• they are durable;
• do not block sunlight for plants;
• easy to install;
• are inexpensive;
• when installed carefully, they look aesthetically pleasing;
• visually increase the area, since the fence turns out to be light and transparent.

Types of grids

Chainlink

Of course, talk about her protective functions there's almost no point. But nevertheless, such a fence protects against the penetration of small animals. In order for it to cope with this task as best as possible, it is worth using a fine-mesh chain-link: the size of the square “holes” in it is from 25 mm. True, the fence will be a bit heavy and not at all budget-friendly. Most often, to make the structure lighter, meshes with larger cells are used - from 50 mm.

Wicker mesh is made from:

• soft iron wire;
• galvanized wire;
• wire with polymer coating;
• plastic;
• of stainless steel.

Uncoated wire is cheap, but it rusts quickly, so this mesh is usually used as temporary fencing. To extend its life, you can paint it, but you will have to do this regularly.

Galvanized material or braided with PVC casing lasts 15 years or longer. The latter option is especially good for regions with an environment that is aggressive for unprotected metal: for example, with acidic precipitation or near the sea. In addition, the PVC-coated mesh looks more beautiful than usual, as it happens different colors- white, yellow, green, blue, burgundy, red.

Fences from plastic mesh they do it extremely rarely, although this does happen. More often, non-permanent pens for animals are built from this material on a site or used for zoning a vegetable garden.

Photo: Instagram north.western.packing.center

Welded mesh

It is stronger and stiffer than chain-link, requires fewer supports for installation, looks more stylish, but also costs more.

Welded mesh also comes untreated, but is protected from corrosion: galvanized, or polymer-coated, or two in one - galvanized plus polymer. Sold in rolls and in separate sections.

From welded mesh make popular in Lately 3D fences. They consist of metal rods, onto which several layers of polymer, nanoceramics, and zinc are successively applied to protect them from damage and rust. Manufacturers promise that such fences will last about 60 years.

How to make a mesh fence yourself

First of all, you need to decide how to install the fence. There are two options:

1. stretch the rolled mesh around the perimeter of the site;
2. assemble a fence from separate sections.

The second method is more expensive and requires more effort, but it is more reliable and aesthetically pleasing than the first. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Tension fence

The first step is to mark the area using wooden pegs and long twine, and then dig holes for the posts. For pillars you can take metal pipes with a diameter of 6–8 cm and install at the same distance.

The holes are made with a garden drill; their diameter is not much larger than the diameter of the pipe itself. The depth depends on the density of the soil, on average - within a meter, more is allowed.

Before installation, the pipes are cleaned of stains and rust, hooks for attaching the mesh are welded to them and painted. Then a small layer of sand or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the hole, the pillars are lowered, leveled and filled with concrete. To ensure that the supports stand level while the concrete hardens, they are secured with spacers.

If the soil is dense, you can simply drive the posts into the ground, being careful not to damage them. But on sandy soil the fence will quickly “move” to the side.

When the first stage is ready, you can start stretching the mesh. The roll of chain-link is not unwound, but is held vertically and hooked to hooks or screwed to the pipes with wire in several places.

But on the contrary, it is easier to first unwind a welded rolled mesh, lean it against the posts and then secure it.

Since welded mesh is a little more difficult to install, it is better not to work with material that has a polymer coating on your own: you need help, since the polymer is easy to damage, and then the mesh will begin to rust.

To prevent the fence from getting entangled in grass, it is recommended to leave a gap of 10–15 cm between the mesh and the ground, and to prevent it from sagging, attach a wire or thin pipe along the upper edge.

Sectional chain-link fence

The racks under it are mounted in the same way as described above. But instead of hooks, steel plates are welded to them.

Metal corners are welded into a square or rectangle, the size of which is equal to the distance between the pillars. WITH inside corners along their entire perimeter, you need to provide reinforcement rods: they will be needed to attach the mesh. The surface of the frame is polished. The mesh is cut to the size of the section, rods are threaded into the outer rows of cells, bent and welded to the corner. A finished section welded to steel plates on supports.

