In this article we will talk about the design features of the roof of houses built of wood, or rather log houses and houses made of timber. What they have in common is that they are subject to shrinkage after assembly.

Here in all the pictures will be shown, simply because log walls I still find it difficult to draw on the computer. But in general, everything that will be said applies equally to timber houses and log houses.

So that's it wooden buildings Depending on the construction features, house roofs can be divided into two types:

With frame gables;

With gables made of timber or logs.

I Option:

If the roof is made with frame gables, then in principle it is no different from the roofs of brick houses, which we discussed in previous articles.

Let's say we have a box at home, shown in Fig. 1:

Picture 1

We can build either a gable roof with layered rafters, with the latter resting on the floor beams (see Fig. 2):

Figure 2

Or on such a house we can make a roof with hanging rafters, with the latter also supported by floor beams, as shown in Fig. 3 or as described in detail

Figure 3

We see that there is no ridge beam resting on the middle load-bearing partition. The upper ends of the rafters rest on each other through the ridge board. The role of tie bars is performed by floor beams.

We can also use both of these schemes, only support the lower end of the rafters not on the floor beams, but on the mauerlat. Or rather, on the top crown of the box (log house), because V wooden houses it is he who is the Mauerlat. In this case, when using hanging rafters, you will need to add ties. Similar roofs were previously described in articles And .

So we have four schemes. I think we have already talked enough about the sequence of erecting gable roofs and the necessary calculations in previous articles. Which scheme to choose is up to you. From the point of view of reliability and simplicity of construction, I would prefer the very first option - layered rafters supported by floor beams (see Fig. 2), of course, provided that we have a middle load-bearing partition.

II Option:

Now let's talk about the features of the roof of houses with gables made of timber or logs. Their main feature is that the pediment is subject to shrinkage, i.e. Over time, its height changes (decreases), and the angle of inclination of the slopes changes accordingly (also decreases). What could this lead to? Let's look at Figure 4:

Figure 4

We took the same box at home and made gables from timber. A ridge beam was placed on them to install layered rafters. Of course, with such a length, it is obvious that the skate will not survive. Someone here might have the idea to put it under vertical racks, resting them on the middle partition.

But let's just say this idea is very bad. The height of these racks will not change over time, because... shrinkage of wood along the grain is only 0.1-0.3%. The height of the gables can be reduced to 8-10%. Those. with a pediment height of 1.5 meters, it can sit 12-15 cm. Imagine what will happen to the roof.

In this regard, if we want to make gables from timber (logs), the middle partition must be assembled to the very top and settle together with the gables. Figure 5 shows, as an example, several houses where the ridge beam will lower evenly as the house shrinks:

Figure 5

On last photo we see that the ridge beam on the balcony is supported by a vertical post. But this stand is installed through a special screw compensator for the shrinkage of the log house.

Now a little about securing the lower ends of the rafters on houses with gables made of logs or timber.

If we imagine the process of shrinking the pediment and, accordingly, lowering the upper end of the rafter, it becomes obvious that the lower end of the rafter will shift relative to the wall, i.e. as if to slide down. But in this case, how to secure the rafter to ensure its mobility. The methods of attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat, which we considered earlier, are not suitable here. And the scheme with the rafters resting on the floor beams is not applicable at all in this case.

How this connection is made is shown in Figure 6:

Figure 6

A shallow cut is made on a beam or log (the saw blade is not filed down) and a special sliding support is installed. You need to keep an eye on two things. The “slider” should be perpendicular to the rafters, and during installation it should be cocked to its lowest position (as shown in the photo above) to ensure the maximum possible movement of the rafters when the pediment shrinks.

The connection of the rafters to each other at the top of the ridge also has its own characteristics. They should be able to slightly change the angle of inclination when shrinking. The two simplest ways to achieve this are shown in Figure 7:

Figure 7

So, let's summarize. In roofs with gables made of logs or beams, the rafters should be able to move when shrinking and nothing should interfere with this. No tie rods or additional intermediate posts are placed on such rafters. The connections are also made movable.

The roof is the most important part of any house... Well, you already know this, so let’s skip the introductory overflows from empty to empty. The article will focus on roofs for log houses, and especially on roofing options for log houses with chopped gables.

By the way, speaking in strict terminology, the roof is the entire structure that crowns the house. And the roofing is the roof deck itself - slate, tiles, etc. Also: what is commonly called a pediment is, strictly speaking, a gable - a continuation of the end wall of the house, that part of it that is limited by the slopes of the roof. The pediment is an architectural decoration, and it is usually separated by a cornice from the main facade.

And here is the pediment.

How can roofs differ?

• According to the form.

Log houses, as a rule, have pitched roofs of various shapes. The most typical and simplest one for private houses is a gable (or gable) one. This is exactly what we will talk about in this article.

Also in low-rise construction, attics and, accordingly, mansard roof shapes are popular. However, for the attic it is not necessary to construct a broken-shaped roof. You can make a so-called “half-attic” if you raise the walls by approximately 1/3 or half of the floor and install a regular gable roof. You can even get by with a regular gable (triangular) roof if it is wide and high enough.

• According to the degree of insulation.

In principle, you can cover the sheathing with slate, and you’re done. And to insulate the ceiling - the ceiling between the attic and the living floor. This is, of course, the simplest and most brutal option. Many people prefer to tinker more thoroughly with a roof, even a cold one - especially now, when so many materials have appeared, and according to the assurances of their manufacturers, you cannot take a single step without all kinds of steam, hydro and other insulation and insulation. But the key idea is that it is constructive to insulate attic floor(ceiling) is much simpler than the roof itself. Especially if we are talking about a log house with chopped pediments, and then it will be clear why.

On the other hand, you can make an insulated roof - for the attic, or in order not to make a separate ceiling (for example, in a bathhouse - in a relaxation room).

• According to the design of load-bearing elements:
• Many people know that the main load-bearing elements of the roof are the rafters. But there is also...
• roofing on slabs

• mixed slab-rafter structure.

The rafters can be rigidly connected to the frame of the house, or they can be sliding (“floating”) - an independent rafter structure. Hard ones are traditionally divided into:

• hanging - exert bursting pressure on the walls when the weight of the roof is transferred to the building; permissible with width between supports ( external walls) up to 6 - 6.5 meters;
• layered - connected to each other by a tie - a beam - at the lower ends, and thus exert vertical pressure; mandatory when the step between supports is from 7 meters.

In their pure form, hanging rafters are rare; they are often reinforced with crossbars, additional racks, jibs and other structural elements. The entire structure of a pair of rafters with other elements is called a truss. In addition to suspended and layered structures that are assembled on site, there are roof trusses that are assembled in a factory and delivered ready-made.

• Of course, roofs also differ in appearance. roofing, but this is already understandable.

What kind of roof should be installed on a log house?

For a log house roof with chopped gables, only the option with sliding rafters is suitable.

All this is due to significant shrinkage of the log house. Now we are talking about gable roofs. It's simple: if some part of the frame is higher than another, then the geometry between these parts will change after shrinkage. Each log loses up to 15% of its volume in diameter during shrinkage, but this is quite by and large. For rounded logs the standard is 6-8%.

A chopped pediment is like this:

The logs in the gable (gable) part are called “males”.

If the log house is a flat box, then all its walls will settle equally. But if some parts (gables) are higher than others (longitudinal walls), then the difference in height between them will change, and if you build a roof on rigidly fixed rafters, then it will literally be torn off the frame, the males may fall out... In general, this is fraught with a serious emergency situation.

