Rusts made of polyurethane. Rusts on the facade are an inexpensive and simple way to decorate external walls. Rusts on the facade are made for the purpose of

The rusticated facade is a cladding external walls at home by creating recesses in the plaster, or by gluing elements that divide it into parts.

What is rustic? This word translated from Latin means “rustic”, “rough”, “uncouth”. In architecture, this word refers to stones tightly fitted to each other. rectangular shape, with a smooth line around the perimeter.

This type was used in Ancient Rome, thereby protecting the walls of the first floors of the building from moisture and noise, as well as from impacts of passing carts.

Despite their ancient origins, rusticated facades in Russia appeared only in the 18th century, and belong to the Neo-Renaissance style.

Methods for creating rustics

There are several ways to create rustications with your own hands.

  • Padding;
  • Sawing;
  • By embedding the slats;
  • By drawing according to a template;
  • Pulling out stones along with rustics;
  • Decorative rustications made of polystyrene foam.

Making rustications

Before creating, the surface of the walls is marked with stones using a cord or ruler. Let's look separately at each of the ways to create rustications on the facade.

Rusts on polystyrene foam

One of the most popular methods is the decision to create rustics simultaneously with insulating the building with polystyrene foam.

  • The façade is rusticated using a special rustling machine such as Wind-Lack due to a bendable plate that does not change shape when heated. The price of such a knife is about $400.
  • To maintain smooth contours, 2 galvanized steel templates are usually used. You can see one type of such a machine in operation in the photo.


  • Expanded polystyrene is glued to the facade using Ceresit CT 83, CT 85 glue. To do this, apply the solution liberally to the foam and press it to the facade. detailed instructions the sticking is shown in the video.

  • After drying, after about three days, a base reinforcing layer is applied. To do this, a fiberglass mesh is embedded in Ceresit CT 85 adhesive.

Advice!
Start gluing the mesh with small elements and finish on the main plane of the wall. Do not forget that you first need to apply glue to the wall, and then recess the mesh.

  • After this, you need to apply the quartz primer Ceresit CT 16. It can be as follows: white, and with the addition of color. A primed façade can remain in this condition for several years.
  • When the primer dries, you can finish the wall with decorative plaster. It comes in several types: mineral, bark beetle, painted with acrylic, silicone or silicate paint.

Advice!
We recommend using the following types of plaster for finishing the façade: acrylic Ceresit CT 60 (pebble), CT 63 (large bark beetle), CT 64 (medium), silicate-silicone CT 174 (pebble), CT 175 (bark beetle).

Stuffing with a ruler

  • Rusts are filled with a metal ruler over a fresh layer of covering.
  • A ruler 5-15 mm thick is applied to the marked line. and by 5-10 mm. goes deep inside with hammer blows.
  • Then the ruler is smoothly removed so as not to damage the edges.

Sawing

If you want to get thin rustics, then use a saw or grinder. In this case, a cut is made on the final layer, which has already hardened.

This work is most conveniently carried out by three people: one worker creates the recesses, and the other two move the stop along the wall.

Using this method, you can achieve different widths of the rustication; for this, several parallel cuts are made, and the contents between them are knocked out with a chisel. Rough lines are corrected and rubbed with trowels.

Wood slats

With the help of slats you can create rustics of large width. To do this, lubricated wooden slats with a trapezoidal cross section. Depending on the required depth, the slats are installed in the covering or primer of the plaster.

When the solution dries, the slats are removed and defective areas are corrected manually.

Pulling while plastering

You can also pull out rusty areas while plastering. To do this, the surface of the frozen soil is divided into parts, templates are hung and, simultaneously with the application of the final layer of plaster, the rustications are pulled out.

If deep rusts are necessary, the base underneath them is removed.

Depending on the size and shape of the rustications, work on their creation using this method is carried out by two or three people. Two workers apply the coating solution, the third holds the template. First they are made horizontal stripes, then vertical. When all the lines are ready, they are rubbed with a smooth wooden strip, which is passed along the previously created rusts.

Stucco molding


The easiest way to create rusticated facades is to use ready-made decorative elements made of expanded polystyrene. They are stucco molding that is attached to liquid nails or construction adhesive. Installing such elements is a simple and quick task, which is almost no different from gluing stucco molding inside a building.


