Shoe rack in the hallway: description of types, selection criteria and features of making it yourself. Shoe cabinet made of chipboard with two shelves Making a shoe cabinet with your own hands drawings

How to do DIY shoe cabinet? In this article we will look at the manufacturing stages.

Slush spring and autumn, dusty summer, winter, which places special demands on clothing - and now several pairs of shoes do not have enough space in the corner of the corridor.

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Why is it more practical to do it yourself?

It is always easier for a non-professional to buy a shoe cabinet rather than make one. However, there are a number of nuances:

Firstly, the range of inexpensive shelves is often meager.
Secondly, the sizes of shelves in stores do not correspond to rational calculations. The foot of the average CIS resident is still much larger than the Chinese, who supply most inexpensive furniture, assume.
In addition, the height of the shelves is almost always the same. This is not entirely logical, since in winter people wear boots with high tops.

It is better to have one shelf with a higher height or hooks on the sides of the shelf to adjust the height yourself depending on the season.

What to consider when choosing materials and components

Is it difficult to make a standard shoe cabinet? The obvious answer is no, it's not difficult. It is necessary to take into account a number of nuances before completing the drawings, purchasing materials and starting assembly.

Let's look at the most important details Your future shoe cabinet:

Note: buy one standard chipboard sheet and sawing it in the end turns out to be more expensive than ordering from a furniture store/manufacturer exactly the number of parts and the dimensions that you envisage in the drawings.

The shelves do not have to be made of wood. Take a closer look at the type of shelves on the dish drainer. Lattice metal shelves are the best option;
Chipboard is a material that combines low cost and functionality. Laminated sheets are sold in many furniture stores and small industries;
back wall The cabinet can be made of hardboard - pressed cardboard, which is often used in furniture production.

Designer's notes

To make the design of the cabinet practical, you need to take into account the features of storing shoes and correctly calculate the dimensions of the shelves:

the bottom of the cabinet should not be covered with anything, otherwise water will collect inside;
shoes need ventilation. This may include several holes in the sides if the cabinet is planned to be closed (with doors);
The depth of the shelves should correspond to the length of the box of the largest pair of shoes in the house.

How to calculate cabinet dimensions

Sketch of a shoe cabinet

Provided that the largest pair of shoes in the house is size 42, i.e. 27 cm long, the shelf should have “depth” with a margin - say, 28 cm.

Depending on the size of the shoe, the size needs to be varied. The larger side of the shelf depends on the number of pairs of shoes you need to put:

collect all the shoes that you plan to put in the locker and measure how much space they take up in a row;
take into account the designed number of shelves (3 or 4);
put a small margin in the width of the shelf.

Chipboard thickness - 16 mm. Accordingly, the external width of the cabinet will be 32 mm greater than the width of the shelf.

What you will need

It is worth noting that the dimensions below are calculated based on the fact that maximum size shoes - 42nd.

External dimensions of the cabinet: height - 1,200 mm, length (depth) - 320 mm, and width - 900 mm. You need to choose sizes so that they are close to the dimensions of standard parts that are available in every furniture store.

In this case, the set necessary details is:

4 lattice or chipboard (to your taste) shelves with a width of 864 mm and a “depth” of 280 mm;
top cover standard size 900 by 320 mm;
side walls 1184 high (taking into account the thickness top cover 16 mm will be the height of the cabinet) and length (“depth”) 320 mm;
frames (small parts made of chipboard) 100 mm high and 868 mm wide for fastening the structure at the back and front, called drawers;

Helpful advice: You can stretch a rope over the last shelf to use small clothespins to secure the tops of your boots: this way they will not break.

figured facades (improvised doors) made of MDF with a height of 1195 mm and a width of 447 mm (2 doors plus a margin of 4 mm for ease of opening);
fiberboard sheet with a height of 1195 mm and a width of 895 mm for the manufacture of the back wall;
4 furniture hinges;
2 door handles;
8 confirmations (5 by 70 mm). Confirmat - a special furniture screw for fastening cabinet elements;
self-tapping screws 16 by 4 mm - it’s better to take a few dozen in reserve;
Adjustable shelf holders: 4 per shelf.

