The door block is not load-bearing building element, therefore, loads from building structures should not be transferred to it. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the frame and the building structure.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
- Unpack the door frame.
- On flat surface to prevent damage to the product, assemble the elements of the box, choosing the desired side for opening the canvas. Check that the edges of the crossbar and the pillars are in the same plane, and at the place of their contact the gap does not exceed 1 mm. Drill four through holes on the back side of the crossbar, then connect the frame elements with self-tapping screws. For a self-tapping screw 4.2 x 70 we recommend a drill with a diameter of 3.5 mm.
- Insert the frame into the doorway and secure with wedges (at least three points on each side).
- Using a level, secure the hinge post strictly vertically using a hammer drill and mounting screws, using spacers between the opening and the frame at the fastening points.
- Loosen the hinge fastening screw and hang door leaf.
- Close the blade, and install the stand on the side of the lock so that the blade fits along the entire perimeter, providing an even gap, and secure the stand in this position.
- Open and close the blade several times, making sure that it is installed correctly and that nothing interferes with closing. Right installed door(when it opens 45°) should not open or close spontaneously.
- Finally secure the hinges to the screws and install the fittings.
- Fill the installation gap between the box and the wall with low-expanding polyurethane foam (when using foam, follow the manufacturer's instructions).
- It is recommended to install the platband only after completely dry polyurethane foam. During the drying period of the foam (about 12 hours), the door should be kept closed at all times.
CHANGING THE SIDE OF THE CANVAS
A blind canvas of standard height is available for both right and left. This is achieved due to the vertical symmetry of the canvas.
To change the door opening direction:
- unscrew the fastening screws and pull the lock body out of the door, turn it 180° (so that the lock tongue is on top, above the bolt), install the lock back in this position;
- Using pliers, pull the bolt out of the lock body by 3 mm and turn it 180°.
Tools required for installation: screwdriver with a set of bits, hammer drill or impact drill, level, wood saw, measuring tape.
Follow the instructions, be precise with measurements and check the results. Please read the instructions carefully before proceeding with installation. The external door is intended primarily for use as front door in private houses for year-round use, mansions and townhouses, in buildings where thermal insulation qualities are required.
It is strictly forbidden to install doors in a house under construction or in a room where wet work is being carried out (for example, concreting a floor, pouring screed, etc.). Excessive moisture can cause wood to warp and paint to peel. In addition, the fittings, including the lock body, may become rusty.
ATTENTION! When installing entrance doors in the cold season, it is necessary to use certified mounting foams specifically designed for use in low temperatures- information with specific recommendations for use is usually printed on the cylinder by the manufacturer.
Always install moisture barrier (bitumen strip, etc.) between the horizontal base and the threshold.
Never install the box directly on a concrete floor or screed! Use, for example, bitumen strip, etc.
Doors should be installed in places with a sufficiently long roof overhang or canopy over the door, which will protect the door surface from moisture and sunlight.
When determining the size of the canopy, you should be guided by the following formula: the width of the canopy D must be at least half the height of the canopy (distance from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the canopy, see diagram).
Entrance door installation steps:
Stage 1
Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal.
Install the ebb in the mounting opening and place the assembled box on it
Coat the seam with sealing compound.
Low tide can be installed later. In this case, bring the ebb tide under the threshold
and glue it, installing the ebb in the groove intended for it in the threshold.
Stage 2
Secure the box in the mounting opening using wedges, inserting them above the mounting holes of the box so that the side of the box with hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside, the other from the inside. Use a spirit level to check that the box is level.
Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal
and secure the hinge side of the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 3
Install anti-burglary pins in the door. Do not screw them in completely, leave a margin of 10mm. Hang the door leaf on its hinges.
Tighten the anti-burglary pins as far as they will go, install and tighten the hinge mounting screws.
