The finishing of a bathhouse differs in many respects from that of residential premises, both in the materials used and in technology. The most important thing you need to know when starting to decorate the inside of a bathhouse is: You can’t build a turnkey bathhouse and then think about how to finish it. The finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in combination with insulation and insulation, and as for the floor, also as part of the work on its installation. The reason is the special conditions of the microclimate of the bathhouse and the stay of people in it.

Bath atmosphere

The cornerstones of insulation are that the vapor barrier is applied on the wetter side, and the insulation on the cold side. In the bathhouse, both of them regularly find themselves inside, just, so to speak, in operating mode, during washing. So you need to insulate yourself from the inside? But in winter, the bathhouse periodically freezes completely, and then how can you prevent the building structures from becoming damp?

The second point is the bathhouse spirit. Not everyone could afford to build a “original” bathhouse in the old days, but in our time it is available to only a few. The sauna is not breathable - just a heat chamber and the health benefits from it are, to put it mildly, questionable. So how, then, is it possible to steam in a structure made from available materials, which you can build and equip on your own?

Finally, the main rooms of the bath are the washing room and the steam room.. In them, in addition to sharp jumps temperature and humidity, there is bound to be a copious spill of water on the floor and walls. How to avoid unsanitary conditions in such conditions? All these tasks are taken on by finishing the inside of the bathhouse. Of course, it must also perform its usual functions, decorative and ergonomic.

What else to finish?

Large public baths, starting from Ancient Rome, were and are now often finished with mineral materials - stone, tiles. They are definitely not suitable for a small bathhouse: as the size of the building decreases, per unit of its volume there is an increasing area of ​​external surfaces, and with it heat loss. Then, to make a stone bath breathe, it needs high, from 4-5 m, ceilings and well-designed ventilation and hot air supply systems; The design of the Roman baths still fascinates engineers and builders.

Have you been to the hammam? How high is it from the heels of the person standing in pairs to the lowest point of the ceiling? If less than 4.2 m, then what kind of equipment is hidden in the technical premises? How much does it cost, consume fuel and electricity? In a private household, the interior decoration of the bathhouse should, without alternative, be wooden. This makes it difficult for it to achieve proper hygiene, but there is no other way to install a healthy sauna with dimensions less than approx. 12x16 m no.

What to achieve?

The structure of the bathhouse can be brick, foam and gas blocks, wooden beams, frame or log; We don’t touch on such exotic things as, say, an earthen bath. Except for one of these cases (see below), the structure of the bathhouse itself is not capable of breathing as a bathhouse should. Bathhouse builders charge about... 500 thousand rubles for the final finishing of a 4x6 m turnkey box, and materials account for no more than 20-25% of this amount! It follows that decorating a bathhouse with your own hands is at least economically justified. Now let’s summarize what we should get technically:

1. When heated to 70-90 degrees, the finishing of the bath should not emit fumes harmful to health, but should maintain its shape and mechanical characteristics;
2. The risk of injury (burns, slipperiness, scratches/splinters) from finishing the bath should be excluded;
3. The interior decoration of the bathhouse should quickly absorb and retain heat well, gradually releasing it into the room after heating;
4. The finishing properties must be maintained for a long time under the influence of cyclic thermal shocks and 100% humidity;
5. The finishing of the bath should be pleasant to the eye and to the touch with steamed skin.

About burns

Burns are the most serious risk factor in saunas. The degree of damage to body tissues during a thermal burn depends primarily on the thermal energy transferred to it, and that on the ratio of thermal conductivity and heat capacity of the hot object. The combination of these parameters in a tree is favorable from a safety point of view: a piece of wood heated to 90-120 degrees can be picked up by hand and moved from place to place without suffering any serious damage. A stone, or, say, a tile, under the same conditions, will cause at least redness of the skin followed by ulceration, and a blister will immediately arise from the metal. Therefore, metal in bathhouses should be avoided in every possible way, and metal fasteners should be placed so that they are not accessible to touch.

Bathhouse like a bathhouse

The simplest decoration of a Russian bath is simply its absence, see fig. More precisely, the absence of a continuous finish: a bathhouse made from wild logs selected to size breathes perfectly on its own thanks primarily to the open ends of the logs - along the fibers the tree absorbs and releases water vapor several times faster than across the layers, but it warms up from thermal radiation and from contact with heated air evenly. Therefore, in the original Russian bathhouse, the required ratio of temperature and humidity is automatically maintained. wide range flow intensity.

The original Russian bathhouse comes in 3 types - vigorous, made of oak, kondovaya, most often made of pine, and light, linden. The latter is the most useful, but if linden timber appears on sale, it is prohibitively expensive. A complete replacement for it in terms of sanitary and hygienic indicators, but only for 5-7 years, is poplar. Steaming in a vigorous oak bath is not for everyone’s health; It is definitely not recommended for women and children.

A pine bathhouse without interior decoration will be useful and quite fragrant if it is made from ordinary commercial pine-dried chips. Expensive, but extremely resistant to moisture, rot and pests, pitch pine is used for 1-2 lower crowns. However, the pine bath must first be “burnt”, the remaining volatile substances must be expelled from the logs, and the heavy fractions of resins must be forced to bituminize. To do this, in the summer, in dry hot weather, in the new bathhouse, in the morning, open all the doors, entrance and interior, windows, upper vents (see below) wide open and empty all containers, including the waste pit, if it is under the floor. Then the stove is heated to maximum until lunchtime; here for the first time you need an eye and an eye - suddenly there is something wrong in the fireproof cutting of the pipe (also see below). After lunch, the firebox is stopped, the bathhouse is allowed to cool until the next morning, and this procedure is repeated 3-5 times. If the weather turns bad, it’s okay, a break won’t hurt.

However, you can use a Russian log bathhouse without additional finishing only if the log house is properly caulked. Since ancient times, baths were caulked with moss, but now the best option is jute. During the construction process, the crowns are caulked in a stretched strip (see figure on the right), and after dry shrinkage of the frame, the cracks are hammered into the set with jute rope (top left photo in the figure above). If the bathhouse is built in compliance with these requirements, the floor in it is also laid as it should be, see below, and properly burnt, only decorative functions remain behind its finishing; you just need to leave more wall surfaces free and not cover the outer and inner ends of the logs.

About finishing the sauna

The northern country of Finland has never been rich in forests suitable for building a bathhouse. The abundant spruce there is not the best option in this case: it is difficult and time-consuming to remove resin from its solid mass. Therefore, the Finns initially assigned the medical and health functions of the bathhouse to its less expensive internal lining: The traditional finishing of the sauna is a plank stand made of seasoned spruce boards, see fig.

Avid Finnish sauna lovers, having steamed in their own and in a real Russian sauna, say: yours is better. Not by much, but it still feels better. However, a sauna is much simpler, cheaper, can be made compact, even in the nook of a city apartment, and even mobile, which is what determined its wide distribution. The design of the sauna is very plastic, therefore, if you want to get a sauna, then when finishing using the methods described below, use seasoned air-dry spruce for the cladding.

