Joint plantings vegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops at the dachas there is a garden bed x is not know-how, not innovation, but used over many centuries of traditional cultivation vegetable crops technologies. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction different cultures within a particular industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about the beneficial or depressing mutual influence of various plants planted in the neighborhood. For small country farms themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of this planting method will allow using the available space more economically in terms of quantity and more efficiently in terms of quality.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?

To get the maximum yield on a minimum area using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even the incorrect rotation of crops planted on the same plot of land in different years, can either improve the result or negate all the efforts of the gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of the plantings, the right choice neighbour and in the garden bed allows you to solve both problems.

Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative crops You can achieve not only a rich, healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: a garden bed can become a decoration for your garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be taken into account: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted in one bed: lighting, humidity, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If the cultures coincide in most parameters, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to sizes: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - in the border, then everyone will have enough sunlight.

Compliance with crop rotation - an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow Friend after each other from season to season, as they draw from the soil what these plants need nutrients(which means that the next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and over the course of the season, pathogenic microorganisms accumulate that harm this particular family (which means that the “relative” is initially susceptible to the “family” disease). Plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots should be planted side by side in one bed so that these crops are adjacent and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingcultivation of different crops is possible not only within a spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen at the same time.

Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for later neighbors to emerge and begin to develop.

Good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden bed, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radishes in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head of lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, early variety potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut off the leaves and leave the roots); As they ripen, the radishes are pulled out and the lettuce leaves are removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripened.

Example of vertical combining compatible plants in one bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length there is a trellis support for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - low-growing tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - a fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, and a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, the tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

Advantages of mixed plantings

The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only saving space, although it is this reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

By wisely using the characteristics of certain plants, you can protect your plantings from attacks by insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, spices drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also become a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then aphids will prefer decorative culture without getting to the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help the cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic additives for tea in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, and show a beneficial effect on each other’s development: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn They are excellent neighbors, since their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for short plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and keep weeds at bay while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes emerge in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots that are beneficial to the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops in a common area, if you know that what and why is it friendly, what can be planted side by side in one common bed . It is equally important to consider which plants do not tolerate each other.

What are they compatible with?

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions and garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, and flea beetles avoid planting celery.

In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are simply friendly neighboring vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Neighbors do not recommend carrots to go with cabbage (although with broccoli perhaps), beans, grapes, strawberries, and tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. They are developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

cucumbers

There is experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover the neighbor from the hot sun.

Radishes and radishes repel bugs and improve the flavor of the fruit. Can plant next to onions with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad example of joint cultivation in one bed. Spinach, beans and beans, dill, celery and even beets - good neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, agaric, and quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow nearby, especially in greenhouses and greenhouses - they are too different conditions content. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot find a favorable neighborhood. They definitely don’t plant pumpkins next to zucchini - this is fraught with cross-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possible joint plantings with radishes and nasturtium - these crops perform a protective function.

Carrot

Most best neighbor For carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onions will rot or the carrots will not grow. Garlic, spinach, radishes, lettuce - the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill with carrot beds they tear them out mercilessly: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners a bean is thrown into the hole - the best partner of culture, helping to get more bountiful harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps cope with late blight.

Potatoes' friends include radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplants, horseradish (if its distribution is controlled), calendula, and corn.

But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes; for the same reason, beets are not planted next to them. Raspberries and tomatoes can cause late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root vegetables are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to be provided with a place - the plantings should not be thickened.

Beet antagonists are potatoes, beans. Not recommended nearby plant mustard.

bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. This is an active assistant for Bulgarian peppers , it contributes better growth and plant development. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the peppers are carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of the bulb are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin the neighbor or the onion harvest will leave the gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.

Onions are comfortable in the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, and strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable’s contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Garlic is friendly with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from late blight, and decorative plants - gladioli and roses - from aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic, we note leguminous plants.

Eggplant

Eggplant with beans - an ideal combination in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects eggplants from flea beetles. Included in one diagram planting with eggplants, onions, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers and cabbage.

Other vegetables

Radish It is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, and beans. But onions, cucumbers, and beets are not suitable for general landing with radish.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians note it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in enriching the dacha land.

Unfavorable neighborhood

The list of plants that do not get along in the close company of other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.

More often, incompatibility is explained by related ties between crops (dill, coriander, parsley, the Apiaceae family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, consider the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, the need free space on a piece of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.

