Garlic leaves turn yellow after winter - common problem not only novice summer residents. After all, when growing winter and spring garlic in their plots, summer residents almost every year are faced with the problem of yellowing plant feathers. Most often, the appearance of faded spots on the tips of feathers is associated with a deficiency of certain nutrients, lack of moisture during drought and abundance of water in the soil during rainy summers. Let's figure out what to do if garlic leaves turn yellow, what folk remedy can be recommended? Do I need to cut them off? How to protect winter garlic from yellowing feathers next year?

Garlic – leaves turn yellow, what to do (folk remedy for prevention and treatment)

Many summer residents strive to remove yellow leaves from poorly overwintered garlic “for beauty’s sake.” But there is no need to pick/cut off the yellowed leaves - each feather forms a tooth in the head. It is clear that an early dead leaf will not have time to provide adequate nutrition to the tooth, and it will form small.

Perhaps it is necessary to reconsider and determine the optimal planting time - for each region, the time for planting winter garlic is different. In the Middle Zone, cloves are planted in September-October, in the south - in October-November, and in the North-West as early as August (experience of G. Kizima).

When yellowed feathers are discovered in the spring, the first step is to loosen the plantation to activate the supply of oxygen to the roots, destroying the soil crust that impairs soil aeration. The event will improve the supply of nutrients to the roots when fertilizing.

Next, the beds are watered with a solution of organic or microbial fertilizers and mulched. A replenished layer of organic mulch will forever rid you of soil crust and confidently protect seedlings from spring frosts, after all common reason yellowing of the feather – frostbite.

In this case, spray the beds where frozen yellowed feathers are found with biostimulants - Epin-Extra, Novosil, Zircon, HB-101, Biostim. After autumn planting try to cover the garlic bed with fallen leaves, then winter frosts sprouted teeth will more easily survive spring frosts.

Due to the late planting of winter garlic root system is poorly developed, and the tops actively rush upward in the spring, so it turns out that the roots do not have time to provide food to the feathers. Treatment with biostimulants will give a “quick” effect for the feather, but don’t forget about the roots - if the days are dry, water the bed well with the addition of Flora-S or Zircon. Such measures are good in April. In May, it is more useful to prepare liquid fertilizer from nettles or any other weeds.

Other causes of yellow garlic leaves and how to eliminate them

If the tops of seedlings in spring look lighter than usual, and yellow spots appear at the ends of the leaves, this indicates a lack of nitrogen compounds in the soil. The problem can be eliminated using root and foliar nitrogen fertilizing.

• As for mineral fertilizers, vegetable growers who adhere to traditional agricultural practices use a solution of ammonium nitrate or urea (a tablespoon of the drug per 10 liters). clean water), spilling the planting at the rate of 5-10 liters for each square or spraying the plants with liquid from a spray bottle on the tops.
• From organic matter, the most effective for replenishing nitrogen is an infusion of slurry (1:8) or a fermented infusion of weeds and mown grass (fill a bucket 2/3 full with green mass, add water, leave in a warm place for 10 days, dilute 1:5). The frequency of treatments is 2 times at the beginning of the growing season with an interval of 14-15 days.

Also, yellowing of garlic leaves can be caused by a lack of phosphorus and potassium. Garlic experiences the greatest need for these elements at the stage of formation and ripening of the bulbs, just after the shoots break off (June-July). Nutritional deficiencies can be eliminated with the help of phosphorus-potassium root and foliar feeding.

• Of the mineral compositions, double superphosphate (25 g/bucket of water) and potassium magnesium (10 g/bucket of water) are used, watering the plantation at the root of the seedlings or spraying the plantings on the leaves.
• Of the natural fertilizers, ash works best. The first method of using ash is to dust the soil around each plant after routine loosening. The second is watering the beds with ash infusion (2 cups of sifted ash per 12 liters of water, leave for 1-2 days).

Signs of chlorosis are often difficult to identify. And if you don’t know what specific substances the plants lack, we recommend fertilizing the plantings with a complex organic solution rich in humus and all the mineral salts necessary for the development of the crop. Dilute bird droppings 1:15 in a bucket of water, add a glass of sifted ash to the liquid, let it stand overnight and pour soil between the rows and under the root of each bush.

Damage by pests and diseases

One more unpleasant reason Yellowing of garlic leaves is caused by diseases and pests. We wrote about onion moths earlier, so we won’t repeat them. The leaves of garlic also turn yellow from the onion fly - first, the tips of the feathers become pale yellow (as if turning white) and dry out, and when the larvae get to the onion, it rots and the feather becomes withered.

The safest folk remedy for preventing flies is spraying the plantation with a solution of birch tar in the spring and, of course, crop rotation. As well as combined plantings - carrots planted nearby will protect the garlic from pests. And inclusions of marigolds and marigolds will significantly reduce the population of nematodes, which have great respect for garlic.

