Construction works require a special approach. Each owner has his own preferences regarding how this or that design will look. Among the most popular finishing materials Special attention worth paying attention to drywall. It has been used in construction for more than 100 years, but even today drywall is an indispensable part of any renovation. Therefore, many people have the question of how to do it on their own. The whole point is that laying drywall on a wall, ceiling, etc. very simple. However, if you plan to do all the work yourself, you need to take into account some subtleties.

Drywall today is actively used for leveling walls indoors.

Preparing to lay plasterboard on the wall surface

At this stage, you need to perform the following actions: prepare materials and a set of tools that will be needed during the work process; make it possible to freely access structures that need finishing; prepare the wall surfaces themselves.

What you need to know when purchasing materials.

1. The selection of materials consists of purchasing required quantity building material for installation. In addition, before laying the gypsum board on the plane of the wall, it is necessary to purchase drywall, metal profiles or wooden slats for constructing the frame structure, fastening parts (dowels-nails, self-tapping screws).
2. In addition, it is necessary to consider some nuances regarding the amount of material purchased. Drywall is often sold in sheets 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. Therefore, consider required amount plasterboard sheets are required, given their dimensions.
3. When buying gypsum board, you need to take into account the estimated location of its installation and order the material according to the technical data (regular, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, etc.). If drywall will be used for false fireplace panels, it is better to buy heat-insulating materials in addition.
4. If we consider materials for building the frame, guide profiles and rack profiles are most often used for this. In addition, all available parts for connection, crosses, mounting hangers, and screws for metal can be useful.

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Tool preparation

Before you start laying drywall yourself, you need to prepare the tools for the job. As a rule, it is recommended to use the following devices:

• screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• mounting knife;
• metal scissors.

When preparing the primary wall planes, it is necessary to have free access to the object in order to clean all easily peeling materials from the wall planes and correct deformed surfaces.

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Marking indoors

Before you start laying drywall, mark the installation locations for finishing materials. At the same time, this action must be taken with the greatest responsibility in order to simplify the process of laying drywall and reduce the number of consumed plasterboards.

They make markings in the following gradation:

1. Having moved away from the primary plane of the wall to the distance required for laying the heat insulator and communications, holes are drilled in the ceiling for screws at the end corners (points) of the wall.
2. Then plumb lines are attached to the screws, and at those points where they touch the floor, fasteners are also attached (but only to the floor plane). Then, placing a single thread between the screws on the ceiling and the same thread between the screws on the floor, mark the primary lines that will show the fastening positions of the profiles for the supporting frame.
3. All other walls of the room are marked in the same way. Screws and tapping cords are removed after all the markings have been drawn, and then the next phase begins.

In order to lay drywall on the wall surface with the greatest effectiveness, when marking, you should adhere to the following tips:

1. It is necessary to use a plumb line or a building level.
2. Retreat to such a distance from the wall surface as to occupy as little space as possible. free space rooms, but at the same time installing gypsum boards without problems.
3. Markings are made on the wall surfaces to indicate the installation location of the profile racks. This is done by using special dyes or using a pencil. The marking is carried out in vertical sections with a distance of 40 or 60 cm (so that the edges of the sheets that are connected to each other rest on one profile stand).

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Construction of a support frame for mounting drywall

Along pre-marked marking lines, profile guides are mounted to the plane of the ceiling and floor, for which, as a rule, a hammer drill is used. The appropriate holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling planes and dowel-nails are installed there. And profiles are attached to them using screws. Here it is important to take into account that the strength of the entire structure depends on the accuracy of this operation. Therefore, the distance between the fastening elements for securing the profile guides is taken in the range from 40 cm to 60 cm (depending on the design load on the plane of the walls of the plasterboard sheets).

At the next stage, the profile guides are mounted to the planes of the walls in the same way, measuring them between the bottom and upper systems profile guides. In other words, the process must be performed in such a way that all profile guides are located in the same plane.

