The house requires appropriate infrastructure support. In particular, the chimney and ventilation system provide for the organization of exit through the roof. Previously, this possibility was provided with the help of special openings, which, after installation, were properly sealed with sealing means. Nowadays manufacturers engineering equipment offer more reliable solutions, including roof penetration, which is installed directly into the roof structure.

What problems does roof penetration solve?

To determine the purpose of such additions, it is worth turning to the function of the roof itself. It must protect the house from precipitation and other external influences, while maintaining optimal heat, noise and waterproofing performance. The presence of holes and cracks in the roof is not allowed, therefore communications passing through the roof must be carefully sealed at points of contact with the finishing material and the load-bearing structure. In turn, roof penetration initially creates a minimum free space, which is not used for engineering purposes. At the same time, it promotes effective removal smoke and air, protecting roof materials from thermal effects. Ventilation systems, by the way, often lead to the formation of condensation in the outlet areas air flow. Special units for such channels prevent the processes of drip formation, removing moisture outside.

Types of penetrations

There are several classifications of roof penetrations. First of all, you should focus on a specific purpose. Manufacturers produce special models for organizing the passage of antennas, pipes, and chimneys. Whether a unit belongs to a specific group is determined by both the design and the material of manufacture. So, not all types of penetrations can be adjacent to a stone chimney. Also, plastic devices are not compatible with some types metal pipes. The nodes also differ in shape. Most widespread received round and square sections, but in some cases only roof penetration corner, which has its disadvantages, but also advantages. Structures with such a cross-section, for example, are advisable to use in cramped conditions or when laying non-standard coverings.

Ways to control penetrations

All penetrations provide the ability to remove air through the roof. Thus, a channel is formed, which can also facilitate the passage of cold air into attic space. In the simplest models, this nuance is not taken into account in any way and the units constantly ensure uncontrolled passage of air. More advanced roof penetrations also provide the ability to control the flow using a valve. Inexpensive entry-level systems provide for manual control of gate valves, but you can also find many automated models that can be controlled remotely. Moreover, devices with intelligent systems controls that operate valves based on current weather conditions.

Universal penetration

Assemblies of this type are, in essence, insulating tubes that fit seamlessly into the opening thanks to the silicone shell. However, in such a configuration additional protection should be provided around the passage part. the main task which such penetrations perform is mechanical protection pipeline or chimney from damage. In addition to the external silicone coating, the unit has a metal layer and thermal insulation. These are the optimal roof penetrations for round pipes ventilation systems, since they can adapt to any bend. What is also important is that, thanks to the stepped structure, such devices allow you to direct the channel in one direction or another as needed. Pipe orientation is also possible in traditional penetrations, but changing the direction in such cases requires a lot of effort.

Installation of penetration

The installation technique largely depends on the specific penetration option. But in most cases, installation involves three stages. First of all, a base is arranged on which the knot will stand. This can be a concrete or metal glass that will support the structure like a foundation. The second stage involves directly passing the communication pipe through the assembly, as well as performing crimping actions. The penetration ends with mechanical fixation on the roof surface. Self-tapping screws, screws and nails are used for this. The specific mounting method depends on finishing material roofs.

Accessories for roof penetrations

TO additional elements, which increase the reliability, functionality and durability of the roofing assembly, include crimping accessories, sealing and heat-insulating materials. For example, using a coating of silicone or polymer elastic fabrics, you can provide an isolated area around the installation site of the structure. Thanks to this reinforcement, the roof penetration will last longer and will not allow moisture and debris to pass into the opening. In some cases, it is advisable to use elements of mechanical reinforcement. Such solutions are used for the purpose of insurance in case of windy weather.

How to choose the right penetration?

Initially, you should focus on the dimensional parameters. The larger the ventilation opening or chimney, the thicker the walls of the unit should be. In addition, the insulating qualities of the penetration are taken into account. For example, if plastic can provide tightness, then in terms of thermal insulation it will only be effective if it is additionally reinforced. On the other hand, metal roofing penetrations for chimneys must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating. In fact, due to the risk of developing negative rusting processes, experts do not recommend using such models at all.