Diseased garlic leaves also turn yellow. This can be caused by phytopathogenic fungi of gray mold, fusarium, and rust. It is easy to distinguish lesions from pests - you need to dig up 2-3 bulbs in several places and look at their condition. Rot on the roots, mold and discoloration of the bottom of the head without pest larvae are signs of disease. In this case, it is useful to spray directly on the leaf with a solution of biofungicides (Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Fitop-Flora-S).

Dense soil and high humidity are also important reasons for yellowing of feathers

But that is not all. In unfavorable years, garlic turns yellow due to excess/lack of moisture. We experienced this, so to speak, the hard way, when a mudflow deposited a layer of clay on the site, and our wonderful garlic suffocated under a dense layer of fermented mash. So excess moisture and dense soil are destructive for garlic. But it tolerates short droughts under mulch quite easily.

So, perhaps your garlic is turning yellow because the soil in the garden bed is too dense and the plant could not withstand the heavy spring rains - take care of improving the soil structure. A fail-safe option is to fence the garden bed with low sides and drag weeded weeds and food waste there all season long. In the spring, cover it with black agrofibre, and plant zucchini in the slits, and in the fall, remove the fabric and plant garlic as usual.

If you don’t want to bother with improving the structure of the beds, and the garlic harvest is not pleasing due to diseases, then treat the garlic cloves before planting before winter. This will increase the chances that the plant will better tolerate favorable conditions. Although flooded areas will still lead not only to yellowing of the feathers, but also to the death of plants.

In addition to crop rotation, to prevent damage to the heads by diseases and pests, think about updating the seed - grow garlic from bulbs. This is a long-tested and little-used folk remedy for improving the quality of garlic.

Well, don’t forget that in the middle of summer there is an outflow of nutrients from the feathers to the head, and the lower leaves begin to turn yellow - in this case, you can water the bed with ash infusion and prepare for harvesting. As soon as the cap on the signal arrows bursts, start digging.

So we can confidently say that the constant addition of organic matter to the garlic beds and the renewal of seed material is the key to the health of your plants and bountiful harvest sharp juicy onions every year. Do not resort to chemicals where you can find a folk remedy. We are sure that now you will figure out what to do if the leaves of garlic turn yellow, and you will select competent agricultural technology for growing it, as well as folk remedies for its treatment.

Quite often, gardeners are faced with the problem of yellowing garlic leaves in spring time years, which can lead to the death of the plant. Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring, and what to do to avoid this problem? Read more about this.

Only after identifying the source of the yellowing of the foliage can you take action to eliminate the problem. Yellow garlic feathers appear for several reasons:

• the plant was planted in the ground earlier than expected. Planting of the crop begins no earlier than mid-October, so that the plant does not have time to germinate;
• spring frosts can cause yellowing of leaves;
• nutritional deficiencies;
• plant diseases caused by decay processes;
• An insect such as the onion fly very often causes great harm to the crop, after which the feathers begin to turn yellow.

How can you accurately determine why garlic foliage turns yellow, and what to do in this situation? If frosts have not been observed, then the right decision would be to pull out the affected plant and thoroughly examine it. Diseases associated with rot will be immediately noticeable by the presence of brown spots and mold.

Detect attack onion fly also quite simple. Go to the garden bed and run your hand over the tops: if the fly has laid larvae, then midges and insects will begin to circle above the foliage. When no rot or pests are detected, the only option is a lack of minerals. And it's not strange, because in early spring When the snow melts, it takes all the nutrients with it deep into the ground. Garlic with a weak root system is unable to independently extract these elements.

Frost

If winter garlic has already begun to hatch in early spring, and the weather forecast shows that frost is approaching, then in this case the crop needs to be saved immediately. To do this, water the plant with growth stimulants and cover the bed with thick film, agrofibre, spunbond or other warm material. When the threat of frost passes, protective sheet You can remove it and make sure that the garlic remains green and undamaged. After this, you can start feeding.

Diseases

One of the common reasons why garlic turns yellow in the spring is disease. It may be provoked different insects or fungal pathogens, for example, white rot, black mold, fusarium, etc. Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure, but if infection has already occurred, then there is a proven folk way getting rid of pests: add 2 tbsp to 10 liters of water. l. rock salt; Water the beds generously with the resulting solution.

To prevent garlic diseases, you should follow some rules:

• Rotate planting vegetables in the garden every year. You cannot grow garlic in the place where potatoes previously sprouted;
• do not use as fertilizer fresh manure;
• Some insects are repelled by mint, calendula, and marigolds planted next to garlic.

Wrong soil

If all the rules are followed, but the garlic turns yellow, what should you do in this case? Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Very acidic soil can cause the tops to turn yellow and the garlic to have unhealthy appearance. Neutral soil is ideal for this crop. It is possible to determine soil acidity using special equipment. If it is high, then it is recommended to add ash to the soil in the fall. Approximately 50 kg of lime per hectare of land.

Excess or lack of fertilizers

A deficiency of potassium, magnesium, and nitrogen can also be the reason why garlic foliage in the garden turns yellow in the spring. What to do about this problem? Apply fertilizers to the soil correctly.

