Whether in a private country house or in your own garage or workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary stove-stove. Today there are many on sale different models these heating devices, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material And necessary tools, stoves are often made independently.

Which model of wood stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these homemade devices can have a wide variety of appearances and can be made from both new material and improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, medium-diameter pipes, metal sheets and even rims from large automobile wheels to make potbelly stoves.

Tools for making a potbelly stove

To work with metal you will need special tools, some of them are available in almost every private home, while others will have to be purchased or rented.

• Angle grinding machine - “grinder” and consumables as cutting discs and grinding wheels.
• A welding machine with a power of 200 A, and also consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
• Metal brush.
• Slag hammer.
• Measuring tools - folding meter, long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
• Pliers, hammer, chisel.
• Drill with metal drills of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance heating device and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, the best option is one made from metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe.

Any of them will do existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring warmth into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make your choice, it is worth considering different options and becoming familiar with the process of their manufacture.

Gas cylinder stove

Installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

• Using one cylinder with a vertical or horizontal arrangement;
• Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will provide more heat, since the heating area of ​​the oven is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, it can even be installed in a residential area.

Materials for production

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of the oven will need:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - the jumper between the firebox and the ash pan will be made from it, as well as hob.
• If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a ready-made cast iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
• If appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a piece of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
• Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel angle for making a grate and legs. made of cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder in which holes are drilled can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from cylinders big size, but also from small ones - this will depend on the space allocated for the stove.

Preparing the gas cylinder

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in use. In this case, a certain concentration of gas may always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. Measures for appropriate preparation of the container cannot be neglected, since do work will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

• First of all, unscrew the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, and clear the hole in which it is installed. The container is left outside or in a utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
• After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It should be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to drain it away from your home.
• A washed cylinder can be used for work, since the last remaining gas should be removed from it along with the water.

Making a vertical stove from a cylinder

• The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - the location of the firebox and ash pan is indicated on it. For this procedure you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her a fairly rigid but elastic tape can be measured and drawn location door

• The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts using a grinder. The cut out fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox doors and ash pan

• These elements are boiled, adding sides, hinges and a handle-latch, and they make excellent doors.
• Next, the internal diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the fittings. Thus, a grate for the firebox is made.
• Then, the level of installation of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate thus becomes a separator between the ash pit chamber and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

• Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation location so that the doors close and open easily.

• On the opposite side of the hinges, a loop-hook for the bolt, open at the top, is fixed. It should keep the door securely closed while the stove is heating.
• The door on the ash pan is secured in the same way.
• It is recommended to cut off the top part of the cylinder for welding on top of the round metal panel, which will act as a hob.
• The chimney can be discharged either through the top of the cylinder or through the back or side wall of the stove. If you choose the second option, the upper hob will be much larger, since it will be freed from the chimney pipe.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take much less space than the horizontal option, but you also need to remember that any stove should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Efficient potbelly stove made from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, can heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to install a water heating tank in the vertical part of the furnace if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in pipes for supplying and extracting water.

• The first step is to prepare the cylinder, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of approximately 30 - 35 mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder is obtained.

• In the bottom part of the future firebox, holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

• A metal box is welded under this “grid” - this will ash pan. Then you need to install a tightly closing door on it to prevent coals and ash from falling out. As an air regulator it is used will not be available in this model.
• Legs made from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

• On top of the horizontally located cylinder, on the side opposite the firebox door, a round hole is cut out onto which the vertical part of the stove will be installed.

• A door is installed, which would best be made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut in the center into which a pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. It is recommended to place the door hinges on top - under the influence of its weight, the lid will reliably close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

• The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to the horizontal body.

• In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is installed in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. smoke entering this section does not immediately go down the chimney, but lingers in the chamber.

• To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. The holes should be cut close to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper should be located on the opposite side from from version on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers, located equidistant from each other.
• The vertical unit with the partitions already mounted is installed and welded on top to the horizontally mounted housing. A connection pipe is welded onto the top cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from one cylinder, and the operating technology is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering the difference between some elements.

• Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting the chimney pipe is welded into the rear upper part of the cylinder.

• A rectangular hole is cut out for the combustion door - it can be adjusted in size to the finished cast iron door. If it is purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blower holes brick kilns- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

• You can make a door and from a balloon cut out rectangular part. The size of the sides will fit well into the resulting hole, but in the middle there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be brewed cut from metal sheet patch.
• In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar, 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
• Instead of wire, you can use two steel strips, welded on both sides of the cylinder along its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a stove made from a cylinder. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used for heating not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical stove

• The barrel is measured and marked on its surface location the vent and firebox doors, as well as the location of the cut. It should extend below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
• Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is initially worked on separately.
• A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
• A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
• The chimney pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole onto the pipe, a hob is threaded and laid, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the side, will help to more long term keep the hob hot.
• Next, a round one is also welded to the lower side of the upper part. metal part with holes cut in it - a grate. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
• When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can use the previously made markings to cut a hole for the firebox door.
• The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are attached to the door.
• Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the latch are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the latch should fit freely into the holder arranged with a hook.
• An opening is cut in the lower part of the barrel for the ash pit. The door is prepared and hung - the same as in the case of the combustion chamber.
• After this, both parts are connected into a single structure by a weld.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

• In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections between the door and the hinges and the hinges and the body are made using rivets.