Conclusion

Issues of additional roof equipment should be considered at the roof design stage. In the design itself, it is possible to provide technical conditions for both the passage of the communication channel and the installation of the unit. For example, a wide roof penetration for ventilation may require additional fastening in the rafter area. But this possibility is not always allowed in ready-made structures. Also, you should not save money and refuse modern offers from manufacturers of penetrations. The same automated models will eliminate a lot of hassle during the operation of the installation. For example, latest versions Such units allow you to programmatically configure the valve control - so that it will automatically select operating modes depending on the season and temperature amplitudes. However, simple installations without valves should not be ruled out if operation is planned in a warm region.

One of the most important tasks when building a bathhouse is the correct exit and sealing of the chimney pipe. Moreover, two problems need to be solved at the same time: ensuring fire safety and insulating the pipe joint from the flow of precipitation and condensate.

First of all, before solving the problem of water passage, it is necessary to determine where the pipe exits on the roof. The height of the pipe must comply with certain standards. The height depends on where the pipe will exit on the pitched roof.

How far should the pipe be raised above the ridge of the bathhouse?

When installing a pipe, the following rule applies: “The closer to the ridge, the higher the pipe should be raised.”

Elevation of the chimney above the roof plane

• If the distance from the center of the chimney to the ridge of the roof does not exceed 1500 mm, the pipe must be raised above the ridge not less than 500 mm;
• With a distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge from 1500 to 3000 mm, the top of the pipe can be at the same level as the roof ridge;
• At a distance of more than 3 meters, the top of the pipe must be no lower than a line drawn down from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal.

Where is it better to route the pipe through the roof of the bathhouse?

Most convenient option to exit the pipe through the roof - pass it through the ridge. In this case, installation is easiest; there are rarely snow pockets on the ridge, and thanks to this arrangement, it is easy to carry out insulation work. But this method has a drawback: the rafter system should not have a ridge beam. An option with two beams that are attached in the area where the chimney passes through the roof is also suitable, but this is quite difficult to implement and is not always possible.

The most unfortunate option for the location of the chimney is in the valley (the valley is a roof element made of a kind of tray, forming internal corner between the joints of pitched roof elements). Large masses of snow usually accumulate here; during rain, water flows down from two slopes, so even with the most careful insulation, a leak will only appear a matter of time.

The most convenient option for venting the pipe through the roof is near the ridge

Based on this, the most acceptable option for pitched roofs– not far from the ridge, but below it:

• installation is quite simple,
• There is usually little snow accumulation, which means there is no need to install snow retention,
• installation is not the most difficult,
• Due to the not very high height of the pipe, it does not need to be reinforced with braces.

If it turns out that the chimney runs near the floor beams, or close to them ( minimum distance should be 13-25 cm depending on the type of pipe), comes out in the valley or close to the slope, a way out of this situation can be an additional elbow, with which you can bring the pipe to the right place.

If the roof of the bathhouse is pitched, the most reasonable solution would be to organize the pipe outlet through the roof near top point roofs.

How to remove a pipe through a roofing pie

Bathhouse roofs, as a rule, have solid insulation, which solves the problem of heat preservation. To provide good warmth and moisture-proof properties of the roofing pie, it is necessary that the membranes and films of heat and moisture protection are continuous.

By bringing the pipe through the roof, we necessarily violate their integrity. Moreover, according to fire safety standards distance from the pipe to flammable materials (which are vapor barrier and waterproofing films) must be at least 13-25 cm. How to get out of this situation? Most best option– separate the area where the pipe passes through the roof. To do this, at the required distance from the pipe on the right and left, additional rafter legs, and transverse beams are installed below and above at the same distance between these rafters. In this case, the pipe ends up in a separate box.

Roof passage unit

It often happens that “the pipe hits the rafters.” In this case, the rafter leg is cut, additional rafter legs are installed, as well as cross beams. This creates a box for the safe passage of the chimney through the roof

The space between the pipe and rafter structure fill in at the same time mineral wool. Just not fiberglass - it does not tolerate high temperatures, but basalt wool, which tolerates temperatures normally and does not lose its heat-insulating properties when exposed to moisture.