When the soil lacks potassium, it is recommended to add potassium sulfate at the rate of 20 g per bucket of water.

Magnesium deficiency is eliminated by watering magnesium sulfate at the rate of 150-200 g per bucket of clean water. Nitrogen, which is so necessary for the growth of any plant, is best washed out of the soil. Therefore, in early spring, nitrogen-containing fertilizers or organic humus are added to the soil.

Watering mode

If garlic turns yellow in May or early June, then the problem lies in improper watering of the crop. Regular irrigation and mulching of the soil in the beds will help maintain healthy green look garlic foliage.

Having determined why problems with yellowing of garlic foliage occur, each gardener will be able to independently choose a way to eliminate the cause. In any case, it is important to do everything preventive work in complex.

Video “Why does garlic turn yellow”

From this video you will learn why garlic turns yellow in the garden and how to fix it.

When growing garlic, a fairly common problem is yellowing. This situation can arise even among experienced gardeners. Those who have encountered this problem for the first time have a question: what to do if the garlic in the garden turns yellow?

Why does garlic turn yellow in the garden and what to do about it?

There are the following situations when garlic has sprouted and turned yellow, and ways to decide what to do:

1. Too much early boarding. If it is planted very early, it may freeze. Therefore, the optimal time for planting is considered to be the beginning or middle of October. It is recommended to plant garlic to a depth of 5 cm and sprinkle compost or humus on top.
2. Spring frosts. If garlic is exposed to light frost, it should be immediately treated with a solution of Zircon or other stimulants.
3. Increased soil acidity. In this case, it must be lowered by adding lime. Then the ground needs to be dug up.
4. Fungal diseases. To prevent their occurrence and development, it is best to prevent such diseases. To do this, before planting, garlic cloves should be placed for 15-20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or the drug “Fitosporin”. If such disinfection was not carried out before planting, then you can spill the beds with these solutions.
5. Lack of nutrients. It could be a lack of nitrogen or potassium. To compensate for this, appropriate fertilizers should be applied in early spring. To do this, grooves 1-2 cm deep are made between the rows, complex mineral fertilizers in granules are placed in them, sprinkled with earth on top and watered abundantly. You can also apply foliar feeding by spraying.
6. Pests. Garlic leaves can be attacked by onion flies. In order to get rid of it, the plant is sprayed with a saline solution (200 g of table salt per 10 liters of water).
7. Stem onion nematode. This is the biggest trouble that can happen. It can exist in the soil for about 8-10 years, while living without water and without food. When damaged, garlic leaves turn yellow and curl. At the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating. In this case, the only solution is to destroy the plants and plant garlic in next year in another place. To curb the spread of the nematode, it is recommended to keep the garlic cloves in the oven for at least two hours before planting. hot water at a temperature of +40-45ºС. Another option would be to place them in a three percent solution of table salt at a temperature of +20-22ºC for 25-30 minutes.
8. Planting garlic too deep. In this case, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil from the bed.

What to do if garlic turns yellow - folk remedies

To combat pests that contribute to the yellowing of garlic, the following folk remedies are used.

Today I will answer the question of why garlic leaves turn yellow, and also tell you about measures to combat yellowing of leaves and the necessary prevention. There are several reasons why garlic leaves turn yellow (winter garlic turns yellow more often): Soil too acidicSolution:

Be sure to plant garlic in neutral soil, if the soil on your site is acidic, then you need to deacidify it by adding lime (35-50 kg per hundred square meters, depending on the acidity of the soil) immediately before autumn digging. Lack of nitrogen in the soilRecommendations:

Nitrogen is quickly washed out of the soil, so it is recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers in early spring, during the period of active growth. You can use humus or urea. Lack of potassium and magnesium in the soilHow to proceed gardener in this case?

Potassium sulfate is added at the rate of 15-20 g per 10 liters of water. Magnesium can be applied in the form of foliar feeding at the rate of 100-200 g per 10 liters of water. Irregular watering In May-June garlic needs to be watered regularly and loosen the soil if you want to avoid yellowing of the leaves.

Winter freezing To avoid freezing garlic in winter, it is necessary to plant the cloves at a time when they can take root, but not begin to grow. Optimal time planting garlic - the first half of October. Plant at a depth of 5-7cm.

Also for better protection to prevent freezing, mulch the plantings with humus to a thickness of 5-7 cm. Often the cause of yellowing of garlic leaves is diseases such as white rot, black mold, bacterial rot and fusarium. To prevent these diseases Before planting, soak the cloves in a manganese solution.

If this is not done in time, then water the beds with a solution of table salt - two tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Pest Control:

To prevent damage to plants by stem nematode, which can also cause yellowing of leaves, use the mutual influence of plants: sow plants such as calendula, marigold, mint, coriander, hyssop and savory in the spaces between the garlic rows, which will repel pests. Failure to comply with crop rotation rules Try carefully observe crop rotation rules - great importance It means that after sowing in the garden, for example, it is better not to plant garlic in a potato plot, since potatoes are a bad predecessor for garlic. As you can see, the reasons for the yellowing of garlic leaves can be different. Take a closer look at the garlic plants and try to understand what the plants want, and the cause of the problem will immediately appear, and I described the solution above.

