To keep a rabbit you need a cage. Almost an axiom. But this axiom is not easy to put into practice in all regions, since factory-made cells are not available for sale there, and ordering from afar is expensive. There is only one solution: make a cage yourself. From this article you will learn how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands using the example of Tsvetkov, Komov-Kuzmin, Mikhailov and Zolotukhin’s schemes with a comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Models of cells, drawings for them, how to choose material for a cell

The simplest cages: four walls, a tray, a box for a nest - often do not satisfy rabbit breeders who breed animals in large quantities. It’s difficult to keep such cells clean; you want more automation. Professional livestock specialists and amateur rabbit breeders are trying their best to improve cages and automate the process of caring for rabbits. To date, several projects are known rabbit cells, named after their designers:

• Zolotukhina;
• Mikhailova;
• Komova-Kuzmina;
• Tsvetkova.

Each project has its own advantages and disadvantages in design, material costs and use.

Characteristics of rabbit cages of various projects.

Comparison of the Tsvetkov, Komov-Kuzmin, Mikhailov and Zolotukhin schemes with a comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Project name	Material	Advantages	Flaws
Professional Mikhailov cages	Metal; some craftsmen make it from wood	Forced ventilation from the top ventilation pipe; winter heating of the queen cell and heating of the drinking bowl; convenient system manure collection	Very complex project with many unnecessary details that even a specialist gets confused about; “dead” zones that are difficult to clean and collect dirt; other shortcomings are the same as in Tsvetkov’s project
Professional Tsvetkov cells	Metal, sometimes wood	Electric heating of the drinking bowl and a convenient manure collection system are provided; simpler project compared to Mikhailov cells	Pallet assembly floor; urine and smeared manure remain on the wide slats; the development is intended for a forest zone; lack of high-quality wind protection; occupy large area; drinking bowls become very dirty
Amateur project of Komov-Kuzmin	Metal or wood	The manger is closed with a door; vacuum drinkers	Lack of queen cell; lack of electric heating of the drinking bowl;
Zolotukhin project	Wood or metal	One of the simplest projects available to beginners; solid floor in the middle of the cage; tilting feeder	Requires insulation in winter; when there is wind, there is a draft from below;
Folk Design Lattice Cage	Metal grid	Easy to manufacture; very hygienic and hassle-free cleaning; can be made in any size; well suited for fattening beef herds	Unsuitable even for very warm climates with positive temperatures winter temperatures: newborn rabbits die

Tip #1. From Odessa practitioners: when using “Tsvetkovsky” or “Mikhailovsky” cages to eliminate odor, pour a tablespoon of waste into each bucket machine oil. An oil film on the surface of the bucket's contents will prevent the smell from spreading.

The difference between Mikhailov cells and Tsvetkov cells is noticeable only in the drawings.

Drawings and appearance of Mikhailov cells.

There are a lot of details in the drawings and it is often impossible to understand what belongs to what, while a high-quality drawing should be “transparent”.

There are a lot of details in the drawings and it is often impossible to understand what belongs to what, while a high-quality drawing should be “transparent”
Mikhailov cages on a rabbit farm in a forest area where trees dampen the wind.

Almost a copy of the Mikhailov cell with the same design flaws is the Tsvetkov cell. But the blueprints for this cell project are simpler. Separate drawings are devoted to individual details. In this case, the author did not try to fit the entire cell on one sheet.

Drawings of Tsvetkov's cell and its appearance

General drawing Tsvetkov cells
Above is a drawing of manure collecting cones, below is general form cells.
The queen cell is provided in two versions: as a full-fledged queen cell and as an almost open box. The second option will be preferable in summer, the first in winter, since heating is normally provided in the winter queen cell.
The bunker feeder is generally no different from similar feeders from other manufacturers.
The drinking bowl has enough successful design, preventing rabbits from getting their paws into the water. The manger is designed in such a way that the rabbit cannot eat all the hay at once or scatter it around the cage, but is forced to pull food out of the bunker one hay at a time, eating constantly, while spending less hay than in a traditional manger.
In 3D projection onto cells, the structure of these cells becomes more clear. On the left is a front view with bunker feeders, on the left is a rear view with queen cells.
Worker cells located in steppe areas. Very large open openings on the façade of the cage provide for the animals fresh air, but in winter the wind chills the cells.

