The bathroom is usually supplied complete with legs or a frame on which this is mounted. sanitary product. When making hot tubs, manufacturers are guided by the fact that the distance from the floor to its side should be about 60-65 cm.

However, sometimes situations arise when standard height the bathtub is inconvenient to use or does not drain water well. In this case, there is only one way out - to lift it. In this article we will tell you how to raise a bathtub above the floor using the 3 most popular methods, as well as the advantages of each of them.

Why do you need to raise the bathtub?

In general, the standard bath height above the floor is building regulations and the norm should be 60-65 cm. This standard was calculated in accordance with the average height of a person and has been tested for more than one generation.

If the font is installed at this height, then it is convenient and safe to use. However, situations arise when the bathtub has to be raised above the floor. Most often, this procedure is performed to solve the following problems:

Remember that the standard height is calculated and recorded in SNiPs and GOSTs, as it is suitable for most people. However, if there is a need to raise the floor font, this can be done by lengthening the legs, constructing a podium from foam blocks or bricks, or using a frame.

Difficulty lifting the bathtub off the floor

Before raising the bathtub, so that the drain works well, you need to calculate everything well. Flaws in installation can lead to discomfort during washing due to instability of the font, deformation of the walls or bottom of the bowl, and chipping of the enamel.

When choosing a method for raising the bathtub above the floor level, the following nuances should be taken into account:

Note! When choosing the method by which you will lift the bathtub, you need to take into account the 3 most important factors: the material from which the bathtub is made, the height to which the lift will be carried out, and the weight of the model.

Lengthening the legs

The most common way to install bathtubs is to use supports or simply legs. Using this installation option, you can install models made of cast iron, steel and even acrylic. The legs included in the delivery set usually have a standard height.

If the legs are made in the form of a screw, then they can be adjusted. If the height of the standard legs is not enough or with the help of them you need to give the bath a slope towards the drain for better water drainage, then they can be lengthened.

To do this proceed as follows:

1. First, you need to disconnect the drain and overflow from the bathtub and lay it on its side to make it easier to remove the standard legs.
2. Then you need to remove the old legs, take one as a sample to the store, and then purchase a metal pin of the same diameter, but longer.
3. Then you need to fix the new screws; if necessary, the height of the knife can be adjusted to give a slope in the direction of the drain hole.
4. After this, connect the drain and install the bath in its original position.

Important! This method of lengthening the legs has several disadvantages. Firstly, using this method it is impossible to increase the distance between the floor and the side of the font by more than 5-7 cm. Secondly, the load on the legs increases significantly, which is why they can become deformed. Therefore, when purchasing screws to lengthen the legs, you need to pay attention to the material from which they are made and the cross-section diameter.

Using hard material stands

As we have already figured out, lengthening the legs to increase the height of the bathtub is not the best way. Its main drawback is the small area of ​​the supports, which leads to increased load on the legs, as well as deformation of the walls and chips on the enamel of the bowl.

To increase the area on which a fairly massive plumbing fixture rests, you can use stands made of brick, foam blocks or foam blocks instead of legs. paving slabs. The advantages of this method are considered:

Important! With heavy bathtubs made from easily deformable acrylic bathtubs and heavy cast iron models, you need to do exactly this - install them on posts. This is one of the most good ways installation of hot tubs on non-standard height. When the bowl is raised on bricks, it stands stable, does not wobble, and does not deform under load.

Frame mounting

If you lift an acrylic bathtub on legs, it may become deformed or even burst under load. To evenly distribute the load and increase the area of ​​support, thin-walled fonts are installed on the frame.

The frame can be made from metal corners from of stainless steel. It can be prefabricated or welded, and the second option is characterized by increased strength.

Before working on installing the frame, you need to make sure that you have everything you need:

• Stainless steel corners, the cross-section of which is sufficient to support the weight of the bathtub.
• Grinder with a metal disc.
• Welding machine.
• Self-tapping screws and anchors for attaching the frame to the walls and floor.
• A hammer drill for making mounting holes in the wall and floor.
• Screwdriver.
• Putty for treating seams to protect against corrosion.

