The floor in the garage is no less important part of the building than the walls. Whether the floor can withstand the load of the vehicle’s weight depends on the correct technological solution and proper installation. This article discusses ways to make a garage floor with your own hands.

Peculiarities

Garage floors have different requirements than subfloors in homes. Garage decking is different mechanical strength. Resistance of the coating to repeated mechanical impacts from heavy vehicles must be ensured by choosing the right material and special installation technique. Each contact of a large vehicle can cause mechanical damage. The garage often contains shelves with heavy items, creating additional stress on the floor.

Another important feature of garage flooring is resistance to fuels and lubricants. The floor covering should not be susceptible to chemical pollution. As a rule, a car uses many different types of caustic and flammable materials - antifreeze, special oil, cleaners. The contact of these substances on the floor should not cause destruction of the coating.

The choice of flooring for a garage is significantly different from the material for cladding a living room.

The garage floor must have reliable fire protection. Options for using wood are acceptable provided additional processing tree. The application of special mastic is necessary, since the floor often interacts with flammable materials. If it is not possible to purchase necessary funds, then preference should be given to another type of material.

It is important to remember that after treatment the surface should not have a strong chemical smell, because ventilation in the garage is difficult.

Moisture resistance- another one distinguishing characteristic floor in the garage. Cars cause constant contact of the coating with water and snow. The material must be protected from rotting under the influence of dampness. This is another reason why you shouldn’t stop choosing wooden structure. Concrete floors can withstand increased moisture.

An unreinforced floor may rot and no longer withstand increased mechanical load.

Constant temperature changes should not have a negative impact on the floor covering. The material must withstand critical freezing or heating. It is possible to install a water or electric heated floor in the garage, but such a solution is not always advisable. The power source for such a system must be connected to the central heating system of the house. Otherwise, you will need to compile independent project, which is not entirely rational for such a room.

On the market finishing materials for arranging the floor in the garage, you can select following materials:ceramic tiles, polymers, rubber tiles, wooden panels, concrete. Each of the listed materials has a certain set of mechanical characteristics and installation features.

The choice of material should be made taking into account the characteristics of the room and its functional purpose.

Kinds

Wooden flooring in most cases they are used for cladding residential premises. However, if properly processed, this material can also be used in the construction of garage floors. The boards are environmentally friendly and have good thermal insulation. In addition, wooden floors have an aesthetic appearance and add aristocracy to the interior.

Painting or varnishing the boards will protect the coating from water and dampness.

The main disadvantage of wooden flooring is its inability to withstand prolonged critical loads. Such a floor quickly deforms under the weight of cars, and therefore requires frequent updating. The coating must be changed every five years. Installing such a floor is not recommended for those who are not willing to spend extra money and time on maintaining a garage. Wood supports combustion well, so if a fire occurs, the chance of saving the room is minimal.

It is important to know that the wooden covering is laid on a soil base. The laid surface must be additionally primed and painted. Before installation, each panel must be dried and treated with an antiseptic. These measures will increase the service life of the tree and protect it from harmful chemical influences.

Concrete floor has become widespread due to its reliability and long service life. This coating does not require frequent updating and is also easy to use. After hardening, the cement mortar becomes insensitive to water, so it can be easily cleaned with direct streams of water. The coating can withstand critical loads without damage.

To install a concrete floor, you need to purchase cement, fine and coarse aggregate, as well as reinforcement to strengthen the coating. All components have a low cost, so owners with a small budget prefer to lay a concrete floor. Crushed stone is chosen as a coarse aggregate, and sand plays the role of a fine component. Reinforcement of the concrete screed is carried out metal mesh with a cross section of about ten millimeters.

The main disadvantage of the screed is that during operation it generates a lot of dust. To avoid constant cleaning of the room, craftsmen recommend covering the surface with paint. Cement floors are often used as rough surface for subsequent laying of tiles or wood flooring. Laying ceramics requires additional marking and work.

Concrete floors do not conduct heat well, so the surface will always be cold. This can be fixed by installing a heating cable.

Ceramic tile It has a high cost and requires a lot of time and labor for installation. When installing the floor in an unheated room, porcelain stoneware should be used. Such tiles are frost-resistant and can withstand cooling up to critical temperature. The fragments are fixed using special construction glue. The porcelain tile floor must be laid as a level surface without any difference in height.

Latest solution for installing a covering in a garage - self-leveling epoxy floor. This type of base differs from its analogues in increased wear resistance. The floor is resistant to chemicals, so it will preserve perfect surface throughout the entire service life. The coating does not require special care and does not create excess dust during operation. Resin flooring is different high quality, strength and reliability.

IN liquid composition can add decorative elements, creating an unusual pattern on the floor surface. Color pigments will not reduce the quality of the material. The surface does not fade under direct sunlight, maintaining its original color throughout its entire service life. At high-quality installation such a coating will look like liquid glass.

Epoxy floors are airtight, so they are recommended to be placed in conditions of high humidity. Polymers are resistant to sudden temperature changes.

A significant disadvantage of epoxy coating is its high price. Self-leveling floor requires concrete rough foundation. The cost is due to the environmentally friendly composition. The floors do not emit harmful chemicals, which is a guarantee of safety for the health of residents. The service life of such a floor with minimal time and effort spent on cleaning can reach 50 years.

Modular PVC tile floors are characterized by safety and long service life. This flooring consists of several layers. A layer of fiberglass is laid on a solid base to maintain the rigidity of the product. Next comes the color layer. Depending on the cost of the slab, the pattern on the surface can be anything. So, some owners order PVC with interesting 3D effects. The final layer is protective.

Craftsmen advise purchasing polyvinyl chloride slabs. This floor has high technical characteristics and does not require special skills for installation. Installing tiles is not much different from laying ceramic mosaics. A damaged fragment can be easily dismantled and replaced without the need to remove the entire layer.

Thanks to a wide range of sizes, modular tiles will fit well in small spaces.

A special feature of PVC tiles is the presence of special protrusions on the edges of the parts. Due to these protrusions, the panels adhere to each other. The coating does not require the use of construction adhesive for fixation. The puzzle pieces are securely fixed to each other. The seams of this floor are practically invisible.

