Grafting is the transfer of one part of a plant to another plant for further growth. The peculiarity of the combination is the ability to obtain a hybrid that would optimally combine resistance to weather conditions, excellent taste, and high yield. As a result of vaccination, the new organism has a powerful root system one plant and good varietal qualities of the second.

Advantages of this procedure.

1. Reducing waiting times. After planting, a young plant begins to bear fruit only after 5-6 years, and a grafted specimen - after 2-3 years.
2. Thanks to grafting, you can propagate your favorite or scarce variety without buying a seedling.
3. Makes it possible to quickly replace an unsuitable type with a new one with improved characteristics.
4. Save the variety if the plant is in danger of dying.
5. Several varieties can grow on one tree, which will significantly save garden space.
6. Allows you to grow standard-shaped currants.
7. Grafting helps to obtain a variety adapted to certain local conditions.

Dates

Graft trees better in spring, during active sap flow, without waiting for buds to open. It is difficult to determine a more precise date, middle lane In Russia, for example, the optimal moment is at the end of March. If everything is done on time, even beginners will not have any difficulties.

If the moment is missed, then you can try to get vaccinated in the summer.

However, you should not delay the summer grafting, because after the end of sap flow, the wood becomes fibrous, and the layers do not adhere tightly to each other. And in this process The main thing is that the scion grows well with the rootstock.

The appropriate time for vaccinations can be determined by the condition of the bark. If it comes off easily on a cut branch, it’s time to start; otherwise, you should wait a little.

Tools

Equipment for garden grafting can be compared in importance to a set of tools for surgical operations. The standard kit includes:

What to graft on and how to choose a scion

For currant grafting, both individual currant varieties and other fruit plants are chosen.

Golden currant

This scion has been tested by numerous experiments of gardeners, in particular tested by Michurin. Also suitable as a rootstock for different varieties currants, since it increases yields and gives crops resistance to adverse weather conditions. Compatibility with excellent.

Cherry

The crossing was tested by foreign gardeners, and the result met expectations. The rootstock was cherry, and the scion was currant. The fruits on the tree were large in size, but their taste was somewhat strange.

It is believed that cherries and currants are not the best combination.

Experiments were carried out on our territory, but with numerous rejections. Compatibility is average.

Rowan

If there is no suitable rootstock, then grafting is justified. However, grafted cuttings do not hold up well, and the overall survival rate is small. Compatibility is average.

Gooseberry

These two plants are of the same subspecies, therefore they are physiologically suitable. As a rule, gooseberry grafting is performed on currants, and not vice versa. Compatibility is good. Read about the hybrid of currants and gooseberries.

Preparation of cuttings

The scion will be responsible for growing the upper part of the bush or tree, as well as for the varietal characteristics. The quality and quantity of fruits depends on the cuttings, so you should choose only proven varieties. The scion is a piece of shoot 10-15 cm long with 2-3 buds.

Blank

• Select a healthy bud from a cutting. Cut it off along with a part of the bark with a diameter of 2 cm.
• A T-shaped cut is made on the previously selected rootstock.
• The valves open and the kidney is inserted into the hole. It should be visible from the outside.
• Above special material wrap the vaccination site.

Many gardeners with the aim of creating optimal conditions build a greenhouse around the graft.

Into the cleft

This method is the oldest and therefore imperfect. It is usually carried out in spring period. Used to restore old trees or broken thick branches. The disadvantage of this method is that when the tissue is split, it is severely damaged, the wounds heal slowly, and rotting processes can develop.

The grafting technology involves making a split on the cut of the rootstock, into which the cuttings are inserted. On the scion, an oblique cut is first made on both sides. The bark on the stump and on the cutting should match. The end of the cutting and the sides of the rootstock are lubricated with garden varnish. If the cutting is held tightly, then tying is not needed.

For the bark

The simplest method used for mature trees. Performed a month after bud break. The closer to this point the vaccination is made, the better the result.

Cloudy weather promotes optimal growth.

In the side cut

The method is most often used when vaccinations made using budding have not taken root. As a rule, it is performed during spring sap flow.

• The handle on the bottom side is shaped like a double-sided blade.
• The rootstock is shortened to a size of 15-20 cm.
• Using a copulating knife, a longitudinal cut is made, which should have one side 1.5-2 times shorter than the other.
• The end of the scion is adjusted to fit the scion.
• The cutting is inserted so that its bark and the bark of the rootstock coincide.
• The graft is tightly connected and coated with garden varnish.

Ablactation

Or grafting by rapprochement. In character it can be compared to self-grafting, the natural fusion of parts of a plant. The favorable period for the procedure is the beginning of March or August. The method involves merging branches without separating them from the mother plant. Used to restore missing branches and connect difficult-to-grow plants.

