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When planning garden beds, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have more than once had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason may be trivial - an inconvenient neighborhood, so you need to know what can be planted with and what not.

This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a vegetable garden, because the growth and development of both crops depends on which plant is planted in close proximity, and what is important is their fruiting.

When landing, taking into account compatibility, it is quite possible increase productivity by 15-20%. You should be especially careful when choosing a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables in one garden bed or greenhouse.

Approximately the same growing conditions make it easier to care for shoots:

• lighting intensity;
• watering mode;
• preparing the soil for planting;
• introduction of fertilizing.

If you plant bad neighbors- this is fraught with the following consequences:

• attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
• fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
• Negative influence waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.

Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of nearby plants.

To make planning easier, they draw up a plan for the garden, dividing it into beds for vegetables and berry crops before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in open ground are taken into account.

What can you plant next to potatoes?

One of the most popular vegetables, which is included in the list basic products for winter preparations. Before it is planted, its predecessors are taken into account.

The best are considered:

• carrot;
• green manure;
• cucumber;
• legumes;
• pepper;
• cabbage;
• beet.

Not worth it use the same area annually, get good harvest It won't work out with this kind of planning. Low rates of fruiting of potatoes are also noted if they are placed on a former tomato bed.

In relation to its neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The most best compatibility noted only with beans.

The vegetable does not like to be friends with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And you definitely shouldn’t place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. The root crop gets along well with other plants.

Neighbors for tomatoes

A favorable place for growing tomatoes is considered to be areas where the following crops were previously grown:

• cauliflower;
• turnip;
• cucumber;
• greenery;
• carrot;
• beet.

Among worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, therefore, you should not use a former tomato bed for tomato seedlings.

• beans;
• radish;
• corn;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• pepper;
• onions and other green vegetables.

There is no negative impact on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, and spinach.

Planting peppers with other vegetables

When planting pepper, it is worth considering its varietal characteristics. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to prevent cross pollination. The most suitable predecessors are:

• legumes;
• cabbage (early varieties);
• greenery;
• cucumbers;
• wheat (winter);
• perennial herbs.

Not worth it choose areas after potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants in the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.

Arranging a bed of peppers Can close to the following crops:

• carrots;
• basil
• onions;
• coriander.

If in decorative purposes or plant marigolds, oregano, and nasturtium as preventive measures against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And you should avoid proximity to fennel, beans and kohlrabi.

cucumbers

The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And the predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.

Has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown interspersed.

The following have a beneficial effect on the development of crunches: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula placed between the rows will create reliable protection from insects feeding on young cucumber leaves.

Recommended from proximity to potatoes, radishes and tomatoes refuse, plants have a negative effect on each other.

Cabbage

Cabbage planting is planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. And fodder beet and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered bad predecessors.

It’s easy to choose a cabbage companion for your immediate surroundings fit many plants:

• beet;
• beans;
• sage;
• celery;
• dill;
• salad.

It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit strawberries and tomatoes as companions.

Good neighbors for carrots in the garden

When choosing a place for sowing carrots, preference is given to the following predecessors:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• potato;
• cabbage;
• leek;
• greenery;
• legumes

Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root vegetable develops weakly, as if it lacks nutrients(although fertilizing is introduced according to schedule).

The carrot bed should be planned in close proximity from such crops:

• garlic;
• tomato;
• radish;
• peas.

Sage, marigolds and scorzonera can be planted between rows to repel pests.

Unfavorable neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.

Zucchini

Everyone's favorite zucchini bear fruit well on the soil after legumes and early varieties of cabbage. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.

And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage late date maturation is considered most unsuccessful.

Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to the following plants:

• beans;
• corn;
• peas;
• beans.

Pumpkin

Disembarkation rules pumpkins in many ways similar to zucchini, they have the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is slightly expanded; additional tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers can be planted.

The pumpkin crop only tolerates potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.

Beet

Beet sowing can be done on former beds:

• carrots;
• potatoes;
• cucumbers;
• Luke;
• greenery

The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, there is a decrease in weed growth.

Beets and onions are a good combination

You can safely add: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, and onions to beets. To repel insects, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano between the rows.

• potato;
• corn;
• spinach;
• bulb onions;
• carrot.

Growing in a garden with other neighbors does not cause any particular concern.

Where to plant strawberries in open ground

Strawberry crop does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:

• parsley;
• radish;
• garlic;
• legumes;
• corn;
• carrot;
• dill, etc.

