Ecology of consumption. Estate: Black, white and red currants: diseases and treatment, control and symptoms of diseases. In order for the currant bushes in your garden to please you for a long time bountiful harvests, it is very important to notice and diagnose the disease in time

Why do currant leaves turn yellow? Why are there red spots on currant leaves? Is there an effective protection of currants from powdery mildew? Are currant varieties resistant to diseases? The Gardener and Gardener will try to give comprehensive answers to these and other questions.

Currants: diseases and treatment

Red currant diseases and black currant diseases mostly manifest themselves in the same way and are treated in the same way. The same applies to white currants. The only thing is that one of the three species is more susceptible to certain diseases, which will definitely be noted in the description of the disease. Currant diseases appear in spring and early summer and can be viral or fungal.

Viral diseases of currants:

Black currant plumpness

Striped currant mosaic

Fungal diseases of currants:

Anthracnose

Glass rust

Columnar rust

White spot (septoria)

Powdery mildew

Gray rot

Nectria drying

Black currant plumpness

Otherwise, this disease that causes infertility is called reversion. And this is the worst viral disease of all. In general, all types of currants are susceptible to this disease, but most often for some reason you can see it on black ones. If you have blackcurrant terry, treatment will not help. None. At all.

Terry is determined only during flowering by the shape and color of the leaves and petals.

Leaves:

Three blades on a leaf instead of five,

The shape is elongated, the tips are pointed,

The denticles along the edge of the leaf are larger and less frequent,

The veins on the leaf are coarser and there are fewer of them,

The leaf blade is thicker,

Leaf color is darker

There is no smell of currants.

Inflorescences:

The petals are smaller, elongated, narrow,

The color of the petals is purple, dirty pink or even green,

The inflorescences dry out without producing berries,

The flowering of a diseased bush is delayed by a week.

Prevention and treatment of currant terry

1. Healthy planting material. There are no varieties resistant to this viral disease. Therefore, you need to be especially careful when choosing new cuttings. Planting material should be taken only from those bushes that have not had even a hint of terry growth for the last three years.

2. Thorough inspection. It is necessary to carefully inspect the bushes every year during the flowering period, because... Often the first symptoms can be missed. It happens that terry infestation lasts for years. But this is precisely what is dangerous. After all, this disease with the juice of diseased currants is transferred by insects (bud mites and aphids) to healthy bushes. The longer you take to get rid of an infected plant, the higher the likelihood of destroying all the others.

3. Vector control. In order to prevent the spread of terry, if it does appear in your garden, it is worth protecting the plants from currant bud mites and aphids.

4. Increased sustainability. To make the bushes less susceptible to terry, you can increase the amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Foliar feeding with a solution of manganese, boron, and molybdenum is also recommended. Increased use of fertilizers with nitrogen, on the contrary, will increase the risk of terry disease in currants.

5. Fire. For a bush where blackcurrant terry is noticed, there can be only one treatment - uprooting. Moreover, it is necessary to remove the entire bush, even if only one shoot is diseased. You won’t get by with half measures in the form of one or two cut branches. Immediately burn the uprooted bush to the ground so that even a hint of the virus does not leak out. During the next five-year period, currants cannot be returned to this place.

Blackcurrant striped mosaic

A viral disease that has no cure. It is spread by sucking insects (aphids, mites), transferring it with saliva from diseased plants to healthy ones. The reason may also be the grafting of a diseased cutting on healthy bush. Well, pruning diseased and healthy bushes in a row without intermediate disinfection of the instrument is also a very real reason.

The disease can be identified by the appearance on the leaves in early June of a pattern around the large veins of the leaf. The color of the stripes is bright yellow.

Control and prevention of vein mosaic

1. Healthy planting material. There are no resistant varieties in nature. Therefore, carefully select the bushes from which you are going to receive new cuttings. They must be healthy.

2. Thorough inspection. Inspect the bushes annually at the beginning of summer for symptoms of the disease.

3. Vector control. To prevent striped mosaic, treat currants with products against sucking pests.

4. Fire. Like any viral disease, it cannot be cured. This means only drastic measures: uprooting the entire bush and then burning it.

5. Quarantine. Be careful not to plant currants on a sore spot for at least five years.

Currant anthracnose

In common parlance this disease is called “fly-eater”. Another fairly common fungal disease of currants. The fungus overwinters on the remains of leaves under the bush and is spread by insects and water. In dry and hot summers, the development of the disease is unlikely.

Anthracnose is easily detected. Small brownish-red dots on currant leaves are the first stage. The further you go, the more the brown spots on the currant leaves “spread” to the sides and eventually the entire leaf turns brown, after which it dries out and falls off ahead of time. For red currants, anthracnose is even more dangerous: leaves can fall off with just a few spots.

The first red spots on currant leaves appear on the lower branches, located closer to the wintering site of the fungus. Further, the disease can spread along leaf petioles, stalks and young shoots. Anthracnose will reach its apogee of development at the end of July - August.

Currant anthracnose: treatment and prevention

1. Cleansing. All fallen leaves are collected and burned. The soil under the bushes must be dug up in time, upper layer sealed up to 10 cm. Weeds must also be destroyed.

2. Spraying. When spraying, you need to remember to treat the underside of the leaves.

If you have just noticed currant anthracnose, treatment should be carried out immediately. Immediately upon detection, spray the bush with “Fitosporin”, and at the end of August repeat the procedure.

In early spring or late autumn, after the leaves have completely fallen, spray the bushes themselves and the soil under them with a 3% solution of 60% nitrafen at the rate of 30-40 kg/ha.

3. Choice of variety. It is worth planting varieties that are less susceptible to anthracnose: Belorusskaya sweet, Varshevicha, Victoria, Golubka, Dutch red, Gonduin red, Reibey Castle, Zoya, Jonker van Tete, Koksa, Luchezarnaya, Melodiya, Minay Shmyrev, Nochka, Primorsky Champion, Firstborn , Ural white, Yuterbogskaya.

Currant glass rust

Glass rust is caused by a fungus and is quite common. Many people have seen orange-red bubbles on currant leaves more than once. The most susceptible to this disease are bushes next to which any type of sedge grows. It is on this that the fungal spores overwinter, and in the spring they “migrate” to the currants with the wind. The development of the disease will be particularly strong at high humidity in the place where the bush grows (rainy spring, lowland). The main danger is that leaves and berries turn yellow and fall off.

Goblet rust on currant leaves is determined by the appearance of brightly colored warts (pads). orange color. In some cases, swellings may appear on inflorescences and ovaries. Rust spores develop on the underside of leaves, mature and fly away, so that by mid-summer the signs of the disease may disappear.

Currant cup rust: treatment and prevention

1. Right place. It is best to plant currants on a hill, away from wetlands.

2. Cleansing. Destroy any sedge growing nearby or mow it in a timely manner. If you notice orange-red swellings on currant leaves, be sure to rake and burn all fallen leaves in the fall.

3. Spraying. When spraying Special attention Apply to the underside of the leaves.

During the blooming of leaves, the beginning of flowering and immediately after flowering (i.e. 3 times), you can spray the bushes with 1% beard liquid.

Before flowering, after flowering, 12 days later and after picking berries (i.e. 4 times), you can spray a 0.4% suspension of 80% cuprosan and 1% colloidal sulfur at a rate of 3- 4 kg/ha.

