When people think of Viking Age weapons, they usually think of an axe, and the image that forms in their minds is of a huge weapon that could only be wielded by a large and strong man. In reality, axes in the Viking Age were light, fast and well-balanced, and were good for quick, precise, deadly attacks, as well as a variety of clever moves. The battle ax was used by the poorest people during the Viking Age. In general, the ax was used in the household, but in the event of any military operations, the ax was a wonderful weapon for the Vikings.

Let's take a break from history and get down to business. If you are a big fan of Viking Age weapons or just liked the shape of this tool, then we will tell you how to make a Viking ax from an ordinary ax. This tool is very elegant and functional. The ax has a unique shape due to which this tool was first used as a carpenter's tool.

They used such an ax to build their own boats (drakkars). And then, on these boats they set sail and attacked their enemies, killed them and plundered settlements. Now, in peacetime, there is no such need, and such an ax can be made as a decorative element in your country house. We find an old ax in the barn and set out to give it a new life.

Making a Viking battle ax

All we need to make this ancient fighting tool is an old ax and a new handle. To make an ax, it is advisable to take a whole ax that has not burst, in order to bypass all the intricacies of welding cracks. I think that every household has an old grandfather’s ax of the same quality. If there is no such goodness, then you can always buy it at any metal collection point for three kopecks. To make a Viking ax with your own hands from an old ax we will need:

• The old ax itself.
• Material for making the handle.
• Pencil or marker.
• Corner Grinder(Bulgarian).
• Varnish and brush.

If you want to make an elegant wooden handle, then you will also need to find or come up with some kind of ornament, apply it to the wooden handle, and cut it out with a drill, or sweat and cut it out with a chisel.

Let's move on directly to the step-by-step instructions for making a Viking ax with your own hands.

STEP 1: old axe. We find an old ax and bring it to life. The first step is to knock the old handle off the axe. In most cases this does not bring special effort– over the years, the tree dries out, and the handle itself falls off the ax. Now you need to clean the ax itself from centuries-old rust. To clean an old ax from rough rust, we need an angle grinder with a cleaning wheel. We fix it in a vice, go through all the surfaces of the ax, and determine the integrity of the metal. If suspicious cracks were found on it, then they must be welded (or find a whole ax) because in the future our Viking ax may simply burst in that place. After welding, it is necessary to clean all welded seams to zero.

Removing the handle
Cleaning the ax

STEP 2: marking the ax. To do exact copy axes of that time, we need to change geometric shape the entire instrument. To make sure we don’t make a mistake with the shape of the future axe, we find a sketch of a Viking ax on the Internet, and from this image we begin to reproduce everything in real time. First of all, mark the heel of the ax. You can use a regular metal lid as a template or sketch an ax on paper. We fit it to the heel of the ax, as shown in the photo, mark the boundaries we need with a marker, and cut it. We put a cutting wheel on our grinder and cut out the unnecessary part of the old ax. We go through all the uneven places with a cleaning circle.

Ax marking
Making a new ax shape

STEP 3: hardening the ax. After giving the Viking battle ax the required shape, we harden the tip. The ax needs to be heated until red hot and lowered into machine oil. The procedure should be repeated several times to consolidate the final result. Hardening of metal is carried out to give the metal increased hardness and reduced ductility.

Heat on coals
Drop into oil

STEP 4: low temperature tempering. To relieve the internal stress of the metal, it is necessary to conduct a low-temperature tempering. After this procedure, the fragility of the metal, which is acquired during hardening, is reduced, but the strength of the metal does not change. It is very easy to low-temperature temper a Viking ax from a simple ax at home. To do this, we need to preheat the oven to 200 C and place the ax there for 15-20 minutes. After that, let it cool in the air without using any additional means. After that, we sand the surface of the ax again with sandpaper.

To give an incredible shine to a Viking battle axe, it can be polished on a felt wheel using Goya polishing paste. Before doing this, you need to go through all the sharp corners with a cleaning wheel to avoid damaging the felt element. After this procedure, the ax should shine like new. Polish it until you see yourself clearly reflected in it, otherwise there is no point in starting.

