Plastic ceiling in the bathroom – practical solution decoration of this room. It allows you not only to create an atmosphere of cleanliness and comfort, but also to make the bathroom truly modern and respectable. All these benefits can be obtained for relatively little money.

Plastic is a fairly durable and moisture-resistant material. These two parameters determine all its main advantages. A bathroom is a room in which the air humidity level is periodically increased. Therefore, the main requirement for finishing material is resistance to moisture. Plastic responds to this in full.

In the bathroom, strong impacts on the ceiling are unlikely, so there is no need to install high-strength cladding elements. Plastic will successfully cope with mechanical stress household level, expressed in accidental blows with a hand or any object.

Another advantage of such a ceiling is its simplicity and ease of maintenance. Glossy surface When exposed to steam, plastic fogs up and becomes moist, so rising small particles of perfume or cosmetics, cleaning products, dust and dirt can settle on it. To get rid of stains, just wipe plastic ceiling dry or damp cloth.

These designs are also good because they can be quickly and easily installed. The light weight of the plastic makes it easy to work with; its flexibility for processing does not require powerful and expensive tools.

What to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom from

There are several options for installing a plastic ceiling in the bathroom. The following materials can be used for this purpose:

• PVC panels;
• plastic lining;
• plastic slats.

In order to choose the most suitable material for a particular case, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the features, pros and cons of each.

Features of the material	PVC panels	Plastic lining	Plastic slats
Color palette	All shades of primary colors, a wide range of drawings	Mostly imitation natural wood and solid colors	Plain
Surface type	Flat, matte, glossy	Flat and embossed, matte and glossy	Flat, glossy
Panel connection type	Tenon and groove	Tenon and groove	Gap and gapless connection

All these materials require a frame, but each case has its own nuances of its installation and assembly. Step-by-step instructions for their installation will help you understand the features of plastic ceilings.

plastic lining for bathroom

How to make a bathroom ceiling from PVC panels

Materials:

• wooden blocks section 30x40 mm;
• self-tapping screws 50-55 mm long;
• plastic dowels 55-60 mm long;
• PVC starting profile;
• PVC panels;
• liquid Nails.

Tools:

• drills for wood and concrete with a diameter of 6 mm;
• drill;
• roulette;
• level;
• construction stapler;
• 6 mm hardened steel staples;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• cutting disc for metal 1.5-2 mm thick;
• a crown for drilling round holes (the diameter must correspond to the diameter of the recessed lamp).

The use of a metal profile for constructing a frame is irrational for the reason that it is not resistant to moisture. Therefore, corrosion may appear in areas of scratches and dents. Wooden blocks are able to absorb moisture, but are a “breathable material”, so excess water evaporates. In order to protect the wood, it must be coated with a special impregnation that increases the degree of moisture resistance of this material.

If you plan to install recessed luminaires, the distance from the base surface should exceed the height of the luminaire body by 2-3 cm.

Stages of work

Step 1. Marking the level of the suspended plastic ceiling.

At this stage of work, it is necessary to carry out even horizontal lines, departing the distance required for installing lamps from the base ceiling.

An important point: if the bathroom walls are finished tiles, there is no need to mark the level of the suspended ceiling. It is necessary to focus on the line of the top edge of the tile. Otherwise, visual defects such as misalignment of the ceiling or gaps in the plaster between it and the tiles are possible.

Step 2. Preparing wooden blocks for installation on walls.

• treat the bars with a moisture-repellent composition (Holzprotektor impregnation, Neomid primer, Pinotex Ultra Antiseptic antiseptic, etc.);
• Allow time for the composition to dry according to its manufacturer’s instructions;
• drill holes in the bars with a diameter of 6 mm in increments of 40-50 cm.

Step 3. Forming holes in the bathroom walls.

Wooden blocks are applied to the walls and holes are drilled for dowels. The most convenient way to do this is with a hammer drill and a drill with a diameter of 6 mm.

If the ceiling level line runs along the tiles, holes are drilled in the joints between the tiles. They do it like this:

• install a drill, in the middle of which there is a sharp cone-shaped tip;
• drill to the thickness of the tile;
• change the drill to one that matches the wall material (most often it is a drill with a pobedit tip).

Step 4: Installing dowels.

Using light blows of a hammer, drive the dowels through the wooden blocks.

Step 5. Installation of wooden blocks.

Screw self-tapping screws into the dowels, thereby fixing the bars to the bathroom walls.

Step 6. Installation of longitudinal beams.

To construct the frame, it is necessary to install crossbars located along the long walls of the room. Depending on the width of the bathroom, you will need from 2 bars. The crossbars are installed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Their ends are laid directly on the wall bars.

Step 7. Installation of transverse auxiliary bars.

On the walls opposite the longitudinal beams, pieces of bars 20-25 cm long are attached. They should be located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. These bars with one end must rest on the wall guides.

Step 8. Installation of cross beams.

Bars of a similar cross-section are attached to the auxiliary bars from below. They form the transverse beams of the frame. If the room area is large, the intersections of the frame beams are reinforced with metal corners.

Wooden sheathing - photo

Step 9. Installation of the starting profile.

Using a stapler and steel staples, the starting profile is attached to the wall guides so that the long shelf of the profile is adjacent directly to the bars. Three walls are covered in this way. The fourth should remain without a profile. And this should be one of the walls towards which the PVC panels will be installed. This precaution is due to the fact that the last (fourth) starting profile will be attached together with the last panel. This will ensure a neat appearance plastic ceiling.

Step 10: Trimming the first panel.

Before installing the first panel, its narrow front locking strip is cut off from it. This process can be done in two ways:

• using a grinder and a cutting disc (in order for the cut to be neat, you do not need to press the tool against the panel while working);
• using a sharp knife-cutter (experience in slicing is desirable plastic panels in this manner).