By studying the influence of plants on each other, a gardener increases the efficiency of his work. Every year, a summer resident transforms the appearance of his plot, because knowledge of the basics of allelopathy of vegetable and garden crops allows him to create unique flower beds that produce a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.

When planting vegetable crops and trees, their characteristics are taken into account - plant growth in the sun or in the shade, abundant or moderate watering, differences in root systems. However, not everyone knows that when planting crops in the garden, their compatibility with each other should be taken into account. Summer residents who grow vegetables know that productivity depends not only on favorable conditions and care of plants, but also on their location in the beds. By adhering to the rules of compatibility of garden crops, even beginners will be able to rationally use land plot and get a good harvest.

If neighbors in the garden bed are chosen incorrectly, this can cause poor growth and development of crops, accumulation of insects and the formation of fungus due to excessive watering. Correct placement of plants in the beds, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect on their growth and also makes them more resistant to disease.

Principle mixed beds used by farmers and hobbyists growing organic vegetables, fruits and berries, since the correct compatibility of vegetables during planting helps repel pests, and there is no need to use chemicals. The right neighborhood and rational use garden plot allow you to increase productivity up to 20%.

Mixed plantings are not as complicated as they might seem at first glance. Before you start sowing, the plants need to be divided into groups, taking into account the intensity of watering and lighting, and the need to apply fertilizers. It is recommended to draw up a site plan with the distribution of plants. By adhering to the rules of vegetable compatibility, the gardener will receive the following benefits:

• saving land area;
• reduction in the incidence of diseases;
• plants attract harmful insects less;
• applying less fertilizer;
• increasing the yield and taste of fruits.

Rules and table of compatibility of vegetables with other crops in the garden

By planning a scheme for joint planting of vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees, it is possible not only to increase the yield and quality of fruits, but also to create beautiful garden bed. When distributing crops in the neighborhood, the following rules must be taken into account:

• “neighbors” must have similar requirements for light and moisture, acidity and soil structure, as well as the same rate of development and period of fruit ripening;
• it is unacceptable that the width of the bed is less than 1 meter;
• the garden is divided into several sections (in the middle part tall plants are planted, the fruits of which take the longest to ripen - tomatoes, peppers, cabbage);
• Early ripening plant species are placed closer to the borders - most often these are greens and herbs; this place is also suitable for grapes and strawberries;
• In order for the soil to remain fertile, it is important to follow the rule of crop rotation (planting plants several times in a row on the same soil is unacceptable);
• correct proximity involves the distribution of vegetables in the beds, taking into account their root system, the most best option- when crops with small and more developed roots alternate.

The table will help you plan what and where to plant, taking into account plant compatibility. The table shows the most common vegetables.

Vegetable	Good compatibility	Poor compatibility
Eggplant	Peas, potatoes	Onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic
Peas	Eggplants, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beans	Onions, garlic, tomatoes
Daikon	Zucchini, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, spinach, pumpkin	Peas, strawberries, cabbage
Cabbage	Potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, celery, dill	Strawberries, beans
Potato	Eggplants, peas, cabbage, onions, corn, parsley, lettuce, beets, horseradish, beans, garlic, radish	Cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
Onion	Black currants, garden strawberries, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, spinach	Beans, peas, beans, cabbage
Carrot	Peas, onions, tomatoes	Fennel
cucumbers	Peas, dill, beans, lettuce, cabbage	Potatoes, tomatoes
Pepper	Onions, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, basil, eggplant	Peas, cucumbers, celery, beans
Parsley	Onions, lettuce, peas, beans, tomatoes, radishes, beans	Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish
Tomatoes	Green crops, cabbage, onions, gooseberries, asparagus, beans	Potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, fennel
Salad	Cabbage, garden strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes, spinach, peas	Tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, beets
Beet	Cabbage, onion, lettuce, beans	Fennel

With fruit and other trees

It is not recommended to plant shrubs, berries and vegetables in the rows of a young garden. This is explained by the fact that plants, and especially crops from the nightshade family, take everything useful material from the soil.

If the trees have long taken root and delight their owners with their fruits, you can sow seeds of parsley, cilantro, dill, radishes and lettuce under them. These crops do not harm their neighbors and ripen in the shortest possible time; in addition, in the shade the greens remain juicy for a long time.

You can also choose perennials- strawberries, wild garlic, jusai, mustard, mint, lemon balm.

