. Alternatively, you can simply cover them with plaster.
6. A waterproofing film is stretched over the insulation onto the sheathing.
7. Installation of the facing layer and further finishing are carried out.

2.6 Insulation using sprayed polyurethane foam

A relatively new insulation technology is spraying polyurethane foam. This insulator is a liquid insulator - it is obtained by mixing two components. Preparation is carried out directly at the work site, in a special installation.

The container of such units is equipped with a stirrer to maintain the desired consistency of the solution. Higher quality and more expensive models are also equipped with heating (necessary for the same purposes).

The selection of insulation for a bath can be based on this material. The insulation itself can safely be called ideal: it is lightweight, not afraid of moisture or any other negative factors (rodents, mold), and has minimal thermal conductivity (around 0.025 W/mK).

In addition, the surface of expanded clay concrete (or any other) walls does not require leveling, and the resulting insulation layer is monolithic and has no seams or joints.

Its main disadvantage is the impossibility of using it yourself: the above-mentioned special installation is expensive. And the spraying service itself is also expensive.

To familiarize yourself, here is the sequence of actions when using this technology:

1. The surface is checked for cracks and chips. If available, they are covered with plaster.
2. PPU is being prepared.
3. The sheathing is mounted on the wall.
4. PPU is sprayed onto the surface.
5. On top of the insulation, along the sheathing, the cladding is installed and further finishing is carried out.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands - purpose, advantages. Stages, options for insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands.

How to do it correctly

Of course, a bathhouse should not only be comfortable and durable, but also beautiful. Agree, during construction it is not enough to provide only these conditions; you should also think about effective thermal insulation, on which the heating time of the premises, the amount of heat loss and fuel consumed will depend.

Insulation scheme for a brick bath.

In order to maintain a favorable inside temperature regime, you will have to properly insulate the bathhouse from the outside.

Proper insulation should be carried out taking into account the following factors:

• the material from which the bathhouse is built. Insulation methods for brick and wooden buildings are different;
• type of insulation. This can be the most common moss or felt for a log bath, or modern bulk, mineral, and foam materials can be used.

How to insulate your own bathhouse?

Bathhouse roof insulation scheme.

In order to insulate the outside of a bathhouse, you can use the most various materials, among which:

1. Natural (fluff, felt, cotton wool, moss). They are mainly used for insulating baths built from wooden frames. In this case, the material is carefully placed between individual logs.
2. Backfills. Such insulation materials include materials that are small granules various sizes, densities obtained as a result of foaming or other technological processes. Such thermal insulation materials can be applied in several ways, for example, by spraying with water.
3. Blocks. These are small, fairly lightweight slabs of specially foamed material. Such products include, for example, foam glass.
4. Cotton wool. Such insulation consists of fluffed amorphous fibers. These include, for example, mineral, stone wool, glass-based insulation, etc.
5. The rolls are somewhat reminiscent of thin layers of quilted cotton wool. They are very convenient to use.
6. Plates. Similar to rolled materials, only made in the form of large slabs of a certain size.
7. Foil is a thin film with a special metal coating, excellent for insulating baths outside and inside.
8. Liquids are special suspensions in the form of foamed granules. After application, a durable elastic polymer coating remains on the surface. Most often used for hard-to-reach places.

To insulate a bathhouse, not any type of insulation is suitable, but only one that meets certain requirements:

• increased resistance to high temperatures;
• the insulation should not absorb moisture;
• no deformation of the material during use, that is, the insulation should not roll or fall off;
• the insulation should not be susceptible to rotting or attacks by rodents;
• environmental friendliness.

Mineral insulation or cellular insulation?

Scheme for laying mineral wool.

Now let's look at materials that are excellent for external insulation of baths. These include products created on the basis of 100% natural fibers: wool felt, moss, hemp, flax tow. Such materials for caulking are environmentally friendly, they are easily compacted during the work process, and provide excellent air exchange.

Quite often, red moss is used for log houses, which is not susceptible to rotting. As a rule, the length of its fibers is 15-30 cm, which is very convenient. Moss called cuckoo flax and sphagnum are also used. All these materials are available and cheap: a forty-kilogram bag of such construction moss will cost only three hundred rubles.

Jute is also popular for insulating baths, which is used for insulating crowns and caulking the entire structure. Jute felt, felt made from a mixture of flax and jute, and flax batting are also suitable for log houses. These materials are elastic, dense strips that are easy to install and completely cover the seams between the logs.

