Many people, when buying a wooden house, are faced with the problem of the unaesthetic appearance of the beams on the ceiling. But such a design is inevitable when forming a roof made of wood.

At the same time, the majority do not want to put up with the unaesthetic appearance of old ceiling structures and strive to cover the existing beams. It can be done different ways, but the most common is plasterboard finishing.

Plasterboard finishing of structures such as wooden beams is very common today. This is due to the fact that this material has undeniable advantages:

• affordable price;
• environmental friendliness;
• simple installation that you can do yourself without any problems;
• hiding all irregularities on the ceiling;
• giving the ceiling greater aesthetics and beauty;
• An excellent base for any type of decoration.

Closed beams

It will be much easier to cover wooden beams using plasterboard finishing than with plastic or other finishing materials.

The purpose of the beams

To understand how you can sheathe wooden beams using plasterboard sheets, you must first understand their functional purpose. Otherwise, the main ceiling may be damaged.
Beams in this type of ceiling have the following purpose:

• ceiling support from possible collapse;
• decorating the surface and giving the room a certain style. In this way, you can create a rural (authentic) style or beautifully fit the beams into any other design;
• emphasizing the volume of a room where there are high walls. In such rooms, the presence of these devices will add the necessary comfort;
• correction of rooms with low ceilings. In this case, the beams will go to the walls;
• design of attics and roof spaces;
• a change in the room's optical perception. You can, for example, visually increase the space of a room;
• visual zoning of the room into certain zones: dining room, cooking area, etc.;
• creating unique and non-standard lighting using recessed lighting fixtures.

As you can see, such elements of a wooden ceiling have a wide variety of purposes. But if you want to bring your home to modern look and make modern ceiling structures, the beams will still have to be covered.

Why is disguise needed?

But you should not think that the reason for masking the beam elements on the ceiling is only the aesthetic desire of the owner. There may be more compelling reasons here. These include, in particular:

• structural damage and the need to update the ceiling;
• renovation in modern style;
• insulation of the attic or roof;
• changing the space of the room.

In the process of finishing with plasterboard sheets, you can prevent roof collapse, as well as successfully disguise old and unnecessary details wooden structures.

Disguise according to the rules

Any installation work that involves the use of drywall should always be carried out in accordance with the technology and using step-by-step instructions. Masking beams is no exception.
In this case, plating is possible in three ways:

• frameless method. Applicable in cases where wooden elements are located close enough to each other so that it is possible to install a plasterboard sheet on them without an additional frame;

Frameless method
Wooden frame

• on wooden frame. This method is used when there are sufficiently large distances between the beams. Here, additional lathing is made on the ceiling so that one plasterboard sheet can be installed on three wooden elements;
• metal carcass. It can be mounted both on the ceiling surface and on wooden sheathing. You just need to take certain features into account wooden ceilings and proceed from this when covering the surface with finishing material.

Note! This option is considered the best, as it is more durable than wood.

Metal carcass

Today there are two ways to disguise such wooden elements:

• Creation plasterboard box. In this case, only part of the elements will be masked, while the rest can be finished in the style you choose. Similar finishing options are quite common today;
• complete ceiling finishing with sheets and hiding all unwanted design features. You will end up with a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

You should choose a finishing method based on the ceiling you have, as well as the condition of the beams themselves.

First stage of finishing

The first stage installation work the frame will be assembled. Consider the option of assembling a metal box.

Note! When choosing a method for completely masking the beams, you should lath the ceiling according to the same pattern as for simply finishing wooden ceiling structures with sheets of plasterboard.

The frame of the box is erected as follows:

Installation of hangers

• we assemble the frame in the shape of the letter “P”;
• We attach metal profiles to the ceiling using hangers. Beams cannot be used as a mounting point, as they can become damaged and collapse the entire ceiling structure;
• the minimum indentation that should be made in this situation is approximately 15-20 cm;
• then along the perimeter of the room, without attaching to the walls, we install profile guides and close them into a single structure;

Crab mount

• after that we install jumpers. We cut them from rack profiles and attach them to the frame with special fasteners - crabs;
• the step of fastening the jumpers is determined by the weight ceiling structure, as well as the load that the starting ceiling will experience;
• then, using jumpers, we lower the plane down and close it with guide profiles, thus forming a box;
• We fasten everything using dowels and screws.