Step 11. Cutting plastic panels.

Procedure:

• using a tape measure, measure the distance from wall to wall (in the direction of installation of the panels);
• measure a similar distance on the PVC panel;
• make a mark with a pencil;
• measure 1 cm so that the panel becomes shorter;
• Using a metal or wooden square, draw a line perpendicular to long sides panels;
• use a grinder with a circle to cut the panel along the drawn line;
• All panels are cut in the same way.

Step 12: Installing the first panel.

The panel is inserted into the starting profile so that part of it completely fits into the recess of the bar. If the panel is long, it must be supported to prevent sagging. If this is necessary, it is recommended to invite an assistant.

Step 13. Attaching the first panel.

The first PVC panel is attached to the frame at the points where it intersects with the wooden blocks. This task is performed using a battery-powered screwdriver and wood screws 2-2.5 cm long.

It is not recommended to use staplers and staples to secure panels. The reason is that the panel is relatively hollow material with rather soft stiffening ribs. Therefore, when fastening with a stapler, dents may remain on it and cracks may appear.

Step 13. Drilling holes for lamps.

Procedure:

• after installing several panels, holes are drilled in the right places for the lamps, which are prepared in advance by connecting wires to them;
• if 4 lighting points should be located along one panel, then step back 20-45 cm from the perpendicularly located walls and install the first two lamps;
• then the distance between these two points is divided by 3 and the corresponding marks are placed on the panels;
• drill round holes in these places;
• install two more lamps;
• the wires are routed behind the panels and on top of them.

If it is not possible to use a crown, holes can be cut using a screwdriver and a thin drill. In this case, place the lamp on the panel and draw it. Turn on the tool, insert the drill into inner part circle, drive the drill along the pencil line. This produces a cut with relatively uneven edges. But don't worry: they will be covered by the decorative lower part of the lamp.

Step 14. Connecting recessed luminaires to electrical wiring(performed at the final stage of the panel set).

Step 15. Installation of the last panel.

• if the width of the panel exceeds the width of the gap between the plastic ceiling and the wall, cut off the excess part;
• a starting profile is inserted along the cut edge;
• apply liquid nails to the wooden frame;
• install the cut panel, pushing its side free from the starting profile into the panel already installed on the ceiling;
• press the panel against the block and hold it in this position for 10-15 seconds.

Plastic ceiling in the form of a blue sky with clouds

How to make a ceiling in a bathroom from plastic lining

Ceiling installation from plastic lining is in many ways similar to assembling a ceiling from PVC panels. But since lining is considered a heavier material, a metal frame is installed instead of wood.

In this regard, the corresponding requirements for the set of tools: it must contain metal scissors for trimming metal profiles. PN 28/27 guides are used as a wall profile, and PP 60/27 ceiling profile is used for the base of the frame. The frame strips are attached to the base ceiling using hangers - thin metal plates with perforations along the edges.

Correct cutting of metal profiles:

• measure the distance from wall to wall;
• measure this distance on the profile;
• make a mark with a pencil;
• Use metal scissors to cut the side flanges of the profile one by one;
• bend the profile at the incision site;
• cut along the formed fold line.

After cutting the planks, do the following:

• beat off the ceiling level;
• put marks in the places where the profile wall strips are attached (in increments of 50-60 cm);
• drill holes in the profile and walls;
• install dowels;
• attach the profile;
• The frame is assembled (longitudinal and transverse planks are installed).

Start installing the hangers:

• mark the fixation points of the suspensions on the ceiling (they should be located along the lines of the frame planks);
• drill holes in the ceiling;

False ceiling in the bathroom

Installation slatted ceiling– fast and effective way bathroom decoration. Most manufacturers of this finishing material offer ready-made kits for standard-sized rooms. For example, 1.7x1.7 m and 1.35x0.9 m. If the bathroom has other dimensions, they will need to be reported to the seller point of sale, who will select the optimal configuration of the slatted ceiling.

But the first thing you need to do is decide on the appearance of the finish. The fact is that manufacturers offer two types of slatted ceilings: closed (slotless) and open (slotted) type. Thanks to the “telling” names of these ceiling installation options, it is easy to understand that in the first case the canvas will be solid, in the second - with gaps between the panels.

One more nuance: you need to choose the design of the panels. The most popular are French and German. They differ in the profile of the panels. In French it is round, in German it is strictly rectangular. Therefore, when choosing French design and a closed installation method, small depressions will be noticeable on the ceiling. Due to the play of light and shadow, they will give it a special appeal. If you need strict and laconic design, you need to choose German.

The frame of the slatted ceiling is mounted not from wooden blocks and metal profiles, but using the following components:

• U-shaped profile (for wall guides);
• stringers (for longitudinal and transverse strips).

Installation of a slatted ceiling is carried out by alternately going through all the stages listed in the instructions for installing a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels. The slats are assembled not in the same way as in the case of PVC panels and lining (by the tongue-and-groove method of fixation), but by snapping them into special recesses in the frame strips (stringers). The panels are joined along the length using an H-shaped profile.

Slatted ceiling - photo

Video - Installation of a ceiling in a bathroom made of plastic lining (PVC panels)

When renovating a bathroom, you need to be very careful about the selection of finishing materials. It is important that they are moisture resistant and do not promote the growth of mold. One of the most practical, durable and inexpensive options finishing are plastic ceiling panels for the bathroom. The panels themselves are inexpensive, and due to the fact that installation can be done independently, repairing the ceiling in the bathroom will not greatly affect the family budget.

Ceiling panels for the bathroom are a material that is absolutely not afraid of moisture. Even if water comes into direct contact with it, the appearance of the coating will not be affected at all.

