Policy regarding the processing of personal data

1. General provisions
This personal data processing policy has been drawn up in accordance with the requirements of the Federal Law of July 27, 2006. No. 152-FZ “On Personal Data” and determines the procedure for processing personal data and measures to ensure the security of personal data of JACKBOT-MASTER LLC (TIN 6313548928 KPP 631301001) (hereinafter referred to as the Operator).1.1. The operator sets his the most important goal and as a condition for carrying out its activities, compliance with the rights and freedoms of man and citizen when processing his personal data, including the protection of rights to integrity privacy, personal and family secrets.1.2. This Operator's policy regarding the processing of personal data (hereinafter referred to as the Policy) applies to all information that the Operator may receive about website visitors.
2. Basic concepts used in the Policy 2.1. Automated processing of personal data – processing of personal data using means computer technology; 2.2. Blocking of personal data – temporary cessation of processing of personal data (except for cases where processing is necessary to clarify personal data); 2.3. Website – a collection of graphic and information materials, as well as computer programs and databases that ensure their availability on the Internet at the network address http://site; 2.4. Personal data information system - a set of personal data contained in databases and ensuring their processing information technologies and technical means;2.5. Depersonalization of personal data - actions as a result of which it is impossible to determine without using additional information ownership of personal data by a specific User or other subject of personal data; 2.6. Processing of personal data - any action (operation) or set of actions (operations) performed using automation tools or without the use of such means with personal data, including collection, recording, systematization, accumulation, storage, clarification (updating, changing), extraction, use, transfer (distribution, provision, access), depersonalization, blocking, deletion, destruction of personal data;2.7. Operator – government body, municipal body, legal or individual, independently or jointly with other persons organizing and (or) carrying out the processing of personal data, as well as determining the purposes of processing personal data, the composition of personal data to be processed, actions (operations) performed with personal data; 2.8. Personal data – any information relating directly or indirectly to a specific or identified User of the website http://site;2.9..10. Providing personal data – actions aimed at disclosing personal data to a certain person or a certain circle of persons; 2.11. Distribution of personal data - any actions aimed at disclosing personal data to an indefinite number of persons (transfer of personal data) or to familiarize with personal data to an unlimited number of persons, including the publication of personal data in the media, posting in information and telecommunication networks or providing access to personal data in any other way; 2.12. Cross-border transfer of personal data – transfer of personal data to the territory of a foreign state to an authority of a foreign state, a foreign individual or a foreign legal entity; 2.13. Destruction of personal data – any action as a result of which personal data is destroyed irretrievably with the impossibility of further restoration of the content of personal data in information system personal data and (or) as a result of which material media of personal data are destroyed.
3. The Operator may process the following personal data of the User 3.1. Last name, first name, patronymic.3.2. Email address.3.3. Telephone numbers.3.4. Details of the identity document.3.5. Address of actual place of residence and registration at the place of residence and (or) place of stay.3.6. The site also collects and processes anonymized data about visitors (including cookies) using Internet statistics services (Yandex Metrica and Google Analytics and others). 3.7. The above data below in the text of the Policy are combined general concept Personal Information.
4. Purposes of processing personal data 4.1. The purpose of processing the User’s personal data is to inform the User by sending emails; conclusion, execution and termination civil contracts; providing the User with access to services, information and/or materials contained on the website; informing the User by sending SMS messages (solely for notification purposes, for informational purposes only).4.2. The Operator also has the right to send notifications to the User about new products and services, special offers and various events. The User can always refuse to receive information messages by sending a letter to the Operator to Email info@site marked “Opt-out of notifications about new products and services and special offers.”4.3. Anonymized data of Users, collected using Internet statistics services, serves to collect information about the actions of Users on the site, improve the quality of the site and its content.
5. Legal grounds processing of personal data 5.1. The Operator processes the User’s personal data only if it is filled out and/or sent by the User independently through special forms located on the website. By filling out the appropriate forms and/or sending his personal data to the Operator, the User expresses his consent to this Policy. 5.2. The Operator processes anonymized data about the User if this is allowed in the User's browser settings (saving cookies and using JavaScript technology are enabled).
6. The procedure for collecting, storing, transferring and other types of processing of personal data The security of personal data processed by the Operator is ensured by implementing legal, organizational and technical measures necessary to fully comply with the requirements of current legislation in the field of personal data protection. 6.1. The operator ensures the safety of personal data and takes all possible measures to prevent access to personal data by unauthorized persons. 6.2. The User's personal data will never, under any circumstances, be transferred to third parties, except in cases related to the implementation of current legislation. 6.3. If inaccuracies in personal data are identified, the User can update them independently by sending a notification to the Operator to the Operator's e-mail address info@site marked “Updating personal data.” 6.4. The period for processing personal data is unlimited. The User may at any time withdraw his consent to the processing of personal data by sending a notification to the Operator via email to the Operator's email address info@site marked “Withdrawal of consent to the processing of personal data.”
7. Cross-border transfer of personal data 7.1 The operator, before starting the cross-border transfer of personal data, is obliged to ensure that the foreign state to whose territory it is intended to transfer personal data is provided reliable protection rights of personal data subjects. 7.2 Cross-border transfer of personal data to the territory of foreign states that do not meet the above requirements can only be carried out if there is consent in writing from the subject of personal data to the cross-border transfer of his personal data and/or execution of an agreement to which the subject of personal data is a party.
8. Final provisions 8.1. The User can receive any clarification on issues of interest regarding the processing of his personal data by contacting the Operator via email [email protected]. 8.2. This document will reflect any changes to the Operator’s personal data processing policy. The policy is valid indefinitely until it is replaced new version. 8.3. The current version of the Policy is freely available on the Internet at