The result should be metal box along the perimeter of the room.
If you need to completely mask all the beams, then we make the sheathing in a similar way. Make sure that the wooden elements of the starting ceiling do not protrude beyond the boundary of the plane defined by the profiles.
The main thing is that the resulting box or full-fledged sheathing is not attached to the walls. This requirement is based on the fact that wooden ceilings are characterized by a certain mobility, which is not visually visible. This mobility occurs due to the influence of temperature changes on wood, as well as humidity. If you make a frame that adheres to the walls, then after a while cracks may appear in the drywall or the material will simply collapse on your head.
The frame assembled using the technology will have insignificant mobility. Entering into dissonance with the tree, it will repeat its mobility. This way you can minimize the risk of cracks and the plasterboard suspended structure will serve you for a very long time.
Do not forget that if you are planning to install additional lighting, then the wiring for it is laid at this stage.

It's time for disguise

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame like a box or full sheathing, it is necessary to begin covering it with plasterboard sheets.
Sheathing a frame or box requires the same procedure. It’s just that in the second case it will take much less time. And here it is fashionable to cope on your own, without an assistant.
We fasten the sheets as follows:

Screwing in self-tapping screws

• we apply a whole sheet to the frame, placing it so that it rests on three profiles or wooden beams;
• We fasten the gypsum board using self-tapping screws. The frequency of their screwing is approximately 20-25 cm;
• on adjacent sheets, the screwing step should alternate, creating a “chessboard” pattern. This, again, will prevent cracks from appearing in the material;
• When all the solid sheets have been installed, we mount the pieces. We cut them with a special knife.

If you have assembled a box and want to make hidden lighting on it, then in the right places the sheet of drywall should protrude in relation to the metal profile at the distance required for placement lighting fixture. Often used here LED strips different colors.
After this, all that remains is to putty the mounted surface using standard technology and give it the final appearance.
As you can see, there are several ways to cover ceiling beams with plasterboard. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology for installing the material on wooden base and in the end you will get an excellent, smooth ceiling without cracks.
With the help of plasterboard sheets, you can even turn an old attic in your country house into a chic and modern premises. Believe in yourself and just follow the instructions - the result will be excellent!

Let's talk about how you can beat the availability load-bearing beam, which can become a headache for apartment owners due to its unpresentable appearance. This structural element of the house cannot be removed, so we have to come up with various options so that the beam does not spoil the interior.

Crossbar or load-bearing beam - important element designs of apartment and private houses. They are usually made of hard concrete, inside steel reinforcement, but can also be made of wood. In essence, beams are a load-bearing wall, or rather, its top part. Load-bearing crossbars must not be demolished! The floors between floors rest on them, so dismantling the beams will lead to problems throughout the house. Cracks may appear in the walls and ceilings, and in the worst case, structures will collapse.

That is why we have to come up with design options for load-bearing beams, which at first glance only spoil the appearance of the room and get in the way. At the same time, load-bearing beams are found not only in “Stalin” buildings, old building, but also in new buildings. Sometimes owners find out about the presence of load-bearing beams only if they start redevelopment. For example, they decide to attach a loggia to a living room or combine a living room with a kitchen.

The simplest option is not to hide the load-bearing beam in any way, but leave it as is. But this one is only suitable for brutal industrial interiors, high-tech and loft styles.

For all other styles of room design, an uncovered load-bearing beam without finishing is clearly an unnecessary element.

The second way is to “dissolve” the load-bearing crossbar in space as much as possible. You can simply plaster it and paint it the same color as the ceiling or cover it with the same wallpaper so it doesn’t catch your eye. The option is simple and inexpensive, but the rectangular protrusion will still be noticeable. According to the designers, in this case, the beam should be balanced with other elements, for example, a storage system of the same shape.