The panels are mounted on a pre-assembled frame, that is, the ceiling is suspended. This solution is beneficial from a practical point of view (there is no need to level the ceiling slab, you can use built-in lamps, etc.). In addition, suspended ceilings look very stylish and modern.

Options for finishing the ceiling with plastic panels

Due to the fact that today panels are produced in a wide variety of colors and textures, the ceiling finish can be very different.

When choosing ceiling panels for the bathroom, it is worth considering that the panels may have various sizes, and also differ in design. Let's figure out what types of panels can be mounted on bathroom ceilings.

Color and pattern

You may prefer simple white or tinted panels, or choose the option of installing material that imitates a natural stone or skin. Wood-look plastic panels are popular, as are products with designs that imitate mosaics or tiles. Patterned panels can be created in the following ways:

• Thermal transfer printing. The designs are transferred to plastic using thermal transfer film, and the element is additionally coated with a protective varnish. The drawing can be anything from abstract patterns to artistic portraits or landscapes.

• Offset printing. The image is transferred to plastic using a special printer. Most often, in this way, designs are created that imitate the surface of natural materials.
• Lamination. This method of applying a pattern is also used to produce laminate. The image is printed on paper, after which it is placed on a plastic panel and laminated, covering the product with a polymer film.

Advice! Large panels and patterns on plastic panels for the ceiling in the bathroom look impressive, but this decor option should only be used in a large bathroom; if the room is small, then you should give preference to patterns with small elements.

Ceilings finished in the bathroom look great mirror panels PVC. Installing PVC panels provides greater safety than traditional mirror glass coverings, since, unlike the latter, the panels are impact resistant.

But at the same time, they look great, visually increase the size of the room and do not contribute to the accumulation of condensation. In addition, installing a panel ceiling in a bathroom is much easier than installing mirror tiles.

Lovers of everything unusual can install a PVC ceiling in the bathroom with a holographic coating or with a 3D effect, which are often used to decorate clubs and bars. Such panels transform the space of a room; they can cover both the ceiling and walls. However, panels with a 3D effect look good in spacious bathroom. In a small bathroom standard apartment It's better to use regular ones.

In addition to the color combination, when installing a ceiling in a bathroom made of PVC panels, you can “play” with the direction of laying the panels. For example, they can be laid diagonally across the room or laid out in a herringbone pattern.

Advice! When choosing an unusual direction for laying the panels, you should take into account that the consumption of panels for the bathroom ceiling will increase significantly (there will be a lot of waste), and the installation of such a covering is quite complicated, so only experienced craftsmen. That is, when choosing this option for a panel ceiling design, repair costs will increase significantly.

Connection method

Based on the method of connecting the lamellas, the following plastic panels for the bathroom can be distinguished:

• Seamless. With proper installation of such lamellas, a ceiling finished with plastic looks even and smooth. But the appearance of the coating is affected not only by the correctness of the work, but also by the quality of the lamellas themselves. The presence of even small deformations will lead to the appearance of uneven and unsightly seams on the coating.

• Suture. When these slats are connected between the individual elements, an even seam is formed, which is a design element.
• With chamfer. This option is intermediate, since the connection method is similar to the seamless one, and the presence of a chamfer on the elements creates a characteristic relief on the ceiling.

Shape and size

To decorate the ceiling with plastic panels, lamellas are most often used rectangular shape. These elements have the following dimensions:

• length from 2.6 to 3 meters;
• width from 15 to 50 cm;
• thickness 8-12 mm.

Square-shaped ceiling panels in the form of tiles are less commonly used; their sizes can be different; the side length of one element varies from 30 cm to 98 meters. If it is necessary to make the ceiling completely seamless, then we install sheet panels.

They are being implemented large sheets, so one sheet can be installed in the bathroom of a typical apartment. The thickness of such sheets can be from 3 to 6 mm; greater thicknesses of material are not used, since one mounting element (sheet) would be too heavy and difficult to work with.

How to install a ceiling from panels?

Let's look at how to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands, without the help of professional installers.

Preparatory activities

Before you begin installing a plastic ceiling in the bathroom, you need to carry out preparatory work:

• If there is an old coating on the ceiling in the bathroom, it must be removed.
• There is no need to level the crushed slab, but if there are layers of crumbling plaster on it, they should be removed.
• It is recommended to treat the cleaned ceiling slab with primer deep penetration, which has an antifungal effect. The primer is applied with a roller in two layers.

Marking

• It is necessary to outline the line on which it will be located new ceiling made of plastic. The amount of indentation from ceiling slab depends on how the ceiling space will be used. If you don’t plan to install anything there, then you can step back by 4-5 cm. When installing lamps and laying communications under PVC panels on the ceiling in the bathroom, you should make an indent of such a size that you can arrange everything you need without any problems.

Advice! If built-in lamps with a height of 9 cm are installed in the bathroom ceiling made of plastic panels, then the minimum distance from the ceiling slab should be 10 cm.

• The level line of the new ceiling should be transferred to all walls using a building level.

Frame construction

• A UD profile measuring 2.5 by 2.5 cm is attached to the walls along the intended line. Dowels are used for fastening.
• Now you need to take the ceiling profile, insert it into the guide and secure it with self-tapping screws and press washers.

Advice! There is no need to pre-drill holes in ceiling profile. If you tighten the screw using a screwdriver, the screw will fit perfectly into the metal and the fastening will be reliable.

• Ceiling profiles should be attached to the ceiling using hangers. While performing this work, you must constantly ensure that the horizontal level of the ceiling is ideal.
• After assembling the frame, you can begin construction hidden wiring, pipe laying. It is more convenient to install built-in lamps in parallel with the installation of panels. The lamps are installed in accordance with a pre-developed diagram, holes for them are cut in the panels using a special attachment for a drill - a crown.