After polishing, you can apply the design to the Viking axe. We are looking for a suitable ornament and trying to recreate it on the axe. To begin with, the surface of the ax needs to be opened with ordinary nail polish. After the varnish has dried, we apply the ornament itself. All boundaries of the design must be scratched down to the metal. We select a container, pour a glass of water into it and throw in a few tablespoons of salt, stir. In order to start etching the metal, we need to apply current.

We use as a current-generating element Charger for a 12 V battery. We make a primitive etching rod from a nail. You need to wrap cotton wool around the end of the nail and secure it with a knitting wire. We hook the negative terminal to the nail. We fix the positive terminal on the Viking ax itself. We insert the charger into the socket, and begin to moisten the cotton wool on the nail in a saline solution and begin to trace it over our drawn ornament.

Applying the ornament
Applying varnish

Etching process
Ready-made ornament

Painted picture, under the influence of hydrochloric acid, begins to darken and bubble. The metal is etched and a small groove is formed. The depth and clarity of the pattern depends on the duration of etching. After all manipulations, the surface of the ax is cleaned and polished.

Making a handle for a Viking battle ax

To make a beautiful and high-quality ax handle, you need to choose the right wood. Basically, oak, acacia, maple, ash, and apple are used as reliable ax handles. But most the best wood considered to be birch. This tree has the most high density, therefore, its service life will be many times longer. To recreate an exact copy, you need to study all the information from those times, and the best way would be to look at photos of Viking axes on the Internet. To avoid the hassle of making a handle from scratch, you can take an old ax handle and give it a new shape.

STEP 1: cleaning the old ax handle. We find a handle that fits the size and begin processing. First you need to decide on the length of the ax handle. Immediately cut off the unnecessary piece of the handle and clean it. Regular sandpaper will do the job just fine! We clean it so that the clear structure of the wood is visible.

STEP 2: new handle shape. To begin with, we draw a sketch of the new handle of our Viking ax from a regular ax. The handle undergoes minimal modifications, so all work should be done with a knife and chisel. If you have a jigsaw, then do perfect pen It won't be difficult for you. The sharp edges of the ax need to be sanded or rubbed with sandpaper.

Before
After

STEP 3: ornament on the handle. To give the handle an elegant look, you can make a design on the wooden base of the axe. We find the desired ornament on the Internet, print it out on A4 sheet, and transfer the design to the ax handle using a pencil. You can cut out the ornament with a chisel, but if you have a small drill with a special attachment for wood, then it is better to do this work with a drill.

STEP 4: open the ax handle. To protect our battle ax from rotting, we need to treat the ax handle protective coating. To completely protect wooden base ax from exposure to moisture - you need to make three protective layers. First you need to treat the handle with drying oil. This layer will protect the handle from moisture. The second layer is stain. This layer will give a rich color to the axe. On top of all this you need to put last layer, namely varnish. The properties of varnish, I think, are clear to everyone.

STEP 5: ax + ax handle. At this stage, you do not need to securely fix the ax to the ax handle. It’s easy to make a Viking ax with your own hands from a simple ax so that it can be used not just as a decoration, but as a working tool. In order not to be afraid to work with such a tool, you need to securely fix the ax to the ax handle. To do this, we need a small piece of gauze and epoxy resin. Dip the gauze in resin and wrap it around the place where the ax will be fixed. We place the ax on the ax handle with gauze. You can also hammer a wooden wedge into the ax handle, which must be coated with the same epoxy resin in advance. It takes at least two days for the epoxy resin to completely cure. After this, you can safely use the tool for its intended purpose.

Hammering the wedge
Finished Viking Ax

The most the last stage The instructions on how to make a Viking ax will include sharpening the tip of the axe. Be careful, because by performing this process you can damage not only the ax, but also your hands. It is best to do this on a special machine. Also, for safe storage of the ax, you can make a cover on the tip. It is best to take a small piece of leather and make a neat case on the base of the ax. You can sew it with nylon threads. That's our step-by-step instruction The process of making a Viking battle ax has been completed.

The ax is actually very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, you should definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain tasks. Professional carpenters usually use several axes at once. Nevertheless, this type the instrument is also necessary for people living outside the city, or simply for city residents who occasionally travel to their summer cottages. After all, the bathhouse needs to be heated with wood, and you can chop it only with an axe. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know all the subtleties of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The ax itself can be completely different in shape. But the ax must be properly mounted, wedged, and sharpened at a certain angle.