In mid-summer, Chinese cabbage, radish and radish seeds are sown in the shade of trees. Beans feel good under the canopy of a tree. Thanks to it, the soil is enriched with nitrogen, which in turn improves productivity.

Under old trees, some gardeners successfully grow cucumbers, lagenaria, pumpkins and zucchini. The plants climb beautifully along the trunk, and thanks to fertile soil give a good harvest.

Regarding tomatoes, expert opinions differ - some believe that the plant will stretch due to insufficient lighting, others say the opposite, reaping a good harvest under a tree. Gardeners also claim that planting is mutually beneficial for both tomatoes and fruit trees, since the latter are protected from the codling moth, and tomatoes are less likely to suffer from late blight.

If you want to decorate your garden with roses, you should know that planting them next to plum, pear and apple trees is not recommended. Under walnut Greens and vegetables will not grow well. It is also worth considering that tomatoes and potatoes are bad neighbors for apricots.

With flowers and herbs

Vegetables do not really like being in the vicinity of marigolds, while placement near marigolds is favorable. They protect plants from nematodes and make the beds beautiful. Calendula improves soil quality, and pests are afraid of it. Both plants are planted near cucumbers, carrots and potatoes. It is best to sow marigolds and zinnias near tomatoes.

Nasturtiums will help against aphids, whitefish and snails. Flowers are sown between rows or randomly near garden crops. Daffodils and tulips are planted near carrots.

Herbs such as chamomile, tansy, yarrow and wormwood protect plants from pests. Gardeners love nasturtium because it resists pests and weeds, and also delights with its beauty until late autumn. In addition, it can be eaten by adding to salads. It gets along best with potatoes and cabbage. Garlic planted with roses repels beetles.

Also to edible plants refers to borage, or borage. It repels pests, loosens the soil, removes excess moisture and blooms very beautifully throughout the summer, attracting pollinating insects.

With bushes

You can sow greens in the garden near the bushes. Gooseberries, raspberries and other berry bushes do well near fruit trees, provided that they do not shade them too much.

Combined plantings of raspberries and bush beans are characterized by mutual beneficial effects, but the plants will not like the proximity of raspberries and blackberries. To protect the bushes from the codling moth, sow tarragon or tarragon.

It is recommended to sow lupine, hyssop, onions, and garlic near grapes, but planting cabbage and hazelnuts leads to the death of the young grapevine. Near it you can place currants, raspberries, radishes, legumes, beets, and cucumbers. It should be borne in mind that grapes planted near a bed of berries have a special taste. The most favorable is its proximity to strawberries - this is how the grapes turn out to be large and sweet.

Gooseberries get along well with red currants; they do not compete for space and do not attract common pests. You can also plant lemon balm, mint, basil and sage with gooseberries - the herbs repel sawflies, aphids and moths. For the same purpose, tomatoes are planted near the gooseberries. An unfavorable neighbor is onions. Raspberries and gooseberries can be planted under plum trees.

• It is better to place eggplants near onions, beans, spinach, and thyme;
• It is better to plant onions, herbs, tomatoes, carrots, kohlrabi, and zucchini next to hot peppers;
• strawberries and parsley located nearby feel good;
• cucumbers are friends with most plants, especially beans, zucchini, celery, garlic, onions, spinach;
• the legume family gets along well with peas, parsley, cucumbers, corn, potatoes;
• beets grow well near strawberries and onions;
• It is recommended to plant carrots in a bed with onions, garlic, and radishes;
• cabbage gets along in the same bed with celery, dill, rosemary, and beans;
• It is better to plant sorrel, carrots, lettuce, radish, radish, spinach near the strawberries;
• It is better to plant garlic next to celery, carrots, roses, and gladioli;
• sweet peppers are planted in the same bed with basil, okra, beets, fennel;
• tomatoes prefer to grow separately, and not together with other vegetables, but do not mind being adjacent to onions, beets, and corn;
• pumpkin gets along with legumes and radishes;
• loves potatoes if nasturtium, marigolds, beans, and cilantro are located nearby;
• excellent companions for onions are carrots, beets and all types of melons.