You should refuse to use a plot for strawberries if there is were previously grown:

• potato;
• tomatoes, peppers;
• eggplant;
• cabbage;
• raspberries

Arranging vegetable beds, as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:

• spinach;
• salad;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• carrot.

The sweet berry will also be comfortable with other plants, since there is no obvious competition between them.

What crops are suitable for proximity to eggplants?

When choosing a place to plant eggplants, preference should be given to the following predecessors: onions, cucumbers, cabbage early dates ripening, perennial herbs.

From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to follow the rules of crop rotation, It is impossible to place and grow a crop in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).

When planning an eggplant bed Can select as companions:

• peas;
• beans;
• basil;
• salad;
• tarragon;
• thyme.

The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of its neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions on combining.

Peas and beans

The best predecessors for peas and beans, root vegetables are considered vegetable crops, cabbage, members of the pumpkin family. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil when growing, so after them you can grow almost anything.

Not worth it When organizing a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to fungal infections and contamination with carrion.

When selecting companions, first of all, the proximity to each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors:

• attracting pests;
• interweaving of stems;
• possibility of cross-pollination.

The most suitable for close proximity are:

• kohlrabi;
• carrot;
• salad;
• radish;
• celery;
• corn;
• cabbage;
• potato.

Planting with other crops has no special restrictions.

Greenery

When selecting precursors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes and vegetable root vegetables.

Not recommended plant greens after umbrella crops; the relatedness of the plants indicates their identical nutritional needs. Because of this, the yield will decrease significantly every year.

Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and others green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for growing together: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. It is allowed to be adjacent to greenery early varieties potatoes and representatives of legumes.

Crops table

It is useful to supplement the gardener’s diary with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.

In red indicates incompatibility of cultures, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. Colorless window indicates the neutrality of interaction between plants, which does not exclude their proximity in the garden.

There is absolutely no difficulty in planning beds if you think everything through in advance. Autumn processing soil cultivation should be carried out taking into account the agricultural technology of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it next season.

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, next year- pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, then tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.

The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early White cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Among herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, strong odor masking the smell of cabbage. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and different types salad, Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and the onion - a carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevines. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged kidney mite, if you plant onions between the bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soybean is friendly with all crops.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold in carnations.

Apple - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;

Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage from the gooseberry moth);

Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;

The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its fumes cultivated plants(apple tree, corn);

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.

Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;

Approximate set general requirements to companions like this:

• they must be from different families, otherwise they will “crowd” at a common feeder, spread common diseases and attract common pests;
• they must have significantly different vegetative characteristics so that resource needs arise at different times, so that they do not shade each other and allow for more efficient use of the land;
• it is desirable that the plants suppress and not spread diseases of the companion; the plants should repel harmful insects and attract insects that are beneficial to the companion;
• plants must be compatible with each other.

Culture	Good companions	Bad companions
cucumbers	Radishes, peas, celery, lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, sunflower, corn, marigolds	Sage, dill, mint, fennel
Tomatoes	Garlic, basil, carrots, onions, parsley, peas, sage, cabbage, marigolds, spinach, lettuce	Potatoes, fennel
Pepper	Basil, carrots, lovage, oregano, marjoram, onion, marigold, coriander, catnip, nasturtium	Fennel, kohlrabi, beans
Watermelon and melons	Corn, peas, radishes, beets, sunflowers	cucumbers
Eggplant	Peas, beans, lettuce, basil, tarragon, thyme
Brussels cabbage	Celery beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtiums, potatoes, sage, chamomile	Lettuce, strawberry, tomatoes
Peas	Carrots, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, lettuce, radishes, spinach, tomatoes, potatoes	Onion garlic
Zucchini	Beans, corn, mint, nasturtiums, radishes	Potato
Cabbage	Beans, beets, celery, chamomile, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, onions, oregano, potatoes, sage.	Strawberry, tomatoes
Potato	Beans, cabbage, corn, lettuce, onions, marigolds, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax	Tomatoes cucumbers, sunflower, pumpkin
Kohlrabi	Beets, onions, cucumbers, dill, mint, sage	Beans, tomatoes
Corn	Peas, melon, pumpkin, beans, soybeans, sunflower, lupine
Onion	Cabbage, potatoes, strawberries. Carrots, lettuce, beets, tomatoes	Peas, beans, sage
Leek	Carrots, celery	Beans, peas
Carrot	Onions, leeks, garlic, tomatoes, beans, radishes, peas, scorzonera, sage	Dill, anise
Radish	Cucumbers, beans, peas, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, pumpkin, tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, onions	Hyssop
Salad	Strawberries, radishes, beets, cabbage, peas, carrots, cucumbers, beans, tomatoes, clover
Beet	Cabbage, kohlrabi, onion, mint, catnip	Climbing beans
Celery	Onions, leeks, tomatoes, beans, cabbage
Pumpkin	Corn, beans, sunflower, peas, tomatoes, radishes, nasturtium, mint	Potato
Beans	Corn, cabbage, cauliflower, beets, pumpkin, carrots, tomatoes, strawberries, savory, nasturtium, borage, marigolds	Fennel, garlic, leek
Cauliflower	Potatoes, radishes, onions, beets, beans, celery, dill, chamomile, mint, hyssop, nasturtium, oregano	Tomatoes, strawberry
Garlic	Tomatoes, carrots, eggplants, cabbage	Peas, beans
Spinach	Eggplants, peas, onions, cabbage, celery, peppers