Tip #2. Experienced rabbit breeders who live in open spaces use polycarbonate sheets to protect their cages from the cold, which are screwed to the cages in winter.

The Komov-Kuzmin and Zolotukhin cells are much closer and more understandable to the average amateur, since they were created by amateurs. A lattice cage is even simpler, but it is also the most unsuitable for rabbits.

The Komov-Kuzmin cage essentially replicates a standard two-section cage for amateur rabbit breeding
The Zolotukhin cell is even simpler. Even a novice rabbit breeder can repeat it. Instead of a queen cell, it contains a simple septum.

How to make a rabbit cage with your own hands

The following materials can be used for cells:

• wooden boards;
• plywood;
• metal sheets;
• galvanized welded fine mesh;
• stone or brick.

There is no need to use polycarbonate sheets as the main material. In the summer they will create elevated temperature inside the cell. In addition, plastic cracks when exposed to sunlight.

Characteristics of building material suitable for the manufacture of cells

Material	Characteristics
Board	Retains heat well in winter if there are no cracks; in summer it maintains a cooler microclimate than outside; one of the disadvantages is that it cracks under the influence of weather conditions; damaged by insects
Plywood	It is more durable than a board due to its structure; the plywood sheet does not have any cracks that need to be sealed; of the minuses - it warps under the influence of external conditions and is affected by insects
A metal sheet	There are no cracks; galvanized sheet is slightly susceptible to weather conditions; of the minuses - both in summer and winter in a cage without thermal insulation, standing in the open space, hell: icy in winter, hot in summer
Metal grid	Placing a rabbit in such a cage is the same as leaving it to simply live under open air. The mesh does not protect from anything, and since such a cage often lacks shelter, the rabbit experiences additional stress in it.
Stone or brick	It is quite suitable for southern regions with mild winters and hot summers: the stone keeps cool in summer and warm in winter, but it is better to place such cages under a canopy; one of the downsides is that such cells cannot be cleaned properly

Cells practically unsuitable for breeding. Suitable only for fattening for slaughter.

Insulation materials used for cages

Insulation materials should be chosen that are harmless to humans and animals. Preferably also cheap. Such insulation can be.

You can build cages for rabbits with your own hands from available materials: unnecessary boards, plywood, chipboard, slate, bricks, metal cutting, tin, etc. The design of the cages also varies, but it is better to choose one that will not take you a lot of time to make and will be convenient for feeding rabbits, inspecting them and regular cleaning.

Types of cages for rabbits and possible materials for DIY work

Not all types of cages can be made with your own hands, but many of them can definitely be made if you know the sizes, have drawings and basic skills. So, what types of houses for the eared tribe exist?

By size and height:

• simple one tier,
• bunk,
• three-tiered,
• multi-tiered.

For which rabbits:

• for young animals,
• females,
• decorative,
• giants and dwarfs, etc.

What materials can it be made from:

• tree,
• metal (iron, etc.),
• metal profile, etc.

Options can be both summer and winter. There are types for keeping outdoors or in an apartment. They can be monolithic or portable, especially if the rabbits are dwarf and kept at home. The houses can also be fattening houses. There are also industrial buildings, but we will not talk about them.

Some options for homemade rabbit houses in the photo

Wooden with mesh
Combined wood and mesh
From metal profiles and wood using sect
Made of wood

Drawings with dimensions of some types of cells

2 tiers
Mikhailov's cage
Simple scheme
Zolotukhin cell

General step-by-step instructions for making it at home

To start rabbit farming, you don’t need any special investments: you can easily make cheap cages for rabbits, drinkers and feeders yourself, hay and branches can be prepared in the summer, root crops and vegetables can be taken from your own garden. The main expenses will be required only for concentrated feed.