A good alternative to polymer flooring - corrugated steel panel decking. The surface is able to withstand long-term loads from large vehicles without deforming under the weight of the load. The metal floor does not create excess dust, so it is easy to clean. Thanks to the ribbed coating, maximum surface roughness is achieved. The metal can withstand impacts from heavy objects without cracking or deforming.

Steel floor has significant value. Increased impact resistance allows you to achieve maximum service life of the coating. Such “heavy-duty” floors are more wear-resistant than their polymer counterparts. Laying a corrugated floor does not require special skills, but it is impossible to freely cut the puzzle pieces.

It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the floor in advance and order tiles taking into account the dimensions of the room.

Garage flooring made from asphalt crumbs Provides good tire grip on the surface. Crushed stone or brick chips are used both for cladding the surface around the building and for laying the floor inside. It is important to understand that asphalt can only be laid correctly using a roller. The base is first filled with crushed stone, which must be compressed. The use of construction equipment will allow you to get a smooth and reliable floor in the garage.

The main advantage of this coating is its resistance to chemical influences. Asphalt can withstand sudden temperature changes. It is important to understand that such a coating cannot be laid in cold period of the year. Otherwise, the coating will crack under the influence of temperature fluctuations. The cost of this coating is small, but it is better to entrust the installation to road construction specialists. This coating will reliably last for many years.

Surface preparation

As a rough covering, the easiest to install and most affordable is a concrete floor. Primer cement-sand screed easy to do with your own hands. Concrete material can be used as the main floor if there is a need to save money. The rough coating can be obtained in several ways. Among them are laying reinforced concrete slabs and pouring cement screed.

The first method of organizing the foundation requires special construction equipment. It is impossible to lay a concrete slab on your own - its weight will not allow you to complete the work without the help of a team of specialists. Laying the slab will require high material costs, but will save time.

Pouring a concrete screed is quite cheap, but labor-intensive. To properly lay and process the surface, you need to spend a lot of time.

The screed cannot be poured on sloping areas. A slope in laying the cement surface is unacceptable. In this case, it is necessary to use a reinforced concrete slab as a rough surface. If you want to install a heated floor in the garage, then a screed is a must. A wooden structure on joists is suitable for laying floors in a bathhouse or residential premises, but will collapse under the influence of loads from a car.

Before direct pouring, it is necessary to remove the top soil layer from the surface. Next, the surface is coated with clay and covered with a layer of aggregate - crushed stone, sand and gravel. Afterwards, a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene with a thickness of no more than 200 microns is laid. Roofing material is also suitable for these purposes. The film is overlapped, its edges are secured with construction tape. At the junction of walls and floors, the edges of the film must be raised.

Reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the waterproofing. Reinforcement will help provide the necessary strength and rigidity of the future surface. Next, you can begin pouring the concrete screed. During the laying process, the surface must be leveled with special spatulas - this will facilitate grinding after the cement has dried.

Floors must be left for at least 4 weeks to completely cure. The laid surface is covered with a protective film and periodically wetted during the drying process.

The concrete base must be thoroughly cleaned after drying. The main disadvantage of concrete is its weak top layer. A clean coating quickly wears out and becomes unusable. The screed absorbs oils and other chemicals well, which negatively affects the coating. Therefore, craftsmen recommend not completing the installation of the garage floor at the stage of pouring the screed. It is better to lay tiles or metal covering on the resulting base. This way the concrete will be protected and last much longer.

Installation

To make a wooden floor with your own hands, you must first treat the boards with a special protective agent and leave for several days. Humidity wooden covering before installation, it must match the air humidity in the room. To achieve this result, wooden panels must be laid out around the perimeter of the room. If the beams lie on top of each other, then the wood may not receive the required moisture. This may cause the floor to warp after installation. To eliminate the defects, repairs will be required with a complete replacement of the damaged board.

You can lay the wood on a pre-cleaned, primed concrete screed. The log beams are installed on the screed in increments of 100-200 cm. In order for the boards to hold, they must be fixed with dowels every half meter. The pitch of intermediate logs is 400 millimeters. Wooden base it is necessary to cover it with a layer of waterproofing.

A small gap must be left between the protective film and the wall to ensure floor ventilation.

You need to lay boards on top of the insulation - the finishing coating for a wooden floor. The panels are nailed perpendicular to the joists to properly distribute the load on the structure. In order for the coating to withstand heavy loads, the boards must be at least 4 centimeters thick. Antiseptics and paint are applied to the finished surface. These techniques help preserve the coating from the effects of chemicals.

Ceramic tiles are also laid on rough concrete base. The wear resistance class of the ceramic material should be about 5. Before laying the tiles, the screed is primed twice and cleaned of dust. Construction adhesive for fixing the mosaic is prepared in advance and left for some time.

This procedure is necessary to increase the adhesive properties of the material. The glue is applied both to the ceramic fragment and to the concrete surface.

The width of the gap at the joints of the tiles should be the same throughout the entire masonry. The joint is adjusted using a plastic cross-shaped spacer. The evenness of the surface is checked with a laser level. It is important to ensure that adhesive composition did not get on the front surface of the ceramic. Contaminants must be removed on site: the surface is difficult to clean from hardened glue. For the tiles to dry completely, it is enough to wait about 3 days.

The joints must be treated with a special grout. The product contains cement. Due to the binder's immunity to water, the seams are reliably protected from the influence of moisture. The mixture must be applied using a silicone spatula, excess material must be removed. The time for complete drying of the solution in domestic conditions reaches 30 minutes. Afterwards, the tiles must be sanded with a wet sponge and the coating must be left for another two weeks.

Concrete screed plays the role of a rough covering for the installation of a self-leveling floor. To properly finish the perimeter with an epoxy mixture, it is necessary to achieve ideal flat surface screeds. Any cracks or imperfections must be repaired as the polyurethane mixture is translucent. Mixing the mortar for filling the floor is carried out in a room with a temperature of no lower than 10 and no more than 25 degrees.

Filling is performed in several approaches. If desired, coloring pigments are added to the composition. To eliminate air bubbles, pass over the surface with a needle roller. The procedure for laying such a coating is simple and does not require specialist supervision. The poured floor needs at least three weeks to dry completely.