At the same time, to ensure the tightness of the roofing pie within the box in which the pipe will be located, the materials are cut into an “envelope”, the edges are wrapped up to the beams and rafters, secured with staples or nails (counter sheathing strips can be used). To prevent moisture from entering, the areas where materials adhere to wood must be additionally insulated using adhesive tapes or sealants.

The roofing pie at the passage site is cut into an “envelope” and secured to the sheathing and rafters

But there is another option. If the temperature of the pipe in the area where it passes through the roof does not exceed 50-60°C, you can simply glue the roofing cake films using the same sealants and adhesive tapes. This is possible if, for example, a tank for heating water is installed on the pipe after exiting the firebox or an additional heater is installed, etc., but it is not a sandwich that goes out onto the roof.

In any case, to drain condensate into waterproofing layer you will need to attach a drainage groove. You can buy it (usually it is made from stainless steel), or you can make it yourself from a film of sufficient thickness. The groove is secured around the pipe and its end is pulled out to the side. Thus, the condensate flows into this groove and is discharged onto the roof slope.

Passage through the roof depending on the roofing material and type of chimney

When passing through the roof, the most important thing is to drain the water flowing down the roof and the pipe itself. To protect against precipitation, protective aprons are used, the upper edge of which is placed either under the sheet located above roofing material, or under the ridge.

The apron is placed either under the sheet of roofing material located above or under the ridge

When venting the chimney through the roof, it must be fixed, but so that it remains movable relative to the roof. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion/contraction, the integrity will be compromised and leaks will certainly appear. For example, a round pipe can be given direction by metal strips or corners.

When installing, check the verticality using a plumb line - this is important so that soot does not accumulate and there is good traction.

The pipe should not be fixed rigidly when passing through the roof.

Brick pipe passage through the roof

If the chimney is brick, rectangular or square in shape, you can use the materials included with the roofing material.

When passing brick pipe through the roof you can use elements offered by roofing material manufacturers

If the roof is made of metal tiles, then the companies that produce it offer special tapes for sealing the joint with the pipe, on one side of which an adhesive layer is applied. These elastic bands are a complex compound containing aluminum and/or lead. One edge of such a tape is glued with the adhesive side to the base of the chimney, the other - to the roof sheathing. The upper edge is additionally fixed with a metal strip, which is attached to the brick with heat-resistant dowels.

To reduce the likelihood of water flowing along the wall, you can make a recess under the bar - a groove. Then the tape and bar will be in the recess. To completely eliminate water seepage, a heat-resistant sealant is applied to the joint.

They practically also seal the passage of a pipe through a roof made of soft tiles or roofing felt. But in this case, instead of an elastic tape, the tiles or roofing felt themselves are placed on the chimney.

When a pipe passes through a covered roof soft tiles its edges are placed on the chimney or apron

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe yourself. Roofers usually use sheet metal for this, but sheet aluminum works well. Four separate parts are made of metal - two side, front and back.

Apron for rectangular or square pipe easy to make yourself

The metal strips are bent so that one part fits onto the pipe, and the second is attached to the sheathing. In a brick chimney, in the upper part of the apron, an edge is made, which is inserted into a special groove and coated with sealant. To prevent water flowing down the apron from getting onto the sheathing and insulation pie, a sheet of metal of large width is placed under the front part of the apron, with curved sides along the edges. It goes under the roofing material and is called a “tie.”

If metal tiles are used on the roof, then an apron is made from a smooth sheet of the same color, the upper edge of which is tucked under the row of roofing material located above so that water flows onto the apron and does not flow under it. If the pipe comes out close to the ridge, you can either tuck it under the ridge itself, or bend it to the other side.

There is one important nuance: if the width of the brick chimney is more than 80 cm (its size perpendicular to the rafters), you need to make a slight slope gable roof, located above. It removes sediment, reducing the likelihood of leakage. But such a width of chimneys in a bathhouse is the exception rather than the rule.