Sectional fence made of welded mesh

The installation technology is similar. Only for 3D fences supporting elements come included and have holes for fixing the mesh. It is better to fix the 3D fence to the posts with U-shaped clamps using a screwdriver. Theoretically, you can use staples, but this is undesirable: they damage protective layer.

Fence decor

Volumetric 3D fences themselves look stylish and do not need decoration. But the craftsmen are happy to “upgrade” the chain link. For example, they weave patterns from wire or ribbons.

If you don’t want the area to be visible from the street, you can decorate the fence with a photo grid. These are lattice sheets made of reinforced PVC, onto which manufacturers apply patterns with a pixelated effect to make the image look as naturalistic as possible. The photo grids are secured with a stapler. They are resistant to bad weather and sunlight, but cannot survive cleaning with abrasive agents.

For many years, owners of private houses, summer residents, builders and manufacturers have been using woven mesh as a material for installing fencing. This is easily explained by its availability, low cost and ease of installation. With a minimum set of tools, any site owner can install a chain-link fence with their own hands.

As a minimum possible set, you must purchase:

• mesh;
• material for load-bearing supports;
• metal rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
• knitting wire;
• cement, crushed stone, sand.

Depending on the type of fence design chosen, other materials may be required. So, to make a sectional fence you will need a 15x15 or 20x20 mm corner and a 20-40 mm metal strip. Performance welding work provides for the presence of electrodes.

Grid selection

Chain-link mesh is a transparent cellular fabric woven from wire spirals of a special shape. The cell size can range from 20 to 100 mm. The width of the canvas is from 1000 to 2000 mm. The material is supplied rolled in rolls of 8-16 meters.

Depending on the wire material and availability protective coating, On the market building materials You can purchase 4 types of chain-link mesh:

• made of plain steel wire without protective coating, “black”;
• galvanized;
• stainless steel;
• with a protective polymer coating.

"Black" designed for reinforcement during plastering and concrete works. It is not recommended to use it for fencing due to its fragility due to its strong susceptibility to corrosion.

Galvanized sheet is The most common material for installing a chain-link fence is due to its affordable cost and durability. Such a mesh will last at least 15 years even in the most unfavorable operating conditions.

Fence stainless wire will be practically eternal. However, the main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that when using stainless mesh, you will have to install poles from appropriate materials and most likely abandon welding joints. This will increase the final cost of the fence and complicate installation.

Chainlink with polymer protective coating Produced in a wide range of colors, it looks beautiful and is durable. The main problem is that at the intersection of individual wires, the polymer coating eventually wears down to the metal and an active corrosion process begins.

To install fences around a site, weaving with a wire thickness of 3-4 mm, a mesh size of 30-50 mm and a web width of 1200-1500 mm is most often used.

These dimensions of the chain-link fence for the fence will ensure the achievement of the most optimal price option. Cells less than 30 mm are used when constructing fences for poultry and small domestic animals, more than 50 mm are used mainly in industrial facilities, airports, agricultural lands and other large areas.

Choosing material for pillars

There are a few possible options from various materials. Among the most common are supports made from:

• wood;
• metal;
• concrete.

Wooden pillars- the cheapest, simplest, but very short-lived solution. In order to increase the service life of wooden poles, their lower part must be treated with a special impregnation and covered with a layer bitumen mastic. The rest of the surface must be impregnated with drying oil and painted.

Metal racks can be made from steel pipes square, rectangular or round section, as well as from an equal-angle corner. Other types of shaped metal products are more expensive, their use will no longer be economically justified.

Concrete supports They are durable and reliable, but they complicate the process of securing the mesh, and installing such poles is quite difficult.

