The question of what a storm sewer is is no longer something mysterious and incomprehensible. The media constantly discusses topics on the correct operation of this type of sewer, especially when cities are flooded with rain. This system is specially laid for the removal of rain and melt water. And in private housing construction it is used everywhere today. Country developers invest a lot of money in storm water to protect their site from flooding.

The storm sewer system is simple. This is a network of channels, tunnels or pipes that divert rain and melt water from the foundation of the house and from the territory of the site. The conclusion is organized outside the site into natural reservoirs, ditches or ravines. Sometimes reservoirs are installed in the ground, where water is simply collected, and then pumped further. Wherein sewer network is a self-flowing system. Therefore, it is very important to correctly set the angle of inclination of pipes or channels from the house towards the outlet outside the territory. By the way, the angle of inclination varies between 3-7 degrees.

Device storm system

Types of storm sewers

There are two types of rainwater:

An example of an open and closed view storm sewer.

1. Open type. These are dug ditches into which concrete or plastic trays. From above, the tray system is closed with metal or plastic gratings. Before the advent of trays, dug ditches (trenches) were concreted by hand, or they were simply covered with rubble or gravel.
2. Closed. This underground network from pipes. Today, ordinary sewer pipes made of plastic are used, which are interconnected by a socket method.

Scheme of a closed (underground) storm sewer

We must pay tribute to the fact that both varieties are today used in suburban areas in equal proportions. At the same time, storm sewer trays (concrete or plastic) are easier to install. The latter are easier, which means it’s easier to work with them, which is why they are so popular and in demand. We also recommend reading an article about a private house, how it works, read on our website.

Storm drain installation

The entire installation process must be divided into three main stages:

1. Create a diagram and calculate the patency of the network.
2. Carry out preparatory work.
3. The installation itself is carried out directly.

Scheme and calculation

First of all, a schema is created. The storm system must be laid where rain and melt water is collected in large quantities. And these are the slopes of the roofs, under which the drain is installed. It is under the vertical pipe risers drainage system and it is necessary to mount the receiving elements of the stormwater. That is, it will starting points beginning of the schema. It turns out that how many risers at the drain, so many sewer branches will have to be installed.

The opposite end point is drainage well. It is installed in the lowest place suburban area. Therefore, this place must be found and designated in advance.

Storm sewer scheme.

Now we draw a diagram on paper:

1. First, we mark the location of the well.
2. Under the risers of the drain of the main house, we put the location of the storm water inlets.
3. A straight line is drawn between the well and the receiver closest to it. This is the main storm sewer circuit.
4. We combine the rest of the storm water inlets into a single circuit and bring it to the main branch.

On the site, in addition to the main house, there are also auxiliary buildings: a garage, a bathhouse, summer cuisine and others. They are also installed under their roofs, which means that stormwater will have to be carried out for these buildings. Everything is done in exactly the same way as with the system of the main house. Just connect their main circuit to the main sewer circuit.

The connection of all branches into a single network can be carried out according to two schemes:

• herringbone, when the docking of different branches of the sewer is made at angles to the main circuit;
• circular, when the main contour is drawn, and all other branches are connected to it through the combined rounded sections.

Usually the first option is used, as the simplest and least expensive.

Now, as for the calculation. There is a diagram, on it you can accurately calculate the number of storm water inlets, fittings, manholes and the total length of the required pipes.

Attention! Inspection wells are needed to control the operation of the storm drain, and, if necessary, to clean it. Install these devices every 50 m. On small summer cottages they are not installed.

Preparatory work

First of all, the scheme is transferred to the site. Just set the pegs, which are tied with twine or twine. Now you need to take shovels in your hands and dig trenches under the sewer pipe.

Since there are no serious requirements for storm water, except for the correct set angle slope, then the pipes are buried to a shallow depth. The removal of rain and melt water is carried out only at positive temperatures, so you do not need to pay attention to the fact that the piping will freeze. Accordingly, the volume earthworks will be small.

The most important thing in the process of digging trenches is to at least slightly hold the slope towards the well. Be sure to immediately dig a pit under the well. It can be assembled from reinforced concrete rings, bricks, blocks or stone. But today, more and more people are using different size and molds of plastic containers. This means that a pit must be dug to fit the parameters of the purchased reservoir.