Connection technology

Assembling the shoe cabinet is carried out in the following order:

The holes in the side walls for inserting confirmations must be made with a diameter of about 8 mm, and at the ends of the drawer frames - with a diameter of 5 mm. The drilling depth is half the length of the furniture screw.
Metal corners will add rigidity to the cabinet. They will also be needed if you are attaching finished design to Wall.
Hinges for facades, corners, and the back wall must be secured with self-tapping screws.
Attach shelf supports, handles for fronts and hang shelves.
You can place the cabinet on the floor so you can sit on it when you put on your shoes, but it would be better to hang it and find another use for the countertop.

Helpful advice: if everything is in order with the ventilation, then the cabinet will be dry enough and you can also hide the Internet connection in it. Then there will be a Wi-Fi router on top of the tabletop.

If you spend some time designing and creating drawings, your cabinet will turn out to be much more practical and cheaper than the products of Chinese craftsmen.

We suggest you take a look detailed video on how to make a shoe cabinet yourself:

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Very often, the layout of the apartment does not allow installing a full-fledged shoe closet in the hallway. As a rule, the corridors are very narrow and it is not possible to install wide chests of drawers.

The furniture market offers a huge selection of various ready-made shoe racks and chests of drawers, but they are not always suitable in size, color and design.

A good alternative to a storage system in this case is a shoe rack with built-in shoe racks.

There are one-, two- and three-section systems. Depending on the number of sections, the number of shoes that will fit in the ready product. The depth of the shoe rack may also change.

Today we invite you to consider the process of manufacturing and assembling a two-section shoe rack, the dimensions of which are: 1100*700*250 (W*H*D). And using this material, you can easily make such a shoe rack with your own hands at home.

The materials for making shoe racks can be:

MDF board,
Chipboard board,
Plywood,
Tree.

As for plywood, it is certainly one of the most durable materials for making furniture. However, he requires additional processing and painting.

MDF is also highly durable. Its dense structure facilitates the process of drilling and assembling the product. But, often, if you make a shoe rack entirely from MDF, the product turns out to be quite heavy and expensive. Therefore, only facades are usually made from MDF, and the entire body is assembled from chipboard.

When ordering cutting and lamination of MDF, you can additionally choose milling on the plate, that is, using special milling equipment, a relief pattern will be applied to the parts. It will add a special style to your shoe rack.

In this material we will look at the manufacture of shoe boots from chipboards 16 mm thick for the frame, and 10 mm for the internal partitions of the overshoes. This material is one of the most budget-friendly on the market.

Due to the fact that chipboards have a wide range of colors, you can choose the color you like most or choose a decor that best matches the rest of the furniture in your home.

Our design involves the use of two colors: dark wenge (for the roof, sides, internal pillar and bottom) and wenge light color(for facades).

Of course, it is much easier to order detailing from a specialized store or workshop, since chipping cannot be avoided when cutting parts yourself. You just need to go to a furniture shop with detailing, and they will also trim them for you.

Edging parts

At home, veneering is only possible, because for plastic you need a special machine and glue, which, heating up to high temperatures, provides good adhesion of the edge to the part.

Roof,
facades,
Sidewalls.

All internal parts, partitions in overshoes can be pasted over in the same way PVC edging, but 0.5 mm thick. You will need to give it to the masters furniture workshop detailing, which also indicates how to veneer the parts.

Detailing

Shoe cabinet details

Details chipboard 16 mm, color: dark wenge:

1100*250 – roof/bottom, 2 pcs.
668*250 – sidewalls and internal stand, 3 pcs.
526*250 – internal horizontal shelves, 2 pcs.

Details chipboard 16 mm, color: light wenge:

311*518 – facades, 4 pcs.

Details chipboard 10 mm, color: light wenge:

510*140 – internal partitions for overshoes – 4 pcs.
510*135 - internal partitions for shoe boots - 4 pcs.
510*85 - internal partitions for shoe boots - 4 pcs.

Fibreboard part 3 mm, color: white:

696*1096 – back wall – 1 pc.

Accessories for shoe racks

Shoes - 4 sets. These are plastic sandwiches for the sidewalls, each set contains two pieces, size: 192*287*85*16;
Handles – 4 pcs;
Thrust bearings – 6 pcs.;
Self-tapping screws;
Confirmations
Double-sided tape (for mounting facades).

Necessary tool

Screwdriver;
Screwdriver, tape measure, square;
Confirmation bat;
Screw bit;
Drill for confirmations;
Awl.