Please note that when we raise the bathtub above the floor using a frame, it is quite difficult to give it a slope. Therefore, this method is suitable in cases where the bottom of the container has a natural slope towards the drain hole, and water flows well.

Video instruction

If the slope of the sewer pipes does not meet the requirements of SNiP and the inlet of the riser is located at the level or above the drain from the sink, bathtub and toilet, the sewer system does not work correctly and blockages form in it.

From the article you will learn what the slope of sewer pipes should be, why sewerage does not work well with the wrong slope and how to correct slope.

How does sewage work?

Water from toilets, sinks, bathtubs, washing machines, dishwashers and other appliances is drained into the drain. This water contains organic impurities ranging in size from hundredths of a millimeter to several centimeters. The composition and amount of impurities are different, so the sewer system is designed in such a way that waste and fecal water flows without delay.

The calculation method is described in SNiP 2.04.01-85. If we simplify the formulas, the correct slope depends on the flow rate of waste and fecal water and the diameter of the pipes. For thin pipes (40-50 mm) it corresponds to 2-3 cm per meter of length, for thick pipes (90-110 mm) 1-2 cm. If the slope is less, then large fragments of fecal and Wastewater get stuck in pipe joints, and small ones get caught on unevenness and roughness of the pipe.

The low flow rate does not allow water to remove stuck or stuck fragments, resulting in a blockage. With an excessive slope, the speed of the water increases, so the fragments hit the uneven surfaces with greater force, so some of them stick to the pipes and form a blockage. Another unpleasant manifestation of excessive pipe slope is increased noise when draining water.

Slope is the difference in the heights of the water inlet openings of the horizontal collector (lounger) and the inlet opening of the vertical common house collector (riser). Therefore, the slope depends on the height of the hole in the riser, the level of the floor and the height of the receiving hole of the deck chair above the floor level.

How to change the slope of a sewer

To change the slope, do the following:

• lower the receiving hole in the common house riser;
• raise the floor level to raise the receiving opening of the lounger;
• lift plumbing fixture and the receiving hole without changing the floor level.

How to change the height of the intake hole in the riser

If you move the intake hole lower, keep in mind that the riser is a common house communication. If you do something wrong and deprive your upstairs neighbors of the opportunity to use the toilet normally, it will not turn out well for you.

If you cut a sewer into a riser lower than it is connected, consider the following. No damage to the floor slab minimum height the intake hole is 2.5 cm from the floor. To connect the sun lounger to the riser, you must use a clamp that covers the drain hole by at least a quarter of the diameter in each direction.

The diameter of the lounger is 90-110 mm, therefore, to lower it lower than 2.5 cm, it is necessary to damage the floor slab.

The process of connecting to the riser is described in detail in the article.

If you not professional builder, do not damage the floor slab. This is life-threatening. According to Russian law, making changes to the design of a building without approval from the city department of architecture is illegal and is punishable by a large fine.

If minimum distance from the floor to the riser inlet does not allow you to create the correct slope, raise the inlet of the sun lounger. To do this, raise the floor level or the installation level of plumbing fixtures.

How to raise the floor level

The floor level is raised to avoid height differences in front of the bathtub or toilet. If it is necessary to raise the floor level by 10 centimeters or less, then pour a concrete screed of the required thickness.

For screeding, a cement-sand mixture with the addition of crushed stone is used. For one part of cement of a grade not lower than 300, take 3 parts of sand and 4-6 parts of crushed stone. This filling is performed on concrete floors.

If the floors are made of wood, concrete screed will bring them down. For such floors, a frame is made of wooden blocks and floorboards or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

Before raising the floor, lay a new deck chair with the required slope, or increase the slope of the old one. Secure the pipes.

To fill the screed, clear the floor of dirt and debris. Lay a reinforcing mesh made of steel or fiberglass reinforcement on the floor. The mesh will prevent cracking of the screed. Then install formwork to raise the floor level in a separate room.

Align the beacons (wooden or metal guides) according to the level. They are necessary to create a smooth horizontal surface of the screed. Install beacons on wooden blocks or bricks. Before pouring, check the beacons again using a level. If the deviation is more than 2 mm at 2 meters, level it.