Conclusion

Rustication of facades is quite an expensive, responsible and labor-intensive process, but the result will look unusually beautiful and luxurious. If you want to create a home in classic styleThe best decision for you the use of rusticated facades.

In the classical architectural design of building facades, there is such a thing as rustication - sections of a wall or an entire wall, the finishing of which is presented in the form of piece cladding products with a clearly visible seam.

It is this seam that separates piece products from one another along its square or rectangular perimeter and is called rustication. At the same time, it is important to know that rustication can be made in different bends, that is, shapes in its cross section, but at the same time remain strictly rectilinear.

This decoration technique was used to give a feeling of heaviness and monumentality to the building and was performed using purely stone piece materials. However, such materials are expensive, and laying them is quite difficult, therefore, imitation is often densely performed, which is rusticated plaster.

Previously, the process of producing such a “wet” finish took a lot of time, but today rusticated finishes are carried out mainly using modern technologies and materials, which makes the process much easier. Actually, we’ll talk about how to accomplish it both according to modern and traditional technologies, as well as what types of it there are.

This type of plastering is carried out not only on the planes of the walls and their individual sections, but also on architectural and structural areas such as the base of the building, pylons, pilasters, columns, arches and many others.

The shape of the rustication, as well as its depth, regulate the appearance, adding or subtracting from the massiveness of the parts of the building, made in architectural style. decorative design in this manner.

The profile contour of the template itself, from which the rustication of the seams is made (stretched, cut), consists of a standard set of lines - architectural breaks. Thus, we can select a list of rusticated plasters based on their rustication design:

  • "Greek";
  • rectangular;
  • beveled;
  • rounded;
  • grooved;
  • figured.

In addition to what shape the rustication has, for appearance The shape of the quads is also important - sections of planes that are framed/separated by rustications. They can be either flat and not protruding, or have the shape of a torn stone or a prism, a pyramidal convex shape, or a grooved rectangular shape.

Greek rustic has a small recess, similar to a rectangular one, but the difference is the alternation of rows of small and large rectangular stones, made with a rusticated seam in a “layout”. The quadra themselves, imitating Greek stone, are flat (imitating polished stone). There is also a slightly different type of imitation - under Roman masonry, when the squares imitate rough-hewn stone.

Rectangular rustication is the most common and does not have a special set of architectural breaks; the seam is a rectangular slot of moderate depth and can be made when decorating quads in almost any shape. It is especially used when rusticating plaster of a small layer thickness.

Beveled rustication has a triangular cross-section, tapering inward. This imitation creates the impression of special heaviness and massiveness of the blocks and gives them a trapezoid shape due to the fact that the sharp, protruding corners are presented as beveled. In order to perform such a rustication, you need to apply a thick layer of plaster, or brickwork should be made with recesses in places of rustication.

Rounded rustication similar to the previous one, it is performed over a thick layer of plaster. Rusticized plaster made in this way looks more harmonious with oval, semicircular elements of the structure and light architectural orders, although, as they say, “it depends on taste and color.” Internal corners sharp, external ones are absent, because they are ground into a radius, but the junction of vertical and horizontal seams is made without rounding.

Grooved rust It consists just like the rounded one, of a radius and a rectangular break, only the radius is not straight, but inverse, which forms a groove-shaped seam. Such a rustication looks very wide (in general, it is so) and when developing a sketch, it is important to calculate the size of the squares so that they do not look too small in relation to such rusticated seams.

Figured rust is already considered complex, as it consists of a whole complex of architectural fragments. There are a lot of different combinations of architectural scraps from which you can get a rusticated seam of the most varied shapes. The width of such a rustication can be very large, as well as the depth, therefore it is not possible to perform it on an ordinary layer of plaster (2.2 cm - maximum according to SNiP). It is performed exclusively in one way - by pulling using a template.

Decoration of the facade with rusticated plaster using traditional technologies

This option does not provide for the installation of an insulating façade layer, which is so popular today. However, it is still possible to combine materials, especially you can take modern plaster compositions and perform the work of forming rust using them.

According to traditional technologies, imitation of sections of the facade of a house under rusticated stone is made from ordinary cement or cement-lime plaster composition, applied using conventional technology with the presence of layers of sanding and primer.