The next step, using markings perpendicular to the floor, is to attach mounting hangers to the wall surfaces, which will subsequently fix the profile posts, giving extra rigidity to the entire structure. Their installation is also done using dowel nails, but it will be important to follow these tips:

1. Place hangers on each marking line with a distance between them of no more than 0.6 m.
2. When placing mounting fasteners on adjacent rows, deflect to enhance the expected rigidity of the frame foundation.
3. When building an arch from plasterboard sheets, use additional perforation objects.

After this, the profile posts are attached to the frame. To do this, they are threaded into the cavities of the lower and upper profile guides and screwed at the connection points using self-tapping screws not only to the guide profiles, but also to straight hangers, and the ends that come out are bent to inner side frame.

When carrying out this action, it may be necessary to enlarge or trim the profile racks, since their length must coincide with the surfaces of the walls. Thus, increasing the racks can be done using special connectors and self-tapping screws, while excess parts can be cut off using ordinary scissors for cutting metal.

All surfaces requiring finishing should be equipped in a similar way. It should be taken into account that in order to increase the strength and improve the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is recommended to install profiles perpendicular to the longitudinal sheets, attaching them to them using fasteners.

Remodel an apartment, divide space in a private house, or simply implement something original design solution– a plasterboard wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!

What you need to know about profiles and drywall?

The desired size of the rooms will be slightly different from the planned ones, because part of the area will be “eaten up” by the new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).

Characteristics of profiles and their purpose

Before buying materials and starting to mark out rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences of the profiles. So, according to their intended purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mounted (PS).

As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical posts are inserted into it.

• D – rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed for fixing drywall on one side only;
• W – profiles for forming a full wall, sewn on both sides;
• C – rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
• U – guides with an edge height of 40 mm;
• 50, 75, 100 – profile width, which should match the racks and guides.

For example, the marking CW 100 means that this is a rack-mount wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of insulation/sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, standard insulation laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool) is suitable.

The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in one length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly not recommended to “increase” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before purchasing racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.

Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Wall plasterboard is available in a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum permissible value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. This sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:

• 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
• 18 mm thick – for loads up to 70 kg;
• double sheets - for heavy loads from 70 kg.

The dimensions of the sheets are standard - width 120 cm, and height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Fire-resistant sheets are also becoming more and more popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a fire source.

Based on these data, you can determine the dimensions of the future room - you need to step back at least 8.75 cm inward from the original markings (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay water pipes or corrugated cables in the walls large diameter, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the selected distance between them.

Installation of plasterboard wall

Often, there are no perfectly straight walls, especially in older houses, so when dividing a room you need to tie it not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.

If all surfaces will be covered with plasterboard, before making new wall, first, using profiles and plasterboards, the existing ones are aligned as much as possible. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will significantly simplify finishing work in the future.

Installation of profiles

Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires great precision. To level the racks, it is advisable to purchase a laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to a regular plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:

1. The profiles adjacent to the walls, floor and ceiling are covered with sealing tape in advance. It performs shock-absorbing and sound-proofing functions.



2. PNs are attached to the floor and ceiling along a pre-marked line in increments of up to 1 m. K wooden surface- with self-tapping screws 50 cm long, and for concrete - with dowels 75 cm long. In the second case, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a hammer drill.



3. Both load-bearing and rack profiles can be attached to the walls. It is important to remember that it must be continuous, so if the ceiling height is more than 3 m, only longer PS will have to be used.
4. If a doorway is provided, a gap equal to the width of the opening is left in the floor profile in this place. It is important to decide in advance on the width of the door - if standard canvas 80 cm, then the doorway needs to be made 88 cm (to install the door frame).
5. PSs begin to be installed from the doorway - they will determine its width. First, the profile is fixed to the floor, after which it is leveled and fixed to the ceiling.
6. The installation step of the racks is any convenient. They are often placed to fasten sheets along the edges and in the center - so you need to know the dimensions of the gypsum boards in advance. The joints of the sheets should be in the middle of the PS; this must be taken into account when installing the profiles.