Baths thanks to finishing

So, a properly equipped bathhouse made of any material other than solid logs should breathe like a bathhouse, thanks mainly to the decoration of the walls. It is more necessary for the ceiling to prevent heat loss so that the air under it does not become oversaturated with moisture, but, having cooled slightly, immediately flows down to the floor. The floor gets the most: it must be safe, i.e. non-slippery, hygienic, warm, especially resistant to rot, mold, pests, ensure the drainage of spilled water and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the underground, otherwise the entire structure will become damp. And, as you know, it is strongly not recommended to make the base of a bathhouse higher than 200 mm.

Note: Finishing work in the bathhouse can be started only after the foundation and the frame on it have settled. The timing of technical breaks for shrinkage depends on the design of the foundation and the structure of the bathhouse.

You need to learn from simple to complex, but in practice, for complete success you need to deal with the most complex cases first. Therefore, let's go, firstly, as is customary in construction, from bottom to top, from floor to roof; secondly, since there is a stove in the bathhouse, it will be necessary to bring in the principle “from the stove”. That is, we will carry out the interior decoration of the bathhouse in this order, assuming that the box with windows and doors is already on the foundation:

1. If the oven is brick - laying its foundation and building the oven;
2. Subfloor installation;
3. Laying the finished floor separately for rooms - steam room, washing room, dressing room and rest room (if provided);
4. Wall decoration and installation of overhead vents;
5. Installation of a metal stove and installation of its chimney;
6. Ceiling finishing;
7. Installation of partitions and a little about the equipment and lighting of the bathhouse.

Note: The overhead vents in the bathhouse are often forgotten, but in vain. Especially in a steam room, they can be vital for instantly releasing steam in case someone becomes ill. An unheated bathhouse must be kept with the top vents open to avoid dampness of the walls.

Brick oven

Sauna stoves are a separate topic, and brick sauna stoves are a separate topic. Here we will focus only on the fireproof cutting of the chimney, because... Without it, it is impossible to begin further arrangement with it, and no one has yet come up with hanging chimneys without a stove.

A brick sauna stove is heated intensively, but not constantly and not for long, so the danger of soot ignition in it is low. Therefore, the cutting of its chimney is not made wide, but in 7 rows; For order, see pos. 1 pic. IN attic floor a hatch is cut out for cutting, pos. 2, and perform additional insulation with vermiculite, pos. 3. In the case of using a widened groove, the hatch is expanded accordingly and additional insulation is then no longer needed, on the right in pos. 3. Cutting a passage through the roof is common, but that’s another topic.

Subfloor

The beams of the subfloor of the bathhouse should be supported by concrete pillars from 200x200 mm or brick pillars from 380x380 mm. An anti-heaving sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of at least 300 mm and extending beyond the contour of the column from 150 mm is installed under each column. The installation spacing of supports is no more than 1.2 m along long side buildings and no more than 2 m along the short one. If the frame of the subfloor is spinal or lattice (see below), then the arrangement of supports is drawn up so that there is a column under each cross of the beams. Because Since the base of the bathhouse is low, it is convenient in all respects to use ready-made concrete supports for the floor foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm without teeth, with smooth ends. The columns are leveled horizontally along the foundation using bedding and compaction sand pillows and before laying the floor beams, they are covered with 2 layers of waterproofing, just like the foundation.

Material and impregnation

The ideal material for the floor beams and 1-2 lower crowns of the frame is healthy straight-grain pitch pine, freshly cut in mid-spring. Bark beetles, wood borers and fungi do not touch this: they will choke in the resin. The abundant resin in it will be bituminized by the end of summer, and the tree will become resistant to moisture, rot and pests no worse than bog oak. The tar does not require any pre-treatment, but, unfortunately, this material is very expensive, and in many countries logging during the spring sap flow is generally prohibited.

It is better to use larch for beams and subfloor boards: it only needs to be impregnated with fire retardants and biocides with inexpensive and safe solutions of borax and boric acid; Larch is not afraid of water anyway. Oak too, but it is more expensive, and the bath does not need additional strength. Other industrial wood for flooring must also be impregnated with water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Of these, only expensive refined mineral oils and no less expensive synthetic ones based on silicone are suitable for baths. About bitumen mastic and even more so about surrogates like mining, if we're talking about It’s better to forget about the bath.

Note: all without exception wood materials To finish the bath, before use, they are brought into it and left for 1-3 days for acclimatization. Otherwise, the finished structure made from them will almost certainly soon warp or dry out.

Frames and beams

If the width of the bathhouse structure is more than 4 m, the subfloor frame needs a spine frame (item 1 in the figure) or a lattice frame made of 150x150 beams. In this case, its beams crash into each other halfway through the tree. The frame, like the entire floor of the bathhouse, is made floating with a deformation gap around the perimeter of 20-40 mm. The gap is not tightly filled with jute rope or mineral cardboard.

In a bathhouse up to 4 m wide, the base of the subfloor is made of beams made of 150x50 beams. After cutting to size, cranial bars 40x40 or 50x50 are stuffed onto them below, and the beams are laid out in places with increments of 400-500 mm, pos. 2. The beams are secured from displacement with pieces of the same timber, cut according to a template, pos. 3. In log buildings, it is permissible to lay floor beams in the grooves of the lower crown of the frame freely, without inserting, pos. 4, with a gap along the groove contour of 4-6 mm. Next, the cells of the beam structure are filled with subfloor boards, pos. 5. They are attached to cranial bars galvanized or phosphated nails or screws.

First and second features

The subfloor of the bathhouse should be laid across the spans between the beams from pieces of boards cut to size. As we will see later, then when laying the finished floor, the cracks in it and in rough floor will turn out to be perpendicular, which will facilitate the very difficult task of insulating the bathhouse floor.

The second feature is that it is better to take cheap debarked slab on the subfloor of the bathhouse and lay it with its convex sides up. The outer dense and resistant layer of wood in the slab boards is not damaged, which will give the floor durability, and the convexity of the boards will prevent stagnation of water spilled on the floor. The slabs, due to the reduction in the thickness of the trunk from bottom to top, converge to one end, so the subfloor is assembled from the slab by picking up boards and laying them alternately with thin ends in one direction and the other.

Lags

Finally, finished floor joists 50 mm wide without insertion are installed on the floor beams, pos. 6. They are also fastened to the beams with galvanized or phosphated steel corners from 30x30x2 and also corrosion-resistant screws from 6x25. “From” in the first case refers primarily to the thickness of the metal of the corner, so that it will last for at least 15 years under sauna operating conditions.

Third feature

The height of the logs under the finished floor in the bathhouse is taken to be different for different rooms: 50 mm in the washing room, 75-100 mm in the dressing room and relaxation room, and 200 mm in the steam room. Why - see below.

Finish floor

So why are the floor joists in the bathhouse different? First of all, because it is possible to apply the usual floor insulation scheme (see figure on the right) in a bathhouse only for the dressing room and rest room. In the steam room and washing room it is necessary to spill on the floor hot water; In principle, only extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is capable of maintaining its qualities and not becoming a source of rot in such conditions from insulation materials, but it, like other types of foam plastic, is seriously discredited according to recent studies.

