Useful tips

Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, it seems like your house will never be in order.

But you can get as close as possible to the desired order using regular paper trays.

These items can be used for various other purposes besides storing paper and, surprisingly, they will help you organize many different things in your home and office.

Cleaning up your home: kitchen

Horizontal paper tray

1. If you put paper trays in the refrigerator, they can act as shelves for frozen fruits, meats and other products.

Vertical paper tray

2. Attach double-sided tape to the tray (preferably one that can withstand a couple of kilograms). After this, attach the paper tray to the cabinet door. In such a tray you can put various kitchen appliances that you often use.

3. You can also use paper trays to store fruits and vegetables.

This way you will know exactly where and what products are located, and also save a lot of free space. You can sign them if you wish.

Read also:

4. Various canned goods can be stored in such trays.

5. By attaching a paper tray to the cabinet door, you can store foil, baking paper and disposable bags, for example.

6. Bottles, thermoses and thermal mugs.

Organization of order in the house: bathroom and toilet

Toilet paper organizer

1. Use plastic tray for papers for storage toilet paper. You can make a special toilet paper tray with your own hands.

2. If you attach the paper tray to the cabinet door (with inside), then you can carefully and safely store a hair dryer in the bathroom, for example.

How to clean up your home: bedroom

1. With double sided tape Attach the paper tray to the edge of the table (you don’t have to attach it, but simply put it on the table, but in this case it will take up little space on the table).

This will give you space to store your hair dryer, curling iron and other tools. In addition, the wires of the devices can hang through the tray, which means you don’t have to untangle them.

Wooden paper tray

2. Turn a wooden filing tray into a shelf by screwing it sideways into a corner. This way you can store magazines, remote controls and other small items.

Building codes require that volumetric concrete structures poured simultaneously, preferably during daylight hours. One of the components of the rapid pouring of a structure is a concrete tray, which you can quickly and easily make with your own hands.

Concrete tray: where to start assembling?

Volumetric concrete works involve the use of the following machines and equipment: a truck mixer with ready-made concrete or a concrete mixer, a concrete pump or a tray for supplying concrete to the pouring area.

At the same time, a car mixer or a concrete mixer are “constant” quantities, that is, equipment that you cannot do without. An expensive concrete pump to rent (rental costs start from 14,500 rubles per shift) is usually replaced with a disposable wooden tray (in private housing construction), which can be disassembled and the boards used for other purposes.

Materials, tools, procedure

The dimensions of the future product are taken based on the specific distances from the planned installation of the mixer or concrete mixer to the farthest point of the structure being poured.

In private low-rise housing construction, the length of the tray usually does not exceed 12 meters. The width of the tray is taken to be the “width” of a shovel plus 5 centimeters per side (usually 300 millimeters), the height of the wall is the width of the existing edged boards 150-200 millimeters.

Will be required following materials and tool:

• Edged board 25x150 or 25x200 of the maximum possible length for the tray box;
• Wooden block 40x40 or similar to strengthen the box;
• Wooden block 50x50 or similar for supports under the box;
• Galvanized or roofing iron for lining the bottom of the box;
• “Seventy”, “25”, “weaving” nails or wood screws;
• Hammer, wood saw, screwdriver, tape measure;
• Angle grinder with a metal disc or metal scissors. For cutting galvanized or roofing iron.

In order to save on expensive galvanized iron, you can independently plane the side of the boards along which the concrete will be transported as smoothly as possible. For these purposes you will need a plane or jointer.

Important! Some websites publish articles that suggest covering the bottom of the box with polyethylene or linoleum. This suggests that the authors have never made or used trays for concrete - polyethylene will very quickly be torn apart by filler and a shovel, and buying linoleum will be much more expensive than using iron or simply planing one side of the board.

Operating procedure

• Depending on the width of the existing boards, the bottom of the tray box is assembled - 4 (150 mm) or 3 (200 mm) boards in a row are connected into an “end” with an overlay from the same board nailed to the underside of the bottom of the box. For strength and reliability, also on the bottom side of the box with a step of 600-800 mm to the bottom of the box, reinforcing bars 40x40 mm are nailed across;
• The walls of the tray are nailed to the sides of the bottom of the box, and best of all, the walls of the tray are screwed with self-tapping screws, so as to form a U-shaped structure;
• The bottom of the tray is covered with galvanized (roofing) iron, or is not covered if the boards are carefully planed;
• For reliability and strength, the walls of the tray are “bandaged” with 40x40 bars in increments of 0.8-1 meter.