To facilitate the sharing of such a resource as light, you can combine plants of different heights, and as a short companion you need to choose a plant that benefits from some shading. Let’s say, in a pair of carrots + tomatoes, tall tomatoes will, of course, cover the carrots, and in the heat that’s all they need.

Satisfied with cucumbers, pumpkins, beans, planted over corn or sunflowers, and the sparse shadow cast by tall neighbors. Cabbage not only helps the salad grow better in its shade, but also makes it more tender and crunchy.

It is easy to separate into different levels and root systems neighboring plants. Carrots and onions, sunflowers and beans, and some other pairs have different root locations. So there is simply no competition in the distribution of nutrients and moisture. Moreover, one plant can feed another. For example, nitrogen, which accumulates in nodules on roots leguminous plants, is only partially consumed by the “owners” - the lion’s share goes to the neighbors.

As for suppressing companion diseases, the list known facts this kind is small.

Potatoes benefit from the proximity of corn, beans, and onions, because they prevent the proliferation of late blight spores - destructive fungal disease. But the proximity of sunflowers, pumpkins, and cucumbers, on the contrary, is harmful; these plants, invulnerable to late blight, can nevertheless be hosts for it.

In this sense, cucumbers are extremely “ungrateful” - they thrive on potatoes. I witnessed how potatoes saved cucumbers planted on them during the epiphytosis of powdery mildew. From joint plantings Unusual benefits can be obtained from many combinations of companions. The most important of them is the mutual protection of plants from pests.

Here's an example: you can plant a separate bed of onions and a bed of carrots. The first one will be covered with onion feathers for about two months, then they will begin to dry out, and after harvesting the soil will lie completely bare until next spring. Is this a familiar picture? The second bed with slowly growing carrots will be practically bare until early summer, and only by the end of summer will the leaves cover the ground.

Now let’s plant both beds with onions and carrots mixed; a row of onions, a row of carrots. The row spacing can even be reduced, say, from 30 to 25 cm. The soil will be covered for almost the entire growing season; first with onions, then with carrots. And if, after removing the carrots, you do not “clean the bed, but scatter the tops over it, then the bed will go into the winter covered. How many benefits! Due to the fact that it is covered more tightly, it will dry out and overheat less, and carrots, which develop better in a cool environment, will naturally produce a larger harvest.

However, the yield of both crops will increase. Both onions and carrots expand their feeding areas; they can overlap because these cultures have different “menus” at any given time. When, for example, the bulbs are filled, the carrots vegetate wildly. At this time, onions need increased doses of potassium and phosphorus, and carrots need nitrogen.

So they have no reason to “fight at the bowl.” They simply make better use of available resources. The cultivated area is used more efficiently, a larger volume of tops is produced for compost or mulch, and the soil, which is denser and longer covered, is at less risk of erosion.

There is also a surprise: onions repel carrot root flies, and carrots repel onion flies. It means. That the harvest of both crops will be cleaner and higher. When we first tried planting onions and carrots together. They were amazed at the purity of the harvest. And we had something to compare with - we had previously seen carrots disfigured by the larvae of the carrot root fly, and onions with layers beginning to rot from the bottom, affected by the larvae of the onion fly.