Their cost is also low: a jute fabric with a length of up to 20 meters costs about 100 rubles, a roll of flax wool will cost 520-750 rubles.

Important! The insulation process (caulking) is carried out at the stage of assembling a wooden frame; the grooves and gaps are insulated after the completion of construction work on the roof. This process is carried out at least twice, the second time being a year after the construction of the bathhouse.

Layer diagram for insulating a wooden bath.

For external insulation Brick and concrete buildings use mineral insulation, which is soft slabs or mats made of mineral wool.

Such plates have flexible and thin fibers from mineral melts in their structure. All wool is divided into stone and slag; this classification depends on the material of manufacture.

Main advantages mineral insulation are:

• non-flammability;
• environmental friendliness;
• the material does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting;
• has a low cost (500-1000 rubles per package).

In addition to mineral wool, glass wool is also used, which has excellent thermal insulation properties, strength, and elasticity.

Among plastic-based products that are suitable for external insulation of baths, we can distinguish foam and cellular (foam plastic), porous, honeycomb (hot plastic). The most commonly used material is polystyrene foam, which is characterized by strength, density, and low thermal conductivity.

Among modern materials for insulating baths, foam glass can also be noted, which, despite its rather high cost (up to ten thousand rubles), is one of the best materials. This insulation absorbs sound, is easy to process, non-flammable, water resistant, very strong and durable.

Options for insulating a bath outside

An option for insulating a bathhouse from the outside.

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside is not a very complicated process; you just need to comply with the requirements for such work.

The choice of material for insulation occurs before construction begins.

It will depend on what the bathhouse will be constructed from (wood, stone, brick, concrete).

For example, for wooden structures Insulation should be carried out directly during the construction process, and not after it, as is possible for brick baths.

Let's consider methods of external insulation for a bathhouse made of wood and brick in more detail.

Wooden baths

Natural materials are used for wooden baths, including red moss, tow, flax fiber, and jute. When working, this material fits tightly, it ensures tightness, and the seam is even.

External insulation work should be carried out during the construction process, when natural fibrous material is installed between the stacked logs. After installing the roof, you can begin caulking the grooves and various gaps. In this case, it is recommended to use tape insulation, which ensures the stability of the structure, strength, and durability.

Brick baths

Note! For brick baths, as well as for concrete, stone, and wooden frame baths, mineral insulation is usually used.

Such slabs or sheets are laid on a prepared sheathing, fixed to external walls. On the one hand, it is recommended to cover them with foil, which provides a vapor barrier.

When insulating a bathhouse from the outside, careful compliance with all requirements and standards will be required. Only this will allow all the work to be completed efficiently, the bathhouse will not quickly lose heat, and it will be easy and quick to warm it up. We offer some useful tips for insulating a bathhouse, which will certainly help many.

1. When insulating the outside, we must not forget about the foundation of the structure. It can be insulated using special mineral mats. A layer of expanded clay or slag should be laid under the floor; ventilation holes are required in the foundation itself.
2. Between external wall and interior decoration, especially in the steam room and washing department, it is necessary to make a layer of vapor barrier. For this, it is recommended to use foil; for rest rooms, kraft paper can be effectively used for the same purpose.
3. In order to avoid negative influence a pair for the entire structure, recommended wooden baths coat the top with a mixture of clay and sawdust.
4. Some of the heat escapes through the cracks in the windows. To prevent this from happening, you should use non-combustible materials along the contour of the window and under the window sill to caulk all the places. The frames themselves must fit very tightly to the window frames, which will prevent the glass from fogging up.

We wish your bathhouse to be the warmest and most comfortable.

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

In order to maintain a favorable temperature regime inside the building, it is necessary to properly insulate the bathhouse from the outside. We understand the intricacies of the process

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

Why insulate the bathhouse?

It is worth noting that if you have just decided to build a bathhouse, then we recommend that you pay attention to the possibility of organizing a sauna in the basement of a private house - this option will cost much less. Also, when building any bathhouse, you will need to install a chimney - a sandwich type chimney would be a good option.

Insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands allows you to save on heating costs, protect the wood from rotting, dampness and the appearance of fungi, increasing its service life. The use of modern thermal insulation materials will ensure environmental friendliness and fire safety.

Internal insulation of the room will increase the effectiveness of external insulation. It protects the walls from the influence of high temperatures and maintains the temperature regime inside the steam room.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

Not every material is suitable for insulating a bathhouse. Although it is similar to a living space and you can even live in it for some time, nevertheless, the bathhouse has its own specifics in external insulation. The fact is that the walls are subject to periodic use and special temperature conditions. Basically, the bathhouse is used several times a week, heating it to a temperature of 80°C and above. The rest of the time, its walls can freeze in winter to -30°C, depending on climatic conditions.