Assembling a shoe rack

First of all, we assemble the frame of the shoe rack, four main parts - two sidewalls, a roof and a bottom. The box itself can be assembled at:

Confirmats - here you will see the stubs from them,
Minifixes - the process of installing an eccentric coupler is described in more detail in the article.
Furniture metal corners.

It's up to you to decide what will be easiest for you. I would still recommend minifixes.

After we assemble the box, we can install the internal parts.

The easiest way to screw them to the sidewalls and bottom is with confirmations, and to the roof and between each other in the center - with metal corners.

The final work on the frame will be the installation of the fiberboard back wall. In principle, nothing complicated should arise here.

It should be remembered that when installing the back wall of fiberboard, you should always have a perfect square/rectangle with even diagonals

Installation of galoshes

Now we will need to install the mechanisms for the shoe rack. They are attached to the sides. Below are the installation dimensions and mounting drawings of these mechanisms:

To make it easier to deal with installation dimensions and it is easier to install the opening mechanism for our shoe rack, you can use the drawings below.

On the sidewalls you need to mark the attachment points for the rotation axis and the stop pin, and you can immediately screw the panels to the sidewalls.

At our shoe shoe standard size: 192*287*85*16 . First, make markings for future fastening of the plastic part according to the above drawing and installation diagram (for each shoe shoe, the kit always includes a drawing and wiring diagram its installation, according to which, in fact, installation should be carried out).

First of all, the shoe shoe needs to be screwed to the sidewalls of the chipboard using self-tapping screws. In this case, pay attention to the fact that the shoe shoe should tilt freely and return to its original position.

Now you need to connect the parts made of chipboard (the shoe shoe itself), the thickness of which is 10 mm, and the plastic parts of the shoe shoe.

Do this in stages. That is, first you insert the parts into special grooves and screw them with self-tapping screws to the left side panel, then to the internal vertical partition. Then repeat these steps with reverse side partition and right side panel.

On next stage All we have to do is install the facades, handles and thrust bearings.

We glue double-sided tape onto the shoe shoe, try on the facade, press it and screw it.

Please note: in our detailing, the dimensions of the facades for cutting and edging are already indicated with the necessary indents and gaps of 2 mm on each side. Also, based on installation drawing overshoes, the front gap at the bottom must be at least 7 mm!!!

That is, step by step, we have:

The height of the opening for the facade is 326 mm.,
height of the facade in detail 311 mm.,
when we glue the edge to the facade, we will add 2 mm on each side - it will already be 315 mm,
you will also need 2 mm for the gap,
As a result, in an opening with a height of 326 mm there will be a facade with a height of 315 mm (2 mm each for the gap at the top and bottom, plus an additional gap of 7 mm at the bottom).

At the very end, all we have to do is screw on the thrust bearings and at this point the assembly can be considered complete.

Shoe rack drawing

Now all the shoes in your hallway will be in their places, while the folding mechanism will not interfere with free movement in the hallway.

If the dimensions of this shoe rack do not suit you, you can proportionally reduce or increase all the dimensions of the parts, having previously calculated how much space is needed to fit all the shoes.

Good luck to all home crafters!

The Count of Monte Cristo had 12 pairs of shoes for all occasions. Sir Henry Baskerville made do with 2 pairs of shoes for the summer, half of one was also stolen. These days, 20 pairs of shoes per family is not uncommon, but an apartment or house is not Baskerville Hall or a fairy-tale palace. High-quality shoes are expensive, but budget shoes must last at least a season to justify themselves. In this regard, the idea of making a shoe rack with your own hands becomes especially relevant.

The very concept of “shoe rack” appeared relatively recently to designate a complex that provides orderly storage of out-of-season shoes and proper maintenance of shoes worn every day. As you know, the durability and wearability of shoes largely depends on the latter. However, restrictions on trade markups do not apply to accessories for wearable items, and for a simple shoe cabinet a piece that a craftsman can easily make with his own hands, traders want up to 5,000 rubles. and more, although retail materials for it can cost 1500-2000 or less. How? That's what this article is for.

Old simplicity

The traditional, simplest and cheapest option for storing common shoes in the hallway is a 2-row floor shelf made of 6-10 mm plywood; for drawings see fig. on right. Shoes with high tops or berets (laced tops with tongues) are placed on the protruding part. This shoe rack is good for everyone, except for one thing: for 10 pairs you will have to give almost 0.5 square meters. m usable area. And what’s worse, the width of 400 mm is the minimum possible for such a design. What if the entire hallway is 1.25 m wide? Therefore, the main trend in the design of modern shoe racks is compactness due to elongation and the use of simple mechanisms.

