Any business man needs his own equipment workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In this case, a workbench will become a simply necessary element of the workplace, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

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Indeed, to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount of money and, in addition, choosing the right size specifically for your room seems quite challenging task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench to the nearest centimeter.

What kind of workbenches are there?

A workbench is a work table on which a craftsman performs manual work on processing wooden, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, at the dacha and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and a vice. In addition, storage containers are installed in workbenches various instruments and even documentation. Based on the type of work, there are carpentry, carpentry and metal workbenches.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the bench plate and the bench. The underframe looks like a stand (usually two) that are connected to each other wooden blocks. The material of this table element is usually pine or other softwood.

The bench board or cover is made of hard wood, such as oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices need to be installed on the tabletop.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front part and used to fix parts.

In the back part it is necessary to make a recess for storing small tools. There are holes on the edge of the bench board into which wooden blocks and metal combs are inserted. A standard workbench is mainly suitable for self made, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench board with a large number of holes for stops.

Mechanic's workbench

A mechanic's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has metal carcass, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is placed. The lid is edged with a three-sided edge and, in most cases, a bench vice is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high impact loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular is MDF with galvanization, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, such a tabletop is easy to clean from dirt. The bench is equipped with several pull-out drawers for storing tools.

Carpenter's workbench

Another type of such structure is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions significantly larger than the two previous options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpentry workbench. It has a triangle-shaped cutout for securing the board with wedges, and is used when processing its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame from beams, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (the connecting element that holds the structure together). It is advisable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. Installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then we assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. The final fastening is carried out using clamps.

Workbench table top

It is worth recalling that the production of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it at hand. Below we show a drawing of the tabletop, top view.

If the tabletop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid dust getting in there during subsequent work. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be sanded and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters into your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the tabletop, we need to mount a vice on them. To do this, you need to cut a recess on the working surface so that you can place a vertical plate in the same plane as the tabletop. We place the vice in the place where it will stand in the future, preferably not at a corner, and make a mark for drilling. Then fasten it with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make them yourself.

Then we recommend making them rectangular in shape with the ability to adjust the height. It is advisable to make holes for the stops at a length of 50% of the vice stroke. In this situation, you will be able to fix various workpieces well. Video instructions for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

Wooden workbench

Making a metal workbench

Let's look at how you can make a mechanic's workbench with your own hands.

1. Let's determine the height of the future table. It can be different for each person, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision you need to focus only on yourself.
2. Don't forget that the drawings mechanic's workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
3. For a metalworking workbench, the frame is best welded from profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
4. To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to place spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, into which you can later put tools, paint and varnish liquids, or other necessary items.
5. For structural stability, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from wobbling while working.
6. Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize it if possible. This will significantly increase its strength.
7. If you want your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place runners under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and plumbing work. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient when there is no extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait next job. In addition, when folded, it can be transported to the country house. This workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench board and a folding table. It is usually made in smaller sizes than a stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

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A well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpentry workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop in a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself.
Firstly, this will allow you to receive the product the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a high-quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments have given you a reason to think about making a workbench with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a good-quality, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.
A durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts.

The carpentry workbench is essentially massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for equipment of this type are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of devices for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the workbench are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts being processed, as well as the available space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can even be placed on a balcony.

Since the work carried out on a carpentry machine is carried out using manual and electric tool, the workbench is made of solid timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in other words, the workbench board, is assembled only from hard wood. When making countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the tabletop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a workbench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on an edge.

A series of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install thrust elements for easy processing of long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the design, the supporting legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. Between themselves vertical supports connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.
A vice is hung on the front and side of the workbench special design for fastening workpieces. In addition, on large-sized machines, separate clamping devices are installed for large and small parts. Optimal place The location of the carpenter's vice is left-hand side front apron and the near part of the right side panel.

In the underbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a difficult-to-manufacture recess is replaced with a frame made of wooden slats.

Types and design.

All homemade work tables for carpentry work can be divided into three types:
1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with only a vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are intended for working with small, lightweight workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option if there is a lack of space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for small repair work or manufacturing small parts, you can refurbish an old one desk.