• The standard pressure release hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan is provided.
• It is recommended to immediately make a stand to place the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or corners, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without play.

• The next stage is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, based on the data obtained, it is cut out. the right size panel in which holes are drilled for air supply. The finished grate is placed on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

• For the chimney pipe, a special connecting unit is made in the rear upper part. After marking under required diameter Using a grinder, diametrical slits are cut at an angle of 15º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting “teeth” are bent upward - the chimney pipe, which is then inserted, will be attached to them using rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

Potbelly stove made from wheel rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected to match the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the cut may vary depending on the preference of the master and the stability of the structure, but is usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the design and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

• The individual elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a piece of pipe, a metal sheet and a pipe for the chimney.
• All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To make it easier to adjust the diameter of the pipe to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outermost rib from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

• Next, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
• The cut out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
• Then, you need to make a hole for the ash pan, otherwise the fire in the stove simply won’t burn. To do this, a window measuring 100-120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

• A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded there.
• It is recommended to make a hob for the upper disk from a steel sheet 4 mm thick — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
• The same is done with the bottom of the stove in order to create a full-fledged ash pit and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is more like a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free starting materials- this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made from wheel rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade potbelly stoves is the compact one. It looks neat and can be installed in any room. This potbelly stove is a good size for small country houses, since it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the “Gnome” potbelly stove.

A similar model of potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most ordinary body with a division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will retain heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city with early spring until late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, chimney pipe, corner 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. You can make a lid for the burner yourself or buy it ready-made.

• Relying on drawing, on metal details are drawn on sheets potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for securing them inside the structure.
• Rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out in the front panel. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and the latches and hinges are immediately attached to them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
• On the same panel, only on its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
• After this, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. Together, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for the smoke when the stove burns. Thanks to this, each corner of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
• IN hob two holes are cut out - for the burner and for the chimney.
• Legs made of thick reinforcement or angle are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose the option of a frame from a corner, which includes legs and a base for attaching the bottom and lower ribs of the side panels to it.
• Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld corners on them along the entire length of the panel; they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
• In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a ready-made cast iron grate should not be discounted.
• Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will make it a little heavier. general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
• The top cover with the chimney pipe and the hob is welded.
• To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all welding seams and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and rear surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, significantly accelerating the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks so that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: master class on making a potbelly stove from steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A one made independently will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety rules are followed during its installation.

• The surface on which the stove is installed must be hard and fire-resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. Can also be used asbestos sheet, which The top is covered with a metal sheet.
• Heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls around the stove. Wall cladding is also suitable ceramic tiles or brick.
• It is prohibited to place flammable materials and compounds near the stove or near the firebox.
• The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic.
• It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
• In order for the stove to work for a long time and efficiently, you need to choose only high-quality material for its manufacture.
• Before installing the stove on its permanent place Be sure to carry out street tests, paying special attention to the quality of welds and the accuracy of fit of all parts.

Sometimes situations arise when it is necessary to heat as efficiently and quickly as possible without significant material costs. small room(garage, workshop or warehouse). Great solution The problem will be a compact potbelly stove made by yourself, the creation of which requires ingenuity, desire, tools and metal.

A simple potbelly stove can be built from materials that are at hand. You can use a regular can or a thick-walled barrel. Many years of practice have shown that very thick metal (over 8 mm) is too difficult to heat. Thus, the efficiency decreases and most of the heat is not used for heating.

If the metal is too thin, under the influence of high temperatures it will begin to deform and quickly lose its original shape. The best option is walls of about 3-4 mm.

Introductory video on the operation of the furnace

Rectangular stove with reflector

When deciding what shape and size a finished potbelly stove should take, everyone must do it on their own. A person with an engineering education and skills can take any, even the simplest design, and make the desired changes to it to improve it.

Drawing of a rectangular potbelly stove:

A simple and multifunctional do-it-yourself potbelly stove is made from the following materials:

• Sketches and simple drawing of the structure indicating all the main dimensions
• Sheet metal (its quantity depends on the desired dimensions of the furnace)
• Steel corners (thickness 4-5 mm)
• Metal tube 25-30 mm
• Pipe 180 mm
• Welding machine
• Working hand and electric tools

The furnace body will be made in the form of a rectangle steel sheets, which are butt welded together. It is necessary to cut the workpieces into five main planes (bottom, top, side and back walls). On the front panel there will be a blower and a door for the furnace, so the issue can be resolved with it later.

First they are welded side surfaces to the bottom. It is necessary to ensure that they are positioned strictly vertically, using a level or square, and are joined at right angles. Having grabbed it in 2-3 places, we once again make sure that their location is correct and finish cooking.

Afterwards it is welded back wall. The entire internal space must be divided into three parts:

1. Smoke circulation
2. Firebox
3. Ash pan

The last two must be separated by a grate on which the solid fuel(peat, firewood). It is done as follows:

1. From the inside on the sides at a certain height (10-15 cm), corners are welded over the entire length
2. For the grate, it is necessary to prepare strips of thick sheet steel with a width of 25-30 mm and a length corresponding to the width of the potbelly stove

• The distance between the plates is about 5 cm
• The strips are welded to two metal rods with a diameter of 15-20 mm as reliably as possible, since they have to perform another role - stiffeners

There is no need to weld the grille to the inner corners. If necessary (cleaning the potbelly stove, repairs), it can be easily obtained. After some time, some plates may burn out and will need to be replaced. There are many more reasons to leave the grille removable.