The best and most common option today is the installation of metal poles from a rectangular profile pipe with a cross-section of 25x40 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. They perfectly hold a lightweight, wind-permeable fence and, with a protective coating against corrosion, can last for decades.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Determination of quantity necessary materials To build a chain-link fence, you should start by drawing a diagram of the future fence on the plan of the fenced area. The recommended distance between pillars is 2.5-3.5 meters.

Reducing the pitch will increase the number of pillars and increase costs. Large distances between the supports will not allow for high-quality tension of the mesh and will greatly complicate the installation process.

On the drawn diagram, mark all the installation locations of the pillars and, based on this, determine their total number. By multiplying the number of supports by their height, taking into account the underground part, you will get the total length of the pipe to be used as pillars.

The length of the chain-link mesh will be equal to the length of the fence on the plan. The connection of individual panels during installation is not carried out overlapping, but by inserting connecting twisted wires, which will be discussed below.

An exception is the option of installing a sectional fence. In this case, the total length of the mesh can be reduced by 5-7%.

Calculation of the amount of cement, sand and crushed stone should be carried out depending on total number pillars and consumption of concrete mixture for concreting one support. The usual depth of pits is 400-500 mm, the average diameter is 300-350 mm. Accordingly, it turns out that installation of one pillar will require 0.05 m 3 of concrete. The ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone is defined as 1:3:4. Therefore, it is possible to determine the amount of building materials for concreting the pillars.

When installing a chain-link fence on heaving and weakly stable soils, the posts must be buried at least 800 mm. This will entail a doubling of the consumption of building materials and will add 400 mm to the height of all pillars.

The procedure for installing the fence

Like most construction work, the installation of the fence is carried out in several successive stages:

Territory preparation and marking

Before you stretch the chain-link mesh onto the fence, you should clear the strip along which it will be mounted. In addition, on preparatory stage The required materials and tools are supplied.

To mark the installation locations of poles on each straight line fencing, hammer in pegs at the mounting points of the two outer supports. After this, pull the cord between them and, measuring the required distance, mark with pegs the installation locations of the remaining pillars.

Digging holes, installing and concreting pillars

Digging holes for installing poles can be done using conventional bayonet shovel, but it is much more convenient to use a special hole drill. It can be manual or mechanically driven. This will be especially relevant when large quantities installed poles.

The diameter of the hole must be no less than the cross-sectional dimensions of the pipe with an addition of 100-150 mm in each direction. The depth of the excavated holes is 400-500 mm for ordinary stable soils or 800-1000 mm for heaving, heavily moistened and other unstable soils.

The procedure for installing the pillars is similar to marking. On each straight section of the fence, the two outer supports are first installed. After the concrete has hardened, you need to pull a cord between them and install all the other pillars along it, be sure to check the verticality using building level. Concrete mix for filling pits with installed supports, it is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 3: 4.

General procedure fence installations.

Mesh installation

As mentioned above, the design of a chain-link fence can be different. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages, usually associated with the level of reliability of the fence and ease of installation.

Tension method

The simplest method involves attaching the mesh to installed supports without using additional elements and fasteners. To do this, roll out the mesh on the ground to a distance of about one and a half spans between the posts. Bend the edges of the wire spirals with pliers if this has not been done by the material manufacturer. This will prevent possible injuries during work and improve appearance fencing.

The mesh laid out on the ground must be lifted and secured to the posts using wire or clamps. You will need an assistant or two to complete the job. It is almost impossible to ensure the tension of the mesh while working alone.

Strengthening the structure with lags

To more securely fasten the mesh and prevent possible sagging over time, you can weld horizontal logs from a thin profile pipe or even a metal rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm to the installed racks.

If you use a rod, before welding it can be passed through the cells of the mesh, which then does not need to be tied. If used profile pipe, then the fence is fixed using plastic self-clamping clamps.

The presence of logs will not only strengthen the structure, but also place various decorations on the surface of the mesh for finalization fence In addition, the logs will pull the entire system into a single whole, i.e. you do not need to install special slopes to stabilize the corner posts.

