A bathhouse with an attic is convenient and practical. This bathhouse has an additional room; it can be used as a rest room or even for an overnight stay. An excellent option would be to insulate the attic; in this case, it will become a full-fledged room where you can stay overnight not only on a summer day, but also in winter.
It is especially important to have a residential attic with insulation if the bathhouse is located on a summer cottage where there is no full-fledged house. It will eliminate the need to build an additional building.
Bathhouse with attic
To insulate the attic, you can invite specialists or do it yourself. The first option is suitable for people who do not have time or enough knowledge. If you are confident in your abilities and want to save money, then it is better to use the option of insulating the attic yourself.
But before you start any work, you need to decide what is the best way to insulate the attic.
How to insulate an attic for winter living? Which material to choose?
When choosing how to decorate the attic from the inside, you need to focus on the winter in the region: if it is not too long and not severe, then you can limit yourself to not too expensive and thick insulation. If you live in a region where Cold winter, then it is better to use quality material and lay it in several layers.
You can insulate the attic with one of the following materials:
Mineral wool in the form of slabs based on basalt fibers is the most popular material for thermal insulation. Mineral wool is sold in the form of rolls, mats and rectangular slabs. This material is fireproof, does not contain harmful impurities, and has high heat and sound insulation properties. But it absorbs moisture, so it is better to use mineral wool for wall insulation, and it is recommended to choose a different material for the ceiling and floor.
Mineral wool Polyurethane foam is a viscous, self-foaming composition; it is sprayed onto walls and roofs, fills all gaps and provides effective protection from the cold. Polyurethane foam has good thermal insulation properties. The disadvantage of the material is that you need to use a special sprayer to cover it, so if you want to insulate the attic yourself, this option is not suitable.
Polyurethane foam Glass wool is a budget material. It is environmentally friendly, fire resistant, has good thermal insulation properties, and does not contain toxic compounds. The main disadvantage is that it contains glass, so self installation quite difficult. In addition, if the material is poorly fixed to the inclined surface, the thermal insulation material may begin to move away from the walls, and this will lead to the room becoming cold.
Glass wool
Ecowool is a material consisting of cellulose and antiseptic. Ecowool itself is afraid of fire and is susceptible to rodents, so it is covered with special protective equipment. The insulation material is absolutely safe for humans, but its use requires the use of special equipment.
Ecowool Penoplex is an environmentally friendly, safe and durable material. It is resistant to moisture and fire, and has a low price. This material can be installed with your own hands.
Penoplex Styrofoam - cheap material, but it is completely unsuitable for a bath. Polystyrene foam is toxic, a fire hazard, and rodents often breed in it. Its advantages include light weight and ease of installation.
Of course, it is impossible to say unequivocally what is better to sheathe the inside of the attic. Everyone decides for themselves. But to help you decide what to cover the inside of the attic with, we can give one more piece of advice.
Typically, the attic does not have a rectangular shape, so the insulation must be laid at an angle. For this reason, it is better not to use flexible and soft materials for thermal insulation. When deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is better to choose a tiled material that is easy to install.
How to insulate an attic? Methods
There are several ways to sheathe an attic.
Installation thermal insulation material between the rafters
This option has the advantage that there is no need to create a ventilation gap between the roof and the thermal insulation layer. But in this case, an additional requirement is imposed on the material: it must be as thick as rafters.
Installation of thermal insulation material between rafters Installation of thermal insulation material above the rafters
In this case, the area of the room will not be reduced due to the thermal insulation material, and the beams can be used as a decorative element. But it will be necessary to make high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier.
Installation of thermal insulation material above the rafters How to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands: instructions
Insulation of the attic from the inside should be carried out correctly at the stage of construction or major repairs. But before moving on to thermal insulation, you need to prepare the surface.
Step 1. Preparation for insulation of the attic floor
First you need to clean the wooden rafters from dust and treat them with an antiseptic.
If the attic dimensions are large, then you can equip a standard rectangular room with ceilings and partitions.
Preparation for insulation of the attic floor Step 2. Insulating the attic floor of the bathhouse
Need to make a bed waterproofing material on wooden joists. If in the bath reinforced concrete floors, then it is necessary to fix an additional layer for sound insulation and make holes in the corners for ventilation.
On next stage work, it is necessary to prepare the subfloor: install wooden logs 15 cm high.
Place thermal insulation material between the beams. Expanded polystyrene is suitable for self-leveling floors, and mineral wool for wooden floors.
After this, you can proceed to the installation of the finished floor and finishing coating.
If you lay thermal insulation material in several layers, then you need to lay them in such a way that the seams of different rows do not coincide, in this case you can avoid the appearance of drafts.
Insulation of the attic floor of a bathhouse The next layer when insulating the attic roof will be a vapor barrier membrane; it can be attached using construction stapler. The joints must be overlapped by at least 10 cm and the material must be secured with metallized tape.
Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside Step 4. Insulating the attic walls from the inside with your own hands
This step is not always relevant; there are attics where the roof reaches the floor. But if you have a different structure, then you need to know how to properly insulate the attic and its walls.
To do this, it is necessary to attach the waterproofing film well to the walls, install wooden frame around the window niche. Mount the beam below. Place a heat insulator between the timber and the sheathing. Fix the vapor barrier membrane to the wall.
Do-it-yourself insulation of attic walls from the inside Step 5. Insulating the attic gable from the inside
The pediment is considered the least protected part of the building, so special attention should be paid to its insulation.
If we talk about how to insulate the gable of an attic from the inside, then, in fact, the process of work is similar to insulating the remaining parts of the bathhouse (wall, roof, floor): you need to clean the surface, cover it with a waterproofing membrane, make a sheathing, put a layer of thermal insulation and vapor barrier.
Arranging a living space in place of an attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out renovations so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Let's consider how to insulate an attic if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.
An attic is not just a lived-in attic. There are some standards that distinguish these two premises from each other. First of all, the attic roof must have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the standard must be at least 2.5 m.
Focusing on attractive appearance, many decide to arrange an attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:
- the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
- Properly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to provide all the necessary communications on the upper floor, have no less influence;
- The shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-pitch, gable or broken;
- in order to hide load-bearing elements roofs, you will have to use your imagination;
- the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns.
Each of these aspects has its own influence on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and water insulation. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation to appear, which has a destructive effect on materials.
The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation
There are many suitable options for internal insulation of the attic. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the specific roof with which you will be working. Let's look at what options exist today and what features are typical for them.
Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: the pros and cons of the material
Polystyrene foam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than many others, but this is far from its only advantage:
- polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this purpose, then the water will simply flow down over the surface;
- light weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
- the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is very low, so it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
- Styrofoam is easy to cut and attach. This allows you to work with it without any problems even if you lack any experience.
Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.
Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that foam plastic is practically a win-win when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:
- the vapor permeability of foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. This also leads to increased humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on wooden roofing elements;
- despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
- Over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.
Many believe that the listed disadvantages outweigh the advantages and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is not justified. But one cannot help but admit that this is one of the most budget options, which causes a minimum of hassle, and if the installation technology is followed, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.
Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features
Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their specifications almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If polystyrene foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.
Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. This fixation of elements together is an ideal option for insulating an attic roof.
Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the service life of this material is quite long, provided that all the technology for insulating the attic with penoplex is followed.
Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition, which is also important in the case of work on the roof. Any finishing coating can be applied over it, which will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.
Working with polystyrene foam yourself is easy: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases they even use a construction stapler. So there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements for installation.
But behind all these positive characteristics, we must not forget about the only, but rather serious drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of flammability. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful installation of all communications, in particular electricity.
Of course, manufacturers are trying to reduce this drawback to a minimum, but today we can say with confidence that this question remains open, and every owner who has chosen to insulate the walls from the inside with penoplex is obliged to take care of their safety.
Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for insulating balconies. Expanded polystyrene has very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.
Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex
Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its properties. It got its name because of its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.
Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability to not absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.
Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if top part The roof will be covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating when exposed to sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.
Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool must be done taking into account the fact that this is a fairly elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, provided it is properly fixed.
Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of approximately 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements fastenings
Insulating the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material?
In terms of its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Strength indicators and soundproofing abilities are also slightly higher. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.
The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by low flammability.
When working with the material, safety regulations must be followed to avoid glass wool fibers getting into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and safety glasses is a must.
Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can cause skin irritation, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.
Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside using stone wool
Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main advantages:
- The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
- stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
- the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
- the level of vapor permeability is very high;
- the material practically does not burn;
- no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
- the material has a long service life;
- You can purchase stone wool in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.
Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it very quickly pays off the incurred costs.
Related article:
Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for the roof. Insulation of the attic roof.
In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. Video instructions can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and recommendations from specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.
Insulating the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold
Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.
Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material - paper, the properties of which are very similar to those characteristic of wood. Given its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.
One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide wooden roof elements with effective protection against the formation of fungus and mold.
Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So the not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.
Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam: basic technology and material features
Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern of all the listed methods for insulating an attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that could become a source of cold air. In addition, the service life of this material is one of the longest, up to 30 years.
Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if wooden roof the house gradually begins to deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.
But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as roof insulation with inside. This primarily concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.
Another aspect is the complex application technology, which requires certain experience in this field and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task efficiently.
Helpful advice! The ideal option is to invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will do high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation from the inside using penofol
Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among methods modern insulation walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation rates, it is also worth noting the fact that penofol has a high-quality aluminum coating, which can be applied to one or two sides.
Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:
- the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
- its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
- the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.
This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments to implement. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money once on high-quality material and thereby ensure comfortable conditions residence for many years to come.
Combining materials is not at all uncommon. Materials with compatible characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam go well together. The first is placed between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.
Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials
As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of correspondence between price and quality of the material.
One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but the choice must be taken into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on thermal insulation material may lead to the fact that after some time of operation, you will have to carry out renovation work or even completely replace all the material.
Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work
Each material has its own fastening characteristics and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.
The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is overlapped so that one layer overlaps the other by 10-15 cm. The material is secured using a construction stapler, and the joints are additionally taped.
Then, if necessary, a sheathing is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. They need to be attached to the rafters, positioned parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately, using a building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.
A heat insulator is placed on the rafters or sheathing and secured in a suitable manner. For example, if we are talking about using any type of wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the required size in order to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case everything free space must be filled with insulation.
The top layer of this “pie” is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As with waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case it is better to fasten it using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be taped.
Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.
As a final step, all that remains is to take care of a suitable finishing coating, which can be attached to the sheathing or, in the absence of it, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the decorative panels used, since installation of the heaviest of them may require preliminary installation of a metal profile frame.
The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic
The final result of the work, which is done by hand, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is worth paying particular attention to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture subsequently dry out, which often causes cold in the room.
- if the roof slope does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to remain on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
- installation of thermal insulation material on walls and roof is not all necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of insulating windows (using Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to ensure that leaks are avoided. Especially if it is necessary to install windows at an angle;
- in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of approximately 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
- it is strictly forbidden to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
- If the thermal insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats yourself.
These simple recommendations can help in the work process, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.
Insulating the attic gable from the inside is far from the most difficult task, which a home owner may encounter. Often, owners want to place a balcony on the top floor, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.
As with walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on a balcony, although it is worth noting that loggia insulation technology, which has not been mentioned before, is often used here. The step-by-step instructions “Insulating a balcony from the inside with your own hands” will help you understand in detail the features of this process.
Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instructions
As a clear example, it is recommended to watch a training video where the technology of insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.
Increasingly, when building a private house, owners plan to use the under-roof space as an attic. It is very important to ensure living comfort no worse than on full floors; for this purpose, insulation is performed. Before insulating the attic, you need to carefully study this issue.
Advantages of the attic
The attic floor is considered to be a heated room under the roof, and the height of the external walls should be from 0 to 150 cm. Planning such a floor has the following advantages:
- opportunity interesting design premises;
- reduction in the cost per square meter of living space;
- additional living space.
Drawing of the attic floor
Insulation areas
When designing an attic space, you need to think about the thermal protection of the roof and walls. Insulating the attic with your own hands will allow you to save significantly at the construction or repair stage and fully control the process.
Insulating the attic roof from the inside can significantly reduce heat losses as heated air moves upward. Thermal protection of walls can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside. The choice of method depends on the technology for insulating the external walls of the entire building. From a heating engineering point of view, it is wise to install the material on the cold air side.
If necessary, thermal insulation material is also placed in the ceiling structure. In this case, the insulation plays the role of sound insulation and ensures maximum living comfort.
Wall insulation
To insulate the attic floor and ensure that the temperature is maintained during winter period apply following materials:
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
- mineral wool (glass wool, basalt, slag);
- polyurethane foam (spray foam).
These materials are the most effective for thermal protection. If necessary, thermal insulation can be installed from the inside of the room, but it is best to install the material from the outside. Insulating an attic from the inside with your own hands has the following disadvantages:
- reducing the usable space of the room;
- protection from cold only the internal volume of the building, not including external fences;
- shift of the dew point (condensation during the cold period) deep into the structure of the outer wall.
But it is worth noting that this method can be used in any weather; it does not require additional scaffolding and scaffolding. The work can be performed without special qualifications.
To answer the question of how to properly insulate an attic from the inside, it is necessary to consider the order in which the layers are laid. It is important to ensure reliable protection thermal insulation material from any type of moisture.
For this purpose, vapor barrier and waterproofing are used. The most important rule when insulating walls and any other structures: vapor barrier is always located on the warm air side, and waterproofing on the cold air side. If these conditions are not met, the entire wall pie will not work correctly and will soon require not only cosmetic, but also more serious repairs.
The procedure for carrying out work for all types of thermal insulation does not differ significantly. To ensure reliable thermal insulation, it is best to proceed in the following order:
- cleaning and leveling the base (when using polyurethane foam, it is recommended to moisten the base with water from a spray bottle to improve the adhesion of the polyurethane foam to the surface);
- fixing waterproofing;
- installation of a frame to secure the insulation (if necessary);
- installation of insulation and its fastening;
- vapor barrier layer;
- interior decoration premises (for fragile materials, installation of plasterboard sheets will be required).