The next step is to weld two metal rods on top on which the reflector will be located. The latter is a metal sheet that separates the smoke circulation and the firebox. The reflector is made removable.

It is necessary to position the reflector so that a channel is formed in front, allowing smoke to escape. It will heat up inside the most, so it is made of very thick metal (12-16 mm).

The time has come to begin the final stages of work. First, the potbelly stove is welded. It would be a good idea to provide a hole for the chimney pipe in advance. Then the upper jumper is cut out and welded, then a narrower one, placed at the level of the grate and separating the doors of the grate and the ash pan.

There is no need to worry too much about the size of the doors. The main thing is that it is convenient to lay firewood through them and remove ashes and ash. The door for the firebox is made, as a rule, almost the entire width so that the reflector and grate can be removed; for the ash pan it is narrower.

Having put everything together, it’s time to think about installing finished design on the legs. It is recommended to make them from a metal tube 2-3 cm in diameter and 8-10 cm in length with a nut welded at the end and a bolt screwed in. This will allow you to adjust the height. This step may seem strange to many, but during the installation process everything will become clear.

The time has come to think about a chimney, which will be made of a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. In this case, it should be led out through a hole in the wall. Bends are made at an angle of 45 degrees; there should be no horizontal sections.

A rotating damper must be provided at the lower end of the chimney. For her from sheet metal a circle is cut out with a slightly smaller diameter similar characteristics pipe in which a hole is drilled for a handle for rotation. The latter can be made from a metal rod.

The chimney pipe must be placed on a sleeve 15-20 cm high. It is made from a product with a diameter slightly smaller than the chimney pipe and is welded along the hole to top cover. It's time to install the stove, adjust the height and that's it - you can heat the room.

A simple potbelly stove made from a can

The simplest potbelly stove is made with your own hands from an ordinary can. There is no need to talk about the durability of such a structure, but it is quickly built, easy to install and provides enough heat.

All the work consists of installing the legs, arranging the outlet pipe and some cosmetic surgeries. To work you need:

• Can
• Flue pipe
• Wire for grate
• Welding machine
• Tools

Let's get started

1. We install the can horizontally and mark where the blower will be, shaped like a rectangle or sickle. Place it under the lid
2. A hole is cut in the wall or bottom of the can, equal to the diameter of the chimney pipe
3. To make a grate, you need to stock up on steel wire. It is bent, carried inside through the lid and carefully unbent so that the zigzag is positioned in the desired position, while it remains convenient to lay wood chips, firewood, etc.
4. The can must be secured to legs, which are cut from tubes or corners and welded
5. The chimney is welded

On outside tank, you can attach a reflector, thanks to which less generated heat will evaporate. Having welded the handles on the sides, the structure can be moved to any other place.

Pros and cons of homemade potbelly stoves

Among the many advantages of such a nondescript, but useful installation highlight:

• Complete autonomy and energy independence
• Works on any solid fuel, including plant remains– this allows you to save a lot of money
• The versatility of the design, which can not only be installed in various rooms, but also used for cooking
• A simple design that you can build yourself from materials available in the garage
• There is no need to construct a monolithic foundation and install a capital chimney pipe

But despite the significant and numerous advantages, a number of disadvantages of potbelly stoves can be identified:

• The high thermal conductivity of the metal leads to rapid fuel burnout and cooling of the furnace
• If the wall thickness is insufficient, they will soon begin to burn out and the oven will fail.
• You need to watch the combustion process and add firewood in time, control the draft
• Resinous and damp logs cause difficult to remove soot in the chimney pipe

Video - another option for making a stove

In custody

A homemade potbelly stove is a reliable and effective assistant in a cold workroom or your own garage. Its production is not difficult, and to start work there is no need for large material investments.

To create this option, the following types of material are required:

1. metal sheet, several pieces, 5 mm thick. We will make all the parts and blanks from them.
2. Pipes for making some structural elements.
3. Pipe under the chimney.

Process of creation

The drawing below of the potbelly stove shows all necessary details, indicating their sizes.

So, we will divide all the work on creating a potbelly stove using waste as a raw material into successive steps:

1. We mark all the necessary parts on a sheet of metal, and then cut them out using a grinding machine. The edges of the resulting workpieces must be thoroughly cleaned.
2. We take a pipe of the required length and drill round holes in it. In the future, this pipe will be used to connect the upper and lower tanks of the stove.
3. Take the top tank and cut an opening on top required size. This opening will not be located in the center, but will shift to the left of it. We prepare this hole for the chimney pipe.
   From the bottom side we cut out an opening, shifting it to the right. It will serve as an entrance for the connecting pipe.
4. We weld two circles to the part of the pipe that determines the thickness of the upper container.
5. We will do the same with the bottom of the stove. But now we will cut the opening for the incoming connecting pipe in the center of the container. In addition, we need to cut another hole - a neck through which we will fill the stove with fuel. We provide a sliding cover for this hole.
6. WITH reverse side We weld 3-4 legs of the lower tank. This will ensure stability.
7. To give rigidity to the structure and strengthen it, we connect both tanks to each other using metal brackets.
8. The main work points are completed, it's time to think about beauty. We carefully clean the welds, and then paint the stove using heat-resistant paint. Painting the stove will also protect it from premature rusting.
9. The last step is installation of the chimney pipe.