2. A stationary carpentry workbench is manufactured with reference to a specific location and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.
carpentry workbench
A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, arranged in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room

3.A compound type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. However, due to its variability, this design is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are connected to each other by bolted joints.
Diagram of a composite workbench
A composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement

Project and drawings.

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will use the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that you will have to work at a carpentry bench for a long time, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.
When determining the distance from the floor to the tabletop, it is best to focus not on average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the same level as the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you will be able to work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a stacked structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long ago determined optimal size tabletops - maximum 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, you can equally easily make a prefabricated wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about strength load-bearing frame. For supporting elements of the structure, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller cross-section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on tenons or dowels; furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamentality of the structure.

Often the frame, or otherwise the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to create a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, let's look at a project for a carpentry table made from plywood, or more precisely from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can, if necessary, be adjusted in accordance with the needs and characteristics of the specific room used as a workshop.
Required tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a fairly expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding delivery costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet measuring 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood at least 300 mm wide, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, to build a carpentry machine you will need:
wooden beam with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
timber or slats with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for the absence of knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will be subject to prolonged load;
electric drill with a set of regular and feather drills;
pieces of boards at least 1.5 m long for placing under clamps;
wood glue. Good result can be obtained using the domestic adhesive composition “Moment Joiner”;
furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
Circular Saw;
carpenter's square;
long rule (at least 2 m);
construction level;
a notched spatula with the size of the cut sectors not less than 3 mm;
carpentry clamps.

The clamps needed to compress plywood sheets when gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have quality instrument, then you can get by inexpensively clamping devices made in China. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions.
1.To make a tabletop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After this, use the rule to check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.
To properly glue plywood sheets, they are folded with their convex sides facing each other.

2. Having laid one workpiece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The manufacturer of Moment Joiner glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not confident in the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time restrictions. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, but even the PVA furniture mixture good quality will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.
Gluing the tabletop
To avoid damage to the workpiece, place it under the clamps. support boards

3. Having laid the second piece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the table top with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It will not be possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.

You can glue plywood sheets into a board without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4.After the glue has dried, remove the clamps and begin to strengthen the side surfaces of the tabletop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued along the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to ensure that upper layer completely covered the joints.
Making a countertop
Reinforcing the side parts of the workbench with additional plywood strips

5.For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is driven smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a carpenter's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. The workbench supports are made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.
Construction of the countertop
Making a carpentry workbench frame

7.The legs are assembled “in a tenon” or using dowels, making sure to apply wood glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frames of the subframe, carefully maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are trimmed correctly. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom rung of 150 mm.
9. To attach the table top to the bench, long drawers are drilled in three places, through which the workbench parts are secured with 8 mm self-tapping screws with a length of at least 100 mm.

10. To ensure that the head of the hardware and the washer do not protrude beyond the support elements, a recess is made in them with a feather drill.
Making a workbench
Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, you can build a shelf in the bench. To do this, a plywood panel is cut to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment.

It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fastening the workpieces being processed. For these purposes, a vice is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that its jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the device on the workbench, apply a vice to the machine and mark the fastening points. After this, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill holes for the washers and bolt heads.
If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vice, there are stops on the work table. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the tabletop. The best stops are considered to be parts made of wood, since metal fixtures may damage the workpiece. Nests under supporting elements placed at a distance equal to half the vice stroke. This will allow you to securely secure a workpiece of any size.

The carpenter's workbench is the cornerstone of a woodworker's workshop. It allows you to properly organize your workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are a fan of manual or electromechanical tools. In this material we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.

About carpentry workbenches

Design and purpose of the workbench

A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. Traditional carpenter's table designed for working with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, use a carpenter's workbench.

A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on thickness wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal height The table is selected based on the height of the master. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make the structure from?

A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.

Wood is traditionally used to make the base. coniferous species. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a workbench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.

The figured cutouts of the frames and supports (part A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On outside The legs are tapped into a conical recess under the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing out tenons and eyes

Spikes and eyes are made on a sawing machine or manually, guided by basic principles creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Side panel assembly

Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.

In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.

The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.

The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Installation of the bench cover

On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and depth 32 mm are drilled for dowels (L).

Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.

Installation of a bench vise

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter's vice at finished form. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches when installing them.

Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.

Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, the lead screw, the socket for the bench stops and the holes for the mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces masking tape and a soft pencil.