4. Choice of variety. The following currant varieties are least susceptible to the development of this disease: Versailles white, Victoria red, Goliath, Dutch red, Gonduin, Zoya, Cantata, Neapolitanskaya, Nina, Minskaya, Pulkovskaya, Suite Kievskaya, Chereshneva, Faya fertile.

Currant columnar rust

Currant columnar rust is another fungal disease. Unlike glass rust, it is transferred not from sedge, but from pine trees and other coniferous trees. Black currants are most susceptible to the disease.

The disease can be identified by small yellow spots on the leaves that appear during berry picking. Turning the sheet over, you can see orange bubbles on the bottom side. As the disease progresses, spore columns appear in the areas of swelling, which change their color from orange to brown. Outwardly, they resemble stubble.

The danger of an advanced disease is the premature fall of leaves, deterioration of shoot growth and loss of winter hardiness of the bush. As a result, next year's harvest will be significantly smaller.

Columnar rust on currants: control and prevention measures

1. Right place. It is best to plant currants away from pines and other conifers.

2. Cleansing. If you notice yellow spots on currant leaves, then in the fall you should collect and burn the fallen leaves, or embed them in the soil.

3. Spraying.

Before the leaves appear, immediately after flowering and collecting the berries (i.e. 3 times), treat the affected bushes with 1% beard liquid.

If you just notice how the leaves on the currant are turning yellow, immediately treat the bush with Fitosporin.

4. Choice of variety. The varieties least susceptible to columnar rust disease are: English white, Dutch red, Houghton Castle, Reibey Castle, Meat Red, Feya fertile.

Powdery mildew on currants

Powdery mildew on currants is a fungal disease that has two types:

European manifests itself as white coating on currants in the form of a cobweb and is quite rare. Red currants are more susceptible to the disease.

Spheroteca or American powdery mildew is visible as a loose white coating on currant leaves, which darkens over time and looks like felt.

Fungal spores overwinter on the bushes themselves and on fallen leaves. Young leaves are the first to become infected during flowering. Then the disease “goes” further, to older leaves. They curl into a tube, darken and eventually fall off. Next, a white coating may appear on the currant berries and they will also dry out and fall off.

Treatment and protection of currants from powdery mildew

1. Cleansing. In early spring, you need to cut off the ends of infected branches (twisted and black), capturing a couple of buds of a healthy shoot. Collect and burn fallen leaves; spores may remain on them.

2. Pinching. At the beginning of the ripening of the berries, you can pinch the tips of the branches (growth buds) to prevent powdery mildew from developing on them.

3. Treatment of currants against powdery mildew.

The first spraying in the spring is on young leaves, the second - a couple of weeks later on the formed ovaries. For processing you can use: preparations “Topaz” or “Vectra”; 0.1% solution copper sulfate or beard liquid at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 5 - 7 liters of water.

Spraying and repeating after three days (i.e. 2 times) with a solution of 5% iodine at the rate of 10 ml per 10 liters of water. This method is good because the berries can be consumed immediately.

Treatment of currants against powdery mildew can also be carried out with “Fitosporin” once a month, the first time in mid-May. This is not a chemical preparation, which means it is not absorbed by berries.

To destroy fungal infection, you can spray the trunk circle and currant bushes with iron sulfate dissolved in proportions of 300 g per 10 liters of water.

4. Choice of variety. The most resistant to powdery mildew: Asora, Binar, Dutch Red, Detvan, Zarya Polarya, Ilyinka, Temptation, Katyusha, Red Kislitsy, Kipiama, Red Cross, Kupalinka, Radiant, Natalie, Beloved, Nochka, Lights of the Urals, Rowada, Rolan, Market London, Stephane No. 9, Titania, Ural beauty, Ural white, Fertile Fairy, Tsiralt, Ceres.

White spot (septoria) of currant

White spot is a fungal disease that black currants are most susceptible to. The spread of the disease comes from diseased fallen leaves.

Septoria is detected in early summer. The first to appear are brown spots on currant leaves; they can be angular or round shape. Over time, the spots turn white, leaving only a narrow brown strip along the contour. So in July you will no longer see brown, but light spots on the currant leaves.

Control and prevention of white spotting

1. Fertilizer. To increase the resistance of currants to disease, in addition to mineral supplements, you need to add microelements. It can be manganese sulfate, copper, boron or zinc.

2. Choice of variety. Give preference to currant varieties: White Versailles, Houghton Castle, Star of the North, Early Favorskaya, Wonderful, Chulkovekaya, Shchedraya.

3. Other control measures are similar to those used for anthracnose.

Nectria drying of currant shoots and branches

A fungal disease to which white and red currants are more susceptible. As the name implies, the damage caused by this disease is shrunken and dead branches and shoots. The longer you wait to treat the drying out, the less the bush will eventually remain. This means that harvests will be lower and lower every year.

The disease can be identified by the appearance of small orange dots on the branches, which may not be noticed. Then they grow and become reddish-brown tubercles, which are quite difficult to miss. Over time, the spores mature and change color to black.

Treatment and prevention of drying out

1. Cleansing. Diseased branches and shoots must be pruned and burned. You don't want a repeat next year, do you? Be sure to disinfect the cut areas with 1% Bordeaux mixture, and then cover them with garden varnish.

2. Agricultural technology. Follow the rules for caring for currants (destruction of weeds, covering up fallen leaves, fertilizing, etc.). These simple measures will minimize the spread of the fungus and increase the bush's resistance to the disease. Your currants will not get sick, which means you won’t have to treat them.

Gray rot

A fungal disease that affects many crops. Spread by wind and rain from mummified fruits and infected branches.

On currants it appears as brown spots on the leaves. The wood suffers mainly in white currants, becoming covered with lumps of mold.

How to treat and fight gray mold

1. Agricultural technology. Follow the rules for caring for currants (destruction of weeds, water regime, fertilizing, etc.)

2. Cleansing. Leaves, shoots and fruits affected by gray rot must be removed from the bush and destroyed.

General prevention of currant diseases

1. In late autumn, you can spray all the bushes with a highly concentrated urea solution, at the rate of 700 g per 10 liters of water. They also need to treat the soil under the currants. This spraying will kill pests that have settled for the winter in the fallen leaves; overwintering spores of fungal diseases will also not survive. In early spring (preferably in April), be sure to carry out another such spraying.

2. Good results are obtained by treating currants against diseases in the spring with the preparation "Zircon", which increases the resistance of currants to various diseases. Repeated spraying will need to be planned for the second half of August.

Now you will have healthy currants; we have considered diseases and their treatment in full. published

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There is hardly a garden that does not have currants. Black, red, white, pink, golden - any of them is tasty and healthy and, with proper care, will reward you with a harvest. But provided that the bushes are healthy. To achieve this, you need to have a good knowledge of currant diseases and their treatment.

Currants have a lot of diseases. Most of them are fungal in nature. Most often they appear in damp summers. Pests that transmit them, as well as weeds, also contribute significantly to the spread of diseases. On them, pathogens can persist for a long time. If diseases are not treated and currants are not treated for pests, they can not only leave the gardener without a harvest, but also lead to the death of the plant.

Powdery mildew

The spore-bearing marsupial fungus, which is the causative agent of the disease, was brought to us from America more than 100 years ago, which is why the disease is sometimes called American powdery mildew. The pathogen overwinters in fallen leaves and favorable conditions begins to multiply quickly. Powdery mildew is a disease of black currants; white and red currants suffer from it much less frequently.

How does the fungus manifest itself?