Principle of operation

The operation of this type of potbelly stove can be described as follows: pour waste oil into the lower container through the neck. Next, using a torch or paper, ignite the fuel through the opening. As soon as the oil raw material flares up in the tank, close the hole with the sliding lid.

The combustion process is enhanced by air entering the connecting pipe through the holes made. The air is heated and rises through the pipe to the upper part of the structure, while heating the surface of the container so that the kettle can easily be warmed on it. The big advantage of this model of potbelly stove is that there will be no unpleasant situations with a lack of fuel, since motorists always have used oil in the garage.

Why you can’t extinguish boiling oil, fat, paraffin with water. If you use a stove during work, you must have a fire extinguisher and sand.

Model No. 2 – potbelly stove made from a metal barrel or pipe

For this design, a metal barrel or pipe with a certain diameter is taken. An excellent option for a house in the country, and if you assemble it beautifully and decorate it, it will look quite good in a living room, while also providing excellent heating.

Step-by-step instructions:

1. Take a container for the stove and mark two rectangles. These will be the entrances for the firebox and ash pan. Cut out these holes.
2. We do not throw away the cut rectangles, as they will serve as material for the doors. To do this, each door is brought to the required size, for which it is framed with strips of metal. Next we install the latch handle.
3. Inside the container (barrels, pipes), moving 10 cm down from the firebox door, we attach corner brackets. Then we will place a grate on them.
4. You can buy a grate ready-made, or you can make it yourself by welding it from reinforcing bars.
5. If you took a pipe as a base, now you should weld its bottom and top.
6. To give stability and raise it above the floor, we weld several legs to the bottom of the container.
7. In the upper part of the tank we prepare an opening for the chimney pipe, where we then weld it.
8. We fix the hinges and hang the doors on them. We mark and secure the hook under the lock.
9. Appearance plays an important role, so the surface and seams should be cleaned. Coating the stove with heat-resistant paint will allow our design to compete with the factory model.
10. When the stove structure is completely assembled, it is necessary to connect it to the chimney pipe, which we take outside to the street.

This type of stove is a good option for heating a room, provided there is enough space, since the stove is quite large. But another plus is the spacious top panel, on which you can install both a kettle and a frying pan.

Model No. 3 – potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder

The gas cylinder has an almost ideal, ready-made shape for the stove structure. A potbelly stove made from a cylinder is well suited for heating garages and country houses.

Let's look at how you can build a stove from a cylinder:

1. Let's start by cutting off the top part of the cylinder where the tap was located and welding a plug here.
2. Next, cut a square opening at the bottom of the cylinder. This will be the entrance to the firebox. We will not throw away the cut off part, as we will make a door out of it. You just need to scald this part, bringing it to the desired size.
3. We weld the hinges, install the door, and attach the handle-lock to it.
4. We make holes on the side of the cylinder that will become the bottom of the structure. They will take on the function of the grate.
5. We prepare the box, making it from metal of a smaller thickness, and secure it under the holes - with a grate. The box will play the role of an ash pan, into which the remains of combustion products fall, and at the same time acting as an ash pit. You need to attach a door to the ash pan.
6. All that remains to do for the stove structure is to make the legs. To do this, we will use a pipe or a metal corner. Using welding, we attach them to the bottom of the fuel tank.
7. In the upper part, on the opposite side of the firebox, we cut an opening in the ash pan and weld the chimney pipe.
8. If desired, you can build a cooking panel on the top surface of the stove. This is done simply - a frame is welded from steel reinforcement. This panel turns out to be quite roomy; you can place two items at the same time.

Model No. 4 – rectangular stove

According to many experts, this type is considered the most optimal, aesthetic, and compact of all the previously listed models of potbelly stoves. This design is perfect for heating a living space.

A rectangular potbelly stove can be made in two variations:

Main purpose

The main task of the potbelly stove rectangular type is heating a room up to 15 sq. m. An ordinary potbelly stove is characterized by rapid heat transfer, but at the same time it cools down very quickly as soon as the wood burns out. This disadvantage can be partially eliminated if you line the stove with bricks. But this is not an option, since bricks will significantly slow down the rate of heat transfer, and retain thermal energy only for a short time.

Modernization of the furnace device

Changes made to the design of the potbelly stove and a different method of fuel supply made it possible to improve the performance properties. At the same time, its basic positive characteristics: fast heat transfer, small dimensions, ease of installation, arrangement, without additional construction of a foundation or creation of a capital pipe.

What did you do for this? In the fuel tank itself, its upper part, 2 plates were welded, which form a labyrinth. Thus, the path of gases has been increased, which means they leave more heat in the oven. Due to the expansion of metal surfaces, heat exchange between gases and the walls of the container has become more efficient.