Here's how the chopped pediment shrinks:

For which log houses are rigid rafter structures suitable? For those without tongs! When the roof is placed on a flat frame box - for example, hip roof. Or you can make a frame pediment (with boards, a blockhouse, etc.) ... But this will not be quite a log house in its pure form.

A full-fledged log house with a gable roof can only have a chopped pediment. Why? Because the pediment is also a part of the house, and a considerable one at that. If you make it frame, it turns out that half the house is a frame assembly. Maybe this is practical - because it is simpler - but in this case, it is practical to build the entire house using frame technology. Log houses are erected for their special merits, and if they are to be done, then do it sensibly and without half-measures.

When to put a roof on a log house?

Immediately after the walls are erected and before installing windows and doors. Sometimes there are recommendations: wait until the shrinkage takes place, or make a temporary roof. It's all nonsense. A house without a roof is not even a house yet. The geometry of the log house is formed during the shrinkage process with all the loads, that is, the house must be completed and the roof too. It makes sense to do temporary roofing only if you have difficulties with the construction of a permanent roof.

Technologies that make it possible to build a log roof that will survive shrinkage exist. There are no objective reasons to postpone construction.

About the attic and attic

It is clear that the attic is a living space, but the attic is usually not. The attic requires major roof insulation, the attic does not.

If we talk about the construction of a load-bearing roof structure in log houses with chopped gables, then it is much easier to make an attic. More precisely, an uninsulated roof. However, this does not mean that the attic space cannot be used as a living space. There you can arrange a summer attic.

In the old days in Rus' they didn’t make “warm” roofs, but they built them in the attic summer rooms. This part of the house was called “terem”.

To create a warm, all-season attic, you will have to tinker a lot with the roof. In this case, if there is a need and opportunity, wouldn’t it be better to build another full floor?

What are the advantages of a house with an attic:

• easier to build;
• the attic becomes a climatic buffer between living quarters and the external environment;
• therefore, there are fewer problems with condensation, ventilation, etc., there are no zones of sudden changes in temperature and humidity in the ceilings, due to which the durability of the roof increases;
• the attic can still be usefully used - as a utility room, or as a summer guest room;
• it is easier to monitor the condition of the roof and carry out routine renovation work And so on.

What are the advantages of an attic? The living space of the house increases, but it’s not for nothing that you get it! Setting up a spacious attic will not cost much less than building another floor.

Anti-shrinkage roof structure for chopped gables

There are two fundamental solutions:

• roof on slags - close in technology to traditional nailless roof structures of traditional Slavic log houses;
• installation of sliding rafters.

There is also a rafter-rafter system, but these are the same sliding rafters, only with the addition of side rafters.

In fact, this is butter oil, because in the first version the load-bearing beams are located horizontally, and in the second version vertically. Both designs are powerful enough to withstand the heaviest, for example, tiled roof. There is no point in duplicating them.

Another thing is that in addition to holding the roof, the sleds also rigidly connect the gables. And when rafters are added to such a structure, they do this in two cases:

• to lay sheathing on the vertical rafters;
• to make a thick pie of a warm roof for the attic.

It is likely that engineering solutions for arranging a warm roof on a slab base are quite possible, but they have not yet been developed, since for now developers have enough rafters. Therefore, if you plan to build an attic, you cannot avoid installing rafters if you do not want to experiment.

Rafters on sliding joints

The rafters are attached above the ridge beam (in the old fashioned way: “prince’s slega”, “knes”) to the upper crown of the longitudinal walls by means of sliding joints, the so-called “sliding joints”. It looks like this:

This mount has two parts:

• guide strip (mounted on the rafter leg);
• support corner (attached to the upper crown).

The length of the guide strip can be different, the maximum will allow the rafter leg to move down by 16 cm. This is more than enough to shrink the highest roof.

It is recommended to attach the guide bar along the axis of the rafter, and this is correct. However, then one wonderful nuance arises. In most photos found on the Internet, you can see that the corner is installed and secured perpendicular to the plank. Moreover, the top of the angle loop is located close to the top edge of the guide. It is not right!

The fact is that when shrinking, the rafter will not only go down, but the angle between the rafter and horizontal line between the top points of the walls (see dynamic shrinkage diagram above). If the rafter rests on a log, then the part of it that goes down to the plumb roof will rise relative to the wall, and the lower part of the fastening guide bar will rise up. But the position of the corner will not change, and the bar will cut into the corner with one edge. As a result, the movable connection unit is deformed.

True, if you cut out grooves for the rafters in the upper crown with a margin for the angle at which the rafter is lowered, then there will be no distortion, the plank together with the rafter leg will simply fall a little lower and will slide normally. But this point must be remembered when installing the rafters, and cut out the groove with a margin so that the rafter fits, or do not adjoin the support corner at the top closely to the guide strip, but it is better to do both.

Description of the dynamic scheme:
1.this is how the rafter will go
2. This is where this part of the rafter will rise, and with it the guide bar
3. This is how this part of the rafter and the guide strip should be lowered, just at an angle of 3°-5°
4. but this is enough for the bar to crash into the corner hinge and begin to pull out the fastening
5. however, if a cut is made that allows the rafter leg to lower in this direction, then there will be no problems

One more thing: attach the corner to the supporting log closer to the inside of the log house - so that there is room for the board, which you will then use to cover the space between the rafters.

And the third important nuance. As a result of shrinkage, the rafters will not only move down, the angles of the roof will also change, not by much - by 3-5 degrees - but this is enough to create problems. One problem - in the sliding fastening - has already been noted. The second is in the connection of the rafters at the ridge. It must be hinged.

In many photos on the Internet you can see this:

And this is an example of fastening a rafter pair in a sliding structure! A slope angle of 3° with a shoulder of about 4 meters (the length of the rafters of a not very wide roof) can seriously affect the geometry of the roof. Rigid fastening of rafters in the ridge is unacceptable! Otherwise, the slippers will be of no use!

You need to fasten the rafters on the ridge either with an overlap, like this:

or this way:

Watch this video to, as they say, “see once” what we’re talking about:

Roof on slabs - ideal for chopped gables

Slegs are horizontal log beams that connect and rigidly fix the gables of the log house; are not only a natural constructive, but also an architectural element. For example, long logs (pomochi) protruding from the gables fit elegantly into the design of a “wild log house” - you can put a wide console on them.

A slab roof structure looks something like this:

What's good about this decision?

• Why rafters if there is already a main one? Basic structure for the roof? Additionally, there is no need to nail or install anything. If you lay them down often enough, then they are a ready-made sheathing on which you can lay, for example, tiles or shingles. In any case, slate or metal tiles will lie on the floor.
• You can put a continuous sheathing (boards end-to-end) on top of it, which is almost a finished roof!
• The legs are cut into the males, and, therefore, when shrinking, they are lowered along with the gable of the log house - there is no need to do anything with sliding fasteners.

Generally speaking, the slab structure appeared much earlier than the rafter structure.

All of the above advantages of slugs are valid if nothing is rigidly attached to them so that this fastening prevents shrinkage. That is, if you nail the sheathing on the legs, then shrinkage will become a problem - the purlins will sink along with the males, but the sheathing and everything that you nailed to them will not.

But! You can lay boards on the beds without fixing them rigidly. Thus, we get either lathing or wooden - for example, plank roofing.

How to do it? It is possible, in principle, to nail the edges of the boards to the ridge beam (knes) along one line parallel to the axis of the knes - so that with a slight change in the angle at which the boardwalk will lie, it will not be torn off. But even this is not necessary.