The bottom of the trenches is covered with sand. Try to withstand the slope at least visually. Basically, on this preparatory stage can be considered completed.

Assembly process

The installation of storm sewers has approached its main stage - laying pipes or trays and assembling the network. This is the most important process on which the efficient and correct operation of the entire system depends. As for pipes, ordinary sewer products with a diameter of 100-110 mm are used for storm water. They are stacked by inserting into each other. When joining adjacent branches, the connection is made by fittings: bends, tees, crosses.

It is at this stage that it is necessary to ensure that the angle of inclination along the entire length of the contours is the same. Therefore, when laying each pipe, check it for slope using a level or goniometer. If the slope is large, then a layer of sand is poured under the lower edge of the pipe. If it is small, then, on the contrary, the poured layer is reduced.

When the entire network is assembled, they proceed to the installation of a sewer well. the main task if a ready-made tank is purchased, set it up so that its inlet pipe becomes a continuation of the sewer pipe in one straight line. In the tap (knee) in this place - not the most the best choice. This is the first.

Secondly, it is important that the inlet pipe is flush with the supply pipe. Therefore, storm sewers are first assembled, meaning pipes, and then a plastic well is installed. If its inlet pipe turned out to be much lower than the sewer pipe, then the tank is pulled out and made under it sand bedding. If it turned out to be higher, then the bottom of the pit is reduced by digging out part of the soil or sand cushion.

Installation of storm water inlets

Installing a storm water inlet for a private house

Despite the seeming simplicity of this installation operation, there are several rather serious nuances in it that affect the quality of the final result. Here is the installation sequence for this device:

1. At the installation sites of storm water inlets, holes are dug 15 cm deeper than the height of the device, on the sides 30 cm more than the side of the device.
2. A cement-sand mixture is poured to the bottom. They level it and ram it. The thickness of the bedding is 10 cm.
3. Inside the hole is placed folded in half polyethylene film. Laying is done so that the polyethylene covers the walls of the recess. This is a waterproofing that will prevent the concrete solution from penetrating into the soil and pillow.
4. The bottom is flooded concrete mortar 2-5 cm thick.
5. Install a storm water inlet, set it according to the level.
6. It is connected to a pipe with a two-way coupling or two bends. The last option is used only if sewage pipe located well below the installation level of the storm water inlet.
7. The gap between the walls of the recess and the installed device is poured with concrete.
8. As soon as the concrete "grabs", a siphon, a sand collector and a grate are installed inside the storm water inlet body.

Attention! The height of the storm water inlet is installed so that its protective grating is located on the same level with the coating near the foundation. It can be a blind area or a sidewalk: tiles, stone, asphalt, etc.

This is how a do-it-yourself storm drain is built from sewer pipes.

Installation of trays

As for the installation of storm sewer trays, purely schematically, this process is no different from the previous one. That is, a main circuit is created, to which secondary branches of the network are attached.

Here it is necessary to decide first of all the question of what material to choose a tray from.

And two purely constructive moments. Let's start with the fact that storm sewers must be 100% tight at the junction of the trays. Therefore, manufacturers today offer trays with tongue-and-groove connecting locks. This is additionally convenient in the sense that when connecting two elements, there is no need to check how tightly one tray fits into the other. That is, they inserted the spike of one into the groove of the other - and this is a guarantee of the tightness of the connection.

Second structural element- This is a factory bias. All this consists in the fact that the tray itself is a straight product. But its grooved part is made at an angle. That is, on one side the thickness of the bottom is large, on the opposite side it is thinner. Therefore, when a storm drain is constructed from such trays, the trenches for them do not need to be dug with a slope. The bottom is leveled along the horizon, the same is done with a sand cushion. The products themselves are also displayed horizontally, which is much easier than tilting. Products made of concrete or composite material are recommended to be installed on a concrete pad. Plastic on sand.

How to take care of your rain gutter

If it concerns the system closed type, then you just need to periodically clean the storm water inlet from debris and sand. Usually the underground part is littered very rarely. But if this happened, then the most effective option- hydrodynamic. This is the supply of a large amount of water under high pressure.

As for the tray system, the main thing is to periodically clean the grids that cover the trays. This can be done with an ordinary broom. After the end of leaf fall, it is recommended to clean the trays themselves. To do this, you will have to remove all the grates and get the garbage with a scoop.