Sectional fence

This design is a fence in which rectangular sections welded from a corner are fixed between installed posts, inside which a chain-link mesh is stretched.

It is somewhat more difficult to make, but it has whole line advantages over simple tension systems. To install a sectional chain-link fence:

1. on a flat, hard surface, draw a rectangle corresponding to the section configuration;
2. place a corner on the line and weld the frame;
3. inside the corner shelves, in increments of 150-200 mm, weld small pins made of wire or rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
4. lay the mesh inside the section and pass its edges through the pins;
5. bend the pins with a hammer, fixing the position of the mesh;
6. the sections are secured to the supports by welding lengths of steel strip to the post and frame.

After installation is completed, all unpainted surfaces must be covered with a layer of paint.

Fence decoration options

A mesh fence can serve not only as a fence for a site, but also as its decoration. For this purpose the most various ways and materials. One of the most simple options- plant climbing plants along the entire fence line. As the bindweed grows, it will fill the entire area, creating a beautiful hedge.

As special materials For decoration, you can use colored twine or polymer ribbons, using them to create a variety of colored patterns. Simple, although not very spectacular option, — use of a camouflage net. But here it should be taken into account that its elements fade over time in the sun and become covered with a persistent coating of dust.

Video on the topic

Did you know that installing a stone, slate or metal fence between neighboring summer cottages is prohibited? The fact is that the deaf high fences shade a lot of space, preventing the penetration of light. Considering the dimensions summer cottages, 6-8 acres, where every meter counts, all plants planted along such fences will get sick and wither. Therefore, complaints from neighbors are inevitable. What to do? A good option is to equip a fence from a chain-link mesh. It will not interfere with the penetration of sunlight and the movement of air masses. Such fences are popular not only among summer residents, but are also used to fence technical areas, sports fields, lakes and other bodies of water, chicken coops and other objects.

Rabitz got its name in honor of the mason Karl Rabitz, who received a patent for its invention at the end of the 19th century. True, then it was used for plastering walls. Chain-link mesh is a low-carbon steel wire that is woven into a kind of fabric. Spirals of wire are screwed into each other using a special machine, which not only “knits” the mesh, but also immediately rolls it into rolls.

The price of a chain-link fence is much lower than that of fences made of other materials, which is an undeniable advantage. Any summer resident or villager can easily purchase a mesh in any construction supermarket, store or market; in addition, he will need posts to secure the mesh and reinforcing rods, cable or thick wire 4 - 6 mm in diameter.

Types of mesh

Today there are three types of chain-link mesh on the market, which differ in the material of manufacture:

• Non-galvanized made of black wire. Unpainted mesh Chain-link made of ferrous metal will not last long, no more than 3 years. Moreover, just three to four days after its installation, rust will begin to appear. As a temporary option, such a mesh can be purchased with the expectation that later a fence made of a different material will be installed in its place or removed altogether. Otherwise, the ferrous metal mesh must be painted and the paint layer renewed every 4 to 5 years.

• Galvanized Chain-link mesh does not corrode. However, it is not much more expensive than its ferrous metal counterpart. That is why it is universally popular.

• Plasticized. This is a mesh made of metal wire, coated on top with a protective anti-corrosion polymer. It looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing than previous types and is not afraid of moisture. Such nets appeared on our market relatively recently and have already begun to conquer the summer cottages of our compatriots.

In addition to the material used, the chain-link mesh may differ in the shape of the cells and their size. The shape, rectangular, diamond-shaped or other, does not really matter. But the cell size is extremely important. It can be from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller it is, the smaller mesh transmits light, is more durable and monolithic, but also expensive. Mesh with 60mm mesh is not suitable for fencing a chicken coop as the mesh is large enough for chickens to fit through. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a Chainlink mesh based on what it will be used for. To fence a summer cottage so that large animals and people cannot enter, use a mesh with cells of 40 - 50 mm. This is quite enough.

The cost of a chain-link fence depends on several parameters: the material of the mesh, the size of the mesh, the thickness of the wire in the mesh and the method of its fastening.