• The bark is removed from the branch or trunk selected for the rootstock. The exposed part is 4-5cm.
• It’s worth doing the same with the scion.
• For rapid fusion, it is important that there is a bud on the opposite side of the exposed area.
• The plants are combined with cuts and wrapped with elastic material.

It is necessary to ensure that the cut bark fits tightly to each other.

Step-by-step instructions for vaccination

Typically, cherries are grafted with a cutting or an eye. Both methods can be performed through a side cut, behind the bark, or into the butt. However, for gardeners who do not have much experience in grafting processes, it will be easier to use the split method. In this way, serious mistakes can be avoided. Read about planting currant seedlings in spring.

Caring for grafted currants

After grafting, the shrub certainly needs proper and timely care to prevent drying out of the soil surface and the appearance of a dry crust.

The plant should be fed no earlier than 14 days after grafting. For this purpose, nitrogen preparations are used. Then apply complex mineral fertilizers and and.

So that the grafted cuttings receive maximum amount nutrients, it is recommended to perform lateral growth and excess growth.

If special tying material was not used, the grafting site should be periodically inspected for rotting or fractures.

Newbie mistakes

• Wrong choice of timing for the procedure.

If the grafting procedure is performed ahead of time, the rootstock will not be able to fully nourish the cutting, as a result the graft will quickly dry out in the absence of nutrition. It is also inadvisable to do it later than the right moment, since delaying the deadline will lead to rejection of the grafted material.

• Incorrect vaccination technology.

The grafting itself is performed quickly and accurately, using sharp instruments. All open spaces, the cuts must be sealed with garden putty to prevent infection.

• Illiterate selection of rootstock.

If it is necessary to vaccinate, it is important to clarify the compatibility of plants. You should not perform the procedure thoughtlessly, getting carried away by the process.

Video

Video about red currant grafting.

conclusions

1. Vaccinations are performed on plants that are more than 2-3 years old.
2. For the crossing procedure, choose exclusively healthy scion and rootstock.
3. It is first necessary to study the compatibility of cultures to eliminate errors.
4. Vaccinations should be carried out during active sap flow.

He will tell you about grafting an apple tree in the spring for beginners.

There are gardeners who are convinced that grafting pears onto shadberry will not work. It grafts well and begins to bear fruit at 3-4 years. Good supports are needed not only because it can break at the grafting site, but because the harvest is such, you have to strengthen each branch. Otherwise, it will break off under the weight of the fruit. At the bottom is a shadberry and at the top is a pear. What vaccinations do you know that are considered unusual and incompatible?

One enchanted Siberian gardener wrote that he does not believe in grafting a pear onto chokeberry (chokeberry). Send at least one photo, he writes. I am sending. The branch with chokeberry fruits is circled in red.

Pear on the serviceberry, though still in the spring.

And an apple tree in the serviceberry.

Many people consider this grafting - apricot onto sloe - to be unusual and incompatible. And in the book “Apricot in Moscow and the Moscow Region” it is directly written that apricot cannot be grafted onto sloe. Apparently they have never tried it - why write then? This apricot grafted onto a sloe began to bear fruit in the second year.

Pear on quince.

We present real examples unusual vaccinations garden crops, which give one or another effect and which the gardener himself can do (table).

Unusual grafting of fruit and berry crops

Culture (scion)	Rootstock	Achieved effect
	Hawthorn, Japanese quince	Precociousness, reduction in tree height
	Red rowan	Increasing winter hardiness
	Irga, chokeberry	Early fruiting, ability to bend branches and protect from frost
	Cerapadus	Increased winter hardiness, reduced gum development
	Felt cherry	Reducing tree height
		Growing on “dry” soils
		Growing in “wet” soils
	Plum, felt cherry	Increasing winter hardiness
	Plum, sloe
Plum, peach	Felt cherry
Japonica	Red rowan, hawthorn
Grape	Actinidia	Protection of the root system from frost
Rowan nevezhinskaya	Red rowan	Sweetness
Red Ribes	Black currant
Chokeberry, Japanese quince	Red rowan	Obtaining plants in standard form
Gooseberry	Golden currant
"Male" sea buckthorn plants	"Female" sea buckthorn plants	For pollination, so as not to have separate "male" trees
"Female" sea buckthorn plants	"Male" sea buckthorn plants	For pollination, if “male” plants grow significantly better than “female” ones

With the help of vaccinations you can get unusual trees, for example, apple trees, which have a powerful and winter-hardy root system, but with weak growth aboveground part, which begins to bear fruit early. For this purpose it is necessary to land on permanent place any vigorous rootstock of an apple tree (seedlings of Antonovka, Grushovka Moscow or wild forest apple tree) or sow the seeds of these apple trees. Then, a clonal low-growing variety must be grafted into a one- or two-year-old rootstock using any method (by eye or cutting). It will serve as an intermediate (intercalary) insert between the vigorous rootstock and the cultivated variety.

