Plants can not only enhance and decorate your room, make it cozy, but also bring happiness. It is popularly believed that every indoor plant carries a certain energy that can affect a person’s life. It can even determine whether a person feels happy or not. One of these plants is beautyHoya, hoya, wax ivy - a hanging plant for vertical gardening of a room.This plant should bring you great family happiness, especially if you place Hoya in the bedroom.

Hoya, hoya (Hoya), wax ivy is an evergreen vine from the family of Asclepiadaceae. The genus Hoya, named after the English gardener Thomas Hoy, has about 200 species. IN natural conditions Khoya is found in Southern China, Australia, and India. In nature, these vines spread on rocky slopes and in forests on tree trunks.

Among them there are hanging and curly ones; some species have antennae with which they cling to support. The leaves are oval and heart-shaped, in most species they are dark green, but there are also two or three colors, with spots and specks. Hoya compacta has curled leaves.

At home, one species is most often found - Hoya carnosa. This is a hanging plant with shoots up to 6-7 meters long. Hoya's dark green, leathery leaves are arranged oppositely. The surface of the leaf blade appears glossy, as if rubbed with wax, which is why the plant is called wax ivy.

Hoya is one of the few climbing indoor plants, blooming at home. Its flowers are graceful, white, pink, yellowish stars, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences. Khoya has a fleshy corolla white with a red center and there are about 24 flowers in an inflorescence. Hoya's is amazing beautiful flowers- marshmallow-caramel from which sweet nectar oozes. The aroma is amazing!

Mature plants at good lighting and proper care they bloom for a very long time and profusely.

An east or west window is suitable for hoya in an apartment; it grows well in winter on a south window. In the summer heat, leaves on sunny windows may lighten and dry out, and plant growth may slow down due to overheating.

Hoya compacta Hoya macgregorii Hoya limonica

Wax ivy is often used for vertical gardening in offices and apartments. Also used as a creeping ground cover plant in well-lit areas of the winter garden.

Hoya is an unpretentious plant: if you don’t think about it often, don’t move it from place to place, water it and replant it rarely, then it will delight you with long and abundant flowering. This is why wax ivy can often be found in office premises, sometimes this vine entwines the entire wall with its shoots.

Hoya imperialis

Hoya incrassate	Hoya linearis

Hoya bella

Much less common in homes are species such as Hoya imperialis, Hoya bella and Hoya longifolia, although they are not particularly capricious and caring for them does not require any special knowledge.

Hoya beautiful (Hoya bella) is a small evergreen, branched shrub with small leaves with hanging shoots up to 30-50 cm long. This is an epiphytic plant; it settles on the branches of tropical trees. Requires very moderate lighting, high humidity and uniform temperature throughout the year.

Hoya majestic (Hoya imperialis) has pubescent creeping shoots, its oval leathery leaves are up to 15-20 cm long. The flowers are collected in hanging umbels on pubescent short stalks, dark red, yellow on the outside, with pleasant aroma.

Hoya longifolia

General rules for caring for wax ivy.

Hoya is not a capricious plant, does not require high humidity and frequent watering, grows well in poor soil, and does not need frequent replanting.

Temperature. During a period of active growth optimal temperature 17-25 C. In winter, 15 degrees is quite enough. Hoya can spend the whole winter even at 10 C. Hoya beautiful is more thermophilic and at cold wintering may lose leaves.

Lighting and location. Wax ivy prefers bright light, but does not like direct sunlight in the summer. It grows well in a southern room, twining around the walls like an hanging plant.

The location cannot be changed - due to rearrangement, the hoya can lose all its buds and even shed its leaves. This is a plant permanent place, therefore not suitable for summer gardening of balconies.

Humidity. Humidity is not significant. Only Hoya beautiful grows better in a humid room. In summer, it is advisable to spray hoya.

Watering. Watering moderately, after the soil dries, in winter time scarce. The plant tolerates lack of moisture well. For good flowering in winter, water little.

Fertilizer. Fertilizer is applied 2 times a month throughout the growing season, starting in March. In winter they do not feed.

Bloom. Hoya blooms only in good light. For successful flowering, it is important to properly maintain this plant in winter. Wax ivy should grow in winter in a bright and cool (10-15 C) room; water it very little.

To stimulate flowering, the pot is immersed in warm water for 2 hours, and the entire plant is sprayed with water heated to 30-40 C.

After flowering, the flower stalks are not cut off - next year new inflorescences appear on them.

The soil. Hoya is not picky about soil; in nature it grows on rocky screes or on trees. It grows well in almost any soil; you can prepare a mixture of leaf, turf soil, humus, peat and sand in equal quantities or from clay-turf, leaf and greenhouse soil (2:1:1).

Good drainage is installed at the bottom of the pot so that the earthen ball does not become waterlogged and the roots do not rot.

Transfer. All hoyas are replanted quite rarely, once every 2-3 years, sometimes less often. For stimulation abundant flowering, the dishes are used tight. To achieve good growth It is better to choose a larger pot for shoots.

Be sure to have a hole in the bottom and good drainage.

Reproduction. Hoya propagates by seeds, layering, but most often by cuttings.

Each cutting must have at least two pairs of leaves. Cut the cuttings between the nodes. Hoya cuttings take root in water or in a mixture of peat and sand. The roots appear after 3-4 weeks at a temperature of at least 20 C.