Waterproofing

The concrete base can allow groundwater to pass through. During use, wet spots will begin to appear on the floor without a protective layer. It is impossible to remove them from the surface. To prevent the coating from getting wet, it will be necessary to remove finishing layer and lay waterproofing. Floors should also be protected from external moisture. For example, when snow melts from the surface of tires or when washing a car.

The first stage in installing waterproofing is backfilling. gravel bed. Small rounded particles act as drainage and therefore remove water from the surface. Moisture does not stagnate and does not cause the floor to rot. The thickness of the pillow should reach 100 millimeters. After laying the surface, it is necessary to repeatedly walk with a roller to compact the layer.

Next, the gravel is covered with sand. This is necessary to ensure that excess moisture does not accumulate on the concrete base of the foundation. Sand is able to absorb moisture and prevent corrosion of concrete. The layer of sand backfill should reach one centimeter and be well compacted. Before directly laying a concrete slab or pouring a screed, it is necessary to lay polyethylene.

Waterproofing material is also laid after pouring concrete and laying reinforcement. Polyethylene helps reduce water evaporation from the concrete mass. This technique helps to increase the service life of the base. The reinforced concrete pad with a layer of insulation must dry for several weeks. The subfloor can be laid only after the base has completely dried.

The screed slope should vary between 1.5 and 2 percent. The ramp is directed towards the garage door. Thanks to this design, excess water will spontaneously drain from the surface of the garage floor.

Among the waterproofing materials used to protect garage flooring, roofing felt, protective films and membranes. The coating is fixed using hot mastic. The adhesive provides additional protection against water. The walls can also be coated with a protective mixture to a height of up to 20 centimeters from the floor level. Liquid rubber can only be applied to surfaces without visible defects.

Polymer film It has a fairly low price, and you can fasten it together with simple tape. For regions with predominantly low temperatures, craftsmen advise installing penetrating insulation. It is important to remember that waterproofing layers can be raised to a height of 15 centimeters to the wall.

Heating

Insulation should be selected based on regulatory documents. The recommended air temperature in the garage should reach +5 degrees. As the temperature rises, air condensation in the room increases. High humidity can negatively affect the safety of the car.

You can insulate a wooden floor with boards 5 centimeters thick. The step between the base logs should not exceed 50 centimeters. Otherwise, the floor will deform under the load from the car. A concrete floor without joists can be insulated by simply wooden flooring.Larch panels are suitable for constructing such a base. Wood has the ability to retain heat, so such flooring will significantly increase the temperature in the room.

The thickness of the concrete screed above the insulation should be about 100 millimeters. The insulating material under the screed must be resistant to deformation. The foundation soil and garage foundation are always subject to requirements for additional reinforcement.

Hygroscopic samples are produced among insulation materials. Such coatings protect on both sides from moisture penetration. However, even such a coating requires waterproofing.

In today's market building materials You can purchase the following insulation:

• Expanded clay. This material is low cost. Its installation requires preliminary excavation of a pit, because the thickness of such insulation can reach 45 centimeters. Expanded clay is a loose mixture, so it will need to be leveled during installation. Beacons are used for these purposes.
• Styrofoam. This type of insulation is laid on a concrete slab and serves as a good basis for pouring screed. The density of such material should be no lower than c-25, and it is better to take the thickness of the slab about 10 centimeters. It is not recommended to leave gaps between insulation panels.
• Foam under the plank base significantly different from the analogue for concrete screed. The density of such sheets can be any. The dimensions of the plate can be 50x500x1000 millimeters. Craftsmen recommend purchasing additional vapor barrier material to protect the wood from excess moisture.

The choice of material largely depends on the financial capabilities of the owners. Craftsmen recommend installing a concrete base for all types of finishing coatings. Concrete is a good base and better withstands critical mechanical loads. A slab or screed will serve as a good floor even without final finishing. There is no cheaper or more reliable option today.

However, it is better to additionally coat the screed with paint so that it retains its smoothness for a long time.

A durable base is guaranteed by the porcelain stoneware coating. It is important to remember that compliance with installation technology requires the intervention of qualified specialists with construction equipment. Such option will do to someone who is willing to spend a sufficient amount on installing a floor in the garage. Porcelain tile coating looks aesthetically pleasing; craftsmen recognize it as the most durable. The cost of laying the material pays off over a long service life.

When choosing tiles for masonry, preference should be given to polymers. Ceramic mosaic with a complex pattern is inappropriate in this room. The cost of such tiles is many times higher than their rubber and plastic counterparts. Preference should be given to rubber fragments, which are no less easy to install and operate. Polymers do not require special treatment of seams. The joints of some coatings are invisible, which creates the illusion of a monolithic coating.

A warm water or electric floor will not the best solution for the garage. You should choose materials that are easy to use and relatively cheap. It is important to understand what characteristics the future coating should have and how often it will be replaced. A wooden floor is suitable for lovers of environmentally friendly products, but you need to be prepared to change the panels after 5 years of use. Stone-like tiles look expensive, but are not appropriate. It is important to choose a coating with sufficient roughness.

Beautiful examples

Before making a choice, you can get acquainted with the preferences of other people. This will help avoid mistakes or help create interesting option floor.

Polymer fragments with fine relief create the effect of a repeating pattern. This option is perfect for installing a floor in a small garage. The dark rubber coating goes well with the light wall covering. The neat seams of the tiles are coated with a dark compound that does not stand out against the general background of the floor. An important feature is that the tiles are laid seam-to-seam without shifts, so there is no visual curvature of the space.

Another option for using rubber panels is to alternate colors in a checkerboard pattern. The combination of red with white or black looks bright, but at the same time minimalistic. This solution is perfect for owners of large garages. Wide colored fragments add zest to the room.

For such a floor, it is necessary to use wall cladding in neutral shades. Light paint or plaster will be an excellent complement to a bright base. The room is filled with air and light, which is uncharacteristic of the typical idea of ​​garage decoration. The seamless connection of the tiles creates an interesting flowing effect.

Stone fragments with white seams look massive and elegant at the same time. Clarity and accuracy of execution is a distinctive feature of this room. Nice Brown color goes well with light walls. The ceramic masonry is duplicated by the wall covering.

Ceramics on the walls not only serve as a visual continuation of the floor, creating the illusion of depth. Tiles protect light walls from pollution. The surface is easy to clean and does not require extra effort. Wooden shelves and cabinets match the color of the floor. The image turns out to be curtained, without unnecessary clutter.