Obtaining a seedling with an intercalary rootstock in three years: a) the first year - double budding; b) second year - proximity grafting; c) third year - removal of part of the cultivar and the top of the intercalary rootstock; 1 - bird cherry; 2 - cerapadus; 3 - cherry

The longer the intermediate insert (an insert of 15-20 cm in length is usually recommended), the greater the impact it has on the vigor, character and rate of metabolism between the rootstock and the solder. The following clonal rootstocks can be used as an intermediate insert: M8, M9, Budagovsky's paradise, No. 54-118, No. 62-396, Budagovsky's baby .

There are many ways to obtain trees with an intermediate insert - budding with two shields, double budding, double winter grafting and others. We present the method of I.F. Indenko, in which in the first year a vigorous rootstock is budded with two eyes on one side of the shoot: a scutellum of a cultivated variety is grafted underneath, and a scutellum of an intermediate insert (intercalary) is grafted above it. In the second year, shoots grown from grafted buds are grafted using the method of rapprochement (ablactation). In the third year, the apical part of the intercalary (above the place of last year’s grafting) must be removed, as well as that part of the shoot of the cultivated variety that is located between the rootstock and the place of ablation.

You can get a tree with an intermediate insert in one year. To do this, you need to budding the insert cuttings “in the butt” with a bud of a cultivated variety and graft this cutting onto the seed rootstock using the “improved copulation” method.

Based on such trees obtained by the methods described, the gardener can create a garden with 4 “story” components. The first floor is a vigorous seed rootstock, the second floor is an intermediate insert of a clonal low-growing variety, the third floor is a skeleton-forming winter-hardy variety and the fourth floor - a crown of shoots of the cultivated variety. Moreover, the last “floor” can be represented not by one variety, but by several (according to the timing of fruit ripening). Thus, the advantages of such trees in the garden are winter hardiness of the root system and crown, early fruiting and short stature.

"Four-story" tree

However, the use of low-growing rootstocks and inserts does not always ensure the desired growth rate of the fruit tree. Ideally, it is desirable that the tree grows quickly at the beginning and its volume occupies the allotted nutritional area (planting scheme), and then the vegetative and generative development of the plants should be balanced.

Unusual advice. To obtain such trees, V.I. Demenko has developed a method for creating plants with an insert that begins to work 3-4 years after planting. To do this, a seedling on a seed rootstock is grafted on both sides using the “bridge” method with cuttings of a weak-growing rootstock (insert); after 2-3 years, the bark is removed from the trunk, due to which the waste products of the tree are directed through the inserts, undergoing changes and affecting growth and fruiting fruit tree.

The effect of dwarfism or reduced growth vigor cannot be obtained through vaccinations different cultures, but by performing the “inverted ring” operation. For example, on a pear and plum, during active sap flow, you need to remove a ring of bark 13-15 mm wide from the branch and immediately put it in its original place, but upside down. That is, thanks to such an operation, the connection in the vessels of the cortex and the outflow nutrients delayed. Therefore, fruiting on a ringed branch increases, and progressive growth in height decreases. Unfortunately, the effect of such an operation is short-lived and therefore it must be repeated after 3-4 years.

Another surgical gardening operation can be performed to increase the winter hardiness of cherries. To do this, a 1 cm wide strip of bark is also removed from the branches and a strip of winter-hardy cherry bark of the same size is placed in its place.

Obtaining a low-growing tree on a vigorous rootstock

Author: In the articles that I previously read about the advantages of this method of growing parecs (red currants), it is clearly stated that the yield increases due to better illumination this type of bush i.e. into one trunk, you get a column of solid berries, simply beautiful!

In the photo it was done a little differently - in the form of a tree, which is also interesting, but I want to try in the form of a column so that the berries hang from below to a height of 1.5 m - 2 m. I will definitely do it. By the way, you can drive not just one stem, but intertwine several stems in the form of a braid, as a result, I think, it will be even more beautiful and there will be more berries. God himself ordered me to try to grow gooseberries this way, because these thorns are just tin, but it’s probably better to form gooseberries in the form of a tree. Like this:

Standard currant

In Europe, and in last years and in Russia, currants and gooseberries are increasingly grown not in bushes, but in standard form. And this, judging by the responses and some personal experience, provides significant advantages over traditional cultivation. They consist of making it easier to care for plants and harvest them, to enlarge and improve the quality of berries due to better illumination; In addition, berry plants acquire a unique decorative effect. Achieving such a reconstruction of a berry orchard is quite simple, and you don’t even have to resort to labor-intensive grafting.

Not only currants, but also gooseberries can be formed into a tree

Such a miracle - the tree looks very beautiful on the site near the house or along the paths when they are planted in the form of an alley.