Quite often, load-bearing beams are sheathed with plasterboard. In this case, you can run the boxes around the perimeter of the room to create a complete picture. In addition, covering the beam with plasterboard allows you to illuminate it, that is, turn it into a functional element of the interior.

By the way, an option is when the crossbar is completely hidden under the tension or suspended ceiling, designers actively criticize. Too much space will be “eaten up”, the ceiling will have to be lowered significantly.

Another option is to add decorative beams to balance out the presence of the transom and make it part of the ceiling decoration. We have already written about how beams can be used to decorate the ceiling.

Mirrors help literally dissolve the beam in space. They can be used to sheathe the crossbar, which will simply disappear behind the reflections. Besides, mirrors always help to add light and space to a room.

As an option, a beam can become an element of zoning a room if it has several functions. For example, separate the dining room from the kitchen.

In addition, designers consider the space under the supporting beam ideal place for arranging partitions. In this case, the crossbar will become part of the entire structure and will be harmoniously designed.

In general, as the designers assure, there is no need to worry about the presence of a load-bearing beam in the room. This structural element of the house can be turned into a bright and useful interior detail, adding dynamics to a boring ceiling.

Remodeling the ceiling or how to cover beams

In most old private houses, the ceiling is “decorated” with beams (svolok) - this was such an ancient way of constructing roofs. And in the most economical and fairly durable way.
But still, these open beams had some disadvantages.
Firstly.
Due to the lack of stiffeners and the long age, they sagged.
Secondly.
Unattractive and rough appearance.

Now many designers decorate ceilings with decorative beams (Decowood), made of high-strength polyurethane with a wood-imitating coating.

This method, of course, is good and beautiful, because the dummy beams are absolutely even.
With old beams such a ceiling is simply not possible due to the fact that they are so strongly curved that there is no way to level them and somehow improve them.
Therefore, the most the best option in this case, covering the beams with plasterboard.
To work we need a tool.

• Drill with a set of drills.
• Metal shears for cutting galvanized profiles.
• Wallpaper knife for cutting drywall.
• Level + long ruler - rule.
• Ax and chisels for processing beams.
• Screwdriver.
• Painting tool.

You will also need this material.

• Drywall.
• Galvanized profile.
• Straight suspension for profile.
• Metal self-tapping screws for 3.5×25 mm main body,
• 3.5x9.5 mm “flea” for the profile, as well as self-tapping screws of different lengths, but narrower for wood.

I will tell you below why you need wood screws.

• Serpyanka for sealing seams between sheets of drywall.
• Perforated outer corner.
• Expanded polystyrene ceiling plinth.

1. Primer.
2. Putty (start/finish).
3. Water-based paint.

• Spotlights for lighting.
• Mirrors with bevel 150×150 mm for decoration.

• Glue "Liquid nails".

The entire process of remodeling the ceiling will take place in 4 stages.
1. Preparation.
2. Installation of the frame and drywall fastening.
3. Finishing and decoration.
4. Installation of lamps.

Stage one - preparing the ceiling for remodeling.

One of the most difficult, because... the beams (svolok) bent to varying degrees.
This was easy to check by measuring with a tape measure from the floor to the beams at five points in the room (in the corners and in the middle).
The heaviest sag occurred on the middle beam.

Then, when using a ruler and a level, it turned out that absolutely all the beams were initially installed at different levels.

As a result, we get a quiet horror, which, to fix it, you need to either lower the ceiling significantly, or replace the middle beam with metallic profile(I-beam or channel).

Long story short, we decided against reducing the ceiling height because it was not part of the building code.

note. that according to construction rules, the ceiling height in residential premises must be at least 220 cm.

They also refused to replace the wooden beam with a metal one due to the high cost and laboriousness of the replacement process itself. Moreover, it should be noted that it is not safe!

The solution was found in an elementary optical illusion, i.e. We decided to simply divide the ceiling into three parts and make it on three levels.
It was this decision that allowed us to win the size.

If we made the entire ceiling at one level, then it would have to be lowered by twenty centimeters, or even more.