When using extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, vapor barrier can be neglected. When installed in rooms with normal humidity conditions, foam plastic also does not need it.
Roof insulation
The technology for insulating an attic roof in most cases involves laying heat-insulating material between the rafters. It is best to use the following materials:
- mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs;
- Styrofoam;
- polyurethane foam.
It should be remembered that when working with mineral wool and polyurethane foam, the performer will need protective clothing. Thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam is held in the designed position due to adhesion (adhesion) to the surface. To improve this quality, it is recommended to slightly moisten the roofing elements with water before application.
When using slabs mineral wool It is best to set the pitch of the rafter legs so that the clear distance between them is 580 mm. This will simplify the installation process when using standard slabs 600 mm wide and prevent the appearance of gaps between the insulation and wooden structures.
The joints between the foam and the rafters are filled with polyurethane foam or sealant. Fastening is done using special glue or nails. Adhesive composition must not contain solvents (alcohol, acetone).
How to properly insulate an attic with your own hands? It is important to observe the following order of roof layers:
- finishing;
- sheathing;
- vapor barrier;
- rafters and insulation between them;
- waterproofing;
- wind protection;
- sheathing;
- roofing material.
First, the load-bearing roof structures are installed, after which waterproofing and wind protection are installed. After installing the top sheathing, begin laying the insulation. It is better to use special moisture and windproof membranes as wind protection and waterproofing.
Laying insulation into the floor structure
To prevent increased audibility between floors, you can lay 30-50 cm of insulation in the floor pie. Installation can be carried out under a screed or along joists. When using polyurethane foam, installation of logs is always required. When installing foam plastic under the screed, it is reinforced with additional mesh reinforcement; the diameter of the reinforcement is taken to be 4 mm.
Calculation of insulation thickness
Before insulating the attic, it is necessary not only to select a heat-insulating material, but also its thickness. It depends on the climatic region of construction and on the thermal conductivity of the insulation. It is better to choose materials with a lower thermal conductivity value: the higher it is, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will be required. The value for private construction can be taken approximately.
You can perform a full-fledged thermotechnical calculation using a fairly simple Teremok program. It is freely available and quite easy to use. Using this application, you can select the thickness of the thermal insulator or check the already accepted one.
Proper insulation of the attic from the inside will ensure comfortable living and avoid problems during operation.
It is important to pay equal attention to all external surfaces. Thermal insulation, chosen correctly, can last a long time and reliably protect the house from the cold in winter.
How to insulate an attic: methods and technology
To keep the house warm, it is necessary to properly insulate the attic floor. We will tell you how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.
Technology for insulating the attic from the inside
- Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
- Do-it-yourself methods for insulating an attic
- The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
- Wall insulation
An attic is an attic space equipped for human habitation or any household needs (greenhouse, office, etc.). Depending on what the room is intended for, its layout and the type of roof, the attic may have different configurations, but General requirements, according to which the attic must be insulated from the inside, remain the same.
Layout of insulation in the attic roof.
Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
You need to understand that this room, unlike all the others, is colder, because... there is no “thermal cushion” on top. That is why insulation of the attic of a house from the inside, done with your own hands, must be of especially high quality. Based on this, you should choose the insulation material with which the insulation will be performed.
The difficulty is that the surfaces are uneven, because There are rafter beams under the roof that will have to be bypassed. The waterproofing layer will need to be brought under the roof in order for the condensate to drain. In the process of organizing work on insulating the roof and walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account that the end walls also need to be covered, because It is through them that a huge amount of heat escapes.
Attic insulation scheme.
Each private house has its own characteristics, shape and configuration of the roof, material of the walls and roofing. Consequently, for each individual house there may be some special, clarifying recommendations, according to which you need to insulate the roof and walls of the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. To ensure high-quality and reliable insulation, you need to choose the right materials. The choice of material with which it is better to insulate the roof and walls of the attic of a house from the inside with your own hands depends on many factors: roof structure, roofing material, climate in the area, etc.
Polystyrene foam is one of the least expensive and most popular materials with which you can insulate the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. It is easy to process and install. However, it has low vapor permeability, which means the room may be damp. So, if the attic will be used as a living space, it is better to insulate it with another material.
Insulate correctly and efficiently residential attic You can do it yourself using polystyrene foam. When laying this material there will be practically no joints.
Mineral wool is an excellent material in all respects.
Having high strength, basalt mineral wool is fireproof, practically does not conduct heat and does not absorb moisture. Since this material is elastic, it holds well in the installation site, resting its edges on the rafters. So it is best to insulate the walls of a residential attic from the inside with this material. you can properly insulate your home with mineral wool, even if you have never worked with this material before.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to install waterproofing, vapor barrier and a ventilation system. A properly constructed waterproofing membrane will perform the following functions:
- ensure protection of structural elements from precipitation;
- prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation.
Waterproofing must be laid on a layer of insulation. Among the waterproofing films, the following are distinguished:
- diffusion and breathing superdiffusion;
- anti-condensation waterproofing.
The vapor barrier consists of several layers of reinforced polyethylene film, which provides good protection of the structure from condensation.
A ventilation system is needed to ensure the outflow of waste and the inflow fresh air, and to effectively maintain normal air humidity in the attic room.
Do-it-yourself methods for insulating an attic
Attic insulation, diagram.
There are several methods according to which you can properly insulate the attic of a house from the inside with your own hands.
Insulation between existing rafters is one of the most commonly used methods. With this method, the insulation is laid directly on the waterproofing, to the entire height of the rafter legs. The slabs should be 10-15 mm wider than the gaps between the rafters.
Thermal insulation above the rafters. Everything needs to be done right away Finishing work from the inside, and lay the heat-insulating material on the rafters under the roofing.
Another popular method is to insulate the attic under the rafters. This method is not used in residential construction and for low-rise buildings, but for industrial buildings it is the best option.
There are also combined schemes. The most popular scheme includes insulation under the rafters and between them. In this case, the rafters themselves are completely overlapped. The vapor barrier film must be laid on top of a layer of thermal insulation material. Among the disadvantages, one can highlight a slight reduction in the usable space of the attic itself. This insulation method is more effective, but also more complex in design. In this case, insulation is performed with complete overlap of rafters and beams between the beams and with outside roofs.
The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
Attic insulation scheme: insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing.
To insulate an attic with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:
- foam sheets or mineral wool;
- waterproofing film;
- wooden blocks;
- vapor barrier film;
- scissors;
- sharp knife;
- construction stapler;
- nails;
- polyurethane foam.
First of all, you need to lay waterproofing along the rafters. The film is laid along the entire height - from the bottom to the ridge of the roof. However, this is not done in all cases, because roofing material sometimes also serves as such an insulator. If the coating is made, for example, from roofing iron, it will be quite enough. When installing insulation, you need to know its thermal conductivity coefficient. This data is usually provided in the product certificate. Based on this information, you should decide whether 1 layer will be enough or whether you need to do double installation.