First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time; a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but somehow I didn’t have time. And then my Ufimka burst (it’s about time, it’s been built since 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole appeared in the side in the shape of the letter “G”. Believe me, if I wanted, I could repair it, but imagine how much material I immediately had: oarlocks, magnificent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. All that remains is to purchase sheet plastic. I also considered aluminum as an option, but after becoming familiar with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing worked out with the swaddle - about 1000 NIS for one sheet, but I need at least two. I chose 3mm plastic with the main properties: not to crack under bending load and to keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked precisely along the line of the holes for the rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a carrying capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. non-sinking even when completely filled with water, stern, keel with the keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in rough seas, light when working with oars and with a low dead weight, with the option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a “chest of drawers” ​​for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light racks for spinning rods and, of course, with minimal time for installation and dismantling. I met all these parameters. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working condition, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, side height 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, a stern insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now let's talk about how we had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldiers' mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), the same strips are glued to the seats and feed, all the frame tubes are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I marked on the bow and stern of the boat places for attaching 2 floats, similar to those of the rescuers from the famous TV series). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my Ufimka, set with glue and then riveted. I carried out all the work in my apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the entire system was easily hidden behind the sofa.

I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50w - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for side plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from old boat, plywood for seats and under oarlocks - trimmings, edging along the top of the side - pipe trimmings for drip irrigation. And the rest is hands. I don’t know how much it might cost for sale, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the bottom seam, I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) over 3 seams, there is an option for a tube connection and side seams under oblique supports in the same way as the keel part. As for the flooring, it is enough wooden lattice 50x60cm between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom. I also want to put umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large remainder after cutting. So I went with the minimum.

PS. The cost of materials is indicated in SHEKELS.

Production time, so slowly, is about a week. It took a lot of time to find suitable plastic. I’m retired, so when my household left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that the rubber, rowlocks and oars I had were from a broken boat, and the rest was a matter of technique. But first I made a 25 cm model from thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame made of plastic pipes and thin tarpaulin. When disassembled, it was no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. I want to do something like this too. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine.
As for the pattern, everything is simple. The width of the canvas is 30cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow part is 1.5 meters. Step back 1 meter from the nose edge and bring it in two arcs to the middle. It is clearly visible in the photo. But I still advise you to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape. The model can provide everything possible options, and it’s much easier to correct mistakes. To be honest, I didn’t give any importance to the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and is lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, touched, broken. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), and not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I maintained buoyancy in a flooded state due to additional side linings from a soldier’s rug. The glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing is: cleaning, degreasing and degreasing the surfaces to be bonded, and mandatory soaking for min. 15 minutes after applying the glue, before joining. And I also think it’s very important to additionally cover the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat. thin stripes rubberized fabric, like factory boats.
About the changes. Already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity moves to the “bow” of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overwhelms us, so the seat for the rower was moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. Regarding the height of the side, I proceeded from the maximum cutting of a standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33, will still be preferable, and stability will increase due to an increase in the overall width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
There is no need to hit anyone with oars; when there are two in the boat, the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is only one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one person, but, if desired, the boat can handle the other. Good luck!