The fire-fighting components of this model have also been improved: its chimney does not heat up, but remains hot. Proper placement of the pipe head will provide sufficient traction. In this case, the head is placed so as to exclude being in the zone high blood pressure no matter what the wind is. Therefore, it would be better to install it higher than the roof ridge.

Since there is a draft reserve formed due to the temperature of the furnace gases, several additional plates - labyrinths - can be installed in the furnace. This will greatly improve the efficiency of the furnace device.
Another feature of such a stove is the tight placement of the doors on the fuel tank body. This is possible by performing high-quality straightening and sanding of doors. In this case, the door handles are made in the form of wedges. They are not just handles, but also latches that fit into the hooks.

Oven operation

The process of using and operating the stove is as follows: work begins by heating the stove with wood chips and splinters. When there is no draft, the lid is removed from the cooking opening, burning paper is placed under the pipe, and the lid is put back in place. The combustion process can be regulated by fully or partially opening the ash pan door.

When the required air temperature in the room is reached, you need to put four not very thick logs, 40 cm in length, into the stove on the coals and then close the doors well. Lack of oxygen leads to a decrease in the intensity of combustion, which turns into smoldering. Humidity, size, and type of wood affect the smoldering process, which can last several hours. And all this time the oven will release heat to the environment.

In an insulated house, without cracks, even on cold days with sub-zero temperature You can easily spend the night with such a heating stove.

Regarding the danger of poisoning carbon monoxide, then this is excluded. The carbon produced during combustion is much lighter than air and furnace gases, so it is drawn out and floats out through the chimney. Moreover, the combustion process is regulated using doors, not views. Even if the doors are left uncovered, you are only in danger of quickly burning out the fuel.

Preparation method

Let us immediately note that you can take your own sizes based on the available material. We used a steel sheet 200x450 mm. Moreover, its thickness was 3 mm.

You can assemble such a potbelly stove by performing the following operations:

1. Weld the walls of the structure together.
2. Weld the lid on top.
3. Set up the labyrinth plates and grate and attach them using welding. In order to maintain the distance between the plates and the grille, position wooden blocks between them. They do not need to be specially removed later - they will burn out on their own during the fire. Some recommend making the grate for the grate not from rods, but using a sheet with holes made in it, 20 mm in diameter.
4. Make a bottom for the stove.
5. Install the chimney pipe. It is better to take a steel pipe with thick walls. An important point: the pipe must be entirely welded throughout the entire location in the house. If the pipe is straight, then it's simple. When you need to bring a pipe outside through a wall, it is recommended to make a template from wire and weld the pipe and bends using it. Outside the house, outside, the pipe can be extended by simply putting one piece of pipe on top of another.

Why should the pipe be solid indoors, because bad-smelling condensate appears in the pipe under the influence of furnace gases. It is this that, seeping through loose joints, spreads a specific odor.

Fire safety rules

To improve operating safety the stove is installed on a fire-resistant material, for example, bricks, asbestos cement slab. To protect against falling embers and sparks, the floor near the doors is covered with a metal sheet or tiles are laid.

To protect walls, furniture and other things from ignition, protective screens made of asbestos cement sheets. In this case, there is no need to line the surfaces of the boiler with heat-resistant material. The screens are mounted on threaded rods or bolts with bushings.

Although the pipe is not as hot as in other models, it is still worth passing through the wall using a cutter. It involves placing a pipe in it, maintaining a distance of 20 cm. In this case, the empty space is filled with a mixture of asbestos and liquid clay.

These are all the rules, the implementation of which will ensure safe operation.

Bottom line

We have reviewed the most effective potbelly stove that you can make with your own hands. Unfortunately, there is no clear leader among them. There is a different option for each condition.

But still, the most effective potbelly stove can be called a working furnace. It has maximum efficiency, since there is a pyrolysis effect (after-burning of gases).

In second place is a rectangular potbelly stove with an internal labyrinth of gases. This also significantly helps increase efficiency.

I would like to note that each of the furnaces has great potential for modifications and improvements. There are a lot of different options on the Internet on how to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. From directing a fan at it to creating a water circuit. We will cover these points in a separate article.

Conclusion

Each stove has its own pros and cons. Each one fits certain conditions. But it can serve you for a long time, helping with many household chores, and not just heating the room. To do this, you just need to think carefully and choose the model that is suitable specifically for your room.

But if you do not have sufficient skills, then you can always buy a stove. On a local forum in your area there will always be a craftsman with already finished products or ready to make a custom oven.

A small country house, garage or workshop can be heated using a small compact metal furnace, called a potbelly stove. It can be made from an old one steel pipe, a gas cylinder, a barrel and even an old flask, and weld it from sheets of metal. The most important thing is that the metal used to make such a furnace is not too thin.

Potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder, an old flask, a barrel and a stove running on waste fuel

Materials and tools

To create a potbelly stove you will need:
metal 3±0.5 mm thick: more thin sheets will quickly burn out, in addition, under the influence high temperature they may be led, and the furnace will become shapeless; thick-walled metal will take a very long time to warm up;
chimney pipe;
rods 16 mm;
a sheet of metal with a thickness of 0.3 mm for constructing a box for collecting ash;
tape measure, ruler, chalk;
welding machine 140-200A;
grinder for cutting metal; for doing round holes it is more convenient to use a gas cutter;
metal brush for cleaning welding areas;
emery wheel for adjusting doors;
drill and drill bits.