Stage 4
Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock strike plate exactly (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Secure the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 5
To adjust the door height, use a hex key. Before adjusting the door sideways, loosen the security pins and mounting screws. Adjust to the side using the adjusting screw provided for this purpose. After adjustment, tighten the anti-burglary pins and mounting screws as far as possible.
Adjusting the hinges of the Jeld-Wen entrance door
Blade position outer door can be adjusted in height and horizontally using the hinge adjustment.
This is especially true, for example, when shrinking a house.
Height adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hex wrench.
Door adjustment up
- Loosen the upper adjusting screw (1) on all hinges by turning it 2-3 turns with a hexagon.
- By turning the adjusting screws (2) on the bottom of the hinges, set the door to the desired height position.
- Be sure to tighten all hinge screws an equal number of turns to evenly distribute the weight of the door on the hinges.
- Tighten the retaining screws on top of all hinges (1).
Door adjustment down
- Loosen the lower adjusting screw (2) on all hinges except one by 2-3 turns.
- By turning the screw (2) of the remaining hinge counterclockwise, lower the door to the desired height.
- Tighten the adjustment screws (2) of the remaining hinges to the same position to evenly distribute the weight of the door across all hinges.
- Finally, tighten the upper adjustment screws (1) without excessive force.
Horizontal door adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hexagon, Phillips screwdriver.
Increasing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Tighten the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
Reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Loosen the mounting screws (3) and the anti-removal pin (5) on all hinges by 2-3 turns.
- Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Loosen the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
- Carefully tighten the screws (3) and anti-removal pins (5).
Stage 6
Does the door close tightly?
The closing tightness can be adjusted using adjustments in the strike plate.
Stage 7
Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the frame by filling it with mineral wool. Then coat the gap with a sealing elastic mass to vapor-waterproof the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam, because when it expands, it can deform the door frame and complicate possible subsequent door adjustments.
Instructions for servicing external doors
Painted products
The products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for resistance to scratches, wear resistance and appearance surfaces that can withstand exposure to many household chemicals, grease and solvents.
Cleaning
Use regular detergents (non-alkaline), such as dishwashing liquid. To clean mold, use special means to remove mold. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, streaks from drips may appear on the door. Wipe dry.
Service
Normal cleaning is usually sufficient unless the door is damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain shine, however, it is recommended, after washing, to rub the door surfaces, for example, with car wax.
Touch up
It is best to touch up minor damage with a brush and alkyd or acrylate enamel of a suitable color and gloss level, intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the original paint material on small surface, for example, by coloring small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.
Product quality and warranty conditions for Jed-Wen doors
Jeld-Wen manufactures its products in accordance with the requirements of the unified European standard CE.
What is CE?
The CE mark is a guarantee for the consumer that this product complies with the essential requirements of the European Harmonized Standard and can therefore be legally placed on the market.
CE marking has long been mandatory on products such as toys and electronics, but Lately, this unified standard is established for certain building materials.
What does this mean for the consumer?
All CE marked products carry product data in the Declaration of Performance (DoP) format, allowing clear and easy comparisons between similar products and providing the consumer with the information they need to make an informed decision.
The DoP provides key information on the performance characteristics of construction products that have been independently tested and certified by an EU body.
All products subject to these Directives are required to be marked with the CE mark, either on the product itself or on its packaging - the CE logo and a number which indicates the relevant DoP.
Failure of the product to comply with the requirements of the CE standard in terms of curvature of the blade or frame is considered a warranty defect.
We apologize if you encountered a defect in JELD-WEN products! If you find a defect, please contact us and provide your order number. Please note that a defective product cannot be installed or used!
How to measure whether a door leaf is curved?
Place the door leaf on a flat horizontal surface
Measure the distance between central part door leaf and the surface on which it is located (mm)
Allowed curvature of up to 5 mm per door leaf
How to measure if a door frame is warped?
Curvature towards the wall
Place the box (flat) on a horizontal, flat surface so that the ends of the box touch the ground.
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the wall is 3 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M 6 mm per vertical of the box.