Folding boat for Mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

Many didn’t even realize that you could sail in a homemade plywood boat. The article will provide a step-by-step description of all processes for its manufacture, drawings and lists of everything needed from materials to tools. The instructions also include illustrations of the work and a video of the construction being made by a craftsman.

Preparation of material and tools

• Plywood;
• Polyurethane glue;
• Nails;
• Latex based paint;
• Silicone sealant;
• Construction syringe (it will be needed to seal the seams of the structure);
• Sandpaper;
• Jigsaw;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• Brush;
• Clamp;
• Drill;
• Paracord (staples).

One of the sheets of purchased plywood needs to be divided into 3 parts for the bottom of the structure: 46x61 cm, 61x168 cm and 31x61 cm. The sides of the boat will consist of two pieces measuring 31 by 244 cm. To create supports, take 3 pieces with parameters 25x50x2400 mm. A cut measuring 25x76x2400 mm is required for the stern and bow of the boat. The hull of a homemade plywood boat for fishing is made from pieces with dimensions of 25x50x2400 mm.

Note! Subsequently, the pieces will be connected to the body with paracord.

Creating a project with drawings

There are a lot of projects for homemade plywood boats, starting from a simple punt that is used for fishing, to a complex tourist kayak. There are both prefabricated and folding structures. To begin with, let's look at the simplest drawing of the vessel, which is presented below.

If you are not satisfied with a homemade plywood boat according to the drawings that you found, then you can design your own version, but such an undertaking will require more accurate calculations regarding the load-carrying capacity of the structure. Otherwise, if the parameters are incorrect, you can make a huge souvenir that will not be able to keep you on the water.

So, by choosing or creating own project for building plywood boat, we transfer our parameters onto paper, creating a design drawing. Using these paper templates, we draw the contours of the main elements of the boat on plywood sheets, which will serve as a guide for cutting out sheets and frames for sheathing.

Note! In most cases, the size of the factory plywood does not allow cutting a solid element of the boat side. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out the procedure of merging the sheets.

The joining of pieces begins by cutting off the ends of the sheet at an acute angle. As a result, the hewn part should have a length equal to the thickness of the sheet, increased by 7-10 times. The connected parts with the ends cut off are perfectly shown in the diagram below.

Ideally beveled pieces must be coated with glue along the bevel and firmly clamped with clamps using the “mustache” method. While our pieces are being glued together, we can prepare the beams for the boat frame. It will be more convenient to work on trestles specially created with your own hands from 5x5 cm beams.

You can also make a homemade folding boat from plywood, the drawing of which is presented below.

Assembling the hull of a simple boat

First of all, we will make the frames (although you can make them after assembling the plywood frame). Having drawn out and cut out the necessary beams, we fasten them using self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Frames

Note! At the stage of cutting out the elements, deviations from the drawing parameters should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides may not be sewn together.

The assembly of a homemade plywood boat is shown in detail in the video, which is added in the article.

First of all, we install a transom on our sawhorses, to which we attach the bottom and sides, moving them a little towards the middle, connecting them at the bow with staples. For small thickness plywood sheet The sheathing can be joined with suture material or an adhesive mixture. When assembling, carefully ensure that all elements match in size.

Gluing the frames and side is necessary to ensure greater thickness and, accordingly, increase the strength of the structure. Also, in order to increase the reliability of the connections, it is recommended to additionally fasten the transoms and frames with tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws 18 or 25 mm long and 3 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws for the stern and sides are taken a little larger: 60 by 4-5 mm.

Adviсe! If there is a gap when connecting the elements, it is necessary to disassemble everything and cut it to the right size frames. And for a homemade plywood boat for a motor, you need to remember to glue the transom with fiberglass, and also fasten wooden planks made from solid wood.