Beacons for pouring screed

Mix the concrete thoroughly using a drill attachment or hammer drill. Ready concrete is a homogeneous mass without lumps or inclusions of dry sand or cement. Wet the floor and pour the concrete. Using a board, level the concrete along the beacons. The screed will gain full strength in 25 days.

To raise the floor level by wooden floor, purchase wooden blocks 50 mm thick. Determine the width using the formula - the difference in the heights of the ceiling and the new floor level minus the thickness of the plywood (floorboard).

Make logs from the bars - guides for plywood. Lay them across the room, the distance between the logs is 40-50 cm. In the place where the bathtub or toilet is installed, the distance between the logs is 20-30 cm. Cover the logs with plywood or floorboard. Join the flooring only at the joists. Do not allow boards or sheets to join together in a space without joists.

These methods raise the floor level both in the entire room and in a separate part. Raising the floor level in one part of the room reduces the load on the floor and reduces the consumption of materials.

After raising the floor level, install and connect the plumbing. If you did everything correctly, then the slope of the sunbed will be optimal, the drainage of fecal and waste water will improve and the chance of clogging will be reduced tenfold.

The operation of the sewer system depends on the correct slope. Deviations from the recommended SNiP slope reduces the efficiency and reliability of the sewer system. From the article you learned what the correct slope should be, how to change the slope and why it is undesirable to touch the sewer riser. You have learned how to raise the floor level on wooden and concrete floors and thus change the slope of the sewer system.

People usually don't ask about sewer levels. But exactly until the sewer level is higher than the toilet, sink, bathtub, shower, washing machine etc... Usually a new building, be it Vacation home in a cottage community, a dacha or an apartment, are always designed taking into account the characteristics of the area and the possibilities of connecting to the existing engineering infrastructure or creating your own systems, for example, treatment facilities. In such cases, the sewer level is initially an “adjustable parameter”. The question “What to do if the sewerage is higher?” It usually arises where the premises are being reconstructed for tasks not initially included in the project.

Until recently, the most common problem with drainage into the sewer was faced by cafes, restaurants, bars, canteens and other establishments that were rebuilding the infrastructure in newly rented premises. And the problem of sewerage level has always been acute for owners and tenants basements. Sometimes even in new apartments with the so-called open plan it turned out that sewage must be raised to the level of the drain into the sewer.

Today, the need to forcibly discharge sewage into the sewer system has become ubiquitous in both the suburban housing sector and apartment buildings. Moreover, we are talking not only about new housing, but also about “secondary” housing. There can be a lot of situations: you decided to organize a sewer system at your dacha, make an “island kitchen”, install a shower, washing machine or toilet in the basement country house. In this case, it turns out that the sewage system will be higher than the shower stall and toilet. And in such a situation, gravity sewerage is impossible. But the solution is actually very simple. So much so that you can plan a bathroom, shower, washing or dishwasher, kitchen - absolutely anywhere in your home, without even thinking about the level of sewerage. I hope this article will help those who are faced with the impossibility of organizing a gravity sewer system for the first time.

The most effective and simple solution for draining sewage is sewage pump. As a rule, a sewage pump is a receiving tank in which a float (or membrane) is installed, which gives a command to turn on the engine at a certain fill level. The engine turns on, grinding occurs (if we are talking about fecal waste) and “release” into the sewer.

P.S. If you have any questions, suggestions, or recommendations, you can write them right here in the comments.

August 7, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

The simplest thing is to connect the bathtub to the sewer

Basic possible problems problems caused by sewerage in the bathroom include bad odors and leaks. And from this follow other “pleasant” consequences - dampness and fungal mold, which can only be gotten rid of by removing the leak.