The main reasons why garlic turns yellow

22 Sep 2013 |

In the spring, gardeners quite often encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as yellowing of garlic leaves. This is not only an unpleasant external effect, but also a sign that the cultivation of winter garlic is carried out in violation of agricultural practices. If in the spring the leaves turn yellow, then soon after this the garlic stops growing, and the planted cloves rot. Why does all this happen? There may be several reasons for the yellowing of garlic, the main ones being:

• lack of nutrients; excessive humidity or lack of moisture; freezing of plants in winter; unsuitable soil; pests and diseases.

As you can see, all the reasons causing the appearance yellow leaves garlic, lie in incorrect agricultural technology. In order to avoid such an unpleasant phenomenon, it is very important to carry out all agricultural activities correctly and in a timely manner.

Measures to prevent yellowing of garlic foliage

Firstly, observe the air-gas regime. This is achieved by loosening the soil. It is important not to allow a dense crust to form on the surface of the garlic bed, which does not allow the plant to breathe. Secondly, it is not recommended to water winter garlic in the spring - it does not like too wet soil, and in the spring it gets enough moisture from the melted snow. However, the soil should not be allowed to dry out either.

IMPORTANT: It makes sense to start watering no earlier than June. When choosing an irrigation mode, you need to focus on specific conditions, and not on general recommendations.

Thirdly, garlic is quite sensitive to soil. It should be neutral. Yellowing leaves indicate that the soil is acidic or lacks nitrogen.

To reduce acidity, the soil needs to be limed before planting or add ash at the rate of a glass per 10 liters of water. To ensure that garlic has enough nitrogen, urea or other nitrogenous fertilizers must be applied in the spring.

ATTENTION: Fresh manure is contraindicated for winter garlic, as it can cause disease.

Fourthly, not the most favorable conditions can also cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Winter crops may freeze. To avoid this, you need to plant the crop so that the teeth can take root, but at the same time do not begin to grow during the winter.

In this case, the planting depth also matters; the optimal one is from 4 to 6 cm. It is better to mulch the planted teeth. Cold spring also has an adverse effect on plantings.

Plants cannot obtain nutrients from soil that has not yet thawed and may also turn yellow because of this. Fertilizing with ammonium nitrate can be a salvation.

Pests and diseases of garlic are another reason for its yellowing.

Speaking about pests and diseases that cause the appearance of yellow leaves on many varieties of garlic, we cannot fail to mention the following:

• fusarium – fungal disease, developing due to excess moisture at fairly high air temperatures, dense soil and lack of plant nutrition; false powdery mildew- a disease that affects plants grown in conditions high humidity and comparatively high temperature air; onion fly is a pest that attacks garlic leaves; stem nematode is a pest worm that can live in the soil for a long time and lays eggs inside the plant.

What to do if the garlic leaves turn yellow?

To save your garlic crop when the leaves turn yellow, you can do the following:

1. Fertilize with complex fertilizer or urea. Garlic may also lack potassium - in this case, you can use potassium sulfate; if the soil is moist and dense, loosen the rows well; water the bed with a solution of table salt, a weak solution of potassium permanganate or special means from pests.

If garlic turns yellow, it is necessary to analyze what caused this. And in order to avoid such a problem next year, you need to be well prepared. planting material, soil and observe crop rotation and agricultural technology.

Along with this, read the following articles:

Garlic has been known to man since ancient times; it was not only eaten, but also used in medical purposes, as a medicine. Nowadays, perhaps, there is no gardener who does not have garlic on his plot.

Garlic: characteristics of varieties

1. winter, which is planted before winter (in separate cloves in open ground autumn).spring - planted in spring.

Winter garlic differs from spring garlic in that the first one already has a future green arrow in its tooth, which is clearly visible if you make a cross section. Spring garlic does not shoot out its arrow. Its reproduction occurs in cloves.

Externally, they also differ: the winter one contains one row of 4-6 large segments, and the spring one has 2 rows of small ones. Gardeners have noticed that Mostly winter garlic turns yellow.

Why does the garlic in the garden turn yellow?