Choosing the cutting part of the ax

When you are faced with a choice in the process of purchasing a piercing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be a GOST inscription confirming implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be wary if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.

You can test the quality of an ax the old-fashioned way, by striking the blade of one against the blade of another. If one of the products is made poorly, then it will be on it that marks from the impact will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. He will be characteristic.

Please note that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eye should be cone-shaped; also the eye and blade must be coaxial; and there must also be at least a small thickness of the butt, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.

If you were unable to find a product that meets all standards. You can make a good ax yourself. Even if some misunderstandings are discovered in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the lugs, and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

Select a workpiece. Make an ax handle

Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the axe. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products weighing up to one kg, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms in weight, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

You should approach the question of how to make a wooden ax correctly. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. Most suitable options– the root part of the birch, as well as its growths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and be sure to natural conditions and a considerable time.

You choose a tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thick so that the master can brake with his hand if the ax slips. Excess wood (beyond the contour) should be removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, or other similar tools. After this, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. For fitting, place the ax on the ax handle using a mallet. Make sure that these parts fit very tightly together. After that you can begin further cleaning. To scrape, you should use glass, and to grind, use fine-grained sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is already half the battle. But that's not all.

“Planting” the ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

• The top of the ax is adjusted in accordance with the eye. Unnecessary tree should be removed with a knife.

• The ax handle should be placed horizontally on a flat surface. hard surface, and put an ax on top. On the handle you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be inserted. Having divided the segment in two, you should put a second mark.

• Use a vice to clamp the ax handle so that the wider end is positioned upward. Use a hacksaw to cut to the 2nd mark directly under the wedge.

• The wedge can be from a store, or it can also be made from wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the depth of the cut, and the width is equal to the eye of an ax.

• You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the ax handle, tapping it on the board. Next, you should turn it over and tap it with the handle while inserting it. This should be turned over and tapped several times in a row. As a result, the ax handle should fit into the eyelet.

• After this, the ax handle must be placed vertically, and a wedge must be inserted into the cut and hammered in with a mallet.

• Oil should be applied to the ax handle, the excess will drain off, and the tool will be left to dry. After everything, use a rag to wipe the ax and handle.

In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with the help of which the essence of making the tool will be clearer to you.

Sharpening an ax blade

This issue is very important so that working with the tool does not cause inconvenience and hassle. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at an angle of thirty-five degrees.

Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!

Undoubtedly, people who live in a private home or often go on hikes need such an indispensable tool as an ax. To purchase it, you just need to go to the market.

If you have questions about the quality of the purchased ax, you can make it yourself. Moreover, this can be done very easily if you use the instructions and tips for making it.

Classification of axes

Axes come in the following types:

1. Carpentry. Light, small axes must have a sharp blade. Designed for trimming and precision woodworking.
2. Carpentry universal. Axes of different weights. They don't have a big handle. They are used for imprecise wood processing.
3. Lumberjack's axe. Used for cutting wood, it has a wide blade and a long handle.
4. Ice ax Used in mountaineering. It consists of a spike, a head, a blade and a handle sharpened at the base. Outwardly it looks like a pickaxe.
5. Cleaver. A cone-shaped ax with heavy weight. The shape and weight help to split hard wood.
6. Kuznechny. With such an ax it is possible to chop off metal materials. They apply the ax to the place where they need to chop off and hit the butt with a hammer.
7. Potes. It is used to trim wood. For efficient operation, the ax has a rounded blade.
8. Povarskaya. An ax with a short handle and a heavy, sharp cutting surface.
9. Paznik. Used for cutting grooves using an edge on the blade. The cutting part is perpendicular to the ax handle.
10. Firefighter. An ax with a metal handle that is insulated to withstand a voltage of 1000W. Its peculiarity is that there is a spike on the butt, which is used to cut a passage through the rubble.
11. Assault firefighter. A massive ax with a long handle. In case of fire, it is used to break down heavy structures.
12. Tourist. A small ax with a short shaft. It happens in combination with a knife or saw. For safety, it comes with a cover.
13. Tsalda. The ax blade, shaped like a sickle, is used to clear small bushes from the area.