Stem layering allows you to get a flowering plant in the year of planting. To do this, make a small cut on the shoot of an old plant, cover it with damp moss and cover it with plastic film. When the roots appear, this part of the shoot with roots is cut off and planted in a pot. You can spread part of the stem on the soil in a new pot and secure it to the surface, covering it with damp moss. After rooting, separate from the mother plant.

For propagation, it is recommended to take parts of only mature, already flowering plants.

Crown formation.

For branching, plants are pinched after the formation of the 4th leaf. Shoots that are too long are cut off, which promotes intense flowering. The stems need support. Threads are often used to secure the plant to a window or wall.

You can use a ring of wire, the ends of which are simply placed in the pot. The pot should be heavy enough to prevent the plant from tipping over.

Diseases and pests. All common types of hoya are resistant to pests and diseases, but with poor care (very heat, too dry air) can be affected by scale insects and red spider mites. It is necessary to treat the plant with Actellik or another insecticide.

Hoyas are also affected by root nematodes. The soil for replanting must be steamed.

Possible problems.

Leaves fall off - excessive moisture or simply moved the plant to another window. “Leaf fall” also occurs when the soil is very cool in winter (for example, standing on a cold window or watering with cold water in the summer heat).

Spots on the leaves indicate a lack of light or, conversely, sunburn.

Hoya does not bloom - insufficient lighting or too warm wintering. You can try a warm shower for stimulation.

The leaves are too light, curl or dry out - the sun is too bright, it is better to shade the plant.

Flower buds and flowers fall off - plant movement or very dry and hot air.

Slow growth, leaves turn pale green - lack of nutrients in the soil. The plant needs to be replanted.

Hoya - incredible interesting plant. Botanists and flower growers became acquainted with this miracle in the mid-18th century. And for more than two hundred years, hoya (often called wax ivy) has held the attention of professionals and amateurs. Articles and books are dedicated to this flower; it gathers its fans in clubs and communities. And what’s curious is that interest in hoya does not wane over the years, but, on the contrary, increases. Scientists have begun to study the impact of hoya on ecology and its practical use. And amateur flower growers have reached such heights that they grow plants at home that were previously cultivated only in greenhouses. What's the attraction? wax ivy? Firstly, these are unusual, like toy flowers. Secondly, bright, monochromatic or variegated, lush greenery on flexible stems. Thirdly, easy character. Among the hoyas, of course, there are capricious beauties. But even a novice gardener can make friends with the plant.

The long history of the spectacular flower called hoya

Hoya is native to southeast Asia, northeast Australia and the islands between these continents. It was born in the humid and hot tropics and grows mainly in sunny woodlands or on the edge of the forest. The stems of wild-growing hoya, covered with thick leaves, grow up to 10 meters; for development they need support: a tall tree or a rocky wall. Some species lead an epiphytic or semi-epiphytic lifestyle. That is, they can live without soil or, having settled at a height, they descend roots and grow into the soil. Wild Hoyas - good honey plants. Their flowers are attractive and emit a strong aroma.

It is believed that Malaysian sailors helped spread the flowering vine. They transported not only cargo, but also useful and beautiful plants, among them was Hoya.

Hoya was first described in the 17th century by the Dutch missionary Guernius. He talked about a plant with succulent and smelly flowers.

However, then the hoya did not fall into the hands of scientists. This happened more than a hundred years later, partly thanks to the famous traveler James Cook. His ship landed on the northeastern coast of Australia. There, scientists Solender and Banks discovered an original plant with fleshy leaves and fragrant clusters of flowers that seemed to be made of wax. They brought the strange plant to Europe, marking the beginning of “hoyemania,” which continues to this day.

For a long time, the new tropical plant did without a generic name; it appeared only in the 18th century. Varieties of the flower were given the names of famous scientists, but the common name “hoya” immortalized the name of a simple English gardener, Thomas Hoy. He worked in the Duke of Northumberland's greenhouse and managed to tame many exotic plants. They say that the brilliant gardener intuitively guessed the whims of his green pupils.

IN indoor floriculture Over 200 species of hoya are now grown. These representatives of the tropics have adapted well to northern latitudes. But the study and selection of Hoya is not completed. And the best breeder is nature itself. Scientists are discovering new varieties of hoya in Borneo, the Philippines and in the 21st century.

Hoya is often called wax ivy. Its leaves and flowers seem to be covered with a waxy coating. And the long stems resemble ivy lashes. However, hoya has nothing to do with real ivy. Ivy, unlike its beautiful impostor, never blooms. The only thing that brings them together is the shape. These plants are vines and require support or a hanging planter to thrive.

Different types of hoya differ quite significantly from each other. But they all have common characteristics. These are long, well-leafed shoots with aerial roots. The leaves can be quite large (on average 10 cm), shiny and fleshy, or small (2.5 cm), matte and thin. The color is plain dark green or variegated, with contrasting spots, dots or a border.

The flowers are succulent, collected in inflorescences-umbrellas or balls, almost always resembling an asterisk. But its tips can be flat, strongly bent or concave. And the surface of the flower is glossy and smooth or fluffy. The shades of the inflorescences also vary. From classic white and pink to chocolate and burgundy. Almost all hoyas smell. Opinions about their aroma vary greatly. Some people find it pleasant, but others find it repulsive. Well-groomed hoya blooms for a long time, and sometimes several times a year.