7. The more frequent the spacing of the posts, the higher the strength of the wall, but also the higher final cost. Also, to give it greater rigidity, insert wooden beam or a supporting profile. For the same purpose, transverse struts made of PS, reinforced with the same timber, are used. They are installed in places of horizontal joints of gypsum boards.





8. A lintel is also installed above the doorway. The height depends on the size of the door. For a standard two-meter canvas, the height should be 205 cm.
9. The jumper is made from PS, which is cut 20-30 cm longer. On each side, retreating 10-15 cm from the edge, respectively, cuts of 45⁰ are made on the side walls so that the bevel is directed outward. The cut sides are folded down, giving the profile a U-shape. (9) The vertical sides are placed on the posts and secured with metal screws. The corners sticking out after cutting on the horizontal part are also screwed to the posts - this ensures maximum reliability of fastening.

Important nuances of installing drywall

The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seam sealing, a chamfer is removed from the top side of all cut edges (for factory edges this is not necessary, it is already there).

More and more builders are choosing to use drywall instead of other materials. After all, this material is easy to work with and can be used to perform a wide range of tasks. Thanks to gypsum plasterboard, even the crooked walls can become perfectly smooth without cracks or differences. And create one or multi-level ceiling won't be a big deal. Many designers are turning to drywall to create unique interiors With decorative niches and arches.

Installation of drywall on the wall frame method

An undeniable advantage of gypsum board is its versatility, which was mentioned above. In addition, drywall does not crumble over time, when correct operation There are no cracks or irregularities.

Drywall sheets will help bring any design idea

Another important argument is that drywall is suitable for carrying pipes, cables and wires into the voids of the structure. Even when we're talking about about plating water pipes or about rooms with high humidity, then gypsum plasterboards with moisture-resistant properties can help here.

Let us also note the environmental friendliness of this material. Neither plaster nor cardboard emit harmful substances during operation.

Tool preparation

When planning to install gypsum boards on walls, first prepare all the components. Remember that only the right technology installation will allow you to create high-quality walls.

Choose drywall based on the location of application. In places with high humidity, GKLV will do an excellent job. And in rooms where flammable products are stored, fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard is suitable. The more properties a gypsum board has, the more expensive it is. But the use of standard sheets in conditions not intended for it is fraught with damage to the coatings.

In addition to the gypsum board sheets themselves, you will need several types of profiles and components - dowels, screws, etc. List of tools:

• Laser level or regular analogue with threads;
• Tape measure, markers, construction knife;
• Metal scissors;
• A hammer drill or drill (professionals use a gas gun to quickly install all the guides to the walls);
• Screwdriver;
• Cutter;
• Spatula for sealing seams.

This is what the main set of tools looks like

The most labor-intensive process is the installation of a wall frame for gypsum boards. What is important here is the correct technology for laying the profile according to the markings made.

If you are faced with the question of choosing a frame made of galvanized steel or wood, then we will immediately note that using wood involves risks. They are that the tree itself is very unpredictable construction material. It does not have durability and is susceptible to rotting and deterioration when exposed to high humidity.

When working with surfaces made of concrete and brick, dowels 40 millimeters long are used. In cases where the frame is attached to more soft materials, it is recommended to use long dowels (80 millimeters). When covering walls made of wood, you can safely use self-tapping screws.

Making the markings

Marking technology requires concentration and correct use tool. The best assistant here is a laser level. But it is irrational to purchase such expensive equipment for one-time installation of gypsum boards on the wall. Therefore, marking more often occurs using a regular level and additional components.

