Each person is individual and body measurements do not always correspond to beauty standards. A woman always wants to look beautiful and stylish, regardless of age and with any figure. For a person who creates clothes, it is important to have an indoor mannequin, since this is one of essential tools at work.

Clothing that fits perfectly decorates a person, emphasizes the dignity of the figure and gives confidence. But numerous fittings are tiring and therefore it is convenient to have your own individual layout. There is no need to constantly distract a person to try on and adjust clothes. This is what our master class will be about: how to make a mannequin with your own hands at home. Some nuances should be taken into account: - work on the project begins in the morning.

Important. A child mannequin is made in the same way as an adult mannequin. Only as a model - a child.

The first method is using tape

To create the desired silhouette you will need:

• assistant;
• cling film (knitted dress or T-shirt);
• Scotch tape, any adhesive tape;
• 2–3 cylinders construction foam;
• rubber gloves;
• newspaper.

• water in large quantities, preferably with a straw (tube, for ease of consumption).

Work progress:

First stage

First, you should wrap the person whose parameters you need well with cling film (wear a tight-fitting T-shirt). We begin winding it from the bottom up. It should be taken into account that you need to make several layers, given that the fit should not be strong. The film has a shrinking function.

Cling film can reduce your proportions enough that you simply won’t fit into your sewn clothes. The edges of the film can be secured with tape.

Second phase

Then they are covered with tape. The strips of tape should be small, about 10-15 cm, long pieces are difficult to glue, they cling and stick out. Start from the chest around the circumference, the tape is glued from bottom to top with overlaps. This will provide breasts correct form. The adhesive tape is applied in 2-3 layers in different directions. It is important not to forget to mark the waist and hem line.

• the layer of tape should lie freely, from the waist first down, then up;
• the chest area is affected in last resort to avoid prolonged difficulty breathing;
• It is imperative to collect the hair so that it does not touch the cocoon.

When the body is pasted to the required length, proceed to the next steps.

Third stage

After completely gluing with tape, you should align the bottom line, measuring from the floor. Next, mark the middle of the back, with marked transverse segments. According to these marks, the cocoon is cut and the bottom is trimmed.

The model needs to be released from this spacesuit, carefully cut along the back with scissors. Afterwards, glue the cut with tape.

Fourth stage

For the arms and neck, circles are cut out of thick cardboard (reels of tape). Place the cardboard and wrap it with tape.

Fifth stage

For convenience, so that you can hang the mannequin, a hanger is inserted into the neck, and cardboard is placed on top.

Sixth stage

The required mannequin is almost ready, all that remains is to fill it out inner space. You can use padding polyester, but this will make the mannequin short-lived, as it will bend under the weight of the heavy fabric. Therefore, in order for the figure to last for a long time, we fill it with building materials: alabaster or foam. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

But before you fill the inside, you need to prepare the bottom to cover the bottom of the mannequin. To do this, place the mannequin on a newspaper and cut it out the required form. Using this pattern, the bottom is cut out on cardboard.

Fill 1/5th or 1/6th of the mannequin with foam, then fill it with newspaper, let the foam harden, then foam and newspaper again. Do this until the space is filled. Foam is not cheap construction material, so they add newspaper.

Seventh stage

The final stage for an aesthetic appearance would be better to sew a cover from stretch knitwear, but first use thin synthetic padding so that it is easy to stick needles and pins into it.

Here we have it ready-made option individual mannequin. The manufacturing method is quite simple and can be done by every craftswoman.

The disadvantage of this method is the cost of construction foam and the smell that is released during work. Therefore, it is better to use foam on outdoors, well ventilated area.

Tips for beginners on making mannequins from tape

Before wrapping, you should put on the underwear in which the clothes sewn on the mannequin will be worn. Cannot be a size smaller than the model.

To create a mannequin, you need to understand what indicators need to be taken into account, that is, what we will wrap with film. This is waist size, shoulder width, back width, arm circumference, chest size, hip size. Measure these indicators so that you can compare them with the resulting dummy.

It will be more convenient to work with a mannequin if you make a soft base of batting under the fabric. It is made similarly to outer clothing. Seam allowances and darts are cut off.

The tape should not be pulled too tight. During the wrapping process, a person must periodically bend slightly and raise his arms. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the model to breathe and the production of the mannequin shell from adhesive tape may not survive until the end.

Ideally, the height of the mannequin should correspond to the height of the person for whom it is made. In this case, the height of the heels must also be taken into account.

For greater durability upper layer made from reinforced construction tape. It will ensure rigidity of the form.

And finally, take measuring tape and take your measurements. If they match those that were made initially, then congratulations, you did everything perfectly.