The old technology of Russian wooden architecture suggests a solution.

Roof "without a single nail"

The chickens cut into several side slugs. The chickens themselves were cut down from spruce trunks, and the hook was made from the root system. The hens supported the stream - a hollowed out log, against which rested the boardwalk - the roof plank. Top part the planks were laid freely on the ridge beam in such a way that during shrinkage the upper ends of the gorges could freely converge. For this purpose, space was left during installation. The ridge beam (knes) was hewn on both sides so that the gorges would fit more tightly.

If you leave 10 cm for lifting the gorges along the Knes, then this will be more than enough, because when shrinking, the chicken will also fall, and therefore the gorges lying on the beds. From above, the gorge was pressed against the ridge beam with an ohlupnik - a heavy hollowed out log. In this way, the gorges were fixed both at the top of the roof and on the plumbs.

Of course, now no one forces you to meticulously follow the ancient technology; where appropriate, you can use nails, screws, etc. The main thing is to grasp the principle. What is it?

Here's what:

In the same way, today you can attach a continuous sheathing to a slab roof. If you don’t want to bother with chickens (although this is no more difficult than with a rafter system), then you can rest the boards against a hollow hollowed out in the upper crown. Moreover, you can do the opposite - attach the boards to the ridge beam, so that they then fall into the hollow in the upper crown. This is exactly how they work when installing a warm roof using “Norwegian” technology, which I will briefly discuss below.

“Disadvantage” of the slug design

This is a very conditional “disadvantage”. The point is that since the rafter system is now in fashion, no current engineering solutions have been developed for arranging a warm roof on slabs. Although such solutions are undoubtedly possible.

However, if you are interested in a roof with a “cold” attic, or a summer attic, then a slab roof is the best option. The roof in this case is better - traditionally - planked.

A little about wooden roofing

It would seem: wooden roof? she'll rot!

This is wrong. A roof made of aspen (similar materials are shingles, ploughshares), or planks can last 40-50, or even more years. An additional advantage is that such a roof is easy and cheap to repair - you only need to replace the damaged elements. In the case of a major renovation of the plank roof, you will only have to change upper layer gorges, the underlay remains, as a rule, undamaged.

What is a plank roof? This is the first layer of hewn boards, on top of which is the second layer. Between them you can lay birch bark (“rock”) for additional insulation, waterproofing and antiseptic effect. Birch bark has powerful antiseptic properties, and extends them to those materials that come into contact with it. There is no point in impregnating such wooden roofs with anything - the rain will quickly wash it away anyway, and there will be no special effect.

I recommend a very high-quality video about roofing in Russian wooden architecture :

As for the “warmth” of such a wooden roof, think for yourself. This, of course, is not 20 cm of some “Rockwell”, but two layers of tightly fitted wood covered with birch bark. In any case, it is warmer than bare slate, tiles, or metal tiles, etc. That is, for an attic or summer attic that is completely protected from severe cold and moisture - excellent. Yes, such a roof does not allow water to pass through. It does not need a vapor barrier (after all, it breathes, just like the walls of a log house!). Therefore, by the way, there is no need to fill wooden roof bitumen, or shove roofing felt there, as some strange people sometimes advise. Due to such attempts at “modernization”, the roof may, on the contrary, rot – because natural ventilation will be disrupted.

Similarly, a shingle roof has the same properties.

Simple and to the point about aspen shingles:

The difference between a gorge and a regular edged board is that when cutting a log into boards, the natural structure of the wood is disrupted - the fibers are torn. During the production of planks and shingles, splitting occurs along the fibers, making these building materials better resistant to aggressive environmental influences.

Warm roof for the attic using “Norwegian” technology

In this case, the point is not in this specific technology - I won’t explain it in detail now - it’s in the principle of constructing such roofs. The general principle is the same everywhere.

As I already said, if you want to make an attic, then you will have to tinker with the slab-rafter structure of the roof. In addition, a broken mansard roof and a chopped pediment of a log house are a bad combination. If there is a log house and male tongs, then it is better to build a semi-attic.

Let me briefly highlight the main points of the general scheme:

1. We have a ledge and a ridge ledge, which is hewn in order to place boards on its hewn edges.

1. We have lower crown with a hollowed-out groove into which the boards fit (they don’t go in all the way - a good margin is left for shrinkage; that is, this sheathing will slide down).
2. The boards are laid end to end in a checkerboard pattern - so that the second layer overlaps the joints of the first - and fastened together - it turns out wooden shield. On top it is a continuous sheathing, on the bottom – that is, inside the house – there is an attic ceiling.

So far, everything looks very much like a wooden roof on slabs, doesn’t it?

1. They put it on the shield.
2. The rafters are placed on sliding fasteners.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the rafters.
4. (It’s interesting here - after all, foam plastic is possible! And why not? Mineral wool is not at all more environmentally friendly and not “more natural”, and for that matter - polystyrene foam is not afraid of condensation, which means there is no need for the hassle with insulation films. But for some reason more often we are talking about mineral wool in the recipes for such “pies”.)
5. On top of the insulation is a waterproofing membrane.
6. And this is where the meaning of the rafters comes in! Another sheathing is attached to them.
7. The finishing roofing material is attached to it.

Get the basic idea: in this whole scheme, sliding rafters appeared only because it was necessary to put insulation, for example. In order to get a “warm” roof for the attic. In any other case, the roof could be laid directly on the first sheathing, or even immediately on the bottom!

This is the general principle:

For the construction of log house roofs with chopped (male) gables, if it is possible and even necessary to install powerful massive slabs, the installation of rafters is only necessary in the case of arranging an attic.

In general, you need to think creatively so as not to do bad, unnecessary work. And now many people have a strange and irrational belief that no matter what kind of roof there is, rafters are a must! But this is far from true.

• Do not try to make a roof with a steep slope - they say, so that the snow melts and the rain does not fall. The rain will still hit the roof, and snow is a natural insulation in winter. Without snow, the roof is colder. Remember, if the snow does not fall on time, then winter crops freeze - from school biology.

A normal roof will also have a slope of 18-20 degrees. For shingles and planks - from 28. The lower the slope, the less materials and it will take a lot of work on the roof.

• Rafters are usually made from beams 50x150 (200) mm. You can often take a width of 40mm. According to regulations, the roof structure must support the weight roofing material plus 200 kg per square meter of area.

• It is enough to attach the sliding connection to the rafters on one side; if you attach them on both sides, they will be in the same place! - wear out the rafters.
• You can perfectly use unedged boards in roof construction, but it is important to remove the bark from it and plan the sapwood. Under the bark there are areas of moisture accumulation and decay.

Finally, a video about making chickens - the structural elements of a “roof without nails” - is not so difficult:

You have decided on a house, that’s already good! We hope your choice is a log house! And now an equally important issue is tormenting us - the roof.

Which roof to choose?

Which roof will best harmonize with a log house made of rounded logs? What roofing covering will best protect a log house or a log bathhouse from the adverse effects of the external environment?

Let's talk... Again, let's go back to construction market, which offers a wide range of roofing materials. The main desire is for it to be beautiful, to your liking, and to serve for many years. The variety of products makes my head spin, but I really want the wishes for the roof to coincide with the possibilities.

Now there is a huge selection of roofing materials and services on the market. It is very difficult to understand all this diversity; for this you need to write a separate website. Therefore, in this article we will consider only part of the finishing roofing materials and only superficially.