Hoya, despite its exotic appearance, is not the most difficult plant to care for. At home, this flowering vine has been successfully grown for centuries. During this time, flower growers have accumulated vast experience. It is only important to take into account the characteristics of individual types of hoya. What is good for a plant with succulent leaves is not always suitable for a small-leaved variety. This applies to lighting, humidity and winter conditions. There are several subtleties associated with hoya flowering. But they are easy to do. So hoya can be recommended even to inexperienced gardeners.

Matilda, optimist, megalaster, Kerry, Bella and descriptions of other species

Those who have a hoya fall in love with this plant seriously and for a long time. They are adding new items to their collections. From the variety of hoyas, each gardener can choose the one that fascinates him. And almost everyone has their favorites. After all, hoya is a many-sided plant. Let's get acquainted with the most prominent representatives of this wonderful family.

Hoya Kerry is the most commercial variety. It is sold not only in flower shops, but also in souvenir shops. Rooted heart-shaped leaves in decorated pots appear on sale on the eve of Valentine's Day. They have become a symbol of living, unfading love.

• Hoya Kerry has been known in floriculture since the beginning of the 20th century. The plant received the name of its discoverer. Professor Kerry discovered a liana in the Thai tropics. Hoya Kerry has large (up to 15 cm) dense glossy leaves in the shape of a heart on 2-meter stems. Because of this, the plant was nicknamed Valentine or Hoya in Love. And the flowers of this variety are small, in inflorescences of 15–25 pieces, painted in the traditional pink and white color and can be yellow-lemon. The shade depends on the lighting and age of the plant.
• Kerry variegata is a variety with variegated foliage. Green heart leaves may have a white, yellowish or creamy center. Its boundaries are blurred, as if the paint was carelessly erased. Or the middle is green and the edges are colored. There are varieties with leaves on which strokes and spots are randomly scattered.
• Hoya carnosa is often called wax ivy. It has long grayish shoots and fleshy shiny leaves. They are medium in size (up to 10 cm), in the shape of a pointed oval, emerald in color, sometimes with barely noticeable lighter spots. The flowers, which have a pleasant scent, are pale pink glossy in the shape of a star, and in the middle there is a red corolla star. This variety has earned recognition from flower growers for its unpretentiousness in growing at home. In nature, Hoya carnosa is common in Japan, China, India, the Pacific Islands and Australia.
• Hoya beautiful (Bella) is native to Indonesia and India. This is a compact plant that is often grown as a hanging plant. It has matte small (2.5 cm) and thinner leaves compared to other varieties. The flowers are sometimes odorless, they have a classic structure for hoya: on a larger white star there is a small bright transparent red one.
• Hoya bogor is a liana with narrow, hard, slightly variegated leaves. Its inflorescences consist of flowers with a larger lower “star” with slightly bent blades wavy along the edge.
• Hoya red buds is a variety of vine with large (up to 14 cm) narrow leaves and fleecy inflorescences. The stars are covered with fine hair, up to 2 cm in size, the color is red-purple in the center and pink-gray towards the edge.
• Hoya Matilda is a vine with slightly pubescent shoots and leaves that are also variegated in color. The flowers, white and fluffy, are crowned in the center with a ruby-red star with a yellowish center. The inflorescences smell strongly, the aroma is similar to a tulip.
• Hoya optimist is distinguished by dense and silky foliage and unusually colored flowers. They are juicy and glossy, bright red along the edges, gradually turning yellow towards the center, and the corolla has the opposite color: the very center is ruby, the edges are yellow.
• Hoya megalaster is an unusual plant species. Large elliptical leaves are sparsely located on long, delicate stems. They are dark green with well-defined veins. But the most interesting thing is the flowers. They are wine-red, and the outer star, even in a fully open flower, is directed inward with its tips. So the pinkish underside is visible. The scent of Hoya Megalaster is reminiscent of a lily.
• Hoya retusa is a very tender plant, grown as a hanging plant. Thin and narrow leaves, like blades of grass, grow in cascades on long stems. The flowers are solitary, small, classic star-shaped and white in color.
• Hoya multiflora (multiflora) is not a vine, but a bushy plant common in southeast Asia. On an erect stem there are large thin leaves. Hoya blooms actively and vigorously. In inflorescences there are several dozen of non-typical shapes. They do not look like a star, but like spaceships or satellites with antennas strongly bent back. According to reviews from flower growers, this variety of hoya is undemanding and easy to care for.
• Hoya caudata is a vine with very large (palm-sized) fleecy and variegated leaves. There are white-green, yellow-red varieties. The flowers of this hoya have a traditional shape and color, but are shaggy. They are covered not just with villi, but with fluffy hairs.
• Hoya concave (lacunosa) is common in Malaysia. The leaves of this vine are small, diamond-shaped. The small flowers have a fluffy ball with a yellow center instead of a star. By all accounts, lacunose has a pleasant aroma, reminiscent of a good perfume.
• Hoya cystiantha is a vine that produces bell-shaped, lilac, pale pink or vanilla flowers. They have a pleasant citrus scent. This is a rather rare variety.