The second way is using plaster

Enough good option is made from gypsum. The method is more labor-intensive and time-consuming, but correct execution the result will please you. There are, of course, a number of features that need to be taken into account:

• It takes a relatively long time for the gypsum to fully set. Therefore, the model will have to stand absolutely still for about an hour. Since any movement can lead to deformation of the shape;
• the product itself is quite fragile, so it must be treated with the utmost care;
• and it is also necessary to take into account the fragility factor during transportation;
• the manufacturing procedure is carried out on a naked body, so it must be lubricated with cream or Vaseline to avoid skin irritation;
• It should be noted that if a mannequin is made for personal use, i.e., according to your body parameters, then it is impossible to cope with this task yourself. In this case, you will again need an assistant. Applying plaster material to the body requires care; it is very important that it is a person you will not be embarrassed about, since during the manufacturing process you will have to be naked.

What you need for making:

• assistant;
• comfortable underwear (a bra that will be worn under tailored clothes);
• Scotch tape, any adhesive tape;
• a roll of padding polyester (old blanket, unnecessary things);
• 2 kg of alabaster (3–4 cylinders of construction foam, plaster casts);
• rubber gloves;
• 5 rolls of medical bandage;
• Container in which bandages will be moistened;
• Directly plaster bandage;
• Matter or oilcloth that will be laid under your feet;
• Scissors or a knife to cut the plaster after hardening;
• Surface for drying the product.

• several pairs of scissors (some may stick due to permanent job with tape);
• rags (for wiping scissors);
• medium-long stick (for possible scratching);
• a stool (you can kneel when your legs are tired, but you must be very careful not to damage the base);
• water in large quantities (you will constantly want to drink), preferably with a straw (tube, for ease of consumption);
• Validol (possible loss of consciousness) Validol helps significantly.

Manufacturing process:

1. First of all, it is necessary to provide a minimum set of clothing, this could be panties and a T-shirt, or a bra instead of a T-shirt in the case of making a female mannequin. In some cases it is possible to wrap the body plastic film, but it should be noted that such a decision will slightly affect your figure, i.e. the form will not fully reflect it in the future.
2. Next, strips of plaster bandage are cut to a length of 5–10 centimeters, soaked and applied to the body. It is advisable to start with the chest and shoulders. Next, move smoothly down. It is necessary to carefully monitor the formation of the armhole and ensure that there are no air bubbles in it. The entire process should be carried out as quickly as possible, since the dressings will begin to dry immediately after contact with the skin. Apply 3-4 layers in this way. Remember, the entire coating must be perfectly smooth, so until it hardens, you must refrain from the temptation to turn, bend over, or even move in any way. If you still want to look at something, you can ask your assistant to bring a mirror. Special attention should be given to the bottom of the mannequin. Here already on initial stage you should clearly decide: the form is performed with legs, or only the contour of the hips is needed.
3. After completely covering the body with plaster, you must stand still for at least 30–40 minutes from the moment the last strip is applied.
4. After the plaster has dried, the mold is carefully cut along the shoulders and armhole lines. It is necessary to work as carefully and concentratedly as possible so as not to injure the model. The wrapping process is carried out from top to bottom, there must be spacers inside the cocoon so that the cocoon does not lose its shape. The figure takes about two days to dry under normal room conditions. You should first leave room for a stand, for example, fix a stick in the figure so that there is a hole left for installing the model.
5. The next step is to sew the two resulting parts together using threads, or you can also use plaster bandages, but reinforced tape is easier to work with. There must be spacers inside the cocoon so that the cocoon does not lose its shape.
6. When the form is completely dry, take a control measurement to ensure it matches the contours of the model’s body.
7. To give stability and rigidity, it is necessary to fill the mold. This can be done with any available material (foam rubber, pieces of fabric, paper, polyurethane foam).

The mannequin is almost ready

Important. When performing the work for the first time, the model may turn out to be slightly smaller than its size, then you can correct this error using papier-mâché. It should be noted that the drying time for a thin layer of paper is two days, and about four days for a thicker one.

The manufacture of the mannequin is completed by installing cardboard and a rod with a stand. The cardboard is placed perpendicular to the axis - the line of the spine. The edges are secured with tape. A pipe or stand is inserted through the prepared hole; the main thing is that it is on wheels and can be rolled along the floor.

The mannequin is covered with non-slip fabric. It could be:

• velvet;
• cashmere;
• thin drape;
• old wool blanket.