It is not difficult to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

A good workbench should be in the household of everyone who works with wood or performs carpentry work.

Before we look at the drawings and start assembling the workbench, let’s get acquainted with its structure and manufacturing nuances.

The workbench consists of a workbench board and a base (underbench).

The board has a vice - one or two, in which the master clamps the parts with screws.

You can place the emphasis directly on the working board of the workbench using wedges that are inserted into holes in the board itself, thereby you can adjust the length of the emphasis in accordance with the length of the workpiece.

The bench board is made of dry wood or plywood up to 8 cm thick. The bench board is made of bars with a thickness of 6 cm.

The underbench is supported by 2 racks, which are transversely fastened together by beams with screws/wedges.

This is necessary so that the workbench does not “move” from side to side when planing and sawing.

Workbench structure in detail:

• The worktop is made of solid wood/plywood with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm;
• Vise on the front of the table top;
• Workbench supports are made of solid wood/plywood, connected by cross bars for stabilization;
• You can install shelves and a tool box on the supports;
• Holes for wedges are drilled in the tabletop to support the workpieces;
• You can make a recess on the side or back of the work board to store tools.

The complete structure of the workbench is shown in the photo below.

1 - cover; 2 - subsurface; 3 - tray; 4 - front clamp; 5 - rear clamp; 6 - sockets; 7 - adjustable wedges (combs)

Workbench dimensions

Here we meet the first important nuance, which cannot be ignored when making a workbench with your own hands - its height and length.

The minimum permissible height of the workbench is 130 cm, length is no more than 260 cm.

The height of the workbench is adjusted to the height of the person working on it:

• too high will not allow you to push hard, which is important when planing;
• a low workbench will force you to constantly hunch over, which will have a bad effect on your back health after just a couple of months;
• the height will be normal if you stand straight, have your back straight and can place your hands on the board without bending your elbows.

Manufacturing nuances

Making a workbench has its own nuances, the observance of which guarantees the production of a workbench that will perform its functions flawlessly.

There are a lot of nuances, so we structure them in relation to each stage of the future assembly process:

1. Initial stage of work. You need to start with a working board. Someone will rush to look for an expensive solid wood, and not just any kind, but according to science - oak, beech or ash. Experts will advise you to take a ready-made wooden table top, which will cost an order of magnitude less;
2. Working with the future work surface workbench. The surface must be made smooth, therefore any wood prepared for the role of a workbench board must be properly sanded. To varnish or not is up to you;
3. An important point is that a workbench is a type of table. Your task, in essence, is to make a table on which they cut not sausage, but wood. Therefore, having assembled the workbench, fasten it thoroughly on four legs and then connect them with transverse slats to each other for stability;
4. Drawers – important element comfort. Take the drawer out of the bedside table and pay attention to how it is installed: there are a pair of guides in the shape of the letter “P” along which the side slats of the drawer slide. Nail two guide rails at a distance from each other equal to the width of the drawer and you’re done;
5. You need a sawing table if you are going to saw. The table is placed 20-30 cm beyond the board itself. It is a small board that is attached to the desktop with screws (see photo);
6. The bench board must be straight. Planing, sawing, burning, carving and other manipulations can be carried out strictly on a flat surface and nothing else;
7. Don't forget the wedges! Wedges are needed to provide emphasis when planing the workpiece. In the table, at a certain step (10-15 cm), you need to drill a row of holes (several rows in a row), into which you will then insert rounded wedges. If possible, use a drill bit square holes– square wedges hold the stop better due to their shape than rounded ones, which are prone to deflecting the vector of the applied load - the workpiece will fly out of the stop every now and then.

Practical instructions for creating a workbench

So, it's time to make your own carpentry workbench. Each stage of assembly is accompanied by a description and photo of the process.

At the end practical instructions Watch the video summarizing the assembly process step by step. We do not provide drawings of the folding version, since it is much more difficult to manufacture.

Let's look at the assembly step by step.

Step 1 – take measurements

Is your back very tense or not? If everything suits you, measure the distance from your palm to the floor - this will be the total height of the workbench.

Step 2 - making the legs

Take ready-made bars required height, or buy plywood and cut the sheets into strips of the required width.