Different insulating materials are used for external and internal insulation. They also differ in cost and installation technology. For example, sprayed insulation (cellulose and polyurethane foam) requires special equipment and skills to work with it. Insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands will not work this way.

Log caulking

Insulation materials natural origin, such as jute, felt, linen batting, and inorganic origin - mineral glass wool, expanded clay and polystyrene foam are used in both types of insulation.

Jute and flax wool are excellent for caulking log baths. These modern natural insulation materials have a number of positive qualities. They are durable, resistant to rotting and do not accumulate moisture, and also provide a favorable microclimate.

Moss, tow, and felt are also used in inter-crown compaction.

At first glance, it seems that the log house is a hermetically sealed structure, but over time it shrinks. And you can’t do this without high-quality interventional caulking. To do this, you need to know how to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the outside.

Insulation of a wooden bathhouse from the outside occurs in several stages. First, insulation is laid when laying the beams. Six months later, the cracks are stuffed with strands of jute or other material, having previously cleared the gaps of dust and treated them with antiseptic agents. During this time, the logs will shrink, cracks and drafts will appear. Fill the cracks with the same tool - caulk and a special hammer.

Caulking occurs from the bottom up along the perimeter of the bathhouse simultaneously outside and inside the room, so that the frame does not warp. They caulk the frame a third time, when it is completely seated. Then they begin to decorate the room. If the insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is done correctly, then additional insulation of the walls is not required.

Using mineral wool

An uninsulated steam room built of brick cools down faster and takes longer to heat up. It is recommended to use basalt mineral wool for its insulation. It is fire-resistant, absolutely harmless, does not rot and does not attract insects and rodents. Basalt wool is also an excellent heat and sound insulator. Its service life reaches 50 years.

Basalt wool is a type of mineral wool, which includes glass wool, stone and slag wool. These types are also good at insulation, but are slightly inferior to basalt wool in terms of characteristics.

1 - insulation; 2 - diffusion film; 3 - siding

The technology for external insulation of a brick bath wall is as follows:

1. Metal brackets are installed on the wall according to the width of the mineral wool slab. It will be better if the mounting step of the brackets is one centimeter smaller. Thus, the slabs themselves will be held between the brackets. And to do this, applying effort, the cotton wool must be pushed between the corners.

There is no need to skimp on insulation. Ideally, mineral wool is laid in two layers, that is, the thickness should be 10 cm. This will prevent the appearance of “cold” bridges.

2. For better sealing and strength, joints between plates basalt wool should be sealed with construction tape.

3. Mineral wool needs additional protection from moisture. Isospan is placed on top of it.

4. To complete the insulation of the bathhouse from the outside with mineral wool, a wooden frame is mounted to the brackets, to which the decorative trim will be attached. This, in turn, will additionally retain the insulation.

Thermal insulation materials of artificial origin

In the process of building a bathhouse made of bricks or heat blocks, “well” insulation can be used. In this case, the insulation is placed inside the wall. As insulation you can use penoizol, expanded clay, cellulose insulation. The only drawback is that some insulation materials can last 10 years, which means that after this period the quality of the insulation will decrease. To check its condition or change it, you will have to disassemble the wall.

A bathhouse built from wood concrete or fiberboard does not need insulation, and the construction process is simpler. Although the material itself can be used as insulation, it only has a lower density. These insulation materials contain wood, which does not allow heat to pass through it.

Cellulose insulation made from recycled paper has durability and excellent insulating qualities. It does not rot, is fire-resistant and gives off moisture well.

It is worth noting foam glass - the only insulation that combines many properties: strength, frost resistance, ease of installation, environmental friendliness, non-flammability, durability. Foam glass is resistant to acids and bacteria, moisture- and vapor-tight and does not emit smoke when burning. And that's not all of its properties.

Among the insulation materials of artificial origin, the leaders are foamed polymers: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and others. In terms of their thermal insulation properties, these insulation materials are not inferior to materials of natural origin. They are also environmentally friendly, noise-absorbing, waterproof, and have low thermal conductivity. Available in different types, shapes, weights and densities.