Non-galvanized chain-link mesh with dimensions 50*2.0*10 costs about 28 USD. per roll 10 m. In these sizes, 50 is the cell size, 2.0 is the wire thickness. By the way, it can be from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. Accordingly, the thinner the mesh, the cheaper and lighter it is, but less strong and durable.

Galvanized mesh Chain-link 50*2.0*10 costs 32 USD. for 10 m. Agree, the difference is not that big.

Plasticized mesh Chainlink 50*2.0*10 costs 48 USD. for 10 m. This is somewhat more expensive than the previous options; it will be expensive for a temporary fence, but just right for a permanent fence.

How to make a fence from chain-link mesh

There are two ways to construct a chain-link fence:

• Pull between the pillars;
• Make sections from the corner into which to secure the mesh fragments.

The first method is much easier and cheaper, but less aesthetically pleasing and somewhat practical.

To manufacture the sections, additional considerable costs will be required for a metal corner, the cost of which may exceed the cost of the mesh. A sectional fence will be more beautiful, stronger, and you can use it to dry something or just hang it.

For both methods you will need poles on which the mesh will be attached.

What types of chain-link fences are there: photos - examples

Chainlink fence posts

Wooden pillars- easy available material in wooded areas, but short-lived. It only makes sense to purchase wooden poles or beams if they are much cheaper than metal ones, or if you are installing a temporary fence. There are situations when wooden building materials remain after the construction of a house, for example, a roof. I don't want to endure it extra costs, if there is unattended material.

For arranging fence posts wooden beams must be cleared of bark. They are then cut to the required length. Most often, deepening is carried out 10 - 15 cm below the soil freezing level. So it turns out that the length of the beam will be about 3 m. The entire underground part of the tree must be treated with waterproofing mastic. Fortunately, now the market offers many options for mastics that do not require heating or any preparation, you just spread it on and that’s it. The rest of the beams must be painted, otherwise they will rot within six months to a year after installation. The chain-link mesh is secured to the tree using nails. From modern materials You can offer clamps, but they will not fit very organically into the overall look.

Metal poles are more preferable because they are more durable and reliable. Most often, round or square pipes with a diameter of 60 - 120 mm are used. The section thickness must be at least 2 mm. To reduce the cost of building a chain-link fence, pipes can be purchased at your nearest scrap metal purchase. Sometimes you can pick it up there a good option water pipes, which have lost their tightness, but are not affected by rust. They can no longer be used for water supply, and for the fence their tightness does not matter at all. Recently, poles have appeared on sale, ready to be used for building a fence. They are painted and have welded hooks. Such pipes will cost a little more, but many associated worries are eliminated.

Can also be used concrete or asbestos cement pillars, if they are available, but you can attach the mesh to them only with clamps or using a cable, weaving it into the mesh and braiding the post.

Do-it-yourself tension fence made of mesh Chainlink

One of the main advantages of mesh fences is the ease of installation, which can be successfully completed by two people without having serious construction skills. As an example, consider the construction tension fence made from chain-link mesh using metal posts. Mesh width - 2 m.

Marking the area for the fence

First of all, we install temporary pegs in the corners of the site and stretch a construction thread or cord between them. We measure the length of the cord - this will be the length of the Chainlink mesh, which should be purchased with a margin of 1 - 2 meters, just in case.

Now you need to mark the places for installing the pillars. The most optimal distance between the pillars is 2 - 2.5 m, no more, since the chain-link mesh is a bending material.

To count the quantity required pillars, divide the length of each side of the plot by 2.5. For example, the length is 47 m. This value is not evenly divisible by 2 or 2.5. When divided by 2.5, we get 18.8. We have two options. The first is to install 19 pillars at an equal distance from each other, 47/19 = 2.47 m. But it is almost impossible to calculate the location of the pillar with such accuracy. The second way is to install 18 pillars at a distance of 2.5 m, and make the distance between the last ones slightly smaller. In total, we need to purchase 19 metal pipes.