Note: Depending on the availability of free space, a simple shoe rack can be made in other ways, see for example. track. video.

DIY shoe rack, making (video)

Now

The main module of a compact shoe rack is a cabinet for storing out-of-season shoes (item 1 in the photo) with compartments for shoes without high tops and with tops/tops. The first ones are usually made 3 (spring, summer, autumn), and one high, but those living outside the city need 4 low and 2 high compartments; “extra” for placing work shoes. They will not hurt in the city, for children's shoes.

A shoe rack in the hallway is complemented, if there is enough space, with a bench or banquette for ease of putting on/taking off shoes. It is advisable to make openwork shelves under the seat for drying shoes (item 2), but in general it is better to dry shoes, especially for country residents, in a separate dryer, see below.

If there is very little space, you can get by with a pouf instead of a bench. A single owner can fit shoes out of season under his seat (item 3), but the conditions for storing them in this case are not entirely favorable. It is better to keep shoe care accessories in a pouf (see the drawing on the right), and place the supply of shoes in a separate organizer, see below. If the now unnecessary shoes are still in the pouffe, its drawer for ventilation should be equipped with holes in the bottom, and vents should be cut out under the seat.

The width of the pouffe seat and a regular bench is approx. 400 mm. IN narrow hallway with them there is less space left to walk through than ergonomics require, and there’s also a clothes hanger right there. Therefore, the so-called petal shoe racks (item 4); shoes are stored in them in a vertical position on the shelves of folding trays, reinforced between the sector rotary sidewalls - petals. It is possible to make a petal-type shoe rack with a width of 250-260 mm: sitting down is enough, and in the hallway 1.25 m wide there is a passage of approx. 1 m, which is acceptable. In addition, the petal shoe rack provides good ventilation of the contents both with closed and open trays. And if you fold down the tray, the shoes dry in it better than on the shelves under the bench.

Due to their compactness and large capacity, petal shoe racks are often combined into monoblocks with other pieces of furniture for the hallway. A common option is a bedside table in the hallway with a shoe rack, pos. 5. With dimensions in plan (600-800) x (250-270) mm, it can accommodate the everyday shoes of a small family. If there is enough space (approx. 1.1 x 0.4 m in plan), the monoblock is supplemented with a seat (item 6).

If there is an unoccupied corner or niche in the hallway (which is not uncommon in old houses), then it is convenient to store shoes here in a carousel shoe rack, pos. 7. Dividing the contents into 4 seasons in the carousel shoe rack is achieved in the most natural way. To store winter shoes (boots, ankle boots), the shelves are partitioned asymmetrically, see fig. on right.

Note: A fairly spacious corner in the hallway deserves more than shoe storage. For example, see another video - how to equip a hallway corner cupboard with shoe compartment.

DIY wardrobe with shoe compartment (video)

Materials and connections

It is best to make a container for shoes from wood coniferous species or plywood. For maximum durability, dried shoes should be stored at room temperature and average (approx. 60-65%) humidity. But you can’t overdry shoes, especially budget ones made of leatherette; this often causes the uppers to crack. And over-drying will not benefit any other shoes, if only because the uppers with the markings of modern shoes are connected not with grit and nails, but with glue. Therefore, shoes are stored slightly damp. Porous wood will absorb excess water vapor, and if there is a lack of moisture in the air, it will release it. Wooden shoe rack - the only one reliable option storage of common shoes, if the box for them is blank, for example. in the pouf cabinet.

Properly dried shoes (see the end for more information on drying shoes and dryers for them) in a well-ventilated storage room can be stored immediately. In this case, the shoe rack can be made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 12 mm; for the face you can order more expensive, but also more spectacular MDF. Laminated chipboard for shoe racks should be taken of medium grades after the expiration of phenol-containing compounds (E1 or E2). “Children’s” laminated chipboard of class E0 is expensive and fragile, and cheap lower classes E3 and E4 emit too much phenolic resin vapor. They are no less harmful to shoe leather, synthetics and glue than they are to you and me. For the same reason, OSB is not suitable for shoe racks - it is a construction material. construction material, emitting excess phenol during construction.

Note: Shoe racks made of metal and plastic are made only open and freely ventilated. The reason is that while laminated chipboard breathes at least a little in step with the shoes, metal and plastic do not breathe at all.

