With the emergence innovative technologies ordinary residents were given the opportunity to furnish their homes with greater comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. Finally, we can get rid of wooden windows, which dry out in the summer, dry out in the winter, do not retain heat well and become sources of drafts.

Double-glazed window modern type has absolutely no listed disadvantages. It is durable, strong, safe for human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: installation of double-glazed windows must be carried out in accordance with GOST and compliance with all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?

Trying to install double-glazed windows yourself is quite problematic, especially if you live in a multi-story building. This will require a mountaineer's skill, which you won't have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers come to you who deserve numerous good reviews, who have recommendations, you should check that they are installing your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of installing plastic windows, which you must control on your part.

Window installation

The technology for installing a plastic window according to GOST involves step-by-step implementation of a number of measures and activities according to specified criteria, and in strict sequence each stage.

Installation of PVC windows according to GOST begins with dismantling an old window: workers must remove it completely, clean the opening down to brick or concrete base frames Next, workers must prime the surface of the slopes, into which the new frame will fit.

Please note that when working, installers use a primer, but not water. The primer will ensure good adhesion of materials, which will then be used to isolate the resulting voids.

How is the special tape attached to the PVC frame? The compacted compressed tape is attached around the entire perimeter frames with outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that remains in the window opening. This device prevents the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.

Then to window frame attach diffusion tape. As a rule, she white, dense fabric structure on a rubber base. It adheres well to wall openings and also protects the seam from moisture.

After attaching all the tapes, the installers attach anchor plates to the frame. They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After this, the window block can be installed in the window opening.

Now the installation of a plastic window according to GOST moves to another stage, including fastening to window opening.

Important! The double-glazed window should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that are treated with an antiseptic composition. These pads help adjust the gaps between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing standards, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.

When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with foam.

Foam is additional thermal insulation. It should fill all gaps and cracks to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the polyurethane foam that helps reduce noise. After sealing the cracks from the inside with foam, the seams must be cover with dense diffuse tape.

Before installing the window sill, workers must use metallized tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the bottom seam.

Remember! Professional installers must lay protective tape along the outside area of ​​the window, that is, from the street. And the polyurethane foam should not be visible from the façade at all.

Window sill fastening

- This final stage of installation of PVC windows.

Placed on a concrete base cement screed, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only with this solution it will not sag and even can support a person's weight who wanted to sit down on a comfortable base.

Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is carried out using measurements building level which helps monitor the frame tilt level. If it exceeds the norm even slightly, the window will not open or close well. Therefore for construction crew need to be watched carefully.

Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 must be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before releasing the workers and signing the work acceptance certificate, check the operation of the window, open and close the doors and make sure proper operation in all directions.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of what the installation of a plastic window should look like according to GOST:

If you have ever installed plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely clear the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• take down the curtains
• clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, supply 220V power via an extension cord and prepare garbage bags.

Removing the old frame

Once the room is ready for dust and debris to appear, begin dismantling the old window frame.

The sashes are removed from the window. Dismantled window casings. If necessary, the slopes are dismantled (knocked down).

The old window frame is dismantled, which usually causes serious damage. If you want to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of preserving the old windows when ordering.

The old sill and the old window sill are dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass unit is removed. The window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and secured with anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal; the frame should also be aligned vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. Foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this installation stage. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and the degree of expansion of the foam must be taken into account.

Installing a plastic window in most cases means that along with the new window a new window sill and a new sill will be installed. The exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is renovation work and the window sill can be installed on your own.

If the window being mounted opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite practical and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old sill, you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - payable service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new ebb.

The window sill is cut to fit the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, masonry or sealing of the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), make sure that it has an inclination from the window within 5 degrees, and that the overhang is beyond inner surface walls no more than 60 mm.

When installing the window sill, you should take into account that its edges extend beyond the finish. internal slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is “recessed” under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width installed window sill will be 2 cm smaller)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are insulated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is a layer of foam) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, in addition, it best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day as the window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

The slopes are either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable trims.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should know them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at a right angle to the window), which visually increases the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for more accurate wallpapering when already established slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: If you are renovating your apartment, then it is better to install platbands on the slopes from a Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing accessories on windows

On final stage A double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening additional elements fittings and components, such as: stepped ventilator, clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, a work acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after all the work is completed, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing a PVC window.

In terms of functionality, a plastic window is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions With its care and use, it will last you forever.

Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removing the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be done after installing the products and finishing the installation opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If renovation work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until completion. However, on the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General installation requirements according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams of junctions of window blocks to wall openings. Are common technical specifications» put into effect by order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation on March 1, 2003.