Due to its light weight, polystyrene foam is an ideal option for insulating a frame bathhouse with your own hands, which cannot withstand heavy loads. You can simply glue it to the wall and then plaster it. It should be borne in mind that polystyrene foam is very fragile, so thermal insulation must be carried out carefully. By following the link you can find out detailed instructions for wall insulation with foam plastic.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate premises for any purpose, including schools and kindergartens, built from any material, because dishes and toys are made from it. Expanded polystyrene is not afraid of mold and mildew. At 100% humidity it retains its properties.

Let's look at how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam.

For thermal insulation of baths, “wet” and “ventilated” facade technologies are used. The stages of work are slightly similar to each other.

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands: tips on how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bathhouse from the outside? How to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool and expanded polystyrene with your own hands? Tips for insulating a timber bathhouse at the lowest cost.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

Do-it-yourself insulation of bathhouse walls

Proper and effective insulation of bathhouse walls results in rapid warming up. They knew about this back in Rus'. Even at that time, people insulated their baths for better effect. A well-insulated sauna is not only about the speed and quality of heating, but also, most importantly, the health of our body. Today there are quite a lot of specialists in insulating baths, and the quality of their work can be envied. But how to insulate the walls in a bathhouse with your own hands? To do this yourself, it is very important to follow the instructions and do everything correctly.

Features of choosing thermal material depending on the walls

Wooden

For wooden baths, the market offers several thermal material options. But, perhaps, the most optimal is insulation based on mineral fibers. The advantage of the material is off the charts. Ease of installation, versatility, fire safety and good thermal insulation properties. By the way, not so long ago mineral sheets (blocks) appeared on the market, on which foil was glued on one side - this greatly simplifies the work of insulation. It is also necessary to use a waterproofing material.

Insulation of brick walls usually involves the use of mineral and fiberglass wool. Mineral wool serves as the main insulation, based on its performance. Glass wool is most often used to insulate roofs and attics, since its performance, including fire resistance, is much lower than that of mineral wool. You also need to use a hydro and vapor barrier to protect the insulation.

From the total amount of insulation, several suitable materials can be distinguished for insulating a frame bath:

• Reed slabs. Very light, non-flammable, have excellent thermal insulation properties. Before use, it is necessary to soak the slabs in a solution of vitriol (to protect against mice and other pests)
• Polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam - a cheap option
• A mixture of gypsum and sawdust (1:10). A budget option, but no less practical. It is very important that the wood sawdust is well dried.
• For cladding, you can use clapboard or chipboard sheets.

Wall insulation technology

How to insulate walls to ensure correct work and quick heating of the bath? To get the desired result, each wall must be insulated on both sides. In some cases, the outer side is insulated much better and denser than its inner side.

Wooden bath

Insulation of wooden walls is done as follows:

• A sheathing for attaching the insulation is made from a metal profile or timber. We make the grid so that the insulation sheet fits tightly into it. This must be done in order to avoid the appearance of cracks
• IN ready grate we lay insulation (mineral wool is used for wood). You need to carefully push the cotton wool so that there are no gaps between the slabs. If necessary, you can lay the insulation in several layers
• All joints must be glued aluminum tape. This way we will eliminate the slightest heat leaks
• On finished layer insulation, it is necessary to attach bars, this will create an air gap between the insulating material and the vapor barrier
• We fix the vapor barrier.

The final stage is interior decoration. For cladding, you can use a wooden clapboard board. It is enough to treat with oil impregnation.

Brick bath

A brick wall heats up faster than others, but also cools down quickly. It is advisable to insulate brick surfaces on both sides. For outside It would be better to use mineral water.

External insulation technology:

• You need to attach corner brackets to the wall; they will hold the entire insulation layer.
• We insert sheets of mineral wool between the corners of the bracket
• All joints must be taped with aluminum tape.
• We cover the insulated layer with a protective waterproofing layer.

Brackets in the form of corners are used not only to attach insulation to them, they also serve to attach facade cladding.

• We fill the lathing directly onto the wall to fix the waterproofing layer
• We fill the timber, create a timber wall
• We stuff the second layer of sheathing onto our wall
• We stretch fiberglass onto the timber surface. In the area of ​​each beam we make a small overlap, so that later it would be easy to install mineral water
• We insert insulation boards into the sheathing spans. It is advisable to use plates with foil on one side. Or we lay a vapor barrier film over the layer of insulating material. Foil or film is needed to protect insulation material from steam
• The final step is to stuff the lining or other facing material.

Frame bath

The peculiarities of insulating a frame bath are that the insulation of the walls begins from the moment of their construction. In this type of construction, the insulation is part of the frame structure. The wall consists of the following layers:

• Externally – façade cladding
• Inside - decorative lining
• In the middle there is insulation, lined with a layer of vapor barrier on the inside and waterproofing on the outside.