Thanks to laser level professionals make markings in minutes

Having measured the required distance for carrying out communications and laying insulation, a plumb line is fixed on the ceiling, closer to the corner of the wall. At the point where it touches the floor, make a mark (screw in a self-tapping screw). This procedure is done in every corner of the room. Then, to facilitate the marking process, stretch the thread between the horizontal points. Having transferred the lines to the ceiling and floor, the threads are removed. Now you can start installing the profile.

When marking, remember that the wider the indentation from the base of the wall, the more area of ​​the room is “eaten up”. The profile is mounted along this line, and the gypsum board, putty and final coating will increase the thickness by another 1.5-2 centimeters. But the minimum indentation should still be at least four centimeters. Draw the drawing so that it does not get erased after several careless movements along the lines.

Surface marking

Installing the frame

The profile installation technology is simple and only requires correct execution all steps. The guides are attached using dowels to the ceiling and floor, and it is recommended to use sealing tape. Galvanized steel is cut using tin snips.

Next, mark the places where the rack profiles will be installed. They are attached at a distance of 40-60 centimeters (measured from the center of the previous profile). This will allow installation of drywall joints directly in the center of the profile.

If you plan to mount heavy objects on the wall (kitchen cabinets, shelves, plasma TV), then it is recommended to install the profile at intervals of 40 centimeters with the installation of horizontal jumpers in places of future fastening. This will simplify further installation attachments and will prevent fastening materials from being pulled out of the walls.

The rack profiles are carefully inserted first into the lower guides, and then into the upper ones according to the given markings. After this, the racks are attached to the wall using hangers.

Build process metal frame under the cladding

Horizontal profiles are needed to secure drywall joints and provide greater rigidity in areas where attachments will be installed. After securing all the elements, the frame is ready for final stage wall installation.

Further technology involves carrying out communications and laying insulation. You can do without wall insulation, but as practice shows, this helps not only to retain heat, but also to create better sound insulation rooms.

Wall covering and preparation for finishing

The final stage involves installing drywall on the wall. When starting to cut gypsum plasterboard, remember the fragility of the material. Cutting upper layer cardboard on one side and not completely cut on the other, the sheet is placed on the edge of the support and smoothly split. After this, the sheet is turned over, the cardboard is cut and broken to the end. To process such edges, a gypsum plaster planer is used, but you can do without it by working construction knife.

Processing of joints

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at the junctions with the vertical and transverse slats. The sheets are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, placing a short sheet of drywall in each row, either top or bottom. The sheets are joined strictly in the center of the guide, avoiding sagging. Each gypsum board is screwed to the frame along the edges and in the center at a distance of 40-60 cm. If the sheets have a straight edge, then it is recommended to chamfer the vertical joints. This will allow you to better fill the joints.

More details in the video:

If sockets or switches are supposed to be placed on such a wall, then they need to be taken care of in advance. The terminals for sockets and lamps are marked and cut out before mounting on the wall. Then it will be difficult to do this, you can ruin the sheet.

Metal corner protects walls from dents after impacts

Having completed the wall covering, they begin to prepare the surface for application. finishing coating. All joints are carefully puttied and glued with a special reinforced mesh. This mesh will bind the putty material and securely fasten the joints.

External and internal corners the walls are reinforced with corners to provide rigidity and prevent the gypsum board from crumbling.

Before you start puttingty for painting or wallpapering, it makes sense to prime the new walls. The primer will help even out the absorbent properties of the surface, prevent the appearance of microflora and improve adhesion to wallpaper or paint.

In contact with

Covering the surface with plasterboard boards is the installation of plasterboard. This is perhaps the most quick way to level the surface, and probably the most inexpensive. This process goes up to finishing- that is, plastering, painting, wallpapering will take place after the walls are covered with plasterboard.

To install sheets correctly, you will need certain tools and equipment. If you don’t have something, you’ll have to buy it, borrow it from friends, or rent it. But don’t try to save money and do without something: the installation process will not be so comfortable and the work may take longer.

What you need to install drywall:

• Laser level;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Pencil;
• Roulette;
• Dying lace.