Passage of a round pipe through the roof

Modern round chimneys in bathhouses are usually a sandwich pipe. Occasionally, you can still see asbestos pipes on the roofs of bathhouses, and even more rarely - a single pipe without thermal insulation.

A simple single wall, which is discharged through the roof, carries a very high probability of a fire. Therefore, using this option is extremely undesirable.

Modern round pipes are usually sandwich pipes

The video below shows an option for sealing a pipe when installed on a metal tile roof.

If metal tiles are used as a roofing material, then manufacturers often offer roofing passages. They are made from a sheet of the same color and connected to a special cap through which the pipe passes.

Pipe passage through a metal roof

It is easy and simple to seal a round pipe on the roof if you use a factory penetration. It consists of an aluminum flange to which an elastic part made of rubber or silicone is attached.

Factory-made penetrations are the most easy option sealing the junction of pipe and roof

They come in different sizes and have different angles slope You can choose it for any diameter, roof type and installation location. The penetration flange is coated with a composition similar to the composition of the corrugated part; there are grooves along the edges into which they are filled with sealant. One of the penetrations, “Master Flash,” has 11 sizes that cover diameters from 3 to 660 millimeters.

Walkthrough "Master Flash" MASTER FLASH

When installing such a penetration, part of the corrugation is cut off in accordance with the required diameter. Then it is put on the pipe. The rubber must move with force to ensure a tight fit. Since the hole is about 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe, you have to pull hard. To make less effort, you can lubricate both with soapy water.

How to install a factory penetration

After the corrugation is pulled to the desired location, the flange is given the required shape - the material is plastic and you can use a hammer, but you need to work carefully.

Using a hammer, give the flange the required shape

Then the grooves located on the inside are filled with sealant, the edges are pressed against the roofing material and secured (self-tapping screws are included in the kit). If the roofing material is not iron, self-tapping screws are not suitable. You need to use either long screws that will reach the sheathing, or dowels for the floor slabs.

Split model of penetration

There are quite a few options for factory-made penetrations, and there are detachable models. They are used when there are thickenings on the pipe or when they have to be mounted on an already assembled chimney high altitude. In this version, the kit includes clamps that connect the parts of the passage to each other. The rest of the installation is similar.

The video shows how to seal a penetration through a regular slate roof using a MASTER FLASH corner penetration.

Roof sealants

In order to seal the joints of different parts of the bathhouse pipe passage through the roof, you need to use not just a roofing sealant, but always a heat-resistant sealant. It is advisable to use a neutral silicone heat-resistant sealant.

If Master Flash is installed on a metal roof (metal tiles or metal profiles), then it is necessary to use silicone sealant which does not contain vinegar (non-acetic sealant). This is necessary so that he does not enter into chemical reaction with metal and did not destroy it.

Roofing silicone sealant retains its properties in the range from -50°C to +300°C, which is sufficient for all weather conditions and is quite suitable for sealing a chimney.

Roof sealant must be neutral and heat-resistant

But you need to remember that the surface to be treated must be clean and dry. The time for complete hardening is indicated on the packaging, usually 24 hours.

Fire safety precautions when using MASTER FLASH

MASTER FLASH made of silicone can withstand temperatures up to +300 degrees Celsius. This is quite enough to seal a sandwich pipe and, in many cases, a chimney made of asbestos-cement pipe.

The passage through the metal tile is sealed using a Master Flash penetration. Additionally used bitumen tape

As for the metal mono-pipe, in these cases it is possible to use MASTER FLASH in cases where the length of the chimney from the stove to the passage through the roof is at least 3 meters. As a rule, in this situation the temperatures will not be critical, but if not, then thermal insulation of the area that passes through the roofing pie is necessary.

Proper installation of a passage through the roof for a stove or ventilation pipe ensures not only the safety of the stove, pipe and building, but is also the key to the safety of residents. At first glance, designing a roof penetration for a chimney seems to be a simple matter. However, here it will be necessary to ensure impeccable hydro- and thermal insulation of the passage unit, select best place to bring the pipe to the roof without destroying the aesthetic design of the building.