For frame version It is better to use two types of insulation. You can use slabs for the first layer, and rolled material for the second. As for the air gap, it is not advisable to leave it.

The layers should fit tightly to each other for greater heat transfer. All joints of the heat-insulating layer, as in other cases, must be taped with aluminum tape.

Baths made of timber

Insulation of walls in a timber bathhouse must be done both inside and outside. Before starting work, you need to remember the air gap between the wall and the frame.

Before starting work, it is necessary to seal all the cracks between the logs, and the walls must also be treated with a fire-retardant and rot-protective solution. The process of insulating a bathhouse made of timber is very similar to the insulation process for a wooden one: installing a frame, laying insulation with a steam and water barrier, gluing joints, stuffing lining.

Ceiling and floor

The ceiling in the steam room of any bathhouse is insulated almost equally, and it is insulated first. Considering the fact that the steam room contains a large amount of steam, for the ceiling you need to use insulating material twice as thick as for the walls.

• We cover the ceiling with rolled paper. The joints need to be overlapped. We fasten it with timber measuring 50x50 millimeters
• We install thermal material between the beams. Create a double layer
• The next step is to cover it with foil. All joints and edges must be carefully secured.
• We fill the foil with bars for fastening the foil itself and for the further final facing material - lining.

The floor is insulated at the very beginning of construction. I advise you to make the floor from wood: fir, pine, larch. Firstly: it is environmentally friendly, and secondly: wood retains heat longer. The floor can be insulated with flexible mineral wool, slag, expanded clay, or fiberglass wool. In the steam room, the floor does not need to be insulated, since a high temperature is already created in this room.

Insulating bathhouse walls, floors and ceilings is not a simple matter. There are several options for increasing and saving heat in a bathhouse. Experts have different opinions on this issue. The article describes the most optimal and popular methods for different types bath rooms.

Insulating a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands

In the 5th century, the Slavs not only washed in a steam bath, it had great value in many rituals. On Saturdays, both simple peasants and noble princes went to home or public soaps. European scientists and ambassadors to their sovereigns spoke about this tradition more than 400 years ago. Thus, the Russian people became known as the purest among the peoples of European countries.

In addition, Russians are hospitable people who first treated their visiting guests to a bathhouse. The traditions have not changed; the modern Russian bathhouse also combines the French parliament, a gentlemen's club, and a German beer garden.

Until now, the bath remains the most pleasant healing and health procedure. It calms the nerves, rejuvenates, gives freshness, vigor, and clarity of mind. But for this, a good steam room must be heated quickly and keep warm for a long time. Here, insulating the walls of the bathhouse from the outside with your own hands plays an important role, because drafts are not allowed.

Why insulate the bathhouse?

For a long time in Rus', wood was the main building material and for a long time it was used to build living quarters in villages. And now he is given an advantage in construction.

The tree has unique properties, and most importantly, it has low thermal conductivity, which no other natural material can compare with.

Be that as it may, wooden baths also need insulation, just like brick or built from blocks, for which this is a prerequisite.

The main task of thermal insulation of a steam room is to eliminate contact building materials with cold air, protection from snow and rain and elimination of drafts in the steam room.

The “ventilated” facade technology is the most common. And it begins by calculating the amount of insulation and preparing the walls.

At the next stage, polystyrene foam is installed. Sheets of acrylic, cement or polyurethane are glued glue mixture in rows end to end. Large cracks must be foamed with foam.

In the “wet” façade, the surface of the walls is also leveled and sheets of expanded polystyrene are glued. When the insulation is completely dry, it is covered with a reinforcing mesh. After three days, the surface can be covered with starting putty, and then with decorative or finishing putty. You can use warm plaster.

Warm plaster has a special composition - polystyrene foam granules, cement, expanded clay chips, sawdust, plasticizers and other substances. It has excellent thermal insulation properties.

The usual layer for applying such plaster is 2-4 cm. A thicker layer, unable to withstand its own weight, may fall off.

The bathhouse is insulated not only by the walls outside and inside, but also by the floor and ceiling. The process of thermal insulation of a bath does not take much time and is not complicated. And the insulation methods discussed above are applicable for a garage, greenhouse or greenhouse.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands, Stove, bathhouse, sauna

how to insulate a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands Insulating the walls of a bathhouse with your own hands Correct and effective insulation of the walls of a bathhouse accompanies rapid warming up. They knew about this back in Rus'. Even at that time...