The floor paved with concrete mosaic looks unusual. Mixing masonry creates a play of shapes. This technique revives gray room, adds some elegance to it. The alternation of ordered masonry with a chaotic arrangement of fragments does not create dissonance. This is achieved by using material of the same color.

Such a floor will withstand even the most critical load, because it is close to the structure of the streets. The paving will be combined with rough wall cladding. It is important to understand that such a floor will always be cold, since stone does not conduct heat well. This garage is great for storing your car, but it will be difficult to work in in cold weather.

Plank flooring is suitable for connoisseurs of the texture of natural materials. The panels create an ideal covering. The room is pleasant to work in because it is filled with light. Such a garage is more suitable for setting up a workshop. The boards are coated with varnish, which not only protects the surface, but also gives it a beautiful shine.

A budget wooden floor retains the natural smell of wood. As you can see, the connection of wood panels is almost seamless. The boards are laid parallel to each other. The geometry of the room is not disturbed and due to this arrangement of logs it is visually lengthened. This option is perfect for a small garage.

A distinctive feature of this interior is the richly colored epoxy floor. Due to the installation technology and coating features, the floor acquires a glass shine and solidity.

Choosing garage flooring can sometimes become a challenging task for the car enthusiast. It’s important not to make a mistake here, so that you don’t have to reinstall a floor that has become completely unusable after a year. And there are many reasons for its damage. These include increased loads from the weight of the car, exposure to aggressive fuels and lubricants, and difficult temperature and humidity conditions.

Which floor is better to make in the garage?

There are plenty of flooring options to choose from. What does the construction market offer for these purposes?

Made from concrete

Most often, garage owners do not think twice and opt for the traditional option - concrete. This option is inexpensive, durable, and can withstand harsh operating conditions. Cracks and potholes that sometimes appear on concrete surface due to frost heaving and mechanical damage (for example, if a hammer falls on the floor), they usually do not cause much dissatisfaction among car enthusiasts.

Video: installing a concrete floor

However, its ability to produce excessive dust, which settles on all surfaces of the garage, including the car, is considered a serious drawback. In addition, all kinds of chemical pollutants are quickly and easily absorbed into concrete, forming indelible, unsightly stains. Even worse, sometimes these stains cause an unpleasant odor.

The concrete floor in the garage can be used in its “pure” form or as a base for a finishing floor covering.

Special paint will make the concrete floor more convenient to use, more durable and, most importantly, give it some aesthetics. After painting, it stops producing dust and suffers less from mechanical damage. This finishing method is most often used in the garage. And not only due to its low cost, but also due to the fact that it is easy to apply the paint yourself, using any paint tool: brush, roller, sprayer.

Concrete paint can be used to mark the boundaries of parking spaces in a garage for several cars.

Bulk

In order to improve an ordinary concrete floor in a garage, modern self-leveling mixtures are ideal. These compositions are usually two-component, containing a polymer resin and a hardener. When applied in liquid form to a surface, an absolutely flat, wear-resistant, impact-resistant and frost-resistant base is formed. All these advantages will manifest themselves fully only with a certain base thickness - at least 5 mm.

Self-leveling floors boast not only their practicality, but also their beauty. Their aesthetics are up to par. This is a perfectly smooth, glossy or matte finish that can be painted in different colors. Along with plain coatings, they are becoming very popular self-leveling coatings with an image.

A bright self-leveling floor dictates the design of the garage

Ceramic tile

Durable garage floors can be achieved by covering the concrete base with ceramic tiles. Of course, the first tile you come across will not be suitable for this. If you decide to save money and use the tiles left after renovating your kitchen, you will soon be disappointed. The ceramic coating will become covered with a network of cracks, and when frost sets in, it will simply fall off from the base.

Only certain types of ceramic tiles should be used:

• Porcelain tile is an alloy of granite chips with clay and some other fillers. This material is very similar in appearance and characteristics to natural stone. Accordingly, porcelain tiles have high strength, frost resistance, and resistance to chemical aggressive environments.
• Clinker tiles are ceramics that have undergone prolonged firing at high temperatures. In this case, the resulting material acquires properties such as exceptional strength and frost resistance.
• Ceramic floor tiles are frost-resistant tiles designed for outdoor use, also suitable for the garage. Choose a product with an anti-slip surface - it will protect you from accidental falls.

Porcelain tiles are particularly durable and frost-resistant

PVC boards

This is modern flooring material in the form of separate modules. Made from durable, chemical-resistant polyvinyl chloride. Excellent frost resistance allows them to be used both in heated and unheated garages, as well as outdoors. The PVC surface does not slip, you can pour buckets of water on it (when washing a car) and not be afraid of falling if you move carelessly. It absorbs vibration and is resistant to loads and mechanical damage.

PVC boards are easy to install. To do this, you do not need to use adhesives - the plates are equipped with special locks that allow you to assemble the coating, like a construction set. If necessary, all this can just as easily be disassembled into its component parts and laid out in another place.

PVC boards do not burn and are not affected by acids and alkalis. Therefore, they are ideal for garages used as repair shops.

Wood

And for car enthusiasts who prefer everything environmentally friendly, we recommend making wooden floors in the garage. They are absolutely safe, they are not a source of dust or harmful substances. This solution is not as popular as previous methods, but also has a right to life. Boards that have become unusable can be easily repaired or replaced with new ones. And the total cost of plank floors is mere pennies.

Of course, wood floors have their disadvantages. The most important of them is short service life. After 4-5 years of operation, even with perfect waterproofing and proper care, the plank floorboards will begin to rot. But, as we noted above, damaged boards can be easily replaced with new ones.

Wooden floors are short-lived, but cheap and environmentally friendly

The above floor coverings are not all that can be used in the garage. We have provided only the most popular solutions for you. There are others. For example, the cheapest option is a regular earthen floor, and one of the most expensive is made of natural stone. However, these are all extremes. Choose a floor based on your wallet, but don’t forget about quality. Remember that not only its own durability, but also the safety of your car will depend on a high-quality, correctly laid coating.