Stage two – construction of a profile frame for the future ceiling.

Our task is to first make a frame over the middle beam, which sagged the most.

In order to level the beam and not lose its size, you need to use an ax and chisel to carve out a place for the profile.
We use an ax to trim the beam itself a little.
After constructing the frame, you get such a box 50 cm wide.

This optimal size, which makes it possible to install spotlights without problems and does not create bulkiness for the entire ceiling.

If you make the width smaller, the lamps won’t fit; if you make it wider, it won’t look good.

note. Before facing with plasterboard it is necessary to carry out electrical wiring.

We sew up the resulting box with plasterboard.
And we attach side profiles to it at different levels for the frames of the remaining two ceilings.

We also attach the profile to the walls using a level using long wood screws (70-90 mm).

Advice.
If the walls of the house are made of adobe or other soft material, then it is better to drive the screws into what is called “insolently” using a screwdriver.

In general, it turns out that during the preparation and manufacture of the frames, we had to trim almost all the beams with an ax in order to maintain the height of the ceiling as much as possible.

Advice.
The binding of the plasterboard ceiling frame should be as thick as possible so that there is no sagging in the future. It is not advisable to save money on this!

Once the frame is completely ready, we attach sheets of drywall to it.

Stage three - finishing the ceiling.

First you need to apply primer.

note. You can use soil from any manufacturer.
And not only primer, but also putty, paint, etc. The main thing is that all construction chemistry was from one manufacturer.

Then we seal the seams between the sheets with sickle and putty (KNAUF Fugenfüller).

We putty everything in one layer of “starting” and two layers of “finishing”.
Sand thoroughly.
Mode in right size ceiling plinth and using putty we attach it along the entire perimeter of the ceiling including the central box.
We paint everything with water-based paint.

After drying, mark central part ceiling for attaching decor in the form of mirror squares measuring 150x150 mm with a bevel.

note. We attach the mirrors using Liquid Nails glue.

Stage four is the final stage. Installation of spotlights.

To do this, we also make markings so that there is an even distance between them.
We drill holes for the lamps.

We check, and only then stick it in.

Another option is to cover the beams, but only the step is not in the middle, but at the beginning of the room.
The order of work is the same as in the first option.

First the step is made, and then the entire ceiling.

If you don’t want to putty, clean and paint, then there is easier way.
For example, finishing with polystyrene foam squares 50x50 cm.

I once talked about this method of finishing the ceiling in the article “Repair work in the house.”

Using “Liquid Nails” or “Dragon” or “Titanium” glue, it doesn’t matter, we attach the new ceiling to the plasterboard.

It can be easily cut with a ruler and a wallpaper knife.

They redid all the ceilings and brought a fresh breath into their home.

If you have any questions, ask through the “Contacts” page or through the comments. I will be happy to answer all questions.
See you in new articles! Sincerely, Yuri Filippov.

Please pay attention to the following articles:

2 thoughts on “Redoing the ceiling or how to cover the beams”

The squares for finishing are indicated as 50cm x 50cm. Is this due to the prevalence, or for some other reason, this size?

These squares initially have the same factory dimensions, or rather polystyrene foam slabs, which are made specifically for finishing the ceiling.

http://dveridomaster.ru

Do you want to design in the style of a country house? One of the attributes of such an interior are beams. If in apartments many are afraid to use this decorative element, then in a country house this is the right place for them!

Sometimes it happens that you have to mask the existing supports on the ceiling, which stick out strongly downwards. Surely you have wondered how to beat a ceiling beam? Today we will talk about this.

Types of decorative beams

Beams can be made of wood, metal or polyurethane.

• The classic version is made of oak, ash, pine. They can be solid or hollow inside, which is especially good for hiding various communications under them.
• Metal beams are usually very heavy, so they need to be fastened tightly.
• Polyurethane beams are fairly light in weight and can be easily secured by yourself. The advantage of this material is that it is not afraid of moisture and does not absorb odors, so you can use it in almost any room. In addition, polyurethane can imitate many textures and colors, such as wood.