What types of roofing do we draw your attention to in this article: metal tiles and soft tiles. Both materials are in great demand at this time.

The most common, affordable, popular and suitable for a house made of logs or log baths are metal tiles and bitumen (soft) tiles.

These two types of coatings are relatively inexpensive, durable and beautiful. In our opinion, metal tiles harmonize well with a house or bathhouse made of rounded logs, while soft tiles are more suitable for a hand-cut house or bathhouse.

In terms of durability, these two options serve approximately the same.

They are also similar in cost, the only difference is that preparing the surface for installing soft tiles is more complicated and more expensive in terms of materials and cost of work. So, a roof made of soft tiles will cost you about 30-40% more..

In addition to aesthetic perception, there are differences in the installation and performance properties of these materials. Soft tiles are a much less slippery coating than metal tiles, therefore, on sloping roofs made of soft tiles, all kinds of foreign particles can be retained, causing the formation of various fungi, etc. This can be easily avoided by periodically cleaning the roof; also, bitumen roofing, unlike metal tiles, is a flammable material!

Metal tiles, in turn, are much lighter than soft tiles, which is much worse for a log house, since the upper crowns remain under-loaded during shrinkage.

Also, the “disadvantages” of metal tiles include sound permeability. Metal tiles are quite noisy during rain or hail. In general, both there are pros and cons. The choice is yours!

Details about metal tiles

Metal tiles are made of galvanized steel with double-sided polymer protective coating. She happens to be lightweight material and convenient to use. Pros: the ability to fit on different roof configurations, with any sizes. We are also pleased with the wide range of color options, this allows you to make your roof individual. A roof made of metal tiles can be covered at any time of the year, thanks to its good technical characteristics, which are not afraid of rain, cold or wind. This choice is one of the cost-effective ones, which is why it is quite popular. Undoubtedly, it looks very harmoniously combined with a log house made of rounded logs! But we advise you to accurately calculate the number of sheets, otherwise the consumption may increase significantly. Due to the specifics of the material, there is a risk of condensation. We recommend that, in order to avoid it, do not forget about under-roofing films, such as a vapor barrier, a hydrobarrier, and then this problem will be solved. There is also a minus - low noise insulation; thanks to the insulation, a small amount of noise resistance can be achieved. Metal tiles are guaranteed for up to 25 years.

Metal tiles are a good choice for a wooden country house!

This is what an almost completed metal tile roof looks like on a rounded log house. Agree, the combination of logs and metal looks good.

In progress. After installing the windproof film, counter battens and sheathing, everything is ready for installation of the metal tile itself.

The rafter system has just been completed. It is necessary to trim the logs of the gables and continue working further.

These were photographs from our practice.

Scheme of a metal roofing pie

Now a little theory. Let's look at the diagram to see what the roof looks like in cross-section, as they say, “roofing pie”

The rafter system is most often made from boards with a section of 50x200 or from timber 100x200.

For the counter-lattice, use a 50x50 block, install it in parts, leaving gaps between the bars for ventilation of the roof.

For the lathing, use a board with a cross-section of 25x100 or 125. The lathing is packed with a pitch equal to the pitch of the metal tile wave (most often it is 350 mm).

A windproof membrane is installed between the rafters and the falling beam (counter-lattice).

The metal tile itself is secured using special self-tapping screws with rubberized washers, so that the self-tapping screw is located under the crest of the tile wave.

Mounted on the rafter system from below interior lining through a vapor barrier membrane, and free space between the membranes, usually the width of the rafter leg, is filled with insulation.

After this, the roof is equipped with eaves, wind and ridge strips and a drainage system is made or installed. Roof log house metal tiles are ready!

Now about soft tiles or, as they are also called, flexible bitumen shingles.

Due to its flexibility, it is a very convenient material; it is very durable with its low weight.

Soft tiles also boast resistance to adverse climatic factors and are waterproof. It does not rot and is not affected by corrosion. This type of tile is resistant to fires and high technical control requirements are observed in its production.

Unlike metal tiles, bitumen shingles still have a recommended temperature regime for installation from +5 to +25 degrees. Again, we strongly recommend the use of waterproofing, especially when complex structures roofs.

During installation, you can do without additional expensive auxiliary equipment, and this material does not have a lot of waste.

But, most importantly, in contrast to metal tiles, you are not afraid of any noise from rain and hail due to good sound insulation. Flexible tiles are not afraid of frost and will also not upset you with the choice of model and color range.

Now there are a few disadvantages that you should know: soft tiles are more expensive than metal tiles, for installation they require obligatory lathing and, as already mentioned, compliance with temperature recommendations. Repairing shingles is not an easy task, be prepared, but the pros undoubtedly outweigh the cons. The guarantee on flexible tiles is up to approximately 25 years (valid for tightness). Covering a log house with soft tiles gives it a stylish and rich look.

Bituminous shingles harmonize perfectly with a log house or log bathhouse!

After installation rafter system(due to the design features of this bathhouse (the Ponamorevo bathhouse), the rafters are made of boards with a section of 50x150), at the same time the installation of wind protection, counter battens and sheathing is carried out.

The installation of asphalt shingles has just been completed. It is also necessary to install a windproof board, hem the boxes, install a drainage system and, of course, remove debris!)))

These photos were also taken at our facility.

Roofing pie diagram of soft tiles

And again a little theory. Below we provide a diagram of a roofing pie for bitumen shingles.

The only difference is that installation of bitumen shingles requires a perfectly smooth and flat surface. That is, unlike metal tiles, for soft tiles it is necessary to perform continuous sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood. For this, moisture-resistant OSB or OSB boards are most often used.

In all other respects, the roofing “pie” is not much different, except that it is still necessary to install it partially (along the edges of the roof planes) or completely along the entire plane under the bitumen shingles underlay carpet. But it's not very expensive.

So, the choice of roofing system is yours. Of course, there are many more options for roofing, and in our article we have focused on just two, as the most popular.

Good luck and patience to you in your construction, we hope that this is a log bathhouse or a log house!

The design diagrams for roofing pies are taken from open sources on the Internet.

The choice is yours, we are not inclining you to anything, good luck!!!

Every developer dreams of building a beautiful reliable roof and... forget about her, if not forever, then at least for a long time. We will talk now about how to realize this dream.

Choosing roofing material for your future log house is a very delicate process. I want the roof to be beautiful and durable. The existing variety of roofing materials is shocking at first. What to choose? Everything is presented on the market: from the banal roofing felt and the well-known slate to the more exotic slate, reeds and shingles. When such a question arose before us, we set a clear criterion for ourselves: sufficient durability and modern appearance with an optimal price/quality ratio.

As a result of the analysis, two candidates remained: metal tiles and soft tiles. It is no coincidence that these two roofing materials are now the most common. My wife advocated for metal tiles, but I liked soft tiles. Both materials have their drawbacks, which stopped us in our final choice.

The sound insulation of a metal tile roof leaves much to be desired. Insulation, at best, will only change the tone of the noise of rain, wind or the footsteps of our feathered neighbors. The second drawback is the increased formation of condensation, which increases the risk of moisture penetration into the insulation and increases corrosion of the roof itself. The fact is that metal tiles are more protected from outside. When self-tapping screws expose an unprotected part of the metal, and besides, condensation accumulates in the places where the profile is attached to the sheathing, all the conditions for corrosion are created. Moreover, corrosion develops hidden and will make itself felt at the most unpredictable moment. From conversations with builders, another unpleasant factor emerged. Metal tiles require delicate installation. It is enough for the roofer to turn on his heel while standing on sprayed metal tiles, and this mineral chip will work like sandpaper - cutting off all layers of protection. Of course, all these scratches can be painted over, but are you sure that this will be done?