Installation of panels

Once the frame is assembled, finishing the ceiling in the bathroom can begin. Let's figure out how to make a bathroom ceiling using plastic panels:

• Screwed onto the guide profile plastic skirting board for installing panels. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the mounting strip. When joining in corners, the plinth is sawn at an angle of 45 degrees.

Advice! In a small bathroom you can do without installing a guide profile. You can simply stick the baseboard onto the walls around the perimeter of the room using a liquid nails-type adhesive. And install the ceiling plinth on hangers so that its ends extend beyond top part glued plinth.

The first panel is inserted with a shelf into the groove of the plinth and secured to the ceiling profile using self-tapping screws with press washers.

• Subsequent panels are mounted according to the same principle, only their shelves are inserted not into the baseboard, but into the groove of the previous panel.
• To form a seamless ceiling, the panels need to be pressed against each other as tightly as possible.
• It happens quite often that the last panel does not fit into the remaining space. It should be cut to width, making it 5-6 mm narrower than the installation site. First, the finishing panel is inserted all the way into the groove of the plinth, and then moved towards the penultimate panel so that it is pressed tightly against it.

So, it is quite possible to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom with PVC panels yourself. This is not a difficult job, but requires care and precision. It is especially important to correctly mark and assemble the frame, since this determines how even the assembled ceiling will be.

Plastic panels are used as a ceiling in the bathroom, in the “economy” version. Polyvinyl chloride is used as a decorative element mounted on a supporting structure suspended ceiling.

PVC panels as decor

Modern industry can present millions of options for bathroom ceilings made of plastic panels that are not afraid of humidity and fairly high temperatures.

The panels are environmentally friendly and do not cause allergies.

Chemically resistant to alkalis and easy to clean with modern detergents.

Glossy, light-colored PVC panels perfectly reflect light and allow you to visually expand the boundaries of the room.

By technical performance and method of installation, panels are divided into:

• Seamless
• Seamless, imitating wooden lining
• PVC boards
• Rack and pinion

The seamless option involves connecting panels end-to-end, with minimal visualization of the connecting seam. If you manage to position the connection along the direction of sunlight or the main light in the room, then the seams are practically invisible. Intense decorative patterns on the panels will camouflage them even more.

Various color shades panels can be obtained at the production stage by adding dyes directly to polyvinyl chloride. But in truth, drawings not limited by imagination can be applied to PVC panels using laminated film.

A seamless ceiling in a bathroom made of plastic panels is the most common option.

Imitation wooden lining represents the lowest price category of PVC panels and, as a rule, is represented by a limited choice of colors.

PVC boards and the slatted version are currently rapidly gaining popularity due to the possibility of a new and inexpensive design.

Dimensions

In addition to design differences and applied patterns, PVC panels have the most important differences for installation - dimensions.

Panels may vary in:

• length
• width
• panel thickness
• thickness of the polyvinyl chloride layer
• number of internal stiffeners

Often it is these dimensional differences that determine the final choice of panel.

Panel length

The length of the panel can be:

• 5.80 m
• 3.50 m
• 3.00 m
• 2.70 m

Choice correct length Bathroom panels are determined primarily by waste minimization. Suppose the width of the bathroom is 1.50 m and its length is 3.20 m. It turns out that we will choose either a panel length of 3.00 m or its length of 3.50 m.

A three-meter panel, divided in half, is ideally equal to the width of the bathroom - 1.50 m and it is possible to extend the ceiling to the width of the room. In this case, there will be minimal waste. In the second option, we separate 0.30 meters from a 3.50 meter panel and can add length to the ceiling. The number of seam lines will be less, but there will be much more waste: 0.30 m * 1.50 m = 0.45 sq. meters.

You will have to make a choice in favor of design or saving money.

Panel width

The width of PVC panels is usually a multiple of 5 cm, starting from 0.10 m. The most common panel widths for ease of ceiling installation are:

• 0.15 m
• 0.20 m
• 0.25 m

Wider panels can also serve as bathroom ceiling decor, but are not recommended due to the complexity of installation and linear expansion of PVC panels at high temperatures in the bathroom.

Panel thickness

The thickness of the panels also varies: 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm and 15 mm. In principle, thinner ones are intended for the ceiling, as they allow saving money, but in practice, all panel thickness options are used for the ceiling if the choice has already been made in favor of its length, width and pattern.

The number of stiffeners and the thickness of the polyvinyl chloride layer in practice when choosing a panel are subjective. It is possible to determine much more accurately only manually. In other words, try to apply slight force with your fingers to the edge of the panel. The layer should be brittle or too soft.

PVC ceiling panels

Sequence of ceiling installation in the bathroom

The peculiarity of a ceiling made of PVC panels is that it can be mounted as a final element in the bathroom, or as a starting element. If the walls in the bathroom are expected to be tiled ceramic tiles, painted, finished decorative plaster, then the panels are mounted on the ceiling last.

The panels are finalization ceiling and if you install them first, and then start cement and plastering work, then solutions or paint will inevitably fall on the polished surfaces of the panels. The process of cleaning panels from cement, sand and paint will inevitably lead to damage to the surface layer of the panels.

In the case of decorating the bathroom walls with PVC panels, the ceiling is mounted from the panels first. The reason is purely practical - so as not to damage the wall panels when installing the ceiling.

Installation of suspended ceiling with PVC panels

Professional builders know how to properly and quickly make a suspended ceiling in a bathroom from plastic panels. Moreover, the process is so simple that knowing its installation rules, it is easy to implement it yourself. Moreover, saving money has never bothered anyone.

A careful selection of panels has been made, and we proceed directly to the installation of the ceiling, which is divided into two main stages:

1. Installation load-bearing structure suspended ceiling.
2. Installation of panels.

Installation of supporting structure

The supporting structure can be assembled using wooden slats or galvanized metal profiles. Since the bathroom is a room with high humidity and temperature, it is preferable to opt for galvanized CD and UD profiles, which can be cut with a hacksaw or a grinder with a metal circle.