Exterior finishing of a bathhouse is necessary to increase the service life of the building, give it an aesthetic appearance and improve performance characteristics. Among the abundance of options offered, it is important to choose the most suitable one.

The content of the article:

It is necessary to carry out external cladding of the bathhouse not only to improve the aesthetic appearance. It is also needed to improve thermal and waterproofing performance, since a bathhouse is a place with high humidity. In addition, if it is located in close proximity to other residential buildings, it is worth choosing a finishing material that will ideally suit the general style of the area on which the bathhouse is located.

Materials for exterior finishing of baths

Depending on the material from which the hygienic building is made, your preferences and finances, the following materials are used to decorate the outside of the bathhouse:

• Vinyl or metal siding . It is environmentally friendly, lightweight, durable and affordable. It is easy to install, resistant to atmospheric, mechanical and temperature influences. Presented in a wide range color palette. They are usually used to cover frame and brick buildings.
• Wooden or plastic lining. Both modifications of the material are characterized by relative cheapness. Easy to install. Suitable for finishing brick baths.
• Block house. It looks like a rounded log. With this finish, the bathhouse will look like a log house.
• Imitation of timber. Durable and durable lumber. It is a type of lining.
• Trimmed and not edged board . Cheap option. Among the shortcomings is the unaesthetic appearance.
• Fake diamond. Has a long service life and can withstand atmospheric influence and mechanical influences. Used to implement interesting design ideas.
• Decorative plaster and cement-sand mortar. Economical option, which is called “fur coat”. It is easy to care for and frost-resistant. Suitable only for baths with a solid foundation due to its heavy weight. Popular in last years“warm plaster” is used.
• OSB panels. Durable, elastic, water-repellent and fire-resistant material. Its installation does not require additional wall insulation.
• Facade tiles. Durable and resistant to external influences. Suitable for finishing any baths.

Please note: bathhouses made of timber and logs can begin to be lined no earlier than in a year and a half. The building must be “stable”. But brick buildings can begin to be faced immediately upon completion of construction.

Features of the exterior finishing of a log bathhouse with your own hands

Log houses usually do not require external finishing. However, to increase the heat-saving characteristics and service life, the wood must be further processed.

The work is carried out in the following way:

1. We make caulk. To do this, hammer the tow into the cracks between the crowns with a hammer and spatula. It is used as insulation.
2. We sand the walls. For quick grinding we use an electric grinder.
3. We carefully treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation.
4. Then we prime the surface and paint it.
5. After drying, we perform retouching (touch up the missed areas).
6. Apply a second coat of paint.

Finishing the outside of the bathhouse with siding

This method is optimal for brick buildings. Installation on wooden baths is not advisable, since the material will interfere natural ventilation wood For cladding we will need: siding panels (from 150 rubles per piece), joining parts, 5*8 ​​cm boards or slats for sheathing, brackets, vapor barrier film (optional), insulation (optional), waterproofing material (preferably isospan).

We carry out siding work in the following order:

• We attach a vapor barrier layer to the wall to protect the heat insulator from condensation.
• We build a sheathing. To do this, we nail 5/8 cm slats to the wall at a distance of up to 30 cm.
• We lay a layer of heat insulation between the profiles and leave a distance of 1–3 cm to the siding.
• We cover the insulation with waterproofing. Optimal material is considered isospan.
• We fix starting bar using self-tapping screws or galvanized nails and installing corner parts.
• We install siding sheets in the corner and starting strips.
• We assemble the panel from bottom to top, joining each part according to the tongue-and-groove pattern.
• The last thing we fix is ​​the finishing strip. We insert the finishing element into it from below.

Siding does not require special care and is easy to clean. And if desired, it can be easily repainted.

Finishing the bathhouse outside with a block house

Several types of this material are used for cladding buildings:

• Natural. Made from deciduous and coniferous wood.
• Metal. Galvanized steel is used for its manufacture.
• Acrylic. Based on polymer resin.
• Vinyl. It is melted from PVC powder.

The finishing of the bathhouse can be done using any type of block house. Additionally, for this you still need: self-tapping screws, clamps 6–7 mm high, insulation ( best option- mineral wool), timber for sheathing, vapor barrier membrane, waterproofing agent, antiseptic impregnation, fire retardant.