As for the connections of the shoe rack parts, they can be any furniture type: on dowels, confirmations, corners/overlays, tenon, mitered, staples furniture stapler etc. In general, collect as you know how. For movable joints of petal shoe racks, see below.

How to make shoe racks

Petalaceae

Shoe racks with folding trays on petals are the most perfect, so let's start with them. The most, at first glance, complex (and expensive when buying a kit at retail) parts - side petals - can be made with your own hands from sheet metal or hard plastic with a thickness of 4 mm or more. You can also cut the petals out of plywood with a thickness of 6 mm, soak them twice and then dilute them twice acrylic varnish on water based. Impregnation is needed in this case to increase the rigidity of the part. The varnish is diluted with distilled (!) water.

Drawings of the petal shoe rack are shown in Fig. below. Each tray is 2-tier (spring-autumn and summer-house). For tall shoes you will have to add a locker, because... shoes with tops and ankle boots do not fit in the trays; This is perhaps the only drawback of petal shoe racks. The total height of one section H is taken from 300 mm. Upper and bottom gaps Between the tray cover and the front panel of the shoe rack, at least 6 mm is needed for ventilation. For the same purpose, the “sinus” pocket above the top tray should also be ventilated. To do this, a series of holes with a diameter of 40 mm or more are made at the top of the back wall of fiberboard or a gap is left. Ball locks or removable pins are installed in point A of the middle shelf (marked with a red arrow) so that the position of the middle shelf can be adjusted according to the contents.

The design and dimensions of this type of trays for storing shoes in a wall niche with a depth of only 200 mm are given in the following. rice. The peculiarity of this design is that the sockets of the rotary hinges (see below) are made simply in the form of holes in brackets made of steel angles, mounted from the inside on the front trim of the niche. The tilting clamps are also attached to them, if it is far from the side walls of the niche. In this design, the front cover of the tray can be as high as desired, so this version of the petal shoe rack can also be made for tall shoes. One condition is that the front trim of the niche must be strong enough, not fragile. Drywall, for example, is not suitable in this case.

Note: how to assemble it with your own hands narrow cabinet for shoes, see the master class below.

DIY shoe cabinet (video)

Hinges and clamps

In petal, and some other shoe racks (see below) with hinged doors, there is another, at first glance, tricky assembly unit - a rotary hinge. There seems to be no way other than buying it, but you can still make it yourself. You only need pieces of a thin-walled seamless tube, preferably brass - pieces of housings ballpoint pens, elbow connectors of old spinning rods, etc. The cases of some types of Cuban cigars are excellent, but the prices for them now are not good for the night. And the actual procedure for making a homemade hinge for a folding shoe tray is as follows:

Cut off lengths from the tube equal depth hinge sockets. Usually - 1/2-2/3 of the thickness of the side wall of the shoe rack, but not less than 10 mm. The walls behind the nest should remain at least 5-6 mm. These will be socket clips, you need 2 of them for each hinge..
Using a scraper (scraper, reamer), the same one used, say, when installing/dismantling air conditioner pipelines, we remove 0.25-0.35 mm chamfers from the inside of the clips.
We select bolts for the holders with a round head of such a diameter that they fit into the holder with a gap of up to 0.5 mm. We remove burrs on the heads of the bolts (if the slot is straight) with a needle file. If necessary, you can use sandpaper to adjust the head to the holder.
Use a Forstner drill to drill holes for the clips; It is advisable to take a drill of such a diameter (or select tubes for the clips) so that the clips fit tightly into the hole.
We press the clips into the holes. If they fit freely, you can glue them with any assembly adhesive on metal.
We install the bolts accordingly. holes in the petals, tighten with nuts and spring washers - the hinges are ready for assembly.

Storage

It is preferable to store shoes that are not worn for a long time in a stable favorable microclimate (see above). Also, a cabinet or cabinet for out-of-season shoes in another room is necessary if there is not enough space in the hallway. In general, it is undesirable to keep shoes that have not been worn for a long time in the hallway, especially in a private house, where through an open front door It can feel cold or damp.

Rack and cabinet

Schemes of an open rack for long-term storage of shoes and a more compact shoe cabinet with hinged doors are shown in Fig. above and below respectively. The rack provides optimal conditions long-term storage of up to 30 or more pairs of shoes, but requires approx. 0.6 sq. m area. With minimal ergonomics, this rack requires a dressing room of 6 square meters. m. The rack has no back wall; it is attached to the wall with steel corners and 6x70 self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. The material of the shelves and walls is board or chipboard 20 mm and timber 30x30 mm. Shelves, for better ventilation, from steel mesh on wooden frames.