The concrete transport tray itself can be considered ready for use. But there is one caveat. In order for the material to move into the formwork from an automixer or concrete mixer as independently as possible, it must have a slope to the soil surface of 5-15 degrees (for “liquid” concrete) and 20-30 degrees (for thick concrete).

In addition, the concrete tray should not bend under its own weight and the weight of the concrete. This can be achieved in several ways: pin up available materials under the tray (foam blocks, boxes, bricks, etc.) or spend a little time and knock down special triangular trestle supports of different heights from 50x50 mm timber and lay the tray on them as if on a bed.

Also, for the convenience of “turning”, it is advisable to provide two handles in the part of the structure facing the formwork - a 50x50x1000 block nailed to the bottom of the tray, 250-300 mm away from the edge.

Useful practical advice! After you have poured the structure furthest from the mixer, you can cut off part of the tray with a hacksaw and grinder, break the handle for “turning” and continue working without moving the automixer or concrete mixer.

After completion of the work, the tray is disassembled into components that can be used for other construction or repair purposes.

Considering that some companies charge extra for the downtime of an automixer, to speed up the work of delivering concrete to the formwork, use two workers with shovels to stand on either side of the tray and shovel the concrete to the pouring point.

Drainage trays are necessary in areas where rainfall occurs throughout the year. a large number of precipitation. They are also required in places with clay soil. As the flow of water washes away fertile layer, it is necessary to constantly update it, bring in fresh black soil.

The drainage system allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from your site without making any effort.

There are many ways to make the water drain as quickly as possible. The simplest way is to simply dig trenches in the ground with a slope of 30. But they will be washed away by moisture and collapse.

Therefore, the best solution would be one assembled from drainage trays. You can purchase them or make them yourself. Although their manufacture is associated with certain difficulties, this method allows you to save quite an impressive amount of money.

The optimal shape is semicircular. But making a concrete product of this shape is quite problematic. Therefore, most often they resort to the following method.

Photo: overall dimensions

From the smooth boards needed overall dimensions the structure is knocked together in the shape of the letter “P”. It is best to use wood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. Since it is on it that the entire load will fall when pouring concrete.

The design will look something like this. It is better to fasten individual shields together using metal corners, as this will significantly strengthen the structure.

Photo: formwork dimensions

After the formwork is ready, you can proceed to the second stage - preparing the molding part. It consists of a pipe of the required diameter sawn lengthwise. An important point is smoothness outer surface. Since it is this that will form the inside of the tray.

You can also use plastic pipe, which is more preferable. For example, a sewer pipe, the diameter of which can vary within a very wide range - from 50 mm or more. Its surface is almost perfectly smooth and has no pores.

Photo: molding part
Photo: tray dimensions

After preparatory operations completed, you can proceed directly to the production of concrete trays. The resulting solution is simply poured into the formwork, and a pipe cut lengthwise is pressed into it from above.

It should be left in this state for about a day. After the hardening process has completed, you can disassemble the formwork and pick out the pipe.

Necessary materials

To make drainage trays with your own hands, you will need a number of different materials.

First of all, this is all that is needed to obtain waterproof and very durable concrete:

• Portland cement M (PTs 400/D20);
• fine crushed stone or expanded clay, the diameter of one particle should not be more than 10 mm;
• reinforcing mesh or steel rods;
• sand (fine-grained);

Portland cement grade M (PTs) 400/D20 has extremely high strength, which is very important - during removal from the formwork, the tray can simply break.

The number 400 means that this material can easily withstand loads of up to 400 kg. Also, cements with greater strength - 500 or 600 kg - are ideal for the manufacture of drainage trays.

This brand is characterized by increased resistance to moisture - this is precisely the decisive factor. It is also extremely frost-resistant.

That is, even with very large temperature changes, it will not collapse, and repairs to the drainage system will not be needed.

Photo: Portland cement grade M (PC) 400 D20

To reduce the amount of cement, you can slightly dilute it with crushed stone. This will reduce costs, since the cost of this building material relatively small. And make the tray more durable by reducing deforming forces and the number of microcracks.

Photo: crushed stone

Reinforcing mesh or steel rods are required to reinforce the product. Since they not only increase the strength of the structure, but also do not allow the tray to collapse when it is released from the formwork. This makes it possible to produce very long trays, spending less time on the process.

Photo: reinforcing mesh or steel rods for reinforcement

Sand is needed to prepare the solution. Since during its hardening various microcracks and deformations are formed. And sand allows the resulting product not to crumble under the influence of these forces.

Tools

To prepare high-quality concrete mixture you need to have a certain set of tools. To both manual and electric:

• shovel and bayonet;
• Master OK;
• scoop;
• concrete mixer;
• drill or hammer drill;
• attachment – ​​mixer for a hammer drill;
• wheelbarrow for transporting solution.