Before installing the supporting structure, it is necessary to finally determine the location of the lighting and ventilation elements on the ceiling. Supporting structures must not interfere with their safe operation.

Let's start the assembly:

1. We clean the ceiling surface from peeling plaster and paint. If the seams between concrete slabs floors, we re-plaster them.
2. We prime the surface of the ceiling and walls, which will be covered behind the load-bearing surface, with antifungal and antibacterial solutions.
3. We mark the future suspended ceiling:

• To do this, it is necessary to take into account the height of the lighting elements; they must have a gap with the ceiling of at least 1 cm.
• If the ceiling is not level, then the countdown is from the point with the minimum height.
• For correct marking, you must use either a water level or a laser level.
• We mark the markings with one solid line around the perimeter of the entire room.

We measure and attach the UD profile with the middle strip to the wall along the marking line, which should run along the lower level of the profile. For fastening, dowels with galvanized screws 25–35 mm long are used every 25–40 cm. It is mandatory to fasten the profile at a distance of 5 cm from each corner of the room.

The CD profile is the main load-bearing element of the structure:

• Its location should be perpendicular to the direction of the PVC panels.
• It is attached with a wide strip downwards every 60 cm on the UD profile with galvanized self-tapping screws (“fleas”).
• The profiles closest to the walls are located at a distance of 5–10 cm from the wall.
• U-shaped brackets are fixed to the side walls of the CD profile, at intervals of 60 cm, using self-tapping screws.
• The brackets are attached to the ceiling using dowels and galvanized screws 50 mm long.
• When installing U-shaped brackets, constant monitoring of compliance is required horizontal level Profile CD.

At this point, the assembly of the supporting structure can be considered complete.

These installation instructions will help, if you decide to make a bathroom ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, to accurately calculate the required total length of galvanized profiles, brackets, screws and dowels in a particular bathroom.

Basic structure

Installation of PVC panels

When installing the panel, it is necessary to take into account that it is the final decoration of the ceiling and requires careful handling. For a neat appearance of the panel cut area, we recommend using a hacksaw. Professionals also use a small grinder with a metal circle.

The place where the panels will be adjusted to fit right size, must be cleared of objects that could unintentionally damage the front side of the PVC panel. Even the smallest dent on the panel greatly spoils general form ceiling.

The procedure for installing PVC panels on a supporting structure:

1. From the side where the ceiling installation begins, we fasten it with self-tapping screws starting bar to CD profile
2. We make a preliminary measurement of the location of the panels with technological holes for ventilation and lighting. If the holes cannot reach the middle of the panel, we adjust this by reducing the width of the first panel.
3. We cut all the panels to a length that will be 1 cm shorter than the length of the room. The gap is needed for safe linear expansion of polyvinyl chloride as the temperature in the bathroom increases.
4. We make technological holes in the panels for lighting and ventilation. To do this, it is better to use a drill with a core drill bit. required diameter or a simple sharp knife. When working with a knife, you must be careful.
5. Installing the first panel into the starting bar front side down, level it and fasten it with self-tapping screws using the technological flat protrusion to the CD profile. For large spans, it is advisable to fasten the panel using clamps. They do not interfere with the linear expansion of PVC.
6. We insert the next panel into the groove of the first one, joint to joint and fasten it in the same way as the first one, with self-tapping screws to the profile. The width of the seam should be minimal and the same along the entire length. We make sure that there is a gap on both sides between the panel and the wall.
7. During the installation process, we do not forget about lighting and ventilation and install panels with technological holes in a timely manner.
8. We fasten the last panel either with glue or with self-tapping screws along its extreme edge.
9. We close the technological gaps between the mounted PVC panels and the walls decorative skirting boards, which we cut at 45 degrees in the corners of the room.
10. We install lighting elements and decorative grilles air ventilation subceiling space.

The ceiling in the bathtub made of PVC panels is easy to install, practical to use and looks very harmonious in the bathroom.

Until recently, we could not even imagine that repairs could be so fast; now they can be completed in one day. Modern Construction Materials, which allow you to do the finishing yourself very quickly, without the services of hired workers. Recently we already talked about, and today we will tell and show how to do suspended ceiling from plastic panels.

Plastic panels are often used for ceiling cladding in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, loggia or balcony. What is the reason for such popularity, what advantages and disadvantages they have and how to install them correctly, we will now tell you.

Plastic suspended ceilings are a metal or wooden frame covered with polyvinyl chloride panels. The panels themselves, as they are more often called, have different sizes, but the most popular ones are 2.7 and 3 meters long and 25 centimeters wide. Inside, the panels are hollow with stiffening ribs, so they are very light and very durable, and on the side edges they have locks for joining, almost like those.

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels, you need to purchase all the components: profiles or bars for the frame, and special ceiling PVC cornices. If you come to the store for them for the first time, then wide choose PVC profiles may confuse you. Let's look at their main types and purposes.

Types of plastic profiles for ceilings

1. The starting profile is the most used. With its help, you can hide the ends of the panels; to do this, secure them around the perimeter of the room along the line of the new ceiling.
2. External and internal plastic corner needed for beautiful joining in corners.
3. An H-profile will be needed if you do not have enough length for one panel - it will connect their ends.
4. A plastic ceiling plinth is needed to hide the ends of the panels. In essence, this is a starting profile, but with a decorative border.
5. The F-profile is needed to hide the ends. It can be useful if you decide to decorate adjacent walls with different materials.
6. A universal plastic corner is a regular corner in the shape of the letter “L”. They can hide any joints.