Examples of successful plant combinations

When drawing up a plan for the beds, taking into account the principle of joint planting of vegetable crops, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the options successful combinations. Examples of good neighbors with good fertility and minimal morbidity rates:

• alternating pumpkin, corn, legumes and nasturtium;
• a bed of radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, spinach, early potatoes;
• alternating rows of carrots, parsley, dill;
• a plot with legumes, tomatoes, cilantro, carrots, marigolds;
• a bed of cucumbers, basil and tomatoes;
• rows of potatoes, cabbage, spinach, beans, corn.

What plants are best not to be planted next to each other in the garden?

Improper placement of vegetables and trees can cause reduced yields or attract insects. To avoid mistakes, gardeners are advised to familiarize themselves with crops that are poorly compatible with each other:

• green onions should not be planted next to garlic;
• you should not plant turnips, tomatoes, asparagus, rhubarb, or zucchini near cucumbers;
• garlic should not be planted close to peas, beans, soybeans, peanuts;
• for gooseberries, black currants are a bad companion;
• Juniper and cherries cannot be placed together with a pear;
• mint, basil and cilantro have a bad effect on the growth of garlic;
• It is not recommended to plant apricot, lilac, cherry, sweet cherry, barberry next to the apple tree;
• cherries do not do well near currants;
• Raspberries and strawberries planted nearby become a favorable environment for weevils.

You have, of course, more than once thought about how best to use the space in your garden, how to compact vegetables on them. Which cultures are compatible? How to organize a conveyor in a garden bed? All these issues can be solved by using mixed plantings of vegetables, the diagrams of which are given below.

Repeated and compaction sowing of vegetable crops

Compacted planting of vegetable crops has been used since ancient times. This way it is used more intensively effective area, because in the garden it is the most fertile and loose. We don’t spare mulch there, water it with all kinds of weed infusions, and of course, enrich the soil with compost and green manure.

combined planting of vegetable crops - beans, cabbage, corn

Compacted plantings are very often used in practice natural farming. After all, green manure and organic mulch not only fertilize the soil, but also heal the microflora - there are no severe diseases or pests. One of the conditions that must be taken into account when compacting crops is the characteristics of the vegetative development of combined crops. In a short growing season (30-45 days), crops such as dill, lettuce, spinach, radishes, arugula, and onions have time to grow. Watercress grows even faster.

Middle period development in such cultures as early cabbage, garlic, onions for turnips - they leave the garden by the end of July-beginning of August. Autumn period harvested from vegetables such as late cabbage, carrots, and beets. Well, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants leave the garden late.

mixed plantings sometimes turn out to be very expressive

Repeated sowing of vegetable crops mainly refers to crops with a short and, less often, medium growing season. So, after the lettuce leaves the garden, you can plant grown cabbage in its place. By this point, it will no longer interfere with the previously planted cucumbers, which will climb the trellis. And after harvesting the garlic, you can plant it in its place. Chinese cabbage. This is an early ripening crop, and before frost you can constantly pick off its succulent leaves for fresh salads.

Plant compatibility

Combined planting of vegetables is very effective if you choose good companions for the main crops. After all, plants can inhibit each other, or vice versa, stimulate growth, development, and even protection from pests. It has been noticed that when potatoes are compacted with beans, the damage from the Colorado potato beetle is significantly reduced. And compacting cabbage with marigolds reduces the risk of attack by the white butterfly. But even here you need to maintain a reasonable balance - too a large number of marigolds will not help the cabbage, but will oppress it.

The ability to secrete organic compounds that inhibit or suppress the development of others is called the allelopathy effect. But no matter how hard they try to study and systematize this phenomenon, it is impossible to obtain reliable data - too many factors influence the plant during the growing season. Everyone's areas are different: temperature regime, humidity, lighting, prevailing winds, soil composition, etc. Therefore, successful combinations in some conditions may “work” completely differently in others. But that's not a reason to ignore someone's successes, right? We need to take such decisions into account and adjust the “combination” already in our beds.

When placing plants in a garden bed, you can take into account not only the compatibility of vegetables with each other, but also intersperse ornamental and herbs. Then the garden will become not only useful, but also beautiful. The compatibility of plants during planting, tested in practice in our conditions in Kazakhstan (Table 1), has so far collected little data. But they are all successfully used.