In this case, work on the formation of rustications can be carried out on freshly rubbed plaster, or they can be carried out directly together with plastering. One way or another, there are several options for performing rustications on the facade of a building, the list is as follows:

  • drawing out rustications using a template;
  • production of rustications with wooden sheathing;
  • cutting rustications using a saw according to the rule;
  • filling of rustications with a metal strip.

There are special design ideas when the rust itself is framed (edged) with a pattern or a solid strip drawn along the perimeter of the quadra. This frame is being modified separately hand tools, as well as the quadra themselves, if they are made with relief or a certain form flatness protrusion.

is carried out as plastering proceeds according to special guides (rules), which are mounted above and below the rustication line. In this case, rustication is performed on a freshly applied layer of soil and is formed by linear movements of the template along the slats.

There are several ways in which façade rustication is done using a template: pulling one tape and pulling two tapes. In the first case, the template forms only one strip of the rustication seam, while in the second, the template has protrusions for drawing two parallel rustications at once. In this case, the template can have the profile of the quadra itself, that is, in this way it is fashionable to draw out two rustications and a figured quadra at the same time.

, perhaps the easiest way to get the job done. Its essence is to “monolithize” it into a freshly applied and leveled layer of soil, that is, to embed slats that repeat the profile of the rustication. This is done by rubbing or vibrating by lightly tapping the slats with a hammer.

First, the horizontal slats are recessed, then the vertical ones to form a sheathing. After the solution begins to set, the slats are carefully removed, and defects are rubbed out if necessary. There is also an amateurish method, when these slats are installed as beacons by gluing them onto continuous strips of the mortar with which the entire surface is supposed to be plastered. When the solution has firmly set, the solution is applied between the slats, like beacons, and leveled.

can be used to ensure that the surface of the rusticated chalk is fine and shallow rusticated. In this case, the work is carried out on slightly hardened, rubbed plaster according to the preliminary planned surface markings. In order to make even cuts, the saw is leaned against a rule firmly pressed to the surface being processed.

The formation of the rust joint itself is carried out in several working operations: cutting the lower border of the rust, the upper border and scraping the mortar between them (you can scrape it with a thin spatula or chisel). You can also rub the resulting seam itself with a piece of foam plastic cut to its shape and size.

enough difficult process, in which the plaster has to be rusticated with a tool not long more than a meter, and monitor the uniform depth of the resulting seam along its entire length. The ruler is laid according to pre-made markings. Such rustication can be no more than 10 mm thick, the depth of which largely determines the complexity of the entire process.

In this case, it is very important to wait for a certain moment, at which the solution has not yet completely set, but will no longer “float” from the vibration created by hammer blows on metal instrument(ruler). The depth of the seam made in this way can be no more than 10 mm, and its shape can be rectangular, and it is especially convenient to perform beveled and trapezoidal rustications in this way.

Modern plaster of a rustic facade, that is, finishing it using the “wet method” is carried out using a layer of insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards. The work begins with preparing the surface, that is, leveling it with rough plaster (cement-sand/cement-lime or modern polymer-cement), laying a continuous layer of insulation, and then marking the lines of future seams.

The quads themselves are formed from these slab materials by laying them in compliance with the seam, and a special profile made of plastic or aluminum is placed in the seam between them. The most common are square profiles, but there are also all types that were considered rusticated walls using traditional technologies.

This profile has perforated planes that adhere to the slabs and lay them on glue. Then everything goes according to technology: installation of fiberglass mesh over insulation boards on an adhesive plaster composition and a secondary covering with the same composition over the dried glued fiberglass mesh.

After this, either preparation for painting is carried out, which consists of applying a sandless coating, or preparation for (bark beetle, pebble, mosaic) and in this case the surface is treated with primer paint with quartz sand filler. Thus, rusticated pilasters, as well as rusticated columns, in addition to walls, arches and many other elements of the building, can be completed quickly and efficiently.

As you can see, with modern technologies the work is performed in the same way regardless of the shape of the rustication. In addition, there are special shaped rusticated slabs that are not required for finishing at all, except perhaps for painting, but this already applies to facing works, and not to plaster.

The rusticated façade is beautiful cladding, which can be produced by the most different methods.

Methods for creating rustics

Before making rustications, the walls, using a ruler and cord, are marked for further actions. Next, the rustics themselves are mounted or manufactured different ways, which I will tell you about today.


Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene rustics are popular not only because easy to manufacture and installation, but also due to its versatility, since the building is simultaneously decorated and insulated.
Polystyrene is glued to the facade using Ceresit glue brand ST 85 or ST 83. Apply glue to the foam (in a fairly generous layer) and press it to your facade.
Once the glue has dried, apply a reinforcing layer. To make it, the same glue is used as for installing rustications, but fiberglass mesh is also added to the composition.

Important! First apply glue to the wall, and then embed the mesh into it. It is advisable to start installing rustics with the smallest elements!


Once all of the above is done, apply a base primer over the foam. Its color can be either simply white, or with the addition of some kind of dye, it all depends on the overall design of the building and your wishes.
Primed foam plastic rusts can serve without losing their original appearance for many years, then the primer will have to be renewed.
If desired, you can apply it over the dried primer. decorative plaster, this will extend the life of the rust.

Linear packing

Rusts are pressed onto fresh plaster using an iron ruler. First, mark the lines along which the filling will take place, and then take an iron ruler with a thickness of 5 to 15 millimeters, depending on the design, and immerse it with hammer blows into the not yet hardened facade coating. The result is a beautiful drawing. The rustics on the facade look very beautiful, they are worth the money and time spent.

How they did it massive facades in old times? Are the secrets of architects available today? What material is best suited for such work? In this article we will describe the ancient method of creating rusticated facades and tell you how to adapt it to modern conditions.

In the article “History and types of rusticated plaster” we talked about the features of rusticated plaster. If desired, such a facade can be made with your own hands, using the original technology used 200-300 years ago. In this case, the facade of the house will not only beautiful design, but also a source of pride for the owner. This painstaking work, in which you will have to invest time, skill and soul.

All facades require an understanding of the final appearance. In the case of rusticated plaster, the work strategy depends on the final appearance of the entire exterior of the house. This concept is appropriate here because façade detailing can be very complex and contain many different solutions and elements. They can be implemented in any way, but the design must be completed completely before finishing work on the facade begins.

Classic or “wet” method

In most cases, along with finishing, the facade is also insulated. And already at this stage you should choose a rustication method. The old “wet” method can be used on insulation with a solution thickness of no more than 20 mm. This significantly limits the scope of application and rusting options. Therefore, the classic method is more suitable for buildings with thick brick walls and without any problems with heat loss. As a rule, these are the buildings that make up the historical fund. Wall thickness from 800 mm compensates for the lack of insulation (for stone), which had not yet been invented at that time. If you choose the right light (insulating) solution composition, you can withstand a quadra thickness of up to 45 mm.

So, we have a flat wall plane. It can be aligned with beacons (with cavities), be simply brick or insulation, which is already covered with reinforcing layers.

Stage 1. Marking

Since rustication, in essence, is a geometrically correct pattern, it will require even markings before starting work. A detailed drawing of the facade with dimensions is the main factor for success in this matter. Starting pointshorizontal lines- should be immediately drawn on the rough surface. You should also note the vertical edges of the first and last quadra in the row.

Stage 2. Making a template

Sample - main tool when forming a “wet” rusticated facade. It is a profile board with a figured “cutter” made of wood or metal attached to it. This cutter will cut the rust. You can make it by cutting out a 20 mm figure from plywood with a jigsaw. the desired profile and fixing it on the board.

Stage 3. Extracting horizontal rustications

The chosen method is to form a rustication that extends into the quadra, i.e., creating the edge of the quadra plane like a lighthouse. To do this on required height The guide (bar) along which the template will move should be strengthened. There are many options for making a guide; each master makes a template and a guide for himself.

1 - example of a template; 2 - profiled metal plate; 3 - guide bars

Important point. When making a guide, keep in mind that it should not only ensure smooth movement of the template, but also set the thickness of the layer under the rustication. Provide grooves in it into which the template board will fit.

Having carefully measured the template, we fix the guide at the required distance from the horizontal axis of the marking. Apply a solution of approximately the required thickness. If the template is double, then on two axes. We stretch the template along the guide, removing excess solution. Thus, by rearranging the guides, we go through all the horizontal planes.

Stage 4. Extraction of vertical rustications

To pass vertical rustications, first mark the plane. We adjust the guide and template board for vertical work. The difference will be that it will no longer be possible to simply strengthen the vertical block to the wall - the applied horizontal rustications will interfere. The guide should stand up, allowing the finished rustics to pass underneath, and the template board should be modified so that it can withstand the specified thickness of the layer under the rustication under these conditions.