Conclusion on the topic

Storm water in a private house is a necessary system. Don't skimp on it. Moreover, the cost of its construction is minimal. The installation technology itself is simple, so it’s easy to do it yourself. The main thing is to take into account the nuances of selection and installation indicated in this article. Even a slight deviation in the editing process can reduce the quality of the final result.

Any private house exposed to precipitation. Sooner or later, any homeowner begins to think about storm sewers on their site. In fact, it effectively collects and also removes precipitation from the site. Many have confidence that this system is a drain from the roof. In fact, this is a complex mechanism that includes many elements. Let's talk about how to make a storm drain on your site.

Principles of wastewater disposal

It is best to get started with studying the main points of water disposal. The entire system must be directed to main principle- drains are collected from the roof into a single stream, and then redirected to the collector. So all the main elements are collected in a common highway, which carries out a spillway.

V general procedure rainwater drainage will look like this:

• Water from the roof flows into the gutters of the roof drain;
• Drains enter the storm water inlet, are sent to the collector.

Useful advice. If centralized sewerage no, then the nearest ditch, reservoir or suitable well can play the role of a collector.

If we mention the drainage system, then it also occupies a significant place. She settles down where she's going the largest number water.

How to design and calculate a storm drain

In order to do all the work with your own hands, but not to spend extra money, you need to carry out all the calculations in advance. Otherwise, you can get the following trouble:

• Do not calculate all the nuances. The system will not cope with the required amount of work;
• Do everything with a margin. Extra money will be spent.

The most accurate calculation will be obtained if the following data are available:

• Precipitation (volume), which is characteristic of the area. They can be found if you study the SNiP.
• When removal of melt water is required, then information about the level of snow cover. Here, the frequency of rains will be needed.
• Wastewater collection area.
• Soil parameters on the site.
• The location of the communications available in the land.

When you have all the data, you will be able to perform all calculations on the number of drains to be diverted. The following formula is used in the calculation:

Required for calculations correction factor. It will be different for different types surfaces:

According to the results of the calculation, it is necessary to select the required pipe diameter. In the search, you need to use the current SNiP table.

The design must also take into account the manner in which fluid is transported to the reservoir. If there is such a situation that the slope of the storm sewer is insufficient for gravity flow, then it will be necessary to use the forced method using pumps.

Pay attention! Design must be carried out both at the external roof system and at elements underground.

System elements

Since rainwater drainage is necessary in order to collect and remove precipitation, the main structural elements will be pipes, trays, storm water inlets. Functionality depends on the correct choice, as well as the installation of components. Next, consider the structural elements of the stormwater.

receiving elements

rainwater inlets. Required to collect liquid from roofs, concrete surfaces, etc. Structurally, it is a container with a tap to a common sewer line. The material of manufacture is different, but most often they are polyethylene or polypropylene.

A prerequisite is the presence of filters that protect against clogging with debris. They are a kind of basket that can be pulled out for cleaning. There are also devices equipped with siphons to delay unpleasant odors.

Door trays. Analogue of the previous element. However, they are mounted near the entrance. It has a protective grille at the top, and a tap for connection to the pipeline at the bottom. Using such pallets solves 2 problems:

• Collects, removes liquid at the entrance to the building;
• Cleans the shoes of people entering the building. There is a special grille, which, among other things, is a decorative element.

Pipes and trays. Components through which fluid moves. direct wastewater from the storm water inlets to the collector.

wells. They provide intermediate collection of rainwater, as well as stable operation of stormwater drainage.

Storm drain protection devices

Sand traps. They are a mandatory component. The main task is to hold sand or soil. They protect pipes from clogging and allow the entire system to work optimally.

The principle of operation is as follows: water enters the sand trap. The flow rate in the device decreases because its size is larger than drain pipe. Soil particles settle to the bottom, and the liquid moves further along the outgoing pipe.

In the same way as storm water inlets should have filter baskets to remove dirt.

Oil separators and oil separators. Devices that are mandatory for installation at industrial facilities. Especially important point will be where there is a combination of storm sewers with the removal of waste liquid, for example, at car washes.