Table 1

peas	eggplant, corn, calendula, cucumber, carrots
strawberries	lettuce, marigolds, beans, garlic, spinach
cabbage	onions, beets, celery, dill, marigolds
kohlrabi	onion, lettuce, beets, cucumber
onion	carrots, beets, tomato, celery, savory
carrot	peas, onions, lettuce, tomato, sage
cucumber	peas, radishes, beans, cabbage, peppers
pepper	cucumber, salad, beans
salad	carrots, cucumber, radishes, strawberries
tomato	parsley, beans, calendula, nasturtium, basil
beans	eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, cucumber

Potatoes and cucumbers, beans and onions, strawberries and cabbage do not get along with each other. Carrots “do not like” all umbelliferous plants - dill, celery, parsley. Fennel is generally a pest, and it is better to plant it in tubs. It is also better for hyssop to find a place in the backyard.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden

Almost schoolchildren know about the successful “duet” of carrots and onions. Separately planted onions from 1 sq.m in our conditions yield approximately 2.5 kg, and carrots about 6 kg from the same area. And when they grow together, we collect 9 kg of vegetables from the same area of ​​the garden bed! They protect each other from pests, so the efficiency of space use doubles.

And of course, mixed plantings in the garden need to be grouped taking into account the height of the plants, and the plantings should be layered. And also watch the growth - they grow differently, some quickly gain green mass, others slowly. It is better to plant compactors at a lower height than the main crops. Tiering creates favorable conditions for the roots, and overall better use of solar energy.

Mixed planting of vegetables: schemes

It is advisable to place combined plantings of vegetable crops on stationary beds. The soil in them is not dug up every season; its structure is improved annually due to the death of the roots of vegetables, flowers and green manure. Different cultures and crop rotation reduce soil fatigue, and working in such beds is much easier than in a traditional garden. Here are proven schemes for mixed vegetable plantings:

planting scheme (cabbage and beets)

1. The scheme combines landing late cabbage and beets. Inside a square of 80 × 80 cm, seedlings of 4 cabbage bushes and 9 beet plants are planted. A handful of ground is placed into the hole eggshells and a glass of compost. Beetroot is harvested in September. The yield is 3-3.2 kg per sq.m. Heads of cabbage harvested in October increase in strength to 10.5-10.8 kg on average. Total weight is about 14 kg, not bad?
2. Scheme of combined planting of tomatoes and beans. The distance between plants in a row is 30 cm. A line is installed along the rows of bush beans drip irrigation, and beans are planted near each dropper. The tomatoes are placed in the center of the bed in a checkerboard pattern with beans (between the droppers so that there is no excess moisture). There is a stationary trellis running along the center line of the bed. In our conditions, beans produce 2 harvests and on average yield 1.6-1.8 kg per 1 sq.m., medium-sized tomatoes - 4-4.5 kg. For the winter, we don’t prune the bean bushes, but we remove the stems of the tomato bushes by cutting them low.

planting scheme for tomatoes and bush beans

And finally, a short lesson from Galina Ivanovna Kizima, who masterfully uses compacted planting of vegetables (video):

Mixed plantings of vegetables, the diagrams of which you have seen here, in no case cancel crop rotation in the beds. If, for example, you plant beets in the same place, then next year you will get root crops the size of a gulkin’s nose. But this is the topic of the next publications, so stay with us and subscribe to article announcements.

UTILITIES ON THE BEDS

Use crop areas to the fullest. For example, for radishes, planting can be done according to a 4x4 cm pattern, completely sowing the allotted area. For carrots, an area of ​​5x5 cm is sufficient, and for beets, 9x9 cm. Turnips and summer radishes can be planted according to a pattern of 8x8 cm; for late black radish, an area of ​​12x12 cm is required.

Cauliflower can be planted according to a 30x30 cm pattern, and cabbage - 40x40 cm. At the same time, erect (tall) marigolds can be planted between the plants of any cabbage and the plantings can be compacted with lettuce or spinach and even radishes.

It is better to sow cucumbers in one row every 20-25 cm, and for tall tomatoes, formed into one stem, an area of ​​30x30 cm is enough, that is, I place 9-10 plants on one square meter. For those who are not stepsons low-growing tomatoes the area should be left larger (40x40 cm), since the main harvest is on the stepsons, and therefore the bush becomes spreading.

Peppers will make do with a space of 25x25 cm. But bush dill Buyan (or Salut), as well as leaf parsley, in particular Volshebnitsa, require the same distance between plants as cauliflower, then you will really get a big harvest.

It is best to plant the beds located in the garden with more than one crop, but to make a large communal apartment out of the bed, populating it with different inhabitants who are compatible with each other.