Curvature towards the edge of the box
Place the box on its side on a flat, horizontal surface with the ends of the box touching the surface.
Measure the gap between the center of the box and the surface (mm).
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the edge is 1.5 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M up to 3 mm per one of its verticals)
We are not responsible for product defects resulting from normal wear and tear, improper storage, installation and operation.
Before installing external doors, carefully read the installation instructions. JELD-WEN is not responsible for product defects resulting from improper storage, use or installation.
Storage
Check the product immediately upon receipt! An incorrect or defective product is not suitable for installation!
Doors should be stored in a well-ventilated area inside the building on a horizontal and level surface. Avoid scratches and other mechanical damage!
The doors should not be stored in a place exposed to direct sunlight, in a heat-free or damp room, on the ground or concrete, but should be placed on a hard, level and dry surface.
Exterior door installation
The door must be installed in such a way that it is not directly exposed to heavy rain and solar radiation. The door must be installed in a niche located in the wall or a canopy must be placed over the door.
- Dark-colored doors may become warped and dull when exposed to intense sunlight.
- Changing the dimensions of the product, making cuts and repainting is not allowed. If necessary, consult your factory representative.
- During installation and repair work the door must be protected with construction cardboard or film to avoid damage during finishing.
- Protect the door (eg film or paper) during finishing works on site until complete completion! When using adhesive tape to secure film or paper, be careful not to let the adhesive side of the tape stick to the door or frame.
Tools required: moisture guard, hammer, saw, screwdriver, levels (500 mm and 2000 mm), angle, drill, mounting wedges, pencil, tape measure, hex wrench, insulating wool and sealant.
Entrance doors are supplied as a set - the frame is mounted with a threshold and the door is hung on hinges.
Before you begin installation, make sure the quality of the product and its contents:
- Door leaf
- Door frame
- Hinges, lock body, striker plate
- Threshold
- Seals, plugs for mounting holes
- Installation instructions. Warranty conditions.
Installation of FUNCTION and Classic exterior doors and balcony doors
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Place the door kit on the base with the opening side down! Open the package from the edge (from the outside of the box to avoid possible appearance scratches on exterior decoration)! Separate the box from the canvas! Separate the box from the canvas! |
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Also check that the vertical and horizontal sides of the box are straight! |
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Entrance doors can be adjusted in height and horizontally. AdjustmentByheight - adjustmentdoorsup
Height adjustment - door adjustment downwards
Horizontal adjustment - reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
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| Install plugs on the mounting holes. Install the lock and handle. |  |
| To fill the gap between the frame and the opening, use insulating materials (glass wool, mineral wool or polyurethane foam). You can fill the gap between the threshold and the floor with silicone. |  |
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Install the front door in a niche or under a canopy. The minimum canopy should be 70 mm wide, but when installing an entrance door with glazing, we recommend using a canopy with a minimum width of 500 mm. |
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BASIC entrance door installation
Before installing the door, check whether it matches the size of the doorway and whether the opening is even and has right angles. Doorway there should be more external dimensions boxes 15 - 45 mm. Adjust it if necessary. Also check that the base under the threshold is horizontal and rigid.