Filters. Rainwater collection and removal systems are not able to function without various kinds of filters. They can clean from mechanical impurities, carry out deep cleansing to the required sanitary requirements. Filtration devices are as follows:

• Mechanical. Simple in design, but very effective. They carry out the main purification - from suspended particles. The first stage of cleaning is carried out by gratings on gutters, storm water inlets. The second stage is carried out in filter baskets that trap small debris. Provide long service life with high performance.
• Sorption. Since in rain or melt water there is the presence of harmful chemical substances, then there is a need to clean them up. Such purification occurs with the help of sorption filter elements. Such devices allow water to pass through itself, purifying it from harmful substances. used as sorbents. Activated carbon, shungite, special substances.

Water Collection Methods

Based on the options for collecting water and design, storm sewers can be divided into 2 types - point and linear.

Point system

It has storm water inlets installed under the gutters from the roof. Each device has its own line, which is part of a single trunk. As mentioned earlier, they have protective grilles, as well as sand traps.

Linear system

With this design, the storm drain consists of a network of trays and pipelines, either in the ground or openly laid. Open trays are also equipped with sand traps and protective gratings. The difference with the point will be that the linear one is able to absorb liquid both from the roof and from the entire site. For significant perimeters, it is necessary to apply this particular model.

Thus, before starting work, you need to decide on the method of collecting water, since at the initial stage preparatory work will be required.

At what depth canals be laid

It is necessary to choose the level of the bookmark taking into account the conditions of your site. So, for example, small pipes depth 30 cm. When pipelines are already of medium size, it is necessary to deepen up to 50 cm. For large dimensions, of course, a different level of deepening will be required - up to 70 cm.

Pay attention! If there is a drainage system, storm sewers should be laid above it.

If there is no desire to sink too much into the ground, then you can reduce the depth of the bookmark. So, for example, the collector does not have to be mounted at a level greater than the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is not necessary to deepen the channels. To prevent freezing of the collector, it should be insulated.

You can reduce the depth of the trench, but you don’t need to get too carried away. So, the slope of the storm sewer must be sufficient for an independent stack of liquid. Based on this, the collector in any case is located below the level of the storm water inlet. Just for this moment, the development of the project will come in handy. It will allow you to calculate the required slope in advance.

What slope is needed

The slope of the storm drain is regulated state standard. Based on this, the level will be as follows:

• Pipes of 150 mm - 8 millimeters per 1 meter of the route;
• Pipe 200 mm - 7 millimeters per 1 meter of the track.

True, you can take into account the nuances of the site and slightly change these values.

Pay attention! The storm water inlet must have a slope of 2 mm. This is due to the fact that if the slope is too small, the stormwater may not be able to cope with the entire amount of work.

The sand trap must have an even lower level of inclination, because. the principle of operation must be observed so that solid elements have time to fit on the bottom.

Mounting process

The initial stage is the installation of gutters on the roof and bringing them down to the storm water inlet. Next, operations begin on the site.

All installation begins with the installation of storm water inlets. They must be installed directly under the roof drainpipes. Each receiving device must be connected to a single line. Gutters with the help of knees are combined with receivers.

The next step is to prepare the trenches. Pipes must be laid on a bed of sand, the thickness of which is at least 100 mm. It has already been said above that the necessary bias is required, which must be constantly monitored.

To reduce the amount of earthmoving, you can place a storm and drainage pipeline in one prepared trench. But you can't combine them. The drainage line must be placed below, and on top of it is already a storm.

If we summarize all the operations, we can say that all pipelines are brought into a single line that goes to the collector.

As for the collector, it is important to note that it must be equipped with elements for controlling the water level and cleaning it from pollution.

When all pipelines are connected and laid, then all trenches are covered with gratings.

Naturally, after installation, it is necessary to conduct a performance check. The storm drain is checked as follows - a bucket of water is poured into all storm water inlets, the stack process is observed. You should also look for leaks. If present, remove them immediately. If everything works well, then cover the gratings with cellophane, fill the trench with soil.

Combination of storm and drainage systems

Earlier it was said that to combine storm water and drainage system it is forbidden. However, we offer the main points for their proper arrangement.

• Combination is not allowed.
• Drainage is located at a depth greater than the level of soil freezing.
• For drainage, it is necessary to make a deeper trench, which, among other things, must be covered with rubble. The use of crushed stone is explained by the fact that this eliminates pressure on the pipe groundwater and thereby protect the pipe from destruction.
• Installation of drainage is also carried out in compliance with the slope.

Sometimes for a summer resident, the long-awaited rain at the height of the season becomes a real disaster. As a result of a protracted summer downpour, as well as during a spring flood, a real lake can form on the site.