Note: This rack is universal. High and low sections can be added to it in width and height without restrictions, as long as there is enough space. Due to the distribution of fastenings, the wall behind the rack may be weak, e.g. a partition made of foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks.

The shoe cabinet is more compact and fits in a passage with a width of 1.5 m. The length of the cabinet is up to 2 m. The shelves are of the same design as in the previous one. case; They are attached to the sidewalls with dowels, corners, in milled grooves or on regular shelf holders. The back wall is ventilated, like a petal shoe rack (see above). An option with ventilation almost like a rack - a cabinet without a back wall with a gap between the cabinet and the wall of 40 mm (the width of the floor plinth). Then assembling the cabinet according to the diagram on the bottom right in Fig. The lining at the back is made from the same board as the shelves with partitions.

Organizers

But what to do if there is no space at all for a shoe closet? In this case, an organizer for long-term storage of shoes that are not currently worn will help out. True, in furniture stores you will most likely be offered a special shoe organizer closet (item 1 in the figure), which, with the doors open, will take up somewhere from 2 square meters. m. But in haberdashery and clothing stores you can find an incomparably cheaper shoe organizer-suitcase made of fabric, pos. 2, fits under the bed. In addition, shoes breathe freely in it.

But you don’t even have to buy a suitcase organizer if you have one sufficient quantity shoe boxes. They are simply glued together, pos. 3. It is no more difficult for shoes to breathe in such an organizer, and it is easier to push it into the niche of the under-bed drawer. In this case, the soft organizer-suitcase often gets stuck.

A shoe organizer made of cardboard can also be glued together, for example. to the dacha, pos. 4. Designed with imagination, it can be completely in place in the apartment, if there is a suitable niche in the hallway, pos. 5. Then the cardboard shoe rack in the niche should be positioned in a spaced position so that the sides of the niche give rigidity to the entire product. For the same purpose, cardboard blanks are impregnated 2-3 times on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion or PVA diluted 2-3 times with water.

About drying and dryers

Wet shoes should be dried before storing them in a shoe rack or storage room. But – don’t buy electric shoe dryers for your home (see picture)! Their purpose is to quickly dry work shoes during business trips, field or expeditionary conditions, when you need to take over a shift or, say, go out for measurements minute by minute, and the cost of work shoes is included in advance in the estimate or current expenses.

Casual shoes cannot be dried from the inside, otherwise, even in expensive branded products it may expire before warranty period the top cracks or the sole peels off. In such cases, experts in branded stores immediately determine that, sorry, the case is not covered by warranty. Here you go - a methodological guide with pictures. You dried them the way it is written here, right?

Everyday shoes should be dried either in a tilted toes-down position (pos. 1 in the figure below), or, better yet, hanging (but not by the laces or on the pins/toes!) pos. 2 and 3, or, even better, from the sole side, pos. 4. Stylish dryer-organizer for shoes, pos. 2 is technologically not that difficult if you know how to handle sheet plastics or stainless metals.

However, the most effective absorption dryer is pos. 4: completely wet boots dry in it in 2-4 hours at room temperature! As you know, the faster wet shoes dry without additional heating, the longer they last.

The secret of absorption shoe drying is in the stone backfill and accuracy: before you put the shoes on the dryer, you need to wash them. Crushed stone for an absorption dryer needs dolomite or other stone made of sufficiently durable and chemically low-active stone with greater moisture absorption. Activated carbon(not pharmaceutical tablets!) or silica gel dry shoes even faster, but drying them later is no easier than restoring the box of an old coal gas mask. The best filling for an absorption shoe dryer is sea shell or rounded sea pebbles. The service life of winter and work shoes, if they are kept on such backfill for the entire season, in addition to the time of use, almost doubles.

In a small apartment, every centimeter counts! There is always a catastrophic lack of storage space here. The owners are constantly looking for solutions, looking for original ideas, which will help make your home more spacious, cozy and comfortable.

The hardest thing is for families with children, fashionistas, and young people who always want to look perfect. All these categories of people need a huge amount of shoes, for any weather, combined with all sets of clothes. And, in the end, the question: “Where to store all this?!” - it becomes very acute.