We make marks along a stretched line at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. We constantly make sure that they are on an even line.

Important! If the site has a significant slope, it will not be possible to build a fence from the Chainlink mesh, since it is poorly attached in an inclined position. The only way out of the situation is to terrace the area. In the place where there is a difference in heights, install a more powerful and longer pole, to which a section of the mesh will be attached on one side at one level, and on the other side at another. To do this, the mesh fabric will have to be divided. The second option is to equip a sectional fence.

Installation of pillars

In the places marked for the posts, we drill holes with a drill or dig with a shovel. Depth 1.2 - 1.5 m. To prevent the pillars from moving during the spring swelling of the soil, they must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil by 15 - 20 cm, i.e. to a depth of 0.8 - 1.2 m.

We will install the corner posts first, since they will have the greatest pressure, and even unevenly. Place a layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the well and compact it thoroughly. Then a layer of sand is also compacted.

Then we install the pipe, having previously treated the underground part with anti-corrosion mastic. Cooking cement mortar from one part sand and two parts cement. Mix, then add two parts of crushed stone and mix again, add water and mix again. It is important to ensure that the solution is not too liquid. Then pour the solution into the hole around the pipe.

Important! Be sure to use a plumb line to control the vertical position of the pillar.

We pierce the concrete with a bayonet shovel, shaking and compacting it. The second thing we install is a corner post on the opposite side. Then all the other pillars follow the described technology, making sure to control the evenness of their location relative to each other. To do this, we have a thread stretched - we check it against it.

Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely hardened, i.e. a week later.

Sometimes metal pillars are not concreted, but simply a layer of rubble stone or savage is poured into the empty space of the pit, thoroughly compacted, then a layer of soil is filled in, also compacted, and then rubble stone is again placed on top. This method of fastening is also good; the pillars are firmly fixed in adjacent planes. IN last layer stone, you can add a little concrete, this will increase the strength of the structure.

Tensioning the chain-link mesh and securing it to poles

When the concrete has dried, we weld hooks onto the posts onto which we will attach the Chainlink mesh. To do this, you can use nails, screws, thick wire, pieces of rod or other improvised material that can be bent into a hook.

The next stage of making a chain-link fence is stretching the mesh. First of all, straighten the roll. Then we install it near the first corner post. We secure the net by hanging it on hooks. For greater strength, thread a thick wire or reinforcing rod with a cross-section of 3 - 4 mm into the first row of mesh cells (in a vertical position). After hanging the mesh on the hooks, we weld this rod to the pipe. This will prevent the mesh from sagging and sagging.

We unwind the mesh one span to the nearest post. A little further from the junction of the mesh with the post, we thread a rod into it in a vertical position. Holding on to it, we will pull the net. If we simply pull it with our hands, the tension will be uneven. Together, one closer to the top edge, the other to the bottom, stretch the mesh. For convenience, you can invite a third participant in the process who will put the net on the hooks at this time.

Then we thread the rods, cable or wire into the mesh in horizontal plane at a distance of 5 - 20 cm from the top edge and also from the bottom. Sometimes it is advised to use 5 rods at an equal distance from each other. We weld them to the post. These rods will serve as a supporting support for the grid so that it does not sag over time.

We repeat the procedure for all other pillars, following the same algorithm: tension, fasten, stretch the rod, weld.

Important! Do not go around corner posts with netting. It is better to secure it on a pole, disconnect it, secure the cells of the second part of the fabric and continue to stretch the mesh as a separate fabric. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the pillars.

One roll of mesh may not be enough to cover all the spans between the posts. There may be a situation where there is a meter of mesh left, and the next post is 2.5 m away. In this case, we remove the wire from the outermost row of the mesh, apply the ending web to a new roll and weave the wire between them. The result should be a continuous mesh without seams.