Everything is pre-cut according to the usual template. the right size, with allowances. It looks more beautiful if you make longitudinal darts from the armhole. Armholes are not cut out. The neck is made high and covered with a piece of fabric. Then the sour cream cover is put on the mannequin with the seams facing out and adjustments are made. Now you can sew the seams and dress up your mannequin.

The pin cushion looks good on the neck and is comfortable to work with. The waist is indicated by a ribbon.

In addition to the fact that the mannequin serves ready-made sample for sewing clothes, it can also be used as an interior decor item. And also to iron things with steam when it is not possible to do it on an ironing board.

You can make a mannequin at home, you just need to spend your time and a little Money. A mannequin made with your own hands will please the eye and serve for a long time.

Important. Such a mannequin is suitable as a tailor's mannequin for sewing clothes and as an individual mannequin based on its figure.

It's up to you to decide which method suits you best, the faster one made from adhesive tape or a plaster dummy mummy. We hope you enjoyed the master class and it helped solve the most important problem for craftswomen. New victories and achievements!

But you will also find this video useful:

Everything, as always, started out wrong. There was no idea to make a mannequin, but there was a need to reupholster a time-worn extendable tailoring mannequin. Underneath the upholstery was a thin plastic mold. And then I remembered, twenty years ago, an unrealized desire to make Venetian mask. Everyone didn’t get around to using a mask, but the idea was to try washable sleeves as papier-mâché from toilet paper Came about three years ago, and since then these bushings have been accumulating. And then there’s the search for new opportunities for photographing your work, and uninteresting store-bought mannequins, and the cost of interesting ones... So, let’s go. Let me make a reservation right away: I have never worked with papier-mâché or wire, so, most likely, I violated a bunch of rules for handling these materials. Therefore, I will write about the mistakes that I myself noticed - and you will not repeat them when making your own mannequin.

I greased the plastic forms of the front of the tailoring mannequin with hand cream and placed a layer of pieces of A4 paper on the water.

I made the second layer of bushings like this: I separated the bushings along the “seam”, we got diamond-shaped sheets of cardboard, which we then tore into pieces (at that moment I still didn’t take my idea seriously, I was curious to know if the bushings were suitable for the role of mass for papier -mache, so she didn’t bother with small pieces and glued them in large strips. Later, my daughter repeated the experiment, making a mask, and it turned out that it was easy to glue with small pieces and it was very simple to immediately work out the details).

Prepared glue: for a glass warm water- 1 tsp. glue for vinyl wallpaper(stirred until dissolved) and 4-5 tbsp. PVA glue.

These roll sleeves are very tricky and tend to dissolve right in your hands, so I tried them on to the selected place on the form, applied them and immediately smeared them with a brush with glue. The paper pulp at this time is very flexible and easy to smooth out. I glued it in one layer with an overlap. Last layer- A4 paper.

I repeated the process on the plastic back mold.

My mistakes: I should have first secured the front halves with paper tape (as I did later with the back halves), then it would have been easier to connect the ready-made papier-mâché forms. But the mannequin became much slimmer at the waist, I tightened it when assembling it :)

And the second mistake: the rolls are quite thick, so it makes sense to glue two layers, but without overlaps - it will be easier later when leveling with putty.

My model dried in about a day and was not deformed at all. It came off the mold very easily. It turned out thin and very durable. The fact that it is crooked is the result of my careless work; I tested the capabilities of the material and did not particularly care about accuracy.

But since everything worked out, I decided to continue making the mannequin in vintage style. I imagined what he might look like if I met him living at some flea market.

Now it's time for the connection. The question of decorating the neck, or rather cutting it off, immediately arose. Some kind of knob was needed... and then I was lucky, my eyes caught on glass jar with Chinese tea. The shape and size were perfect! All that remains is to place the lid of the jar on liquid nails (Moment of installation).

And I simply fastened the parts of the mannequin with thin wire, fortunately my papier-mâché was pierced with a thin awl. Here's what I got. As I already wrote above, I tightened the waist, fastening the parts with an overlap.

Primed in two layers acrylic paint for walls (universal, washable from Leroy Merlin), with a layer of universal construction acrylic primer (also from Leroy).

As far as I know, it was necessary to treat it with papier-mâché gesso, but I didn’t have it, and there were some leftover materials after the repair. Just in case, I applied a layer of PVA, I was afraid that the wet putty would make my mannequin wet. Dried well.

Next, I leveled the entire structure with regular construction acrylic putty. I leveled it without fanaticism, because my mannequin is planned to be vintage and a certain amount of unevenness should not spoil it (I will say right away that in some places it turned out even too evenly, more roughness should have been left).