Schemes of potbelly stoves

The main advantage of a rectangular stove, in contrast to oval products made from pipes or gas cylinders, consists in a larger area of ​​the heated surface, so its efficiency will be much greater. The optimal size for a potbelly stove is 800x450x450 mm. A stove of this size will not take up much space and will easily fit even in a small room.

The simplest design is the “Gnome” stove, which consists of a box with a pipe welded to it

An important difference Loginov ovens is the presence of two plates ( reflectors) in the upper part of the combustion chamber. Because gas path at the same time, the heat transfer of such a potbelly stove increases significantly higher than that of a conventional metal stove.

Advice. If you need to reduce the size of the Loginov oven, then it is advisable to change only its width. If the length and height of the structure changes, its efficiency may decrease significantly.

Detailed diagram of Loginov's potbelly stove

The main stages of making a potbelly stove

1. All the details are marked on a sheet of metal: 6 steel rectangles for the walls of the oven, 1 rectangle for creating a smoke reflector, plates for the grate and latch for the door.
2. Cut out sheet metal can be found at any metal depot. The guillotine, unlike the grinder, allows you to cut (chop) it more accurately. In this case, there will be no need to straighten the sheets.
3. The furnace body is made in the form of a rectangle. Their sides are joined together at an angle of 90° and welded together.

Welding the box

4. To avoid mistakes, the furnace box is first only tacked by welding in several places, and only then, after checking its horizontal and vertical positions, its seams are welded.

Important! All connections in the body are thoroughly welded; for checking seams To ensure tightness, you can coat the joints with chalk or kerosene.

5. Welding seams are cleaned with a wire brush.
6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: the firebox, the smoke circulation chamber and the ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ash pan, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the stove, welded on the sides and on the back of the box corners 5x5 cm, on which the grille will be located.

Advice. It is better to make the grate from 2-3 detachable parts. Otherwise, when replacing a burnt grate, it will be difficult to remove it from the firebox.

7. The grating is welded from thick steel rods or strips 30 mm wide. They are attached to 2 stiffeners - rods with a diameter of 20 mm. Since the grates burn out over time, it is better to make such a grate removable.

Manufacturing of grate

8. At a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, two strong rods are welded on which the one or two removable reflectors– thick-walled sheets of metal that will delay the flow of hot gases and send them for afterburning. However, they should not completely block the oven. To allow hot smoke to enter the chimney, an indent of about 8 cm is made from the front (for the first sheet) and back of the stove.

Diagram of the passage of gases in a simple potbelly stove and stove with an installed reflector

Pipe hole

10. The front part of the stove with holes cut in it for the firebox doors and ash pan is welded last.
11. The size of the firebox door must be sufficient to allow fuel to be added and grates to be changed without effort. The hole for the ash pan is made a little smaller.
12. The hinges are welded first to the door, and then to the body of the potbelly stove. They can be bought ready-made or welded from two tubes different diameters. Door handles can be made from a strip of metal or rod.

Welding the door

Important! When attaching the doors, you should fit them to the body as tight as possible; To do this, they are straightened (leveled) and cleaned with an emery wheel. The wedge latches that close the doors are fitted to the body as tightly as possible.

13. You can cook food or heat water on such a stove. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper part of the box. Stove burner, which will be inserted into this hole, can be purchased at any hardware store.
14. Design for ease of use installed on legs or a welded pipe stand.
15. The chimney pipe is connected to the stove using a sleeve.
16. For inserting a gate valve To regulate the smoke output, two holes are drilled in the pipe. A metal rod is inserted into the holes and bent at 90°. A metal “penny” is attached to it in the center of the pipe - a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.

Gate valve for adjusting smoke output

Chimney device

To prevent precious heat from escaping through the pipe too quickly, it must have a special design. Such a device has two main parts: vertical height from 1.2 m, installed at an angle of 90° above the stove and an inclined part called hog, 2.5-4.5 m or more long, in which the smoke burns out. It is the hog that provides up to 1/4 of the heat of the entire oven.

Chimney Hogs

A tall person can touch a heated pipe, so the hog must have a protective mesh cover. To avoid burns, the distance from the floor to this pipe should be 2.2 m. The vertical part of the pipe coming from the stove is additionally wrapped with thermal insulation.

Important! The pipe should be located away from the plastered walls at a distance of 1.2 m. Distance from wooden structures– 1.5 m.

Advice. Laying a pipe through a wooden ceiling and the roof - the process is quite labor-intensive. It is much easier to bring it out through a hole in the wall or window.

Exhausting smoke through the window

Rules for safe installation of a metal stove

A potbelly stove heats up much hotter than a brick stove, so all flammable objects should be kept at a sufficient distance from the stove. If the floor in the room is wooden, it is installed only on bricks or metal sheets. The metal, in turn, is laid on an asbestos sheet with its removal 35 cm or more from the edges of the stove. In the front part in front of the firebox it should protrude 5.5 cm. Asbestos can be replaced with felt impregnated with clay. You can also install such a screen to reflect heat on concrete.