• Deep landing. Do not plant winter garlic cloves deep into the ground, as this may cause them to freeze and cause yellow leaves to appear. Therefore, it is best to plant at a depth of 5 cm. Lack of nitrogen. This reason can be easily corrected if you feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer early in the spring (if this is done in the fall, some of the fertilizer will be washed out of the soil). Liquid manure and urea are quite suitable for this. Acidic soil. This kind of soil is absolutely not suitable! The soil must be sufficiently moist and enriched with oxygen. Neutral soil will do. If the garlic begins to turn yellow, then you need to frequently water the soil and constantly loosen it. Poor planting material. This may also be one of the reasons for the appearance of yellowness. It is advisable to update the planting material every year, otherwise the accumulation and development of viral diseases may occur. Lack of watering. To prevent your garlic from turning yellow, be sure to water it. This is especially important in May - June, when the formation of green mass occurs. The cause of yellowing may be a violation of the timing of planting garlic. Various pests and diseases. Such ailments include white rot, stem nematode, which appears in wet weather, and fungus. With fungal diseases, brown-yellow stripes appear on the leaves. The head of garlic itself is covered brown spots, the bottom of the head becomes soft.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of the tips of garlic leaves; it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and eliminate it. Read also:

Why does garlic turn yellow - what to do, how to process it, feed it

What to do? Could it be a disease? Then what to process with? Or maybe he is missing something?

How and what to feed? We usually see garlic leaves starting to turn yellow from the tips. Then this yellowing increases, the development of the plant is accordingly delayed, and the bulbs form smaller. The reasons may be different.

Firstly, the leaves of winter garlic turn yellow in early spring, after it is exposed to severe frost. This is one of the reasons. Secondly, this can happen if the bulb is infected with some kind of fungal disease. These are only two reasons.

They seem to be obvious; we can ourselves determine the reason for the yellowing of garlic leaves. In the morning we woke up, and there was frost on the grass and the puddles were covered with thin ice. Or they pulled out an onion and saw that on the bottom, the roots had turned black, and mold had appeared.

What to do after spring frosts

If the garlic has been caught by a light frost or there has been a frost, then it is advisable to immediately treat it, spray the leaves with a solution of any stimulant - HB-101, Epin, Zircon and others.

Garlic diseases

At the very beginning, I said that garlic can turn yellow from fungal diseases. They may be the cause of yellow leaves. It is difficult to treat fusarium and bacterial rot - it is easier to prevent. What to do?

Before planting, the garlic cloves had to be disinfected - soaked in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate, or the drug "Maxim", or the drug "Fitosporin" (15-25 minutes). If you did not do this before planting, then you can water the beds with these solutions for prevention. But sometimes such obvious signs There is no reason for the yellowing of garlic.

There were no frosts, the root on the bulb was clean. What's going on? What to do? What to process?

Or maybe you need to feed it?

Fertilizing garlic

One of the reasons why leaves turn yellow is a lack of nutrients. Basically, it lacks nitrogen or potassium. What to do?

For fertilizing, you can use mineral or organic fertilizers. Carefully loosen the rows. Make a shallow (1-2 cm) groove.

Pour (sow) granular fertilizers into it, for example, urea (carbamide) or some complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle the granules with soil.

After this, water the entire bed generously so that the fertilizer dissolves, since any plants absorb nutrients only in dissolved form. After this, you can mulch the wet bed with dry soil or compost so that the soil remains moist for as long as possible. This is one option for using mineral fertilizer in a bed with garlic. The second option.

First dissolve dry mineral fertilizer in water (1 tablespoon of urea or Fertika Lux per 10 liters of water), pour over the garlic - 10 liters of solution per 1 sq. m. m. This option is even preferable, since liquid fertilizer goes straight to the roots of the plants. What else can be done? You can do foliar feeding.

It is especially useful for young plants. You can feed with complex mineral fertilizer or potassium sulfate, which is also often lacking in garlic. The norm of potassium sulfate is 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

Set your sprayer to a fine spray and spray all the garlic leaves generously. This should be done in the evening, in dry, windless weather, so that the droplets nutrient solution fell on the leaves, did not dry out in the wind, but were completely absorbed. From organic fertilizers For feeding, I use an infusion of cut green grass or weeds, to which wood ash is added.

I described in detail how to make such a green fertilizer in the article “Tomatoes - what to feed and what types of fertilizers are available.” A solution of this liquid “green fertilizer” can be used to water the garlic at the root or to do foliar feeding.

Garlic planting dates

There is another reason why the leaves turn yellow. This is a failure to comply with planting deadlines. Beginning gardeners plant garlic early in the fall, for example, in early September. And it needs to be planted approximately two to three weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather.

For the Krasnodar Territory this is November, for middle zone– end of September-October. Why is that? Garlic should only have time to take root, but not grow. If we plant it early in the fall, then in the spring - after the snow melts - yellow leaves will appear.

They just froze.

Garlic pests: onion fly, onion stem nematode

Pests can cause yellowing of garlic leaves. Examine the plants carefully. You notice small worms at the base of the leaves. These are onion fly larvae.

How to get rid of it? What to process? You can get rid of them using a saline solution. To do this, take 200 g of table salt and dilute it in 10 liters of water. We spray with this solution.

The worms will disappear. The reason that the garlic leaves have turned yellow may be the onion stem nematode. This is perhaps the biggest nuisance. There is no use fighting her.

Can live in soil, without water or food, for 8-10 years. What does an infected plant look like? The plant begins to wither. The leaves lighten, curl, and the cracked bulb begins to rot. Dig up one head of garlic with yellowed, curled leaves.