Soft tiles are a relatively new material and their durability is still based more on laboratory tests. Be sure to pay attention to the quality of the material, try the “scales” for bending and breaking. Inexpensive models, especially domestic ones, often simply break apart. As a fan of soft tiles, I had to study their properties in detail and defend their advantages in family councils. As far as I understand, soft tiles provide an absolute advantage only for complex roofs when cutting off roofing material is minimized.

Once, while still at the stage of making the log house, we got into a conversation with Denis Migachev (general director of the Rus Log Company company, which built the log house for us). After listening to our horror stories, either about a crow breaking through a soft tile on a ridge with its beak, or about the drumming noise of rain on metal tiles (my wife and I were having a comic “tug of war”), Denis asked if we had thought about natural tiles. He considered my words that I was not a Rockefeller inappropriate, explaining that we were not talking about ceramic, but about cement-sand tiles (CST). At his suggestion, we began to study this area and found out that the price of the issue was indeed comparable to the cost of high-quality soft and metal tiles. So for our gable roof, with an area of ​​125 sq.m., a complete set of Frankfurt tile materials from the Braas company amounted to about 70 thousand rubles. (2008 prices) And this includes all the minimum necessary additional elements, and they are precisely the most expensive.

Advice
For the roofs of log houses we recommend natural tiles. It has increased weight, which reduces the shrinkage period of the log house and prevents possible deformation of the logs. Denis Migachev, General Director construction company"Log Rus'"

Why didn't we pay attention to the CHR earlier? I asked myself this question with surprise. Probably the stereotypes worked, that natural tiles inaccessible to the average person. Fortunately, times are changing, and if in the dashing nineties rare cell phones were just a mandatory addition to crimson jackets, now grandmothers everywhere send SMS to their grandchildren (children learn the alphabet using them), and parents’ “mobile phones” have become the favorite toys of children. Apparently the same thing happened with natural tiles, I just wasn’t ready for it yet. Price is pricey, but we wanted to understand what the CHR is. How is it different from ceramic tiles, and if it is significantly (2-3 times) cheaper, then why. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this roofing material?

As it turned out, the history of the issue dates back to the post-war years. After the Second World War, it was necessary to rebuild Europe. There was no question about roofing material - only natural tiles. But existing technologies for the production of ceramic tiles could not provide the required volumes, and the price was prohibitively high.

The solution was proposed by Rudolf Braas (the company “Braas” was named after him). Instead of the labor-intensive and energy-intensive technology for the production of ceramic tiles, the technology for creating cement-sand tiles of the Frankfurt model was proposed. What is the difference?

When producing ceramic tiles in a special mold, under high pressure, the clay blank is given the required shape, then the blank is dried, a color coating is applied on top, and then the tile is fired in a kiln at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. The first procedure is difficult to put on stream and this becomes a “bottleneck” for a sharp increase in production volumes.

The technique proposed by Braas, on the contrary, is very technologically advanced and does not require large expenses for firing. The composition of CPC is also natural: quartz sand, Portland cement, water, iron oxide pigment (it colors the entire structure of the tile) and acrylic dye (for coloring the surface of the tile). At the heart of everything is the conveyor. The colored concrete mass is poured into a continuous line of molds, it is given the required shape on a conveyor using rolling rollers, acrylic dye is applied to the wet surface and then, within 12 hours, the workpiece hardens at a temperature of about 60 degrees. After this, the acrylic dye is reapplied.

This photo of the roof described in the article was taken in 2013 from the attic bedroom. By the way, most of the author’s articles, published later, were no longer included in the Landowner magazine, but were published on the pages of our website. In particular, a story about the completion of the roofing pie in the house and finishing the attic ceiling

Like regular concrete, tiles only increase in strength over time. The advantages of CPC include painting the entire mass of tiles (there will be no stains on chips or cuts). sudden change color) and the absence of unfilled pores (usually organic inclusions burn out during firing) - the tiles absorb moisture less.

In addition to the fact that tiles are natural and therefore environmentally friendly, they have a number of additional advantages: they muffle the noise of rain and wind well, do not heat up so much in hot weather, and provide better ventilation roofing pie, easy to repair (only the tiles around the perimeter are screwed to the sheathing, the rest lie free). In terms of service life it is positioned as “eternal”.

Don't let the heavy weight of such a roof scare you. In fact, the rafter system is designed for a significant snow and wind load (about 200 kg/m2) and the share of the weight of the roof itself, even a tiled one (50 kg/m2), is not so large here. For example, we didn’t even need to adjust the design of the house’s rafter system.

So, we have decided on the roofing material, now the question arose of how to build and who can be trusted to do it. We knew that building a roof for a log house is a very specific operation. After considering several commercial proposals, we settled on a company from Vyborg, which had previously made our foundation quite well (the construction of the foundation and log house is described in the August issue of “Landowner”). The personal factor and mutual trust mean a lot, and we have already been convinced of their ability to solve complex issues that arise. In addition, the company that manufactured the log house was ready to provide the necessary consultations.

First, it was necessary to decide on the procedure for solving two issues caused by the characteristics of a log house (the presence of shrinkage of the log house, uneven wall surfaces, etc.):

• how to connect the rafters to each other and to the elements of the log house (ridge logs, beams and top logs of the walls);
• how to ensure elegant docking in the future sloping ceiling attics with vertical log walls
;

The fact is that the rafter system of a log house differs from classical schemes layered and hanging rafters. In the first years of its life, the log house shrinks by 5-10% of its height. During the shrinkage of the attic floor, the rafters should smoothly slide along the beds (these are logs parallel to the ridge log) and the top logs of the walls on which the rafters rest. A fixed connection of rafters is permissible only with a ridge log.

At the ridge, the rafters can be connected to each other end-to-end or overlapping. To connect the rafters, it is better to use steel plates with bolts, or, in extreme cases, nails. The use of self-tapping screws is undesirable, since they are relatively fragile and may not withstand heavy loads.

The rafters themselves are edged boards with a section of 150..200 by 50 mm. It is advisable to cover the rafters and sheathing with fire and bioprotection agents. Since water-based antiseptics are used (for internal structural elements), I categorically do not recommend using coloring preparations. Many developers have been burned by this. The fact is that between the installation of the rafters and the laying of the roofing material will pass time, and the very first rain will paint your log walls the color of an antiseptic, which, most likely, is not part of your plans.

The most delicate point in such a rafter system is the use of movable joints (“slides”) that fasten the rafters and the upper logs of the walls (the rafters are not fixed on the slats, but simply lie under their own weight). Such a connection in a modern design consists of a corner fixed to a log and a guide ruler connected to the corner, which is attached to the rafters and allows them to move relative to the corner.

The correct installation of these elements is extremely important, otherwise the entire roof may “freeze”, which will lead to disastrous consequences. What you need to pay attention to:

• the guide ruler should be attached parallel to the rafters;
• a platform is usually prepared for a corner on a log; the corner itself must be strictly perpendicular to the ruler, and therefore to the rafters;
• the corner should be located at the bottom of the ruler, allowing the rafters to slide down 7-8 cm;
• The screws securing the corner should not penetrate into the rafters.