Self-production

The order of work is as follows:

Work on cutting out an ax handle

Before starting work, it is necessary to make transverse cuts at the top and bottom of the beam. The depth of the cuts should not reach the line of the ax by 2-3 mm. Use a chisel to remove the excess layer of wood. Use a rasp to cut out places where corners and transitions are needed. Finally, the ax handle is sanded using sandpaper.

Choosing the piercing part

You can’t make a metal sheet at home, so you need to know what to look for when choosing it in a construction market:

• ideally, steel should be marked according to GOST;
• the eye should have the shape of a cone;
• the blade should not have dents, bends or nicks;
• If you look at the butt, its ends should be perpendicular to the blade.

Placing an ax on an ax handle

This can be done by performing these simple operations:

1. Transverse and longitudinal cuts are made on the ax handle in the upper part.




2. Cut 5 wedges from hardwood.




3. Gauze soaked in resin is wound over the ax handle to fit more tightly into the eyelet.




4. Hammer the ax handle into the eye of the ax.




5. Drive wedges into the cuts.




6. After drying, the protruding parts of the wedges are cut off.

Blade sharpening

Good functionality of the ax will be ensured correct sharpening blades. Depending on the type of work performed, you should choose the sharpening angle.

For example, a taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 25-30 degrees. If you need to cut fresh wood, you need to sharpen at an angle of 25 degrees.

If used grinding wheel, the butt should be held at an angle of 45 degrees. All movements are performed smoothly, without jerking.

As you can see, having a small set of tools and instructions for making an ax in your arsenal, it is not at all difficult to make it to your size and needs.

Look video instructions for making a taiga ax with your own hands:

The ax is rightfully considered the “king” of carpentry tools. A real carpenter, who is professional in his craft, knows how to make an ax that is ideal for a particular operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready for work. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also ordinary people, living outside the city in private houses, as well as city dwellers who go to their dachas for the summer or on weekends. Every owner has to chop wood to heat a stove in a house or bathhouse. In order for this process to go faster and not cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken ax handle, you need to be able to properly prepare this tool to work and maintain it in “combat readiness” throughout its entire service life. The shape of the ax can be different. It is important to properly mount the ax, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the desired angle.

When purchasing an axe, or rather its piercing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal used to make the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the conformity of the metal state standards and requirements. Be on your guard if this sign is replaced by TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Axes from Soviet times, different high quality metal, can be purchased at a flea market.

The quality of the metal can also be checked experimentally by taking two axes and hitting the blade of one of them with the blade of the other. On less quality product There will be jagged edges after impacts. The quality of the metal is also checked by the characteristic sound that is produced when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be in a suspended state.

You should also pay attention to the following points:

• a well-drawn blade should not have any bends or dents;
• conical shape of the eyelet;
• alignment of the eye and the blade of the ax;
• small thickness of the butt and perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.

Don't be upset if you can't find an ax that meets all the above requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eye and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

Material on how to make a device for carrying firewood will also be useful:

Selecting a workpiece and making an ax handle

The length of the ax is selected based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood also plays an important role. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles from 40 to 60 cm long. For heavy tools (1000-1400 g), the length of the ax varies from 55 to 65 cm.

The force of the blow depends on the length of the axe. The longer the ax handle, the easier it is to chop wooden logs. The strength and height of a person also matters

Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master searches the entire forest before finding a suitable tree. Most often, a blank for an ax handle is made from the root part of a birch, or better yet, from growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by their special curl and very dense wood. Instead of birch, you can use maple, oak, acacia, ash and others deciduous trees hard rocks. The workpieces must be dried well in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.

On the prepared blank, the contours of the future ax handle are outlined according to the selected template. There should be a thickening at the end of the ax handle, designed to “braking” the hand in case the tool slips. Then the excess wood that is outside the contour is removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, a chisel or a jigsaw, which is much faster. After fitting the ax on the ax handle using a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit tightly, you can continue further finishing of the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.

Above is a drawing of an ax handle (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a marching ax handle (b) with an area of ​​unbroken fibers of 40 mm

Important! If the ax easily fits into the eye, this means that the master made an error in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, ensuring a short, tight fit of the ax on the ax handle.

How to attach an ax to a handle?