Important! A working oven requires supervision. You should not leave the room where the potbelly stove is heated for a long time.

Installing a potbelly stove on a brick base

We increase the efficiency of the furnace

A potbelly stove can heat a room in literally a matter of minutes. Moreover, you can throw whatever comes to hand into the firebox: since it does not have an extensive network of chimneys, and the smoke in it comes out “directly,” you don’t have to worry about them getting clogged.

But if a conventional heating stove installed in premises for permanent residence, has an extensive network of chimneys that retain heat; in a potbelly stove it goes directly into the pipe, so its efficiency is not too high. That is why it is too “gluttonous” and requires a lot of fuel.

To reduce fuel consumption, you can use the following tips from experienced stove makers:
door to the firebox and vent in such an oven should be as airtight as possible; otherwise, the air supply to the potbelly stove will increase, and the fuel will burn out too quickly;
to regulate the output of warm smoke in the chimney It is advisable to provide a damper;
next to the stove it is possible to provide side metal screens at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stove, in which case it will heat the room not only through heat radiation, but also through convection (circulation warm air);
a potbelly stove, “clad” in a metal casing, will help retain heat much longer;

Potbelly stove in casing

Round furnace with afterburner and casing with heat gun

To retain heat in the room, bends should be built up in the pipe; however, soot will be retained in them, so it is advisable to create a collapsible structure;
the pipe can also be given a stepped shape: arrange the elbows in stages, making a 30° turn with each step; in this case, each of the elbows must be securely attached to the wall with rods;

Stove with chimney elbows

chimney capacity should be less than the productivity of the furnace itself, in which case hot gases will not go into the pipe immediately; its diameter should be only 2.7 times larger than the volume of the firebox, for example, with a firebox volume of 40 l, the diameter should be 110 mm;
you can increase the efficiency of the furnace using blowing the chimney with a fan– this will turn the stove into a kind of smoke cannon;
to reduce air circulation firewood in the stove should fit as tightly as possible; if it is heated with coal, the resulting ash should be stirred up as little as possible;
To regulate the air flow, the door to the ash pit can be made adjustable by equipping it with vertically located slots and valve, which will cover these gaps;
to increase the heating area, it can be finned, that is, welded to its body perpendicular to the stove metal strips;
if you put steam on the stove buckets or metal box with sand, then they will accumulate heat and store it even after the stove goes out; sand backfill or heat accumulator made of stones can also be sewn inside the metal body of the stove;

Scheme of a potbelly stove with sand backfill, the oven is made of a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, its length is 650 mm

Bake, lined with 1-2 layers of brick, will retain heat much longer;

Brick screen

The volume of the oven also matters: the larger area of ​​its walls, the more heat they will release into the room;
bricks or metal sheet, on which the stove is installed, will help not only protect the room from fire, but also retain heat.

In houses where people live for a long time, high-quality and functional heating devices must operate continuously. This will help ensure a comfortable and stable home. temperature regime, and around the clock.

For this purpose, furnaces with optimal heat capacity are usually used. They release heat from occasional fires for as long as possible. In addition, a variety of boilers are widely used, which constantly heat the air or the coolant used. This applies to residential premises and buildings.

Those that belong to the non-residential category are heated a little differently. Due to the fact that heat is needed here only sometimes, it needs to be obtained as quickly as possible and with simultaneous small material costs. Such premises include objects such as greenhouses, various trailers, sheds, small houses. For them the best option there will be an effective potbelly stove with a water circuit, made by yourself and working on development

In terms of its design, this is the most primitive stove, which, at the same time, has long proven its ideal efficiency. It is for this reason that furnaces that operate during mining still remain in demand today. You can easily find a suitable drawing and make the design yourself.

Some manufacturers of modern heating equipment They are still producing high-quality factory-built models, but despite this, potbelly stoves using wood or for testing are quite often made with their own hands, based on a drawing. Moreover, their overall characteristics are sometimes much higher than those of standard factory options.

Below we will describe the main features of this heating device, which will help you decide what important details you need to pay special attention to if you decide to make a stove yourself.

Among the main advantages of this furnace are the following positive factors:
• A potbelly stove is a relatively simple design that can be made without any problems a simple master through the use of available tools and materials;
• As a result, this product is quite mobile, even when using a thick metal sheet or lining;
• Thanks to the presence of walls made of metal, the stove quickly heats the room - precisely for this reason this device for country cottages and garages is an ideal option;
• Low cost of the furnace, as well as the fuel used, since very often such furnaces operate as waste.

Before you make a stove of this type, based on a drawing or photo, you should be aware of some disadvantages. Due to its small heat capacity, such a stove warms up the room when the firebox itself is fired.
The wall of the device becomes very hot, so extreme caution is required when handling the oven.

Basic models of homemade potbelly stoves

According to its principles, a potbelly stove is practically no different from models of a special solid fuel device. This is a certain type of very simple stove in the fireplace category. There are also special models that are equipped with hobs and special bath devices.