CULTURAL COMPATIBILITY

There are plants that get along well side by side, protecting each other with their smell from pests, are mutual biostimulants, and there are warring ones that suppress each other in every possible way, for example, beans are very friendly, almost all plants are friends with them, but fennel is fierce for everyone enemy.

When planting plants on small area This fact must be taken into account so that hostility does not arise in the garden beds. In this case, three factors must be remembered: crops belonging to the same species cannot be planted next to or after each other; those that carry the same nutrients in the same ratio, have the same habitus, that is, the same height of the above-ground part and the same and the same root depth. In addition, plant roots secrete mycotoxins to protect their territory from invasion by uninvited strangers, so the compatibility of plant root systems must also be taken into account.

Beds planted with different compatible plants resist pests much better than beds planted with one particular crop, which has been noticed by many amateur gardeners.

The mixture of their smells fools pests, even omnivores, because it prevents them from releasing the smell of those plants - their breadwinners, on which they feed. And pests, just in case, avoid such communal apartments. If you don't believe me, check it out.

This summer, sow the bed intended for carrots along the perimeter of the crown with seeds of low-growing marigolds. Then sow a row of parsnips (white carrots) or broccoli seeds down the center. Stepping back 20 cm on each side, sow one row of radishes on each side, then a row of carrots, a row of nigella onions (or small sets), again a row of carrots on each side.

Instead of broccoli, you can sow lettuce. In the middle of the bed, sow seeds of tall marigolds every 15-20 cm. Cover the bed with double lutrasil. When frosts and the flight of vegetable flies have passed (after cherry blossoms), lutrasil can be removed.

Such sowing in the North-West can be done at the very end of April - beginning of May, as soon as the soil thaws (the flowering time of coltsfoot). At the end of May, the garden bed will be freed from radishes, then from lettuce, and the feeding and lighting area will increase for other grown crops.

COMPATIBLE FITTINGS

Eggplant - beans.

Broccoli - beets, sage.

Peas - eggplant, calendula, corn, cucumber, radish, carrots.

Pear - see apple tree.

Strawberries - marigolds, borage, lettuce, beans, garlic, spinach.

Head cabbage - anise, potatoes, onions, peppermint, rosemary, chamomile, beets, celery, dill.

Cauliflower - celery.

Calendula, garlic - gladioli, strawberries, roses, currants, tulips. Kohlrabi - onion, lettuce, beets, cucumber, spices.

Corn - peas, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans.

Onions and garlic - strawberries, carrots, chamomile, beets, celery, tomato, savory.

Raspberry - plum, apple tree, calendula.

Carrots - peas, onions, radishes, radishes, rosemary, lettuce, tomato, sage. Nasturtium - most vegetables, phlox.

Cucumber - peas, corn, sunflower, radish, beans, tomato, cabbage. Parsley - asparagus, tomato.

Sunflower - cucumber. Radishes - peas, nasturtium, cucumber, lettuce.

Radish - beets, spinach, carrots, parsley, tomato, pumpkin, cucumber.

Turnips - peas. Salad - strawberries, carrots, cucumber, radishes.

Beets - kohlrabi, onions, radishes, cabbage, beans, beans, lettuce.

Celery - cabbage, onion, tomato, beans, cauliflower, leek.

Tomato - calendula, leftover, onion, nasturtium, parsley, celery, asparagus. Pumpkin - corn.

Dill, spinach - radishes, turnips, cabbage.

Beans - cabbage, potatoes, carrots, cucumber, savory and most garden crops, except beets.

Phlox - nasturtium.

Apple tree - spruce, calendula, raspberry, tansy, tomato, dill.

INCOMPATIBLE LANDINGS

Eggplant - other nightshade crops.

Cherry - raspberry.

Peas - gladioli, potatoes, onions, garlic.

Strawberries - cabbage.

Cabbage - strawberries, tomatoes, beans.

Onions, garlic - peas, beans.

Carrots - dill, parsley, celery and other umbrella crops.

Cucumber - potatoes, zucchini, aromatic herbs.

Pepper - beets.

Sunflower - potatoes.

Beets - beans, spinach.

Tomato - other nightshade crops, including potatoes, cabbage. Pumpkin - potatoes.

Beans - gladioli, onions, garlic, beets.

Not a single plant tolerates the proximity of fennel and hyssop, so they must be planted in a separate corner of the garden. You cannot plant strawberries after potatoes because of nematodes, as well as after tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. Do not leave the pine tree - this is the wintering place for many pests, in particular carrot psyllids, as well as spores of the columnar rust fungus. Remove buckthorn from the area and mow down sedge - breeding grounds for goblet rust.