When the entire area is fenced, we bend the hooks on all the posts. If there is a piece of mesh left that is not needed, remove the wire, disconnecting the mesh, retreating one cell after securing it to the post.

The final touch is that the poles must be painted so that they do not corrode. If you do not plan to use welding, but secure the mesh with clamps or wire, then you can paint the posts before starting work on stretching the mesh.

We twist the upper tendrils of the wire from which the mesh is made together into one or two turns and wrap it down so that they do not injure anyone. Sometimes a rope or wire is threaded into the top row of cells and the wire tendrils are twisted around it. At this point, our chain-link fence is ready.

Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence

This type of fence made from a chain-link mesh differs from a tension fence by the presence of a frame of sections into which the mesh is mounted.

The first stages of work: marking and installing pillars are no different from installing a tension fence. The pillars should be a little stronger, since they will have to carry a significantly larger load.

We purchase a corner 30*4 or 40*5 mm. We use it to weld the frame for the fence sections. To do this, subtract 10 - 20 cm from the distance between the pillars, this will be the length of the frame. We also subtract 10 - 15 cm from the height of the pillar above the ground level, this will be the width of the frame. We weld the corners into a rectangle.

Then we unwind the roll of Chainlink mesh. If there is a need, we reduce its height dimensions to the required ones, cutting off the excess with a grinder. The second option is to make the section size 2 m (according to the width of the mesh) and unroll the mesh roll in a vertical position, separating the excess from below.

We thread a rod with a cross section of 4 - 5 mm into the outer row. We weld it to vertical rack frame from corners. Then we thread the rods into the top and bottom rows of the mesh, carefully stretch it and also weld the rods to the horizontal corners of the frame. We do the same with the last vertical post. As a result, we should end up with a section welded from a corner, inside which a Chain-link mesh is welded onto rods.

We weld metal strips 15 - 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm in cross-section in a horizontal position to the posts. We retreat 20 - 30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the pillar. We install a section between the pillars and weld it to the strips.

After all the welding work, the fence must be painted - everything is ready.

As you can see, making a fence from a chain-link mesh is not so difficult. It will take patience, two to three people and good mood. And if the description of the fence installation technology in words is not clear to you, we suggest watching a visual video.

How to make a fence from chain-link mesh: video - instructions

Chain-link mesh is an ideal material for constructing a lightweight fence or fence. The sun's rays pass through it perfectly, so it can often be found when fencing beds and gardens. It is also often used to divide the territories of neighboring areas. Installing a fence using chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to install such a fence, you just need to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can handle the construction itself.

Chainlink mesh - what kind of “fruit”

Chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive when compared with wood or corrugated sheeting. You can purchase such a net at any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of purchasing such material; it is very convenient to transport.

Hire specialized construction crews there is no need to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And you can do this in two ways: sectional installation and the material tension method.

The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• this is an inexpensive material.
• no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. Easy and simple to build.
• the area is not hidden from the sun's rays.
• The chain-link has a long service life.
• To decorate such a fence, you can let climbing plants grow along it.
• Having installed such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.

Everything would be fine, but such material also has disadvantages:

• hard to hide privacy behind the net. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
• no soundproofing properties.
• If you install non-galvanized mesh, it will rust quite quickly.

Types of mesh (table)

Type name	Description	Photo
Non-galvanized network	Most cheap material from those presented. Only temporary fences are made with it, because rust quickly appears on it, often even as soon as the first rains have passed. Its service life is no more than three to four years. Of course, such a mesh can be painted or coated with water-repellent agents. But this needs to be repeated with some frequency. And in the end it can cost much more than purchasing a galvanized type
Galvanized network	It is initially protected from moisture. Visually more attractive when compared with the previous chain link. She looks beautiful on sectional fence. Naturally, it costs a little more than the non-galvanized version. But the game is worth the trouble. This option is much more practical, because its service life is many times longer, and there is no need to tint it.
Plasticized	Mesh with a special polymer coating that is not subject to corrosion. This coating is not only very durable, but also has a wide color scheme. It is possible to choose a color that will match, for example, the roof of a house. Most often you can see blue and green chain-link. Less often red, white or yellow