If it is damaged by a nematode, then at the bottom of the bulb there will be rotten roots and a white or pinkish coating - these are small worms that can only be seen through a magnifying glass with 10-20x magnification - they are 1.5 mm long and 0.5 mm thick. A white or pinkish coating on the bottom of the bulb is an accumulation of the pest.

What to do? Such plants will have to be destroyed. Next year, plant garlic and onions in another bed. How to treat? Currently no effective means fighting nematodes.

Before planting, it is recommended to soak the garlic cloves in hot (40-45°C) water for at least 2 hours or in a 3% solution of table salt for 25-30 minutes at a temperature of 20-22°C. Such treatment will not completely destroy the nematode, but will significantly reduce its number and curb the spread of the pest.

In the future, be more attentive to the selection of planting material. The nematode loves acidic soils. Therefore, deoxidize the infected area with lime or dolomite flour. The nematode lives in plant residues, in lumps of earth.

In infected areas, sow marigolds and calendula (marigolds). The fact is that marigolds and calendula attract the nematode with their smell; it follows this smell, sticks to the roots, and the juice of these plants is poisonous to it and it dies. Let’s now summarize, briefly list the reasons why garlic can turn yellow.

• The seedlings were frozen. The soil lacks the basic nutrients - nitrogen, potassium. Planted too early - the garlic began to grow before the onset of cold weather. Planting material or soil is infected with spores of pathogenic fungi or onion stem nematode. Onion fly larvae damaged the garlic. Drought, insufficient watering and dense soil can also cause yellowing.

Having determined the reason why your garlic is turning yellow, you can answer the questions yourself - what to do, what to process and feed. Inexperienced summer residents and simply those who have taken up growing garlic are often concerned with the question of why the tops of garlic turn yellow very early (long before ripening). . Garlic begins to turn yellow from the tops of the leaves and then the yellowing goes down. The result of this is that the supply of nutrients to the head of garlic decreases, and the yield decreases.

In the Non-Black Earth Region, the most common reason for this situation, as a rule, is soil depletion, namely, a lack of nitrogen and potassium. Nitrogen and potassium available for absorption from the soil by the plant are different substances, but they are closely related to each other. If there is no potassium, the plant absorbs nitrogen (and phosphorus) much worse. The fact that there is not enough nitrogen can be recognized by the yellowness of the leaves, especially if they develop reddish tint. Even individual weeds can signal this problem by reddening of the leaf veins. In addition to yellowness, a problem with potassium can be suggested by a narrow border that appears along the edge of the leaf.

The leaf looks as if it has been burned; a so-called “marginal burn” appears. At the same time, the leaves often grow unevenly, become thinner and drooping. Heavily turfed (usually under trees) or acidic areas of the soil exacerbate the lack of nitrogen or potassium.

The most correct thing would be to test the soil for acidity before planting not only garlic, but also other crops. Currently, instruments for measuring acidity are completely accessible to anyone interested in good harvest. Their price starts from 500 rubles.

If necessary, soil acidity can be reduced in one direction or another. The absolute majority cultivated plants grows well in neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Good luck if the soil at the site where the crop is supposed to be grown is exactly like this.

Otherwise, the soil can become deoxidized. It's not like that difficult process, the effort and financial costs will pay off with an unprecedented harvest.

Nitrogen deficiency

If there is a nitrogen deficiency, it is better to fertilize the soil for garlic with organic or mineral substances (created specifically for fans of “ organic farming" There is no fundamental difference between one and the other type of fertilizer.

In any case, the plant consumes exactly what is necessary and useful for its growth and development. The irony is that in both organic and mineral fertilizers these are the same substances. The only difference is that the concentration useful substances in mineral fertilizers is extremely high, of course it is easier to overdo it with their quantity, especially if you do not read the instructions for use. But this does not indicate the harm of fertilizers, rather the narrow-mindedness of the gardener.

For example, exceeding the amount of ordinary table salt can also send you to your forefathers. Nitrogen fertilizers should be introduced as top dressing in the spring..

The reason for this restriction is that, when introduced in the fall, they will simply be washed out of the soil, which was carefully prepared for planting, by the onset of the planting season - spring. Urea or carbamide is used as nitrogen fertilizer.

As an option - complex fertilizer. The correct technology would be to make grooves (shallow, 1-2 centimeters) between the rows of garlic and apply fertilizer at the rate of 20 g/m, or according to the dosage according to the instructions. The furrows need to be leveled, then the fertilized area should be watered.

To keep the soil moist, it is better to add dry humus or compost on top. You can do it differently. First, prepare a fertilizer solution at the rate of 20 g of urea per bucket of water, then pour it over the garlic at the rate of 10 l/m. This method works more quickly, since the necessary substances immediately reach the plant.

Potassium deficiency

If you suspect that garlic is turning yellow due to potassium deficiency, then foliar feeding can help very well. It will give particular success at the very beginning of growth.