The floor in the garage receives as much attention as the rest of the building. It must be durable to withstand the weight of the car, as well as protected from dust and moisture. There are several ways to build a garage floor. A concrete floor is considered a classic of the genre. In addition to it, earthen, self-leveling, wooden and tiled floors are constructed. Each option has advantages and disadvantages. To make your choice and make the floor with your own hands, you need to study the information in detail.

How to make a smooth earthen surface

An option from the “cheap and cheerful” category. There are no financial costs. However, when simple device it has low strength and poor moisture resistance. Suitable for infrequent use or as a temporary floor covering.

1. After marking the area under the base of the garage, remove the layer of soil with vegetation.
2. After pouring the base, the area is leveled and cleared.
3. The future floor is well compacted using the tamping method.
4. After installing the roof, a 100-mm layer of clay, preferably thicker, is poured onto the compacted surface.
5. The entire base is carefully compacted again. And the floor is ready.

It is not necessary to use clay. But it’s better to add it to increase the strength of the floor and protect it from moisture.

Pouring a concrete floor

The most popular floor covering. Concrete floors are durable, fire-resistant, and have a long service life. Plus, it is not afraid of oil, solvent, gasoline and other chemicals. When properly installed, it is resistant to moisture penetration. The process of constructing a concrete pavement is quite lengthy and labor-intensive, but not technologically complex. The floor is constructed when the garage is already built, but interior decoration Not yet.

The correct inspection hole for the car

An optional item in the garage, used for self-inspection, vehicle repair and oil changes. The main condition for creating an inspection hole is the depth of groundwater - no higher than 2.5 meters. It is usually located in the center of the garage.

1. Dig a pit for an inspection hole 750–800 millimeters wide (+ 300 millimeters for waterproofing material), length equal to length car (+ 150 centimeters) and a depth equal to the height of the garage owner (+ 300 millimeters). The walls of the pit pit are made smooth and vertical.
2. It is good to compact the bottom and pour a small layer of clay on it, which is also compacted.
3. Cover the bottom and walls of the pit with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.
4. Pour 70–100 millimeters of concrete, level it and let it harden.
5. After this, they begin laying the walls of the pit using red brick or aerated concrete blocks. The first row is laid out strictly below the level.
6. The walls are not erected separately, but all at the same time. A gap of 150–200 millimeters wide is left between the masonry and the walls of the pit. When laying rows, the vertical seams are shifted, which will make the walls stronger. Periodically check the verticality of the masonry with a building level. The laying is completed 60–70 millimeters from the threshold level.
7. A pre-primed frame made of a metal corner is installed on the top row of masonry, flush with the floor surface.
8. After this hardening of the masonry, waterproof the pit from the outside. Using a thick roller, coat the surface of the masonry with primer and allow to dry. Using the same roller, apply heated bitumen mastic to the walls. After it has dried, fill the free space between the masonry and the wall of the inspection pit with soil in layers. Compact each layer well.

Marking

Using a laser or water level, mark the future floor (a standard construction level is not suitable for this procedure). Laser level will allow this operation to be carried out much faster, but with the water one you will have to work hard:

1. Measure 100 centimeters up from the threshold and make a mark with a pencil.
2. Place one end of the level against the mark and lean the other against the adjacent wall. The water level in the tube will indicate where to place the next mark.
3. Using the same method, apply two or three marks on all walls.
4. Measure 102 centimeters downwards from each top beacon and mark with a pencil.
5. Mark the marking line using a coated cord and, accordingly, determine the required floor level.

Preparation for concreting

Concrete waterproofing, reinforcement and beacons

How to pour a screed: calculation of material and technology

1. Calculate the amount of solution required. To do this, multiply the area of ​​the base by 5 (the height of the concrete screed) and divide by 100. You will get the number of cubic meters of the required solution. It is prepared in a ratio of 1:3 from cement grade M400 or M500 and sand, respectively. Instead of sand, granite screening is suitable.
2. Mix the solution thoroughly until smooth. Ideally, use a concrete mixer.
3. Pour the mixture onto the base. It should cover the beacons.
4. Level the surface according to the rule.
5. After a couple of days, carefully remove the beacons, and fill the remaining grooves with concrete mixture.
6. During the first 10–12 days, the surface must be constantly moistened to avoid cracks. The concrete will harden completely in about a month.

Ceramic tile finishing

This type of flooring has a number of undoubted advantages. It has an aesthetic appearance, is easy to clean, produces very little dust, is durable and strong. However, there are also disadvantages - high-quality material is expensive, and the floor can be finished with it only after the garage has completely settled, approximately 2 years after its construction. To install a garage floor, the tiles must have a wear resistance class of 5 or higher. In the absence of heating, choose frost-resistant products.

1. Remove dust from the surface of the concrete screed and prime it in two layers.
2. Prepare the tile adhesive according to the instructions and let it sit.
3. Apply a little glue to the back of the tile. Using a notched trowel, spread the bulk of the glue over the floor. Place the tiles on the floor surface and press gently. To maintain the same width of seams between adjacent elements, insert cross-shaped spacers made of plastic.
4. Periodically check the levelness with a building level.
5. Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the elements. Otherwise, wipe it off immediately, as it will be difficult to do later. Leave the tiles to dry for 3 days.
6. Start grouting the joints. This is done using a special composition based on cement. Moisten the joints and apply the mixture using a narrow rubber spatula. Gently but vigorously remove excess material. Allow the solution to dry for 30 minutes, then wash the tiles with a wet sponge.
7. After 2 weeks you can put the car in the garage.

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor in the garage

The high cost of this flooring is fully justified by the quality. This floor will serve you for at least 40 years. It is durable, easy to clean, non-flammable, easy to install yourself, and its surface is perfectly flat. Epoxy or polyurethane industrial compounds are most suitable for garage flooring.

1. Prepare the surface: remove dust and seal cracks. Then apply primer in two layers.
2. Follow the instructions to mix the solution for the self-leveling floor.
3. The floor is poured at a room temperature of 10 to 25 o C.
4. A large area is filled in stages.
5. Using a needle roller, the surface is leveled and all bubbles are removed.
6. After three weeks of drying, the floor can be used.

Wood plank flooring

Today, wooden floors are rarely found in garages. Him whole line advantages: environmentally friendly, inexpensive, easy to install. But all the advantages are outweighed by a significant drawback - fragility. Even the most the best wood lasts for a maximum of 5 years. In addition, wood is a flammable material. Storing gasoline, solvent and other similar substances in a garage with a wooden floor makes such a room a fire hazard. But still, some garage owners still make just such a floor covering.