When installing this material, you need to remember that some distance should be left between it and the roof. This air gap necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation at the location where the insulation is installed. The thickness of the air gap depends on the covering material of your roof. If the material has a wavy shape (metal tiles, roof tiles), then the air gap should be at least 25 mm. In cases of using a “flat” format (steel sheets, rolled materials, asbestos cement), the distance between the insulation and the roof must be doubled.
Another important point is that the thickness of the insulator slabs and rafters can be different. If the slabs are “thinner”, the first layer is laid between the rafters, and the second must be laid on the rafters. If the slabs are thicker, wooden slats must be placed on the rafters.
To protect the thermal insulation material from excessive humidity, a vapor barrier must be applied on top. As you know, warm air tends upward and condenses there. That is why such protection is mandatory. Polyethylene film, glassine, foil materials, and roofing felt are used as materials for the vapor barrier layer. You need to know that the vapor barrier material is laid overlapping, and the places of such joints must be sealed (the most convenient way is with tape). Fastening is usually done using thin wooden slats.
Wall insulation
The attic walls are insulated if the roof of your house does not reach the attic floor. First, you need to attach slats to the walls to lay the thermal insulation and vapor barrier layers. The method of performing the work is similar to that described above, but here you need to first lay the waterproofing material. For finishing attic walls, fiberboard sheets have proven themselves very well as insulation. They are quite easy to work with, because... they can be secured with screws or nails.
High-quality insulation of the attic of a house, done by yourself, can significantly reduce heating costs, create a favorable microclimate in the house and increase the service life of structural elements.
Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands (photos and videos)
Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in different ways depending on the characteristics of the house and the configuration of the roof. To ensure high-quality insulation, you need to choose the right material.
How to properly and with what to insulate an attic roof
The roof is one of the most important structural elements of a building. It is exposed to a variety of environmental factors. Protects the house from high and low temperatures, precipitation, solar radiation. If the roof is not insulated in accordance with building codes, heat loss through the roof can reach a third of the total heat loss of the house. Insulating an attic roof is not as simple a process as it might seem, although it can be done with your own hands. If your home has attic floor, the question will inevitably arise of how to insulate an attic roof. Many owners prefer to make an additional room there. Firstly, it increases the total living space of the house. And secondly, a new original premises appears. When constructing modern cottage villages, attic spaces are planned initially. But even in old houses, you can easily convert the attic into a living space with your own hands.
The insulating material used for the attic roof, in addition to preserving heat in the house, protects against acoustic vibrations. Therefore, it is important to decide how best to insulate the attic roof.
Do-it-yourself attic insulation
First you need to decide how to insulate the roof of your attic. Today there are many options for thermal insulation materials. They are easy to install yourself.
There are many nuances in installing the roof itself. The walls of the attic space are either the gables of the building or the roof slopes, or are adjacent to the slopes. This is why intense air movement begins through the roof. Because of this, it is constantly exposed to temperature changes. To avoid the above problem, insulation of the attic must be done in sequence (from the inner layer to the outer layer):
Attic insulation scheme
- Vapor barrier layer.
- Thermal insulating layer.
- Ventilation gap.
- Waterproofing layer.
- Directly roofing material.
If high-quality insulation of the attic roof is carried out, then the absence of the above layers is not recommended. It is especially worth noting the roles of the heat-insulating layer and the ventilation gap. It is thanks to the presence of all the layers that the microclimate in the attic is ensured.
What to look for when choosing insulation
When choosing insulation, you should first look at the thermal conductivity. This is the ability to transfer and absorb heat between the attic space and the surrounding air. A material with low thermal conductivity is desirable. Firstly, this will help better protect the house from heat leaks. And secondly, you will need a thin layer of heat-insulating material.
Properly insulated attic
On the other hand, if the attic roof is insufficiently insulated, problems begin in winter. During the winter months the roof is covered with a layer of snow. Snow is a good additional heat-insulating layer. But with insufficient insulation with your own hands, heat is lost through the roof. The snow is gradually melting. A layer of ice forms. Ice cannot retain heat. It has a mechanical effect on structures. Including the outer roof covering. This leads to its wear and gradual destruction. Sometimes, because of this, it is necessary to repair the outer roofing layer after each winter. With sufficient thermal insulation, snow does not melt in winter and does not turn into ice. The roof retains its structure, and the snow provides additional protection against heat loss. In summer the situation is reversed. When exposed to direct solar radiation, the roof tends to heat up and creates a suffocating atmosphere. If you lay a sufficient layer of insulation, this problem will not exist and a comfortable environment will be provided in the attic.
Main characteristics of insulation
When deciding how to insulate the attic roof of a house from the inside, in addition to thermal conductivity, you need to pay attention to several more important parameters of the insulating material. The most important characteristics:
- water resistance;
- weight;
- fire safety;
- durability;
- material thickness;
- environmental characteristics;
- service life.
Resistance to moisture is usually specified by the manufacturer of a particular material. Is important parameter, since the roof can leak and get wet. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a material with water-repellent properties. If this is not available for one reason or another, then the layer will have to be additionally waterproofed. Also has great importance weight of material. The smaller it is, the better. The total weight of the material is determined based on its relative density. Mineral wool materials should have a density of 45 to 50 kg/cubic meter. When using fiberglass, the density should be within 20 kg/m3. More heavy materials will place excessive pressure on the structure.
Insulating layers must be non-flammable. This is usually reflected in the technical documentation. As for durability, the ability of insulation to retain its shape for many years is important. After all, the roof can be multi-slope. If the insulation is deformed, the roof will simply lose its protective properties.
What materials are popular?
It is necessary to disassemble each one separately to decide how to properly insulate the attic roof. Basic materials:
- Styrofoam;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polyurethane foam;
- mineral wool;
- glass wool
The best way to insulate an attic roof is up to you to decide. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with each material.
Insulating the attic with foam plastic
Styrofoam- this is a popular material among people who are faced with the problem of how to properly insulate an attic roof. It has suitable thermal conductivity, low density and, accordingly, low weight. Polystyrene foam provides good protection from water and is quite inexpensive. On the other hand, it has certain disadvantages. Its main disadvantage is insufficient fire safety. Also, when installing it yourself, it often crumbles. As a result, gaps appear between the rafters. This in turn leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the coating. Foam plastic also has a short service life.
Insulation of the attic with extruded polystyrene foam
Has the best characteristics. Firstly, it is non-flammable and provides the necessary fire safety. Doesn't crumble over time. Has water-repellent properties. Another advantage is that a very thin layer of material is required. The material is not recommended for insulation of residential premises.
Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam differs from previous options in the way of installation. Thanks to this, there are no gaps left. The material retains its shape perfectly. It has the necessary fire safety and repels moisture. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its poor ability to pass vapors. Because of this, there may be high humidity in the attic space. The problem can be solved by organizing adequate ventilation.
Mineral wool and glass wool widely known as insulating materials. They have many advantages. Excellent fire safety, retain heat well, have low density. They do not leave cracks or gaps during installation. The material provides excellent sound insulation and has a low price. The disadvantages include high moisture absorption and vapor absorption.