Due to the need to adjust design documentation for design and construction organizations The transition period for the development of GOST is set until 07/01/2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian standards.

What's new? New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Window Installation Instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation units for each facility under construction and coordination of units with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and also provides for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance window openings before installation, performance certificates hidden work and acceptance certificates for completed window installations.

Of particular interest in the standards are the Annexes:

• Appendix A (recommended) contains drawings with examples of window installation;
• Appendix B (recommended) sets out requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and is essentially the main working document;
• Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window companies and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams is generally justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience by defining properties installation materials and quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST; this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, to which you need to pay the closest attention.

Three layers of seam sealing

The content of the main part of the standards is devoted to the rules for filling the installation gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is tighter than the outside.” Each assembly unit must have three layers of sealing: on the outside - protection from climate impacts, in the middle - insulation, from the inside - vapor barrier. You can use different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one design or another, these three sealing planes must be present.

Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable in order for the insulation to be ventilated through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, it thermal insulation qualities fall. The best way PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes) meet modern requirements for the outer layer. These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks in the quarter in the opening.

Despite serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastered, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that PSUL cannot be covered with plaster.

To a limited extent, silicone can be used outside. In this case, certain rules must be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer must be half the width of the seam being filled, and the silicone must be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the remaining sides must remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating the installation seam. Although it is not clearly stated in GOST, there is no ban on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes might want it. An example of using silicone outside and inside a room is shown in node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as can sometimes be observed on objects, to simply spread silicone on top of the foam - this is an imitation of seam protection, but not the protection itself.

Central layer– thermal insulation. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its implementation. It is best to use foams designed specifically for window installation. Such foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. After installation, other foams hang in clumps from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

Inner layer– vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor from the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly butyl based, are used, as well as painted vapor barriers for moisture resistant plasterboards. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

An assembly seam is a node where the joining of wall and window structures, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heating technology, occurs. And it is important to make the knots in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is a problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak area is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low heat transfer resistance. An area appears on the slope with a surface temperature below the dew point. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensation occurs on it. If moisture condensation on a slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here the heating engineering of the junction units should be especially carefully considered.

An important recommendation is that if quarters are missing, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and the likelihood of cold bridges is high. The options given in GOST with false quarters from corners or from platband are possible only if external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of thermal engineering.

If there is effective insulation in the wall ( mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should be either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the frame and sashes increase in size. The calculated thermal expansion values ​​for white windows should be 1.5 mm per 1 linear meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up significantly less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the outer fastening elements are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch of no more than 70 cm for white profiles, and no more than 60 cm for colored profiles. Near the imposts, the fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the frame and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of windows and to the fact that a thinner seam is very difficult to fill evenly with foam insulation.

Bearing blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed on the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one turning sash, the blocks are placed on the side opposite the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges at the bottom. With two doors, four blocks are installed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of junctions between window frames and walls

1 – window sill board;
2 – foam insulation;
3 – vapor barrier tape;
4 – flexible anchor plate;
5 – support block for the window sill board;
6 – plaster mortar;
7 – dowel with locking screw;
8 – liner made of antiseptic lumber or leveling layer made of plaster mortar(recommended for the bottom node only);
9 – waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape;
10 – noise-absorbing gasket;
11 – drain;
12 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 – sealant thin layer

1 – foam insulation;
2 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 – frame dowel;
4 – sealant;
5 – vapor barrier tape;
6 – panel for finishing the internal slope;
7 – plaster leveling layer of the internal slope.

Thermal clearances must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized elements glazing: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing to the entire height of the floor. These are the three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on various designs walls and the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we already said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - responsible and high-quality work of installers.

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 “On Silence”, disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our instructions on carrying out noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST?

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The installation seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, when using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or the other will affect the stage (duration) of work and final cost installation of windows.

Video instructions for installing plastic windows

Installing PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from dampness. You can find out how to install a plastic window according to GOST, and what materials to use for this, by reading our article.

For high-quality and fast work you will need the following set of tools:

• Hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Drill-driver.
• Nail puller.
• Sledgehammer.
• Level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil.
• "Bulgarian".
• Silicone gun.
• Square.
• Metal scissors.
• Putty knife.
• Slick.
• Rubber hammer.
• Pliers.
• Brush.

Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window you must have the following consumables:

• • PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has different thickness and width and is designed to hide the external foam seam.

• • Vapor barrier tapes are needed to hide the foam seam indoors. Tapes can be metallized or fabric-based. Metallized tapes are used for “dry” finishing of window openings (plastic slopes, plasterboard or PVC panels). Vapor barrier tape on a fabric basis, designed for finishing materials on water based(plaster, plaster, etc.).