Photo: varieties of beautiful ivy

Hoya caudata Hoya bogor Kerry variegata Hoya concave (lacunosa) Hoya fleshy (carnosa) Hoya kerry Hoya matilda Hoya megalaster Hoya multiflora (multiflora) Hoya optimist Hoya red buttons Hoya retusa Hoya beautiful (bella) Hoya cystiantha

Video: different types of hoya

Hoya is an inhabitant of the tropics. And at home, she retained the habits acquired in nature. She still strives for the sun, prefers moist rather than dry air and fairly high temperatures. Just about winter temperature for hoya, flower growers often disagree. The traditional point of view is that hoya prefers a cool winter, + 12–16 0 C. But practitioners assure: hoya spends the winter well at moderate 18–20 degrees and even higher. Most likely, both are right. Some varieties, such as carnosa with succulent leaves, will benefit from cool temperatures. Only then should the humidity be low. And the tender Hoya Bella wants to live warm even in winter. So when creating a climate for your hoya, consider natural conditions, to which she was accustomed.

Table: conditions for hoya

Season	Lighting	Humidity	Temperature
Spring	The bright, best place is on the western and eastern window sills, on the southern ones a little shading is required. The variegated forms need the most light. Monochromatic varieties grow well in partial shade, but then there may be problems with flowering.	High, 60–70 or more. Humidify the air in all available ways (double pot, tray with expanded clay or moss, indoor fountains, electric humidifiers). Spray leaves and stems more often. During flowering, stop spraying so that the buds and flowers do not fade.	Moderate, not less than +18 0 C. Protect from drafts.
Summer	Bright, diffused. Protect from midday sun.		Moderate, elevated is acceptable, optimally +20–25 degrees. Can be posted on warm balcony or veranda. You should not take it out into the fresh air. Stems can be damaged by wind. And you don’t need to touch the plant that has buds. Hoya does not like changing places at this time.
Autumn
Winter	Bright, with a short daylight hours, it needs artificial lighting. If there is enough light it will bloom in winter.	If the temperature is low, it does not need moisturizing. The warmer the room, the higher the humidity should be. Spray the plant, humidify the air in other ways.	For varieties with succulent leaves, cool, 12–16 0 C. For more delicate ones (bella) – moderate +18–20. When the temperature drops, it may lose its leaves.

Flower growers advise bathing hoya twice a year, before and after flowering. Larger capacity fill with warm (about 40 degrees) water. The plant is dipped together with the pot and kept in water for up to 40 minutes. As they say, after taking a bath, hoya blooms better, and the autumn procedure hardens the plant.

Transfer

Young hoyas are usually replanted every year. But the plant does not like changing the pot too much. Therefore, replant adult 3-4 year old specimens only when the need is ripe. The roots entwined the entire ground and grew into the drainage holes, and the flower stopped developing.

In nature, Hoya leads the lifestyle of an epiphyte or semi-epiphyte, so at home it needs a very airy and porous soil substrate. So that the roots receive enough air and do not suffer from stagnant moisture. Soil options for Hoya:

• ready-made soil for orchids or succulents, you can add loosening components;
• equal parts peat, perlite, coconut fiber and tree bark;
• one part each of soil for succulents, perlite, chopped sphagnum and pine bark and half part vermiculite with the addition of charcoal;
• into two parts of leaf soil, part of turf, peat, sand and humus;
• in equal parts a mixture of peat soil, perlite, crushed bark and coconut fiber.

Both plastic and ceramic pots. But in favor of ceramics are good evaporation and high stability. Hoya is a rather weighty plant and often knocks over the pot. For long and high-quality flowering, the container needs to be tight, but for greenery to grow, it needs to be more spacious.

How to transplant hoya?

1. Disinfect all components of the planting substrate. Boil the bark and chop it. Calcine, steam or treat the rest with a fungicide.
2. Place drainage (fine expanded clay, pebbles, brick chips) at the bottom of the pot with holes. There is some soil on top.
3. Remove the hoya from the old container without disturbing the earthen ball. Install it in a new pot. If the support for the vine is in a pot, place it immediately.
4. Sprinkle the substrate between the wall of the pot and the earthen ball, compacting it a little. Pay attention to strengthening the support.
5. Water the plant, you can spray it, place it in diffused light or partial shade.

Support chores

Most types of hoya grow quite quickly. At first, its stems are elastic, but over time they become brittle. They are easy to damage. Therefore, from a young age, Hoya needs reliable support.

Ideally, it should be installed during planting or replanting the plant directly in the pot. To do this, you can use arches made of wicker or gratings made of bamboo and other materials.

External supports, twine stretched nearby, or a net are also suitable, wooden grate on the wall. If you don’t prepare something to cling to, the hoya will find support on its own. Most likely, these will be nearby plants.

Sometimes, especially at first, you will have to tie or twist the stems around the support yourself. Many gardeners complain that hoya does not always gratefully accept such care. It tries to climb in the other direction or the shoots grow worse. When tying up hoya stems, be careful, especially when bending the shoots. They are very fragile.

Hoya lovers have noticed that the plant, which itself wraps around the support, makes turns counterclockwise. This trick can be used. Wrap the stems in this direction to help them adapt better.

Some types of hoya - bella and multiflora - do not need support at all. The first is grown as an ampelous form, and the second is an upright bush. True, during flowering it is better for him to lean on something.

Video: transplanting hoya

Hoya: care at home

Hoya is considered easy to grow. But still, the flowering vine has some requirements. One of them is cleanliness, this is especially important for forms with fleshy leaves. They should be wiped with a damp cloth so that the plant can breathe better, increase humidity and decorativeness. For small-leaved forms, a warm shower will be useful. Just when rinsing the Hoya, cover the soil with a film so as not to over-moisten it.