There is an opinion that the effectiveness and safety of individual heating system depends on the design of the stove and the skill of the stove maker. Few people think that complete combustion of fuel depends more on chimney and traction forces. And only specialists know how important it is to install a high-quality passage through the roof.

When building a furnace, the main attention is paid to the temperature stability of the materials. But the fire brick of the chimney and mineral insulation Sandwich pipes are defenseless against systematic humidification.

Poor design of the pipe outlet to the roof entails serious consequences affecting the operation of the chimney. Violation of the norms for thermal insulation of pipes from flammable roofing materials, attic floors may cause:

• to fire in places where the pipe and combustible materials of the house structure come into contact;
• to education large quantity condensation in the pipe, which will lead to its rapid destruction;
• to the formation of a thick soot deposit on the inner wall of the chimney and a decrease in its working clearance;
• to a decrease in furnace draft and the formation carbon monoxide, dangerous to human life.

Poor quality waterproofing of a roof penetration assembly threatens:

• penetration of atmospheric moisture into the attic, which provokes the formation of fungus and mold;
• getting the rafters wet leads to the initiation of wood rotting processes, no matter how well it is treated with an antiseptic;
• destruction brickwork chimney;
• increased corrosion of the metal pipe;
• by getting the thermal insulation (mineral wool) wet, after which this material becomes completely unusable and loses its thermal insulation properties.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work of laying chimney pipes through floor slabs and roof structures - knowledge that will be useful to any man who decides to do the work with his own hands. The work is not easy and requires care and responsibility, because the safety of your home and its protection from fires depends on the quality.

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General rules and location selection

How to route a furnace pipe through wooden ceiling- this must be done so that there are no troubles, as in the photo. The main task preparatory stage– determining the location of the stove installation and the installation of the chimney to the street. Depending on the materials of the floor slabs and chimney pipes, work will need to be done taking into account several sizes:

Schemes for exhausting the chimney through the ceiling and roof

1st floor

The passage of the chimney through the 1st floor ceiling is equipped with a metal box filled with a layer of thermal insulation. To do this, you can use expanded clay filling and filling cavities with mineral wool. For non-residential premises The use of asbestos boards is allowed.

Installation diagram of a chimney through the ceiling with access to the roof (one-story house)

2 or more floors

When passing through slabs of the 2nd and subsequent floors, a situation may arise when the chimney cannot be installed vertically. Builders could move partitions or install a beam in the floor structure.

Therefore, in order not to take risks, when installing chimneys in multi-storey building It is better to use a home ventilation system. If you make a horizontal indentation, possible condensation will collect in this place and a thick layer of soot will be deposited on the walls. And it will be difficult to clean the chimney through turns.

Installation diagram of a stove chimney in a 2-story house

Diagram with a description of all elements

Exiting the chimney through the ceiling

The choice of design and materials depends on the type of chimney. Let us analyze the rules for organizing work for the main materials of pipelines in detail.

Round metal

The whole process is divided into several stages:

Important! When installing the pipe steel chimney we definitely take into account general direction joints It is customary to lead them inside the building “through the smoke.” The upper pipe fits onto the lower one, so smoke cannot escape even if the chimney is clogged.

Brick chimney

Here everything is much more complicated:

Scheme of the outlet of a brick chimney through the ceiling and roof of the house

Roof passage

The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out by analogy with floor slabs. The only addition is to provide a reliable layer of waterproofing to prevent water leakage at the chimney outlet.

Brick pipe passage through the roof

The bricks for the stove on the roof are ceramic, red, High Quality and brands. Here it is influenced not only by the high temperature of the gases, but also by aggressive conditions outside temperature, wind and precipitation.