Depressions on the chest (places for attachment plastic molds) covered it with a layer of one and a half to two centimeters - and nothing, the papier-mâché did not get wet. I dried it for a day, sanded it a little with coarse sandpaper, and primed it with construction acrylic primer.

The result is a stump like this. He looked pathetic and was clearly asking for something below the waist.

But I wasn’t going to retighten the bottom of the tailor’s dummy, and it was no longer interesting to repeat the whole epic with papier-mâché covering the bottom, so I decided to make a “skirt” out of something.

At first the idea of ​​a wire basket came to mind, but I didn’t have anything suitable. So I had to make this basket.

You needed: two coils of wire (one hard - 2 mm, the second soft - 1 mm) from Leroy Merlin, wire cutters, round-nose pliers, pliers and a lampshade for a floor lamp (also from Leroy, there are quite a few big choice lampshades for 120-130 rubles).

I peeled off the lampshade and got two wire rings (one with a mount for the lampshade).

I think that I could do without a lampshade at all and make these rings myself, but, firstly, I did not have wire, the strength of which I would be sure of, and secondly, the mount for the lampshade, resting on the table, recorded for me the desired height“skirts”, which simplified further assembly.

I drew the desired shape on a piece of paper, leaving more space for the butt area. I bent the rings a little. I fixed the shape with three stretchers from the bottom and began to assemble my basket.

First, I connected the rings with vertical stripes (I tried them on, marked the chosen attachment point with a marker, bit off a piece of wire slightly longer than needed with wire cutters, curved it, keeping the shape of the skirt in mind, bent the ends with pliers and fixed the attachment location with thin wire). I got a frame with 14 vertical wires.

I used pliers to randomly twist the decor - I bent the wire into a spiral randomly and sometimes connected 2-3 elements soft wire

Then, in artistic chaos, I collected all the elements, attaching them to the frame and, sometimes, connecting them together with soft wire. The result is a lampshade basket like this.

My mistake: I should have used a softer copper wire or used brute male strength, because my hands did not like this stage of work at all. True, I tried to attract male power; She bent well, but, alas, did not catch the direction of the bends.

The shape suited me quite well, but the vintage look turned out a little bad. So I brushed the entire structure with texture paste. It dried overnight and gave my basket a rather pitiful look, but it additionally secured the components.

Removing paste burrs with sandpaper turned out to be very inconvenient, and the drill attachment instantly peeled off the paste completely. I was just about to get sad, but just in time I remembered the brush. And she didn’t disappoint! The paste was polished in literally minutes. The sharp ends of the wire were smoothed out and the whole structure turned out to be very smooth and pleasant to the touch. The brass bristles also colored the paste, giving the wire the desired vintage flair.

Next I connected the torso to the basket. I drilled several paired holes around the waist and tied them with thin wire. The structure turned out to be stable, but just in case I walked around liquid nails By inner contour connections.

Decoupage skills would come in handy here, but, alas, this is not my thing. I painted the mannequin with two-part Antique Silver paint (American Accents) and it began to evoke thoughts of jousting tournaments and Joan of Arc.

That is, the mannequin was already quite associated with the flea market, but not at all with my knitted scarves, which I was going to photograph on it.

I decided to add curls to the decor. I drew the outlines of monograms on sheets of paper, put the sheets in files, and smeared the files with hand cream (just in case, so that less sticking would occur). I prepared a mixture for painting: 1 x 1 texture paste and wood putty (I have elastic FOR WOOD). I added water to the consistency of very thick sour cream and, using a pastry bag, squeezed the paste onto the file.

They dried overnight and separated from the file very easily. The result was something between rubber and plastic (if I ever get around to making a mask, it will be simply an indispensable material for decoration). I glued the monograms onto PVA and made a smooth transition to the wire at the junction of the torso and the basket. My Joan of Arc began to resemble a strange cream cake :)

In some places the monograms were scratched, scuffed and chipped (nail, emery, knife). I painted my stucco.

My mistake: I should have glued the monograms before general painting, then I wouldn’t have had to bother with a thin brush later. The belligerence in my mannequin had diminished, but the knitted scarf was still not associated with his neck.

I didn’t have time to get upset - my daughter came and took charge of the process. She collected almost all the paints that were found in the house (including construction, decorative, fabric and glass paints/contours), and with four hands we spent an hour randomly smearing and smacking with semi-dry brushes and sponges. And this is what happened in the end.

If I were a decoupage artist, I would make the effect old paper If I knew how to weave with wire, I would make an openwork weave, but, in general, I liked the result. And most importantly - it was very interesting!

I quickly wove another small mannequin in the Provence style.