Advantages and disadvantages

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels has many advantages.

• You can level out any unevenness without removing the old coating.
• You can hide wires, ventilation and other communications in the frame.
• It is easy to install built-in lamps and lighting.
• Very easy installation process, design much simpler than .
• You can install additional insulation from noise, moisture, and sound into the frame.
• Installation is carried out using the dry method using dowels and self-tapping screws. This means you don't need any special skills to do it.
• Moisture-resistant and washable material that is not susceptible to microorganisms.
• If necessary, the panels can be re-installed.

Suspended plastic ceilings also have their disadvantages.

• Most of these ceilings look budget-friendly, but they also come in beautiful colors.
• Having bought cheap thin types of panels, you may regret it after installation: some of them allow light from built-in lamps to pass through. You need to buy more expensive lamps, in which the inner walls are not transparent.
• Can't do multi-level design or bend.
• You will lose some of the height of the room.
• The seams between the panels are visible.

Preparatory work

We will tell you how to make a plastic ceiling, using the example of a finished bathroom. It has already been done on its walls, which will complicate the installation process.


In our case, the tiles are specially laid almost to the ceiling, at a distance of about 15 centimeters. There are 2 ways: mount the frame directly on the tile or above it. If you fix the lathing over the tiles, part of the edge will be hidden, which complicates installation on narrow corner. But if you attach profiles to finished tiles, there is a high probability of damaging it. Therefore we choose the first option.

Advice! To secure the profiles flush with the tiles, level the surface above it using gypsum plaster, for example, Knauf Rotband. But be sure to apply masking tape to the tiles and seams.

Frame installation

Attach dowel guide nails around the perimeter of the wall. In wet rooms it is better to use galvanized profiles than wooden blocks. Mount after marking using a water or laser level.

Then you need to secure the hangers that will support the frame from sagging. One dowel for the suspension will be enough.

Advice! Before drilling, be sure to check the walls and ceiling for hidden wiring. Very often, wires in the wall run along the ceiling and there are junction boxes. In the best case, getting a drill into the wiring threatens you with broken plugs and forced repairs, and in the worst case, the hammer drill will malfunction and give you an electric shock. To search for wires in the wall, you can use special detector devices or invite an electrician.

Plastic ceilings can be lowered to almost any height, but the minimum offset is limited by the thickness of the sheathing and lamps. If the length of standard hangers is not enough, use anchor hangers with clamps, which are shown in the photo.

Hangers for suspended ceilings

The hangers should be located on the same line in approximately 60 centimeter increments, and the profiles themselves should be located at a distance of about 50 centimeters. Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling does not require transverse profiles, unlike, since they have a different shape and are screwed only from one edge. But if you want to hang a chandelier, you will still have to strengthen the frame in this place by adding a couple of jumpers.

The finished frame should look something like the photo:

Now you can screw on a plastic starting profile or a ceiling profile if you want to get a border. Secure it around the perimeter of the room with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-50 centimeters.

Joining the curb on the ceiling

Advice! To beautifully join the corners of the plinth, cut them at an angle of 45 degrees with a hacksaw on a miter box. If you don’t have a miter box, you can simply stack the starting plastic strips on top of each other in the corners, and after fastening, cut them diagonally with a knife.

Panel installation process

Now we have come to the final stage - installation of plastic panels on the ceiling. They are fastened across the profiles. Before required length they can be cut with almost anything: a fine-toothed hacksaw, a jigsaw, a sharp knife. Trim the panels 5 millimeters smaller than the width of the room. It is best to sand the edges so that everything looks perfect. Don't forget to remove the film from them and try not to wrinkle them: the panels are very easy to press through.

• • First, insert the side edge of the panel into the starting profile, then bend it a little and insert the opposite one. Then slide the panel close to the wall so that it is in the profile on three sides.

• • Secure the last 4th side of the panel to the frame with self-tapping screws with a wide head.
  • Subsequent panels are attached in the same way, but only one side, instead of a profile, will be held on the previous panel.

• So, the plastic ceiling is being installed up to the last panel. To secure it, cut it to the desired width.

Video on how to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands:

Advice! The last panel can be inserted in any way convenient for you, here is one of them: the length of the panel should be a couple of millimeters less than the distance from one wall to the beginning of the opposite starting profile. Insert one side directly into the corner of the wall, and the opposite side can be inserted without problems by moving it a little. To join the last panel, you can stick tape on it and slide it inside the groove. If any small gaps remain, they can be sealed with acrylic sealant.

There is another way: simply screw the panels to the frame, and after work, secure the border in the corners with liquid nails. In this case, there will be no problems installing the last panel.

As for the installation of built-in lamps, you can cut holes for them after installation, during the covering or even before it. It is most convenient to use a crown attachment on a drill, and if you don’t have one, then use drills and a knife. Of course, all the wires must already be in place before installation in order to connect the lamps later.

Now the finishing of the ceilings with plastic panels is finished - a photo of our work looks like this:

High humidity, changes temperature indicators- these are the factors that create a special microclimate in the bathroom. Therefore, finishing materials for decoration should be selected with special care. One of the most optimal options– the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels. This practical material, meeting user requirements, plus slats are sold in a large assortment color solutions. But we will tell you in detail how to lay out the finishing, what to buy for this and what features of the technology to observe.

A few rules will help you decide on the choice of material:

1. It is better to cover small rooms with small-piece products. The format slats will have to be cut; you won’t be able to save money. But you need to select the dies after the layout scheme has been selected - it’s easier to calculate required quantity material.
2. The plastic ceiling in the bathroom must maintain stability of shape, color, and texture. When choosing materials, pay attention to dyes; they must be durable. It’s a good idea to check for resistance to corrosion, rot, and mold. To do this, the panels must be treated with antiseptics during the production process; regular self-processing antiseptic compounds.