A bayonet and shovel will be needed to lay the mortar inside the formwork. A scoop will be needed to accurately measure the amount of sand or crushed stone. Trowel - for trimming the product while it has not yet hardened.

The solution itself can be mixed in several ways. The simplest, but at the same time labor-intensive, is to do it manually. Everything you need is poured into some container - for example, a large trough, and simply mixed with a shovel.

This process can be carried out much faster using any auxiliary equipment. It can serve as regular drill, or a hammer drill. With a special attachment attached to it, which acts as a mini mixer for concrete.

It will make it possible to mix the solution as efficiently as possible and make it uniform. A concrete mixer will also work well for this. The volume of the container for mixing the solution (trough or other) should be selected depending on the volume of work.

Scheme

Drainage systems on the site can be made according to a variety of schemes.

It is only important to follow a few rules:

• the slope of each tray must be at least 30 relative to the total length of the line;
• the number of turns and corners is minimal;
• Moisture should flow away from the garden, and not towards it.

If you need to perform complex drainage in a garden where there are a large number of trees or other perennial plants, then the optimal way out of the situation would be a branched circuit. It looks like this:

A feature of this scheme is the presence of two outlets, that is, water will flow out of the site in two places.

Photo: diagram of complex drainage in the garden

It happens that the site has an uneven slope over its entire area. Then the drainage scheme will have a slightly different appearance - all the slopes in it must correspond to the heights on different areas of the land plot.

Photo: typical diagram drainage

If the site has the same slope over its entire area, then you can use one of the most simple circuits drainage - linear. Several parallel channels are dug, all of them connecting at the point of lowest slope.

Photo: linear drainage diagram

Manufacturing process

The tray manufacturing process includes several stages:

• preparing the mold for pouring (formwork and molding part - pipes);
• laying the reinforcing part into molds;
• filling forms.

The formwork is the most important part. The strength of the resulting product depends on how reliably and accurately it is made. It is best to use boards of small thickness to make it.

They must be fastened not only with nails, but also with crossbars made of wood or metal. The bottom and walls of the formwork must be laid with thick, especially durable polyethylene.

Photo: formwork

Mixing the solution must be carried out in compliance with the proportions. Only then will the resulting concrete product be strong enough. According to various GOSTs, the optimal ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone is 1:3:5. Water must be added in an amount sufficient to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.

Photo: mixing the solution

Reinforcement – important stage. The mesh or steel rods should be spaced a few centimeters apart in vertical plane to increase the strength of the product.

Photo: reinforcement

The penultimate stage is pouring the formwork. This process quite simple, but it is important to be as careful as possible. After it is completed, it is necessary to immediately place the forming element - the pipe - into the formwork. It gives the hardening solution the desired shape.

After the solution has hardened, the formwork can be disassembled and the pipe removed. As a result, the resulting tray should be rectangular, with an internal cavity of the required diameter.

It is important that the inside, through which water will subsequently flow, be as smooth as possible.

Photo: the inner part through which water will subsequently flow should be as smooth as possible

Step-by-step installation

The site is carried out in several stages. The simplest and at the same time time-consuming is preparing trenches for laying trays. When the trench is dug, it is advisable to partially fill its bottom with fine sand or crushed stone. This will allow you to easily adjust the slope if necessary.

This parameter is best measured using a level or building level more than 1 m long.

Photo: preparing trenches for laying trays

After which you can proceed directly to laying the trays in already prepared trenches.

It is only important to follow along the entire length drainage system required slope. This will allow the water to flow down as quickly as possible without accumulating or stagnating.

Photo: trays stacked

The trays are stacked. Now they can be fastened using the same solution. He is mixed in required volume and using a pre-prepared trowel, it is smeared into the joints between the trays.

It is important to do this as carefully as possible, making the surface smooth and sloping. Otherwise, sand and various suspended matter will accumulate in these places.

Like making concrete trays for it, the process is not complicated, requiring only time and the necessary hand tools. By following all installation rules, you can forever save yourself from the problem of site flooding.

Video: installation of ASO Euroline (drainage trays)

04 September 2013 1

There is a catastrophic lack of space on the desktop; one storage box is somehow not enough for my papers. And like a first-grader, I have colored paper, PVA glue, scissors, and sheets of felt - and everything needs to be put somewhere. And I decided to make a box or tray for storing papers myself. It is done quickly - cut it out of cardboard and glue it together. However, first things first.