• plaque on shoots and leaves white with a gray tint;
• due to damage to the growth point, the development of shoots stops, they become deformed and then dry out;
• formed berries do not ripen, but become covered with a coating; those that are not formed simply fall off.

How to deal with powdery mildew on currants:

• this fungus is easily destroyed by fungicides, of which there are many on sale, you just need to strictly follow the instructions;
• You can also use folk remedies: infusion of ash in a ratio of 1:10, leave for several days, filter and spray until the manifestations of the disease disappear;
• Mullein infusion helps well: first dilute it with water 3 times, after three days of infusion, dilute it again in the same proportion, spray until the disease goes away.

Anthracnose

This is mainly a red currant disease. It is fungal in nature. The first signs appear already during flowering. Proper treatment carried out at this time will help the plant cope with the disease. But if time is lost, then in the second half of summer the red currant bushes will be left practically without leaves, which will fall off, infected with the fungus. On black currants - they will be preserved, but will still dry out.

How does anthracnose manifest itself on currants:

• the appearance of red or brown spots that gradually occupy most of the leaf;
• premature leaf fall in red currants and drying of leaves in black currants.

Similar signs appear on the leaves when currants are infected with gall aphids. To distinguish one from the other, just look at the underside of the sheet. The pest is clearly visible to the naked eye.

What do we have to do:

• in the spring, before flowering, treat the bushes with Topsin-M, adding to it an immunostimulant: Epin, Immunocytophyte;
• during ripening of berries it is possible to treat with biological products: Fitosporin or Gamair;
• when the crop has already been harvested, treat it with any approved fungicide.

White spot

Otherwise, the disease is called septoria. Black currants are more affected. The disease is fungal in nature and is caused by the Septoria fungus. An outbreak of the disease can be expected if the winter was warm and with little snow, and the summer was humid and cool.

Septoria blight is difficult to confuse with other diseases: spots on the leaves, initially brown, quickly acquire a light center, in which, upon careful examination, tiny black dots are visible - pycnidia of the fungus. White spot very quickly becomes aggressive and can destroy not only the diseased bush, but also neighboring plants.

How to fight:

• the first thing to do is collect all the infected leaves and shoots and burn them;
• treat bushes, both diseased and neighboring ones, with copper-containing preparations: Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, Khom or Oksikhom;
• You can do this preventively: before the leaves appear, immediately after they appear, and after another 21-30 days.

When white spotting appears, it is necessary to spray not only the bushes, but also the soil under them.

Columnar and goblet rust

Columnar rust disease is caused by fungi that often attack cedar and Weymouth pine. From them, rust spores spread throughout the surrounding area, affecting currants, usually black ones. Warm and humid weather promotes the spread of the disease. It usually appears in July. Only yellow spots are visible on the upper part of the leaves; the mushroom itself is located on the inside, first in the form of pads, and then orange columns, then they become like hairs. When the infestation is significant, the leaf appears hairy.

Control measures:

• remove and burn all affected parts of the plant;
• treat the bushes with copper-containing fungicides.

Goblet rust is a fungal disease that most often targets red currant bushes. The rust fungus, which causes the disease, has an intermediate host - sedge, and overwinters on it. Infection of berry bushes occurs in the spring, when spores emerging from the basidia are spread throughout the area. Infection occurs especially quickly in warm and rainy weather. In the summer, the sedge becomes infected, on which the fungus overwinters.

What does glass rust look like?

1. Brightly colored spots with black dots are clearly visible on the upper part of the leaf.
2. On the inside there are orange cup-shaped pads with spores on the top.

How to overcome the disease?

1. Destroy all diseased leaves and branches.
2. Spray the bushes with copper-containing or other fungicides.

Gray rot

Another disease caused by fungus-like organisms that overwinter on plant residues. You can notice it after the first wave of bush growth stops at the end of June. Newly grown shoots begin to wither, starting from the top. In humid weather, you can also see a mushroom covering the shoots with a gray coating. The leaves along the edges are covered with light brown spots, which crack, and a gray coating also appears on them.

To prevent the disease from appearing, treatment is carried out before flowering and when it ends. It is also necessary to treat the bushes even when the harvest is harvested. For this, an infusion of ash with water in a ratio of 3:10, a solution of soda ash with soap, 50 g of both per 10 liters of water, are suitable.

Drying of currant shoots and branches

It is also caused by a fungus. Its spores ripen in red-brown tubercles located at the bottom of the shoots. Nectrum drying of currants is treated by removing damaged shoots to healthy tissue. To prevent the sections from drying out, they are treated with garden varnish; it is good to disinfect them with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%.

Striped mosaic

Caused by viruses that are transmitted by sucking insect pests: spider mites, aphids. The disease can be introduced by grafting a diseased cutting onto a healthy plant. If you carry out pruning without disinfecting the tool after each bush, there is also a risk of infection.

The striped mosaic appears in early summer with the appearance of a pattern at the central vein of the leaf in the form of bright yellow stripes and spots.

There is no cure for this disease. It is necessary to take drastic measures and completely uproot the bush. You cannot plant currants in this place; you will have to wait at least 5 years.

Terry

A dangerous disease caused by a virus. The shape of the leaf changes, it becomes three-lobed, rougher to the touch, its color darkens, and the smell disappears. Flowers also undergo changes: the petals become narrow and elongated, their color changes to purple or green, and berries do not set in place of the flowers. Flowering itself occurs a week later.

The disease cannot be treated; you need to deal with the bush in the same way as in the previous case.

Disease Prevention

All fungal diseases spread in conditions of high humidity. It must be combated by timely pruning, leaving 15 to 20 shoots. In a well-ventilated bush, the humidity is much less.

Other preventative measures include:

• loosening to a depth of about 5 cm and regular weeding; there should be no weeds under the bushes;
• cleaning in the fall from under the bushes all plant debris, including fallen leaves;
• preventive treatments against diseases and pests, including spring treatment of bushes before buds open hot water with a temperature of about 65 degrees; the roots of the bushes are covered with plywood or cardboard;
• choosing only healthy planting material and disease-resistant varieties;
• disinfection of tools when pruning;
• strengthening currant immunity with the help of immunostimulants;
• correct and timely care.

Treatment of currants in autumn against pests

After harvesting, there are no longer such restrictions on the choice of various drugs that are used to treat bushes against diseases and pests. Therefore, autumn is the best time to destroy them. Treatment of currants against pests begins after leaf fall. It should be preceded by pruning and thinning of the bush. Since the most better fruiting goes on young 1-3 year old shoots, all branches older than 5 years are cut out, as well as dry and damaged ones, as well as those growing inside the bush. All trimmings and fallen leaves should be removed from the area or burned. The soil under the currants is dug up to a shallow depth, since it root system superficial. Now we proceed directly to processing.

Fungicides are effective against diseases:

• phytosporin;
• copper-containing preparations;
• colloidal sulfur;
• infusions and decoctions onion peel, celandine, wormwood, garlic, calendula.

Help you deal with pests:

• 0.2% Karbofos;
• Fitoverm.

It must be remembered that not only the plants themselves are sprayed, but also the soil around them - some pests and pathogens overwinter in it. For processing, choose dry and windless weather. After 2 weeks it must be repeated.

• Currants begin their growing season early, so pruning of plants, if not done in the fall, is carried out already in early April before the start of sap flow.
• As soon as the soil dries out a little, loosen the soil under the bushes, combining loosening with fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer. For 1 sq. m add 15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea.
• The soil is mulched with any organic matter in a layer of 6-8 cm.
• Before and after flowering, you can carry out treatment against pests and diseases, if necessary.