• • Diffusion tape– needed as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to allow air to pass through, but not water to pass through.

• • Substrate under the window sill– this is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, which serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

• • Anchor plates– window fastenings connecting the frame to window opening. Anchor plates allow you to secure a window in an opening without through holes in the frame.

• • Self-tapping screws – secure the anchor plates to the window.

• • Dowel screws – connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

• • Primer composition– intended for surface treatment where vapor barrier tapes are glued.

• • Wooden wedges– needed for intermediate fastening of the window in the opening and setting the level.

• • Stand profile– is attached to the bottom of the frame and serves as a stand under the window and a mount for the cornice and window sill.

• • Plastic window sill– comes complete with the window, but if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

• • Drain - rarely included in the basic set of a plastic window, usually ordered separately.

• Polyurethane foam - used to fill seams and as an additional fastening element.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, perform the following steps:

1. Remove all sashes from their hinges.
2. Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
3. Detach the trim, drain and sill from the frame.
4. Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
5. Using a grinder, cut off all frame fastenings.
6. Pull the frame out of the opening.
7. Remove any remaining foam and mortar from the frame location.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work:

1. Remove the window sashes from their hinges by knocking out the awning rods using a hammer and screwdriver.
2. Remove the glass panes from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the mounting grooves; this can be done using rubber mallet and a wide chisel or spatula.
3. Attach the support profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and frame, use PSUL as a spacer between them.
4. Install anchor strips around the perimeter of the window. The tapes are screwed to the frame and stand profile using screws. For ease of installation, lead the ends of the anchor strips indoors. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
5. Glue PSUL on the top and side racks frame, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with foam.
6. Apply diffusion tape to the support profile on the outside of the window.
7. For guard inside seams, glue vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Installation of a window in an opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

1. Secure the frame in the opening using wedges.
2. Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a level.
3. Having aligned the frame in the correct position, through the holes in anchor strips, mark the locations for the dowel screws.
4. After drilling holes with a hammer drill, secure the frame in window opening on anchor tapes.
5. Using a brush and primer, treat the areas where vapor barrier tapes and PSULs are glued.
6. Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
7. After the foam has dried, trim off any excess.
8. Glue the PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

1. Spread the diffusion tape and place the drain on it.
2. Attach the drain to the stand profile using self-tapping screws.
3. Cut the window sill according to the shape of the window opening slopes.
4. In the place where the window sill will be located, place metallized tape with insulation.
5. Insert the window sill into the support profile and secure it with screws.
6. Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and window sill with silicone sealant.

Final works

1. Insert double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
2. Place the sashes in their places.
3. Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window is installed, all that remains is to finish the opening slopes and then remove the protective film.

You can also view detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards in the video:

Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.

However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing windows

The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:

1. Dismantling old windows.
2. Preparatory activities for installing a new window.
3. Installation of the stand profile.
4. Attaching the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
5. Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
6. Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
7. PVC fastening.
8. Filling all seams with polyurethane foam.
9. Window sill installation and leveling.
10. Fastening slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Low tide installation.

It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:

1. Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
2. Preparing to install the opening.
3. Do-it-yourself preparation of PVC windows.
4. Direct installation.

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Measurements and calculations

Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:

• has a quarter;
• does not have a quarter.

A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.

If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.

As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.

In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.

There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.

You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.

As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.

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Making a window opening

So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.

First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done different ways. If you are dealing with old wooden window, then it’s better to do this:

1. First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or nails holding them in place.
2. Then remove any nails or glazing beads that are holding the frame itself.
3. Remove frame.

Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.

It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so old layer it is necessary to remove it, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.

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The process of preparing a new window

It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.

It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from bottom loop. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.

It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.

WITH outside The protective film must be removed from the frame so that this does not cause any difficulties later.

Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. Minimum distance there should be at least 15 cm from the attachment point to the corner.

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Installation methods for PVC windows

It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.

So, PVC installation windows can be done in one of two ways:

• on anchor bolts or dowels;
• using special fastening fittings.

Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.

Installation using these fasteners is good when we're talking about about concrete, block or brick walls.

As for fastening fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.

The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.

If you want to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid extra work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.

Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.

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Installation technology

Window installation begins with the prepared frame or the entire window being inserted into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners around the entire perimeter. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.

The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these same corners.

Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.

This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.

Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:

1. If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only so as to slightly “bait” it.
2. On concrete or brick walls, marks are placed through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled at the marks. The frame is then installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
3. In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.

After preliminary installation, you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.

After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.

Then you should attach all the window parts dismantled at the preparatory stage, that is, glass or sashes. After installation they should be adjusted.

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.

When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar will also work.

The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally, it is attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.

The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.

After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.

After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.