To solve the second issue - a beautiful and reliable connection of the attic ceiling with the wall, two approaches are possible. If you plan to lay the insulation immediately and form a roofing pie from the bottom up, then it is better to use the Norwegian method. At the same time, a cut is made in the walls and the attic ceiling cladding, vapor barrier, rafters, insulation between them are sequentially laid into it, then waterproofing on top, sheathing even higher and, finally, the selected roofing material.

If you decide to first build the roof itself, and later (for example, after the main shrinkage of the log house) to form the remaining part of the roofing pie (i.e. form it from top to bottom), then you should use German technology, which has become widespread in Russia. In this case, after installing the rafters, grooves are cut in all internal walls parallel to the pediment, parallel to the lower edges of the rafters. The width of the groove is taken equal to the thickness of the material with which it is planned to sheathe the attic ceiling. The depth of the groove is usually 3-5 cm and depends on the thickness of the logs. This is a very labor-intensive procedure that requires highly qualified carpenters and quality instrument. At first I was worried that the construction crew wouldn't be able to take it on, but they rose to the occasion.

Of course, builders can offer you less labor-intensive options: cut the lining figuratively (bending around the logs) or place decorative corners at the junction of the ceiling and gable walls. But that's not very healthy. Firstly, the lining also dries out and cracks will form in the future, secondly, as we remember, the roof together with the attic ceiling will move due to shrinkage of the log house and the figuredly cut lining can simply be torn off, thirdly, decorative corners look good on smooth walls , but on log ones, alas, not very much.

By the way, the builders solved another problem. To ensure unhindered sliding of the attic ceiling relatively easily, it was decided to raise the rafters above the ridge log and the slabs by the thickness of the lining. To do this, special planks were placed under the rafters on the ridge log and on the beams, the thickness corresponding to the thickness of the future ceiling cladding. At the lower point of support of the rafters - the logs of the walls - the depth of the groove was reduced by the same amount.

Advice
It is more reliable to entrust the selection and purchase of lumber and hardware to the construction company erecting the roof. She probably has well-established connections, which will ensure required quality rafters and sheathing at comparable prices. To deliver tiles to the roof, it is convenient to use a special chute, along which the tiles are carefully and safely lifted on a skid.

The remaining operations of constructing a rafter system and laying roofing material are more or less standard and have been described more than once in the literature. Let us note only a few points.

Trimming of rafters and decorative design. Rafters are usually cut vertically, less often horizontally, or perpendicular to the rafter line. We chose the first option. Pediment and cornice overhangs are sheathed with pediment (frontal) and cornice boards, respectively. Given the significant thickness of the roofing pie (30-35 cm), several boards, usually 10 cm wide, are used, overlapping them. The use of wider boards is undesirable as they are more susceptible to deformation. You can also use plastic panels.

Particular attention should be paid to roof waterproofing. After leveling the plane of the rafters, waterproofing material is laid on top of them. This can be either a vapor-permeable membrane (vapor permeability per day is 750 - 1000 g/m2) or a durable film. Experts advise using membranes. Despite the fact that membranes are 2-3 times more expensive, their vapor permeability is 200-300 times higher. In the cost of a square meter of roofing, the cost of waterproofing is minimal. What does this give? Using a membrane, you can lay it directly on the insulation, creating a single layer of ventilation (between the tiles and the membrane), without worrying about ventilation gap on a skate, etc. If used plain film, then you need to create a two-layer ventilation, creating a mandatory gap of at least 2 cm between the thermal insulation and the film. If the film comes into contact with the thermal insulation, the resulting condensation will penetrate into the thermal insulation and sharply deteriorate its characteristics. The problem is that when laying the roofing pie from top to bottom, it will be difficult for you to estimate the size of this gap and there is a high probability of the thermal insulation film touching it.

Oddly enough, but laying the tiles must begin with the installation of elements of the drainage system, namely the brackets for fastening the gutters. In general, top and bottom fastening of these gutters is acceptable. In the first case, they are attached at the level of the sheathing, in the second - at the level of the rafters. For snowy regions, a top mount is recommended. When marking and bending the brackets, it is necessary to ensure that the gutter is tilted towards the drainpipe (at least 3 mm per 1 meter of gutter).

After installing the brackets, proceed to the actual laying of the tiles. Of course, before this, calculations must be made on the placement of the sheathing bars, onto which the tiles will hook.

Advice
Use special holders for the ridge and spine bars, this will increase the reliability of the structure and you won’t have to “reinvent the wheel.” The valley is one of the most complex elements of the roof. Therefore, do not skimp on high-quality aluminum valleys; they are not afraid of scratches and corrosion.
Roman Spiridonov, technical consultant at Braas

In general, I highly recommend checking out detailed instructions to create a roofing system. It is posted on our company website at . It describes in detail all the steps from calculating roof ventilation to installing decorative elements. These instructions will be of interest to you even if you use tiles from another manufacturer.

The installation supervision from the Braas company turned out to be very useful, which was especially nice; two visits by the specialist were free. This was quite enough to answer the questions that our builders had.

By the way, the company from Vyborg handled its work very conscientiously, quite challenging task. I was surprised to see specially prepared technological maps for performing individual operations, supplemented by detailed drawings. As a result, the roof turned out to be very beautiful. Along the way, a number of other tasks requiring professionalism were solved - the outside of the frame was painted twice (for this it was necessary to build a whole system of additional scaffolding), the beams of the first floor were sawed and installed, the roof of the trailer was put in order, etc.

From my own experience I will say that after two well-done large works (foundation and roof) and a lot useful tips, I no longer have any doubt about who to entrust the further stages of building the house to. I wish you to find a company that will not only complete the assigned work, but will also become a valuable advisor in your difficult life as a developer.

Based on materials from the magazine Landowner of the North-West.
We express our gratitude to Marat Ismagilov

If you have chosen a gable roof for your wooden house, then you will need a log or timber as the main material for its manufacture. The entire process of constructing this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of rafter systems for log houses there are, as well as what roof schemes exist.

Nailless (male) roof

A nailless roof is a structure in which planks are laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the pediment.

In this case, the load-bearing structure is the end walls, the “males”, the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it using the notching method, and a roof is laid on them.

Logs from the longitudinal walls are hidden inside the house; about three of them are needed to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.

To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and is installed in the middle part of the roof.

There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are covered with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a sheathing of thin logs is installed over them.

Types of rafter systems

For the construction of a pitched roof, you can use hanging rafters and layered ones.

This design is the easiest to assemble and its manufacture requires little material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are supported by the emphasis on the outer part of the walls, they exert pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, causing them to move apart.

Layered rafter systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.

Hanging rafter systems

If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not put a load on the walls, the expansion effect is not noticeable. The tie, which is installed in the middle part of the rafter legs, strengthens the rafter.

Roof structure on males

The main supporting system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the gables, and logs (slegs) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof, in some way, is a continuation of the wall, the logs of which become increasingly shorter towards the top.

The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls onto temporary linings. They cut down the log house not to its full height, but in parts, re-arranging the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that the structure can be adjusted on the ground.

The end wall is formed from male logs, which are fastened together with dowels. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.

In order to increase strength, you can connect the poles with male logs:

• using the “paw-to-foot” cutting method in a place where the logs around the corner are not marked;
• “in the paw with a cut”;
• using the cutting method “at the root”.

If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be leaky. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience or knowledge, trust a specialist.

At what angle should the roof slopes be?

This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.

Raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with different slopes, then the board needs to be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord stretched towards the corners.

The board needs to be attached to the wall, the cords should be fixed in the corners. After this, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. A similar procedure must be carried out with the second part of the pediment. Use a water level and focus on the horizon mounted on the boards.