Before starting the cladding process, you need to treat all the wood with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Next we carry out the work step by step:

1. We attach the vapor barrier film horizontally with an overlap of 10–15 cm. We fix it with staples and a construction stapler.
2. We also install the sheathing in a horizontal position. Attachment to wooden base We do it using self-tapping screws or nails. On brick wall fix with frame dowels into pre-drilled recesses.
3. We lay insulation between the beams.
4. Using a construction stapler with staples, we attach the waterproofing material.
5. We build a second sheathing on the main frame clearly vertically.
6. We cover its surface with block house elements from the bottom up in a horizontal position.
7. We fix the panels with clamps.
8. After finishing, we hide the heads of the screws. To do this, we use wooden paste made from sawdust and PVA, ready-made plugs or the remains of a block house.
9. We trim the corners with plinths, and window and door openings with cash elements.

Finishing the outside of the bathhouse with warm plaster

This method is used for buildings with a solid foundation. More often cement-sand mortar finishing brick baths. For wooden structures it can only be used after caulking all the cracks. For effective insulation and aesthetic cladding we will need the following materials: 3*5 cm timber for sheathing, umbrella dowels, polystyrene foam, construction adhesive for polystyrene foam, plastic reinforcing mesh, base for “warm plaster”.

We carry out cladding work in the following sequence:

• We stuff the sheathing. To do this, we use bars 3–5 cm thick.
• We attach the insulation panels in a horizontal position with special “umbrella” dowels. The seams should not be located along the same line.
• We lay the second layer of heat insulation vertically. We fix it with foam polystyrene glue.
• We cover the structure with a plastic reinforcing mesh.
• Apply a layer of “warm plaster”.

This finish is easy to maintain and has a long service life.

External cladding of the bathhouse with clapboard

Such material is considered less reliable because it is damaged due to atmospheric influences. For covering a room with wood or plastic lining you need to stock up on brackets, mineral wool mats, dowels, construction adhesive, guides, waterproofing film, and clapboard.

We carry out finishing in the following sequence:

1. We install the brackets horizontally at a distance of up to 50 cm from each other.
2. We decorate the walls with mineral wool mats. To attach them, we use construction glue or dowels.
3. We fix the guides on the brackets and check them with a spirit level.
4. We lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. We attach the paneling with self-tapping screws.

Remember that the lining must have a humidity within 15%. Otherwise, the wet lining, drying out, will form gaps.

And finally, we recommend watching a video about the exterior decoration of the bathhouse:

Instructions for finishing the outside of a bathhouse different ways and photos will help you independently implement any stylistic decision on the facade of the building. Carved details on the openings of windows and doors will help decorate the walls of a traditional Russian bathhouse. You can also decorate the building with openwork cornices and platbands.

This was how it was four hundred years ago, when European ambassadors reported to their sovereigns that Russians are the cleanest people in Europe: they wash themselves in the bathhouse every week. She remains like this to this day.

And this can be confirmed by the fact that both in former times and now, future homeowners, when starting to build their house, began it by erecting a bathhouse on the site. After all, how is a bathhouse different from a residential building? The same walls and roof, the same wood-burning stove, the same benches for sitting and shelves for lying on - everything is the same, only in a reduced size. And you can live in the bathhouse while the main house is being built, and you can heat the water and cook food if necessary.

Is it necessary to insulate the bathhouse?

The traditional material for the construction of baths in Rus' has always been wood. However, not only baths: even at the beginning of the 20th century. wooden buildings made up the overwhelming majority in the total volume of urban development, and in rural areas - only temples were built of stone. But even today, despite the huge number of modern building materials on the market, wood has not lost its popularity due to its unique qualities and, first of all, its unsurpassed low thermal conductivity among natural building materials.

Nevertheless, insulating wooden buildings is not a wasteful expense. It allows you to significantly reduce both heating costs and operating costs for future repairs and reconstruction, and as a result of these savings, additional costs for building materials can be repeatedly justified.

That is why prudent owners have always been attentive to the issues of insulating their buildings, even wooden ones, and for buildings made of concrete, brick and block materials this is a mandatory requirement.

However, Bath insulation has its own specifics and differences from the thermal protection of residential buildings due to inconsistent, episodic operation and special temperature conditions. Typically, bathhouses are used once a week, heating them to extremely high temperatures - 80~120°C and above. The rest of the time, its walls freeze in winter to very low temperatures- -30°C and below. Not every building material can withstand such thermal overloads for a long time.

Therefore, bathhouse premises need be sure to provide internal thermal insulation, which:

• protects wall materials from exposure to high temperatures;
• will maintain the temperature inside the bathhouse for a long time due to reduced heat loss;
• will allow you to quickly heat the bathhouse premises, avoiding unnecessary fuel consumption for warming up frozen walls.