You can also cut special linings onto the transom to strengthen the structure as a whole. When all the elements are assembled and fit together, you can begin gluing the structure. To make the seams especially neat, you can use masking tape, which is glued on both sides of each seam.

We apply sizing using a mixture of aerosil and epoxy resin(1:1), we work carefully with the fiberglass so that the result is no bubbles. The sizing seams must come out even, and it is also necessary that the wood structure is still visible through the layers of fiberglass.

Then we turn the almost finished boat upside down and remove the staples in case they fasten the elements, and also round the seam joints. Having obtained the desired streamlining, you can glue the seams on the outside.

In addition to gluing, the structure can be reinforced with 3 layers of glass tape or completely covered with fiberglass. You can also add benches to the design, for which we make planks, also cut out the stem and install a bow eye bolt. Materials will be needed for the outer stringers and keel High Quality so that there are no knots. The polished elements will strengthen the structure and also serve as protection for the skin during mooring.

Basics of making a folding structure

You can also make a homemade collapsible boat from plywood according to the above drawing. Such a boat will consist of several independent sections, which in turn represent a part of the structure, the length of which is equal to the distance between the frames that are located nearby. In other words, the boat is “cut” into pieces.

The sections are assembled using bolts, and to ensure a tight fit of the parts to each other, a rubber seal is laid between the sections. Once assembled, all the rest are placed in the largest middle section with a matryoshka doll. And then all the elements can be packed in a fabric case and easily transported by car or other transport.

For the manufacture of collapsible design you will need the following materials:

• Plywood: 2.5 sheets for sheathing - construction 4x1500x1500 mm, part of 1 sheet for the stem and frames - 10x900x1300;
• Boards for removable seats.

It is necessary to purchase plywood of the 1st grade so that there are no knots, but there is a hitch! Boards 6 m long - take one from coniferous 2 cm thick, and the other from any wood 4 cm thick. We also need meter-long beech boards to finish the side of our boat.

First of all, we also create a design drawing, after which we make paper templates for the transom, frames and stem. In the frames cut with a hacksaw according to the templates, you need to drill the corresponding holes for the bolts, after which we connect the sheets. The frames need to be filed and glued on the outside rubber seal 1 mm thick.

You also need to make holes in the frames for rivets, which will be located every 1-5 cm in pairs, screwing in 1 cm from the edge. They can be built independently from wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 3 mm from aluminum wire. The sections are assembled using a conductor.

When all the elements are made and assembled, the entire structure must be impregnated with drying oil, even two layers are recommended. But always on top of dry plywood. When the drying oil dries, the inner part needs to be opened with varnish, and the outer part with oil paint.

Before you start building wooden boat, it is necessary to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the smoothest, longest, wide enough boards that are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat must remain in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choosing boards for work

Before production begins, it is necessary to once again ensure that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board you need to measure desired length and carefully cut them at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After this, you need to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.

The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, using a triangular block. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to select a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the supply, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to begin assembling the product. You should start from the bow. Both sides and the triangular block must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions at the top and bottom so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, since it is necessary to give the future boat its shape. You need to decide on the width of the boat and place a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer that is the same size as the height of the boat, so the sides will not burst.

Once the brace is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people to help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure in place.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern to make the boat so that when connected back wall and there were no gaps or cracks left on the sides.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from below, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next we work on the spacers, which will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats, which are installed on top of the spacers. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the bottom in one plane and process protective layer the entire surface. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom would be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that matches the size of the boat.

How to make the bottom of a boat with your own hands

Place the future boat on a sheet of metal and trace its boundaries with a marker, do not forget to take a few centimeters of extra space just in case, you can always trim off the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection between the boat and its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it has dried, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary to ensure that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water inside.

When this process is completed, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move towards the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off the excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle of tin to the size of the boat.

Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to go through with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start “wrapping” the bow with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.

Be sure to make a fastening on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since it will attract attention on a body of water. Special attention due to its novelty.