Each cage should contain rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament

It is recommended to place adult rabbits and female rabbits with offspring in one- or two-section cages. Standard sizes correct cells for rabbits: length about 100-120 cm, height 50 cm, width about 70 cm. It is better to keep young animals in a group cage, the size of which corresponds to the number of rabbits. For example, for ten little rabbits, a house with the same height and width as indicated above, but up to 170 cm in length, is suitable. It should be remembered that rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.

Even novice rabbit breeders will find it easy to figure out how to build a rabbit cage consisting of two sections.

Step-by-step production of cages for rabbits:

When keeping rabbits outdoors, the cages should be installed on bars so that they rise seventy centimeters above the ground. This will protect the lop-eared ones from rodents and pets, and it will be much more convenient to maintain the houses. By constructing a cage from scrap materials, you get an original house for your pets for almost free.

Other options for rabbit houses

If the proposed tips do not adequately describe the picture of the upcoming work, you should pay attention to the most popular types of cages for keeping and breeding rabbits. They are used by experienced farmers.

Family block - three-section cage

Making a three-section cage for rabbits may seem a little more complicated, the drawings of which are presented in the tab with photographs. But in such family blocks It is very convenient to breed rabbits: the breeder rabbit lives in the central compartment of the cage, and the females live on the sides. Wooden partitions Between the compartments, the cages have manholes with plywood latches, designed to make it easy to place females for mating with a male and return them back to their compartments.

It is very convenient to raise rabbits in such family blocks

The frame can be made from bars, and the side walls, back, nest compartments with doors and partitions can be made from wide lining. For the front wall it is used metal grid. In nesting compartments, it is advisable to provide an attic - free space between the ceiling and common roof, where female rabbits can rest from their offspring. An additional convenience of the design is the thoughtful arrangement of feeders and drinkers - the food and water in them are not contaminated, and they can be filled from the outside.

Mikhailov's mini-farms - an easy way to raise little rabbits

One of the most effective ways rabbit breeding are Mikhailov's mini-farms, which provide intensive breeding of animals with minimal care from the rabbit breeder. The thoughtful design of Mikhailov's cages provides for automatic cleaning and provision of food for rabbits, heating of water in drinking bowls to the required temperature (which is especially important in winter), and heating of the queen cell to increase the survival rate of newborn rabbits.

Not every rabbit breeder can make Mikhailov cages with his own hands. But if you wish, you can collect complex design according to a scheme that you can easily find on the Internet.

Correct houses according to Zolotukhin’s method

The famous rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin has been successfully breeding rabbits for several decades; such impressive experience helped him develop his own concept of keeping rabbits at home.

Their design is quite simple, and their production requires materials that are found in almost everyone’s household.

Features of Zolotukhin cells:

• the floor in the cages is made solid of slate or boards;
• there are no pallets;
• a narrow strip of mesh flooring is provided only along the rear walls of the cages;
• the rear walls are made at an angle so that the waste of rabbits from the upper tier does not fall on the rabbits of the lower tier;
• there are no special queen cells - the female rabbit arranges the nest herself before giving birth;
• There are grain feeders attached to the doors, which can easily be turned outward for filling.

After watching the video in the tab to the article, you will understand how to make cages for rabbits of the same type as Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. Moreover, their design is quite simple, and their production requires materials that are found in almost everyone’s household.

How to make your own cages for dwarf rabbits

If you decide to have rabbits at home as pets, the issue with cages will be resolved differently. In pet stores you can now find a variety of cages for decorative rabbits, but you don’t have to spend money on buying them - making a cage for a small pet rabbit will take very little time.