Sewage problems

Causes of bad odor: 1 problem

The smell in the bathroom from the sewer can appear for several reasons:

• the most common reason why the bathroom smells like sewage may be the lack of a water seal in the siphon;
• and this does not at all indicate that you have a bad drain - the water simply evaporates if the bathroom is not used for a long time - this can happen if the owners are absent for a long period;
• here is the simplest solution to remove the smell - just open the water and let it fill the siphon - the water seal will cut off the “odors”;

• in old houses that are more than 50 years old, the service life cast iron pipes expired, but usually no one changes them, and leaks form due to corrosion, as in the photo above;
• here the causes of the smell may also be the presence of fungal mold or dampness. That is, a leaky pipe does not have to be a sewer pipe - it can also be a water supply;
• the solution to the question of how to get rid of the smell from a leak lies in dismantling and replacing old pipes with new ones - this is better than a welding patch;

• also the reason why the bathroom or toilet stinks may be the lack of fan boner, which must go into the attic or onto the roof for ventilation;
• in some cases, residents of upper apartments, when replacing a fan tee, unknowingly remove fan pipe. As a result, ammonia fumes have nowhere to go, and they penetrate into the room when draining, when the water seal is movable - this is the answer to the question of why there is a smell in the room;

• We continue to consider the topic of what to do if the bathroom smells like sewage and let’s pay attention to another reason - a dirty siphon;
• this problem is especially relevant for kitchen sink, since greasy dishes are washed there all the time, but this is also quite relevant for sinks and bathtubs, it’s just that the bottle or tube will not clog as often as in the kitchen;
• the solution to the problem here is quite simple - you need to disassemble this siphon with your own hands, wash it in warm water With detergent, and put it back together;
• just be careful when assembling so as not to pinch the gaskets; this is especially true for a bottle siphon.

Hiding the pipes: problem 2

Laying pipes and sewerage - required slopes

Now let's figure out how to hide sewer pipes in a bathroom or toilet if the bathroom is separate. There are three ways here - wall decoration or plastic panels, where the sewage system will be under the frame, plasterboard boxes, as in the top photo, or grooves in the wall, which will then be covered with plaster.

Since it is very easy to cover pipes with plasterboard, this method is very attractive for finishers - it is almost dust-free and there is no wet work. But this method has serious disadvantages, especially if the repairs are carried out in a government-owned apartment - frame finishing steals the area of ​​the room - this is at least 4-5 cm on each side. And if your bathroom only has three squares, then this is an unaffordable luxury, since every centimeter is important - the bathrooms may not even fit.

But how to hide the pipes in the grooves is a matter of saving space, but the work itself is very dusty, and then you will have to plaster the walls. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, two edges of the groove are cut according to the diameter of the pipe being mounted, and then the middle is selected with a hammer drill in rebound mode.

An angle grinder raises dust, so it is advisable for you to use a respirator or a gauze bandage, although there are angle grinders with a vacuum cleaner that are quite expensive.

Any DIY installation requires fixing the pipes, and if it is done hidden, then it is better not to use brackets - it is too inconvenient. For fastening in grooves or simply to the wall, metal strip hangers with perforations are excellent - they press the pipe to the surface as much as possible.

Since it is more profitable for you to install such a pipeline with minimal costs in terms of money and space, then simply fasten one end of the suspension with a dowel and a screw, and fix the other “tightly” - this way the communication will be held rigidly.

There is a table at the top of the subheading, so if you make the connections yourself, try to follow them - this is very important. The 32nd pipe is missing from the table, but it is used for dishwashers and washing machines, where the drainage is forced, so that a counter slope is even possible (if technically necessary).

Subtleties of arrangement: problem 3

But what if the drain in the bathroom is below the sewer level and the water remains at the bottom? One way out here is the simplest - to raise this very bathtub so that its siphon is above the outlet level.

To do this, you can place bricks under the legs, and place the container itself without legs on the bricks. Only if you place it without legs, then put it on bricks polyurethane foam so that there is no squeaking later (for heaviness, add water to the bath until the foam dries).

Of course, there is another solution to the problem - connecting a pump to the communication for forced removal. This will certainly be more expensive, but you will immediately solve all the difficulties with the slope, and this is sometimes very important.

I would also like to draw your attention to how to eliminate a leak sewer pipe. Of course, it is best to change it, but if this is not possible, then for metal you can use cold welding, and for PVC glue MOMENT, which after drying is tightly wrapped with electrical tape.

Conclusion

I hope that you understand how to connect the bathtub to the sewer - the siphon is simply inserted into the outlet (tee or corner). Perhaps you will have any additions or questions on the topic - do not hesitate to write about it! And in addition to the topic, watch the video in this article!

August 7, 2016

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