Before you build a boat, think through and look at all the ideas that you can use to make a boat. Perhaps you will choose a special material for yourself that will be more convenient for you to work with, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Don't forget to cover the bottom with reverse side special paint, since galvanized metal is destroyed over time when in contact with water. The wooden parts of the boat must be coated with several layers of special impregnation and the boat must be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, inside the boat on its bottom you can lay out wood flooring. This way the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

At this point the boat will be ready. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with a description in order to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.

DIY boat photo

Homemade plywood boat (master class, photo, step by step)

So we finally got around to fulfilling our old dream and started building a boat. For the first time I chose an easy project, so to speak for training. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and there I spied something and bought the missing materials, for which special thanks to the owner of the shipyard.

This is what the boat should look like:

Today I cut out sheets of plywood and began the most important and difficult process, in my opinion, which is cutting and gluing sheets of plywood. Because the length of the boat exceeds the length of standard plywood sheets, they have to be spliced, there are many ways to do this, but I chose the most technically complex, but also more aesthetic option gluing "on the mustache".

Let's mark it.

We process the plywood sheets first with a plane and then with a sander.

This is what it looks like during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After adjusting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under the press.

That's all for now preparatory work along the boat, after the sheets are glued together I will start marking and cutting out the parts.

At first I practiced miter joints on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at, but experience came from working on the “finish” version :) I hope I can continue to master everything.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Maximum length............2.64 m
Maximum width............1.28 m
Side height...........................0.38 m
Body weight........................30 kg
Load capacity...................180 kg
Crew...................................2 people
Permissible power p/motor...2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled the sheets out from under the press and removed the strips between which they were sandwiched. The joint turned out to be smooth and very strong (then we tried to break the scraps from the bottom, but it did not break at the joint of the sheets). In this way we obtained blanks of the required length for making the boat.

I start marking by marking the center line, from which all the dimensions will then go.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it looks like it turned out beautifully:

I start cutting. It is advisable to take a jigsaw at high speeds; use files for figured cutting plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We follow the markings strictly :)

Half of the bottom is ready.

And here is the bottom in its entirety :)

We mark one side, then we put two blanks on top of each other and fasten them with clamps, after which we cut out both sides at once.

I mark and cut out the transom.

At the joints of the plywood sheets, we remove the chamfer with a grinder and begin sewing the boat with copper wire clips.

We carry out work from stern to bow.

You can't do this without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

These are the seams you get.

Here the boat is ready :)

Try it on for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today we have really moved towards the final stage of completing the project :)
The first thing I did was pull all the staples tighter. I checked the geometry of the boat. Then I used a chisel to edge the brackets at the internal joints of the sides. After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and secured them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt eyes on me. By the way, here is a view of the straightened boat from the stern.

To make the seams more even, I decided to fill the lines with masking tape, it turned out beautifully.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but in the meantime I drew out the frame templates and began assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled using epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

I finally started gluing the internal seams, I didn’t think it was like this painstaking work:) For the first time, everything seemed to work out great. The resin has saturated the fiberglass fabric normally, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, smooth and transparent. The photo shows that the structure of the wood is visible through three layers of glass tape, which means everything is normal.

Here's what was done last time: the frames were adjusted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and secured them with glue and screws, and cut out reinforcing linings for the transom.

After that, I turned the boat over, removed all the staples from the wire and began rounding the seam joints.

And now that everything was prepared, I started gluing the external seams.

The seams turned out smooth and well saturated, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished shaping the boat’s hull, next time I’ll install the benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this turns out to be fiberglass. The self-tapping screws from the frames can be completely removed; after gluing, they will no longer be needed. By the way, some people do just that. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull.

Today I went to make a boat only in the evening, because... I waited for the glue to set well. I checked the external seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that I decided to make slats for the benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench attached.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut slats for the rear bench, but it’s too early to install them.

Apparently prolonging the pleasure of the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything efficiently, I’m making the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, screws and high-quality lumber without knots. All this was intended to install the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements will give greater strength to the bottom, as well as protect the boat while mooring to the shore, and protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut out the slats, sanded them and installed them in place using glue and screws.

Also today I installed a stem and a bow eye bolt for tying a rope or anchor rope.

Work had to be stopped for today because... the whole thing should be firmly grasped; for this I used additional weights.

By the way, the bench blanks have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the inside of the boat.