Below is an operation algorithm showing how to place an ax on a turned and polished ax handle. This is one possible way:

• Customize top part ax handles under the eye of the axe. At the same time, plan off the excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it “sweeps” the wood.
• On the ax handle, placed in a horizontal position on the table, place the ax on top, and with a pencil put a mark on the handle to which it will be mounted. Divide the segment in half and put a second mark.
• Clamp the ax handle vertically in a vice with the wide end at the top. Take a hacksaw and make a cut to the second wedge mark.
• Buy a metal wedge in the store or plan a wooden analogue, the thickness of which should be from 5 to 10 mm. The length of the wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the eye of the ax.
• Place a board on the table and place the ax on it, placing it upside down. Place the ax on the ax handle and start tapping it on the board. Then turn it over and tap the ax handle on the board, while the mounting process continues. Turning and tapping must be done several times. As a result, the ax handle will fit into the eyelet.
• Next, place the ax handle vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, driving it with a mallet halfway or almost to the end. Using a hacksaw, cut off everything that remains sticking out from above.
• Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the ax handle, let the excess drain off and leave to dry. Wipe the ax and handle with a rag.

After fitting the ax to the ax handle, shown in figure (a), make its attachment (b) and wedging the handle (c): 1 - axe, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

How and at what angle is an ax blade sharpened?

To prevent the tool from causing trouble, you need to properly sharpen the ax blade. According to GOST requirements, the sharpening angle of a construction ax should be 20-30°. Carpentry tools are sharpened at a slightly larger angle of 35°. The recommended angles must be maintained, as thinner blades will get stuck in the wood. You will have to put in extra effort to pull them out. On knots, a thin blade can easily bend. The blade, sharpened at an angle of 35°, breaks the chips being separated from the main log and does not get stuck in the wood.

First, a “rough” primary sharpening of the ax is performed, during which it is possible to eliminate all chips, minor damage and large gouges with a rotating sharpening wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the roughly sharpened blade is subjected to a “finish” sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained stone, which removes all burrs.

Three ways to sharpen an ax blade: a) sharpening wheel; b) a block, moistened with water; c) straightening with a whetstone moistened with machine oil

Important! The shine of the ax blade and the absence of burrs on the cutting edge indicate that the sharpening process was successful.

How to properly store an ax?

After work, it is recommended to put a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You can't leave an ax stuck in a log. A true master takes care of his tool, because the ax is an “extension” of his hands.

If you even once try to chop wood with a homemade ax, you will not be able to work with a shop tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of craftsmen who know how to make a comfortable ax handle from a selected and dried workpiece.

“Come on, give me back my stone axe” - there is probably no person in our country who has not heard this song. Yes, the first axes were made of stone. But this time passed many thousands of years ago, and now high-quality wood and steel are used to make this product.

During the development of civilization, many varieties of this tool have appeared (construction, throwing, etc.) which have not yet lost their relevance. Moreover, on the market you can find many varieties of this product, which is designed to solve certain tasks, for example, which stand in front of a hunter or tourist.

Classification of axes

In practice, many types of axes are used, which are designed for working with wood. Conventionally, they can be divided into three types:

• cleavers;
• for logging;
• construction or universal.

Accordingly, there are various designs, designed to solve certain problems, for example, a firefighter is equipped with a pick, with which you can pull beams and other structures away from the source of fire.

By the way, the size of the ax can be determined based on the height and physique of the person who will work with it.

Making a blank

A block is hewn out from a block that has been dried. Work must be carried out along the fibers. The size of the bar must be 100 mm larger than the size finished product. The size of the part where it will be installed, and the blade itself should be 2 - 3 mm larger than the size of the eye.

The template prepared in advance must be laid on the surface of the block. At the same time, leave allowances for processing. From the front its size is 10 mm, in the tail it is 90 mm. This allowance is necessary so that the handle does not crack when pulled onto the ax itself. Upon completion of work, this allowance is removed.

Hewing out an ax

To bring the details to required sizes, two cuts must be made in the upper and lower parts of the workpiece, but their depth should not reach the contour of 2 mm. Excess material can be removed using a chisel. After this, using a file with a large notch, the corners, transitions and other surfaces of the handle are leveled. For finishing abrasive sandpaper is used on the surface.

Impregnation with waterproof compound

To increase the resistance of the handle to moisture, special compounds are used. But it is permissible to use drying oil or linseed oil. The handle is covered with this liquid until it stops being absorbed into it.