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Place the door kit on the base with the opening side down! Open the package from the edge (from the outside of the box to avoid possible scratches on the exterior)! Separate the box from the canvas! |
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Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal and stable! Attach the threshold to the floor using silicone! Also check that the vertical and horizontal sides of the box are straight! |
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| To secure door frame choose special fastening hardware! You can use screws with wedges or sleeves. When using sleeves, you do not need wedges. |  |
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Secure the hinge side of the box first and then the lock side! Gaps between the box and doorway can be maximum 20 mm. Check if the box is straight! |
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| Choose mounting hardware according to the wall material! |  |
| If you use sleeves, then mounting wedges will not be needed, since the sleeve allows you to adjust the distance of the frame from the doorway. |  |
| Check that both the vertical and horizontal sides of the box are straight! |  |
| Hang the door on its hinges! To do this, loosen the bolt a little, hang the door and tighten the bolt. Then screw the hinges using screws! Make sure that the corner of the door does not touch the floor! Impact may damage the finish! |  |
| Close the door and make sure that the door leaf (especially the corners on the lock side of the frame) is flush with the frame! |  |
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If necessary, adjust the position of the doors using the hinges! Height adjustment
Lateral adjustment
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| Cover the mounting holes with plastic plugs! |  |
| Fill the space between the threshold and the floor with silicone! Add blocks if necessary! |  |
| Install the front door in a niche or under a canopy. The minimum canopy should be 70 mm wide, but when installing an entrance door with glazing, we recommend using a canopy with a minimum width of 500 mm. |  |
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Using strips of insulating wool, fill the gap between the frame and the wall opening so that the strip of wool leaves free space to the outer edge of the box 10-20 mm. WITH inside boxes, use glue to glue the insulating wool to the box! WITH outside do not use glue boxes! Install platbands! |
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| Adjust the screws that hold the strike plate in place so that the door closes tightly! |  |
Instructions for caring for external doors
- If the door is not damaged or badly worn, then easy cleaning with ordinary detergents(not alkaline). To ensure that the door retains its shine, you can treat it with car wax once a year after cleaning. This also makes subsequent cleaning easier. Cleaning with abrasives and solvents is prohibited.
- Clean veneered external doors with a dry and clean cloth. It is advisable to re-oil the door leaf and frame once a year. For this purpose, use colored oils intended for use in external conditions (when oiling, read the instructions included with the product).
Is it possible to install standard mortise fittings on a Finnish interior door? How to choose a handle and trim according to the color of the canvas? What kind of mechanism is installed in cylinder locks? Can it be replaced with a regular Euro cylinder? The answers to these and other questions are in our new article.
1. IN BRIEF: WHAT ARE FINNISH DOORS
Doors according to the Finnish standard are ready for installation door block. It includes:
- Already sawed and assembled box height 2090 mm.
- A smooth or paneled canvas with a rebate (quarter) into which the lock, its strike plate and hinges are embedded.
Thus, assembly is simplified as much as possible. The buyer only has to secure the block in the opening, select the handles and trim and screw it into the canvas through two factory holes. Things to do for half an hour, no more.
The leaves of such doors are, as a rule, lightweight (with honeycomb filling) and thin (15-60 mm), and the fittings are as simple as possible. This is due to the low cost - from about 2,000 rubles per block. Add to this amazing property go with anything - even with home furniture from IKEA, even with equipment and sterile white walls of the X-ray room. It becomes clear why Finnish doors so popular.
However, Finnish-type doors have one unpleasant feature. They have their own fittings, so standard push handles, locks, escutcheons and hinges will not fit them. Let's talk about this in more detail.
2. HANDLES FOR FINNISH DOORS
Have emphasized ascetic design- no ornament or fancy shapes. Structurally, they are very simple and, unlike standard halyard handles, are not spring-loaded. On the base there are two holes for tightening screws; fastening with screws is not possible. 
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Questions and answers
1. “Is it possible to put a regular push handle on a Finnish door?”
No, they will not fit the lock due to the mismatch of the holes for the tie screws (in the Finnish lock, the holes for the tie screws are not in horizontal plane). They also have different sockets (Finnish door handles– 50 mm, just under the factory hole on the canvas; standard ones often have more). Often a square is not suitable: either too long (140 mm or more instead of the required 90-100 mm), or the wrong section.
2. “But salespeople in stores say that it’s possible...”
If you widen the hole in the blade, remake the return spring of the handle and bore the holes in the lock body. But this is a waste of time, effort, money and there is no guarantee that the result will be justified.
3.“What materials are handles for Finnish interior doors made from?”