Summer

• Currants need to be watered regularly in the summer; they love moisture. Watering is especially important at the time of formation and filling of berries. Sprinkling watering for bushes is undesirable, so as not to provoke an outbreak of fungal diseases.
• If the ground under the bushes is not mulched, regular loosening will be required, especially after watering.
• As soon as the harvest is harvested, feed the currants with complete mineral fertilizer - up to 150 g per bush.
• Plants respond well to foliar feeding with a urea solution using the sprinkling method at the rate of a bucket of water with three matchboxes of urea dissolved in it for each bush.
• At the end of July, null shoots, that is, newly grown shoots, are pinched so that they branch better.

Autumn

This is the time to prepare plants for winter. To do this, feed each bush with one hundred grams of superphosphate and thirty grams of potassium sulfate, not forgetting about regular watering. If pests or diseases were noticed on the plant in the summer, autumn is the best time to treat them. In the fall, formative pruning of bushes is also carried out.

Just like any other berry bushes, all subspecies of currants are exposed to various infections. Currant diseases are quite numerous and for successful treatment it is necessary to have a good knowledge of the signs of each and methods of treatment.

Fungal infections and protection

Currant diseases can be classified according to the method of infection:

• fungal;
• viral.

Fungal infections are the most common in flora. Contributes to diseases high humidity and warmth, which is usually observed in late summer. A description of the most common infections, as well as methods of protection, are given below.

Powdery mildew

It is found on currant leaves and the tops of new branches in early summer as a gray-white coating that can be washed off and wiped off. Gradually it turns brown and is no longer washed off. Strong humidity and temperatures of +30 help the disease spread.

Black currant leaves, twigs and berries become infected. The berries are spoiled by fungus, tasteless and not suitable for food.

As a result, the infected plant stops growing and gradually withers. The fungus waits out the winter in a heap of fallen leaves.

During the initial stage of the disease, you can get rid of it by pruning and destroying infected branches, treating currant bushes with alkaline solutions:

• ash;
• soap;
• soap and soda;
• iodine;
• from whole milk.

If the fungus develops massively, the bushes are treated by spraying four times with fungicides such as Fitosporin, Topaz, Strobi, Hom:

• before flowering;
• after flowering;
• followed by berry picking;
• 2 weeks after the third treatment.

Important! Treatment of all fungal diseases is long-term; spraying is carried out throughout the entire growing season and preventive treatment is carried out at the beginning of the next season.

Alternaria or black leaf spot

It is very noticeable in the summer, when the leaves of the black currant are covered with small grayish-black spots. When the disease occurs, the fungus affects leaves, cuttings, stalks, green shoots, and berries. Closer to autumn, currants become overgrown with a dense, soft brown-olive bloom, and the leaves fly off.

The fungi that cause Alternaria blight do not kill red or black currants. But the disease provokes oppression of plants, poor ripening of branches and their freezing in winter.

The currant bush will not bring a full harvest either. Treatment consists of spraying Nitrofen with a sprayer at the beginning and end of the season on bare branches.

In addition, before flowering and after harvesting the fruits, 1% Bordeaux mixture, Fitosporin, Previkur, Acrobat, Ridomil are sprayed. A mandatory procedure will be the removal and incineration of all litter. It is imperative to loosen the soil under the currants. In new plantings it is better to use varieties with increased resistance.

Septoria or white spot

It is detected when small particles appear on the leaves. walnut color specks. Subsequently, they become whitish with a brown edge.

Cercospora or brown spot

Characterized by the appearance of chestnut spots with a light stripe along the edge. Little by little, the spots grow, forming a thick brownish layer on the leaf plate.

Anthractosis

Diagnosed when red-brown spots grow in the middle of the season. Small spots grow in diameter and completely cover the leaf. Red currant anthractic disease is available to a greater extent than black or white.

Phyllostictosis spot

Found on the outside of the leaves. Small red spots appear, which later lighten and change color to dirty brown. The affected leaf tissue often falls out, forming holes.

Ascochyta blight of black and red currants

Expressed in the appearance brown spots broken shape. Later they lighten, crack and fall out, leaving holes on the sheet.

Spot diseases lead to the same results:

• damage to leaves and their premature fall;
• due to lack of nutrition, young shoots do not ripen and dry out or freeze;
• a weakened bush does not winter well;
• part of the harvest is lost;
• The berries are often also damaged by the fungus and turn out tasteless.

The destruction of fungal spotting is achieved by repeated fungicides:

1. Before the buds open, spray with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride, Nitroferon.
2. After flowering and two weeks after harvesting the fruits, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Captan, Homitsin, Cuprozan, Phthalan, colloidal sulfur.
3. At the end of leaf fall, the plants are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

Rust in full form is discovered in the middle of the season. Currant disease begins with the appearance of voluminous lesions on the leaves. yellow spots(goblet) or elongated tumors (columnar) from the outer edge. Brown growths with fungal spores appear on the back edge.

Over time, rust covers the entire leaf, causing it to wither prematurely. The disease slows down the growth of branches, makes feeding difficult and weakens the plant.

Glass rust

It is detected during flowering and spoils the flowers and ovaries. Columnar rust appears by early August.

The peculiarity of this mushroom is the fact that its development requires two plants: currants and sedge or pine.

Treatment consists of spraying 5-6 irrigations throughout the season with any fungicide and pruning the affected branches. For treatment, the drugs Fitosporin, Topaz, Horus, Skor, Abiga Peak, Rayok, Gamair, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate are used.

Sooty fungus or leaf blackness

Currant bush disease is noted as the growth of a black layer similar to soot. The layer is easily erased and must be washed off, as it interferes with photosynthesis and nutrition. Spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is carried out before flowering and after it to eradicate the fungus.

Drying branches or tubercular disease

This disease can be identified by its appearance on the bark and inside sheet of small red dots. Over time, they grow, turn red, and become reddish-brown. After the spores mature, the dots turn black and the infected branches dry out. People get sick with this infection more often.

If currants have an infection, then the infection will easily spread to juniper, apple, and apricot.

We treat the bush by cutting out damaged branches and treating the sections with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is recommended to spray the plant with this solution at least 4 times per season.

Verticillium wilt

Causes damage to the plant's vascular system. The mycelium grows in the root vessels, they become impassable, become clogged and rot. Nutrition and moisture from the roots do not reach the above-ground part.

The leaves turn yellow, the berries dry out, and the bush dies. The disease cannot be treated; the plant must be destroyed.

Moniliosis or fruit rot of berries

Easily identified by appearance infected fruits. They lighten and become flabby, and light gray mold appears on the skin. Later, the berries become mummified and are partially preserved on the branch and partially crumbled. Rotten berries are collected because they harbor fungal spores.

Early spring spraying with copper sulfate is necessary. You also need to treat the bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits.

Gray rot of berries

It differs from moniliosis in that rotten berries do not change their color. Infected berries are covered with a layer of smoky-gray mold and gradually crumble.

To eliminate the disease from currants, you need to collect and remove infected berries and thin out the bush for better planting ventilation.

Nectria-induced drying of shoots is characterized by the appearance of orange dots on the bark of shoots. They slowly grow and change into black tubercles with fungal spores. By this time the shoots are drying out. During treatment, the infected parts of the bush are cut out, the sections are disinfected with solutions of copper-containing preparations.