Not long ago, experiments were completed in several countries (Holland, Canada, Russia, etc.), at the beginning of which foam plastic slabs different types were placed on walls made of various building materials and walled up under plaster of different compositions. After opening it 10 years later, it turned out that from the original foam thickness of 80-100 mm, there was... 17-23 mm left!

As it turned out during the analysis, foam plastics are destroyed into liquid styrene, which evaporates under the influence of subtle traces of chemically active volatile organics in the air, down to the components of the aroma of flowers and the smell of pine forests. Industrial emissions and gasoline fumes are, of course, even worse. Speed chemical reactions and vapor diffusion into solids depend on temperature according to power laws, so foam insulation in a bathhouse is unlikely to last 10 years even under concrete, which seems to be something many users have already encountered.

It follows that for insulating the floor in a washing and steam bath there is only one method left: air-to-air, like a gas view in bell-type stoves. Its essence is that a cushion of cold dense gases/air holds warm ones on top, but to do this it is necessary to exclude convection by limiting the contact area of ​​the cold and warm layers. The stronger the effect, the greater the temperature difference and, consequently, the density of the cold and warm layers.

The design of the floor with cells made of lags intersecting with beams and cracks in the rough and finished floors prevents convection, keeping warm air above the floor. Raising the floor of the steam room above the washing room by 150 mm is necessary due to the temperature difference in them. In a steam room, the less heated air cushion in the floor is more stable and warmer than in a washing room. Leaking there from below, it feeds the cooled air in the floor of the washing room: there it, finally cooling down, goes into the underground. The temperature difference at the top and bottom of the washing room is much less; convection through the floor can go through narrow cracks and the room will quickly become cold.

As for the elevation of the floors of the dressing room and rest room, according to sanitary standards it should be from 3 cm. This value was obtained from the statistics of pipeline accidents in bathrooms - per 1 sq. m of floor in such cases, up to 25 liters of water are poured out. A layer of 3 cm per 1 square. m gives 30 l, i.e. with a margin so that it does not flow into the living rooms. For a bathhouse, this calculation is not valid, but the norm is the norm, and there will be no harm from an elevation of more than 3 cm. Finally, the outflow of “cold” (which is warm for other rooms) air cushion from the floor of the steam room it will also heat the floors of the dressing room with the relaxation room.

Clean floor - washing

As you can see, the critical point of insulating the bathhouse floor is the washing room floor. If you make it, as is often advised, inclined with point surface drainage, this will not best option:

• Non-leakage wooden floors does not happen, and stagnation of water in the gaps between the boards contributes to the emergence of pockets of rot and mold.
• The possibility of air-to-air insulation of the floor is excluded, because the air above and below the flooring is physically separated.
• The risk of injury to the floor increases because it is at least a little inclined and wet all the time.

The floor of a washing room with a dispersed drain and a catcher in the underground, pos. 1 in Fig. In addition, this design makes it possible to additionally insulate the subfloor with a layer of expanded clay under concrete screed. It is best if the catcher covers the entire area of ​​the bathhouse. If not, it should extend under the steam room, and its wings should extend under the dressing room and rest room by at least 60 cm.

The slotted floor in the washing room is made of larch or oak boards with a rounded edge, pos. 2. Slots at pos. 3 shows the maximum permissible width so that you can catch a small object that has fallen into the underground with your fingers, a hook or tweezers/platypuses; In general, gaps of 0.5-1 cm are enough for the floor in the washing room to work as it should.

Clean floor - steam room

It’s easier in a steam room with a finished floor - here there is a burst of drainage only if they are poured out of a gang, and the underground heats up well. Therefore, the floor of the steam room can be laid from the same boards as in the washing room, laid end to end.

Walls

If, when laying floors in a bathhouse, one had to think more about their own functionality, then on the walls one cannot ignore the structural features of the bathhouse and the decorative qualities of the finishing. First of all, you need to decide which wood finishing is better: moldings made of natural wood or MDF, which is more resistant, but does not exude useful substances (for example, phytoncides). In any case, at the same stage the type of insulating material is determined. The choice depends on the properties of the material of the bath structure - timber / galvanized logs, frame / foam blocks, brick / aerated concrete blocks. The structure of a bathhouse made of monolithic foam concrete has the same properties as those made of foam blocks.

Insulation

It is usually recommended to insulate a bathhouse with mineral wool, as well as living quarters, which is not the best choice: mineral wool is hygroscopic, when wet it loses its insulating qualities and irreversibly cakes. Based on its range of properties, the best insulating material for a bathhouse should be considered cellulose insulation – ecowool. Much has been written about its merits; For a bathhouse, the main thing is that ecowool practically does not lose its insulating qualities after 72 hours of exposure to an atmosphere with 100% humidity. In addition, ecowool is blown into cavities without much difficulty using a manual blowing machine, which can be rented, see fig.

Insulation with ecowool is more expensive than with mineral wool, by about 25%. But let’s take into account that the area of ​​the insulated surface decreases squarely as the size of the building decreases. If, for example, when insulating a house of 100 square meters. m ecowool overconsumption Money comes out to 100 thousand rubles, then for a bathhouse of 20 square meters. m (4x5 m), its absolute value will decrease by 25 times and amount to 4 thousand rubles, which will not be visible in the estimate for the bathhouse.

In general, ecowool was purposely created for insulating baths, but in the future we will still focus on the more popular mineral wool. Just keep in mind that for ecowool, foil vapor barrier can almost always be replaced with glassine or kraft paper, and where this is not possible, it will be specifically indicated.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

They are often confused or considered the same material, so let’s clarify: foam concrete absorbs vapor and liquid water a lot and quickly, but just as easily gives off moisture. Aerated concrete is vapor permeable almost like wood. It draws liquid water into itself slowly and in a smaller volume, but, once damp, it dries no better than a brick.

Board and lining

You can use a clean-edged board to decorate the walls of a bathhouse in any way you like, but you won’t be able to do without cracks in them. Washing and steam room walls can only be covered with simple tongue-and-groove boards standing up: the shelves and tongue-and-groove pockets of horizontally sewn boards will become moisture catchers and sources of damage to the wood.

When covering walls in a bathhouse with clapboard, it is not so much the material that matters as the profile of the board. For cladding with horizontal belts, the Standard profile is more suitable, at the top in Fig. on the right or Softline (with rounded chamfers) without a ventilation groove on the back side: ventilation of the sheathing will be ensured by the vertical arrangement of the sheathing slats, see below. For standing cladding along a horizontal sheathing, you need profiles with a wide ventilation groove in the center; crossing lathing in a bathhouse is unsuitable, because Ventilation of the casing will be poor in any case. Also unsuitable are profiles with narrow ventilation slots, shown below in the figure: they are intended for installation without lathing on flat walls in dry rooms.