The question that everyone who sews clothes for themselves asks: how to make a mannequin with your own hands? It is needed during fitting. After all, it is impossible to make corrections yourself, for example, from the back. Therefore, a tailor's mannequin is not a whim, but a necessity.

The sewing mannequin can be soft or hard (this allows you to use pins when trying on).

The support for the structure can be made of wood or metal (based on your own capabilities).

A mannequin made by yourself follows all the features of the body and is indispensable for sewing at home.

First you need to prepare necessary materials, such as:

• cling film or several large plastic bags;
• scissors;
• plaster bandages (can be bought at a pharmacy, if unavailable, replace with regular bandages and dry plaster);
• wire;
• construction and reinforced tape;
• padding polyester, foam rubber, batting;
• tape measure;
• plumb line;
• coat hanger;
• mannequin base;
• polyurethane foam;
• wooden handle for a shovel;
• unnecessary T-shirt;
• PVA glue;
• paper;
• felt-tip pen.

You definitely need an assistant, you can’t do without him. Wear your usual underwear, it is better to tuck your hair under a cap. Start working in the first half of the day (the process may take a long time) in a well-ventilated area (air access to the body will be limited).

Step-by-step instruction

A simple option involves using an unnecessary T-shirt.

1. Put a T-shirt on the model and place a layer of cling film around the neck.
2. The tape is cut into 30-50 cm pieces for greater convenience and a frame is made with it: a layer above the chest, along the protruding points of the chest, under the chest, at the waist and hips. Some vertical stripes they are fixed.
3. Next, tape the T-shirt completely in a circular motion (without pulling, so as not to disturb the dimensions).
4. After the shell is formed, mark the main lines with a felt-tip pen: chest, waist, hips. Vertical lines are drawn using a plumb line. Also mark control points for connecting the parts after cutting.
5. The resulting frame is cut along the midline of the back and the model is released.
6. The workpiece is connected (focusing on the marking lines) with tape. Seal the holes in the neck area (after placing a hanger there) and arms.
7. Place the frame on the shovel handle, its inside can be filled polyurethane foam or filler (holofiber). When using polyurethane foam, filling should be done layer by layer (after the previous layer has dried).
8. When the mannequin has taken shape, the bottom is attached to the bottom (a hole for the handle is first made in the center).
9. The dimensions of the resulting mannequin are specified and, if necessary, adjusted using batting or padding polyester. It is recommended to “put on” a thin knitted product over the frame to give a finished look.

The second method is more labor-intensive.

1. Wrap the model's torso cling film(without squeezing), then pasted over with tape (as in the first case). It is important not to pull down the protruding parts (it is recommended to use short pieces of tape in these areas)
2. Plaster bandages pre-moistened with water are applied in the direction from the back under the chest and then on the back crosswise (so as not to slide along the smooth tape). After laying 3 layers, let them dry. When applying more layers, the frame becomes heavy, this must be taken into account.
3. Make markings on the frame (chest lines, waist, hips, control points) and cut the resulting frame along the side and shoulder lines. The resulting halves are freed from the tape.
4. The inside is treated with paraffin (pre-melted).
5. Fill each half of the frame with polyurethane foam layer by layer, after filling, connect the parts of the mannequin (at the control points) with tape, having previously inserted a hanger, and leave until completely dry.
6. The bottom of the frame is leveled using a regular hacksaw (the excess is sawed off). Irregularities on the frame can be smoothed out by sanding with sandpaper. A layer of putty will help remove them. After it has dried, it is recommended to repeat sanding.
7. Cover the mannequin with paper in several layers and compare the resulting dimensions with the model. Eliminate the difference by applying a layer of batting or padding polyester (gluing them to PVA).
8. Can be pasted on the whole mannequin thin layer batting (for ease of use of pins when trying on) and place it on the stand. You can use a handle for a shovel and a cross from a Christmas tree (to make the dummy stable). The frame is covered with thin knitwear on top to give a more aesthetic appearance.

The finished mannequin can be used for sewing blouses, dresses, jackets, and coats. If it happens that the proportions of the figure change, with the help of batting you can easily adjust and continue to use the mannequin.