Watering and fertilizing

When watering your hoya, follow the rule: underwatering is better than overwatering. Hoya can survive short-term drought, but waterlogging of the soil almost always leads to disease or even death of the plant.

Between waterings, the top layer of soil must dry out so that air can penetrate to the roots. In the summer, water as soon as you notice it, most likely 2-3 times a week. In winter, take a break: 2-3 days of dryness will be appropriate, especially in cool air. If the hoya is kept warm, you need to water it a little more. And be sure to drain the water from the pan. Excess moisture at the roots will not lead to anything good.

For irrigation, prepare soft (melt, filtered, aquarium, settled) water. Hoya does not like cold moisture. Irrigation water should be slightly warmer than the room temperature.

Flower growers advise using peat to soften water. Take a piece of about 100 grams, wrap it in gauze and immerse it in a container of water (about 2 liters). After a day, take out the peat, the water for irrigation is ready.

When the hoya is actively growing and blooming, it needs to be fed twice a month. But you shouldn’t be overzealous with nutrition. Some nutritional deficiency is healthier than excess. When using mineral complexes (by the way, fertilizers for flowering succulents are suitable for hoya), dilute them a little more than in the instructions. Pour the nutrient solution only onto moist soil to prevent burning the roots.

Flowering time

Some varieties of hoya bloom within a year after rooting, others will take 3 years. Some species bloom 2–3 times a year, blooming even in autumn and winter. But sometimes time passes, but there are no flowers. What's the matter?

The most important condition for full flowering of hoya is bright and sufficiently long lighting. If the vine grows in partial shade, it will do well, but you will not see flowers. Try moving it to a brighter place, but it’s better to place a backlight nearby. Hoya doesn't take well to moving. It takes a long, and sometimes painful, time to settle into a new place.

Do not touch the hoya if buds appear on it. It cannot only be rearranged, but even rotated. The stress of change will cause the hoya to drop its flower buds.

Another reason why there is no flowering is that you removed old flower stalks last season. Hoya prefers to leave the wilted inflorescences on it. She will reset everything she needs on her own. Therefore, do not touch it after the end of flowering so that it blooms in a year.

Sometimes hoya delays flowering because the soil is too poor. Try feeding her. And pay attention to the container where the plant lives. If you planted the hoya in a large pot, it will grow roots and leaves and only after that will take up flowers.

Hoya blooming is a beautiful phenomenon and almost always fragrant. There is no clear opinion about its smell; some people like it, but others can’t stand it. But the aroma is strong and can cause illness or allergies in a person - this is an individual reaction. If you don't have one, blooming hoya can even remain in the bedroom. You should not believe superstitions about this flower. In the east, hoya is considered a plant that strengthens family ties and refreshes marital relationships. And Feng Shui masters give it a place in the bedroom.

Video: secrets of hoya flowering

Winter and backlight

There is an opinion that for development and high-quality flowering, hoya needs a cool (12–16 degrees) dormant period in winter. But, as practice has shown, this is not true for all types of tropical plants.

Succulent-like hoyas might welcome the winter chill. But then significantly limit watering and humidity. And heat-loving varieties (bella, retuza) prefer high temperatures all year round. They will get sick in the cold.

Many practicing gardeners claim that hoya does not need winter holidays. Of course, like other plants, it stops growing at this time. But if, using artificial lighting, you increase the duration of daylight to 14–16 hours, the hoya will also grow and sometimes bloom. Conventional incandescent lamps are not suitable for illumination; it is necessary to install simple fluorescent or special phytolamps (Flora, Reflex). Lighting is especially important for rooting cuttings in autumn and winter.

Is pruning necessary?

Hoya, growing as a vine on a support, does not need formative pruning. And sanitary involves removing dried stems and leaves. But sometimes the vine is reluctant to branch, then pinching the tops and light pruning will help the growth of side shoots. The procedure is carried out before or after flowering. But be careful: do not remove old flower stalks, so as not to deprive the hoya of future flowers.

Maintenance errors - table

Manifestation	Cause	Correction
Yellow spots on leaves.	Excess sun, burn.	In spring and summer, shade your hoya at midday. Too intense sun in the heat burns the leaves.
Hoya sheds its leaves.	Waterlogging of the soil, possibly in combination with low temperatures.	Follow the watering schedule and let the soil dry. The colder the room, the less moisture the flower requires.
The growth of the stems has become slower, the leaves are turning pale.	Nutrient deficiency.	Replant the Hoya in a new, more nutritious substrate or fertilize it regularly.
The leaves shrink and die over time.	The plant was overcooled. Another reason is frequent watering with cold water.	Move the plant to a warm place, water with water slightly above room temperature.
The tips and edges of the leaves dry out.	The air is too hot and dry.	Spray the plant (if it does not bloom), humidify the air. In winter, do not keep near heating devices.

Hoya diseases and pests

Table: who harms?