How bathhouse walls breathe and get wet

Saunas made of rounded logs and timber, compared to the original Russian ones, breathe more often and deeper, because... in both cases, the top dense layer of wood is cut off and its pores are open over the entire surface of the material. Baths made of foam concrete/foam blocks and frame ones breathe the same way, but they become damp faster and lose their heat-insulating properties; dry also quickly. Compared to humans, they are easily out of breath and catch colds, but recover easily. A bathhouse made of gas blocks breathes easily and deeply, but if you have already caught a cold, i.e. damp, sick (dries) for a long time and severely. A brick bathhouse breathes shallowly and heavily, and suffers just like an aerated concrete bathhouse.

Wood species

Internal lining made of oak or beech can deepen and slow down the breathing of a bathhouse; to a lesser extent - from ash and maple. To make it faster and lighter - from linden, alder, aspen; finishing the steam room with wood of these species will be the best. Birch and hornbeam are easily affected by fungi and pests, just like a wet nut. Of the conifers, seasoned pine after “burning” as described above is suitable for a very average bathhouse. Other rocks advertised for finishing baths have not yet been properly tested for the leakage of substances that are not beneficial to health, with one exception.

This exception is Cryptomeria japonica; it goes on sale under the name koto or kote. The Japanese use koto to make their baths, fonts and other washing accessories. The cryptomeria finish in itself can give the bathhouse smooth, deep breathing and a healthy spirit. Cryptomeria is resistant to diseases and pests, grows quite quickly, and renews well. Therefore, its technical culture has already spread quite widely, and lining made from cryptomeria is cheaper than linden. Its color is light, slightly darker than that of maple; fine texture. In addition to the steam room, koto wood is suitable for finishing a wash room. Keep in mind.

Sheathing with boards/linings

Schemes for covering bathhouse walls with wood molded materials are given on the left in Fig. Let’s immediately pay attention to the sidebar: you can’t line the walls of a bathhouse with a herringbone pattern, as rot will come from the pockets under the paneling. At pos. 1 – diagram of the internal lining of the walls of a bathhouse made of timber, rounded logs and foam blocks. The thermal insulation properties of such a bathhouse are good, the vapor permeability of the walls is close to optimal, so a foil vapor barrier under the casing is sufficient to protect the building from condensation soaking during the cooling of the bathhouse. MDF lining is suitable for cladding. The foam block bath will additionally need to be protected from the outside from getting wet without losing vapor permeability, see at the end. The lining for its lining requires wood, which makes the bath’s breathing heavier, see above. Vapor barrier is necessary for any insulation material.

At pos. 2 – diagram of the internal lining of a bathhouse made of other materials, including gas blocks. Their thermal insulation qualities are high, but this material must be protected in every possible way from liquid moisture getting on the wall, even for a short time. For this purpose, finishing washing bath made of aerated blocks necessarily includes in its structure waterproofing made of a microperforated membrane (roofing film): membrane waterproofing traps the smallest droplets of condensate, but allows water vapor to pass through, which then migrates through the wall to the outside. This will, of course, make the gas-block bathhouse rather difficult to breathe.

Bathhouse made of timber natural humidity(the cheapest) when erecting a log house, it must be caulked into the guy wire, see fig. on right. In a bathhouse made of bricks and foam blocks, the lathing under the cladding is mounted on bare, leveled walls, pos. 3 in Fig. higher. Then they install/spray insulation and apply a metalized vapor barrier - foil insulation, etc., encircling it around the sheathing slats. Place the sheathing slats on top of the insulation, as in pos. 6 – a serious mistake: through their fasteners, moisture will penetrate into the insulation and the wall; The fasteners for the sheathing and insulation clamping strips are small, they do not pierce through the sheathing, see also below.

The overlap of the insulation strips (tapes) is 15-20 cm; The joints are taped with special tape. The upper tape should overlap the lower one to drain possible condensation. If the roof of the bathhouse is insulated, then the likelihood of condensation at the top along the contour of the wall is higher than on the ceiling. In this case, before rolling out the last tape of wall insulation, the ceiling is insulated (item 6), and the last tape overlaps both the previous wall and the ceiling insulation.

The actual lining of the walls of the bathhouse has no significant features, except for one thing: finishing the steam room in the bathhouse with clapboard should be done only and only with standard fastenings - gluers, see fig. Temperature jumps in a steam room can reach 80 degrees in the Moscow region and more than 100 degrees in Siberia; thermal deformations will also be of a corresponding magnitude. Any simplifications and reductions in cost that are acceptable in living rooms, such as small nails driven obliquely into the groove of a tongue and groove, in a steam room will soon lead to warping of the sheathing, damage to the insulation and soaking of the walls.

Upper vents

Ventilation vents under the ceiling of the bathhouse - upper vents - are necessary, as mentioned above, to keep the temperature and humidity of the unheated bathhouse equal to the outside ones and so that steam can be quickly released in emergency cases. But make them simple ventilation windows You can’t use blind hatch covers: during thermal bath procedures, condensation may fall into the ventilation passage, which will immediately go into the wall and/or insulation. Therefore, the top vents in the bathhouse are made with inserts made of wall material (see figure on the right) or, say, foam plastic, in this case it is quite applicable.

Stove and chimney

The simplest way to install metal sauna stove shown in pos. 1 Fig., but this is far from optimal: there is no appearance, and the risk of injury and fire does not decrease, because the fence is flammable and permeable. A solid brick fence (item 2) is more reliable, but takes up more usable space, an excess of which is not observed in homemade bathhouses. Brick oven, pos. 3, in addition, requires laying a foundation for it and long technical breaks for its shrinkage and the structure of the furnace. It would probably be best to install a sauna stove in a niche lined with artificial stone(item 4) or porcelain stoneware; both are firmly glued to the wood using appropriate mounting adhesives.

Currently, there is a wide range of chimneys for stoves based on sandwich pipes on sale. They look neat, inset at the top left in the figure:

But, firstly, they do not get rid of metalworking and welding and construction work, as can be seen from the diagram in the center in Fig; There are also plenty of other difficulties and subtleties when installing a sandwich chimney (see video).

Video: installation of a sandwich chimney

Secondly, many happy owners of “cool” chimneys have experienced cases like the one whose consequences are shown in the inset at the top right. Manufacturers are not deceiving consumers here, but the latter, choosing cheaper ones, unknowingly connect to sauna stoves sandwich chimneys for fireplaces, which are absolutely unsuitable for sauna conditions. And for a sandwich chimney that is more or less suitable for a sauna or heating and cooking stove, you need to pay at least 30 thousand rubles.

Meanwhile, there is a way to make a simple and safe chimney for a sauna stove with your own hands, spending no more effort than installing a branded sandwich, and many times less money. This is a sleeve of ordinary steel chimney. How it is produced is shown in pos. 1 Fig., and what it looks like in real life - in pos. 2 and 3. If the pipe under the bottom of the sleeve is red-hot, the temperature of the attachment points of the brick cutting base plate at +60 in the room will not exceed the permissible for wood +95. Insulation of the base plate from below is necessary so that during a weak firebox or at the beginning of heating a cold room, soot deposition in the chimney does not increase and/or acidic condensation does not fall out.