After all, shoes are seasonal item. You probably won't need sandals in winter. Remove what is not needed this moment shoes from the hallway. Leave here only what you are actively wearing at the moment.

It is most convenient to store shoes in transparent boxes. This way you will always see what is where, and you won’t have to spend a lot of time searching the right pair. If you want to avoid the financial costs of purchasing special boxes, you can print out an image of each pair and stick it on the desired cardboard box.

Without regret, throw away all unnecessary shoes that are worn out, too tight, not comfortable to wear, have disappointed you - in general, everything that you haven’t “walked” for a year or two. You'll be amazed at how much space you free up!

Many people are very annoyed by the huge number of different boxes and boxes. You can buy several large boxes on wheels: fold them into one winter shoes, in another - summer, in the third - demi-season. Inside each one, arrange partitions of different sizes. Now it is enough to pull out only one box and delve into it.

Shoes can be stored on a plastic-glazed balcony, provided there is low humidity and above-zero temperatures.

Solving a complex problem

In our case, the customer is a young man, not married (yet), who has a certain weakness for shoes, that is, he has a lot of them, but, as is usually the case, there is a shortage of storage space. You can also contact professional assembler furniture, but making a shoe rack with your own hands is not at all difficult.

As a result, it was decided to produce two narrow shoe racks. One is two compartments wider, the other is three narrower.

Obviously, for a small corridor it is better to make (order) shoe racks that are narrow, but at the same time quite high. So small hallway It won't look cluttered and all your shoes will fit.

In each of the compartments you can store low shoes in two rows. This is both a plus and a minus. The advantage is that the depth of such a cabinet is minimal, and the disadvantage is that it is impossible to accommodate high-top shoes, boots, etc.

To visually make the corridor larger, this is usually the most dark room in the apartment, choose light colors for decoration.

The dimensions of the cabinets were dictated by the available space. The color was chosen based on general design apartments - in unison. The buildings are “Wenge” color, the facades are “Milk Oak”.

Making shoe racks

1. Tool

drill (screwdriver)
drills with a diameter of 5 mm and 8 mm or a “confirmed” drill;
pencil, ruler (square, tape measure), awl, 4 mm hex key or screwdriver bit, hammer;
corner clamps, if you are assembling alone;
template for marking-drilling
Forstner drill 20 mm.

2. Project

We create a model in the PRO100 program (download for free). You can download the shoe rack model.

3. Details from laminated chipboard

Table with dimensions of shoe rack parts for two facades:

№	Length	Edge 0.4 mm	Width	Edge 0.4 mm	Quantity	Note
laminated chipboard
1	379	2	483	2	2	facade
2	520	2	300	2	1	edge 2 mm, cover
3	778	1	290	-	2	side walls
3	488	1	60	-	2	screeds
3	520	1	290	2	1	bottom

Table with dimensions of shoe rack parts for three facades:

№	Length	Edge 0.4 mm	Width	Edge 0.4 mm	Quantity	Note
laminated chipboard
1	379	2	353	2	3	facade
2	390	2	300	2	1	edge 2 mm, cover
3	1165	1	290	-	2	side walls
3	358	1	60	-	2	screeds
3	390	1	290	2	1	bottom

Table with dimensions of fiberboard parts:

4. Fittings

To assemble the shoe rack you will need:

№	Name	Quantity
1	Euroscrew (confirmed)	16 pcs
2	Pens	5 pieces
3	Screws 3.5x16	50 pcs
4	Shoe rack mechanism	5 pieces
5	Decorative supports, H-60 mm	8 pcs

5. Assembly

Marking the sides of the cabinet body

Mark and drill the bottom of the cabinet body

With help corner clamps we fix the body parts, drill them and twist them onto the confirmat

Installing cabinet supports

Installing the cabinet cover

We fix the back wall with 3.5x16 screws

Similarly, we assemble the body of the shoe rack into three facades

According to the markings made earlier, we drill holes for the shoe rack mechanism

For assembly rotary mechanisms under shoe shelves You will need a 20mm Forstner drill bit.

Here, I’m sharing my impressions of making a folding shoe rack for the hallway. I purchased the accessories for 50 rubles. per set. But I had to tinker with the rest... I'll tell you the story of its creation.