In order to avoid stagnation of water, a system for collecting and removing it from the territory is needed. If a storm sewer is built with your own hands, then the cost of its construction will be minimal.

In the article presented for review, the principle of the atmospheric water removal system is described in detail, the components of the structure are described. We will tell you how best to build it and how to maintain it. Taking into account our advice, the organization of storm water will not cause the slightest difficulty.

Storm sewer- specific design. The water discharged through this system contains both small and large debris. Therefore, in the stormwater must be primary cleaning.

The system may differ in the amount of water it is able to accept, design, the duration of effective functioning.

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Storm sewage for a private house is very necessary, because it drains rain and melt water from the house and the site.

If this system is not equipped, then rain or melt water will accumulate in the soil, and this will adversely affect buildings.

In this article, we will consider the topic of arranging a storm in a private house.

Due to too wet soil, the structure may settle and tilt.

To avoid this problem, storm sewer equipment is needed.

This system can be done on your own at the beginning of construction or arranged near the built house. Next, we will analyze the storm sewer device.

Structure

• if the pipe diameter is 20 cm, then the slope will be 7 mm,
• if the pipe diameter is 15cm, the pipe diameter should be 8mm,

These options are suitable for closed system storm sewer.

For open type storm sewers have completely different parameters, for example, the slope will be 3-5 mm per 1 linear meter of pipe.

Where there are pipe connections with storm wells, the slope should be two centimeters per linear meter.

Storm sewer installation in a private household

1. To begin with, trenches of the required width and depth are prepared, taking into account the slope;
2. The bottom of the trench is well tamped and made sand cushion, the height of which should be twenty centimeters;
3. In a predetermined place, a pit is made in order to later install a container for collecting water. You can make such a container with your own hands from concrete;
4. Channels and pipes are laid on a sand cushion, everything is connected and the joints are sealed;
5. At the junction with the collector, they install devices for retaining sand and debris, they also make manholes, in places the pipes have bends and in areas of more than ten meters;
6. All underground channels are sprinkled with earth and covered with a grate. When you equip storm sewers, keep in mind that drains should be from each roof slope.

If you have used quality materials and made storm sewers according to all the rules, then it will serve you for many years.

This system will save private homeowners from slush, puddles and premature destruction.

We hope that this article was useful and informative for you. Good luck in your endeavors and patience!

Water that accumulates during rain or from melting snow near the house can lead to flooding and destruction of the foundation. To prevent this from happening, storm sewers are required in a private house.

In addition, it is required for the accumulation of water resources in regions with an arid climate. Also for taking excess moisture from vegetation to adjoining territory. It can be easily installed by yourself.

Storm sewerage in a private house: device

Drainage is a system by which the collection and filtering of melt and rainwater accumulated in a special reservoir. Then they are used as process water.

Trays or storm water inlets are divided into:

• closed type;
• open;
• combined type.

Open and closed storm sewers in a private house are considered part of the path. In the first case (simple point sewerage) from the roof to drainpipe water enters the tray. In the second (closed) version, water enters the buried pipe, then into the collector to collect water. They are directly mounted closed trays, leaving only lattices on the surface. Through them, moisture goes into the underground pipeline. This type is used for large building perimeters.

For open storm sewers in a private house, external water inlets are used. They are open and mounted on the surface.

By design, they do not differ from closed ones, but they are flooded more often, so more care is needed. Apply such or a small cottage. There is a third type of storm drainage system - mixed or combined. It combines the features of internal and external drainage. In it, one part of the storm drain is carried out by closed drains, the other by open drains.

Water disposal elements

Drainage and drainage pipes come from:

• plastic;
• concrete;
• cast iron;
• alloy steel;
• aluminum.

Do-it-yourself plastic and steel materials are used to equip storm sewers in a private house, since they are reliable in operation and easy to install.

The storm sewer system consists of:

• gutters and storm water inlets;
• collectors for collecting water.

Gutters and storm water inlets

This is the initial link in the system, through which wastewater enters the drain and pipeline. When choosing a material, preference should be given to concrete or plastic, since metal ones are very noisy under the blows of rain and gusts of wind, if not buried in the ground. In addition, they are prone to corrosion. Concrete is more reliable and has a long service life. However, such gutters have strictly regulated dimensions and it is not always possible to install them on the site. Plastic, on the other hand, is easily cut and combined, and the storm water inlet can have a different depth of the well. With an existing blind area, they can be easily mounted without dismantling it.