Viral infections and treatment

Dangerous viral diseases are rare. But if they get into the garden, then you must immediately remove the plant along with the roots and disinfect the soil strong solution potassium permanganate. How to treat viral diseases is still not known.

This infection usually spreads through infected seedlings. Sometimes their appearance is associated with insects: gall aphids, bud mites.

Viral diseases, as well as those of black currant and white currant, occur occasionally.

Terry

This is a viral, microplasma disease that leads to infertility. The inflorescences change appearance and color, becoming abnormal in appearance and purple in color. The berries are not formed at all. Even the appearance of currant leaves changes.

If the bush is sick with reversion, then instead of five-lobed leaves, three-lobed ones with a serrated “nettle” edge grow. The characteristic currant smell disappears.

The infection spreads through infected planting material and with the help of a bud mite. It mainly affects black currants. Be sure to destroy the kidney mite using fungicides.

To do this, spray with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur when the buds open. The treatment is repeated 2–4 times every 2 weeks. The infected plant is uprooted and burned.

Striped or veined mosaic

Another viral disease, with it a yellow stripe forms along the main veins of the leaf. Over time, yellowness covers the entire leaf, causing it to dry out. There is no treatment other than uprooting the currants.

cure viral infection impossible by any means. Therefore, when they are detected, the diseased plant is uprooted and burned.

Important! in place of uprooted ones it is possible no earlier than after 5 years.

Green mottling of leaves

An accurate description of this disease can help the gardener identify this unpleasant disease. Pale green small dots or bulges appear on the leaves, a mosaic pattern. It is impossible not to notice her. Later, liquid pale green stripes form along the main veins of the leaf.

In the red subspecies, the virus provokes a distinct yellowing in the center of the leaf and deformation. Such bushes are immediately discarded.

Diseases that affect black currants, like diseases of red and white currants, are quite numerous. To prevent them, disease prevention is very important.

Prevention

Disease prevention is achieved primarily by selecting and purchasing seedlings of varieties that are resistant to major fungal and viral diseases.

In addition, the seedlings themselves must be guaranteed to be healthy. When purchasing planting material, you must make sure that you have a quarantine certificate, since many serious diseases came to our country from abroad.

Bushes should be planted at a sufficient distance so as not to cause thickening of the planting.

Removing leaves and branches damaged by infection, timely burning and disinfecting cuttings, digging up the soil in spring and autumn, removing weeds, and sanitary pruning of branches helps stop the spread of infections.

The main remedy for any disease remains the use of fungicides of natural or industrial origin.

For prevention, you do not need to use them 5-6 times per season, as when fighting diseases. It is enough to spray the bush 2 times: before buds open and before flowering.

Good results in destroying fungal spores are obtained by pouring boiling water over the bush until the buds swell.

Conclusion

Before treating currants, you need to determine what the currant is sick with. Infections are very diverse, spread quickly, are resistant to fungicides, and are not afraid of frost. Currants can be freed from diseases only through persistent healing over several seasons. If you do not resort to treatment, you may not see the harvest at all.

IN last years Quite a lot of currant varieties have appeared that are quite resistant to certain diseases. But, if resistance to certain diseases increases, then at the same time there is an increase in the susceptibility of bushes to other pathogens. There are no varieties yet that are absolutely resistant to most of the most common diseases.

Black currant plumpness

Description of the disease. Incurable viral disease of currants. Most often it affects black currants. White and red are more resistant, although some varieties (especially older ones) can be affected by the virus. The source of infection is the bush itself, infected planting material, and garden tools that were not treated before pruning. The virus overwinters in the conducting tissues of the bush. Its carriers are bud mites, aphids, gall midges, berry bugs, spider mites and other pests. The virus is not transmitted through soil or water. The disease is extremely dangerous, it causes degradation of varietal qualities and leads to degeneration of currants. Therefore, its second name is currant reversion.

Signs of defeat. A sign by which it can be determined that a bush is infected even before the full picture of the disease appears is the loss of the typical currant smell of the buds, leaves and berries.

External signs of the disease appear in the spring when the leaves bloom and currants bloom. The leaf opening is delayed, they become three-lobed instead of 5-lobed, with large, sparse teeth along the edges. The emerging young leaves are small, dark green, with thickened veins; they do not develop further.

A characteristic sign of doubleness, by which the disease is determined, is the structure of the flowers. Typically, black currant petals are fused, round, and white. Diseased bushes have separate-petalled flowers that become purple in color. Petals, stamens, and pistil are deformed, and scales are formed instead, resembling tentacles extended forward. Flower brushes become longer and also acquire a dirty pink or purple. Berries from such flowers either do not set at all, or a small number of small, ugly fruits appear. Bushes that are sick with double bloom bloom late.

In the photo there is a currant bush that is sick with terry disease.

On diseased plants, a lot of thin and short shoots appear that do not have a currant smell.

The first signs begin to appear 1-2 years after infection. Before this, the bushes have a normal appearance, although the currant smell becomes weak, and the yield is somewhat less than that characteristic of the variety; a few berries are ugly in shape. Over time, signs of terry disease increase, and the disease develops very gradually.

Sometimes there is an incomplete picture of the disease, in which the tips of the shoots or individual branches are affected. The upper leaves are underdeveloped, small, dark green, three-lobed, asymmetrical. The berries on such branches are small and fewer than on healthy plants, and sometimes the fruits are not set at all.

Control measures. Terry is incurable. If signs of the disease are detected, diseased bushes are removed and burned, otherwise the entire plantation can be infected. In place of removed bushes, currants cannot be planted for 5 years, not only black ones, but also red and white ones. The fight against the virus is ineffective because it does not destroy plant tissue, but invades the cell, as a result of which it loses its normal functions and begins to produce a virus. To kill it, you need to kill the cell, and this is impossible without killing the entire bush.

Prevention of disease.

1. If there were diseased plants on the plantation, then before pruning the remaining bushes, garden tools must be treated with alcohol or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pest control. They carry the virus with saliva to healthy crops.
3. There is a recommendation to use healthy planting material. But by the appearance of cuttings and seedlings it is impossible to determine whether they are healthy or infected with terry. Infected 2-year-old seedlings look quite healthy; only the smell, which is rather weak for black currants, can be alarming. The disease manifests itself only during the growth and development of bushes. To prevent the disease, varieties resistant to terry are planted: Pamyat Michurina, Dubrovskaya, Binar, Nara, Primorsky Champion, Lia Fertile, Zhelannaya. The black currant varieties Zagadka, Odzhebin (Swedish variety), and Alexandrina are not resistant to the disease. Of the red currants, the Red Cross and Shchedraya varieties are very susceptible to terry.

Green mottle

The photo shows a currant leaf affected by green mottling.

Description of the disease. A viral disease of currants, the causative agent of which is the cucumber mosaic virus. Affects all types of currants. The disease spreads quite slowly in plantings. The source of infection is about 60 species various plants, including weeds, as well as infected planting material. Its main carrier is aphids.

Signs of defeat. When black currants bud, pale green dots appear on young leaves. In summer they turn into watery streaks stretched along the veins. Sometimes, instead of strokes, pale green spots appear, which occupy large areas of the sheet and are very clearly visible in transmitted light.

In red and white currants, instead of light green streaks, pale yellow spots appear near the petiole. The spots can be large, but are always located in the central part of the leaf. The leaves are severely deformed, wrinkled, and their edges curl down. Most often, with yellowing of the leaves on red and white currants, young shoots dry out.