Stage 5. Corners, window and door frames

At this stage, special precision and accuracy will be required. We mark the plane according to the original project and sketches. In a similar (described) way, but with the help of temporary fastenings, we create rustics and quad beacons.

Stage 6. Filling the squares

Since it was said above that the template specifies not only the rustication, but also part of the quadra plane, filling the voids becomes the simplest part of the work.

Important! Maintain a uniform composition of the solution to avoid the appearance of defects due to varying degrees of moisture absorption and thermal conductivity.

Stage 7. Finishing

If cement or ready-made insulating mortar was used during the work, then the facade should be covered with finishing putty for exterior work, and then painted.

Another type of “wet” method is rust removal (not to be confused with the “extraction” described above). Removal is carried out in literally all available ways:

  1. The rust is pressed into the pattern using a hammer and a metal block.
  2. It is cut out and scraped out of the raw mortar with special saws, scrapers, and chisels.
  3. Cut into dried mortar using mechanical tools.

Something in between the methods described above is the “crate” method. More simple shapes rusta (trapezoid, triangle, rectangle, semicircle) can be made by creating a lath, which is then fixed to the wall. The cells of the sheathing are filled with solution, and after setting, it is removed. In this case, the wooden laths of the sheathing can have a figured profile.

Ready-made lightweight heat-insulating solutions:

Name, manufacturer Density of dry solution, kg/m 3 Consumption, kg/m 2 * Packaging, kg Packaging price, rub. Price 1 m 2 *, rub.
Teplover Light, Ukraine 280 3,8 7 230 125
Teplover Premium, Ukraine (waterproofing + insulation) 370 3,5 7 700 350
SAY THERMOPLAST THERMOVER, Türkiye 311 3,2 7 500 228
SATSYS ThermoUm Standard, Czech Republic 380 3,0 7 560 240
SATSYS ThermoUM Xtra, Czech Republic (improved properties) 360 3,0 7 660 282
SATSYS ThermoUm THERMOSAN, Czech Republic (waterproofing + insulation) 420 3,5 7 590 295

* - with a layer thickness of 10 mm

This labor-intensive and multi-stage method was used in the old days. Today we have in our “arms” modern materials and technologies that not only facilitate, but also speed up work, making it relatively easy and in some ways even enjoyable. We will talk about this in the next article.

Today, rustication is most often understood as a method of decorating a plastered facade using imitation - in certain sections of the walls - of masonry made of large stones with deliberately emphasized seams.

It's easy to do it yourself.

There are different ways to do this.

Initially, in architecture, rustication (or rustication) meant relief masonry or cladding of the walls of a building or their fragments with quadrangular stones correctly folded and tightly fitted to one another. The front side of these stones was left unhewn or very roughly hewn, and along the perimeter they were edged with a narrow, smooth strip. Thanks to this decoration, the building gave the impression of massiveness and strength. Both the stone itself and the edging strip were designated by the word “rust”. Over time, rustication, along with facing with stones, began to be called a stucco fake for them, as well as finishing with plaster, reproducing rustication in the form of breaking the wall into relief rectangles or stripes with deliberately emphasized seams. Imitation of rustications is performed on the corners and base of the building, around window and doorways. As a rule, rustications in two- and three-layer plaster are performed by moving a special template along guide rails attached to the wall, cutting a seam of a given configuration.

How to make a rustication template

The template consists of slats and a tin cutting plate attached to them, the profile of which corresponds to the configuration of the seam (rust). Typically, a profiled plate is cut from steel sheet 0.65-0.80 mm thick and nailed to the main lath with a thickness of 19 or 22 mm so that the edge of the plate protrudes 3 mm beyond the edge of the lath. Both edges (both wooden and metal) need to be cut at an angle so that when moving the template they tightly press the plaster solution.

A slide is nailed to the lower edge of the rail with a profiled plate - a horizontal profile with a rail, which ensures the movement of the template along the guide. Often the template structure is reinforced with bars, which serve as a grip for the plasterer. If the distance between the rustic seams is no more than 50 cm, then a double template is used. In this case, you can perform two rusts at once, which significantly speeds up the work.