After crossing the floor slab, lay the pipe to the exit point through the roof structure:

• mark and carefully cut out the cavity of the chimney passage, make a size with a margin for the insulation layer;
• We equip the passage with a metal box with a cavity for the passage of the pipe. The upper cut should be made taking into account the angle of inclination of the roof, and should be set slightly recessed inward;
• after the chimney exits to the outside, we fill the entire space with a layer of thermal insulation, everything the slightest voids seal with sealant;
• We install a layer of waterproofing under the surface of the roof structure. Then we put a steel apron or rubber coupling on top. Carefully seal the edges with sealant.

The main roof covering material is laid on top, and the pipe is forced to the required size. An “otter” is laid out at the top and a protective canopy is installed. It is not difficult to remove the chimney through the roof if you have good tool and skills in performing brick and metalwork.

Passage of a round pipe through the roof

The passage of a chimney through the roof, if the chimney is made of steel, ceramic or asbestos pipes, is carried out according to the same scheme as with a brick chimney (instructions above).

The only difference is that several options for sealing rings have been developed for waterproofing the joint. They make the work much easier; there is no need to lay an additional layer of thermal insulation when using a pass-through coupling.

If it is necessary to install a high pipe, it is secured with steel braces to special anchors embedded in the roof structure.

Stages of work in the photo:

Cutting a chimney on the roof

The cutting of the chimney on the roof is carried out taking into account several dimensions:

• the minimum distance from the roof surface to the rafters is 250-300 mm;
• if roofing felt or roofing felt is used as a surface covering, the size up to the chimney pipe is from 300 mm;
• if metal or concrete parts are used as rafters, this distance is reduced to 200 mm.

Difficulties arise when pipes pass through roof protection layers (steam, waterproofing, wooden sheathing structures and layers of insulation). We carry out the work very carefully, trying not to disturb all layers of insulation and structure.

To install the glass, we perform additional lathing, connecting 2 adjacent rafters with 2 jumpers according to the size of the sleeve.

We carefully pull up all the old layers and tuck them inward, fixing the edges with a stapler or nails with heads. We fill all gaps with a layer of thermal insulation and sealant.

Waterproofing surfaces is carried out in several stages:

• on the roof we lay a groove over the entire surface of the pipe for drainage and removal of possible leaks;
• we fix and fill all the gaps and install the outer waterproofing apron. It can be made of steel or rubber. We place its edges under the roof covering and fix it on top of the internal apron of the main structure and seal all the joints;
• Now, when water passes through small cracks, it will enter the drainage groove or be removed along the covering of the roof apron.

After laying the roof covering layer, we install the outer apron and seal it tightly to the surface of the chimney and roof.

Scheme of cutting a chimney on the roof

Installation of a brick chimney

Final works

Cutting a chimney pipe on the ceiling or roof with your own hands is finished. All that remains is to dry the oven. But before that, we check the draft in the pipe. To do this, we bring the torch to the open door of the firebox; if the flame draws inward, the draft is normal. If there is insufficient ventilation, it will be necessary to remove construction garbage from the pipes and only after that proceed to the next stage of the final.

After the surfaces have cooled, we dry the stove a second time and check all the joints and the chimney itself for leaks and that there are no leaks of gases into the room. We eliminate possible malfunctions and only after the final check can we begin to operate the furnaces.

Only by qualitatively completing the main stages of work and carefully checking the finished chimney, you will be able to protect your home from fires and inhale the fragrant smell of burning wood, and not carbon monoxide pouring out of the cracks of the chimney.

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When installing a chimney in a house or bathhouse, you not only need to secure it correctly, connect it and calculate the aerodynamics for good draft. It is extremely important to ensure competent chimney passage through the roof- so that in the future there will be no leaks in this place and the rafters will not become charred.

And here it is necessary not only to make a neat hole in the coating, but also to seal the penetration as much as possible, select sealants and at the same time preserve aesthetic appearance the entire roof. There really are a lot of subtleties and nuances here!

First of all, even at the roof construction stage, you need to design the exact location of the chimney. For this, there are certain rules that regulate the height and location of chimneys on the roof:

Today in Russia, the passage of a chimney through the roof of a house is carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003. They are a little outdated, but they are the ones that guide the supervisory services, and therefore this document is important.