Now they need to be glued together: take wood glue or powerful epoxy, put several layers on top of each other, simultaneously gluing them together.

You may need 10 of these strips of plywood for each leg. It is better to glue together 10 sheets of plywood at once and, after drying, cut them into 4 parts.

Step 3 - making the frame of the workbench

We take a ready-made board, 4 cm thick - 4 pieces, which will be the sides of the frame-box and assemble the box, placing the sides on the screws.

In another case, you can also take several sheets of plywood, glue them together and then saw them evenly.

But in order to properly connect them together later, it is better to use a router and lamellas.

Having drilled the necessary holes, we assemble the wooden box: we place it on PVA glue using the dowels of the board, and clamp it with clamps. After drying, we attach the legs to the box with self-tapping screws.

Step 3 – assembling the tool shelf

From glued plywood (5-6 sheets) we cut out a shelf that is placed in the grooves.

The shelf needs to be secured with confirmations: use a special drill (see photo), which simultaneously chamfers and drills.

The confirmation must be recessed, since this part of the shelf will be used as a guide for the drawer. Now the base of the table is ready.

Step 4 – making a drawer for the countertop

We take a sheet for the bottom and again 4 strips of plywood from several glued layers. By internal parties We will make grooves on two side walls for the bottom of the box.

And on the outside of these walls we make grooves by milling so that the box can move freely on the shelves. We select the cutters as follows: the smaller one is the thickness of the bottom, the larger one is the thickness of the side strips + 1-2 mm.

To secure the side wall, we install dowels: drill holes for the dowels at the ends of the walls, mark a point for drilling on the adjacent wall with a pencil and drill to a small depth.

Then we place the dowels in both holes using PVA glue. For final assembly When installing a drawer, you should use countersunk screws that will not interfere with the opening and closing of the drawer.

Step 5 - making the tabletop itself

Again we cut strips of plywood glued together in several layers for the base of the table top. We connect the strips into a box using dowels and PVA.

If you use round dowels, then you need to take at least 4 of them for each connection.

While the tabletop box is drying, we assemble its working board: we take wide sheets of plywood and glue them together in several layers.

You can also pick up a tabletop from an old desk and then simply adjust it to size. We glue the tabletop onto a box reinforced with dowels.

Step 6 - install the vise

As soon as the glue has set and the tabletop is ready, we drill holes in it for wedges for stops and for attaching a vice.

Typically, the vice is placed on 3 holes: two for fastening with bolts, one for the screw that imparts pressure when the handle rotates.

The vice can be taken from an old workbench or purchased ready-made and then simply adjusted to the tabletop by drilling holes of the required pitch.

A bench vise is a metal screw with guides and a wood clamp.

You can take several layers of plywood about 5-7 cm thick and simply drill holes in it and put it on a screw - you will get a stop, then put snap brackets so that the vice does not fall out and you're done.

You can drill holes in the stop according to the size of the dowel large diameter, then attach it with a screw to a square of plywood, having previously drilled a recess in the square.

Make 4 such stops and place them all over the tabletop to fix the workpieces with the stop in a vice.

Our workbench is ready!

(All the above steps are shown separately in the video of the assembly process)

Rules of care and use

There are a number of rules that must be strictly followed in order for the workbench to last as long as possible:

• Clean the surface from dust and glue after each use;
• Wipe the surface once a month with hot drying oil;
• Do not flood the workbench with water or place anything adhesive on it, including parts to be glued.
• The chopping workbench is not used under any circumstances;
• Place a board or plywood under the workpiece if you want to use a cutting tool.
• Do not over-tighten the vice screws;
• When the screws are tightened, do not hit the vice;
• The workbench is attached to its permanent location using strips with screws or nails;
• The bench board should not move. Otherwise, strengthen all its connection points;
• Wipe wooden screws with dry soap, paraffin or graphite, and metal screws only with machine oil.

A comfortable, well-equipped workplace with a good-quality carpentry workbench can greatly facilitate the processing of wooden products. This makes it possible to speed up the production process and improve the quality of the final product.

If you don’t have time for manufacturing, you can purchase a ready-made workbench in a retail chain. Compared to this option, making a desktop yourself has a number of advantages:

• the ability to get a carpentry workbench of the required size and functionality;
• rational placement of working units and additional equipment;
• purchasing a ready-made workbench will cost much more.