Laying insulating material
When insulating the attic, do not forget about hydro- and vapor barrier
After selecting the material, it is necessary to prepare the room for installation. Insulation of the attic roof begins with determining the step of laying the insulation. We must try to ensure that the insulation sheets fit tightly between the roof rafters. This will avoid the formation of gaps and further heat loss. If you use foam, then this nuance does not matter to you. The waterproofing is laid overlapped between the rafters and the sheathing. Wooden panels are then installed using screws to provide ventilation. The insulating material itself is mounted directly on the created platform between the rafters.
This will be useful when attaching various structures in the attic.
Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside: analysis of technology
How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside of a room. What is the most efficient way to insulate? We make a choice and follow the simple step-by-step methodology thermal insulation.
Construction of houses
Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if you install skylights. Almost all new country houses They were originally built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remodeled by compassionate owners, insulated, heated and furnished. To keep the attic warm and dry in the winter, cool in the summer and the materials last a long time, you need to understand the very essence of the attic floor insulation technology and understand the processes occurring in it. It is not difficult to insulate an attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything correctly, then the thermal insulation material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet or rot, and as a result, there will be no need for immediate major repairs.
Why is attic roof insulation necessary?
The attic is a special room, its walls are almost tightly drawn to the surface of the roof and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10 - 15 cm. That is why the attic quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire roof area acts as a storage unit for solar heat in the summer, and most of the heat escapes through it in the winter. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made and ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises, spreads under the roof arch and safely evaporates, since the roofing material has high thermal conductivity. The snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in the summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result even the air becomes hot and stale. Even two air conditioners cannot cope with this problem.
In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is completely different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in attic. Loose-fill thermal insulation materials on the attic floor plus air trapped in the attic perfectly hold back the heat coming from the heated living space. As a result, even in the harshest winters, the temperature in the attic does not drop below 0°C - -2°C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be regulated by opening and closing the windows in the gables; in fact, this is real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating of the structural elements of the roof.
What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room by choosing the right material, its thickness, installation location and following the technology. For example, if you use insulation of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to re-cover the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will allow you to completely isolate the attic space from the roof, and proper ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensation from the under-roof space. But first things first.
Materials for insulating an attic roof
Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulating an attic roof is a very important task. The type of insulation determines how thick the insulation “pie” will be and the number of layers in it. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be used, certain requirements are imposed on it:
- Low thermal conductivity. It is advisable to take material with a coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K.
- Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material must be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed to prevent it from getting wet.
- The low weight of the insulation is extremely important so as not to overload the roof structure. The weight of a material can be determined by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45–50 kg/m3, and fiberglass insulation with a density of 14 kg/m3. Heavier slab options (200 kg/m2) are not suitable.
- Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn and does not support combustion.
- Ability to keep in shape. Since the place where the insulation is laid is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, over time the light roll material based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and size for a long time.
- Resistance to severe frosts, temperature changes and the ability to withstand numerous changes in defrosting/freezing cycles.
- Durability.
The thickness of the attic insulation is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a special online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the insulation of the walls, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat loss, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you select “by eye”, then in most cases a 250 mm layer of mineral wool is sufficient.
Let's consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate attic roofs.
Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating an attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool fits perfectly into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn or support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. Slab positions basalt wool keep their shape perfectly. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any wool, so waterproofing is required on the roof side and vapor barrier on the living room side, since mineral wool also absorbs steam well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and requires its complete replacement. In addition, over time it cakes and crumbles and does not withstand mechanical loads well.
However, mineral wool remains one of the most the best materials for insulating an attic roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and compliance the right technology will help mitigate its shortcomings. For different regions the thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for middle zone RF is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.
Expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, which is used to insulate everything, both what is possible and what is not. Against the backdrop of seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape - foam plastic has significant drawbacks. Firstly, different brands of expanded polystyrene have different degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason they use flammable foam G3 - G4 for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upward; if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be impossible to survive in it. Secondly, working with polystyrene foam is not very convenient, since it crumbles when cut and installed, leaving gaps between the rafters that have to be sealed in all sorts of cunning ways. Thirdly, foam plastic begins to crumble and collapse over time. Considering all the shortcomings, it is not worth doing insulation of the attic roof with polystyrene foam. This material can only be used in areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.
Extruded polystyrene foam– an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is quite durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, and holds its shape perfectly. And what is important is that a very small layer of it is required, from 50 to 100 mm.
Polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown in using a special installation, without leaving the slightest cracks or gaps. This is an undeniable plus, especially since with such spraying it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and holds its shape perfectly. But it has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically doesn’t “breathe” at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly humid if forced ventilation is not installed.
Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate an attic roof. It also blows into all the cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, “breathes” and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or random particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.
When choosing insulation for an attic roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the purely design features of its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the insulation “pie” and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If you spray polyurethane foam into the space between the rafters, the rafters become practically inaccessible for inspection. So you need to treat everything wisely.
How to properly insulate an attic roof from the inside
The most common way to insulate an attic is from the inside, if space allows or there are no other contraindications. For this purpose, insulation materials based on mineral wool, glass wool and, less commonly, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Even less often they blow out polyurethane foam or ecowool.
Scheme for insulating an attic roof from the inside
Compliance with the correct “pie” of insulation of the attic roof is the key to the durability of the materials and the comfort of living in the attic room.
Pie of insulation of the attic roof (from the inside out):
- Finishing material.
- Vapor barrier membrane.
- Insulation – mineral wool or glass wool.
- A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not let moisture in.
- Ventilation gap with sheathing.
- Roofing material.
Vapor barrier film must be used if cotton wool materials are used as insulation. This way, mineral wool can be protected from damp vapors in the living room. If polyurethane foam or ecowool is used instead of mineral wool, then a vapor barrier is not needed.
Waterproofing needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect the wooden elements of the roof structure. As waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes that can release steam outside and prevent moisture from entering. A ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm thick is required between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, depending on the type of roof. Excess steam from the insulation will escape through it.
Laying insulation between the rafters of the attic roof
It is better to insulate the attic roof from the inside during the construction stage of the house. Then all stages of work will be completed correctly. Before starting insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, we draw a drawing of the attic with exact dimensions and mark where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope right up to the ceiling, then it is necessary to insulate the entire roof slope. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. There will be free space below between the slope and the interior decoration, then the insulation will have to be done strictly according to the drawn diagram, leaving free space for ventilation. But then in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling.
Let's consider the option of insulating the entire roof slope:
- Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread loosely so that it does not tear when frost sets in. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then you can use galvanized nails with a wide head.
- We nail a sheathing of wooden blocks on top. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We secure the sheathing with corrosion-resistant screws. To avoid damaging the film again, we make holes in the bars in advance.
Important! For greater reliability, you can do two ventilation gap a: between insulation and waterproofing, between waterproofing and roofing. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.
- We lay roofing material on the sheathing - tiles, corrugated sheets, slate, metal tiles. To install a soft roof, you first need to nail the sheathing on top chipboard sheets or moisture-resistant plywood, which will serve as a base for fastening.