For this purpose, either a complex mixture or potassium chloride is used as a fertilizer at the rate of 10 g/l of solution. It is better to do it in clear weather and in the absence of wind by spraying with a fine spray so that all the useful substances are absorbed into the soil on which the garlic will grow. To fertilize with potassium, many use ash at the rate of 100 g/m.

This technique is good for acidic soils, since it deoxidizes the soil and enriches it with mineral microelements, necessary for the plant. From organic matter, manure at the rate of 100 kg per hundred square meters is suitable. Yellowing can be caused by a variety of factors; it would be a good idea to make a general list of them.

Causes of yellowing and methods of dealing with the problem

1. Soil depletion, lack of potassium or nitrogen. Fertilize in spring with liquid manure or urea. If there is a lack of potassium, use potassium fertilizers or ash at the rate of 1 glass per 10 liters of water. Diseases. Their signs are yellow and brown stripes on garlic bulbs, twisted, withered leaves, and stunted growth of the entire plant. To cope, we need prevention and quarantine, the use of fungicides and similar drugs. Garlic should not be planted in beds where onions or potatoes previously grew. The proximity to mint, calendula, thyme, coriander is favorable. Pests. The signs are the same, but the source of the lesion can be found. Help exterminate them different methods- spraying, quarantine, use of higher quality seedlings. Garlic can turn yellow from too much acidic soil. In this case, you just need to use methods to increase the low pH. It is especially important to water the garlic well in May-June. The use of agroperlite, as well as agrotechnical hydrogels, can give a good effect. Yellowing can appear from delays in planting. If garlic is planted too early in the fall, more than a couple of weeks before persistent cold weather, it will most likely turn yellow, since it sprouted in the fall and its first shoots froze. In the fall, garlic just needs to take root. Frosts in the spring are a predictable cause of yellowing. Bioactive preparations, for example, "Baikal EM-1", increase the frost resistance of the soil. Or, as an option for those who have the opportunity to constantly monitor it, cover the seedlings with film during the frost stage. If, nevertheless, frosts damage young plants, the situation can be saved with Zircon, Epin or similar preparations according to the recommendations on the packaging. Quality of planting material.

The article covers the problems of yellowing of garlic during its growth. It brings together the most common causes of this phenomenon and information on how to eliminate them.

Pests and diseases of garlic

1. Onion fly(length 5-7 mm) - gray with light green tint on the back. The larva reaches a length of 10 mm. It is white. Its larvae develop in July or August. Onion hoverfly(7-9 mm) - green. The length of the larva itself is 11mm. It can be dirty yellow or gray. To the touch - wrinkled. The flies themselves emerge in June. They are able to lay eggs after a month and a half. The second generation appears in August. Onion thrips(0.8 mm) - an insect with fringed wings. The body is oblong, narrow. The color is brown or yellow. The larvae of this species are white without wings. Onion sneaker(3 mm) - a beetle with a rostrum as long as thin as the thorax. Its body is black, covered with white scales, which makes it appear slightly gray. The larvae are legless, 7 mm long. They are yellow-white in color with a light head. They damage the leaves, so they quickly turn yellow and disappear. Onion moths(9 mm) - dark brown butterflies. The caterpillars are green with yellow stripes and spots. Onion stem nematode- the smallest worm white. 2 mm long, 0.05 mm thick. In order to examine it, it is better to take a magnifying glass with you, since it is very small. Root mites(0.8 mm) - eight-legged mites with an oval, whitish body. Damages varieties of onions and garlic in the ground and during storage. Four-legged tick(0.2 mm) - a tick that has only two pairs of walking limbs. He has an elongated body.

Yellowing of garlic: main reasons

The second main reason for the yellowing of garlic after a lack of nutrients necessary for growth in the soil can be safely called diseases and small insect pests. But, as with people in such a situation, garlic diseases will be easier to prevent than to treat, after they have occurred the first signs of an emerging disease, because in this case the amount of harvest will be, even with the use of high technologies in the field of crop production, definitely less. One of preventive measures To avoid garlic being damaged by disease, it can be moderate watering- no more and no less than necessary. Despite medicinal properties, which garlic has for people, it itself is susceptible to various diseases that are very common in temperate latitudes, such as black mold, bacterial and white rot, fusarium, bottom rot.

Often the feathers of garlic that has begun to grow turn yellow. If measures are not taken in time, there will not be a good harvest.

The leaves can turn yellow on any garlic, no matter whether it is spring or winter. It’s bad when garlic turns yellow in the spring or at the height of summer, but by the time of harvesting, yellowing and drying of the tops is normal. What to do if the garlic begins to turn yellow at the wrong time and how to treat it will be discussed below.

Causes

Typically, yellowing - chlorosis - begins at the ends. Gradually the yellow color spreads and development is delayed. As a result, the heads will grow small.

There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

• damage by diseases and pests;
• lack of macro- or microelements;
• improper water regime;
• cold weather.

You can determine what caused the yellowing in different ways.