Additionally reduce heat loss and protect walls from exposure to low temperatures External insulation will help. It:

• will shift the temperature zero boundary from the internal volume of the walls outward - into the insulation layer, significantly softening the temperature regime for their material;
• will prevent walls from becoming damp by removing the dew point from their surface;
• Thanks to this, it will eliminate the causes of rotting and the appearance of fungus.

Thus, mandatory internal thermal insulation It is not at all superfluous for the bathhouse premises, and it is even very useful to combine them with external thermal protection.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside

In the modern construction market today it is represented widest choice various heat-insulating materials, among which:

1. Inorganic:

• Mineral wool- a general name for a number of insulation materials: stone, basalt, slag and glass wool. Thanks to many advantages, one of which is absolute non-flammability, it holds the lead among the most popular heat insulators.
• Warm plaster combined the traditional method of decorative finishing with the use of cement mortar filler with heat-insulating properties, which are usually used vermiculite and perlite or modern foamed polymers.
• Foam glass, produced by sintering molten and foamed glass recyclables, has unique characteristics: complete waterproofness, biochemical resistance, absolute non-flammability, environmental friendliness.

Organic:

• Arbolite, fibrolite and other types concrete blocks and slabs with fillers of plant origin, which can be used as both structural building materials and insulation.
• Tow, jute and some other types plant fiber materials are usually used for caulking and inter-crown insulation of wooden buildings.
• Foamed polymers, among which the most famous are polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, which today are the best thermal insulators of artificial origin. These also include penoizol, penofol and many others.
• Cellulose insulation, which is essentially cotton wool processed from recycled paper and cardboard, has very good heat-shielding properties.

The variety of materials presented, taking into account all their varieties and modifications, causes confusion at first, but upon careful examination it turns out that there are only three main technologies for performing external thermal insulation buildings:

1. "Well" insulation used for inter-wall thermal insulation of brick and frame-panel buildings. This includes, for example, well insulation brickwork or the now popular method of construction from thermal blocks - special “sandwiches” consisting of two load-bearing surfaces fastened by jumpers with a thermal insulator gasket between them, as well as pouring penoizol and filling expanded clay or cellulose wool into the space between the walls or into the gap between the wall and the sheathing.
2. "Wet" facade is a method of thermal protection that uses sheets of heat-insulating material glued or attached to the surface of the walls, which, after being covered with reinforcing mesh, are plastered or covered with facing facade materials. This method is used mainly for walls made of mineral materials: concrete, brick, various blocks, but is also quite often used for wooden walls.
3. Called "Ventilated" facade the insulation method is one of the most popular. Suffice it to say that traditional wall paneling is one of his examples. It has recently been joined by block house cladding, decorative facade panels, and various types of siding.

For external insulation of a bath Any of these methods are suitable. The differences will be determined only by the original wall material, on which the method used will depend. If we consider only those methods and materials that can be performed with minimal costs with your own hands, then the circle narrows even more.

For example, work on insulation with sprayed insulation: cellulose or polyurethane foam requires special expensive equipment and skills to operate it, and is therefore not suitable for self-execution. Some materials, such as foam glass or cork insulation, are quite expensive, especially for auxiliary buildings.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a bathhouse with polystyrene foam

How to insulate a bathhouse from the outside? The wet and ventilated façade technologies at the initial stage of work are very similar to each other, differing only in the technology used finishing coat. Let's consider step by step how you can insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the outside with your own hands:

1. Despite the coating with an external heat insulator, the roof gaps in the walls must be well caulked. If this has not been done, the time to do it is now.
2. It is advisable to treat the walls with antipyrine and antiseptic.
3. To reduce vapor formation between the walls and the insulation layer, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. For this purpose, a vertical sheathing of 30~50 mm thick bars is placed on the walls.
4. Sheets of insulation are mounted horizontally on it using special “umbrella” dowels with the vertical seams of each row arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
5. For ideal thermal protection, the first layer of insulation should be covered with a second layer, installing the foam sheets vertically. They can be attached using special adhesive for polystyrene foam.
6. Such a facade can then be covered with plastic reinforcing mesh and plastered. If you use “warm” plaster, this will further enhance the thermal insulation.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to perform very effective thermal insulation of a bathhouse with your own hands. This method can also be used for other buildings on the site: a garage, a pen for pets, a greenhouse or conservatory, and other auxiliary buildings, both wooden and stone. It is also suitable for insulating a residential building, at least its foundation.