In young bushes and rooted cuttings, the first signs appear on next year after landing. If currants are propagated by seeds, the disease appears in the same year.

The bushes begin to lag behind in growth, the yield decreases.

Control measures. Green mottle is incurable. When the first signs appear, the bushes are uprooted and burned.

Disease prevention.

1. Control of weeds that are affected by the virus (bindweed, sow thistle, woodlice, quinoa). Pumpkin should not be planted next to bushes, as it is also susceptible to the disease.
2. Destruction of aphids in the garden.

Glass rust

Description of the disease. The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. Its spores overwinter on sedge plant remains and can withstand very coldy, and in the spring they are transferred to currants by the wind. Affects ovaries, berries, leaves. All types of currants and gooseberries are susceptible to damage. The disease is very common in the North-Western regions and middle lane. The disease progresses especially strongly in wet years, when 70-78% of leaves and 40-45% of ovaries on black currants and 57-68% on red currants are affected.

Signs of defeat. At the end of May and beginning of June, yellow, slightly convex spots appear on the leaves and petioles on the upper side. Sporulation of the fungus with goblet-shaped depressions appears on the lower side. As the spores mature, they scatter, causing a new infection. Affected leaves and ovaries fall off by mid-summer.

How to treat the disease.

1. Autumn processing tree trunk circles, collection and destruction of affected leaves.
2. In the spring, before the buds open, they are treated with 3% Bordeaux mixture or HOM. When buds open, treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of drugs.
3. Before the buds open, they are treated with nitrafen (if you can find it, the chemical is not commercially available). The drug is effective against many diseases and pests, but it cannot be used after sap flow begins. Spray the branches and water around the perimeter of the bushes.
4. When the first signs appear, they are sprayed with Topaz, Skor, and the biological product Fitosporin.

Folk remedies for fighting glass rust. The most popular of them is spraying with an infusion of tobacco dust and garlic. The mixture is prepared as follows: 200 g of tobacco dust is infused for 3 days in 2 liters of water; A glass of cloves is poured with 2 liters of boiling water and left for 3 days. Then everything is mixed, household ingredients are added. soap as an adhesive, add hot pepper on the tip of a knife. The bushes are sprayed with this solution until the buds open.

Prevention.

1. Mowing sedge within a radius of 500 meters from the site.
2. Planting fairly resistant currant varieties. There are no varieties that are absolutely resistant to rust yet, but there are those that are very weakly affected by the disease. From black currants these are Sevchanka, Selechenskaya 2, Bylinnaya, Veloy, Kipiana. From red - Detvan, Beloved, Dana; from white - Smolyaninovskaya, Minusinskaya white.
3. During the season, preventive spraying of currants with biological products (Gamair, Alirin B, Fitosporin) is carried out.

Columnar rust

The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. It overwinters on Weymouth pine and Siberian cedar, and in the spring it infects berry bushes. Plantings located near coniferous forests are especially affected.

Signs of defeat. Signs of the disease begin to appear in mid-summer. Yellow-brown spots appear on the leaves on the upper side, which can then merge. On the underside, rusty growths appear - these are pads with fungal spores, which subsequently stretch into hairs or columns. Diseased leaves turn yellow and fall off, leaving the bush bare.

How to spray currants against columnar rust.

1. In the spring, spray three times with copper-containing preparations. The first treatment is done when the buds open, the second - 10-14 days after the first, the third - 2 weeks after the second. If the weather is very rainy, then carry out the fourth spraying after 12-17 days.
2. Spraying with Fitosporin three times with an interval of 10-15 days.

Traditional methods of fighting the disease.

1. Spraying with a mixture of infusions of tobacco dust and garlic.
2. Spraying with soda solution. 3 tablespoons of soda are poured into 10 liters of water, add liquid soap. Spraying is carried out at the onset of the disease. It is also necessary to treat the leaves on the underside, where the spores ripen.

Prevention.

1. In early spring, before the snow has melted, they pour boiling water over the bushes.
2. Timely cutting out all diseased and damaged branches.
3. In areas prone to severe spread of the disease (lowlands, forests), varieties resistant to rust are planted.

Powdery mildew

Signs of defeat. A white cobwebby coating appears in the form of spots on the leaves of diseased currants, which spreads very quickly. After 3-5 days, the plaque thickens, acquires a brown-gray tint, becomes felt-like, and spores form in it. After they disperse, droplets of liquid remain (hence the name). The leaves stop developing, turn brown and dry out, and the shoots become deformed. The berries become covered with a felt coating and become unsuitable for food.

The photo shows currant berries affected by powdery mildew.

When widespread, young growth develops poorly, becomes thin and deformed, and the yield is greatly reduced or completely lost. The disease significantly reduces the winter hardiness of currants.

Treatment of currants.

The disease is very difficult to completely eradicate.

1. At the first signs of damage, spraying with copper-containing preparations (HOM, Ordan) is carried out. Bordeaux mixture is ineffective against powdery mildew. Before spraying, remove all infected berries, leaves, and shoots.
2. Treatment of plantings with colloidal sulfur and preparations based on it (Tiovit Jet). Treatment can be carried out 3-4 days before picking berries, since sulfur and its derivatives are not toxic to humans.
3. Spraying with Skor, Quadris, Tilt. With the constant appearance of powdery mildew on varieties susceptible to it, 4-fold treatment with these drugs is carried out. ! spraying after the leaves bloom before flowering; 2nd - immediately after flowering; 3rd - after picking berries; 4th 10-14 days after the third. If the summer is very wet, then 15-17 days after the last spraying, another treatment is carried out.

When treating with any preparation, it is necessary to spray the leaves from the underside. The disease is very difficult to eradicate. The pathogen quickly develops resistance to fungicides, making them ineffective. To prevent this from happening, spray with a new drug each time.

Folk ways to combat powdery mildew.

1. Spraying with iodine. 10 ml of 5% iodine solution (sold in a pharmacy), diluted in 10 liters of water. Spray twice with an interval of 10 days. Effective in the initial stage of the disease, when arachnoid plaque has just appeared.
2. Mustard infusion. 2 tbsp. spoons of dry mustard are dissolved in 10 liters of boiling water, left for 1-1.5 hours. The treatment is carried out with a cooled infusion.
3. Spraying diseased currant bushes with a very strong solution of potassium permanganate. Carry out 3-fold treatment with an interval of 5 days.
4. Ash-soap solution. 1 kg of wood ash is poured into 10 liters of boiling water and left for 24-48 hours. Then the infusion is filtered, 50 g of soap is added and the diseased bushes are sprayed. The treatment is repeated after 7-10 days. The method is effective only at the very beginning of the disease.

Prevention.

1. Moderate pruning of infected plantings and, at the same time, complete cutting out of all unnecessary weak young branches, especially in the lower part of the bush, since powdery mildew begins from the lower branches and primarily affects young leaves and shoots.
2. Preventive “blue” spraying in the spring when leaves bloom with preparations containing copper.
3. In early spring, before the buds open, spray with a concentrated solution of urea (700-800 g of urea per 10 liters of water).
4. 4-fold treatment during the growing season with biological products (Fitosporin, Gamair, Alirin B, Planriz.
5. Planting varieties resistant to powdery mildew. Among black-fruited varieties - Riddle, Zvezdnaya, Selechenskaya, Yadrenaya, Rita, Sevchanka. From the red one - Svetlana, Krasnaya Andreichenko, Jonker Van Tets. From white - Dessert, White squirrel, Cream.
6. Mandatory reduction in doses of nitrogen fertilizers.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose on currants.