Manifestation	Who is harming?	What to do?
Hoya has stopped growing, spherical swellings are noticeable on the roots.	Root nematode.	Use a knife to remove the affected roots, place the remaining ones in a container with hot water, then sprinkle them charcoal. Treat with an insecticide (Phosfamide, Mercaptophos, Lindane). Prevention: before planting, be sure to sterilize the soil, drainage and pot.
Hard plaques Brown below the leaves and on the stems.	Shield.	Remove insects manually, then treat the plant with an insecticide solution. Repeat the procedure after 2 weeks. Treat until the pest is completely destroyed.
Lumps resembling white fluff on leaves and stems.	Mealybug.	Remove insects with a damp cloth and spray the plant with an insecticide solution.
Some of the shoots become soft, covered with spots, and rot.	Stem rot is a fungal disease.	The fungus multiplies very quickly and kills the plant. If it spreads strongly, it is not treated, but destroyed so as not to infect others. In the initial stage, try to help, remove the affected tissue, sprinkle these areas with activated carbon. Prevention: do not over-moisten the soil, especially at low temperatures, ventilate the room.
The leaves lighten, turn yellow, and white spots appear on them.	This is chlorosis. The process of photosynthesis is disrupted. Infectious chlorosis is caused by viruses and fungi.	Treat the plant with phytoferm several times with a break of 3-4 days. Feed the hoya; as a rule, weakened plants get sick. To prevent chlorosis, spray the leaves with iron chelate (antichlorosine).

Reproduction

Most often, hoya is propagated by cuttings - this is the simplest and most effective method. Propagation by seeds is extremely rare. Hoya does not set fruit in captivity. And you can’t even find them on sale; they have a very short shelf life.

Cuttings

1. In the spring, cut cuttings (10 cm) of hoya from the tops of last year's shoots. Each one should have at least 2 internodes, and preferably 3–4.
2. Treat the cut of the cutting with a phytohormone (Epin, Zircon, others).
3. Fill the container with a mixture of peat and sand and moisten it.
4. Deepen the cuttings, carefully compact the substrate, leaving no voids.
5. Cover the seedlings with film, a bag or a jar.
6. Place in a bright and warm (18–24 0 C) place.
7. Moisten and ventilate the plantings regularly.
8. When new leaves begin to appear, transplant the cuttings into small (7–10 cm) pots with hoya soil.

Video: rooting hoya cuttings in different soils

Hoya is an evergreen tropical vine belonging to the Swallow family. IN wildlife found in the southern and eastern regions of Asia, as well as in Australia and the Polynesian islands. More than 200 species of this plant have been well studied and described.

Hoya develops well in normal indoor conditions with good lighting and average temperature readings. For a long time it pleases with the beauty of flowering and sweet fragrance. It has a beneficial effect on the home atmosphere, purifying the air from harmful impurities.

Hoya types and varieties photos

- an evergreen vine, in nature reaching up to 10 m. Covered with long green leaves with silvery spots. It has inflorescences in the form of a hemisphere, consisting of 20 pink-cream flowers similar to double five-pointed stars. Gives off a strong honey smell. Needs light, loose soil and timely watering.

– this plant has long stems and leaves that look like green hearts. Produces hemispherical inflorescences of 15 star-shaped flowers. The coloring can be white, yellow, pink, and in the center there is a red corolla. When growing this species, you need to provide it with a bright place and a room temperature of + 25 °C.

- an evergreen thin vine from which many shoots grow. The leaves are diamond-shaped and elongated. The inflorescences consist of seven star-shaped flowers united into an umbrella. This plant does not like large pots. He is often put in small hanging planters. Needs light and watering three times a week. The water temperature should be several degrees above room temperature.

- consists of climbing stems one and a half millimeters thick. Overgrown with fleshy leaves with silver inclusions. It has umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 15 double white flowers. It emits a pungent odor reminiscent of tulips. The plant can withstand temperatures down to +10 °C. Needs watering warm water after the top soil has dried.

- a climbing vine with fleshy leaves on which silvery blotches appear. It has umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 20 double flowers with five edges. The smell of flowers is pleasant and sweet. The plant is grown in hanging pots with loose soil. Loves a lot of light, so it is recommended to place it next to a window.

Branched species with dense vegetation. The foliage is green, elongated, and turns red in sunlight. It blooms with umbrella inflorescences of golden color. The flowers are small in the form of five-pointed stars - from 30 to 50 of them can grow in one umbrella. They emit a faint scent of perfume. Loves frequent watering and moist air.

- consists of branched vines that are overgrown with dense foliage. All leaves have a curved, twisted shape and variegated colors with a glossy sheen. The flowers are white and pink, united in inflorescences in the form of a hemisphere. Grows in any soil and does not require regular watering. Blooms well in tight pots.

– this variety has twining vines of a dark purple hue with dense vegetation. The leaves in the center may be yellow or reddish color, and at the edges in green. The inflorescences after the buds open resemble a hemisphere. Flowers lilac color with a dark rim. The inflorescences bloom and delight with beauty throughout the year.

Plants for growing in hanging pots. It consists of many thin vines on which nodes of long and narrow leaves grow. It produces inflorescences of two or three white flowers, but more often the buds are single. They emit a very weak and almost imperceptible odor. Likes the soil to be always moist, but not soggy.

A plant with long, pointed leaves that are dotted with silvery patches. These spots turn red in direct sunlight. It has inflorescences consisting of 20 flowers. They come in red and white or pink. They emit a faint but sweet odor.

– consists of thin vines on which variegated leaves grow round shape. Produces inflorescences of 20-30 light pink flowers. The central part of the flowers is decorated with dark purple corollas, from which nectar is released. Exudes a sweet honey smell.