A cage for a dwarf rabbit is made from two side walls 70x70 cm and a back wall 55 cm high, 100 cm long. The back wall must be secured so that there is a gap of 15 cm under the cage. Nail meter slats to the bottom of the cage and fasten a metal one on top of them grid. You also need to nail a mesh onto the front door. Make a mesh lid with hinges and a handle. Place a tray under the cage - the cage for the dwarf rabbit is ready! Material updated 03/17/2017

Subsistence farming is a very troublesome business, requiring a high level of labor, responsibility and care from its owners. However, this is a very rewarding occupation, and also, contrary to the opinion of many, very profitable. Especially if the farm is large and includes breeding chickens, pigs, goats and other animals.

Rabbits continue to be the most popular in past years and today. These animals are distinguished by their unpretentiousness both in maintenance and in food. Especially in comparison with other types of pets. The only point in their breeding that requires mandatory implementation is special cages for rabbits, since it will not be possible to place these creatures in ordinary sheds.

It should be understood that rabbits are The animals are quite fragile and prone to high level mortality in conditions, so to speak, of a hostel.

Cell sizes

Cells can be purchased either in specialized stores or build it yourself. Before you start building cages for rabbits with your own hands, you need to prepare and find a suitable drawing according to which the work will be carried out. You can draw it yourself or choose from the many options that abound on the World Wide Web. The main thing that novice rabbit breeders should take into account is that one cage will not be enough. Rabbits will need at least three or four cages.

With cages for adult rabbits, things are a little different. Two adult rabbits can, without any complications both in relation to themselves and in relation to other individuals and vital processes, fit into a dwelling of two sections. Minimum dimensions two-section cages must be within the following limits:

• length – 140 cm (this is the minimum, optimally 210-240 cm);
• width – 60-70 cm;
• height – 50-70 cm.

If for some reason it is not possible to allocate the required area for these animals, then it is permissible to build a cage on two floors. Between two sections there must be a feeder, in which you will need to put grass and hay.

Rabbits can be kept in groups, if they are not adults, but young ones: rabbits, individuals in “teenage” and “adolescent” age. They require cages of different sizes. The permissible housing dimensions for such rabbits must be kept within the following limits:

• length – 200-300 cm;
• width – 100 cm;
• height – 35-60 cm.

In this case, the dimensions are approximate, but it will be easy to choose them yourself, based on the following data: for each unit of young animals it is necessary to allocate an area of ​​at least 0.12 m2. The indicated dimensions will provide the animals with relatively comfortable conditions life. Young animals do not need to be placed in a separate cage. But you still have to calculate the amount of area per individual.

Housing for a mother rabbit with her babies

Baby rabbit cages that are specifically designed for the purpose of breeding these animals will be different from other cages. They should be divided into two parts, one of which will be the feed part, the second – the uterine part. Cages should have partitions, separating one “room” from another. It is also necessary to provide a passage from one “room” to another.

The hole should be located 10-16 cm above the floor. This precaution is necessary so that the kids cannot escape from the cage. Rabbit cages or “queen cages” should have the following dimensions:

• width – 400 cm;
• length – 400 cm;
• height – 20 cm.

The female rabbit is placed in such a dwelling right before the birth.

Cage for giant rabbits

If giant rabbits are raised, then the sizes indicated above will not be suitable. These individuals require different conditions. To the giant rabbits It is no longer necessary to construct enclosures, but houses. In all other “buildings” it will be too crowded for them. Houses for breeding giant rabbits must meet the following parameters:

• length – 1.7 m;
• width – 0.75 m;
• height – 0.55 m.

DIY rabbit cage: step-by-step instructions

If you decide to build a rabbit cage with your own hands rather than buy one, then the step-by-step instructions will help you a lot. Will be given here example of the simplest cell, which can only be used in open areas. You can make the project in the drawing yourself, using the following dimensions of the rabbit cage as guidelines:

• length – 1.5 m;
• width – 0.7 m;
• height – 0.7 m.

For rabbits, as a rule, they try to make paired cages. This allows you to save material without harming the animals. The frame is taken as a basis: 3 * 0.7 m, height 1.2 m in front, and 1 m in back. It is not difficult to make a drawing of such a cell.

Step-by-step instructions for making a cage for rabbits are laid out in several stages.