What materials need to be purchased, drawing

Pay attention to the choice of support posts. The most convenient pipes are made of metal with a square cross-section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the mesh. Some people use old pipes onto which they weld these hooks themselves.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Most often, a net 150 centimeters wide with cells of 4–5 centimeters is used to construct a fence. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. To prevent sagging of the fence, support posts are installed at a distance of 200–250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, five posts are needed for one roll. The support posts should stick out above the ground 100 millimeters above the chain-link mesh. They should go 1/3 of their length into the ground.

Now it is clear that to build, for example, a 30-meter fence, you need to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 posts 230–150 centimeters long. Each post must have at least three hooks. If they are on the poles initially, then no problem. And if they are not there, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 pillars by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the poles using a welding machine.

If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set based on the fact that the length of one is 200–250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, you can calculate required amount metal corners, which, by the way, also have recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use 4x4 centimeter corners, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.

We install a tension chain-link fence

A tension fence can be installed much faster than a sectional one and will be less expensive. To erect a fence, you just need to mark the area, prepare holes for support posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's look at the process step by step.

Even if you have stretched the mesh really well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you simply need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel rods through the meshes of the chain-link. They must be threaded through the cells across the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the top edge of the mesh, and welded to the support posts.

Some people also thread such wire along the lower edge of the chain-link 200 millimeters from the surface of the ground.

DIY sectional fence

First you need to mark and install the support posts. The process is practically no different from the previous one. Is it possible that it is not hooks that are attached to the posts, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They need to be welded one at a time at the top and bottom. support pillar, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.

When welding a section to the supports, try to place the welding points at the same level. Even the most minimum deviation will be clearly visible and the aesthetic appearance will be lost.

Decorating the fence (table)

Decoration option	Description	Photo
Colored chain link	This is the easiest way to personalize your fence. You can paint it yourself or purchase it already painted. This also includes plasticized mesh. A competent choice of shade will perfectly complement the overall design of your site.
climbing plants	This method is also quite simple and popular among summer residents. You can grow bindweed, climatis or morning glory along the grid. Chain-link mesh is a very good support for such types of plants. Thus, the rather boring fence comes to life and is transformed. Naturally, it looks beautiful only in the warm season. In winter, the fence will lose its attractiveness. Such a fence will hide your privacy from neighbors' eyes for a while
Plant trees and shrubs around the perimeter	This option, like the previous one, is classified as “ hedge" Only some types of plants remain green in the cold, and the fence will not lose its attractiveness. They plant thuja, yew, climbing rose, rosehip, spirea. Often the choice falls on fruit-bearing plants, for example, blackberries, barberries, chokeberries and others. Naturally, such a fence requires constant care. This decorative design the fence, too, like the previous one, will protect you from the eyes passing by
Decorative chain link	There is a company in Denmark that produces fences. They came up with such a network. In it, the wire is woven so that various patterns are obtained that look like lace from a distance.
Garden on the fence	You can easily hang various pots and flower containers on the mesh. Sometimes garden plants are planted in them. The second option will appeal to those who have a small land plot. As a result, it’s beautiful and useful, and because of the fence no one can see what you’re doing on the site
Street art	Many people have old skeins of knitting thread at home. They can be used to “cross-stitch” on the fence mesh. This way you get interesting, individual and bright fences. This decoration option is gaining popularity in Europe and is already considered urban art. Why not decorate our fences this way? Moreover, it is quite cheap
Photo grid	Using a polymer mesh with an image printed on it will help you quickly give the fence an individual and beautiful view. It is durable, not afraid of bad weather, and the color does not fade. The pattern on the mesh is located on one side only. On the other hand, the chain-link is white.

Video: self-installation of a tension chain-link fence

Self-installation This kind of fencing is a simple process. Now you know it. This type of fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to install, and durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!