Fastening the guides

The guides are made of simple planed wooden slats. They are fixed (after precise horizontal alignment) on the wall using screws or hooks driven into the seams. The guides must be coated with grease or wired so that they do not absorb water from the solution and do not warp, and also for easy movement along the guides.

Performing rustication in plaster using a template

Tracing rustications

Before you start cutting rustics, you need to spray with liquid cement mortar. Then, according to the working drawing, auxiliary lines are marked on the wall. They can be applied using a paint tap. Shorter lines are usually drawn with a pencil and a ruler. If

The rustications must be deep, then the grooves in the wall should be made while laying the walls, but they can also be made before starting plastering work.

Do-it-yourself rustication

After fixing the guides and performing the spraying, a coating of cement-lime mortar is performed.

There should not be too much of it in the area of ​​future seams - a maximum of 1 cm more than the depth of the seam. This will significantly reduce solution consumption.

To make the grooves, the template is moved along the guides along the wall forward with the beveled edge, pressing firmly against the wall. The uneven areas are filled with mortar and re-leveled with a template.

This process is repeated until the desired shape and smoothness of the seam is achieved. The last pass is most often performed with the unbeveled edge of the template. Then the guides are removed, and the space under them is filled with solution and smoothed.

Finishing rustications.

The surface of rectangular blocks outlined with rusticated seams often has not only a different color but also a texture that differs from the texture of most of the wall. As a rule, structural plasters with a pronounced relief are used for this, which make it possible to give the blocks a resemblance to natural stone.

Imitation of rustications

Traditional rustics are performed on one- or three-layer brick wall. At the same time, owners of houses with double-layer walls, using very simple way can imitate them. It is enough to glue appropriately cut slabs of polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 2 cm to the wall. Then put a fiberglass mesh on them and apply it on top thin layer plaster. To highlight these parts, the color of the plaster applied to them should be different from the color of the walls.

Another way to make rustics yourself

Typically, straight profiled rustications are much easier to execute. Wooden slats are fixed in the marked places, and then the gaps between them are filled with mortar and leveled with a rule lath or grater. After the plaster has hardened, the slats are removed. They cannot be torn off abruptly - first they need to be slightly loosened. For this purpose, hammer the ends of the slats, moving them along the groove. Then the slats are carefully pulled back and removed, immediately eliminating possible damage plaster.

Do-it-yourself rustics: useful to know

Rusts, or rusticated stones (from Latin rusticus), - rectangular or square decorative elements, installed, as a rule, at the corners of the building. They are arranged in different ways: in a checkerboard pattern, in the form of slabs of the same width, etc. They give the facade massiveness, enliven its plane with relief, play of light and shadow. Previously, rustics were made from natural stone, but now, due to the considerable weight and high cost of such decor, other solutions are more often used.

In most cases, lightweight and economical elements made of polystyrene foam (they are cheaper, but less durable) or polyurethane (they are more expensive, but stronger and more resistant to temperature changes) with subsequent painting are used, as well as heavier and more expensive products made of artificial (concrete) materials. stone, etc. This decor is presented in the form of individual rusticated stones (rectangular, corner) or rusticated panels - vertical parts in which 3-4 rusticated stones are combined.

The thickness of the elements is usually 30-50 mm. They are fixed to the plastered facade adhesives, usually on cement based. To increase the durability of the facade, it is recommended to protect the rustications from moisture: for example, cover them with water repellents, paint with paint with water-repellent additives, etc.

Another technology involves creating rustics using a layer of plaster. In this case, first plaster the entire surface of the facade, be sure to

providing reinforcing mesh (fiberglass, metal, etc.) at the corners to protect these parts of the building from deformation under the influence of rust loads. Need to wait completely dry(strength gain) of the solution. Since for exterior finishing As a rule, cement-based compositions are used; this process takes at least 28 days.

Then vertical and horizontal guides are installed along the corners - most often wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 x 50 mm, attached to the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. Using guides, cells are formed that correspond to the design of the future decor. The surface of the wall is primed, after which the cells are filled with a solution, also on a cement base, removing excess and leveling the layer of plaster. In this case, a spatula or other tool is used.

The thickness of the mortar layer is usually up to 30 mm. It takes less time to cure the composition than drying the base layer of plaster - about a week. When the solution has gained strength, the guides are dismantled, sealing the holes from the screws with repair cement composition. After this, the surface of the rustications is either puttied and then painted, or covered with decorative plaster.