What you need to make a cardboard box with your own hands

• Cardboard (I have thick corrugated cardboard from a packaging box)
• Super glue
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Masking tape
• Scissors
• Glue stick
• Stationery knife
• Napkins (for pasting our beauty)

You will need a lot of space to cut out a full-fledged box for storing A4 papers - I freed up the table in the kitchen for this.

We start with the pattern. We mark the future box using a pencil and ruler.

You can make a solid box and then fold and glue it, but even my huge piece of cardboard was not enough for this, so I still cut out the front wall separately.

Using a ruler and pencil we make a pattern. I used a box I already had as a basis. The dimensions turned out to be:

1) Bottom: 27x10 cm

2) Sidewall: height - 30 cm, depth 27 cm

3) Front wall: 10x15 (10 cm corresponds to the width of the bottom, and the height can be varied as you like).

Cut it out. You can cut it with scissors, but thick cardboard is much more convenient to cut with a stationery knife. We also use a sharp blade of scissors to draw out the fold lines of the future box.

Cut out the front wall.

Fold the box along the fold lines.

All that remains is to glue it together. I didn’t know how to glue cardboard well (I had PVA, a glue stick and superglue), so I used superglue for reliability - it holds tightly.

For the second box, I made the front wall a little lower. And I cut this box out of double corrugated cardboard - I suffered wildly. Such thick cardboard is not needed for storing papers, but cutting it out is oh so hard

All that remains is to cover the box with napkins.

Iron the folds of the napkins.

To cover the outside of one box, you will need 3 napkins 30x30 cm - one for each side, and from the thirds we cut out three strips (on back wall, bottom and front wall).

Most cats in city apartments are constantly indoors. It is not customary to walk them like dogs. Therefore, arranging a “bathroom” for an animal is a must. For this reason, you need to choose a tray and filler for it with all responsibility. There are a large number of options for these products on sale, but you can make them yourself. Topic of the article: how to make a litter box for a cat with your own hands.

Requirements

Before you start working, you need to know which design is preferable. It is important to decide on the size, since the tray should be comfortable for the animal. Otherwise, it will simply do its business where it is more convenient. The pet should be able to take a comfortable position, therefore:

• The best option is a flat, oblong-shaped device.
• If your cat is shy by nature and prefers to cope with big and small needs, good decision will become a closed “house”.
• The depth of the future “toilet” should be no less than 50, but no more than 70-80 mm. If the tray is too shallow, then the filler, swelling, will spill out through the sides.

Important! For animals that like to rummage through the litter, higher sides are desirable. A tray designed for a small kitten should be small in height so that the baby can easily climb in and out of the tray.

As for the material of manufacture, then:

• It is advisable that your DIY cat tray be made of plastic. This is a durable, affordable, and, most importantly, extremely easy-to-care material. It is extremely easy to wash and clean.
• Basically, metal too suitable option, but it quickly oxidizes, reacting with the animal’s urine.
• Wood is only suitable for temporary use, as it quickly swells, absorbs moisture, and a constant aroma reigns in the apartment, which is quite difficult to get rid of. For the same reason, cardboard box under a cat latrine is not the best option.

How to make a toilet for a cat with your own hands: plastic design

Making a plastic “toilet” for a cat is not at all difficult and does not take long. Some complex instruments won't be useful either. So, to make a “latrine” for a catfish, you will need:

• Plastic container (bath, construction basin).
• Marker, masking tape.
• Hacksaw. It can be replaced with a jigsaw or grinder.
• Coarse sandpaper or file.
• Acrylic paint.

The algorithm is as follows:

1. Take the right one plastic container.
2. Mark the cut location with a marker or tape. You choose the height of the sides yourself, depending on age, size and individual characteristics your pet predator.
3. Cut off all excess using a jigsaw, hacksaw or grinder. It is not advisable to use scissors for this purpose, as the material may crack.
4. Clean the cut areas with sandpaper or a file.
5. If desired, paint the container acrylic paint(preferably from a can).

Important! If you take a closed plastic container and cut an entrance into it, you will get a cozy “toilet-house” for a shy pet.

DIY wooden cat tray

As already mentioned, this is a temporary option. You can use a box made of plywood or boards as a “bathroom” for the mustachioed tabby.

So, you will need:

• Boards or plywood sheets.
• File, jigsaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Screws or self-tapping screws.
• Metal corners.
• Thick waterproof film.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Make a sketch or drawing of the future product, taking into account the dimensions and configuration. It can be a rectangle or a triangular structure (for placement in a corner).
2. Cut out 3 or 4 (depending on the configuration) sides for the future tray. Fasten them together using screws or self-tapping screws.
3. Cut out the bottom and attach it to the frame using corners.
4. Cover the bottom of the product with film and fill it with filler.