Filters

Designed to hold stones, leaves, sand, branches and other debris that can clog pipes. Lattices allow you to clean storm sewers less often, eliminate the risk of stumbling. Cast iron as a grating material is reliable, but requires painting every 2 years. Steel rusts quickly. aluminum can be considered the best option because it has a long service life and looks stylish. However, it is somewhat more expensive.

The dimensions of the holes should not be very small, as they must pass a lot of water at once, but not large, otherwise debris will enter the system and lead to clogging.

Pipe networks

The pipes carry the flow to the water collection point. If they are made of PVC, then this perfect solution for storm sewers. Their smooth surface eliminates the risk of silting. Their diameter is 100-150 mm.

Collector for collecting water

The collector is part of a closed and mixed stormwater system and is a reservoir for receiving the main flow of water. Such a well can be equipped from sand and gravel pad and concrete rings or concrete ring with a bottom for the use of liquid in the future. A plastic well is assembled from PVC molds. It is perfect for those areas where groundwater occurs superficially. Drainage occurs using a piping system, and moisture can also be used for economic purposes on the site.

Instead of a collector, it is permissible to make drainage from a special perforated plastic container with the discharge of water into the ground, placing it horizontally and deepening it into the sand. Through the holes, moisture will gradually seep into the sand and go into the depths.

In addition, the stormwater device can be supplemented with an under-door tray installed near the porch when front door, pipes for soil drainage, a hatch for access to the system.

Operating principle

The main principle of the sewerage system is the observance of gravity, for which it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

1. The location of the building to determine the length of the storm pipes around the house.
2. Relief features of the area.
3. Climate and rainfall to determine the volume and number of wells and pipes.

With an average annual rainfall of 60-90 cubic meters. m pipe diameter should be 11-12 cm.

The scheme of installation of storm trays in the courtyard of the house depends on the type of rainfall collection. It can be linear or dotted.

The layout of the system should be considered when designing a house so that drains are discharged in a straight line and there is less problems with cleaning.

The diagram indicates the location of communications, storage, equipment and drain circuits. When combining drainage and stormwater into the sewer, a more serious approach will be required and a geodetic study of the territory will be required in order to identify the level ground water. This will make it possible to determine the most comfortable spot for storage and drainage.

Installation

Before installation, the territory is marked out in order to determine the location of the trenches. If turns are necessary, then they must be made at a right angle and inspection hatches should be made in these places.

The device of ground channels, trays and gutters should be carried out on open places site. When installing the tray, the soil around it should be tamped to prevent subsidence of the soil.

Pipes are laid with a slope of 1 cm per 1 m of length.

They are best used from PVC, since the material is not subject to corrosion. Pipes are laid in a trench, into which crushed stone and sand are first poured, geotextiles are spread.

Then the pipe is completely wrapped with geomaterial and the trench is covered with excavated soil.

Connections are made with couplings of suitable size and type.

Finally install the receiver.

Installation is carried out with a slope towards the drive.

If the elements of the system pass under functional areas(entrance, parking lot), then additional reinforcement in the form of an overlap with further backfilling will be required.

cleaning function

A storm water drainage system, unlike a septic tank, does not need deep cleaning. Water in this case can be drained into the ground, the nearest stream, ravine or used for irrigation.

At the same time, without violating sanitary and hygienic standards and soil ecology. But basic filtration is necessary, for which sand traps are used that trap various debris, stones, leaves, and so on. Also, the pipes are periodically washed with the pressure of the jet using a pump. The flow can remove contaminants in hard-to-reach places. The drive is cleaned separately using disinfectants.

The construction market offers all sorts of options storm sewers, so you can use any configuration. The most reliable is considered a trench system using trays, wells, a collector, and filter membranes. But it is intended for a large area, for small area an open storm drain around the perimeter of the house is suitable. The drain can be connected to sewer septic tank with multi-stage biological wastewater treatment.

Only rain and melt water do not need fine filtration. For them, it is enough to equip the system with gratings and filters, but they must be cleaned mechanically, otherwise the channels may become clogged, causing flooding of the territory.

Unusual do-it-yourself storm sewer - video