Preparatory stage

First you should prepare the following materials:

• 2 sheets of plywood 1.5 * 1.5 m and 10 mm thick;
• wooden blocks 3 m long, 3*5 cm thick – 10 pieces;
• metal mesh cell size 15 mm - 3 meters;
• self-tapping screws of 30 and 70 mm – 2 kg;
• available tools for work.

The first stage is making a frame for the cage

On a hard surface, without bumps, we assemble the frame for the future cell. We maintain a size of 3*0.7 m high, 1.2 m front wall and 1 m back wall. Make sure that the frame is equipped with legs.

The second stage is filling the frame

We attach a mesh to the floor of the future cage. It’s okay if it doesn’t reach the edges of the frame, since that’s where we’ll place the queen cell. Let's make sure that the floor of the queen cell is solid.

The third stage - creating the back wall

It will need to be cut out of plywood to a pre-selected size and secured over the entire area with self-tapping screws. We fasten the remaining plywood sheets along the edges where there is no mesh. These will be the queen cells.

The fourth stage - creating queen cells

We attach a block vertically to the floor and screw the wall to it. We make a hole in it. We also attach bars to the walls of the queen cell, and on them, in turn, we put the lid of the queen cell. The main cell is ready. You can already start using it. If sources are needed, then for their manufacture see the instructions below.

Making queen cells for rabbits

In fact, we already have space for the queen cell; all that remains is to arrange it correctly.

Making a feeder

For feeding we will have special device. In the middle of the space allocated for it, we will vertically attach a block, and attach two feeders to it. Each should have a height and width of 7 cm and 30 cm. Above the feeder we will attach 2 bars at a distance of 20 cm, which will be guides. Now we are building a plywood frame for the feed. This will be a special device, the top of which will be reduced under the guides, and the bottom will be placed directly in the feeder. Now you need to build a hay feeder.

Making a hay feeder

At this stage of work we will need steel wire. Free space line the source with plywood. We install the roof, giving it the following overlap: 50 mm in the front and 100 mm in the back and on each side. It is necessary to leave a hole in the middle where food will be added later. It is advisable to install a lid at the top to prevent mice from getting in. Now all that remains is to install the doors. We keep their sizes within 30*50 cm. We use the remains of the chain-link for them.

Now we can congratulate ourselves and our pets: the cage you made with your own hands is ready. For greater success, here are a few useful tips from experienced rabbit breeders.

If you have decided to build rabbit cages with your own hands, then it would be useful to familiarize yourself with some rules for their construction. Otherwise, if mistakes are made, in a few months you will have to redo everything again. To avoid unnecessary labor and time costs, you should adhere to the following rules:

In order to preserve cells for many years, they should be lined with metal. This precaution is necessary due to the fact that rabbits are rodents and they tend to constantly chew through the natural surfaces that surround them. And by covering wooden cages with metal, you can expect that their service life will extend, without exaggeration, by 10 years.

When caring for cells, you should never use antiseptic agents. Otherwise, you can provoke poisoning in animals.

The roof must be firmly protected from moisture. Rabbits are fragile animals and can catch cold quickly. To increase the moisture-proof properties of the roof, it is recommended to use slate.

If you plan to keep rabbits outside and the climatic conditions allow this, then do not cover the roof with metal. Under the influence of sunlight, it will heat up both the roof and all other rooms. Thus, instead of a house you can make an oven for the animals.

As a rule, timber is used for the frame of a cage house for rabbits. Traditionally, its parameters should be 50 mm by 50 mm. For cladding, a chain-link mesh is suitable, the width of the cells is 25 mm by 25 mm. It is well suited for both facades and sidewalls and doors.

It is important to remember that rabbits are susceptible to colds. Drafts are contraindicated for them. Therefore, it is advisable to make one of the walls of the cage-house blank.

To build the floor, use a mesh (chain-link is also suitable), sizes 25*25 mm or 10*25 mm. This prevents feces from accumulating inside the cell. It is collected through cells into a special storage device or rolled out along inclined plane. These measures help to avoid permanent “fecal” coating on the floor. In general, a solid floor should never be used for any rabbit facility.

