How to make a rubber-powered helicopter yourself. Balsa rubber-motor helicopter The simplest rubber-motor model of a pirouette helicopter

A rubber-powered helicopter is not difficult to make. But first, let's find out what a rubber motor is. This is a twisted rubber band that, when unwinding, rotates the propeller and makes the rubber-powered helicopter fly.

As the main building material, we will use bamboo sticks. We will also need steel, metal from tin can, paper and thread.

Making a rubber-powered helicopter

First you need to split several sticks in half to make them thinner and lighter. For this we use a sharp stationery knife. Use the knife carefully to avoid cuts. We leave only one stick intact. It will bear the main load from the stretched rubber. We cut off a piece measuring fourteen centimeters from this whole stick. Now let’s cut the supporting strip of the screw, twenty-four centimeters long, from the half-stick. Mark the middle on it with a pencil and set it aside for now. Next, cut off the tail boom, twenty-two centimeters long. We will adjust the remaining parts during the process when we assemble the rubber motor. Let's put all the bamboo blanks of the helicopter aside and start making the main mechanical element. We will make it from the metal of a tin of coffee or other drinks. Cut a strip from the can four millimeters wide and four centimeters long. We bend the strip with pliers in this way and make two holes in it with an awl, retreating four millimeters from the edge at both ends.
Now, using glue and thread, we will connect all the parts of the helicopter structure. We fix it to metal part tail and main beams and assemble the main part of the cabin. We coat the joints with glue and wind several layers of thread so that they are saturated with this glue. We attach the strut and tail unit in the same way. We make a jumper from a thread on the tail of the helicopter. Then it will all be covered with paper. We will make the screw axis from a paper clip. Let's bend it so that threads can be tied to the screw strip. The fastening technology is still the same threads and glue. Before inserting the axle into the helicopter, we will make a bearing for it from a rod ballpoint pen. Let's cut small rings and put them on the axle. The more such rings, the less the friction force. We insert the whole helicopter and bend the hook. We'll make helicopter wheels out of sponge. Cut out three circles. Let's glue the wheels with instant glue to the helicopter. Now let's cover the helicopter with paper. To do this, attach the paper to the frame and trace the contours with a pencil. Cut out the outline with scissors. Let's coat it with glue and cover the helicopter cabin with it. Next we will glue the tail. To make the tail of the helicopter light, we will cover it with tracing paper. Now all that remains is to make the blades, for which we use yellow paper. Cut out two leaf-shaped blades and bend each in half. Let's glue them to the helicopter. Now all that remains is to tighten the rubber engine. To do this we use an elastic band banknotes. To launch the helicopter, we twist the blades. The rubber band will twist and after you release the blades, the rubber-powered helicopter will take off into the air and will fly until the rubber band loosens.

This model is called so because it does not fly straight up, but rushes from side to side, reminiscent of the flight of a butterfly. This is especially noticeable when the model goes down. The “butterfly” consists of a frame with wings, a propeller and a rubber motor (Fig. 74). We’ll start making the “Butterfly” by drawing in life size frame and screw.

Their dimensions are shown in Fig. 75. For the frame and screw you need steel wire with a diameter of 1 mm. We will make frames from the lower base. Fold a wire 400 mm long in half, bend it around a nail with a diameter of 6-7 mm to form a loop for the rubber motor, then bend the lower base according to the drawing. For the upper base, take a wire 800 mm long. Fold it in half, and at the bend we bend it around a nail with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm.

This will be the top loop for the rubber motor. From the remaining ends of the wire we bend wings according to the drawing. We will screw the lower base to the upper one, as shown in Fig. 75, and the ends of the wings - to the lower one. We solder the joints. We will make a screw with a hook from a piece of wire. We will get the hook in the same way as the hook of the lower base of the frame. Just twist the wire then not 2-3 times, but 5-6 times. We will solder the place where the twist is made.

To reduce friction between the upper base of the frame and the screw, put 3-4 sheet metal washers on the axle. Cover the propeller blades with thin tissue paper or brightly colored nylon. This will give the model a greater resemblance to a butterfly. The flight of this helicopter model is very beautiful. We will make the rubber motor the same as for the Mukha model. Exact amount The rubber threads required for the motor of a given model are determined by trial runs.

It is better to install a weaker motor at first in order to add threads later, than to immediately install a very strong one and risk breaking the model when twisting the rubber. Competitions are held with Butterfly helicopter models to determine the duration or maximum flight altitude. Such competitions are held on a football field or a large clearing.

At the signal, all participants launch their models, and the judge uses a stopwatch to determine the winner. After several launches, you can determine which of the participants’ “Butterfly” flies the longest, and which one flies higher. Brightly pasted models of “Butterflies” launched simultaneously are a very beautiful sight. It can decorate anyone sports festival at the pioneer camp.