These tools are needed for marking.

To make the frame you will need a hammer drill, a hammer, an angle grinder, pliers, metal scissors, and a screwdriver. Well, to work specifically with sheets of drywall, you will need a hacksaw, a lath, a plane and a sharp knife.

You also need to worry about high-quality sealing of screw holes, corners and joints of plasterboard boards. To do this, you will need spatulas, containers for creating mixtures, and also a grater with sandpaper. Rollers and brushes will also come in handy.

What options are there: drywall installation technology

IN modern technology There are two main methods for installing plasterboard sheets - a frameless (adhesive) option and frame method.

It cannot be said that some method is much better if you do not break the rules and choose the method that is optimal for a given specific situation, then the result will be equally good.

Frameless method of laying gypsum boards:

• For this method, the wall covering should not peel off; it can be dry and dust-free, as well as unpainted oil paint or enamel;
• Thermal insulation and glue method do not exist together, therefore insulation is possible only with polystyrene foam;
• And the advantage of the frameless method is that it provides excellent sound insulation from structure-borne noise, you don’t need very many tools, and the distance from the front surface to the base is not that long.

The frame method, as you might guess, involves cladding over a frame, most often a metal one. This method is suitable for more complex work if you are creating a multi-level ceiling or, for example, an arch. Despite the laboriousness of the process, the instructions for implementation themselves will not be extremely complex.

Marking for drywall: installation of gypsum boards

Surface marking is a mandatory step. Don't make the fatal mistake of jumping over this repair point. There is a certain sequence of markup, which, as they say, has its own secrets.

The marking of the walls is carried out as follows:

• Measure a distance of 5 cm from the corner, draw a vertical line on the adjacent wall;
• On the opposite wall, draw a line in the same way, and using a regular long strip, connect these lines on the floor and ceiling;
• Then, from the corner of the wall, mark vertical lines at a distance of about 60 cm, and then make marks in a checkerboard pattern half a meter apart - this will become the place for mounting the mounting suspension;
• Check horizontal level rooms - with a hydro level, or better yet, with a laser level; in domestic and external corners make small marks, measure the distance from these drawings to the ceiling in each corner, and make a mark with the value of this distance.

The last step is necessary in order to find the lowest point of the ceiling. And this is important, because when frame installation the ceiling will drop at least 4 cm from its lowest point. The found height should be marked in each corner, and all the resulting marks are connected, resulting in a horizontal level of the room.

How to cut correctly: how to install drywall

You first need to mark the plasterboard sheet, then cut one paper layer along the marked line with a well-sharpened knife. Then break the sheet so that the plaster base breaks along the cut. Hold the two halves of the sheet at right angles, with reverse side cut through the paper layer.

You will probably have uneven ends and paper will stick out - this can be corrected with a drywall plane or a float with sandpaper. As a result you will receive part plasterboard sheet the right size with smooth, neat edges.

Frame method: drywall, DIY installation

After installing the metal frame, you can begin. One mounting method will be valid for both walls and ceiling. You need to attach the sheet closely to the finished frame so that one edge of the slab is located flush against the wall. Drywall sheets are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Very important:

• When performing work, deepen the screw so that the top does not protrude, but at the same time there is no very deep seating of the fasteners;
• When the cardboard top layer breaks, the fastening point will relax;
• The interval between screws is approximately 25 cm;
• If the height of your ceilings is greater than the dimensions of the gypsum board sheet, you will have to attach an intermediate profile.

All parts of the sheet must be secured, otherwise the joint will certainly crack. In this case, place the subsequent panels in a checkerboard pattern, staggered according to the scheme: whole slab from below - trimmed from above - vice versa. This way you can achieve the reliability of the entire structure.

Processing seams: drywall, working on the nuances

When installation is completed, process the joints of the sheets and fill the recesses from the fasteners. A gypsum mixture is usually used to process joints; when it dries, it forms a durable material. Beveled edges must be primed.