Ceiling

The task of the bathhouse ceiling, as stated above, is quite simple: it must prevent heat loss through itself, so that convection in both the heated and cold bath occurred without reaching the melancholy dew in the rooms. Therefore, the ceiling of the bathhouse is made of the usual hemming from the same board or lining as the walls, according to standard scheme, shown with dimensions on the left in Fig. An option for 2-stage ceiling insulation for a bathhouse with a warm attic, habitable attic or home bathhouse is given on the right there.

Partitions and more

In all respects, it is advisable to install light frame partitions on any bathhouse on a clean floor. Their heat and sound insulation can be foam plastic, because... This design is completely repairable. There is only one limitation: the cladding is made of the same materials as the walls; plywood, fiberboard, and gypsum board, even if they are moisture resistant, are unsuitable; they are not for bath conditions.

The second thing that has more to do with the decoration of the bathhouse than with its equipment and furniture is the shelves. Diagrams and dimensions of bath shelves for steam rooms of different sizes and layouts are given in the figure:

As for their design, the simplest thing would be a set of ordinary lattice drains made of deciduous wood suitable for a bath (see above).

Such loungers are laid on wooden runners, installed on the walls in the order of their covering, see fig. on right. This solution makes it possible to configure the shelves as needed or completely remove them for cleaning, sanitizing or repairs.

About bath lighting

According to safety regulations, the entire bathhouse is classified as a particularly dangerous premises in terms of the degree of electric shock and fire hazard. In such conditions, a general power supply of 12 V and waterproof lamps are acceptable. Everything would be fine, but wiring for the same power turns out to be high-current, unreliable and unsafe in a humid, heated environment, and the light bulbs quickly burn out. Therefore, recently, expensive but completely safe light guide illuminators are increasingly being used to illuminate washing rooms and steam rooms. In them, the projector lamp illuminates a bundle of light guides, the branches of which are distributed along the points where the illuminators are located. Among other things, light guide lighting in the bath allows you to obtain beautiful lighting effects, see fig.:

From the reverse

Well, it turns out that the decoration of the bath largely determines the pleasure and benefits of it? Why not, in this case, think of a bathhouse for yourself, following the finishing outwards? That's right, many bathhouse designers do just that. Let’s try to think of a small bathhouse for ourselves that, with a minimum of justifiable costs for it, will be as pleasant and beneficial as possible. The result is:

• The foundation is a flat strip foundation or a columnar foundation with a plinth. With the dimensions of the building in plan up to 6x6 m, the forces of frost heaving on ordinary soils will practically not tilt the structure; the bathhouse will simply rise and fall slightly throughout the year.
• On weak, subsiding and highly heaving soils - strip foundation normal depth.
• The structure of the bathhouse is foam blocks made of ordinary masonry cement-sand mortar.
• Exterior finishing and thermal insulation – ventilated facade made of face brick dry molding; half-brick masonry, connections to the load-bearing wall - steel anchors with deformation bending seam to seam.
• The floor is made of larch planks with joists on larch beams.
• The runoff from the washing room and steam room disperses through the cracked floor into a concrete catcher.
• The drainage pit is located at a distance from the building.
• Insulation - ecowool.
• Finishing the washing room and steam room is the simplest with standing boards.
• Wood for finishing the steam room - linden, cryptomeria, alder, aspen, poplar.
• Wood for finishing the washing room - larch, cryptomeria, pine, oak, ash, maple.
• Finishing the dressing room and rest room - according to your means and desires.
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Finishing– the final stage of construction. It is incorrect to include insulation work in it. When it comes to tiling floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define the terms if we want mutual understanding.

This article will focus mainly on interior decoration steam rooms, but the finishing will also be partially affected washing If the site has thematic articles that cover a particular issue on the subject, read it, you’ll probably find it there helpful information, and for your convenience we have provided links.

Steam room design

If we are talking about finishing options for finishing a steam room in a bathhouse, then it would be worthwhile to somehow classify them and talk about them from different points of view. That is, we can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or we can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.

Floor

In a paired room, the floor comes in three versions:

• tree;
• tile;
• concrete.

The latter option is generally not intended for walking on it with bare feet, but people also walk on this floor in rubber slippers or on ladders. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. Wooden floor can be torrential or dry, You can read about the features of both options.

We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.

poured wood floor- These are boards fixed to joists without joining. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.

Dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue and groove.

Both floors can be painted after completion of installation work either acrylic varnish, or impregnation for sauna floors. This will make the floorboards water-repellent and the floor itself more durable.

Tile is also fully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as is the case with the pouring option, and a dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still wood, and it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).

IMPORTANT! The main argument against tile floors is that they can cause you to slip. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.

Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look as if the finishing of the steam room in the bathhouse was left halfway. To give it some finality, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.

How to decorate the walls and ceiling

It's not in vain that we united walls and ceiling into the same category - they are usually made from the same material.

If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, tradition, secondly, useful, thirdly, pleasant and beautiful.

But in general, the design of a steam room in a bathhouse, if we talk about walls and ceilings, comes down to choice linings. True, some leave the walls made of timber or logs unsealed, but this is only if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.

But There are a lot of types of lining, so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.

ATTENTION! To begin with, let us clarify that imitation timber and blockhouse (imitation log house) are also types of lining. After all, this word essentially means just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.

euro and non-euro

First of all, it varies tongue-and-groove connection design. Based on the differences between them, such types of linings as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, and “American” are built.

Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.

It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on the back side of the lamella. They were not included in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and the eurolining has them.

ADVICE! For those who want to creatively approach the interior decoration of a steam room in a bathhouse, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with or without chamfer and one of the carved profiles.

You can read more about the types of lining and cladding methods in this.

Of course, there is also finishing around the stove in the steam room of the bathhouse, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.

Doors and windows

For doors and windows, the most important thing concerns not so much the design as the right choice wood

After all, you can’t put a plastic door in a steam room, unless glass, which are made for a sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door needed for ventilation of the sauna). But if you file the frame, you can install a glass door in a Russian bathhouse. And you won't have problems closing the doors.

But if the door is still made of wood, then high humidity will influence her primarily change in wood volume, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.

To avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and some people will prefer linden lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.

Finishing inside the steam room

Since buildings are made of different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to decorate the steam room in the bathhouse, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of construction of the insulating pie, let alone finishing Moreover, it does not depend on what the walls of your bathhouse are built from.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bathhouse made of timber or logs

timber or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the cladding, unless there is arctic cold in your area, that is, if the thickness of the log or beam is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the owner's main concern will be insulation of joints between logs or beams, them sealing(which we’ll talk about separately). In addition, finishing work includes protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identifying decorative properties wood - both are done using impregnation

BUT! In the steam room, protective measures are limited to antiseptic on lower crowns and impregnation for walls in general, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful “moire” pattern, which can be made more visible with the help of varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes that are acceptable for processing steam rooms.

Finishing with clapboard in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

The finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse built from the materials listed in the title will in the vast majority of cases be reduced to cladding clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior “wooden”. In addition, lining is a convenient and affordable material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to his tastes.