CROP ROTATION ON ONE BED

If you have only one or two vegetable beds, then you need to do crop rotation in one bed, populating it like a large one. communal apartment, caring only that neighbors do not quarrel with each other, but, on the contrary, treat each other in a friendly manner. You can select them by carefully reading the list of compatible plants. For example, we plant beets, compacting them early radish, planted in the beet rows before planting. When the beets grow up and need a lot of space, the radishes will already be removed and will not interfere with the beets. We plant 1-2 m of the bed with beets, and then we plant celery seedlings, just one row across the bed. Next, you can plant several plants of any cabbage, compacting the plantings with early planted spinach, then sow carrots according to a 5x5 cm pattern on just one meter, followed by onion sets on one meter, then you can plant lettuce, followed by parsley. When there is room for lettuce, we will plant late radishes. On next year We’ll move all the crops forward, and the beets will be at the end of the bed.

SEALING FITTINGS - IN CROWDED BUT NOT MAD

We plant corn in one row in the center of the bed, beans on both sides of it, and carrots on the edges. Or we alternate rows of corn with rows of ground cucumbers. The direction of the beds, as always, is north - south. Do not be afraid that the cucumbers or beans will curl the corn - it will not suffer from this, and at the same time it will protect the beans and cucumbers from the winds. A row of beans can be used to divide strawberry plantings; such proximity improves the taste of the berries, and planting one spinach plant among four lettuce plants improves the taste of the salad.

Nasturtium and marigold are friends of vegetables, disorienting with their smell insects that fly around them because they do not find their breadwinners among them.

Sow early carrots in the center of the bed. When the time comes, plant cabbage seedlings on both sides of it, alternating them with marigolds, and plant nettles at the ends of the bed. Or plant a row of cabbage in the center of the bed, beets on the sides, and plant the sides of the bed with nasturtiums.

Or plant celery along the edges of the bed, and a row of marigolds in the center, and cauliflower on either side of them.

You can use the bed twice: sow spinach in the center of the bed as early as possible, and early turnips or radishes on the sides of it. When you harvest the spinach, sow winter radishes in its place, and after harvesting turnips or radishes, sow late carrots.

When engaged in gardening and gardening, many farmers are faced with the problem of lack of space, as well as sometimes inexplicable incompatibilities between different plants. Which, in turn, leads to a decrease in yield and various diseases that impair plant growth and the quality of the resulting fruit. Mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes of which are drawn up taking into account all the features, can solve many problems.

The Science of Mixed Plantings

Allelopathy is a science that studies the influence on each other and the ability of them to coexist together. The proximity of vegetables in the greenhouse and mixed plantings are determined taking into account the influencing factors. Every plant secretes through its leaves and roots various substances, which, when released into the soil, can either be absorbed by other plants or cause harm to them.

Some species tend to stimulate the growth of accompanying plantings and provide protective effect on them from pests, but at the same time they can oppress. Besides the obvious, there is another reason to create mixed plantings - to save space.

Schemes of mixed and compacted vegetable plantings

It is very important when drawing up a plan for future plantings to consider:

1. Climatic conditions in a particular area may vary, as some places are drier and others wetter. The effects of wind, precipitation and frost must also be taken into account in the calculations.
2. It is necessary to know the characteristics of each specific site, its soil composition, the effect of sunlight on this area, as well as its protection from the aggressive influences of nature.

Planning

These parameters should form the basis of the garden planting strategy to obtain the highest results from each meter of area. Drawing up a plan begins with studying the characteristics of the site and the characteristics of each individual meter of land. Schemes of mixed beds (planting vegetables in a garden bed, as is known, vary in purpose) must be drawn up taking into account all climatic and agrotechnical parameters of the soil.

Advantages of the method

Advantages of mixed plantings:

Smart combination

Alternation of crops with different requirements to the nutrition and composition of the soil allows us to avoid partial or complete depletion of the soil and the destruction of any individual nutrients needed by plants.

Planting vegetables together can improve the quality of life of neighboring crops and can also affect the taste and nutritional value of the fruit.

Main and accompanying plants

Mixed plantings of vegetables, their arrangement patterns and the principles that guide the gardener when composing them are based on simple knowledge. In the practice of this method, there are such concepts as a companion plant, or accompanying plant, as well as the main crop. The main plant is the target of planting, and the satellite plant is used to fill gaps and produce larger yields.