The handle for the tool should not slip in the hand and therefore, it is not recommended to cover it with any paint and varnish materials or use some kind of pads.

By the way, it wouldn’t hurt to add a coloring pigment to the waterproof coating, for example, orange color. Then the tool with a bright handle will not disappear on the site.

When choosing a piercing part, you must definitely find out what steel it is cast from. Our country has adopted GOST 18578-89. It defines the grades of steel from which it is permissible to make the blade parts of an ax. These are steels - 8ХФ, 9ХФ, 9ХС, ХВГ, У7А, У8, У8А, У8Га, У9, У9А and many others similar in properties to the named grades.

Landing the ax on the handle

Fitting the blade onto the finished handle should be done using markings. To do this, draw a sketch of the eyelet on the upper end. Then you need to mark the length of the piercing part on it. And after that you can begin installing the blade on the handle.

After choosing a tool, the owner is faced with a new task - how to sharpen it. Yes, the manufacturer supplies this tool in a ready-made condition. But sooner or later, the sharpening done in the factory workshops will become dull and the need for independent editing will arise. Practice shows that it is better to spend some time on editing it than to do the work with a blunt instrument. It is advisable to perform turning of a product using a template. It is made independently. To do this you will need a small piece of tin. After choosing the sharpening angle, you need to mark it on the sheet metal and cut out the angle. After this, attach the template to the blade. The angle of deviation from the required one will be immediately visible. Using a marker, apply to cutting edge corresponding labels.

When sharpening, the master must consider the following factors:

Characteristics of the wood he will have to work with. What kind of work will have to be done, harvesting lumber is one thing, cutting out locks on logs installed in a log house is another. Of course, the material from which the blade is made must also be taken into account.

How to make a battle ax

Not all axes can be purchased in the store; for example, it is impossible to buy a battle axe. And therefore, if you want to get such a product, it’s easier to make an ax with your own hands.

As a basis, you can take an ordinary construction tool, see Fig. 2., and make a combat blade from it.

It has certain disadvantages:

1. It has an irrational form.
2. It has excess mass, which will interfere with manipulations during the battle.

Viking battle ax

It should also be noted that the upper ledge will create difficulties during chopping and striking. That is, it gives the ax an unnecessary torque directed counterclockwise, thus causing increased wear on the ax handle. It won't hurt to grind off the protrusion located below. In addition, straight sharpening is not entirely suitable for a battle axe.

How to make an ax from wood

How to make an ax from wood? To do this, you need to prepare a wedge-shaped blank from which you will need to make a blade. On the surface of the workpiece, you need to draw the outline of the future toy with a marker. Excess material can be removed using an abrasive sharpener.

On next stage On the end surface of the workpiece it is necessary to mark the outline of the hole for the ax handle. The technology for obtaining the handle is described above, but it is necessary to correct the dimensions.

Bringing the blade and handle to the required shape can be done using a sharpener or file. In a fairly short time, the children's ax will be ready.

What product does a hunter who spends a lot of time in conditions need? wildlife how it can be done. Yes, no one argues, in specialized stores you can buy a product for every taste. But not all of them meet the needs of hunters.

In order to make the cutting part of a product for hunting, you need to use a solid piece of metal. But somehow it’s more common to hold an ax with wooden handle. For the manufacture of the blade, grade 1040 steel is used, this is a structural alloy steel, the Russian equivalent is 40G.

You can make the cutting part by ordering it from the village smithy. The master is able to forge the necessary blank for the blade. He is also able to make and install a steel handle. If such a handle does not suit you, then you can install a wooden one. When making it, you need to take into account some simple rules:

The handle cannot be varnished - the hand will slip.

When choosing its shape, it is necessary to take into account the width of the grip of the palm; it is necessary to make stops that will allow you to hold the ax in your hand.

How to make a taiga ax

Before you make a taiga axe, you need to understand how it differs from a traditional one? It has a different blade shape and ax handle parameters. That is, you can take an ordinary ax as a basis. Change the shape of its sharpening, remove excess material in the upper part, by analogy with the combat one.

You can use an angle grinder to remove excess material.

The ax handle can be made from birch. To secure it more securely in the blade, you can wrap a bandage impregnated with epoxy resin. It makes sense to soak the handle itself with linseed oil.