Usually made of silumin, aluminum or zinc alloy TsAM. The latter are more reliable, but also more expensive (the cost is close to the price of the door). Although silumin handles are cheap, they are fragile and short-lived. Accordingly, aluminum - golden mean. We sell aluminum handles, you can order them in our online store.
4.“How to choose a handle to match the color of the door?”
It's easiest with a white handle: it matches white, as well as a number of light and pastel shades from the RAL palette. WITH gray doors The chrome goes well together. If the canvas is finished with wood, it is already more difficult. You can use our table as a guide:
3. MORTISE LOCKS FOR FINNISH DOORS
Interior doors are installed on “original” (made in Finland) doors. Abloy locks, on Finnish doors Russian production– as a rule, their analogues. You can buy any by and large the only difference is the cost. All locks are universal (suitable for left and right-handed doors), have a latch, and some have a locking mechanism (cylinder or lever). 
Price for the site: from 299 rubles.
Questions and answers
1. “Is it possible to install a standard mortise lock instead of a Finnish lock?”
No, due to the discrepancy between the dimensions, the distance from the center of the key hole to the edge of the lock, the length of the bolt extension (for Finnish locks - 13-14 mm), incompatibility with handles and plumbing linings.
2. “Which mechanism (“cylinder”) fits my cylinder lock?”
With a 95% probability, your lock is equipped with a Euro cylinder (DIN). You will recognize it by the characteristic teardrop-shaped silhouette of the end part: 
All Eurocylinders are interchangeable; the manufacturer's brand does not matter. By the way, you can also buy them from us. At the same time, you can choose a cylinder of the same class or a more advanced model: with a large number of secret combinations and improved protection against hacking. Each cylinder comes with at least 5 keys.
3. “I can functionally replace lever mechanism lock on a plumbing screw (and vice versa)?
Yes. However, keep in mind that you will need to change the key cover.
4. “Why are they not installed on Finnish-type doors? magnetic locks?»
They install, but rarely. Firstly, not all manufacturers make them. Secondly, these are, as a rule, the simplest plumbing latches without a locking mechanism. Thirdly, they are 3-5 times more expensive than mechanical models, are not as durable and require ultra-precise alignment with the strike plate.
5. “Locks for doors according to Finnish technology They click loudly when activated. What can be done?"
This is a feature of mechanical locks with a metal latch. You can reduce the clanging by installing seals at the corners of the box and adjusting the strike plate.
6. “My strike plate is worn out. Can I buy it separately without changing the lock?
Yes, look in our catalogue.
4. LININGS FOR FINNISH DOORS
They play a decorative role, closing a factory hole in the canvas, or expand the functionality of the latch, turning it into a lock. Match the color of the handle.
Questions and answers
1. “Plugs, wraps, turnkey covers - how are they different?”
A cap (shield) is a cover with a purely decorative function. Install on interior doors with a latch lock (for example, in the living room). 
Screw (lock) - a lining with a rotary handle that allows you to lock a door with a latch lock from the inside. Suitable for bathroom, toilet. 
Cover for the cylinder mechanism. Suitable for offices, offices and other commercial or public premises- doors requiring locking with a key. 
Overlay for level wrench. The set of locks for Finnish doors model 004 includes a Buratino key. 
2. “Will regular pads work?”
No, due to incompatibility with locks and discrepancy in the diameter of the escutcheon (should be 50 mm).
5. HINGES FOR FINNISH DOORS
It is difficult to find them on sale, and they are rarely interested in them: pre-installed factory ones last for 15-30 years of service, and often more. But if you cannot do without replacing the hinges, we recommend contacting the manufacturer or supplier of your doors. 
A spare option is screw-in hinges, they are just suitable for canvases with a rebate and have vertical adjustment. True, they are not suitable for very thin doors (they can split the leaf when screwed in).
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We remind you that in our catalog you can buy fittings for any Finnish doors, regardless of the brand and country of origin of the manufacturer. Compatibility – 100%.
Prices – from 39 rub.
Tags: Finnish fittings
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