- The work is moving inside the attic space. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten out. Cut into required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm greater than the distance between the rafters so that the canvases are held “at odds”.
- We push the insulation sheets into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The thickness of the rafters should be 200 - 250 mm.
Important! It is convenient to select the pitch between the rafters according to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold in a width of 1200 mm. The step can be 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.
- We lay a vapor barrier material on top of the insulation with an overlap of 10 cm, and seal the joints with tape. We fix it to the rafters with staples or using lathing.
- We fill the lathing with 25 mm thick slats.
- We attach the finishing material to the slats.
If you are planning to insulate an attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. Waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping it around the rafters and leading into the space between them. But in this case, wooden rafters are left unprotected in case of leaks.
Laying insulation under the rafters of an attic roof
A slightly less common method of insulation is used when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that this way you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. In this way, a tight fit of the thermal insulation material will ensure that there are no gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. A very good solution if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.
Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:
- We nail a waterproofing membrane onto the rafters from the inside.
- We attach plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that with their U-shaped holes they look at each other.
- We put insulation into the hangers. We cut the canvas with a slight overlap to prevent the appearance of cracks. The result should be a continuous sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are located.
- We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and secure it with staples.
- We stuff the sheathing for finishing material. For fastening, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to pierce the insulation and reach the rafters.
In principle, this method can be combined with laying insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will cover everything, including cold bridges.
How to insulate an attic roof from the outside
It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only at the construction stage or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also many design solutions suggest the use of rafters as decorative elements of the setting.
External attic roof insulation technology
Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, so it does not require vapor barrier. The “pie” of Penoplex insulation will look like this:
- Extruded polystyrene foam boards.
- Waterproofing membrane.
- Ventilation gap with sheathing.
- Roofing material.
An undeniable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.
Laying insulation on the rafters of an attic roof
Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam over the rafters allows you to create a continuous thermal insulation layer without cold bridges.
- To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, we nail a board at the very bottom to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
- We spread the insulation boards in a checkerboard pattern. You need to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
- We fix them to the rafters using special dowels with a mushroom cap.
- We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, seal the joints with tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
- We fill the sheathing with bars at least 40 mm thick.
- We install roofing material.
No additional protection extruded polystyrene foam is not required from the inside.
It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire façade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if insulation is carried out using a system curtain façade, then you can use mineral wool with vapor barrier and waterproofing films. And if a wet facade is planned, then foam plastic can be laid under it. Do not forget that adherence to technology is the key to success.
Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof, Construction portal
Construction of houses Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip a residential attic in their home. This makes it possible to expand the living space and
Internal insulation of an attic is one of the most difficult construction tasks. And all because the result is important here: how the roofing pie will behave in winter, whether there will be any leaks, whether there will be a smell of dampness, and whether it will all have to be dismantled later. Why such difficulties? The fact is that no matter how carefully the budget for building a house is planned, as a rule, it is still not enough for everything. To the point that even the owners of the future family home decide to buy laminate flooring cheaper - just to finish the repairs and just start living. And the most popular expense item, which is immediately cut as soon as the lack of funds becomes clear, is attic insulation. “Later, in the future,” the owners promise themselves, especially since insulating the attic from the inside is not a problem at all, and you can start it at any time, even in winter.
In fact, there are a lot of subtleties and nuances here, and therefore, if you have already taken up this matter, carefully study this article. And everything will work out!
Why do problems arise?
There are statistics: up to 30% of attics have to be remodeled after the first winter. The roof covering, interior trim and films are removed, and the insulation is dried. In this case, a lot of materials have to be thrown away, and this is another unplanned expense. Even if you hired a professional team of builders, this is not a guarantee of the well-being of the future attic, especially if the roofing cake is thought out without taking into account the peculiarities of the local climate.
Why is this happening? So, in Russia there is dampness, cold and 24-hour negative temperatures- Not unusual. And the lower the ambient temperature, the greater the volume of steam that penetrates through the vapor barrier - all due to an increase in the partial pressure difference. And at the same time, the migration of moisture through the cold membrane slows down significantly, although it does not stop. Bottom line: the situation is even worse than under standard tested conditions. And therefore, you cannot test the vapor permeability of a roofing pie in European conditions and expect the same good result in the Siberian regions.
Here's a simple illustration to help you understand what we're talking about here:
Note that the maximum water vapor pressure on the roofing pie is in the residential attic. And it’s not even that there are people in such a room much more often than in an ordinary cold attic - it’s just that the pressure of warm air is additionally added to the steam pressure. Moreover, these processes are so obvious that they can be observed in the form of real leaks!
The fact is that wet insulation loses its properties very quickly. And the more humid the air that reaches it, the faster the thermal insulation decreases. For example, basalt insulation with a humidity of only 5% already loses its heat by 20% than dry insulation.
For example, just one cubic meter of air space, if its relative humidity is 100%, at a temperature of 20C contains 17.3 grams of water - simply in the form of steam. And the lower the temperature, the more difficult it is for air to hold water in a bound state. And when the temperature drops to 16C, there will be only 13.6 grams of water vapor in the same air, and the rest will settle as water in the insulation. Let us conclude: moisture in the insulation appears due to the condensation of excess water vapor from the air as the temperature decreases. And it must be actively fought. And this is far from the only problem - now we will deal with them all.
Let's start insulation - work technology
Let's start with the first problem - insufficient thickness of the joists if you insulate the attic after the construction of the entire house and installation of the roofing. Why is that? Let's take a closer look at this issue.
Thus, attic insulation can be divided into basic and additional. Basic is insulation, which is carried out during the construction of the roof of the house and involves the use of lightweight insulation directly in truss structure. And here additional insulation is already turning an uninhabited attic into a full-fledged attic.
With basic insulation, the main task is to minimize the heat loss of the house through the roof, and such basic insulation can easily replace additional internal insulation, if only you choose the insulation wisely, do not skimp on its thickness and think through the rafter system well. That's what those builders often do own home who understand that 20 rooms may not be enough in the future, and additional space for a billiard room, library or sauna cannot be a problem. And therefore, it is better to initially build it completely residential, and not finish something later.
But, if during the construction of your house you decided to make do with basic thermal insulation and now you have enthusiastically taken up the task of arranging a habitable and cozy attic, then the only option for you is additional internal insulation with all its nuances, the main one of which is the insufficient thickness of the rafters, which were not originally designed for dense internal insulation. But the problem is completely solvable, as proof of which we have prepared for you detailed master class:
Now let’s move on to more insidious aspects that are no less important: proper vapor barrier and waterproofing, which you may have to redo.
No - dampness and smudges!
For any insulation, it is extremely important to create the right conditions, otherwise the material will quickly become damp and, instead of a source of heat, become a source of dampness, mold and cold. What are these conditions? Let's take a closer look!
What is dew point?
The first and most important quality of any insulation is low thermal conductivity. Thanks to it, the insulating layer strictly separates the warm air inside from the cold outside. It would seem that they inserted insulation into the rafters, secured it - and that’s all that else is needed? Not so!