My daughter is now studying at the academy to become a technologist. clothing production and they were given a task - to create a mini-collection (each student has their own theme) of three things and demonstrate it on large-scale mannequins (scale 1: 2.5). But.... the mannequins were not given out. Well, they don’t have that many mannequins in their household. There is one plasticine mold from which it was necessary to remove a double from papier-mâché. But... there is only one for everyone, papier-mâché in the amount of 3 pieces for each face takes a long time.... in general... time was already running out, but my daughter and I were not able to grab the plasticine woman. She still walks around from hand to hand. And then I have a long-standing fixed idea - to get a large-scale mannequin! I matured for a long time, I kept going over the topics of our craftswomen and collecting experience in creating mannequins. And then the stars aligned and there was nowhere else to retreat. Mom scratched the back of her head and got down to business. It turned out that creating mini-mannequins is such a fun activity! First I'll show you what happened, and then I'll post it detailed process creations in pictures. For those who want to repeat “Gastello’s feat” I will post “patterns” of mini-mannequins in two scales (1:2 and 1:2.5).
So, meet the “striped swimsuit group”!

The very first question (and I was simply stupefied at this point :-))) - where to get patterns on which to then cut the isolon? Once I tried to build them simply by taking a table standard sizes, but... it didn’t look at all like the “figure” of a mannequin :-(. And here is a brilliant idea from Lybcha-1965! We need to remove the skin from the mannequin! I have a standard mannequin of size 46 (Russian) on my farm. My daughter and I just needed a size 46 in scale! Can you imagine what a coincidence!?
The sheet was quickly cut and the skin was removed from the large mannequin using the pinning method :-). I removed the tape only from half of the mannequin, because... I have it with different shoulders (apparently it was modeled from a living person :-))), and then I simply mirrored it so that the mannequins turned out symmetrical. She took the tracing paper off the sheet. That is, I transferred the contours of the “pattern” drawn in pencil on the sheet onto tracing paper. For what? I just thought that when I start cutting the sheet into A4 pieces, the fabric might just move, but tracing paper is paper, it won’t move and there will be practically no distortion. Now we need to somehow scan all this stuff ;-). I had no desire to draw A4 size “squares” on tracing paper, because... You can miss the size and again this threatens to distort the patterns in the end. Then I took sheets of printer paper and glued them together with paper tape, joint to joint, into a strip of 4 sheets (for me, half the front and half the back each fit on 4 A4 sheets!). I carefully traced the contours of the patterns on the tracing paper with a soft pencil, turned the tracing paper “face down” onto a strip of glued sheets and traced the contours of the patterns again from the “wrong side” of the tracing paper. The drawing was imprinted on the sheets as if from a carbon copy. I drew it again more boldly, now on paper, put all the alignment marks and cut the tape. That's it, now you can scan without problems :-). I scanned it and reduced it to the required scale in FS. Then I printed it out and connected it according to the marks. The result was a set of mannequin patterns on a scale of 1:2.5.

Patterns on a scale of 1:2.5

Before

Back

Rack

patterns in scale 1:2

Bottom

Before 1

Before 2

Silhouette 1 left

Silhouette 1 right

Silhouette 2 left

Silhouette 2 right

Backrest 1

Back 2

Rack

To print the pattern in original size In the printer settings, when printing, you need to check the “Page Fill” box and print without borders.

I started having problems with isolon from the very beginning, that is, at the stage of gluing the interlining. Well, it didn’t want to stick. Then, after joining the seams, the chest somehow pressed inward and... well, it’s not really a coat at all. I was saddened and sat down to think about how to enlarge my breasts. Thoughts flowed in the direction of pressed synthetic padding (as I do on quilted cups) and then... urrrrrrr... the thought came: “Why not make the whole mannequin according to the principle of quilted cups?!” After all, iron-pressed and quilted stytepon is a very shape-resistant and at the same time plastic material! No sooner said than done! And the work began to boil. Each mannequin used 1.5 m of padding polyester 1.5 m wide. I pressed it into 6 layers using a wet iron. The result was a sheet 0.5m x 0.75m. From it I cut out pattern parts without allowances. You need to trace the patterns very accurately!

Then we take a piece of calico or chintz and glue it with knitted sheepskin. Like this

We cut out pattern parts from calico with allowances around the perimeter of 1 cm

We put padding polyester parts on them, stitch them around the perimeter at a distance of 1mm from the edge (of padding polyester) and machine stitch the entire part. The distance between stitching lines should not exceed 3mm!

All the details were quilted. Then we cut off all the allowances flush with the contours of the padding polyester. We also cut out the dart solution. We put marks for connecting the parts (they are on the patterns) and hand-sew all the parts end to end. First darts, and then “relief” seams. We iron them a little, using an iron to form the smooth lines of the future mannequin (especially the chest). I ironed the chest on a small foam ball ;-). And we cover the seams with strips of adhesive interlining. I did this not to hide the threads of the seams, but so that when the mannequin is arched around the circumference of the hips and waist, the seams do not become an angle, but lie in a smooth arc.