Insect pests find prey plants mainly by smell; The cabbage cutter is attracted by the smell of mustard oil emitted by plants of the cruciferous family, the onion fly by the smell of volatile sulfur compounds emitted by onion plants, and so on. The idea of ​​protecting one plant from pests by others is to mask the smell of the victim plant as “alien,” repulsive.

Onions, leeks, and garlic mask carrots and celery from the carrot fly with the aroma of sulfur compounds, beans from the bean beetle, and potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle. Tomatoes that produce volatile solanine. Repels flea beetles, white cabbage flies, and cabbage cutworms. Radishes repel cucumber beetles and root flies.

Many pests are repelled by herbs. Basil confuses the tomato hornworm and many other pests. Mint repels cabbage cutworms from cabbage. Fennel and anise repel aphids, coriander and catnip repel the Colorado potato beetle.

Useful work make flowers. Nasturtium suppresses the cabbage cutworm, white flies, the Colorado potato beetle, the pumpkin bug, marigold suppresses the Colorado potato beetle, and calendula suppresses the tomato hornworm. All these observations can help in choosing the right plants for a particular garden and the tastes of its owner.

In the celery family, dill, fennel, cumin, anise, parsley and celery left in the second year and blooming, and carrot mother plants with small flowers conveniently grouped into umbrellas have great attractive power.

Insects are attracted by Lamiaceae, which have fragrant foliage and two-lipped flowers convenient for collecting pollen and nectar: ​​basil marjoram, oregano, mint, sage, thyme, lemon balm, hyssop, catnip. It is also impossible not to mention the mass attraction beneficial insects many cover crops - buckwheat, clover, vetch.

The practice of using plants alone to lure pests is quite popular. For example, it is often recommended to plant an eggplant or fragrant tobacco bush for every 15-20 potato bushes; the Colorado potato beetle selects these delicacies, concentrates on them, and this makes their destruction easier. Rare bushes of black nightshade or datura are even more effective on potatoes. They especially attract the Colorado potato beetle, including females, who lay eggs here. The hatched splinters are trapped: the host plant is poisonous, and the larva is not able to change its host.

Nasturtium attracts aphids from other plants. Hyssop and mustard attract cabbage butterflies, and the caterpillars that appear on them are trapped.

Mixed vegetable plantings

Creating diversity is another function of joint planting, which ultimately works to protect plants from pests and diseases. How striking is the contrast between natural systems- forests and steppes - and our vegetable gardens, where at most 1-2 dozen plants are collected. But large groups of similar plants are the first targets of pests. Increasing the variety of plants in your garden is an effective way to minimize pest problems.

Have you noticed the front gardens of many village houses? What do they not have? Grapes, strawberries, parsley, all kinds of onions, carrots, chrysanthemums, roses, Chernobrivtsy, dill, mint, sorrel, majora. Not limp, not gnawed. And the more neglected, the healthier it is.

A simple, effective and pleasing way to increase diversity is by planting flowers. Unpretentious, requiring almost no care. There are flowers in our gardens, but rarely and in small quantities. Marigolds, calendula, nasturtium, chamomile, asters, chrysanthemums, majors - all of them are unpretentious and are able to repay a hundredfold for the space allocated to them in the garden.

About unpretentiousness is not mentioned for the sake of a nice word - on packets of nasturtium seeds, for example, a direct warning is printed that it prefers poor soil, that in rich soil you will get a lot of foliage in which you will not find flowers.

The leader among crops that are friendly to neighbors is beans; it is easier to list those who feel bad about beans. Let's start with this. All types of beans show a dislike for onions, in climbing beans for kohlrabi, beets and sunflowers, in bush beans for fennel. All! There is no information about other unpleasant bean plants, but it has a lot of friends.

Beans grow well with cabbage, cauliflower, and beets; the proximity to carrots is especially beneficial for beans, which helps the beans grow. Savory with green beans improves the growth of beans and improves their taste. By the way, they are good together and in a pan. A moderate amount of beans, planted along with celery and rhea, favors the growth of the whole trinity.

Cozy climbing beans in corn: the corn provides support for the beans, and the beans, in gratitude, feed them with nitrogen from the nodules on the roots. The proximity of the beans and cucumber provides many mutual benefits. And even with the incredibly difficult strawberries, the beans form a mutually beneficial alliance - both grow better.

Onions are almost as tolerant of their neighbors; only beans and peas are unpleasant to them. With great mutual pleasure, onions and all the cabbages grow nearby. Onions go well with beets, strawberries, lettuce, savory, and celery. Rarely sown chamomile helps onions to grow, and a couple of onions and carrots have literally become textbook.