Material used to make the stove
Often a potbelly stove is made of high-quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. At different types metal, often used made of natural stone elements. If cast iron is used, then you should count on low heat capacity parameters; it is very difficult to find and it is not easy to cook. Many people prefer steel for this very reason; it is much easier to work with. Moreover, the thicker the material, the longer it will last.
If you plan to make a device for rare applications, for example, for emergency situations with a heating system, then make it from simple iron, whose thickness is 1 mm.
In the process of making a stove, all factory fittings may well be used. This applies to elements such as grates, the necessary doors, burners and valves. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands using steel.

Shape and material for the case
If you want to make a potbelly stove using drawings or photos, you must use the method of cutting a metal sheet.

In addition, the following elements are used:
• Molding profiles;
• Square shaped pipe;
• Special corners;
• Fittings;
• Rod.

All this is required to make the furnace body rectangular in shape. Due to the presence of special planes, the body will differ ideal properties ergonomics. In other words, the potbelly stove will be as stable as possible, it will be easy to process and cover. The stove can be easily and simply docked with a wide variety of structures, objects and parts.

Various metal cabinets and boxes can be used as a base. Often these are cylindrical elements, for example, large-diameter pipes, cans, gas cylinders.

In the process of making a stove with your own hands, you will definitely need to use welding. If the metal is not very thick, the oven can be made using bolts, screws and a drill.
Regardless of the chosen model, it is important to use drawings as the basis for production, because Despite its relative simplicity, certain instructions for implementing the heating device must be followed.

Important structural components

To make a durable potbelly stove for the garage, it is recommended to use detailed diagrams; photos will not help here. The drawing will help you independently create a practical and very effective version of the stove, which will ideal solution for heating a garage or other room.

Manufacturing of the combustion chamber
It is worth noting that the larger the firebox in terms of its area, the better it will be, since the stove, which runs on oil, wood, and waste, transfers the function of efficient heat transfer. In addition, it is important to have a decent area of ​​the bottom of the chamber, then it will be possible to lay firewood or other coolant well. It is for this reason that the shape of the stove should be cylindrical and laid on its side. All rectangular ovens must also be oriented strictly horizontally. A vertical arrangement is only possible if the oven is large in size.

Making an ash pan
This structural element is not always done, since ash can be removed directly from the fuel chamber. To ensure air supply, you just have to drill small holes in the door. If you plan to make a stove for a garage with an ash pan, then it may look like a box. This design makes it possible not to take up the space of the combustion chamber. In this case, the metal can be used quite thin, since there is no danger of burning. There is no need to weld it either, just screw everything in place.

Grate
If such an element is used, it effectively separates the chamber and the ash pan located in the housing. It is quite possible to use factory grates made of cast iron. The distance rule must be observed. The interval between the gratings should be 10 mm. For fastening, it is quite possible to use a special corner, which with its outer edge is turned into the fuel chamber.

Openings and doors
Such elements are usually made of metal, which is usually left over after cutting out the required parts. The doors are connected to the body by welding and steel canopies.

It is mandatory to install a durable locking device - a bolt or bolt.

Openings deserve special attention, since here it is necessary to use standard dimensions that are shown in the drawings:

• For a firebox 250 by 250 mm.
• For the blower - height 100 mm and width 250 mm.
• Awnings are usually placed along one vertical line, with the distance between numerous openings being approximately 10 cm.

To prevent coals from falling out through the openings and doors, it is better to make the firebox opening about a couple of centimeters above the level of the grate.
Gas and smoke removal
Pipes for this furnace should have a diameter of 100 to 150 mm. This element is directly involved in the process of heat transfer, therefore it is made of high-quality steel and is also not insulated.

A part such as a pipe is usually located on the side, as well as at the very top of the furnace, with the first option being the most preferable.

Pipes in a room are usually not led along the shortest lines, but strictly to one of the most remote points and in simultaneous inclined and horizontal sections. This design significantly increases the amount of heat received.

The pipes with which the furnace is equipped, as the drawings show, must be equipped with valves - moving along a guide or rotating.

The need for such elements is based on the fact that it is possible to regulate the process of smoke removal as efficiently as possible and shut off the chimney for the time when the firebox is not being fired.

A valve on the pipes must be installed without fail, especially if various measures are taken to increase the overall heat capacity of the furnace.

Parts to significantly increase combustion and heat capacity
Pipes in the manufacture of a furnace operating on waste oil are not the only necessary element. It is important to ensure an optimal long-term combustion process. For a furnace that runs on waste oil, a special suspended weight is ideal. As the fuel burns, it will press the load against the grate by its gravity. A metal pancake with a hole can be used as such a load.

Stone can be used as elements that provide heat capacity.

Here you can note the following execution options:

1. If the furnace runs on waste oil, a lining with special refractory plates is optimal. It is ideal because the metal body wears out much less, and the volume of the firebox is preserved;
2. Another method is based on covering all the walls with bricks. As a result, you can get a furnace that runs on waste oil;
3. There are drawings of oil-fired stoves that have an open box in their upper part. A stone or brick is laid in it.
4. Very often, a potbelly stove that runs on oil is designed in such a way that there will be a mesh on both sides to firmly fix the stones.

Summing up

This article described the main points for making stoves that run on oil. If you know all the main points of their manufacture, you can quickly make a potbelly stove yourself.

These are just the basics, but there are also numerous additional details such as legs, handles and a protective screen. These details usually reflect the drawings, so everything will be as easy and simple as possible.