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The model we suggest you make is made according to a rarely seen design - its two supporting rotors intersect when rotating. It is not very difficult to build it, especially since its engine is served by rubber bands, well known to modellers. The energy stored in them during spinning is quite sufficient for the flight of a small model of this type. The diameters of the rotors are 600 mm, each of them has its own shaft, and both rotate in opposite directions, which provides a synchronizing mechanism. Its four gears are cut from metal gear wheels with a suitable outer diameter, which can be selected from parts of an old alarm clock or a broken wind-up toy. After processing, the thickness of each gear should be about 2mm, diameter internal hole- 2 mm.

The housing, in which the rotor shafts and the synchronizing mechanism are mounted, is cut and bent from sheet duralumin 0.5 mm thick. Rotor shafts are made of steel wire Ø 2 mm; they can also be made from a knitting needle of suitable thickness. The gears are fastened to the shafts with steel pins Ø 0.8 mm; holes for them are first drilled in the gears, and directly during the assembly process - in the rotor shafts.

Rotor bushings are aluminum. The blades are cut from 2 mm thick balsa plates and fixed to the bushing with glue. After gluing, the rotors must be balanced.

The fuselage and tail boom are cut out of polystyrene foam - preferably from packaging foam. Landing gear and skids are made of 0.5 mm thick duralumin; they are glued to the fuselage epoxy resin. Vertical shaft for rubber bands (each of them contains 16 threads round section) should be reinforced with a tube of thick paper.

1 - fuselage (foam), 2 - landing gear, 3 - balancing rod with weight, 4 - synchronizing mechanism, 5 - rotors, 6 - tail.

When assembling the model, please note: it is necessary to clearly coordinate the position of the rotors. If the left rotor blades are parallel to the flight line, then the right rotor blades should be perpendicular to it. The blades of both rotors are set at the same angles, otherwise the flight will not be straight. If it nevertheless turns, for example, to the left, then this means that the angle of installation of the blades of the right rotor is greater than the left one. Eventually lift the right rotor becomes larger than the left one, which entails a reversal of the model.

To adjust the flight, there is a thin balancing rod installed in the forward part of the fuselage. By moving a copper or steel weight, you can make the helicopter fly forward, hover in place, or even move backwards.

A - drilling Ø 0.8 mm holes in the gear for pins; B - cutting the gear; B - finished gears.

A - development of the body (the figure shows a schematic development; in accordance with the existing gears, its dimensions should be specified locally and, having previously made a template from thick paper, transfer its dimensions to a duralumin plate 0.5 mm thick); B - one of the stages of manufacturing the body (note that the holes for the axes of the synchronizing gears are cut together); B - to ensure the accuracy of the location of the shafts, it is convenient to use a plaza drawn on thick paper.

Therefore, today we will tell you how you can make a rubber-powered helicopter. This homemade product, in our opinion, is the best in its class. It differs from the previous ones (see ""), as appearance, and flight qualities. Its author is a young guy from Russia, who loves making various interesting homemade products— Ilya Sheremetova.

If you you will do this rubber-powered helicopter, you can be sure that when you launch it, all your friends will be berating you to let them try to launch it into flight.

Materials and tools for creating a rubber-powered helicopter

In order to make a helicopter we will need following materials: bamboo barbecue skewers, colored paper, one paper clip, a strip of tin from a coffee can, an elastic band, thread, glue. And also tools: ruler, scissors, awl, knife and pliers.

Materials and tools for creating a helicopter

We make a helicopter using a rubber motor

First, split some bamboo skewers in half. This is necessary to facilitate the design of the model. One long one will make a tail boom (22 cm skewer).

Split the skewers in half

We leave only one skewer unsplitted, which will withstand the load of the rubber motor. Make it 14cm long.

We measure 14 cm

Then we cut a strip of 4-5 mm thick and 7 cm long from the tin, bend it with pliers, as shown in the figure.

Making a mechanism for a rubber motor

We make two holes in it at the top and bottom, retreating from the edges by 3-4 mm.

Making holes

Now we attach two skewers to the tin piece, which will become the helicopter cabin, as well as the tail boom. To do this we use glue and thread.

Attaching the cabin parts

We add the lower part of the cabin; to do this, we divide the skewer into two parts and attach it with thread and glue.

Attaching the lower part of the cabin

We also attach the rear axle for the wheels.

We tie the axle for the wheels

Now let's make a screw. To do this, we make a fastener for an elastic band from a paper clip and attach it to the supporting bar (a skewer 24 cm long), also using thread and glue.