Bush beans, onions, lettuce, and cabbage vegetables (with the exception of mustard) are friendly with beets. In addition to mustard, beets are oppressed by climbing beans.

Almost the entire cabbage family has the same friends and enemies, pests and diseases. For this family, the biggest problems are the cabbage white butterfly and the cabbage moth. The best protectors against this scourge are aromatic plants - hyssop, thyme, dill, fennel, mint, sage. Cabbage is also good with onions, potatoes, and beets. They don’t like the proximity of climbing beans, tomatoes, strawberries; clover and chamomile repel cabbage pests. They camouflage the smell of cabbage and decorate the cabbage bed.

A few flowering wormwood bushes in a cabbage bed would also provide significant assistance in repelling cabbage pests. Having them is not a problem, but you need to take care of them in advance. It is worth recalling that cabbage growing in soil rich in organic matter is less attractive to pests.

Carrots need neighbors to scare them away worst enemy- carrot fly, the larvae of which attack the roots of young plants. In addition to the already mentioned onions, tomatoes and scorzonera do this job. Carrot flies and sage and hyssop work well to repel carrot flies, but these perennials must first be adjusted to carrot bed.

Celery grows well with onions, tomatoes, and cabbage. Bush beans and celery help each other.

Cucumbers grow well in corn. It gives them light shade and also prevents wilt (withering). The proximity of cucumbers and potatoes is undesirable - cucumbers can act as a host for late blight. They love cucumbers, beans, peas, and sunflowers. It’s good to throw a couple of radish seeds into the hole of the cucumbers - let it grow, shoot, bloom and scare away the cucumber beetle and root fly. Sometimes cucumbers are sown in a circle formed by radish plants.

Compatibility table for vegetables in the herb garden

Spice	Good companions	Bad companions
Anise	Beans, coriander	Carrot
Basil	Tomatoes, cabbage, beans
borage	Tomatoes, strawberries, cabbage
Oregano	Cabbage, cucumbers
Hyssop	Almost all plants	Radish
Coriander (cilantro)	Potatoes, anise, cumin	Fennel
Lovage	Beans, tomatoes
Marjoram	All plants
Mint	All plants
Parsley	Tomatoes, carrots
Chamomile	Onions, cucumbers, cabbage, mint
Caraway	Peas	Fennel
Yarrow	All plants
Dill	Cabbage, onion, lettuce	Tomatoes, carrots, fennel
Fennel		Tomatoes, beans, dill, coriander, cumin
Savory	Onion beans
Thyme	All plants
Sage	Tomatoes, strawberries, cabbage, carrots, marjoram	Onions, cucumbers
Tarragon (tarragon)	All plants
Melissa	All plants

The harvest at the dacha depends not only on the care of the owners of six acres. My big mistake was planting incompatible crops next to each other. I looked for the reasons for the poor development of plants in lighting and fertilizing, until I learned that the proximity of vegetables in the beds is of great importance.

This topic is related to crop rotation. I studied: in what order to plant vegetables and flowers, as well as how to properly place them in the garden bed. Some information became a revelation for me.

For example, the fight against bindweed will end in victory if marigolds are planted. The weed does not tolerate it and dies from aromatic substances released into the air.

1. Main advantage proper landing vegetable crops – protection from insects. Plants emit volatile aromatic compounds into the air that are invisible to humans. For harmful insects, this smell becomes a deterrent. When planning planting in the spring, I take this feature of plants into account. As a result, there are fewer pests on six acres; there is also no need to buy and use insecticides.
2. Green manures or plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen are good neighbors in the garden for almost any vegetable. Phacelia also drives away the weevil, and the beans slightly shade the plantings from the scorching sun.

Plant incompatibility

This rule also applies to pests. Five years ago, pepper seedlings at home became infected with aphids. We transferred the plants to the dacha and treated them with the preparation; they immediately planted them in a separate greenhouse, away from the potatoes. If they had not done so, then all representatives of the Solanaceae would be infected with aphids

I take into account the compatibility of vegetables and their ability to absorb substances from the soil.

Sometimes the neighborhood greatly depletes the land, which affects the yield of tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, and onions.

Neighborhood rules in the garden

I always pay special attention to vegetables that are easily affected by diseases and pests. For them, the presence of a good neighbor is the key to full development and productivity. A table will help you decide on the choice of crops for your garden beds.