Description of the disease. The causative agent is a pathogenic fungus. Overwinters on plant debris, damaged bark and young shoots. Affects all types of currants and gooseberries. On black, as a rule, only leaves are affected, on red and white - leaf petioles, stalks, young shoots and berries. It develops especially strongly in damp but hot summers and in the southern regions. In the middle zone it appears in mid-summer; in the south it can be observed as early as May. In dry summers, anthracnose damage is minimal. Spore carriers are pests. Fungal spores are easily spread by wind.

Signs of defeat. First, light brown glossy spots appear on the affected leaves, which then turn brown and merge with each other, affecting large areas of the leaf plate. The leaves curl upward, dry out and fall off prematurely. First of all, the old leaves in the center of the bush are affected, then anthracnose spreads to younger leaves. If the disease is severe, currants may lose all their foliage by August.

Brown-gray small ulcerated depressions appear on the affected petioles, young shoots and stalks. Small black, glossy spots appear on the berries. Affected fruits fall off without ripening. The growth of annual shoots slows down greatly and they grow poorly.

Anthracnose is a dangerous disease of currants.

If leaves are damaged on red and white currants, the bushes drop their foliage, even if there are only a few spots of anthracnose on it.

The winter hardiness of affected plants is sharply reduced. In cold winters, up to 50% of bush branches can freeze. Productivity is falling sharply.

How the disease is treated.

1. If the damage is minor, remove the affected parts manually.
2. Spraying 4 times during the summer with preparations containing copper. The first treatment is carried out before the buds open. Then, at intervals of 10-14 days (depending on the weather), 3 more treatments are done.
3. Cleaning up fallen leaves and plant debris.
4. Careful weeding of currant rows.
5. In the early stages, biological products (Fitosporin, Alirin B) help well. The same preparations are used to spray bushes when berries are damaged. Biofungicides are not dangerous to humans and the crop can be harvested 2-3 days after treatment.
6. Autumn treatment of the soil around plants with the biological product Trichoderma.

Folk remedies they are ineffective against anthracnose and if the disease appears on currants, chemicals must be used immediately.

Prevention.

1. Annual spraying of bushes with preparations containing copper.
2. Use varieties that are resistant to anthracnose. Black currant - Lazy, Sevchanka. Red - Generous, Svetlana. White - Belaya Potapenko, Yutenberg.
3. Before planting, cuttings are disinfected by immersing them in a solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then washed with water. The seedlings are sprayed with the same solution.
4. Proper nutrition. Foliar feeding in summer increases the resistance of currants to diseases in general and anthracnose in particular. Use a phosphorus extract, or prepare a complex fertilizer: 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate, immunocytitis 1 tab, water 10 l. Spray the leaves from the top and bottom sides.

Septoria or white spot

The disease is caused by a pathogenic fungus that overwinters on young shoots, plant debris and bark. It affects black currants very strongly, and to a lesser extent red and white ones.

Signs of defeat. Leaves, buds, and sometimes berries are affected. The first signs appear at the beginning of summer, the peak of development occurs in the second half of summer. Very small round or angular red-brown spots appear on the leaves. They quickly enlarge, lighten in the center and become white with a brown border. Black dots appear in their center - this is the sporulation of the fungus. Over the summer, several generations of spores are formed.

Elongated spots with a brown border and light in the center appear on the petioles and stems. Subsequently, the stains are pressed into the wood and form small pits.

Small flat dark spots appear on the berries, and the fruits dry out.

With septoria, the leaves dry out and fall off en masse, the bush becomes depleted, and the buds do not open. The yield of affected bushes is greatly reduced.

How to deal with white spotting.

1. Collecting and burning affected leaves, berries, shoots.
2. Three-time treatment with copper-containing preparations during the summer. The first spraying after the leaves bloom, subsequent sprayings at intervals of 12-15 days.
3. Treatment with systemic fungicide Bayleton.

Prevention. If the bushes suffer from a disease every year, then feeding with microelements at the beginning of the growing season helps increase resistance. Also, they are treated with the immunostimulant Zircon.

Tubercular disease or drying out of branches (nectria necrosis)

Tubercular disease is an insidious disease of currants that can infect the entire garden.

Signs of defeat. The spores fall on young 2-4 year old shoots and germinate into the wood. The mycelium feeds on cell sap. Brick-red dots (sporulation pads) appear on the bark, which gradually darken and dry out. The bark on the affected branches dies, the tips of the shoots, and sometimes entire infected branches dry out and die. The young growth dies, the currant grows poorly and does not lay flower buds (since in red currant they are laid at the border of older and younger wood).

Control measures should be taken immediately, since the disease enters the garden through red currants and can then spread to all shrubs and fruit trees (apple, plum, cherry).

1. Cut all affected branches to the base. If the bush is severely damaged, it is uprooted, even if there are healthy shoots on it. All cut branches are immediately burned, as the fungus can still develop on the dead wood for some time and disperse the spores.
2. Treatment of plantings with Topsin-M. The drug has a contact-systemic effect, penetrates the wood and kills the mycelium. Apply once per season, as addiction to it quickly develops.

Prevention.

1. Use healthy planting material, without damage to the bark, bare and drying tips of the shoots.
2. Spraying with preparations containing copper. When infected, this remedy is ineffective, since the mycelium penetrates deep into the wood. But as a preventive measure, copper-containing preparations perfectly protect shrubs from disease.
3. Removing all branches located close to the ground. They are often damaged during soil cultivation and serve as a potential entry point for the pathogen.

This is what marginal necrosis of currant leaves looks like

This is not a disease as such, but a reaction of currants to excess chlorine in the soil. Occurs on all types of currants and gooseberries.

Signs of defeat. The edges of the leaves become light brown or ashy in color and dry out. There is a sharp border between dried and healthy tissue; the leaves do not curl, but become more light shade. The symptoms are similar to those of potassium starvation, but distinctive feature excess chlorine is that the leaves do not wrinkle or curl and there is a clear boundary between the healthy and affected parts. With a lack of potassium, the leaves wrinkle and curl upward, but do not fall off; there is no clear boundary between healthy and diseased tissue.

Control measures. Immediate feeding with ammonium nitrate. It is necessary to ensure that the fertilizer reaches the roots quickly, which can be achieved by abundant watering after application or deep incorporation of the fertilizer.

Proper care of currants significantly increases its resistance to any diseases.

Are the currant bushes, which once delighted you with an abundance of harvest, withering away right before your eyes? Apparently, currant diseases have not spared your plantings either. To react in time and take the necessary measures to save your loved one garden culture, read our article about what diseases affect the plant and how to fight them.

Article outline

Disease Prevention

An integrated approach to treating currant bushes twice a season (in autumn and spring) will help prevent, and sometimes even completely avoid, infection of the plant with various viral, fungal diseases and pests.

How to process currants in spring?

Due to the early onset of sap flow, preventive measures are taken to improve the health of plant bushes in early spring until the buds swell. The fight against pests and diseases of black and red currants begins with a “hot shower.”

To irrigate three bushes you will need 10 liters hot water 80 degrees. Upon completion of watering, the bushes must be carefully inspected and dry branches, mite-affected buds must be removed, and the soil at the base of the bush must be cleared of weed residues and last year’s leaves (a favorite wintering place for pest larvae).