Very caustic urine is typical for rabbits. It quickly absorbs into any solid floor and leads to rapid rotting of the wood. If it is impossible to make a mesh on the floor, then you can replace it with bars with gaps between them of 50-100 mm. Experienced rabbit breeders recommend cover the floor plywood sheets . This will help protect animals from diseases such as pododermantitis. However, you need to be prepared for the fact that it will need to be regularly pulled out and dried.

Conclusion

If you decide to make a cage with your own hands and at the same time chose the instructions posted above and took into account the information in the advice section, then you can be confident in the success of such a good deed.

Breeding rabbits when properly managed can bring good dividends.

Animal cages must be made of high quality materials. The normal functioning of the animal depends on compliance with these requirements.

The main advantage of rabbits is their unpretentiousness. They have a fairly high resistance to various diseases. A properly constructed home creates a comfortable existence for the animal.

Nursery construction

The correct drawings of cages for rabbits allow you to build a good home for the whole family.

The animal nursery consists of:

• frame;
• ceiling;
• side walls;
• central door;
• feeders.

How to make cages for rabbits with your own hands?

If the finished nursery is located on the street, then the height of the support should be 110 cm. High housing for rabbits helps protect animals from various predators.

The side walls are made of dense plywood or fine mesh. For feeding rabbits, it is recommended to use a fine mesh or thin slats.

The presence of holes allows you to get rid of food debris, thereby preventing their rapid spoilage.

The roof for the cages must be made of durable, waterproof material. Suitable for this: slate, roofing felt; polycarbonate

Materials for the production of housing should not contain sharp edges or chips.

Types of cells

Nursery designs have some differences among themselves.

Mainly:

• cells with queen cell;
• nursery using the technology of I. N. Mikhailov and N. I. Zolotukhin;
• a dwelling with an enclosure for walking animals.

The first version of the cage is a tall structure with two separate sections. One of them is used for feeding, and the other for the nest.

They are separated between a thick sheet of plywood. For normal movement of the animal, a manhole is provided.

An exit for animals is made in the side wall. The entire perimeter of the cage is fenced with a mesh. This helps prevent escape from the nursery area.

The sizes of cages for rabbits are calculated based on their number.

Note!

For intensive breeding of animals, the technique of combining neighboring nurseries is used. To do this, a corridor is made along the back of the cage with additional doors for the male to move around.

Industrial cell designs using Mikhailov technology

They are miniature farms. There is a nest for small rabbits, a place for feeding adult animals, additional ventilation. An additional compartment for waste disposal is made along the lower border.

How to make a similar cage for rabbits? To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the design drawings. Shown in detail here exact dimensions walls and ceiling.

Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique

Nurseries using the Zolotukhin technique are multi-storey departments that can accommodate several families. The design of the rabbit cage provides for additional compartments for feeding and easy cleaning of waste.

The main advantage of this method is to create conditions as close to natural as possible. Little rabbits acquire immunity to various viral diseases. The female independently arranges a warm nest from her down and dry straw.

Stages of cell creation

Do simple cell quite simple for animals.

Note!

To do this, you must follow a strict sequence of actions:

• The frame of the future cage is assembled from the beams. The thickness should be 10 cm in diameter;
• a blank wall is installed at the back of the nursery;
• The sides of the cage are covered with mesh.

For this it is necessary to use small fractions.

• Experienced experts recommend upholstering the side walls with small slats. This will protect the animal from overheating in summer time and freezing in winter;
• The bottom of the nursery is made of a durable sheet of plywood;
• Feeders and additional doors are installed outside the cage. This allows you to easily remove bedding and debris from the animal.

The photo of the rabbit cage shows step by step instructions, which will facilitate the process of constructing a nursery.