1. Clean and prime the concrete screed.
2. Treat the timber from which the logs will be made with an antiseptic. Give it time to dry.
3. Install timber logs on a concrete screed with a distance between them of 100–200 centimeters. Secure the logs with dowels every 0.5 meters.
4. Lay intermediate logs in increments of 400 millimeters.
5. Received wooden frame waterproof.
6. Place flooring boards perpendicular to the joists. Use dense, dry boards 4 centimeters thick.
7. Prime the surface, soak it with an antiseptic and paint.

What kind of insulation is suitable and how to organize it

Those who like to tinker in the garage should take care of a year-round comfortable temperature in it. Of course, the room can be heated with various heaters, for example, a potbelly stove. But it is better to insulate the structure itself. Thermal insulation is needed for both walls and floors, especially if the garage is in the basement. Right choice insulation depends on what the floor is made of. Most often it is concrete or wood. Warm floors are made using expanded clay placed under the screed or sheets of polystyrene foam, polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, which are laid in the spaces between the joists of the wooden floor or directly under the concrete.

Mineral insulation materials are not used for thermal insulation of garage floors, as they are difficult to protect from moisture penetration.

How to make a warm floor using expanded clay

1. Prepare a pit, the depth of which will be sufficient for a layer of expanded clay.
2. For waterproofing, lay a layer of roofing material on the ground, placing it on the walls.
3. Fill the installed beacons with a layer of expanded clay of 250–300 millimeters.
4. Lay a mesh of reinforcement on the expanded clay and fill the structure with concrete.

Polystyrene foam (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene) under a concrete screed

Such insulation is used only if the floor can be raised by at least 200 millimeters. If this is not possible, then the soil will have to be further deepened.

1. Prepare the soil, level it and make a 50mm sand cushion. Compact it thoroughly.
2. Lay a waterproofing material on top, which can be roofing felt or plastic film.
3. Lay insulation boards with a thickness of 100 millimeters and a density index of at least C-25 on the waterproofing. There should be no gaps between the slabs and the waterproofing.
4. Cover the slabs with waterproofing film on top.
5. Fill everything with concrete screed.

How to insulate a wooden floor with foam plastic

This type of thermal insulation is good because the floor does not rise much, by a maximum of 100 millimeters. This is very important if the garage has low ceilings. For insulation, you can use polystyrene foam of any brand or other sheet insulation.

1. Level the base well and lay insulation boards on it, alternating them with the floor support joists. The outermost joists should fit snugly against the walls.
2. Lay down plastic film as waterproofing.
3. Lay wooden boards on top.

Video: DIY garage floor installation

Options for installing a floor in the garage have been considered. The information provided will allow you to choose coverage depending on your individual capabilities and preferences. The installation instructions will help you avoid mistakes and make the floor high-quality, durable and warm.

During operation, the floor in the garage is subjected to serious tests every day. The duration of its service directly depends on how correctly the arrangement was carried out. Insufficient attention to detail can lead to rapid wear and deterioration in the consumer characteristics of the floor covering. However, by strictly following the work technology, you can make a reliable and durable garage floor with your own hands.

Before installation of the floor base begins, soil studies and assessment of terrain unevenness in the area are carried out. If a high groundwater level is detected, then drainage works. If the garage is located on a slope and there is a large difference in height, the site is first leveled and the top layer of soil is removed.

Then select optimal method flooring equipment.

For the floor in the garage the following can be used:

• wooden flooring;
• monolithic reinforced concrete slab;
• concrete screed.

Wooden flooring in a garage is rarely done as it does not meet the requirements fire safety and is not very durable. However, it is quite warm, cozy and helps create a special atmosphere in this room.

For its installation, a flat area is initially prepared. Columns or brick supports are installed on it level. Their number depends on the size of the garage and the planned load on the floor. Alternatively, the base for the floor can be the garage foundation.

Logs made of timber are laid on the support, the cross-section of which must be at least 150 * 150 mm. They are pre-impregnated with liquid bitumen or water-repellent impregnation. Waterproofing and insulation are laid between them. Then boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, treated with an antiseptic, are nailed on top. The logs must be mounted across the garage, and the boards are fixed along the intended line of movement of the car.

Floor board thickness, mm	Gap between lags, mm
20	300
24	400
30	500
35	600
40	700
45	800
50	1000

Precast concrete slab

In areas with a significant slope or high groundwater level, it is advisable to lay a solid base on the garage floor. This significantly reduces the work time and simplifies the installation process itself.

The slab can only be laid on a prepared base. To do this, gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the floor in the garage in a layer of 20 cm, and then sand. All this is carefully compacted. A frame made of metal profiles, onto which the slab itself is already lowered. It is unacceptable to lay it directly on the ground, since the slab may crack due to soil movement and during operation.

You cannot use a hollow slab to install a floor in a garage that is not heated in winter.

A layer of cement screed or finishing self-leveling polymer floor is poured on top of the laid base. The result is a durable and reliable coating. The only drawback of the slab is that to install it you have to use the services of expensive construction equipment.

It’s safer and easier to make a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands. However, first you should consider the question of whether a pit is needed in the garage.

Inspection hole

For the convenience of car repairs, an inspection pit is equipped in the garage.

But it should be borne in mind that in the presence of a high groundwater level, installing underground structures in a garage can become extremely problematic.

For an inspection hole in the garage you should:

• dig a pit in the ground, having a depth of 20 cm greater than the height of the owner of the car, a width of 80-90 cm and a length of about a meter (depending on the dimensions of the car);
• pour a layer of gravel and sand on the floor and place a thin layer of cement screed (5-10 cm) on top;
• make formwork along the walls and pour cement or lay bricks on the mortar;
• Place a welded frame of 60 mm iron angle on top of the finished walls and secure it with cement mortar.

As soon as the hole is ready, you can begin further work on arranging the floor in the garage.

Concrete floor in garage

Preparing the base

Before starting work, the approximate height of the future floor is calculated. It should be slightly above the threshold. All excess soil is removed from the garage. Then the following is poured onto the surface:

• fine crushed stone in a layer from 30 cm to 85 cm (depending on the type of soil);
• sifted fine sand in a layer of 15 cm to 20 cm.