Baths not built from wood are accepted insulate. In this article we will not describe the thermal insulation pie - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, let's spoil it: ways thermal insulation finishing steam rooms in a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And the lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to attach it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through a groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of fastening to staples or nails using a pneumatic gun through clamps. As an option, you can attach it to self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Clippers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. A nice and convenient addition.

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining using clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical And horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice should go in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella with this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stress inside the wood. In the future it may crack.

In the same time horizontal mount makes the lamellas moisturized more evenly. The main thing is not to forget when fastening that the groove should be on top, and the tenon should enter it from below. Then water will not flow into the lock.

In addition to the above, the described types of lining installation also have this feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear higher and the horizontal one lower.

Options for washing and steam rooms: materials

Let's briefly look at the materials suitable for finishing bath sinks and steam rooms.

Wood

In the photo: finishing the steam room of a bathhouse with wood (lining)

For flooring, you can use more resistant species, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.

However, it is worth saying that linden trees And aspen low resistance to rotting and biocontamination (for example, fungi). Therefore, we still recommend additionally protecting surfaces made of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.

IN car wash there is no point in using wood unless it is design solution. In this case, it is worth recommending conifers– they are more resistant to water.

Stone

An option for decorating a steam room in a bathhouse is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).

What types of stone are best suited for finishing walls in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no restrictions here th - the main thing is that it is not rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as table salt in a pot of soup, but its composition is the same as salt in a salt shaker.

The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of withstanding such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to cover the stove with the same stone. The temperatures there are somewhat different. And it’s worth focusing at least on those stones in which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, soapstone .

As an option, you can decorate part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out to be quite a nice decor. As you can see, even street cobblestones can come in handy.

In the photo: interior decoration of the steam room with stones around the stove

IN car wash You can use stone, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with finished ceramic tiles.

Tile

The tiles in the steam room are used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, Metlakhskaya In general, it can be recommended for wet rooms. But it is better not to consider all varieties of smooth glazed tiles as a covering for the floor of a steam room.

IN washing It is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for the walls... here, in general, you can see more clearly how sober visitors will wash in your washroom. If not particularly so, then give up smooth tiles there too, eliminating unnecessary opportunities for injury.

In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bathhouse with tiles

Sealant

Special mention should be made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in a bathhouse.

Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it log sauna and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if it is used as heat insulator.

In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood that have a certain elasticity, because wood tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which wood sealants can withstand steam room temperatures well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).

We came across a report from one bathhouse owner in which he praised the wood sealant Perma-Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate for sealing cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.

As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.

Finishing around the stove

The space around the stove needs special finishing for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.

Fireproof board for finishing walls when installing a sauna stove

Therefore, thermal insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, mineralite or superizol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). A stainless steel sheet can be attached to reflect heat.

Tiles near the stove

If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, from which the seller will select the right one for you.

Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it’s worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.

And one more thing - you need to take into account the fact that in the baths on personal plot In winter, if not used for a long time, the temperature can be below zero.

Some types of tiles are not intended for sudden changes in temperature when heating a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.

Photo

Finishing the steam room of the bath

Interior decoration of the steam room and washing room together

Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside

Antique finishing of baths and steam rooms

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We have many other interesting and informative materials devoted to a variety of issues related to the bathhouse. We recommend using it to search for material of interest.

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It's creative and interesting. As a rule, up to half of the construction budget can be spent on the interior arrangement of premises, which is not surprising. A wonderful relaxation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget finishing options.

Work order

The baths are built in different types, one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper recreation rooms, as additional equipment they install a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider a standard version of a bathhouse with three functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room or rest room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room; this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The procedure for finishing activities in a wooden or other bathhouse is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm for finishing work in the bathhouse:

• floor arrangement;
• wall covering;
• installation of the ceiling;
• installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of the premises, will create a paradise for relaxation of soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially not difficult. IN wooden bath logs are installed from timber 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm, boards, edged or tongue-and-groove, are laid on them. Hardwood is preferable among materials, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. Especially it concerns washing department where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150–200 mm to retain heat.

The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and primer to prevent their swelling and the formation of fungal colonies.

Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room; this is reasonable for a brick bathhouse. IN wooden building the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Treatment with primers from Tikkuril, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial opportunities. You can use tiles of various types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection against moisture, does not allow the inside of the panel to - HDF board- swell, does not deform, lasts for 20 years. You can use a modern one that has recently appeared on the market finishing materials liquid linoleum and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a slight slope and drainage.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made from the following types of trees:

1. Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and temperature changes, cedar is most preferable for the walls of a steam room; its wood, when heated, releases substances that are healing for the human body, pleasant aromas taiga The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
3. Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures and does not lose original color and appearance for 20–25 years, this is a real godsend for a steam room; essential linden oils heal bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade, decorating and slightly romanticizing the space of the steam room;
4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and relaxation rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of design. Walls trimmed with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
5. Aspen. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on the construction market; it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled, lined with clapboard coniferous species tree. You can use tiles for tiling walls. moisture resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

Tiles for a washing room are especially relevant in a brick building; they do not collapse under the influence of moisture, are easy to maintain, and last a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. For brick walls it's even good decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing of the ceilings is similar to the finishing of the walls. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can cover the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, and aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of a steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but it is worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of ​​the steam room is small.

A layer of foil material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. You should not use materials based on foamed propylene foam or polyurethane foam. The optimal insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is the key to safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Decoration of premises

The aesthetics and comfort of the space of bath rooms is formed not only by finishing materials. You will need good furniture:

• shelves in the steam room;
• font in the washing room;
• sofa, table for the rest room.

Also needed beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort that ensures the functionality of the space is correct lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of proper lighting in all rooms of the bathhouse, which creates a mood that promotes relaxation and a pleasant pastime.

The bathhouse can be turned into perfect place for relaxation, both for the whole family and for many friends and acquaintances, the main thing is to pay due attention to the smallest nuances when arranging it. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make the interior decoration of a steam room with your own hands, having studied the theoretical part and the sequence of work.

Selection of materials for arranging a Russian bath

As a rule, the traditional material for finishing a steam room is wood. If you plan to save some money, then it is better to pay attention to pine; however, you should not purchase the cheapest variety of this material, since during the operation of the steam room, low-quality pine will release an excessive amount of resin, which is not very good for visitors.

It is best to pay attention to the linden tree. This wood does not get very hot, which makes visiting the sauna more comfortable. In addition, such material is not afraid of high temperatures, so it does not lose its external properties for quite a long time.

The finishing of a steam room in a bathhouse can also be done with wood from birch, poplar and other durable species. Larch is able to dry well, which helps create the most comfortable microclimate in the steam room. You need to figure out how to make a steam room correctly in order to avoid obvious mistakes.

It is considered absolutely unacceptable to use low-quality materials for finishing the steam room. wood boards. You need to choose between wooden lining and solid wood. Also, you should not purchase chipboard, MDF and other similar materials, since they are toxic and fire hazardous, in addition, they are afraid of moisture, that is, when interacting with it, such materials soon lose their external qualities.