Color, shape, pattern – it’s all up to the taste of the buyers.

The following types of facing material are available on sale:

• rack – long single-color narrow stripes up to 100 mm wide;
• standard – tiles with or without frieze up to 370 mm wide;
• sheet (seamless) - patterned lamellas of large format, convenient to lay out, but sometimes require trimming.

The sheet ceiling is called seamless due to the tightness of the joints between the edges of the tiles. After laying out, you get a smooth, solid canvas on which the seams are not visible. And here slatted panels on the ceiling in the bathroom are considered the most convenient, even despite the installation time. Such dies are installed almost without trimming and help to visually adjust the size of the room. Regardless of the choice, all materials can be combined with each other, creating individual decorative solutions.

Technology for installing PVC ceilings in bathrooms and toilets

The ceiling in the toilet is installed from plastic panels using lathing and glue. The latter option is used only if the base is perfectly level and the ventilation system is working. The sheathing design is suitable in all cases, and is especially good when large differences height, necessity additional insulation, soundproofing the room.

For the manufacture of the frame of the lathing, a metal, plastic profile or wooden beam. But there are nuances:

• the metal profile must have anti-corrosion treatment;
• the wooden beam should be dried and soaked in antiseptics and antiprenes.

But plastic is best suited - it is a durable material that can withstand moisture and temperature fluctuations and is not a breeding ground for biological life forms.

Marking the room and calculating materials

Preliminary work begins with searching for the low angle in room. The height of the sheathing is set off from the ceiling in this corner, plus the thickness of the panel and the distance to the base lamp - make a mark. The same procedure is carried out in all corners. Then the marks are connected into a solid line, this will be the border of the profile installation.

Advice! If the walls of the room are tiled, there is no need to make markings. The upper edge of the tiles will serve as the boundary for installing the sheathing profile. If you make a different reference point, distortions may result and unnecessary gaps may form between the ceiling and the wall cladding.

The formula for calculating the amount of material is simple: divide the ceiling area (length times width) by the area of ​​one panel - the result is the desired number. Add 5% for trimming, defects during work, replacement of worn tiles, the purchase quantity is determined. A supply is required, even if a master is working. During use, the tiles may become unusable, and then it will be difficult to find a shade, but if you have spare tiles, restoration will be quick and easy.

Preparing the frame and protecting it from moisture in the bathroom

Now you need to select the material from which the sheathing frame will be formed. If it is a metal profile, it must have anti-corrosion factory protection, and the wood blocks must be treated with an antiseptic (it’s called “Antiseptic”), then primed with the composition deep impregnation, for example, Neomid, dry well and only then use it for arranging the frame. Drying wood takes at least 3-4 days, during which time you can have time to prepare materials and ceilings.

Some tips from the professionals:

• the sheathing frame on which the panels are mounted must be located perpendicular to the location of their layout;
• if built-in lighting fixtures are installed, the distance from the ceiling to the sheathing should be at least 100-120 mm;
• the boundary drawn on the walls is the level of installation of the panels, so the frame is arranged taking into account the height of the lamellas;
• To increase the moisture resistance of timber sheathing, it is better to fill the gap between the pieces of wood with a sealant (silicone-based), and throw a vapor barrier membrane on top.

The wooden sheathing is mounted from timber up to 200 mm in size with an installation step of 300-400 mm. Fasteners to concrete - dowels, check the horizontal installation using a laser level. A cord stretched around the perimeter of the room will make the task easier - it is easier to use it to check the evenness of the horizontal arrangement of the bars.

The metal profile is attached like this:

1. According to the markings, a profile of types L, UD is mounted. For transverse fastening, buy a CD profile.
2. The planks are attached with self-tapping screws; for concrete, with dowels. First, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the concrete, then attach the profile.
3. Installation of the UD profile around the entire perimeter requires precision; it must be laid out so that there are no gaps left. Then CD profiles are laid, and only then, on mounting elements A plastic L-profile is laid.

During work, you need to constantly check the horizontal evenness. Will come in handy laser level, he is more precise.

Important! Metal lathing is not installed in rooms without ventilation. This will lead to accelerated corrosion of the metal and collapse of the ceiling.

When installing a suspended ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands, you must not forget about the power cords for lighting fixtures. All communications are hidden in corrugated pipes; cables must be laid before installing the plastic sheathing.

Methods for attaching PVC panels to the ceiling

Now the most important thing: choose the layout of the panels and the method of fastening. You can mount it either with self-tapping screws or with glue. Self-tapping screws hold more firmly, the adhesive version does not damage the tiles. Picking up adhesive composition, pay attention to resistance to moisture and temperature changes. If the indicators change, the glue may become wet, which will lead to the collapse of the structure.

Another option is to staple the ceiling. The fastener is driven into the groove of the die, then overlapped with the next element. This way the hardware remains invisible, but the strength of the fasteners increases.

The layout can be along the room, across or diagonally. The longitudinal method is the simplest: lay tiles along the walls, gradually covering the perimeter and ending in the middle or at a short wall. But there is a small nuance: if you take lamellas 3 m long with a room width of up to 1.5 m, then you can divide each lamella in half and get by with almost no waste - minimal trimming is required. The elements should be laid out so that all cut edges lie towards the junction area with wall panel– it is then mounted in this place ceiling molding or profile, uneven edges will be covered.

When choosing a diagonal layout option, you will have to be patient and additional material for trimming. But on the other hand, you get an aesthetic ceiling from PVC panels in the bathroom, plus the shape and size of the room is visually adjusted.

Laying wiring

The work is carried out before the ceiling is sewn up. How to do:

• prepare sections of corrugated pipes and ducts according to the size of the wires;
• prepare wires of the required length, plus 15 cm for reserve;
• thread the wires into corrugated pipes, then place them in boxes;
• secure the boxes with clamps with hangers at the base of the ceiling;
• run the system in test mode and check operation.