• For preventive purposes, the bush and the ground under it must be treated with nitrophen. This spraying will reduce the risk of infection by 70%. It is important to carry out the treatment before the buds open.
• Currants are also useful, aimed at destroying fungal spores, and during the period of active growth the bush can be sprayed regularly (once every 2 weeks).

Important! In order for currant bushes to survive the spraying procedure against bud mites without harm to health, the plant is treated at temperatures above +20 degrees. At lower thermometer readings, you need to wrap the bushes in transparent polyethylene.

Preventative treatment in autumn

Before treatment, it is necessary to thoroughly prune the plant, during which old branches are removed (at least 2/3 of the total length), branches affected by vitreous (withered, dry) and buds affected by spider mites are cut out.

For spraying, choose a warm, clear, windless day. Agrotechnicians offer two options for preventive treatment: or a 2% solution of karbofos.

Preventive measures significantly reduce the likelihood of many diseases, in particular fungal infections.

Diseases: description with photos and methods of treatment

There are a number of common diseases that threaten all types of currants, including black, red and white berries.

Anthracnose

Symptoms: the appearance on the surface of the leaves of small red and brown spots with almost dark tubercles in the center; subsequently, the disease-affected leaves wither and fall off.

Treatment:

Spraying currant leaves with Bordeaux mixture is carried out twice: the first treatment is carried out immediately after signs of the disease are detected, the second - after harvesting.

Fallen leaves must be collected and destroyed. Under no circumstances should young currant seedlings be planted in a place where shrubs with anthracnose grew.

Powdery mildew

Symptoms: a loose white coating on the leaves, gradually spreading to the berries.

Treatment:

If detected early, a fungal disease can be cured by spraying the bush with a biological preparation "".

Can be used to treat powdery mildew folk remedy: dilute a bottle of iodine in a bucket of water and spray the currants on a leaf every four days.

Rust

Symptoms: orange rust spots on the leaves.

Treatment:

Fungicides of various levels are used against rust:

• "Fitosporin"
• Bordeaux mixture.

To fully restore the plant, you will need to spray it four times with an interval of 10 days.

Septoria

Symptoms: currant leaf disease manifests itself in the form of numerous brown spots.

Treatment:

An effective remedy for fungal leaf disease is: dilute 40 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

Spheroteka

Symptoms: leaf deformation, persistent white coating covering the entire surface of the bush.

Treatment:

At the initial stage of the disease, you can use folk method treatment: dilute 50 g of grated powder in 10 liters of water laundry soap and 50 g of soda ash. Spraying is carried out several times until complete cure with an interval of 5 days.

In advanced cases, use in 10 liters of water.

Striped mosaic

Symptoms: leaf veins are duplicated in orange or yellow.

Treatment:

There is no cure for a viral disease. When a mosaic is detected, the diseased plant is immediately uprooted, leaving no root stubs, and burned.

Black currants have weak immunity, so they need regular preventative spraying and proper care. Among the common diseases of the crop, there is a disease that affects only shrubs with black berries:

Reversion (terry)

Symptoms: leaf deformation (asymmetry, three-lobed leaves), flower petals lengthen, leaf color changes to purple, the plant does not bear fruit.

Treatment:

A plant infected with a mutation virus cannot be treated and can infect nearby blackcurrant plantings. To avoid large losses, it would be more advisable to remove the diseased bush by the roots and burn it.

Unlike black currants, red currants get sick less often and are resistant to viruses, without any preventive treatments for a long time. However, do not neglect the rules of caring for the plant. Red and white currant may become infected with a fungal disease:

Nectria drying of shoots

Symptoms: the formation of lumpy orange specks on the surface of the shoots, which gradually grow, and during the period of maturation of fungal spores darken.

Treatment:

If you put off treatment for too long, you can lose the entire plant. Be also prepared for the fact that young shoots affected by nectarium drying cannot be saved.

As soon as you notice the first signs of the disease, immediately remove all infected shoots and treat the cut areas with garden varnish or Bordeaux mixture.

In most cases, plant diseases can only be cured if the gardener immediately responds to the first symptoms of a plant infection.

Disease resistant varieties

As a result of breeding work, many varieties have now been developed that have natural immunity to a number of common currant diseases and pests.

Blackcurrant varieties

Katyusha

The Belarusian variety is not afraid of either powdery mildew or anthracnose. Fragrant berries have an oval shape, the owner of this variety manages to get a bountiful harvest every year.

Klussonovskaya

The best option for planting if the main problem of the site is powdery mildew and bud mites.

Kupalinka

The Belarusian variety of thin-skinned black currant, which is not susceptible to infection by mites and powdery mildew, has similar characteristics.

Memory of Vavilov

This variety is not afraid of three diseases: powdery mildew and anthracnose (high degree of resistance), bud mite (medium resistance).

Selechenskaya

A native of Russian selection, it is characterized by large berries and a high degree of resistance to American powdery mildew. Bud mite and anthracnose infect the variety quite rarely.

Titania

The Swiss variety has strong immunity and is not susceptible to anthracnose and powdery mildew, and also has average resistance to tick infection. The Belarusian variety Ceres has similar properties.

Temptation

Black currant with surprisingly large sweet berries (up to 3.5g) is not afraid of either powdery mildew or various kinds spotting.

Varieties of red currants

Natalie

The high-yielding variety is not susceptible to powdery mildew and anthracnose.

Rondome

This variety of red currant easily resists powdery mildew.

Gazelle

The compact bush will delight the owner with an abundance of harvest and strong immunity to various fungal diseases of currants.

Dutch pink

One of the most delicious varieties of red currant is relatively resistant to gall aphids and fungal infections.

When choosing a variety, you cannot rely only on the plant’s resistance to various diseases or pests; it is important to take into account the care requirements and the degree of winter hardiness.

Summer residents' experience

Black and red currants are widely known for their beneficial properties, so every gardener in our country has at least one bush of this incredible delicious berries. In the process of caring berry crop many summer residents face a number of problems, including fungal and viral diseases. We present to your attention gardeners' recommendations on how to deal with certain types of diseases:

Victor:

“I planted currant bushes in different corners of my plot so that in the event of a disease, especially a viral one, the rest of the bushes would not be affected.

I personally encountered powdery mildew. And this recipe helped me:

In a bucket with clean water pour one teaspoon of 1% copper sulfate. Processed once. The bush began to recover and actively began to grow.

For those who grow currants in one continuous strip, where the plants touch each other, I would advise not to neglect prevention. If a dangerous virus wanders into the area, like a mosaic, not a single bush will be saved!”

Andrey:

“Weakened currant bushes growing in poor soils will be more susceptible to all sorts of ailments. In general, a strong, healthy bush develops excellent immunity to viruses and even fungi, so I always feed the plant in the third year after planting the seedlings.

I do the first feeding in the spring, as soon as I notice that sap flow has begun. For early spring feeding, a nitrogen-containing composition is required. Nitrogen helps the shrub grow green mass; naturally, a plant with a well-developed vegetative mass will receive more nutrition and remain healthy for a long time. But you can’t overdo it with nitrogen: for one bush it’s enough.

The second feeding occurs during the berry formation phase. This time I use fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium. They advised me a very convenient method: we apply dry fertilizer to a shallow depth around the perimeter of the bush and spill it with water.

And during the entire period of growth of currants and gooseberries, I throw potato peelings to the bush for large berries. The fact is that these plants really love starch, so this simple fertilizer will help increase the yield.”