Be careful also with combining the chimney and other pipes, ventilation and sewer, into one large box, which is so fashionable today. Sometimes architects want to reduce the number of unnecessary visual details on the roof.

The result is huge boxes on the roof, which are sometimes up to 6 meters long and up to 1.5 meters wide. And competently bypass them roofing elements much more complicated than the same 6-8 pipes, but separately.

When you have determined the location for the future chimney, then it’s time to prepare the rafter system for installation. And this depends on how wide the chimney itself is and what shape it is.

Metal apron and flexible tapes for rectangular chimneys

So, let's start with the traditional, although rather outdated, option - a square brick chimney.

After all, its installation, starting from special separate foundation until the joint with the roof is sealed, it is quite complicated. But at the same time, of course, the quality is still not guaranteed, because a lot depends on the selection of materials and the professionalism of the stove maker.

Design and fixation of the chimney

An ordinary brick chimney has the correct rectangular section, which is not always good for internal aerodynamics. At the same time, more modern metal and ceramic chimneys are much easier to maintain and install.

In any case, the chimney is located as close as possible to the ridge, which reduces the snow load on the pipe itself and reduces the volume of water that will flow around it. This means that the risk of leaks will be significantly less.

Usually a pipe rectangular shape placed along the direction of the slope:

In general, you need to proceed with the rafters in such a place as follows. Here's how to install the apron:

• Step 1. First of all, use the lower junction strips, which are applied to the chimney wall and mark a line at the top.
• Step 2. Using a grinder, make a groove along this line.
• Step 3. Next, remove the dust so that small particles of cement and sand do not fall on the surface of the roof waterproofing. It’s just that over time they will turn into an abrasive that can damage the roofing material.
• Step 4. If the chimney does not fit into the hole between the rafters, and you have to cut more than one rafter, then the outer rafters need to be strengthened. To do this, they are made paired.
• Step 5. If the pipe goes straight through the ridge, then ridge run They are installed on both sides of the pipe, and the rafters of the upper part are supported on the crossbars.
• Step 6. If the chimney is located away from the ridge, then place one edge of the apron over the chimney, and hide the other end under the roofing material. If the pipe is located close, then place a protective apron directly under the ridge beam and secure it with special elements, and then treat it with a moisture-resistant sealant.

Here is the layout of the rafters:

But when using additional bars in the rafter system, remember that wood and polymer materials sensitive to high temperatures. Therefore, SNiPs indicate the minimum distance between the chimney pipe and the elements of the roofing pie - at least 130 mm.

If to everything you use ceramic pipe without insulation, then this clearance should be at least 250 mm. And right where it passes through the roof, the pipe must have an indentation - a special thickening.

In addition to support bars, today many chimney manufacturers recommend using special fastening kits:

Myself the passage of the chimney through the roof also implies the use such a special fastening, which is called okapnik. It is installed directly on the chimney pipe as a decorative and functional element.

And to ensure the required draft, the height of the pipe must be at least 5 meters from the grate to the mouth. In this case, the mouth of the chimney must be reliably protected from precipitation. For this purpose, there are such special elements on sale as deflectors, an umbrella and other attachments, including metal mesh catchers.

Let's move on. If the pipe is sufficiently less than one meter wide and falls directly into the valley, then it is positioned so that one of the upper corners of the bases is as close as possible to the middle of the valley. In such a solution you will need non-standard additional elements.

If the chimney width is more than 80 cm, then a small gable roof- deflection. Moreover, it is important to make it from the same material as the roof itself, although sometimes it makes sense to give preference to metal.

Just remember that the slope itself is a problematic element, which creates two valleys on the roof at once (and valleys are always the weakest points). In such a structure it is difficult to install heat, vapor and waterproofing, as well as to ensure the required level of ventilation.

Also, a rather wide chimney usually prevents the ventilation of an insulated roof, and additional ventilation elements must be installed next to it before and after the chimney. For example, aerators or ventilation tiles.

Also, the lower in the valley there will be chimney, the more snow will accumulate behind it. Therefore, it will be necessary to install reliable snow retainers above the pipe level. But avoid placing the chimney close to skylights, otherwise combustion products will constantly be drawn into the under-roof space.