So I assemble the back separately and the front separately. And I also sew it seam to seam with handles to the “tie” - the silhouette. This is what happens.

Then, again, I manually connect the front and back along the sides and shoulders. For convenience, I first connected the halves of the mannequin with an elastic band along the waist line. Then, after connecting, I removed the elastic band.

In the photo you can see that I made one mannequin with pieces of handles (like on my big mannequin), and the other two without handles at all. The patterns in the links are given with handles, but if someone wants to make them without them, they can simply be cut off along the armhole lines that are on the patterns. The silhouette pattern will also need to be slightly corrected, removing the bulges of the arms.
After connecting the halves of the mannequin, we insert a wooden stick - the future stand - between the central parts of the screed. My sticks have a diameter of 1.2 mm. I bought it at a construction supermarket (across the road from the house ;-)). Stand height for scale 1:2.5 is 64cm. For scale 1:2 - 80cm.
The stick was inserted, placed at the bottom of the mannequin in the middle and secured with several stitches on both sides.

You don’t have to fix the stick in the neck area, because there is a very small distance and it is clamped quite tightly between the ties.
Now we fill our mannequins with ordinary medical cotton wool. You can use small scraps of fabric or padding polyester. But cotton wool turned out to be the most convenient for me. Each mannequin took 300g of cotton wool (3 packs of 100g each).

At first I thought not to stuff the mannequin, but then I tried it and it turned out that this way it holds its shape better and doesn’t sink." rib cage"and the shoulders on the back become round and beautiful :-). Here is a photo to compare a stuffed mannequin and an unstuffed one. Ah! The not yet stuffed mannequin strives to take the shape of a circle from below. But our body is not round, but oval in cross section!: -)) In general, when the mannequin was stuffed with cotton wool, it became very similar to a big real mannequin

After stuffing, we close the mannequin with the bottom, which is also made of compressed and quilted padding polyester. Attention! At the same time, DO NOT remove the wand from the mannequin, because then it will no longer be possible to push it from below the mannequin due to the very small hole in the bottom (we simply cannot move the ties apart in such a small hole)! And we can only put a mannequin on a stand with a stand already attached from below.

Now you need to cover the mannequins with supplex (bi-elastic material from which swimsuits are usually made). We cut it out in 2 layers according to the silhouette screed pattern with an allowance of 1 cm around the perimeter and 3 cm at the bottom.

We sew along the sides and shoulders along the markings with an elastic stitch (I use a back-and-forth stitch, but you can also stitch it with a narrow zig zag), leaving an unsewn hole in the neck for the stand. We cut the allowances to a width of 2.5-3mm (no need to make any gaps), turn them inside out, stretch them onto the mannequin and... we understand that adjustments are needed. We remove and make changes. It turns out that for a good fit you need to round off all the sharp corners in the area of ​​the shoulders and arms. And on a mannequin with handles, also reduce these same handles by 1 cm on each side. (bottom photo on the right)

We sew along new lines, cut off the allowances, turn them inside out and again stretch them onto the mannequin. Hooray! Everything worked out!

Now you need to pull the supplex onto a thread from the bottom of the mannequin.

And this is what happened:

The mannequins are currently put on auxiliary sticks.
Now let's move on to the stands and stands.
The stand was made from planks purchased at the same construction supermarket. We bought 2 planks measuring 50 x 20 cm and my husband sawed them for me into 4 pieces 20 x 20 cm with a thickness of 1.8 cm. I used a drill to make a hole in the middle with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the sticks. I sharpened the sticks on one side with a knife like a pencil. I coated them with Moment-gel glue and coated the holes inside with this glue as well. And she hammered the sticks into the holes. It turned out very strong and reliable. On the bottom, on the base of the stands, I glued 4 squares of leather in the corners so that the stands would not slide on the table.

When the glue on the stands had dried, I smeared the pieces of sticks on the sides with it, put the mannequins on the stands, pushing the auxiliary sticks up (thus taking them out of the mannequins) and turned the mannequins 90 degrees around their axis so that the glue strips came into contact with the details of the silhouette screed. That's it, the mannequins are firmly glued to the stands!

Now a little reasoning. I think such a mannequin can be made in life size, because It turns out to be quite light, but holds its shape well. Pins can easily be stuck into it and you can even iron on it.
You can use a pattern of adhesive as a template. A silhouette screed can be made using the margo_kt method, but with minor amendments.
What exactly are the amendments? When I started tracing the shadow of the mannequin, and then took a control measurement of the bottom, it turned out that the error in width was about 3.5 cm. That is, the width of the shadow turned out to be 3.5 cm larger than the real silhouette.