The mechanism of folding shoe racks is new to me, so I immediately went on the Internet to look for additive diagrams (looking ahead, I will say that I still found a normal additive, but this was after the product was manufactured, and therefore this will be covered in a separate article). We weren't able to dig up anything particularly meaningful. First I found this diagram. And I was happy...

But I still had a problem with the calculations, so the search continued and I found this file" " . Here I completely relaxed and, rubbing my hands, did not compare both of these schemes. I stupidly took the dimensions, put together a project based on them, adjusted the dimensions to the required room and sent them to cutting. As practice has shown, I got excited.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that in the posted project, as well as in the detailing, the dimensions have already been corrected.

Project details attached

Part name	Length	Edge	Width	Edge	Qty
Retractable facade 16 mm	156	= =	464	= =	1
Folding facade 16 mm	371	= =	464	= =	2
16 mm post	940	- -	292		2
drawer front/back 16 mm	98		410	- -	2
drawer side 16 mm	98		250	- -	2
Tsar 16 mm	468	= =	120		1
Horizons 16 mm	500	- -	292	= =	2
Detail under the fronts 16 mm	468	- -	23		1
shoe rack 10 mm	453	= =	86		2
shoe rack 10 mm	453	= =	136		4
Drawer bottom fiberboard	442		250		1
fiberboard back wall	484		956		1

The edge used is 0.4 mm. If you change by 2 mm, you will definitely need to narrow the facades.
The back wall is made “In the groove”, if you are going to make an invoice, you need to expand it in each direction by 16 mm.

So, the parts are sawed and piled up. We select the racks from them and begin the additive. Most important point. There is no way to make a mistake here, because closing 20 mm holes later will be problematic. We start marking from the lower front corner of the rack. According to the filler pattern, I marked the hole for the axle.

23 mm is a part under the facade so that the mechanism does not rest against the bottom. 7 mm - gap. Another 7 mm is an empirical value that is on the diagram, but its size is not labeled. I took 2 mm from the diagram, 44 was obtained by adding 28 mm from the diagram to the thickness of the facade of 16 mm.

In the resulting location, I drilled a 20 mm blind hole with a depth of 10-12 mm.

We press a plastic insert element into this hole.

We mark the border of the facade, set aside 7 mm from it and repeat the manipulations with both posts.

Please note that both posts have a groove selected for the back wall of the fiberboard.

We mark the guides for drawer. For example, on the side wall of the box I set aside 40 mm from the bottom, which means on the stand of the box I set aside 50 mm from the bottom border of the drawer front. 55 mm on this line is 37 mm (fixed size for ball guide + inset front thickness 16 mm).

We fit and install the remaining holes and fittings. The horizons are attached to the posts from below with confirmats, and from above - with minifixes.

After this, we begin assembling the box: we attach the lower horizon, put the back wall in the groove, and install the upper horizon. We mount the under-facade part (I simply screwed it in with three screws from the bottom so that nothing would split and there would be no confirmation plugs on the sides).

After this, we move on to assembling the folding elements themselves. The planks are attached with self-tapping screws at the end (it is advisable to first drill holes for them so as not to split anything).. First, I assembled the baskets and decided to screw the facades to them, but that was not the case - it was impossible to get to the mounting holes, I had to partially disassemble and attach the facade and collect again.

I would advise you to start with the facades. Mark the mounting holes. I didn’t have a diagram for them, so I had to use the good old “Scientific Poke” method. The values turned out to be as follows. By the way, they are not far from the truth (see the article about the correct additive - will come a little later)

We place the mechanism on the facade and fix it with six self-tapping screws.
All that remains is to put the shoe racks in place and screw on the handle and the shelf can be mounted in the box.

To install in the box, simply insert assembled mechanism inside, position it opposite the previously drilled 20 mm holes, insert the axles into them and hammer them in with a hammer. Immediately drill with an 8 mm drill and install a stop pin. To do this, you need to retreat 172 mm from the axis, and 34 mm from the edge of the rack.

Our bedside table is gradually starting to take on a finished look.

We do exactly the same manipulations with the second shoe rack. Then we move on to assembling the drawer. This process has already been discussed many times and we will not dwell on it.

All that remains is to put it in the designated niche. Screw the handle to the facade and set it to " ".

We screw additional magnetic latches into the box and strike plates to the facade.
That's it, the work is finished. I bought a nightstand like this appearance. I would like to note a small drawback - a mismatch in the texture of the facades. To correct this, it was necessary to place them on the sheet as they should be mounted, or to make the drawing horizontal.