Any variety of black, red and white currants can be grown as a tree.

Advantages of stamping bushes. The branches with berries will not touch the ground, which means they will hurt less.

The soil under the tree is easy to cultivate; you can even plant phytoncidal and pest-repellent plants (garlic, leaf celery, coriander, geranium, marigolds, marigolds, etc.), without leaving any room for weeds.

It will also be much more convenient to pick berries. It is easier to protect such a plant from pests that overwinter in the soil; you can put a hunting belt on the trunk.

Minuses. The plant will be tall and will not be completely covered with snow in winter, which is somewhat risky for some regions; during spring return frosts and strong cold winds, such currants will be less protected.

Another important thing: the currant tree will require constant timely care, pinching and cutting out branches.

And growing currants in the form of a tree begins like this.

1. In early August, you need to plant a thick bare summer shoot of the desired length and pinch its top.

2. In the second year, a few branches grow in the upper part; in August, its tops also need to be pinched. All leaves and twigs that appear below the intended crown must be immediately plucked off in the same way as shoots from the root.

3. By the third summer the crown will already be quite thick. All its branches must be pinched, all branches growing below the crown and from the root must be destroyed. In this third summer, the tree will already produce a small harvest.

4. In the fourth summer, fruiting will be more abundant. Our standard will be formed, thick, healthy with a glossy shine. And in the fourth summer, pinching the shoots is done in the same way as in previous years. Starting this year, all black, rough branches are cut out from the crown - these are old branches.

It must be said that the life of such a currant tree is approximately 3-4 years longer than that of an ordinary currant bush, that is, it can last 15-18 years. We must remember that every year you need to cut out shoots below the trunk, from the root and cut out old branches.

In addition to currants, such a tree can be made from gooseberries.

Standard gooseberry

Standard cultivation of gooseberries, i.e. in the form of a tree with one main trunk, it is very easy to care for the plant, and in particular watering and loosening the soil, as well as harvesting. At the same time, the berries become larger, and since all the branches and fruits on the trunk are well lit and ventilated, the risk of the plant contracting fungal and other diseases is significantly reduced.

There are two main ways to grow standard gooseberries: by forming a standard from a gooseberry plant, or by grafting gooseberries onto a golden currant standard (stem) with the further formation of a tree - a standard gooseberry.

How to properly form a standard gooseberry? It all starts with the usual planting of a gooseberry bush in a bright, sunny place. In the first year, the bush can grow up to 4 branches; they grow empty, until they need to be touched because the bush must form a powerful root system. Therefore, it needs to be fed and watered.

In the second year, we allow the bush to grow freely until harvest (if it produces berries in the second year), and young replacement shoots begin to appear at the base of the bush. Of these, you need to choose only one, the strongest and most powerful, and the rest should be removed while they are small and green. After harvesting, you must immediately cut out all last year's shoots at ground level, and only the replacement shoots you left behind should grow. It is this that will become the bole of the gooseberry trunk. With good feeding and watering, the trunk of this shoot will grow to 1-1.5 m. It must be tied to a reliable support (peg, reinforcement, etc.).

Next year a harvest will form on this shoot large berries, so let this trunk grow freely until harvest. During the season, all root shoots must be removed, and on the main stem after harvesting, all side branches can be shortened, leaving only 1 bud, from which side shoots will develop by autumn. Although you can shorten the side branches only in the fall, leaving 5-6 buds on them.

In the 3-4th year, a powerful root system is formed in the gooseberry, so in the spring 1-2 replacement offspring are left to replace the aged main stem, which after harvesting is all cut down to the base. In the future, do this annually. And if you have a powerful gooseberry bush with a good root system, then it can be formed with 2 or even 3 trunks. Care comes down to cutting out all thickening branches at the base of the stem, and caring for 1-2-3 replacement offspring that have grown since spring, while all other green shoots must be constantly removed. All old branches must be cut down to the ground after harvesting. Feeding and watering the bush, as well as loosening and mulching the soil are mandatory...

To form a gooseberry trunk on golden currants, it is necessary to graft gooseberries onto 1-2-year-old shoots of golden currants. This can be done by copulation or saddle at the end of summer, when a gooseberry is grafted onto a young shoot of golden currant, tied to a support (stake) to impart straight vertical growth. Gooseberries are grafted at a height of 40 to 100 cm or more, depending on the power of the rootstock (currant). Mature annual shoots are used as rootstock cuttings, from which the leaves are almost completely removed: only part of the leaf blade is left on each cutting. The binding from the grafted rootstock is removed only in the fall...

in spring next year cut off the excess part of the rootstock above the established scion gooseberry cuttings. The golden currant shoots on the trunk are all removed, and 3-5 shoots are left on the gooseberries to form the crown of the trunk. If the grafted cutting has formed one or two shoots, then in June they are pinched to develop the crown...