Before making recommendations for each type of vegetable, I advise you to watch the video, which talks about compacting plantings and gives advice on crops, what to plant with what. garden plot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEeDNTSy1_g

Cabbage

Good neighbors cabbages are green leafy crops. I plant peppermint along the edges of the bed, which repels the voracious caterpillar and aphids. In addition, the aromatic plant improves the taste of cabbage.

Eggplant

The southern vegetable is susceptible to attack by the Colorado potato beetle. Bush beans will repel the pest. Another protector of the blue ones is thyme. The plant emits a light aroma during the formation of flowers and after flowering.

Beans

To make the cucumbers grow, I plant beans next to them. They also help the development of corn, potatoes, and radishes. These plants especially need nitrogen released by the root system of the legume representative.

To protect the beans from harmful insects, I plant basil nearby. The spicy plant does not allow the bean weevil to grow. If there is no basil, then it can be replaced with other aromatic herbs: lavender, oregano, marigold, nasturtium.

I take into account the incompatibility of beans with vegetables. Onions and their varieties: leeks, chives have a negative effect. Garlic also does not tolerate the presence of beans nearby.

Grape

Note! Do not grow onions and cabbage next to grapes.

Peas

Another supplier of nitrogen to vegetables is peas. Considering that the plant vines will provide shade, I place them on the north side, and turnips, carrots, and cucumbers are planted on the south side. Other good neighbors of peas are radishes, radishes, and leafy crops such as lettuce.

Plants that secrete phytoncides will inhibit the development of peas: onions and garlic, as well as tomatoes with specific aroma. I make sure there is no wormwood nearby.

Cabbage

Cabbage works well with regular beans and celery, which release aromatic substances that repel the flea beetle. Dill has similar properties, the smell of which is feared by cabbage and aphids. Borage will help against snail infestation.

When planting two rows of cabbage in a garden bed, I alternate them with planting herbs. In addition to dill and celery, which repel insects, thyme, oregano, rosemary, hyssop, and various types of sage have similar properties.

Important! Cabbage's unfortunate neighbor is parsley. Take this into account when drawing up your planting plan.

Potato

I usually plant 2-3 acres of potatoes per personal plot. Special plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen help the bushes, and then the tubers, grow and strengthen. These include beans, beans and phacelia. Bush beans will protect the second bread from the Colorado potato beetle.

When planting green manure over potatoes, you must not overdo it so that the neighbors grow rarely, but accurately. For 2-3 potato bushes you need one phacelia or bean bush.

Strawberry

Traditionally, in the middle of the strawberry bed, garlic and parsley grow, which become protectors of the bushes from pests, for example, from slugs.

Beetroot

Summer residents should know what to plant beets with in the garden. Practice shows perfect combination beets with potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans and spinach. The presence of other crops nearby also favors the root crop. Moreover, there is a hypothesis that beets release antibiotics into the soil, and they make carrots healthier.

Corn

Corn, which is demanding on soil fertility, will be happy to be next to beans. The work of the green manure root system to release nitrogen into the ground will be appreciated. Cucumbers will produce a good harvest if planted around uplifting corn stalks. And the cobs are formed larger than before. The enemies of corn are celery and beets.

Onions and carrots

I don’t experiment and follow the classic rule of agricultural technology for vegetable crops - I plant carrots next to the onions. Both release aromatic volatile compounds into the air that onion and carrot flies do not like.

cucumbers

Next to the greenhouse where cucumbers grow, I plant various types beans. Good neighbors are cabbage, garlic, radishes, celery, spinach, fennel.

Pepper

The pepper grows in a separate greenhouse, and 2-3 basil bushes will contribute to better fruit set.

Tomatoes

Greenhouse tomatoes favorably perceive the presence of carrots nearby. I plant them along the wall of the building. For 6 tomato bushes you need one root crop so that the tops do not shade the plants. During the garden season, tomatoes will bring a good harvest, and carrots will amaze you with the size of the root crop.

Zucchini

The best neighbors of zucchini: onions, garlic, legumes. Under no circumstances do I plant representatives of the Pumpkin family next to each other: squash and pumpkin, as well as cucumbers.

When drawing up an annual plan for the garden and its plantings, I follow the rules for the proximity of crops. In the spring, the diagram becomes a useful aid and significantly saves time when choosing a place for vegetables.