Firstly, from the outside, the whole thing must be carefully waterproofed from rain and damp air, because... In this regard, such a roofing pie is a real sponge. Secondly, any insulation also has a second quality - vapor permeability, i.e. "breathes". Now let’s remember physics: the warm, humid air inside the room under the roof (always humid!), without finding an obstacle, easily passes inside the insulation and collides with its colder part, the one that is closer to the roofing pie. And there this air condenses, settling in the form of droplets, which is called the dew point. What's the point of external waterproofing then? Mineral wool insulation is especially susceptible to this phenomenon, note.
Therefore, our first task is to ensure that as little steam as possible passes through the insulation, because even super-diffuse membranes in the cold do a poor job of removing water vapor, due to a significant slowdown in moisture transfer processes. And this is already a question proper vapor barrier attic insulation.
Here is a clear example of the unpleasant consequences of ignoring the concept of dew point:
Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts
In fact, in Western Europe, where winters have always been mild, there is no need for vapor barriers with special properties - simple packaging films are quite suitable. So they sometimes end up in Russia, although their vapor barrier properties are not high. These are LDPE roll films, which stands for “low density polyethylene”. In such films, uneven thickness and microdefects are noticeable. Their main purpose is product packaging.
Little better are reinforced materials, which are made by hot pressing a film onto a mesh of twisted thread. In production, such films are injured by mesh nodes, and as a result, the low vapor barrier properties are further reduced. Although the film itself turns out to be much stronger than usual, of course.
More reliable are bag fabrics made from polypropylene threads and spunbonds. The former are additionally laminated with molten PEPN, but a uniform and continuous film is still not obtained, although the strength is pleasing. And the latter are made from non-woven polypropylene fiber, but its vapor permeability is still in the range of 15-25 g/m2 per day, and this is a very low figure.
And aluminum foil boasts the best vapor barrier properties, which is even suitable for arranging steam rooms in which the pressure and volume of water vapor are the highest. The only point: such a vapor barrier additionally creates the effect of a thermos in the attic, simultaneously reflecting invisible heat rays back into the room. That’s why it’s better not to insulate a small attic room this way, but for a spacious one it’s just the same.
Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or you are planning to make a good sauna in the attic, then you need the following vapor barrier:
Or immediately purchase insulation with an aluminum side:
We close access to water vapor
But remember that it is still important to properly lay and waterproof a good vapor barrier film, otherwise water vapor will still find its way in.
The joints of vapor barrier sheets are usually sealed with a special adhesive tape made of butyl rubber, but even in this case complete tightness cannot be guaranteed. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the sticky layer decreases, and with additional load the canvases come unglued. That's why when installing exterior finishing, when it is possible to attach the same drywall directly to a vapor barrier, many people install additional sheathing. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but rather to press the tape or sealant with the slats.
In addition, this lathing (usually with slats up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows for installation electrical wires directly under the sheathing, and not through the insulation, as many do and which can hardly be called a technically competent solution.
But the places where the vapor barrier adjoins passing pipes and brick walls must be insulated with special sealants or tapes.
Another important point: never tighten the vapor barrier - fasten it with a small margin. The fact is that all wooden structures, which is what the rafter system is, naturally dry out and become slightly smaller in size. The frame itself becomes mobile, and there is a risk of ruptures under the roof outside and under the sheathing inside. And then - surprise!
Does external waterproofing “breathe”?
So, on the warm inner side of the insulation we install a vapor barrier, which does not allow moist air to enter from the room. And on the outer, colder side we are already attaching waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.
And the further development of events depends on how “breathable” the top waterproofing film turns out to be. So, if you purchased the most ordinary roll of inexpensive waterproofing, things are bad, the moisture from the roofing cake will evaporate for a long time and difficultly, as a result - dampness and gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are called “smart” for a reason: they do not let moisture in, but remove water vapor out. It's all about their unusual, well-thought-out structure. This is why it turns out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are not far off.
Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like with a regular film. Otherwise, the membrane material will cool more strongly, and the temperature will become lower than the steam migrating through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice directly on the membrane, which will cause it to lose its vapor-permeable properties even more.
When do you have to dismantle the roof?
Quite often, during the construction process, roofing felt or roofing material is installed as roof waterproofing. reinforced films. And after a couple of years, when the attic turned out to be very necessary and everyone at home enthusiastically began to repair it, it turns out that without a complete dismantling of the roof, nothing will work out.
What's the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely bend. That’s why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are thinking about putting off insulating the attic for the future, immediately use a good super-diffuse membrane as waterproofing.
But how can something get into the insulation if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of retaining water vapor 100% - they are very small. And no matter how hard manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films actually don’t even do their job halfway, and only the highest quality ones are capable of retaining steam by 75-80%. Everything else, unfortunately, penetrates inside the roofing pie.
Let's sum it up ogi. You should end up with a roofing pie with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam into the insulation, and the second one saves it from a small amount that accidentally gets there.
Insulation of complex structural elements
If you have decided on insulation and insulation materials, congratulations! Prepare everything carefully, calculate everything you need and feel free to proceed. The main thing is to carry out installation work only in a well-ventilated area. And finally, when working with modern insulation materials Many manufacturers advise using a vacuum cleaner before insulating the attic roof from the inside, and after finishing.
Insulating pitched and straight attic walls is not difficult, and the first difficulty you will encounter is windows and other complex structural elements. It is also important to properly insulate them, leaving no chance for moisture or water vapor to leak through. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in attic rooms that cause mold and smudges? So take this issue seriously:
Here is another tricky moment when the attic ceiling is not made of logs, but a solid slab. You need to insulate it like this:
And finally, after insulating the attic, make sure that snow does not accumulate later in the drains and on the ridge - the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. To do this, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire roof ridge, and make the ridge itself unventilated. That's all the difficulties!
Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space by adding an attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.
Peculiarities
The process of insulating an attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roof structure, as well as understand whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic space, especially if the roof is already covered.
There are three situations in which the roof can be constructed:
- There is only a ventilation gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this case, the roof is considered completely unsuitable for insulation. Will have to completely disassemble roof structure to insulate it.
- A polyethylene film is laid between the sheathing and the rafters, acting as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof can be considered fully prepared for subsequent insulation work.
- A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the sheathing. Option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.
Thus, main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.
Insulation materials
Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, summer house, or cottage can be done using various means. There are liquid materials, elastic ones, and even those that have a relatively high density.
Before you start making your choice, be sure to pay attention to the roof structure. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it is better to be safe. The simplest example– insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any insulation is suitable for a simple gable structure, then not all of them are suitable for a broken one.
If we do not consider liquid insulation, the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, the slabs contain dense insulation, while the rolls contain fibrous insulation.
It should be noted that Not all options available on the market are suitable for insulation from the inside.. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need to level cold bridges.
Materials for internal thermal insulation should be considered in more detail.
Styrofoam
Ordinary polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made slabs, which makes it easy to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is a budget thermal insulation solution, it has many advantages.
So, polystyrene foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it special means , which will clog the pores on the surface, and water will simply flow down the foam boards.