Next, stick the reinforcing mesh onto all joints with the factory edge. If one or both edges of the sheet are chamfered, the mesh must be cut along the chamfer, preventing it from leaving the plane. The reinforcing mesh should always be in the middle of the putty.

Approximately 60% of the total volume of the recess is filled with the first layer of putty, then the mesh is immersed in the putty and smoothed. And then the remaining volume of the recess is filled. Don’t forget to fill the recess from the self-tapping screws with putty too. Don't worry if you see the putty retract a little after drying - this is normal. Well, you will finally process the recesses with finishing putty.

Drywall installation process (video)

Standard installation of drywall can be done using video tutorials, which show all the details of the process - from “acclimatizing” the drywall to installing the distribution box. Glue method They are used less frequently, but the frame method allows you to correct the problem of any curvature of surfaces, and the field of application of this method is much wider.

Happy renovation!

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity because it universal material, which can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a partition. However, depending on the installation location, installation methods will change, and various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings indoors.

There are several ways: on metal or wooden frame or glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Installation on walls using a frame method: necessary materials and tools

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when covering walls and ceilings, as well as when constructing a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the sheathing in all cases is assembled almost the same way.

On initial stage it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. To carry out the work you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• mounting knife;
• screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the sheathing);
• scissors or hacksaw for metal;
• drywall;
• profiles or slats;
• mounting hangers;
• pencil;
• level;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• square

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Preparing walls and marking the base

Important! Preparation of the base includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing if there is significant damage, and removing deformations.

The next stage is marking. It is necessary to make an indent from the wall to be closed to the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Next, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is noted where the rack profiles will be located. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets lie on the profiles and do not fall into the gap between them.

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Installation of the frame for gypsum boards

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they must be secured very carefully. The profiles are installed using dowels in increments of 40-60 cm. Next, guides are installed on the walls in a similar way.

Then to the wall along the line load-bearing profiles mounting plumbs are installed. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is advisable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and moved into place. They are attached to guides and plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears” left, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, begin installing the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be trimmed using a hacksaw or tin snips. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors.
The lathing from wooden blocks is assembled in the same way.

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Installing gypsum boards on walls

The last step is installation of drywall. However, before moving on to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of noise and heat insulation of the room. Mineral wool, foam sheets, and cork can be used as insulation. All these materials absorb sound well. Installation of communications, laying engineering systems is carried out before the walls are covered with gypsum board.
When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can begin installing the sheets. To do this you will need metal screws.

Important! The gypsum board is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed:

1. The sheets should be laid in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.
2. GCR can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.
3. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at right angles; deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the plasterboard by at least 1 mm. Tails – extend from the profile by at least 10 mm.
4. The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must be laid on the profile.
5. When attaching gypsum boards, it is necessary to make an indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with your own - at least 15 mm.

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Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation

This method has many more positive aspects; it is used more often:

• walls are leveled even with significant differences, holes or protrusions;
• all base flaws are masked;
• reliable fastening of drywall;
• no need for careful preparation base, its leveling, etc.;
• opportunity additional insulation and soundproofing the room;
• absence of “wet” operations;
• can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages:

• reducing the area of ​​the room;
• low maintainability;
• There is no solid wall behind the gypsum board.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, you can try simply gluing the material to the walls.

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Fastening drywall with glue

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met:

1. There is no need for additional heat or noise insulation of the room. Fasten the gypsum boards properly to mineral wool or other material is impossible: after a while it will fall off.
2. Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, since the glue in the depressions simply will not reach the wall.
3. The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. Standard size panels are 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but these are not available everywhere. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. This is difficult to do smoothly and at the same time efficiently.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use the frame fastening method. You cannot glue plasterboard to the ceiling: in this case, lathing must be used. One of the special advantages of this type of installation is the space saving. It is very convenient in small spaces.