All this is carefully leveled, compacted, watered and compacted again. To do this, you can use special equipment or make do with improvised means. The result should be a dense and even base. The deviation of the plane of the prepared floor surface from the level should not be more than 5 mm per meter.

Spilling sand

Waterproofing, insulation and reinforcement

Roofing material, waterproofing material, rubemast or stekloizol are rolled out on compacted sand. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm is laid on it. This insulation will help to avoid troubles associated with freezing of concrete in the winter season. A thick film or waterproofing membrane is spread over polystyrene foam. The film strips must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm, and the joints between them are taped with transparent tape.

On the walls, waterproofing material is fixed at a height 5 cm higher than the expected level of the finished floor.

On next stage The reinforced frame is being installed. For this, reinforcement with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm is used. It must be selected depending on the expected load on the concrete slab. If the garage is large and there will be a lot of heavy cars in it, then the iron bars for reinforcement should be as thick as possible.

The iron rods are connected to each other with wire. The use of welding is not allowed, since the frame structure must have a certain mobility. It is advisable to strengthen the edges, corners and joints as securely as possible. For the transverse posts in the frame, 6 mm thick reinforcement is used. The result should be a strong two-layer lattice with a distance between the rods of 5-10 cm.

Stands 3-5 mm high are placed under the lower reinforcing mesh. The total height of the frame should be slightly less than the planned thickness of the concrete slab, which is selected based on an analysis of the soil and climatic conditions of the region. On sandy soils Without low temperatures in the winter season, the slab thickness is allowed from 25 mm to 35 mm. On heaving soils in areas with traditionally low winter temperatures the thickness of the concrete base must exceed 45 mm.

The reinforcement frame is separated from the walls by an expansion gap. It is necessary to provide the concrete slab with free space for gradual expansion and contraction at different times of the year. If there is no distance between the floor and the walls of the garage, the entire structure may collapse. Damper tape, foam plastic or soft insulation is used as cushioning material.

Installation of beacons

To construct a level concrete slab, beacons are installed on top of the frame on the mortar. They can be metal, aluminum or wood. They are installed so that the upper surfaces of all beacon guides are in the same plane. This is done using a laser or construction level; you can also use a regular construction cord for these purposes. To do this, it is stretched along the diagonals of the room and adjusted according to level.

First, the beacons are fixed along the walls, the next ones are installed at a distance of the length of the rule that will be used to level the concrete solution. Concrete can be poured only after the cement mixture on the lighthouses has completely hardened.

When installing the guides, be sure to provide a slope of at least 2 cm towards the garage door. This will ensure timely drainage of water and other liquids from the finished floor in the future.

As soon as the beacon profiles are securely fastened over the entire surface of the floor, you can begin to directly install the concrete slab.

Video - Installation of beacons

Pouring concrete

To install the floor in the garage, you should use durable frost-resistant concrete of a grade not lower than M300.

Concrete grade	Mass composition, C:P:SH, kg	Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P/Shch, l
100	1: 4,6: 7,0	41/61	78
150	1: 3,5: 5,7	32/50	64
200	1: 2,8: 4,8	25/42	54
250	1: 2,1: 3,9	19/34	43
300	1: 1,9: 3,7	17/32	41
400	1: 1,2: 2,7	11/24	31
450	1: 1,1: 2,5	10/22	29

Concrete grade	Mass composition C:P:SH, kg	Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P/Shch, l	Amount of concrete from 10 liters of cement, l
100	1: 5,8: 8,1	53/71	90
150	1: 4,5: 6,6	40/58	73
200	1: 3,5: 5,6	32/49	62
250	1: 2,6: 4,5	24/39	50
300	1: 2,4: 4,3	22/37	47
400	1: 1,6: 3,2	14/28	36
450	1: 1,4: 2,9	12/25	32

In areas with difficult climatic conditions, it is necessary to add cement mixture special additives and plasticizers. Preparing the solution yourself will take a lot of time and will not guarantee the formation of a durable coating.

Concrete for pouring a garage floor should have as uniform a consistency as possible. It is almost impossible to satisfy this requirement in artisanal conditions.

The best option is to order a mixer with concrete mortar. This will allow you to complete all the work in one go, which is also an indispensable factor for the successful completion of floor installation work. Pouring concrete mixture in several stages is strictly prohibited. This will lead to rapid destruction of the integrity of the coating.

During pouring, the mixture is distributed as a rule among the beacons, while air is carefully expelled from it. For these purposes, a shovel or a submersible concrete vibrator is used. The main goal of the installation work is to form a continuous and even mass of mortar over the entire surface of the garage floor, without voids inside.

The next day after pouring, the floor over the entire area is covered with thick rags, which are moistened with water daily.

The garage floor should not be exposed to direct sunlight until it reaches the desired level of strength.

Complete hardening of the concrete slab will occur only after 28 days. After this, it will be possible to begin the final stage and finishing work.

Finish coating

Concrete itself is not a durable coating. It inevitably breaks down and cracks, gradually absorbing oil, gasoline and chemical compounds. Therefore, it makes sense to cover the finished concrete floor with a thin protective layer that has a higher strength threshold.

It could be:

The choice of finishing material depends only on personal preferences and financial opportunities garage owner. The sequence of installation of most of these materials in the garage is no different from the actions during regular renovations in an apartment. Initially, the floor in the garage is dust-free. Then a primer is applied to it. Then the selected material is glued according to the instructions.

In any case, a properly made concrete base will serve as a reliable support for any modern coating.

Video - How to fill a garage floor

Video - How to make a concrete floor in a garage

The floor in the garage must be resistant to mechanical damage and chemical compounds, resistant to fire and high humidity. How to achieve this? How to cover the floor in yours? All possible options have their pros and cons. This is why the dispute between car owners does not stop. Which one is better in the garage? We will try to answer these questions in this article.

Today you can make garage floors different ways. The most popular types are:

• earthen;
• concrete;

Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of each and phased implementation works

Simple: earthen floor

Advantages of earthen covering:

• almost complete absence of cash investments;
• maximum ease of arrangement.

Flaws:

• low wear resistance;
• high humidity (soil tends to absorb moisture from below).