Once the edge of the slopes has been marked, continue installing the gable logs.

Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge with a male log.

If you choose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the gable can be closed with short male logs.

For the second option, experts advise using sheathing made of thick and massive logs. This way you can level and raise the roof a little. The most relevant use of sheathing for roofs made of planks.

When erecting a roof, do not forget that its projection beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the projection is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure using logs with a large cross-section.

Also, for strengthening, you can cut in 2 or 3 ridge ledges and create a step-shaped protrusion in this way. In this case, the presence of lower logs is not necessary; they can be replaced with short logs.

The sheathing should lie flat. Since logs that have been cut cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end using a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find depressions or unevenness, replace them with sawings; eliminate hunchbacks.

Roof structure with hanging rafters

The roof with hanging rafters is a triangular frame, the beams of which run through the entire structure.

The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of ​​the frame: vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are embedded in the beams, transfer the pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.

The design of a roof with hanging rafters has a drawback - the beams bend. Since in such a situation there is no support point for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, it is possible to use material with a smaller cross-section.

Methods for joining wooden parts

For connection and docking building material use different techniques. Depending on the type of structure, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, and staples are used.

Not only the reliability of the units, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.

As the contact area between parts increases, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the beams, make dovetail or claw locks. In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.

The connection of large units can be done independently, using an ax or saw. And it is better to entrust the connection of small, complex joints to professional carpenters.

Installation of rafters on a log house

Log roof rafter system: nailless (male) roof, layered rafters, hanging rafter systems.

Gable roof for a log house: analysis of construction options + technological details

Constructing a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the craftsman to have the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science. The performer will need to first practice making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order to gable roof the log house was built flawlessly, we need information about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful and independent craftsmen, and to customers of construction crews for meaningful control.

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

Popularity chopped baths, cottages, residential buildings is justified by an amazing atmosphere that returns to folk origins. Buildings made from natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal technology and attractive price. A significant advantage is the ability to spontaneously allow excess evaporation to pass through. One cannot help but pay tribute to the solid environmental advantages.

However, the popular natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must be concerned about:

• Dimensional instability wooden structures. Linear movements occurring due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will accompany the structure until completion of operation. In the first years the elements wooden system move more actively, over time the “agility” decreases, but does not disappear.
• Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log houses for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the assembly of the crowns. After installation, wood sags on average by 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Walls made of laminated veneer lumber will sag the least, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
• The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intensive change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding changes insignificantly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances wooden roof will definitely “move out”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops and melt water to pass through. The wood will then begin to rot, resulting in the complete destruction of not only the upper enclosing structure, but also the house as a whole.

Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a wood roof. You need to familiarize yourself with all possible ways construction in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, and what method can be used to extinguish their effect.

Types of angled roofs for log houses

Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep slopes create the impression of a fairy-tale hut. Most suitable angle tilt 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.

A rival in the field of arranging log houses for a gable structure can be a sloping roof, which has a similar or pentagonal cross-sectional configuration. Gable roofs over log houses can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. As finishing coating All types of roofing materials are applicable, including shingles and reeds.

In wooden construction, ancient technologies for constructing roofs at an angle have been preserved, and new methods have emerged that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the method of installation, gable roofs of wooden buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

• The roofs on the males are on chopped and joined log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The load-bearing parts of the roof structure, according to the “male” method, rest directly on the gables. A sheathing is laid on top for installation of the finishing coating.
• Roofs with rafter system. They are constructed in accordance with the regulations dictated by standard technology for the construction of pitched roofs. Rafter roofs can be suspended or layered, resting on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The gables are simply covered with boards, thanks to which the construction budget is reduced along with the effect of a chopped house.

In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. The rafter structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of a male roof so that it does not sag under its own weight, coupled with the roof and snow.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to classify into a specific category, because their decisive design features can be classified in different ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, matrix or transfer, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a tie that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss can be moved higher, as was suggested in another article describing the construction of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but to understand the principle of their design, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

It would be a sin for roof builders using the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. They can be disassembled and reassembled many times as the children's designer. Therefore, the upper crowns are simply removed from their proper places and installed on a suitable flat area.

It is much more pleasant to work on solid ground without risk; there is no need to move along shaky scaffolding and walkways. Under the crown, linings made of aspen chocks are installed. They imitate the previous rows of logs, so there are no complications with leveling and fitting nodes.

If we conditionally divide a log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will be on the walls, and the upper third will be on the frame of the gable roof. Essentially, this is a wedge-shaped top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, the logs are laid in a notch. They are not installed in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after being erected to full height, are filed down to form a clear triangular shape. Then the sheathing is mounted on the base, with roofing material on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge strip, which can be laid in two different ways:

• With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log completing the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped projections of the male are sawed off or hewn into a triangle. There are uncovered areas at the top that will need to be filled with shorties.
• Overlapping with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with male logs, shortened towards the top. The slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The sheathing then has to be constructed from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, you can install rafters, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the beams.

To make slugs, take the smoothest logs Ø 18-20cm. They are fastened with simple notches “in the paw” or complicated analogues “with a notch” or “spike”. Because the edge of the pediment is trimmed or sawed off, notches with horizontal parts of fastening units of the “in-a-pan” type are not suitable. After all, part of the load-bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.

The length should form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the legs are placed in pairs or three in each “step” of the male in order to increase bearing capacity designs. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.

The bulges revealed by the board are trimmed off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to trim more.

The old craftsmen did not use fasteners at all when making roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called nailless roofs. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of the wood, so the structures lasted for hundreds of years.

Combination with rafters

It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of diligent cutting of excess from the legs and males, the cut-in joints can be significantly damaged. In such situations, the classic version is simply supplemented with layered rafters on top. The need to trim the humps then automatically disappears. The final alignment is done along the upper edges of the rafter legs.

The production of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks of notches and leg lengths. They are simply chopped with bowls. Accuracy in cutting the connections between the rafters and the beams is not necessary; on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the beam. The frame of the house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size except for a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters with it, causing the angle of connection between the bottom of the rafter and the top crown to decrease. Those. The rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.

A relatively slight displacement of the rafters that is safe for the roof will be ensured by a wide notch. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, the rafters at the top will come closer together during a period of intense shrinkage. After shrinking, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and/or a tie installed just below. Without waiting for shrinkage, you can connect them with a hinge unit, which allows the wooden parts of the system to move without creating gaps between the frame and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The joints are made with tongue-and-groove notches, and the eaves overhang is extended with fillets. To prevent the gable log roof from being blown off the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the pins hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind loads, you need to tie each rafter leg. After active shrinkage of the wooden structure, loose twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the slugs are not needed at all. Rafter legs get their name from the fact that at the top and bottom they rest on independent supports. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a mauerlat, or on the ceiling beams. There are several options for supporting the top of the gable roof rafter system elements over the log house:

• A ridge or prince's bridle, laid between males. The tops of the rafters laid lightly are not fastened or connected with a hinge for the reasons stated above.
• Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because their edges rest on the walls different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no particular point in installing males for such a roof; the gables are simply sheathed with boards.
• Installed according to matrices supporting structure under the ridge beam. Males in this case again do not form. To compensate for shrinkage support pillars are installed on screw control devices, which make it possible, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. Previously, instead of compensating devices, wooden pads were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

The eaves overhang of a slanted roof over a log house is most often provided by sewn fillies. Although it can be formed by extending the rafter legs, if they are fastened not with notches, but with sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped piles without waiting for shrinkage.