Requirements for the manufacture of the structure

Depending on the intended work, the carpentry table must have the following characteristics:

• The mass and rigidity of the structure must be sufficient to ensure the integrity and stability of the desktop.
• Availability of devices for securing and holding workpieces (stops, screw clamps, etc.).
• Possibility of ergonomic placement of additional equipment.
• The dimensions of the future carpentry workbench depend on the weight and dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed on it.
• The available space in the workshop should be taken into account. There are projects of compact workbenches that allow you to organize a workplace even on the balcony.
• The height of the table should be focused on the physiological characteristics of the person who will work at it.
• Additional devices should be placed taking into account the owner’s main working hand.
• Before you start designing a workbench, you need to decide whether it will be portable or stationary.

The most suitable workbench dimensions for working with wood:

• tabletop length – 2 m;
• width – 70–100 cm;
• table height from the floor – 80–90 cm.

Types of carpentry workbenches

If there are no serious functional requirements for the workbench, for minor work you can use a desk converted for professional needs.

Mobile workbench

This type of carpentry workbench is relevant in case of shortage free space In workshop. Its length is no more than a meter, its width is 60–80 cm, and its weight usually does not exceed 30 kg. A portable mobile workbench is convenient to use for processing small workpieces, minor repairs of carpentry, and wood carving. Thanks to its compact size, the mobile machine can be placed in any room: in the garage, in the country house or on the balcony. For even greater compactness, a folding design is often used.

Scheme for manufacturing a mobile workbench

Stationary workbench

A full-fledged working structure tied to a specific location, without the possibility of mobile movement during operation. Designed for processing workpieces of any weight and length (within reasonable limits). This is a powerful, reliable device, made taking into account the characteristics of the workspace and the personal preferences of the master. Stationary machines must be equipped with special clamps for fixing workpieces. They provide space for fixing the tool and installing additional stops.

Composite carpentry workbench

Thanks to the collapsible design bolted connections, individual machine modules can be easily replaced during operation. The main disadvantage of this device is its complexity in manufacturing (compared to other models), which is largely compensated by its variability during use.

Selecting a project and drawing up a diagram

When drawing up a project, the main parameters that need to be taken into account are height, configuration and functional equipment.

Height. For comfortable long-term work, the height of the workbench should not be more than 90 cm. When determining this parameter, first of all, you should take into account your height (if the workbench is being made for yourself). Also important is the type of carpentry work that is supposed to be performed most often, and those that require the most convenient conditions for their high-quality performance.

Configuration. If there are no workspace restrictions, optimal width– 80 cm, length – 2 m. When configuring a workbench, you need to take into account the presence of shelves, compartments, doors, drawers, their number and sizes.

Functional equipment. To hold workpieces, the carpentry workbench must be equipped with two clamps. The front clamp is located on the left, the rear clamp is on the right end of the workbench. This clamp arrangement is intended for right-handed people. If the master has the main working hand left, the clamps are positioned mirror-image relative to the above-described option.

It is necessary to provide places for fixing electrical and hand tools, technological holes for stops and limiters. Lighting and it is better to place sockets on nearby walls and objects.

Necessary materials

When selecting material for each workbench unit, you need to take into account functional features and the loads to which it will be subjected.

To ensure that the workbench does not turn out to be too massive, light softwood is preferred as the material for making the frame:

• pine;
• alder;
• Linden.

Hardwood, as well as plywood of various thicknesses, is used to make countertops.

The frame for the workbench can be welded from metal square pipe or a corner of a suitable section, but most carpenters prefer wooden structures.

Making a simple table

As an example, we took the production of a carpentry workbench with a tabletop 2 m long, 80 cm wide and 80 cm high. For more rational use time, first you need to glue the tabletop. While it is sticking, you can start preparing components frame and its subsequent assembly.

During the manufacturing process you will need:

• miter circular saw;
• drill;
• electric jigsaw;
• clamps.

Assembling the tabletop

Stacked (glued) board made of hardwood (ash, oak, beech, hornbeam). Recommended tabletop thickness is 60 mm. It is most rational to use planed timber with a section of 60x40 mm for its manufacture. After preparing the length of the beam, it needs to be glued together into a board of the required width. To get a shield 80 cm wide you need to prepare 20 bars 60x40 mm.