How to make a floor this way?

1. cut off completely vegetation layer(if there is one).
2. level the base.
3. Compact well using a tamper.

Advice! Fatty clay will help increase the strength of such a floor and provide protection from moisture. The recommended thickness of the clay layer is more than ten centimeters.

Classic - made of concrete

Concreting the floor in the garage is the first stage of work for almost any type of coating. Concrete is also an independent coating, quite popular among car owners.

Advantages:

• high strength and resistance to mechanical damage;
• low cost of materials.

Flaws:

• dust formation during operation;
• chemicals and dirt eat into the concrete surface, creating an unpleasant odor in the garage;
• the labor-intensive and “dirty” process of pouring concrete.

The installation of a concrete floor in a garage depends on the luck of car owners. If you are lucky, then there is already a solid reinforced concrete slab as the base. Working on such a floor covering is a pleasure. No hassle. I poured the concrete and that was it.

If you are not very lucky, then the base will be soil. And in order to pour concrete over the ground in a garage floor, you need to perform several labor-intensive processes:

1. Level and compact the base.
2. Make a waterproofing layer. To do this, coat the base with liquid clay.
3. Mark the height of the future floor on the walls and pull the rope guide.
4. Fill with gravel. The recommended layer thickness is about 80 cm (under unfavorable conditions), about 45 cm (under favorable conditions).

Advice! To indicate the height of the gravel layer, wooden posts can be installed along the walls in 1 m increments.

Compact the gravel, removing sharp and oversized stones. Fill in about 10 cm of sand. And also compact it. Thus, each layer of the filter “cushion” must be carefully pressed. The main condition for the quality of work is also the horizontal evenness of the surface ( tolerance— +/- 2 cm).

Waterproofing the garage floor is done using polyethylene film or modern membranes. Cover the entire surface with strips of polyethylene, laying them overlapping. Seal the joints with PVC tape. “Apply” the film to the walls (slightly above the level of the final coating). Smooth out thoroughly.

Strengthen the concrete surface with reinforced mesh. A material with cells 10x10 cm and a rod diameter of 0.5 cm is suitable. Cover the entire area with mesh.

Install long wooden slats (1-2 m), the width of which corresponds to the height of the rough covering (10 cm), in increments of 1 m. Ready solution pour in strips into the spaces between the slats, so as to hide the beacons. Wooden rule remove excess solution, tamp the mixture to the right/left with forward movements.

Advice! The concrete floor screed in the garage should not “fit” close to the walls and pipes: the structure can shrink and damage the floor covering. When pouring the floor, you need to leave gaps along the walls and near the pipes. Place pieces of elastic insulation into the resulting cracks.

Pour the “rough” concrete, cover it with film and leave it like that for a month. Moisturize periodically.

If you plan to insulate the floor in the garage, then the next layer is a heat insulator. Possible material options: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoizol, astratek, roofing felt and others. It is more convenient and faster to work with rolled heat insulators. For hydro and vapor barrier, cover the insulation on top with a film.

The final pouring of the floor in the garage is carried out similarly to the “rough” one: cover the surface with a metal mesh, place beacons, pour concrete, level and compact. Smooth the surface with a steel trowel.

If there is no insulation layer, then first the rough coating is coated with cement “milk” (cement, plasticizer and water), then the “finishing” concrete is poured.

Note! The finishing screed should be done with a slight slope towards the exit from the garage. This is necessary for water drainage.

To increase the service life, as well as rid the room of dirt and dust, the top layer should be strengthened. You can use special impregnations or paints. How to paint the floor? Special polyurethane, acrylic or epoxy enamels.

Eco-friendly: wood flooring

Wooden flooring in a garage has its advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• high efficiency;
• ease of installation;

And the downsides: fragility (average service life - 5 years). Stages of work:

• Make a rough concrete floor (see above).
• Prepare the joists: treat with an antiseptic and dry.
• Place the lighthouse logs in 2 m increments. They need to be fastened every half meter using dowels.
• Place intermediate logs in 40 cm increments. Fasten in the same way.
• Lay hydro- and vapor barrier material in the gaps of the frame.
• Secure the floor boards as tightly as possible to each other with nails or screws perpendicular to the joists.

In order to save money, you should not install logs directly on the ground. This coating will fail within two seasons.

Motorhome with a claim to luxury: ceramic tiles

1. waterproof;
2. no overspray;
3. ease of cleaning.

Cons: high cost of materials and labor.

For garage flooring, you need tiles with wear class 5. And for unheated premises– frost-resistant varieties. Only durable building materials will provide high resistance to mechanical damage and abrasion.

Under no circumstances should you lay ceramic tiles on the floor of a newly built garage. The coefficient of expansion of this material is too low, so the tiles will not withstand the shrinkage of the building in the first two years.

So, let's make a tile floor:

• Make a concrete screed.
• Prime the surface.
• Apply an adhesive composition corresponding to the brand of tile to the floor area using a notched rule. Also grease the edges of the tile itself. Lay the material in rows, checking the horizontal level with a level. To make the seams even, you need to use special plastic crosses.
• After three days, sand the seams. The floor can be used after 2 weeks.

Self-leveling floors in the garage

Modern leveling solutions can have a cement or polymer base.

Advantages of self-leveling floors:

• high wear resistance;
• perfect smoothness and evenness;
• the opportunity to experiment with color;
• ease of installation;
• ease of cleaning.

Cons: high cost.

Polyurethane and epoxy industrial floors are more suitable for garages. Such polymer coatings are guaranteed to last more than 45 years.

How to fill the floor?

Bulk

Prepare the concrete base: seal cracks, potholes, clean from dirt, dust, sand. Apply the primer to the floor surface in two layers, each of which must be allowed to dry. Prepare the solution following the manufacturer's instructions.

Fill with the composition, which is applied in portions. Pour the solution onto specific area– level with a toothed roller, carefully removing all air bubbles. It is recommended to carry out floor pouring work at temperatures from 10°C to 25°C. The maximum humidity level in the garage is 60%.

Thus, each gender has its pros and cons. The choice is up to the car owner. If funds allow, you can make a self-leveling floor - the most suitable for a garage in terms of technical characteristics. If the budget is significantly limited, then temporarily you can get by with an earthen floor or make a wooden one.