Hanging roof structure diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the box being built. They only have walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a tie, thanks to which the hanging rafters turn into an equilateral triangle, also called a rafter arch or truss. The tightening “takes on the chest” the thrust transmitted in a layered pattern to the walls.

Compensating for the effect of thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. It was happily borrowed by builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that push the walls of the house when the load on the slopes increases. The role of tightening can be successfully played by a ceiling beam. And then it really will not become clear whether it will be necessary to classify it as a layered or hanging category. rafter frame gable roof.

The invaluable advantage of hanging systems is that for production With The roof sides of the log house do not have to go up. All rafter triangles fit together perfectly according to the template and are adjusted in safe conditions.

The first place on the list of disadvantages is taken by restrictions on overlapped spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple rafter arch is used without additional parts that increase the rigidity of the structure. Tightenings for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging, a headstock is installed in the center of the rafter triangle.

To understand the essence of constructing a hanging rafter system, let’s consider the technology of installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams; the connection of the upper edges will be reinforced with a wooden overlay and tie. We will entrust the formation of the eaves overhang to fillets, and we will entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not breed. The gables created by the slopes after installation work Let's sew it up with a board.

To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we will vertically install a board, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We equip both ends with boards, mark the height of the roof on them, using a water or laser level. You need to stretch a construction cord between the boards to mark the ridge line of the roof.

The procedure for installing a hanging roof:

• We align the beam bypasses that extend beyond the foot. We hammer a nail into the outer beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, and saw off with a chainsaw.
• On the ceiling beams we mark the location of the nests required for installing the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in the nails, tighten the lace and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
• We make a template for the roof truss. We apply a board of suitable size with its lower edge to the first matrix, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and cord touch, place a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. We draw a line for the bottom cut along the matrix and mark on the rafter the location of the tooth where the socket is marked on the beam.
• We make rafters using the template and assemble them on a level area.
• We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install them in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and secure it with temporary jibs.
• On the mats inside the log house, using a ruler, two nails and laces, mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. It seems to me that it is more convenient to do this procedure together with marking the nests.
• We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We note the height of the support after the fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
• We install drains, the top of which is secured with two wooden plates.
• We select the grooves in the outer matrices for installing the fillies.
• We sew on the outer fillets, hammer nails into them, and stretch a cord between them.
• We install intermediate fillets along the cord, after installing which we decorate the overhangs with a wind board.

From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected with diagonal wind ties. From the outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by lathing, the type of which is selected according to the type of finishing coating.

Those wishing to install a warm roof will need to install thermal insulation between the rafters. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters before installing the sheathing, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.

The examples and diagrams of gable roofs over log boxes we have given will help you decide on the best construction option. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual technical specifications. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.

In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation and no problems with snow during the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.

Logging a gable roof: how to make a gable roof for a log house

In what ways can a gable roof be constructed on a log house? It is advisable to prefer new or old technology for constructing the roof of a log house.

Methods of attaching rafters to a log house

After erecting the walls and waiting for six months for the shrinkage to complete, you can move on to next stage construction – installation of roofing system. For wooden houses and bathhouses, most often a standard gable roof with a significant slope is chosen, on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for a log house must be strong and correctly installed; the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to install rafters on a log house?

Installation options for the rafter system

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to install the ceiling beams. It is necessary to make a technological hole in the upper crown of the log house, which is called a notch - a beam will be installed into it. In this case, the hole should not be through so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from atmospheric phenomena.

The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic room. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse

The procedure for constructing any building in general is quite simple. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is installed, and then construction is carried out. interior work. The topic of this article is installing rafters on a log house with your own hands.

Installing ceiling beams

If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns when constructing walls do not need to be secured before installing the ceiling beams. Special holes will be made in them, called “notches” for laying beams. The dimensions of the notches are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. An option is possible in which no cutting is made into the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.

The notch for the ceiling beam must be “blind”, i.e. non-through. This will help protect the end of the beam from exposure to weather conditions.

The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.

After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install rafters on the house or bathhouse.

There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:

1. Assemble roof trusses on the ground and lift them onto the house in finished form.
2. Assemble directly on the roof and lift elements of roof trusses there.

The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters that are difficult to lift manually onto the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.

Assembling roof trusses on the ground

In previous articles we talked about the ways in which various elements of roof trusses can be connected. In this article we will look at specific example assemblies of hanging rafters with a crossbar for a bathhouse measuring 5x4 with a gable roof. After assembly, we will install the rafters on the ground - it’s more convenient.

The rafter legs are made of edged boards “fifty” with a width of 10 cm. The crossbar and tie are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The tightening length is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. The slope angles are 40°. Assembly instructions are determined by the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge; to do this, we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40° with a tightening (see photo). We saw off the lower ends under the right angle Same. You can fasten it using bolts, plates, nails, etc., having previously calculated the required quantity for each unit.

The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a notch in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the notch - on the rafter leg. We fasten with screws, nails or other fastening materials.

Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with the outer trusses, so it is better to sheathe them directly on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm we fill the rafters with bars for fastening the sheathing; the material for the bars can be taken in sizes 40x40 or 50x50. The sheathing boards should protrude beyond the tie by a width of 2.5 cm or more, so that water from the gable does not flow onto the sheathing of the bathhouse frame. When the cornice is sheathed, this outlet will be hidden by its sheathing.

You can sheathe the pediment not vertically, but horizontally. Then the sheathing is stuffed vertically, connecting the tie and rafter legs. Here, too, you need to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the tightening side, for the same purposes as in the vertical cladding option.

Installing assembled trusses

After all the trusses are assembled, they need to be lifted sequentially to the roof.

The rafter installation technology is as follows:

1. We raise and secure the outer trusses. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the tightening for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the truss.
2. If this is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. Jib booms can also be used to temporarily secure trusses until the entire system is fully installed. Once all the trusses have been lifted and installed, the jib can be removed.
3. We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and securing it with additional elements if necessary.
4. We install the remaining trusses in the same way as the central one.
5. We connect the trusses together using lathing. It can be made from timber, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the sheathing is determined by the choice of roofing material with which you are going to cover the roof.

In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then lifted and installed in place using ropes. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.

As you can see, in the above example, the installation of trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge girder. If the roof requires ridge run, then it is no longer possible to assemble the rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted onto the roof disassembled and assembled at the installation site.

Assembling rafters on the roof

If the design of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to install them, you need additional support. How to install the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install the ridge girder.

If the gables of your house are made of brick or blocks, then the purlin can be supported on them, while the ends of the purlin should protrude beyond the gables so that you can create a cornice overhang. Purlins are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. The gables must withstand the pressure of the purlin, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to install the roof without rafters, only using ridge and side purlins. In this case, the sheathing is packed onto the purlins. This method is applicable for a roof with a cold attic space; if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to be ventilated, so you will still have to use layered rafters.

For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane does not matter and the rafters can be laid on the ridge girder one by one.

Depending on the material and design loads, rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, racks. We described their fastening scheme in previous articles. If, according to the design of your house, the gables are not designed for the installation of a ridge girder, it is mounted on several racks, which are installed on a bench. In this case, the beam is first installed, the racks are installed on it, then the ridge girder and only then the layered rafters.

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse: technology

Installation of rafters is possible in 2 ways. The first is when the roof truss is assembled on the ground and raised to the roof in finished form. The second is when the rafters are installed directly on the roof.