Design using decorative beams

Initially, the beams were used as support for the attic, and took the entire load on themselves. Over time, they began to be hidden under the ceiling, but in Lately Many designers began to use beams in their interiors.

The beams will fit organically into the design:

• Kitchens;
• Living room;
• Bedrooms;
• Cabinet;
• And even the corridor.

On a note! Their number and size should be selected depending on the area of ​​the room.

By the way, even the most ordinary one can perform useful functions. You can attach it to unusual lamps or chandeliers hanging from chains. You can also zone a large room using well-placed beams on the ceiling.

Beams in various interior styles

Wooden beams are usually used in styles where wooden decorative elements predominate:

• Scandinavian;
• Rustic;
• Country;
• Victorian;
• Provence;
• Mediterranean style...

For the high-tech style, metal beams are usually used, which especially emphasize the laconicism and practicality of the room.

Hiding existing beams

Some people are thinking about how to make a ceiling beam, while other “lucky” people are wondering how to hide it.

Let's look at options for how to beat the beams on the ceiling.

Advice! To ensure that the beam does not stand out, make its color the same as the ceiling. Corners can be leveled with ceiling plinths.

1. In addition to lighting, you can apply a pattern or ornament to the beam to suit your design style. This option includes photo wallpapers and mirrors. They will visually increase the height of the ceiling.

1. If the beam is in the kitchen, then you can use it as a hanger for kitchen utensils, securing the railing to it.
   In addition, you can install a bar counter downwards, creating an island in the kitchen. This method can often be seen in foreign films.

1. If the size of the beam is not very large, then you can hide it using a polyurethane false beam. It will look more beautiful than standard concrete or iron.

1. Most often, the beam is decorated with ropes. This technique is often used in eco, Mediterranean and country styles.

But what to do if the beam does not look aesthetically pleasing at all, and there is no way to disguise it? How to hide ceiling beams completely?

In this case the best solution will hide it under a suspended or suspended ceiling. There are many varieties of them, and it is not necessary to make a complete ceiling; you can simply create a box from plasterboard. The frame will then look like the letter P.

The frame of the structure must be fastened to the ceiling; holes cannot be drilled in the beam itself, otherwise it will lose its properties.

It is important to know! Minimum indentation plasterboard construction from the base 15-20 centimeters, and from the stretch ceiling - 2 centimeters.

If the location of the beam allows you, then you can turn its disadvantage into an advantage. Make a built-in closet and hide it completely. There will be a lot of useful storage space.

As you can see, using seemingly small, insignificant details, a beautiful and cozy interior. Show your imagination to the maximum, and you will definitely get an exclusive designer renovation. We hope you have found a way for yourself to beat the beam.

Initially, the ceiling beams were by no means decorative elements premises, they took on all the loads from the roof of the house, and at the same time served as a support for attic floor. Over time, beams on the ceiling began to be increasingly hidden from view as an unnecessary element, but nowadays interest in them has returned again, and attention is paid more to the decorative aspect. And at the same time, the ceiling beams acquired a completely new appearance and began to perform a lot of new functions.

Functions of ceiling beams

Today ceiling beams are used to decorate ceilings not only in rural homes, but also in country houses and city apartments made of brick and concrete. These elements of an authentic interior are very attractive to residents of the “concrete jungle”. Therefore, open beams are increasingly decorative in nature, without losing their functionality.

Ceiling beams can be used in any room. They look natural in the living room, office, bedroom, library and even hallway. Their massiveness and quantity is determined overall dimensions rooms. In a spacious kitchen you can “dot” the entire ceiling large beams, and in a small hallway you will only need a few pieces.