Mixed planting tactics

In the role of accompanying plants, aromatic green fertilizers are more often used, a number of which can benefit their neighbors. The main crops are usually vegetables and are slow-ripening, small-sized specimens, with fast-ripening species in between.

This tactic is very effective. While the main culture is slowly growing and developing, the accompanying culture has time to grow, making room for sufficient development of the main one. That's what it is main principle drawing up a plan and diagram of mixed plantings.

Preferred neighborhood

In order to organically fit into your plan various mixed plantings of vegetables and their arrangement on the site, you need to know the properties of each plant and its compatibility with others. It is convenient to consider the properties inherent in individual garden crops in the form of a table. Mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden must be made taking into account the needs of each crop.

Correct Neighborhood Table

Name of culture	Good neighborhood	Undesirable neighborhood O
Basil	All crops, especially tomatoes and lettuce	Ruta
Eggplant	Beans, thyme	-
Beans	Cucumbers, potatoes, spinach, corn, radishes, buckwheat and mustard. If beans act as the main plants, then for them good neighbors will become lavender, rosemary, yarrow, oregano, borage	Any garlic, wormwood, marigold
Grape	Corn, potatoes, radishes, beans, radishes, rye	Onions, soybeans, barley, cabbage
Peas	Goes well with carrots, rice, various salads, cucumbers, turnips	Onions, garlic, tomatoes
Cabbage	All varieties are excellent neighbors for bush beans, salads, buckwheat, celery, beets, borage, carrots, and spinach. To protect cabbage from harmful insects, various direct fragrant plants are planted next to it: dill, sage, mint, rosemary, thyme, nasturtium, marigolds	Does not go well with grapes and strawberries
Potato	Gets along with legumes, cabbage, radishes and various salads. Potatoes will help in repelling pests: tansy, marigolds, nasturtium, coriander	It is highly not recommended to plant sunflower and celery next to each other.
Strawberry	It is good to plant spinach, sage, and parsley nearby. The mutual influence with beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, peas, and soy is especially favorable	Cabbage
Corn	All cultures	Beetroot, celery
Onion	The best combination with beets, strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, spinach	Beans, peas, legumes, sage
Carrot	Peas. Loyal to the neighborhood with potatoes, onions, lettuce	Dill, fennel. Also, there is no place for it under an apple tree, as the root vegetables will be very bitter
cucumbers	Good companions for beans, beans, beets, garlic, onions, radishes, spinach, as well as dill and chamomile	Undesirable proximity to tomatoes, since their maintenance conditions are very different
Pepper	Basil	It's hard to get along with beans. A bad neighbor for him and fennel
Parsley	Pairs well with strawberries, peas, tomatoes, asparagus, salads	-
Radish	Salads, beans. Radish plantings can be combined with tomatoes, onions, parsley, garlic, strawberries and peas	Planting next to hyssop is highly discouraged, as this imparts great bitterness to the fruit.
Turnip	Goes well with peas	Doesn't go well with mustard and asparagus at all.
Beet	It is an excellent companion for cabbage, radishes, radishes and salad. Next to the beets you can also place beds with garlic, strawberries, celery, and cucumbers	-
Celery	White cabbage. Feels great next to cucumbers and tomatoes, soybeans, beans and peas	Neighborhood with corn, parsley, potatoes and carrots is extremely undesirable
Tomatoes	They go well with basil, celery, parsley, spinach and beans. Planting next to cabbage, corn, garlic, carrots, beets is neutral in its influence	Do not place next to kohlrabi cabbage, fennel and dill, potatoes, eggplants
Pumpkin	A responsive neighbor for peas and beans. Coexists favorably with corn	Next to cabbage, cucumbers, salads, onions, carrots
Beans	Friendly with almost all cultures	Onions, fennel, garlic, peas
Spinach	All cultures	-
Garlic	Friendly neighborhood with tomatoes, beets, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers	Negatively affects the taste of peas, beans, cabbage

Today you learned about what mixed planting of vegetables is. Schemes for their composition are created taking into account the preferences of each individual plant, as well as the conditions of its maintenance, which should be the basis for calculating future beds. The use of such a progressive method provides many advantages, which are especially important to take advantage of when trying to obtain maximum benefit and large harvests from each square meter area.