Photos of do-it-yourself rabbit cages

The cost of the simplest cage for rabbits in all respects starts from 7,650 rubles (for Moscow and the region). But there is no certainty that the specific cage you like is optimal for keeping (or breeding) rabbits, given the characteristics of the room (territory) in which it will be installed (or outside it), as well as the specifics of caring for pets.

That is why it is more advisable to assemble a cage for keeping rabbits with your own hands, according to your own drawings, especially since it is not very difficult, since in principle rabbits are unpretentious, and they do not need to create any “VIP conditions”. And together with our dear reader, we will figure out how to do everything correctly.

The very first question to ask is what kind of cell (and what for) is required? It may be necessary to build not just one, but several at once. various designs, or even a complex, like a hostel. For those who do not yet have sufficient experience in the field of rabbit breeding, we will give some general explanations. Without this, it will be difficult to choose the most suitable option.

Depending on the purpose, there are some differences in the device circuit and linear parameters.

For adults

• Double.
• Tiered enclosures (usually 2 - 3 levels).
• "Queen cell". This design has a compartment for the mother rabbit, where she is isolated after feeding the young. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon for a mother to eat her offspring.

For young animals

Such cages are intended for rabbits who no longer need mother's milk and are able to feed on their own.

For "teenagers"

Such sections contain young animals aged from 3 months. The most commonly used option, which can accommodate up to 2 – 3 individuals at a time. Recommended dimensions (W x H, in “m”) – 1.2 x 0.4. The length is selected based on the ease of installation indoors (on site). For example, this option.

Looking at the drawings, it becomes clear that there are no exact standard sizes, shapes, design features there are no cells.

Step-by-step instruction

The drawing is drawn up arbitrarily, based on the specifics of keeping the animals. But some recommendations are general and should be followed. Let's look at the step-by-step construction of a cage for rabbits.

Choose a place for a rabbitry

In principle, there are few requirements for placement.

• Once the cages are installed, there should be enough space to look after and care for your pets. And it is necessary, and regular. The peculiarity of rabbits is that they are easily susceptible to diseases, and the illness of one often takes the form of an epidemic, and almost all individuals die.
• The most important thing is no drafts!

Decide on materials and drawing

• All structural elements should not be traumatic or “cold” (the rabbit catches a cold easily). The main materials are (frame) and metal mesh (fencing).
• If the floor is made with a slope, then the steepness is minimal so that the animals do not have difficulty moving (do not slip).
• Jumping up is harmful for pets. Therefore, the maximum height of sections is 35–40 cm.
• The compartment should not be cramped. Based on this, the length is at least 0.8, width is 0.45 m.
• Paints and varnishes cannot be used to treat wooden parts. The rabbit, like its “wild” relative, loves to gnaw wood, and “chemistry”, if it enters the animal’s body, can be fatal.

What to consider:

Features of “street” structures

• It is better to install a double floor, with additional insulation. In this case, the first tier is lattice so that waste does not accumulate in the box, but the second, lower one is made solid.
• The roof should not be covered with metal. It heats up in the sun, and rabbits are quite sensitive to temperature changes. And even in stuffy conditions, they will behave extremely restlessly, only adding to the troubles of the owner.
• The optimal solution is to place the cages not directly on the site (especially on the ground), but to provide stands (supports, legs), that is, to raise the structure above the ground. This will not only protect the animals from possible hypothermia, but will also prevent the appearance of insects and other small animals in the sections.

On a note!

During operation, especially when placing the cage outdoors, the wood will begin to swell. To prevent the structure from deforming, between the door and load-bearing frame a small gap should be provided.

Features of cages installed indoors

• Wild rabbits are burrowing animals. To a pet felt protected, the cage should be made in the form of a house, that is, as closed as possible on all sides. Although it is simpler (and cheaper), it is hardly advisable to mount all the edges of the “box” from the mesh alone.
• To keep a pet in an apartment (residential building), a section of 40 x 70 (cm) is sufficient, since in daytime the animal will still be outside of it.

Probably, the information provided is quite enough to take into account all the nuances of cage installation. Everything else is at your discretion, dear reader.