It should also be borne in mind that polystyrene foam has a very low weight due to the presence of a large number of voids between the granules that make it up. This makes it possible to handle the insulation work alone. Lightness has the further advantage of easing the load on the roof structure.
Polystyrene foam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the desired size, with an ordinary stationery knife.
However, there are also some disadvantages. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, polystyrene foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Third, cannot be decorated with polystyrene foam wooden floors, since over time the wood will shrink and gaps will appear between the foam boards.
How to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam is described in the following video.
Penoizol
Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of polystyrene foam. The insulating solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other installation compositions, for example, polyurethane foam, is that during the hardening process it does not expand, maintaining its original appearance and condition.
The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.
Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be used after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.
The vapor permeability of the material, like that of its dense counterpart, is almost zero, which makes it imperative to take care of adequate roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, so it copes with its main function – thermal insulation – perfectly. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation using foam insulation will be a worthy and budget solution.
Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex
Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of installation. So, polystyrene foam covers the rafters, which results in better tightness. Expanded polystyrene boards are easily fixed to each other using glue. Due to its low weight, installation can be done independently.
The material has a long service life, but it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of the electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.
If no communications are planned for the attic, expanded polystyrene will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal, and any roofing coverings.
Minvata
Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to penoplex. This material is a roll material, which is due to the ease of installation of heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which fundamentally affects some of its properties.
So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. Wherein additional fastenings will not be required it is enough to just cut the wool slabs 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.
Rodents do not attack cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulating layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly insulation. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. It is also better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from surrounding street noise.
Read more about insulating the attic with mineral wool in the next video.
Glass wool
Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but the difference is obvious. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. Fiberglass is used here. Thanks to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has better noise-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its performance properties.
Many people are afraid that using glass wool in thermal insulation purposes within a residential area will lead to detrimental consequences. Actually this is not true. If all finishing work is carried out correctly, then no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than penoplex because it does not burn.
However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.
Stone wool
Among all insulating wools, stone wool is more expensive than its analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it itself is safe and practically devoid of the disadvantages inherent in other samples. She is the most environmentally friendly of all, she is not afraid elevated temperatures, since it does not ignite and also does not deform under the influence of heat.
Stone wool perfectly blocks all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other wools. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.
Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if you squeeze it, it does not deform.
Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs that can be easily cut into desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.
Ecowool
Ecowool is very different from other wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed and then applied by spreading the material using special equipment. It is believed that this way it will better seal all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.
There are two disadvantages here. Firstly, you need to apply ecowool using special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material cannot be called affordable either.
Polyurethane foam
Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.
To avoid unprofitable purchase expenses, it is easier to lease equipment - rent it.
The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, so when working with the material it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.
Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam because it has a similar operating principle. It expands in the same way when it hardens, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro- and vapor barrier layers.
All this makes polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roofing and ceilings are made of. The optimal solution when working with it is to invite a team of specialists who will complete the installation in a few hours using their own equipment, doing everything in compliance with technology.
Penofol
Penofol is the only foil insulation of its kind. It is produced in the form of slabs of polyethylene foam, coated with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat, returning it back into the room, so heat loss is minimized.
However, it is important to ensure that when laying, the foil side is facing inward and not outward.
Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Thanks to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to claim excellent thermal insulation properties material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since correct installation it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself thanks to its special texture.
If you plan to use the attic for permanent residence, then by choosing penofol, you will not regret it.
Preparing the premises
Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check whether the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the entire attic area. If not, then there’s no point in insulating it – you won’t be able to live here anyway.
Next, remove all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. The insulation will be installed either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that a roof with leaks must first be corrected, and only after that can you proceed to insulation work.
It is important that they are in good condition and have no cracks other than for ventilation.
Vapor barrier
When creating an attic floor for winter living, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first thing you need to do is check for a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is installed, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as a additional room. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling the roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.
Various materials can be used to create a vapor barrier. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific combinations with insulating materials. All this must be kept in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.
In addition, this will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier layer.
Polyethylene film
Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly do not recommend using it. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not “breathe” at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. Thus, condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, ends up on the thermal insulation.
Therefore, if your home has a vapor barrier made using polyethylene film, avoid purchasing water-absorbing insulation materials, such as glass wool.
Over time, the film tends to deteriorate and crack, so after a short period of time you will still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.
Glassine
Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, which is why it has received universal recognition. However, we will have to act in two directions here. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this will guarantee reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. On top, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid. Only then can the optimal effect be achieved.
Glassine is mostly needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any material can be chosen as an insulating material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not susceptible to rodent attacks. Both cotton wool and penoplex options are perfect.
Ruberoid
Ruberoid has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nevertheless, If possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that roofing felt is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for waterproofing and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.
If you decide to leave the roofing material, then you shouldn’t expect good results from it. vapor barrier qualities. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same plastic film.
It is worth keeping in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing felt on the inside, which will lead to the insulation getting wet. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in the winter, and in the spring it is planned to redo everything), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing felt.
Izospan
The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barriers due to the fact that it was developed only for these purposes.
Izospan collects condensation and subsequently prevents it from getting on the insulation. The double-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On one side it is smooth, and on the other it is a little rough. On the rough side, condensate droplets are retained and evaporate. With the help of isospan, not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic are vapor-insulated.
Depending on the properties of isospan, the labeling varies. The most expensive, but also materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensation from rolling off and damaging the insulation.
Waterproofing membrane
You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, and not from steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications: from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.
Waterproofing membranes are issued in different types. There are diffusion, super-diffusion, and also anti-condensation, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find one of these membranes after disassembling the cladding material, consider yourself very lucky.
You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its quality. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.
Penofol
Penofol is both insulating and vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and rafters.
The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side should be well protected from moisture. Only in this case will the variety cope with both steam and thermal insulation.
Material consumption
The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to take into account the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the internal space. The number and thickness of the slabs depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the slabs depends on the distance between the rafters.
Please note that if the pitch between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then you will need to prepare additional sheathing yourself to make fixing the thermal insulation possible.
As for sprayed insulation, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. You will first need to clarify such data as the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.
Insulation scheme
Since when insulating an attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the layering scheme only for it.
If you start from the outside, the pie will look like this:
- There is roofing material on top that is not touched. Underneath it there is a sheathing and a counter-lattice, which serve as a frame.
- Next comes a layer of hydro- and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
- A layer of insulation is laid under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, additional sheathing can be constructed here.
- A vapor barrier layer is attached to the side of the room, protecting the insulation.
- Finally, finishing is done.
How to insulate with your own hands?
To insulate an attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the plan for placing the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:
- It is necessary to retreat slightly from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to “breathe”.
- After this, the insulation is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, or sprayed. How something should be handled insulation material, it is written in the instructions for it.
- Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor should be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that faces the insulation, but this should not happen.
- On last stage produced finishing. You can choose from many options, but usually purchase drywall, lining or MDF boards.
- It is better to buy cotton insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they will not require time to “track”;
- to insulate the floor you need to choose polystyrene foam or other inexpensive material;
- the insulation does not require additional fastening, but if necessary, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.