If the space between the suspended ceiling and the base is small, you can abandon the boxes by hanging the wires in corrugated pipes.

Requirements for lighting fixtures in the bathroom

The TU regulations visually divide the entire room into zones, which are located from the floor to a wall height of 2.25 m:

1. Zone I is a wet area where humidity reaches 100%. This includes the bath itself, the shower cabin inside and out. Shown are devices with low-voltage parameters (12 V), IP 67 marking, and with a mandatory indicator of the possibility of constant presence in water.
2. Zone II is located above the bathtub bowl at a height of 2.25 m from the edge. In addition to water, this area is exposed to hot steam. Recommended characteristics of lamps: from 45IP, voltage 12-24 V.
3. Zone III is located 0.6 m to the right and left of the boundaries of zone II. There is rarely a jet of water here, but there is often hot steam and splashes. Therefore, lighting devices with a protection rating of 24IP are needed.
4. Zone IV is dry. Occupies the rest of the room. There are no restrictions on lighting fixtures, so the protection index in the first digit does not matter; in the second digit it is better to choose from 1. If the bathroom is large, then the dry zone starts from boundary III plus 3 m.

The main requirements for lamps: strength, practicality, durability. It is much more convenient to buy energy-saving (halogen or LED) lamps; they come in different options color and protection. In addition, the devices provide a fairly soft light that does not irritate the eyes, and well illuminate a room without windows.

Important! If there is a shower stall in the bathroom, the boundaries of the zones begin from the place where the shower hose is installed to the mixer.

Panel installation

We will step by step figure out how to lay lamellas on a frame made of wood or metal. To begin with, a wooden sheathing.

Here's the algorithm:

1. Attach a starting profile. This is a die that resembles a plinth with a recess on one side (along its entire length), where the first PVC panel is mounted. The side with the groove is attached to the sheathing using the selected fasteners.
2. Then the second panel. It should also fit into the groove, covering the fastening point.

Continue this way until the end of laying, but the finishing die is laid without fasteners at the groove point. After sheathing the ceiling, you need to install a ceiling molding that covers the gap between the profile and the wall.

Algorithm for working on metal lathing:

• cut the panel according to the measured value;
• insert the die into profile L;
• fasten with self-tapping screws;
• lay out the remaining elements, focusing on the fastening method: tongue-and-groove lock or by attaching them to self-tapping screws.

The last tile is cut and laid so that the cut side faces the wall. The gap is closed with a finishing corner, and then a ceiling plinth is also installed around the perimeter.

Ensuring ventilation of the space behind the ceiling

Multi-storey buildings are equipped with common ventilation shaft. It is adjacent to the kitchen, bathroom and toilet rooms. If the shaft is not clogged, it works normally, the device is enough forced ventilation, installed directly into the outlet socket from the shaft (a hole under the ceiling covered with a grate).

When choosing fans, you need to pay attention to the strength of the material, the accuracy of the diameter and dimensions (measure the opening of the shaft socket), resistance to water vapor, and temperature changes. In addition, the device must withstand aggressive influences. external environment, since various air suspensions are pumped through the ventilation shaft, including harmful fumes.

In store departments you can find fully equipped devices, which already include:

• 100 mm duct fan;
• 2 grates;
• flexible air duct 1 m long;
• and a connection timer for 5-30 minutes.

Installation will not be difficult: place one grille in a hanging ceiling structure, the second - into the socket of the shaft. The air duct is connected to the grille pipe, then to the fan. Then all the equipment needs to be secured, connected to power, and you can use it. The price of such a kit starts from $15.

There is another option where the air duct is brought to the level of installation of PVC panels. In this case, you need to measure the diagonal along the ceiling and install 2 ventilation grilles. This results in a natural process of ventilation of the ceiling space.

The third method is to locate the air duct according to the floor level. Here it is important to mount the ventilation grille on the opposite side of the exhaust pipe. The cross-section of the grille is equal to the cross-section of the air duct. Then install exhaust fan, to which the entire system joins. Functionality is ensured by vacuum, which is compensated by the exhaust flow from the room. Such ventilation is convenient even when the device is not working - air flows will still move, since constant draft is ensured in the general ventilation shaft.

How to properly dismantle PVC panels without damage

Having dealt with the installation, let's consider dismantling the suspended ceiling. Work is required when repairing or replacing damaged panels. It should be noted that when updating the panels, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire coating.

The general operating rules are as follows:

• turn off the power to the electrical wires;
• carefully remove the lighting fixtures and insulate the wires;
• remove the ceiling plinth covering the gap by picking up the decorative plate with a knife;
• start disassembling the ceiling from the last lamella, it is trimmed;
• insert a chisel between a pair of slats in the center, remove the panel from the latch, release the entire panel;
• move the die a little so that it extends to the end of the profile, and pull out the element from reverse side.

This way you can disassemble the entire finish, getting to the damaged element from the edge, or carry out complete dismantling of the ceiling. The work is carried out carefully, with the fasteners unscrewed, then the panels are pulled out from the end moldings. The fastening bars are removed as follows: loosen the spring, the element itself will jump out of the fastening, without being damaged or scratched. The frame can be removed without any problems: unscrew the fasteners and assemble all the elements.

If it turns out that the die in the middle of the ceiling has deteriorated, you will have to find the corner closest to the replacement area. Then, using the specified technology, disassemble the coating, then reassemble it in the same order, replacing the defective panel. There is an option for craftsmen: cut a new die from the reverse side, make two cuts 1 cm wide, bend it a little and insert it in place of the damaged element. Installation requires experience, used for flexible plastic, otherwise the lamella will simply break.