- a plant with large leaves and a rigid, straight stem. It grows quickly and blooms regularly. It has inflorescences of 15 white-yellow flowers of unusual shape. They resemble arrow tips or small rockets. Grows well in large pots with a drainage layer. Prefers to be in a semi-shaded place.

- a plant with long and fleshy leaves, the surface of which is painted with silver spots. It produces umbellate inflorescences consisting of 30 flowers. There are varieties with gray-black and pink buds. The plant develops well at temperatures no higher than +25 °C. It is necessary to water after the soil dries out.

– designed for hanging pots. Consists of long hanging vines that are covered with narrow leaves. Produces inflorescences of 12 soft white flowers. Grows well in universal soil with added peat. The plant is moisture-loving, so it needs to be watered often.

A plant with a compact form and long leaves. Produces inflorescences of 25 fluffy flowers. The color of the buds is red with a dark corolla from which nectar drips. Grows quickly in lighted areas with abundant watering. Loves loose soils with drainage.

A variety with flexible and branched vines that are covered with dense foliage. These leaves have a pleasant color to the eye. They are green in the central part and yellow-cream along the edges. Inflorescences consisting of 25 light pink flowers grow on the stems. The plant loves loose soil, moderate watering and good lighting.

– has thin and curly stems with long and fleshy leaves. It produces umbrella-shaped inflorescences, which consist of 10-30 flowers. The color of the petals varies from white-cream to light pink. They bloom for ten days, then new buds appear in their place. It develops well at an air temperature of +25 °C. Loves regular watering, but without waterlogging.

- a plant with thin vines and large decorative leaves. Each sheet has a unique design. The glossy surface is mottled or dotted with yellow-green spots. The inflorescences are umbellate, consisting of 10-25 white-violet flowers. Prefers to grow at +18 °C, but adapts well to higher temperatures.

A plant with powerful vines and fleshy leaves that have a decorative color. Their surface is yellow-green, and the edges are dark green and vice versa. Under direct rays of the sun they acquire purple shade. After the buds open, the inflorescences take the shape of a hemisphere and consist of 25-35 white flowers.

– consists of thin hanging vines and long leaves with a variegated surface. When exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves turn pink. The flowers bloom double with a pink tint and a yellow-violet corolla. They are united in umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 15-20 buds. Likes to be in bright light in the morning. You need to water 2-3 times a week.

- a plant with strong stems on which large and fleshy leaves grow. They are oval and have patterns on the surface that resemble the pattern of a tortoise shell. It produces umbellate inflorescences consisting of 20 white flowers. Needs light in the morning and frequent watering. The content temperature can vary from +18 °C to +35 °C.

- consists of thin weaving vines with fleshy leaves. The leaves have ribbed edges and bumps on the surface and are variegated in color. The plant produces umbrella-shaped inflorescences, which consist of 6-15 white flowers. Loves frequent watering and moderate lighting without direct sunlight.

Hoya care at home

The flower is easy to grow at home. To do this, you need to provide the plant with a small hanging pot and standard care. Hoya, like any other houseplant, needs good lighting, timely watering and the right temperature.

Hoya light-loving plant, so it needs to be placed in a bright place. This can be a well-lit room or a window sill on the east or west side. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cause the foliage to turn yellow and fall off.

Due to its tropical origin, the flower loves warmth. In winter and summer ideal condition for plant development the temperature is from +15 °C to + 25 °C. But the flower can easily adapt to lower or higher heat readings.

Stapelia is also a member of the Lastovneve family. It can be grown with care at home without much hassle if all the rules of agricultural technology are followed. You can find all the necessary recommendations for growing and caring for this wonderful plant in this article.

Watering Hoya

Watering needs to be given special attention. Try to moisten the soil in a timely manner, avoiding waterlogging or drying out.

If moisture has accumulated on the tray cup, remove it. In summer, it is recommended to water twice a week, and in winter once. For watering, use warm and settled water.

Soil for hoya

Hoya can develop in any soil, but in fertile soil this process will go faster. Standard soil mixtures for indoor plants or palm trees sold in stores are suitable.

If you want to prepare the soil yourself, use leaf soil, turf, humus and sand. Mix these ingredients well in a ratio of 3:2:2:1. You can also add tree bark to the soil, which will provide good breathability.

Hoya transplant at home

The flower needs to be replanted every 3 years. This procedure is carried out in April. To transplant a plant from one pot to another, use the transfer method. After this, you just need to add soil.

If you plan to completely replace the soil, clean root system from the old land. Remove dried or rotten roots. Then place the flower in a new pot, carefully covering it with soil.

Hoya pot

Most often, hanging pots are chosen for planting or replanting. They can be plastic, ceramic or wicker.

If you want your plant to grow well, choose spacious pots. To obtain abundant flowering, use small pots.

Fertilizers for hoya

In order for Hoya to develop quickly and bloom profusely, it needs to be fed regularly. Do this every month, starting in the spring and ending in the fall. In winter, do not fertilize.

Use Osmokot long-acting fertilizers as top dressing - once a month. Also spray the plant with liquid humus, which contains a high content of microelements - twice a month.

Hoya pruning

Hoya should not be cut or broken off, especially the flower stalks - the stems on which the inflorescences appear.