As for other nuances, in this case you need to build on your preferences and budget.

Heating and ventilation systems

The core of the Russian bath is the heater stove. The best materials For the construction of such a furnace, the following are considered: natural stone and refractory brick, which can also be used simultaneously.

Brick is ideal in that it is able to effectively accumulate heat, while stones make it possible to create the right steam. A properly designed stove, together with high-quality insulation materials, can retain heat for up to 15 hours.

The finishing of the steam room in the bathhouse must be associated with the installation high-quality ventilation. As a rule, natural ventilation is never enough for normal air circulation. There are many ventilation systems, each of which is selected individually, depending on operating conditions and other structural features of the bathhouse.

Finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands involves installing a drain hole designed to drain water. This will prevent excess moisture from accumulating, which means that mold will not form in the steam room and other unpleasant phenomena will not occur.

Floor finishing

To install the floor, edged or tongue-and-groove boards are used, and the process itself consists of several successive steps.

First, carefully level the base and get rid of all debris.

At the next stage, 25x25 cm brick columns are laid on the base, which will serve as support for the logs. The height of the posts is determined by the height of the floor so that it is at least 15 cm higher than the sink cover.

Now the logs are laid and attached to the posts. The logs, as a rule, are taken with a cross-section of 25x25 cm, and the pitch between them should be about 100 cm.

Next, the boards are laid, starting from the far corner relative to the entrance to the room. Galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, screwing them in so that the caps are recessed into the wood a few millimeters.

When laying the floor, a slight slope of 10 mm per meter of base should be maintained. In addition, the floor design must include a drain sufficient for timely drainage of water.

Wall finishing works

It is best to cover a steam room in a bathhouse with wooden clapboard. First, the lining must be brought into the bathhouse and left there for several days so that the material has time to acclimatize (more details: " "). During the work process, all material will need to be coated with an antiseptic composition.

On initial stage the frame is assembled. The material is selected based on the calculated load level. If you plan to attach shelves to the walls, then it is better to make the frame from timber, otherwise you can get by with simple slats.

When deciding on the type of fastening of the frame elements, take into account how the lining will be attached later. In any case the direction frame beams and the slats should be perpendicular to the direction of the lining.

First, the first and last slats are attached to the wall using self-tapping screws. The pitch of these guides must correspond to the width of the insulating boards.

At the next stage, they begin laying the vapor barrier layer. To secure individual sheets of material, it is best to use a construction stapler.

After all the walls are covered, you can move on to finishing the ceiling. It is highly undesirable to treat walls with varnishes or paints.

Installation work on ceiling finishing

After covering the entire surface of the ceiling, you can begin installing the benches.

Installation of benches in the bathhouse

The appearance and size of the benches in the steam room can be anything, it all depends only on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

The main thing is that the material for the steam room in the bathhouse in this case is correctly selected. When selecting material, it is worth considering that future benches are installed in a steam room, which is a room with constant excessive humidity and high temperature.

The wood must be free of knots, resins, and not cause allergies. Often, when building shops, poplar, oak, aspen or linden are chosen.

These types of wood have a number of undeniable advantages:

• Resins and other harmful elements do not protrude from them during the heating process;
• quick drying;
• have nice smell;
• do not heat up to temperatures that can burn the skin;
• have a pleasant appearance;
• pleasant to the tactile sensation.

It’s nice when the shelves in the steam room have rounded ends - it makes them look more beautiful. It is preferable to install them in two or three floors against a wall located on the opposite side to the heater. Although, everyone has the right to adjust the project based on their preferences.

It is worth noting that the shelves should be located at a sufficient distance from the stove so that people do not accidentally get burned from contact with the unit. You need to know how to make shelves in a bathhouse correctly from a safety point of view. If as finishing coating plaster was used, or simply masonry was left, the distance to the shelves should not be less than 50 cm.

The distance between the ceiling of the bathhouse and the top shelf should also be maintained - it should be between 1 and 1.2 meters.

Organization of lighting in the steam room

To properly decorate the steam room, you need to properly think through the lighting. In this case, it is worth relying on the characteristics of the microclimate of the bathhouse - high temperature and humidity. The lamps in it should be installed clearly in the corners or near the ceiling, because in such places the air is heated the least, and the light, based on this location, will be as pleasant as possible for the eyes.

To obtain the softest and most diffused light, it is better to use fiber optic lamps. In addition, unlike conventional lamps, they are among the safest devices that can be used in such extreme conditions.

No matter what type of lamp you choose, they should be equipped with heat-resistant shades. To slightly decorate the lampshades, they can be hidden behind beautiful wooden grilles.

As a result, the bathhouse will only need to be slightly equipped with additional accessories, such as ladles, buckets, brooms, and so on, after which the steam room can be put into operation.

From the above we can conclude that arranging a bathhouse with your own hands is not something mega complicated. Yes, this is labor-intensive work that requires full dedication and responsibility from the performer, however, guided by all the proposed instructions and rules, you can create a truly attractive and, moreover, functional interior.

Have you tried and built a beautiful steam room hut? Now we need to finish the inside of the bathhouse, which requires no less attention than exterior work. High humidity and elevated temperatures place special demands on materials, because not all of them are able to withstand difficult operating conditions. The choice of cladding determines how long the structure will last and how comfortable the procedures will be. Different rooms in the bathhouse require their own approach to finishing, but the most difficult is finishing the steam room in the bathhouse.

Design of a steam room in a bathhouse Source et.aviarydecor.com

What material is suitable for a steam room?

There are a lot of finishing materials for interior work. To make it easier for you to choose what kind of finishing the steam room in the bathhouse will have, photos and paintings ready-made solutions Every designer has one. It is worth remembering that even if you made your own choice, it is better to coordinate it with a specialist, because not all materials are suitable for installation inside the hottest room.

Taking into account the specific operating conditions, the following requirements are imposed on the finishing:

moisture resistance;

heat resistance;

durability;

hygiene;

environmental friendliness.

Important! For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, you should choose natural materials.

When the temperature rises, the plastic becomes deformed and begins to release bad smell, and ordinary tiles crack after heating. Therefore, the use of such finishing is unacceptable in the steam room.

The best option is wood. The finishing structure depends on financial capabilities. For example, lining is cheaper than timber; it is chosen if it is necessary to meet a certain budget. Basically, bathhouse owners prefer deciduous wood. Below is an example of what the interior decoration of a bathhouse might look like, a photo of the classic version.

High-quality wood for interior decoration of a bathhouse Source stroy-block.com.ua

There is an opinion that you should not sheathe the inside with steamed coniferous wood, since it releases resin when the temperature rises. But this statement is controversial, because resin has a beneficial effect on health, cleanses the respiratory tract, and strengthens the heart.

Whether or not to sheathe the interior with coniferous wood is up to you - maybe someone in your household doesn’t like the smell of pine needles or vice versa...

If lining was chosen for cladding the bathhouse, then it should be High Quality. Particular attention must be paid to the external processing of the material - there should be no chips, knots, or cracks on its surface. The lining should not deform: swell when heated or dry out at normal temperatures.