Decorative beams are simple and very in an inexpensive way original finish ceiling. But is this really where their advantages end? Why are beams so popular, and how can you use beams on the ceiling? Let's look at what functions ceiling beams can handle:

1. Problem high ceilings. If the ceilings are high, these designs will successfully emphasize the volume of the room. If the room is too high, which deprives it of comfort, ceiling beams can be placed low under the ceiling to visually lower its level, and the volume of the room will feel more comfortable.
2. The problem with low ceilings. If there is pressure in your home low ceiling, then for correction this deficiency you can try this approach. Beams from the ceiling should go to the walls. In this case, it may not be quite a beam running along the wall, but a thin strip to match the beam.
3. Decor attic spaces. In attics and attics, decorating a pitched ceiling with beams will help bring order and harmony into the space.
4. Changing the optical perception of the room. To visually expand the room, the beams should be positioned in width. Well, placing structures along the wide side will make the room look more elongated. In order not to change the geometry, but to add volume to the ceiling, you can install the beams in a “lattice” - crosswise or “herringbone”.
5. Functional zoning of the room. One large ceiling beam can divide a room into several zones: in this case, the structure must be mounted at the junction functional zones- for example, above the bar counter or dining table. On the other hand, you can decorate a certain area with beams, so it can be distinguished from others.
6. Unusual lighting. On the most ordinary ceiling beam you can attach recessed lamps, LED backlight, hang or tie to it on chains large chandeliers. Beams are often used to decorate niches in plasterboard structures and create spot lighting.
7. Hiding communications. “Hollow” pseudo-beams can be used to disguise communications that run along the ceiling, for example, wiring. Structures that imitate beams are often used as boxes for mounting lamps. Such beams are U-shaped, they are hollow inside, so they can even hide pipes.
8. Optimization free space. In the kitchen, you can install various holders and hooks on the ceiling beams, hanging baskets, utensils, dried bunches of herbs or a glass holder on them. You can even attach a TV panel on a special bracket, “air” chairs or swings to the ceiling beams, if, of course, these are real beams and not their imitation.

Using beams in the interior

Beams can be used to decorate the ceiling in an interior in almost any style: from historical classicism to modern high-tech. Well, when it comes to the interior in ethnic styles, then the ceiling beams will come in handy. That's why it's so important to know how to decorate a beam on the ceiling.

If you prefer classics with a claim to luxury, then these designs can be decorated with carvings, paintings and vignettes. Coloring in gentle tone and “like silver”. In strict classic interior Smooth varnished ceiling beams look appropriate.

Smooth beams are also suitable for modern interior. Here these elements look no less impressive. Acceptable here bold decisions and creativity. Therefore, you can paint the beams not only in traditional white, black and dark brown, but also in bright color- red, blue or even pink.

In high-tech and loft style interiors, beams can be painted with a metallic effect paint or made of metal. Often, ceiling beams are adjacent to “bare” light bulbs and exposed wires, as well as brickwork on the walls. Such “industrial aesthetics”, an appeal to the theme of old abandoned warehouses and factories, transform the home into modern luxury apartments.

For a country or rural style interior, it is certainly recommended to choose beams that imitate aged wood. Moreover, the designs can be dark or light, it all depends on the general color range premises. They are distinguished by texture and roughness. If we talk about the French rural Provence style, then it is better to use more elegant and neat whitewashed beams.

Real solid wood beams are considered a luxury. Moreover, the presence in the house wooden beams How structural elements should be provided for in advance, even at the construction stage. In most cases, it is not advisable to install wooden beams for the sake of aesthetics: they are too heavy.

Therefore, they often turn to imitation of wooden beams, which is indistinguishable from the original. Such products are usually made of polyurethane. Polyurethane ceiling beams weigh little, which simplifies the installation process. Their price is not high. They can look different: like smoothly polished beams that are varnished, or like beams made of ancient cracking wood.

How to hide ceiling beams

So, we have dealt with persistent owners who want to decorate their ceilings with similar decor. But the happy owners of houses with beams are trying to make these elements invisible, which is why they are interested in how to hide beams on the ceiling. In addition, beams can often have various defects and differences in height; this is usually the case with the general unsatisfactory condition of the interfloor floors.

Stretch ceiling

The first option for closing beams is to install the well-known tension fabric from PVC film or fabric. In this case, the ceiling will have to be lowered to the width of the masked ceiling beam. But when using this technique, you need to remember that in this case another danger may arise - loss of space. The ceiling may drop too low. Therefore, it is better to arrange a multi-level suspended ceiling, which significantly “tightens” the ceiling and adds space.