Garlic planted last season turns yellow

When winter garlic turns yellow in early spring, it means that the plants have been frozen.

Garlic turns yellow in warm weather

Remove a few heads and look at the roots. If they are nibbled or the bottom is covered with mold, then the reasons for the poor condition of the plantings are diseases and pests.

Yellowing is caused by two diseases to which lilies are susceptible: fusarium and bacterial rot.

Fusarium

Fusarium or bottom rot manifests itself in that the tips of the garlic turn yellow, the leaves and stem dry out quickly, starting from the end. A pinkish coating appears in the sinuses, then aboveground part covered with brown stripes. If you dig up an onion, you will immediately notice that its roots have almost disappeared, and the bottom has become soft and watery.

The disease is common in southern climates, but gardeners in the middle zone also encounter it in hot years. Crop losses due to fusarium can reach 70%.

Bacterial rot

Bacterial rot affects bulb crops. The disease manifests itself as brown dots on the surface of the teeth. Subsequently, the heads take on a “frozen” appearance and smell unpleasant. The garlic feathers turn yellow, then the leaves and arrows dry out and die, starting from the ends.

The sources of the disease are bacteria living in the soil. Microorganisms penetrate the plant through damage caused by mites, nematodes, etc.

Nematode

Stem nematode is a microscopic pest that lives in the soil. The plant affected by the nematode brightens, the garlic leaves turn yellow, then the feathers curl and the bulb rots.

How to recognize a nematode: looking at the roots in magnifying glass you can see small worms no more than a millimeter long. Without a magnifying glass, they look like a pinkish coating on the surface of the bottom.

What's wrong with garlic?

Sometimes garlic in the garden turns yellow due to lack of nutrition. More often, the vegetable experiences a deficiency of nitrogen and potassium. The situation can be corrected by feeding.

Garlic responds well to mulching with humus. You can even use chicken manure, but it must sit in a pile for at least 2 years.

Mulching with organic matter is an excellent way to feed. If garlic turns yellow in beds filled with humus, then the cause of chlorosis is not a nutritional deficiency, but something else.

Those who prefer to fertilize their garden with mineral water can use urea and potassium sulfate to prevent yellowing of garlic leaves. The latter fertilizer also contains sulfur, which is useful for garlic.

You can carry out foliar feeding. The procedure is useful if the leaves of young plants have turned yellow. Urea or potassium sulfate is diluted in a concentration of a teaspoon per liter of water. The leaves are sprayed with a fine spray. Droplets of the working solution that fall on the leaf blades will be absorbed and the yellowness will disappear.

All onions love fertilizing, as it contains a lot of potassium, which promotes the growth of bulbs and increases resistance to pests. The powder can be sprinkled on top of the bed if it is not mulched with organic matter. Mixing ash and humus is not recommended, as this leads to the disappearance of nutrients from fertilizers.

Ash is added when digging the beds or a water concentrate is prepared for foliar feeding according to the following recipe:

1. Sift 300 g of ash.
2. Pour boiling water over and heat for 20 minutes.
3. Strain the broth and dilute with 10 liters of water.
4. Add a tablespoon of liquid soap for adhesion.

A common cause of yellowing of garlic feathers is lack of water. Chlorosis is caused not only by a lack of moisture, but also by an excess of moisture, as plant roots suffocate due to lack of oxygen.

In case of violation water regime The lower leaves dry out first. Mulching with humus or peat will help solve the problem of a lack of irrigation water.

It is more difficult to help if the garlic is flooded. To prevent this from happening, in regions with high rainfall, vegetables are planted on raised beds. So that the roots can breathe, the surface of the soil is loosened after each watering, preventing the formation of a crust.

Depending on what is the cause of the pathology, chemical, folk or agrotechnical measures will come to the rescue.

Ready-made products

Garlic diseases are easier to prevent. To do this, before planting, soak the teeth in diluted water. Pink colour potassium permanganate or the drug Maxim. Fitosporin is suitable, in which the cloves should be soaked for 15-25 minutes. You can disinfect not the planting material, but the soil by spilling the bed with a solution of one of the preparations.

Spray leaves caught by frost with growth stimulants: Silkom, Epin, Succinic acid. Stimulants increase plant immunity and promote the appearance of new leaves.

Silk contains triterpene acids produced coniferous trees. It is a natural regulator of plant growth and development that has a fungicidal effect.

Epin enjoys well-deserved love experienced gardeners. The drug contains an adaptogen, which has a pronounced anti-stress effect. Epin activates the plant's immunity at full capacity. As a result, garlic reacts less to frost, drought, and temperature changes.

The drug stimulates shoot formation, so young leaves quickly grow in place of dried leaves. Garlic damaged by frost or heat is sprayed with Epin once a week. Treatments are repeated until the plant recovers.

For spraying take rainwater, not hard tap water.

Epin contains the phytohormone Epibrassinolide, which domestic scientists managed to synthesize. The drug is almost never used abroad, but in Russia most agricultural crops are treated with it.