First, I did everything as indicated by margo_kt. But there were errors not only in the width but also in the height of the silhouette. Then I decided to outline the shadow in 3 stages. First, I placed the lamp at waist level and outlined a piece of shadow. Then she placed the lamp at chest level and again traced a piece of shadow, trying to connect the lines with those obtained at waist level. Then she again moved the lamp, only now to the level of the hips, and again outlined the shadow, connecting with the lines obtained in the waist area. The main thing is to install the lamp exactly in the middle of the mannequin each time ( vertical axis). After all these manipulations, a fairly accurate outline in height was obtained. And in terms of width, I simply removed the extra centimeters in accordance with the bottom measurement, under the ruler. That is, it was narrowed by 1.75 cm on each side.

Subbotina Natalia Nikolaevna 2703

If you prefer to sew clothes for your family with your own hands, then most likely you have already thought about purchasing a sewing mannequin. If you make things not only for yourself, but also for your daughter, son, mother, sister, buying suitable mannequins for everyone will require a large amount of money. In addition, children grow up quickly, and such a sewing dummy will have to be changed often. Try making it yourself. It is very easy, and most importantly - cheap.

What types of mannequins are there?

Depending on the type of figure, mannequins are divided into:

• Men's;
• Women's;
• Children's;
• Teenage.

Each is made taking into account the proportions of a specific group of people.

From a design point of view, a sewing mannequin can be one of the following types:

• With fixed size;
• Sliding;
• With smooth adjustment.

According to the material used in production, the classification is as follows:

• Hard;
• Soft.

A hard sewing mannequin is most often made of plastic, and a soft one is made of polyurethane foam.

When planning to buy a mannequin, choose the one that will be convenient in your case.

Prices in online stores:

sewcity.ru

RUB 12,800

Making a mannequin with your own hands

If you are sewing clothes for yourself, it is best to buy a soft mannequin. It is lightweight, durable, resistant to high temperatures and deformations. This design has a fixed size, but can be easily compressed to, for example, put on a non-stretchable item. In addition, you can steam clothes directly on the mannequin. The soft mannequin is able to absorb excess moisture and does not deteriorate from high temperatures.

It’s easy to make such a mannequin yourself. This method is cheap and does not require large quantity time. This is especially convenient if you need a sewing mannequin for children's clothing. Firstly, children do not like long fitting sessions, and working with a mannequin will be much more convenient for you. Secondly, boys and girls grow quickly and their proportions change. Making a new soft mannequin will not be difficult or expensive for you.

Materials and tools

To get started, you will need the following:

• T-shirt of the appropriate size;
• Wide opaque tape;
• Filler, for example, holofiber;
• Cardboard;
• Scissors;
• Mount for fixing the mannequin.

As you can see, nothing complicated or expensive is needed to make a soft mannequin yourself. You can take a T-shirt that you are no longer going to wear (old, with a stain). It is used as a base, namely the inner layer.

Manufacturing technology

Find a convenient time and start performing the dummy. If you do it for a child, warn him that it will take about half an hour, since everything needs to be done in one go. The sequence of work will be as follows:

1. Put the prepared T-shirt on your model. If you are making a female sewing mannequin, a bra must be worn. If the T-shirt has a large neckline, cover it with film or a bag;

2. Start modeling. Apply a strip of tape under the chest, and also in directions from the shoulders through the middle of the chest;

3. Continue gluing the strips parallel to the first ones until top part will not be completely filled;

4. Shape the shoulders and sleeves;

5. Glue stripes along the waist and hips. Also shape the surfaces completely;

6. When the entire T-shirt is pasted over, you can repeat the procedure with a second layer for strength;

7. Carefully cut the T-shirt with scissors along with the pasted layer of tape and remove the resulting product from the model. The rest is done without her participation;

8. Glue your soft mannequin along the cut with a strip of tape;

9. Seal the holes where the hands were;

10. Fill the product with holofiber or any other material;

11. Make a bottom for the structure out of cardboard and glue it to the mannequin;

12. Use the fastener to secure the structure or leave it as is.

All is ready. Now you have a sewing mannequin that exactly matches your model's figure. Use and enjoy the convenience of a simple and inexpensive thing you can do yourself in half an hour.

So, you have learned how to make a sewing mannequin with your own hands. As you can see, it’s not difficult at all, and most importantly, it’s cheap. A set of a T-shirt, tape and filler will cost you very little. But if price is not a concern for you or the process seems too complicated, then buy a ready-made, for example, soft mannequin. It is especially convenient to use it if you sew clothes for yourself. It's easy to choose a product. Order and receive even easier!

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