And finally, most often the fact that the chimney pipe is installed incorrectly is discovered already at the assembly stage rafter system roofs. At this stage, it is still allowed to move the chimney pipe, if possible. For example, if it is not yet made of brick, although this is more an exception to the rule than usual practice.

Sealing passages through different types of roofing

Here, for example, is how to install a chimney through a roof made of composite tiles:

These are the instructions for passing a square chimney through a soft roof:

As you can see, the chimney is protected from any leaks by an apron with special components. In addition, today for natural roofing, such as ceramic or cement-sand, very convenient flexible abutment tapes are produced. They are made from lead or aluminum, and an adhesive layer is applied to the inside.

As for metal roofing, special elements are also sold for it. Although you still have to tinker:

By the way, usually the installation instructions for the selected roofing material always contain a detailed explanation of exactly how to bypass the chimney pipe, and there is always the opportunity to purchase the necessary strips from the same manufacturer that produced the roofing covering you like.

Roof penetrations and pipes for chimneys with a round cross-section

Metal round systems always need additional fixation. Such elements must be fastened with crimp clamps. For every two meters of such a chimney, a bracket is installed that secures them to the wall, and for the tee - another support bracket. Also for fastening steel pipes use special staples.

The chimney pipe passage itself depends on its cross-section and shape, the slope of the roof, as well as the type of roofing material used:

Here is a very detailed video of the chimney outlet with round on the roof:

Ready-made soft penetrations for any structures

It is a little more difficult to get around a round pipe than a square one. But today roofing materials are produced for this purpose. penetration for chimneys in the form universal cup or master flush:

What is such a passage? This is a special nozzle for the chimney in the form of an elastic material made of silicone or EPDM rubber. Both options tolerate temperatures from -74 to +260°C. The penetration itself is based on steel sheet, well fixed to the roof.

Pull this collar on round pipe using a soap solution, and then coat it under the flange with roofing sealant. This penetration is good because it can take any shape, and therefore it does not matter at what angle of the slope it is mounted. The whole process turns out to be much faster and more accurate than in the case of a brick chimney.

So, this elastic apron must be applied directly to the passage and pressed metal sheet in the form of a circle or rectangle (make holes in it for self-tapping screws in advance).

Here's what proper installation of a chimney through a roof looks like in practice:

Metal pipes for rigid fixation

In the case of installing chimneys on a roof without a relief (not always), instead of flexible passage products, a metal passage pipe is used. It is too finished goods, painted or galvanized steel:

Such pipes are made mainly from alloy steel standard sizes and at standard roof slope angles.

Here the instructions are slightly different:

• Step 1. Make a suitable size hole in the roof. To do this, use a marker and suitable tool– grinder, jigsaw or scissors.
• Step 2. Carefully remove the insulation from the hole and saw off the grille that will get in the way.
• Step 3. Secure with inside roofing sheet of fire-retardant material so that there is a margin of 15 cm on each side in a circle.
• Step 4. Route the chimney and secure it with a clamp.
• Step 5. Put on the passage element and secure it to the roof surface with screws and special sealant.
• Step 6. Continue increasing the pipe segments to the desired height - until the pipe itself is at least a meter higher than the ridge.

If you want to insulate the entire structure where the pipe passes, then use only a non-flammable heat insulator, such as stone wool. You can simply stuff it between wooden elements structures and the chimney itself. It is needed to prevent condensation from occurring in this area.

Round chimney pipes also tend to complicate the whole process because they have bends in their path and sometimes they even have to be passed through the walls, and only then through the roof:

Installation of a passage box for dissimilar materials

There is also the practice of running a pipe through the roof using a passage box. This is beneficial when the roof itself is made of different types of materials, which have different resistance to fire.

In this case, a box is made required sizes from fire resistant material, pass a pipe through it so that at least 15 cm remains to the walls and fill the space with expanded clay.

Here is an example of organizing such a box:

When installing a chimney on the roof, did you encounter any difficulties?