If wood is not suitable for you as a material for interior decoration of a steam room for some reason, you can give preference to heat-resistant tiles; they have proven themselves well under significant temperature changes.

Video description

How to insulate the ceiling and decorate the walls in a bathhouse is shown in the video:

Ceiling protection

Before finishing, you should protect the ceiling from hot steam. To do this, use aluminum foil or a construction membrane.

Important! Do not use foil with mineral wool or polypropylene foam glued on it. When heated, these materials release toxic substances.

Protecting the ceiling in the bathhouse with aluminum foil Source ko.aviarydecor.com

Using lining - rational or not

Definitely yes! Lining made from linden, aspen, cedar, and abashi has become popular due to its properties. It tolerates temperature changes well, high humidity, is aesthetically pleasing, and does not absorb moisture. Cladding made of clapboard has low thermal conductivity - it does not heat up, but transfers heat to the air.

Bath lining is not covered with varnish, antiseptic, or paint; it is used in its natural form.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer the service of building a bathhouse. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Preparing the walls for finishing

When starting to finish the walls, they solve the issue of insulation and waterproofing. Without such measures, the bathhouse will not last long, and healing procedures will be reduced to simple hygienic ones. For insulation, the walls are covered with mineral or basalt wool. The second one is more resistant to high temperatures, so it lasts longer.

Insulation of walls in a steam room with mineral wool Source hvylya.net

Experts consider cork to be the best thermal insulator for bathhouse walls. This agglomerate does not burn, does not rot, and is resistant to fungi and mold.

Lathing - to do or not to do

Craftsmen prefer to install the sheathing and attach the interior trim to it. The popular base size is 50x50, less often they make 70x70. The pitch is not standard and varies depending on the size of the blocks being strengthened.

The sheathing is made of wood, less often of metal. Considering the operating conditions, the metal must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds. The lining or logs are secured with self-tapping screws and nails. They must be copper or brass. The installation of the base is done perpendicular to the sheathing.

Lathing walls in the steam room under the lining Source: seattlehelpers.org

Stages of clapboard finishing

Along the perimeter of the wall and ceiling fix the timber. Fastenings should be every 80–100 cm.

Cut pieces of insulation wool placed between the tree without compacting.

Above covered with a waterproofing agent. The joints are sealed aluminum tape, paying special attention to the corners.

Equip ventilation. To do this, fill the distance rail. It will provide a small gap (2–3 cm) through which air will be vented.

Do separate upholstery doors and windows.

Fastening the lining. You need to start from the corner, fixing each part vertically. This position will ensure free flow of water. If a horizontal arrangement of blocks is planned, make sure that the spikes are at the top. This will protect the lock from moisture.

Lining located in corners or near walls, cut to the right size . It is especially important to cut the corner block correctly. It is necessary to accurately calculate the angle of inclination so that the adjacent block is correctly fixed.

Insulating the furnace using a metal sheet Source interistroy.ru

metal– stainless steel or profiled iron is mounted on the wall behind the stove;

Red brick– placed between the wall and the fire;

tiles, resistant to high temperatures (kaolin);

mineralite– heat-resistant board made of cement and special components.

Video description

Watch the video for step-by-step installation of the lining in the steam room:

Making the floor in the steam room

Not only comfort, but also safety depends on the choice of raw materials for the floor. Moisture on smooth tiles or linoleum leads to falls and injuries. Installation of such materials will turn the floor into a skating rink. In addition, when heated, linoleum emits an unpleasant odor containing substances harmful to health.

The optimal choice of floor for a steam room is wood. It does not require a special coating, and with this design the room will be designed in the same style. It is worth noting that the wooden floor in the bathhouse is not made of oak. This wood becomes stronger when wet, but at the same time its surface begins to slip.

Concrete works well. A floor made of such material will be strong and durable. Tiles are laid on top of it, but the structure of the surface of such a coating is important. It should not be glossy; a pronounced relief is necessary. The floor is laid at a slight slope towards the water drainage.

Laying tiles on the floor in a bathhouse Source: seattlehelpers.org

The tiles are laid from the corner, placing crosses between the blocks, tapping with a mounting hammer. After 2-3 days, the seams between the tiles are rubbed down. Wooden grates are placed on top to prevent you from stepping on the cold floor and provide additional safety in case of possible slipping.

And now the shelves

A very important point is the shelves in the bathhouse. Since constant tactile contact is assumed with them, increased requirements are put forward for these elements:

they should not get very hot;

it's better if cool down slowly;

must be environmentally friendly;

don't slip and not be very rough;

don't have external damage;

easy to wash.

Again, wood is most suitable for this purpose. Carefully cleaned, without knots or nicks, it has served people in bathhouses and steam rooms for centuries. Shelves should not have sharp corners that could cause injury. They are not made continuous, leaving between wooden planks short distance.

Setting up a dressing room

The main function of the dressing room is to preserve heat. The temperature in the room is not high, so to decorate the walls in traditional style It is good to use coniferous trees.

Design of the waiting room and rest room “under the tree” Source koon.ru

The interior decoration of the bathhouse made of logs creates an atmosphere of antiquity and ancient fairy tales. A light aroma created by pine, fir, and spruce is appropriate here. The wood of these species resists fungus and mold well. It does not crack after drying and is durable. When heated, fir releases almost no resin.

If preferred hardwoods, experts advise finishing the room with birch. The lining can be laid out not only in even rows, but also in a pattern. It is important that the walls in the room are covered with the same type of wood.

Bathroom and washroom

These rooms don't have much high temperature, although the humidity is as high as in a steam room. The choice of finishes in the bathroom and washroom is more extensive. Fans of bath procedures recommend using natural raw materials for such rooms - wood or stone. Among wood, pine is the leader - it is an affordable material, however, it darkens with prolonged use.

An example of a washroom design Source profstroiplotnik.ru

Plastic is acceptable since there is no high temperature, and it tolerates humid air well. You can use regular tiles for the shower.

What is better to use to decorate a rest room?

The rest room should be beautiful and cozy, so the design of the room comes first. It is not necessary to install heat- and moisture-resistant materials here. The relaxation room should be:

easy to care for;

hygienic;

environmentally friendlym;

comfortable;

aesthetic.

Video description

For interesting ideas for interior decoration of a bathhouse, watch the video:

The decoration of the relaxation room in the bathhouse, in addition to traditional wood, can be done:

glass wallpaper;

porcelain stoneware;

natural stone ;

decorative plaster.

Important! The tree is not installed immediately after delivery to the construction site. It is brought into the room and allowed to stand for a couple of days so that it “gets comfortable” in the bathhouse. After this procedure, the wood is not subject to deformation when heated and high humidity.

Conclusion

Decorating the inside of a bathhouse requires effort and imagination. But, if you do everything correctly and entrust this work to professionals, the bathhouse will last a long time to restore strength and health. All you have to do is choose what kind of decoration the bathhouse will have inside: photos of steam rooms will help you find the best option for style and materials.