Even after the flowering period has ended, they do not need to be removed, because old flower stalks can still produce new inflorescences. Ordinary shoots are also not broken off, but supports are placed for them so that they weave along them.

Hoya bloom

The plant produces flowers two years after rooting or earlier. Flowering begins in June and ends in July, then repeats in the fall. The flowers look like five-pointed, fluffy stars with a corolla. They form inflorescences resembling an umbrella or a hemisphere.

The buds come in different shades: white, red, gray, pink, yellow, and mixed. They secrete nectar, which has a honey smell. If there are several species in the room, then it is filled with a pleasant fragrance.

Hoya in winter

In winter, hoya needs to provide a lower temperature in the room than in summer. Recommended maintenance temperature is no more than +15 °C.

If the plant is kept warm in winter, few inflorescences will appear in summer.

Hoya propagation by seeds

The seed must be no older than one year. Dry the purchased seeds and plant them in loose soil. To ensure that the soil absorbs moisture well, mix pieces of artificial fabric - felt or burlap - into it. The seedlings will sprout in seven days.

During this period, the soil should not be allowed to become waterlogged or dry out. Seedlings should be kept in a warm room with good lighting. After three months, when the sprouts have become stronger, they can be transplanted into pots.

Hoya propagation by cuttings

Cut short cuttings, which should contain 2-3 leaves and several nodes. Place them in a jar, wrapped in foil to keep out the light. Fill with water at a temperature of +22 °C to +25 °C.

Place the cuttings in a shaded and warm place. To create greenhouse conditions, the cuttings can be covered with foil. In this state they will stand for two weeks and send out roots from the nodes. Then transplant them into pots with soil.

Hoya propagation by leaf

This is the longest and most difficult way to grow a flower. Not all leaves, having sprung roots, become a full-fledged plant. For this method you will need a root growth stimulator, chemical hormones and light, loose soil.

Soak the leaf stalk with the stimulant and plant it in a pot with moist soil at an angle of 45°. In a month the roots will begin to sprout. During this period, the leaf needs to be given a hormone for the development of shoots - heteroauxin. Apply a few drops to the base of the stem and within a week a shoot will appear.

Hoya diseases

Hoya doesn't bloom – the cause of this frequent phenomenon may be a lack of light, high indoor air temperature during wintering, big size pot, frequent watering, especially in winter.

To make the plant bloom, place it near a window or provide artificial lighting. In winter, move the flower to a cool room where the temperature is no higher than +15 °C. Transplant the hoya into a small pot with a diameter of no more than 20 cm. After watering, allow the soil to dry completely.

The leaves are turning yellow – this is affected by a lack or excess of illumination. Some varieties are adversely affected by direct sunlight, which burns the foliage. Soil dampness also affects the yellowing of leaves.

The problem can be solved by moving the flower to a shaded place on the floor. If your variety loves a lot of light, place it in a bright room. In summer, water the plant no more than twice a week, and in winter once.

– if new leaves or shoots do not appear on your flower for a long time, check and eliminate following reasons: the room is too dark, there is not enough nitrogen fertilizing, very cramped potty, flower stalks are trimmed.

You need to feed the flower twice a month with fertilizers for indoor plants. For varieties with fleshy leaves, you need to reduce the dose by half. Also transplant the hoya into a larger pot and hang it in a bright place near an east or west window.

soft leaves

Excess moisture and fertilizers. Both of these factors have a detrimental effect on the root system. A lot of fertilizers burn the roots, and dampness suffocates the roots and they rot. Without roots, the plant stops receiving moisture and nutrients. As a result, the leaves become dehydrated, becoming like a rag.

To solve this problem, reduce the fertilizing dose by half or temporarily stop fertilizing. Also monitor the soil moisture - it should always dry out after the next watering.

Spots on leaves – an infectious disease caused by fungi or viruses. Fungal stains are easy to distinguish from viral ones. To do this you need to rub the sheet. If the stain is erased, it means it was a fungal coating. If you can see by eye that the stain has eaten into the leaf, it means that this is viral necrosis, due to which the cellular tissues of the leaf die.

These spots are the result of the activity of microorganisms that feed on cell sap. Therefore, you can kill them if you use antibiotics or fungicidal drugs.

Hoya pests

Shields - small insects that feed on plant sap. They stick to leaves or stems and resemble brown or red cocoons. As a result of the actions of pests, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the stems develop incorrectly. Insecticides will help cope with scale insects.

Medicinal properties of hoya

This flower not only decorates, but also heals. Calms the nervous system, elevates mood, relieves headaches, helps with skin diseases and heals purulent wounds. The leaves are used to treat all these diseases.

Headaches are treated by placing a leaf on the temple. Skin problems are solved by grinding the leaves into a paste, which is applied to the damaged area and wrapped in a bandage.

Side effects: The smell emitted by flowers can provoke severe headache. Therefore, people with chronic migraines should avoid this plant. The leaves also cause dermatitis in allergy sufferers.

Cooking recipes

Treatment of purulent wounds: chop three leaves of the plant and two cups of oatmeal. Then add water and stir until it becomes a paste. Lubricate the wounds with the ointment for ten minutes, then wash off. Repeat the procedure three times a day for two weeks.

Treatment of boils – chop a leaf of the plant and apply it to the inflamed area. Then wrap it with a bandage. Change the bandage twice a day. After the condition improves, you can reduce the number of dressings.