Plasterboard box

The second option on how to decorate beams on the ceiling is to create suspended structure made of plasterboard, which has the shape of a box. The frame should look like the letter P. Remember that the frame should be attached directly to the ceiling, but in no case to the ceiling beam itself - holes cannot be made in it, otherwise the beam will lose its original properties. The minimum distance from the base of a plasterboard structure is 15-20 centimeters, and the tension fabric is 2 centimeters.

With help plasterboard sheet you can create a curtained part of the ceiling with LED lighting. The lighting is hidden under a plasterboard cornice, which is attached directly under the protruding ceiling beam. Light sources can be neon tubes, long halogen lamps or a flexible duralight cord. Not recommended for use fluorescent lamps due to the excessive bluish tint that is given to the interior. Spotlights - not the best the best option, since the eaves lighting must be continuous.

Coffered ceiling

There is another option for finishing a ceiling with beams, more refined and more expensive - decoration by creating coffers. This ceiling consists of ceiling beams, cells, borders, cornices and recesses. Moreover, cassettes can be square, diamond-shaped or polygonal. Round caissons are also known in interior design practice.

On coffered ceiling You can beautifully decorate the longitudinal and transverse ceiling beams, for example, with ornaments and lighting sources. In addition, the presence of such beams will save time on installing the supporting lattice frame for mounting cassettes, because the beams are already available! Such ceilings can give a room a solid and impressive look.

Sheathing with edged boards

The easiest way to hide beams on the ceiling is to use edged boards or lining. All surfaces of wooden beams are covered along one lower horizontal and two vertical planes. Their corner joints remain uncovered if the ends are precisely adjusted or the joints are covered with wooden corners.

In case of edged boards they need to be sanded and painted. Sometimes the material is pre-fired blowtorch and then coated with clear varnish. Recently, it has become fashionable not to sand such beams and boards, but rather to make their surface uneven using round wire brushes. The shank of such a tool must be inserted into a conventional electric drill and marks are applied in relief to the surface of the beam.

Original ways of decoration

Sometimes ceiling beams are plastered using different plaster mesh and coated with marble or other imitation paint natural stone. Ceiling beams are often decorated with ropes. A similar technique is often used in Mediterranean, eco and country styles, when the aesthetic component is put in first place. The beam is simply “revitalized” by wrapping a rope around it.

If you have not yet found a way to close a beam on the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following original way. You can make a built-in closet and completely hide the beam. In this case, you will have a lot of useful storage space.

Repair of ceiling beams

The most unpleasant thing when working with ceiling beams is the moment when they begin to sag over time. If the tree is not damaged, but the deflection is due to overload insulation material ceiling surface or an incorrectly selected section of the ceiling beam, all errors can be corrected with minimal costs, strengthening the old beam with the help of an auxiliary one.

Measure the height of the deflection and the amount of subsidence of the beam with a level. Then you need to remove the cross members from the edges of the sagging beam in order to place an additional beam there. It is also necessary to measure the length and cross-section of the beam, select a board of the appropriate size and preferably a similar type of wood. Under no circumstances should you use a croaker. If the board is slightly curved, you need to place it with the curved part up.

Place the new board on load-bearing walls If the edges of the new beam are not inserted into the support, notches should be made approximately 1 centimeter deep and 20 centimeters long. After this, you need to jack up the sagging beam, preferably a few centimeters above the horizontal. Then place the reinforcing beam next to the old one, securing the cross members in the supporting walls for the new beam.

A wooden wedge must be inserted between the supporting wall and the end of the support beam. Then align the slopes with the supporting wall until you get a smooth, horizontal plane, attach the wedge, tapping it with a hammer so that it does not fall out. Secure with bolts. You can remove the jack only after a few days.

If you have doubts about the quality of the wood of a sagging beam, when reinforcing it between the connecting bars, you can pass metal strips and attach it to a reinforced tie. It is recommended to treat wood used for repairs with antiseptics, and all hardware prime.