For high-quality gluing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The beam is strictly rectangular in cross section (not a rhombus or parallelepiped).
• The shield must be clamped with special clamps that can provide sufficient compression force.
• Gluing is done on a flat plane, and deformation during squeezing must be avoided.

You can do without all of the above and glue the shield together by sequentially compressing the bars together with self-tapping screws or even nails. But in this case, there can be no talk of any flat surface of the tabletop.

Plywood table top. Several sheets of plywood are glued together along a plane. The number of sheets to be glued depends on their thickness and the planned thickness of the countertop. For high-quality gluing of plywood, a flat plane is necessary. The quality of the finished countertop depends on how smooth this plane is.

There are two options for gluing plywood at home:

• Using boards and clamps. Glue is applied to the plywood and compressed with clamps. To ensure uniform compression, boards are placed under the clamps.
• Using boards and weights. Plywood pre-lubricated with glue is placed on a flat plane, boards are placed on top and pressed with a weight.

Making supports

The supporting legs of the work table are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They look quite massive, but this is necessary to ensure structural rigidity. The transverse parts of the frame are made of the same wood as the legs. For this, a beam with a cross section of 60x60 mm is sufficient.

To avoid deformations to which parts made of large-section solid wood are subject, it is better to use for the manufacture of supports. It can be glued together from two or three pieces of smaller cross-section. For example, to make a beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, you need to glue three boards with a cross-section of 105x35 mm together along a plane. After gluing, you will get a workpiece 105x105 mm, where 5 mm is the margin for finishing.

To assemble the frame use tenon joints or dowels. This assembly option requires the presence of special equipment. Otherwise, the process will be unreasonably long. A simpler option is to use metal fastener and fittings (bolts, screws, angles, self-tapping screws).

Frame size:

• length – 180 cm;
• width – 70 cm;
• height – 74 cm.

The height is given taking into account the thickness of the tabletop (60 mm). The length and width of the frame ensures the presence of tabletop overhangs (10 cm per side at the ends, 5 cm per side at the front and back).

When assembling you should get the following blanks:

• Stands (legs) – 100x100 mm, length 74 cm.
• Cross bars – 60x60x1600 mm (4 pcs.) and 60x60x500 mm (4 pcs.).

If you use tenon joints, then the length of the tenon (recommended 60 mm) multiplied by 2 must be added to the length of the workpiece.

Assembling the frame and tabletop

Before assembly, transverse boards with a section of 100x60x800 mm and longitudinal boards of 50x60x1800 mm need to be attached to the bottom of the tabletop along the edges. Cross boards are needed to prevent the tabletop from deforming during use. Longitudinal - for subsequent equipping of the carpentry workbench with clamps.

To securely fix the longitudinal and transverse boards, glue should be used. If you are not sure of the quality of the glue, they can be additionally secured with self-tapping screws or other metal fasteners.

If all dimensions are taken into account correctly, then the workbench frame will fit clearly between the transverse and longitudinal boards at the bottom of the tabletop. The entire structure should be fastened with bolts, through the transverse boards of the tabletop and support pillars(legs). To prevent the bolt heads from interfering, you need to drill countersunk holes for them.

Foldable design

It is advisable to use a folding workbench when the amount of work space is limited and mobility of moving the workbench during operation is required. In most cases, a portable carpentry workbench is equipped with a removable table top and a folding frame.

The tabletop can be hinged against the wall, and the legs can be folded under it. When using this design, the length of the legs should be calculated in such a way that when folded they do not interfere with each other. That is, their length should be less than half the distance between them.

These types of carpentry workbenches are designed for processing small parts. Therefore, the structural elements of these tables are not made as massive as on stationary ones. For the manufacture of support posts, a beam of 100x40 mm, transverse 60x40, is sufficient.

Any board material (OSB, chipboard, plywood) can be used as a countertop material. If the thickness of the slab material is not enough, the tabletop can be reinforced with a frame made of 30x50 timber (the cross-section of the timber is determined by the planned rigidity of the tabletop).

The folding carpentry workbench is assembled using bolts. In order for the table to be quickly disassembled, it is advisable to use special wing nuts instead of ordinary nuts.